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Departures United Kingdom Autumn 2023

DEPARTURES TRAVEL URBAN

DEPARTURES TRAVEL URBAN PRIMER 36 Right: Dani, the Four Seasons’ plantfilled rooftop brasserie; below: the seasonal delicacies at Playing Solo are served kaiseki-style Opened in 2020, The Four Seasons Hotel Madrid ( fourseasons.com) marked one of the first radical changes in the financial district’s cityscape and the group’s first hotel in Spain. Everything from the exquisitely restored 19th-century façade of the former Banco Español de Crédito to the cavernous two-tiered lobby, adorned with sculpted green-marble columns, a monumental staircase and a stained-glass roof, conjures Old World grandeur. Add to that deep comfort and contemporary touches, including 1,500 pieces of Spanish artwork scattered throughout the building. Highlights: the sprawling four-level wellness centre and 14m indoor pool with a skylight; for the best views in town and authentic Andalusian dishes, head to the rooftop brasserie, Dani, helmed by Michelin-starred chef Dani Garcia. Directly across the street is Madrid’s most recent stylish addition, the 139-room JW Marriott Madrid ( marriot.com), the first to open in Spain, housed in a former Belle Époque perfumery. There’s lots to admire, beginning with the elegant grey and cream lobby (whose slender wroughtiron columns are crowned with gold ornaments) and the traditional-meets-cutting-edge restaurant Qú created by the renowned Sandoval brothers. The young, friendly staff are uber-attentive, but the mood is relaxed. Along with the sleek minimalist rooms and holistic spa, the hotel is a celebration of the botanical spirit of the place, from olfactory scent-training workshops to choosing your preferred essence from tiny bottles – violet, rose, chocolate – to perfume your wardrobe. Set back on a side street from the busy Puerta del Sol square, The Madrid Edition ( editionhotels.com), opened last year, has injected some of Ian Schrager’s trademark bold minimalist modernity into Madrid’s boutique-hotel scene – it’s no wonder that the buzzy lobby cocktail bar is humming at every hour. Expect white-on-white rooms and a luxurious spa, plus two restaurants – Jerónimo, a groundfloor Mexican eatery with stunning François Champsaurdesigned interiors and the exotic rooftop, edged with lush greenery, where you dine on tasty Peruvian cuisine at Oroya, headed by chef Diego Muñoz. A highlight: nothing in the city quite tops the expansive outdoor pool and sweeping views from your sunbed. On Paseo de la Castellana, the busy main avenue of the upscale boutique-clogged Salamanca district, you might mistake this 1970s-built property surrounded by private gardens for a posh residential high-rise, but the moment you step inside the Rosewood Villa Magna ( rosewoodhotels. com) – reopened and prettily refurbished in 2021 – the convivial vibe and chic comfy interiors put you at ease. On the ground floor, well-heeled locals flock to Flor y Nata for tea, pastry or cocktails; come evening, dining options range from traditional specialities at Las Brasas Castellana to refined creative Northern Spanish flavours by three-Michelin star chef Jesús Sánchez at Amós. Other high points: the contemporary-style pared-down rooms and two dreamy penthouse suites, called “houses”, large enough to entertain an armada. FROM TOP: © FOUR SEASONS, JOSE SALTO

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