DEPARTURES TRAVEL
DEPARTURES TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 32 Ipša The theme of desirable products in equally desirable locations continues in the small village of Ipši, close to the Slovenian border. Perched on a hillside with spectacular views, this is another family concern that goes the extra yard. Bathed in sunshine and looking out over the olive groves, the grounds spotlight the beauty of Istria like few others. What began as 100 neglected olive trees in the family grove was transformed by Klaudio Ipša into an avant-garde olive-oil utopia, adding a thousand new trees in 1998. Within seven years, Ipša extra-virgin olive oil made it into the Flos Olei Guide, the industry’s leading arbiter. It was one of the first olive oils from Croatia to be included – but not the last, as Istria is steadily climbing in global appreciation. And just as Klaudio ignored advice when restarting olive-oil production, his son Ivan eschewed the old mantra “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”, when in 2010, he had the idea to plant vineyards and make wine. It’s a daring move that is now bearing fruit in a collection of six wines, and while they make some from more common grapes such as pinot grigio and merlot, the pick of the bunch is the Malvazija, fermented from the malvasia grape so prevalent in the region and aged in wood barrels after a process of extended maceration. A distinctly Croatian taste, there is a special magic to sampling it – and those renowned olive oils – on its home ground. ipsa-maslinovaulja.com From left: Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery; Roxanich founder Mladen Rožanić The Hotel Adriatic, Rovinj AROUND ISTRIA The picturesque fishing town of Rovinj is the perfect base from which to explore Istria, where Hotel Adriatic ( maistra.com), a 14- room, four-suite boutique hotel on the waterfront, features a typically superb seafood restaurant, try the salted sea bass. Further south in the region’s largest city, Pula, Grand Hotel Brioni Pula (radissonhotels. com) has reopened as part of the Radisson Collection. A 1970s icon, the 227-key hotel has been restored to its form glory after a £30m renovation. Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery (meneghetti. hr), a Relais & Châteaux property between Rovinj and Pula, has added a sculpture garden to its vineyards and olive groves. An initial exhibition, Lupines, features a series of sculptures by Belgian contemporary artist Arne Quinze. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF MENEGHETTI WINE HOTEL & WINERY, ŽIGA INTIHAR, © MAISTRA HOTEL ADRIATIC
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