ljubljana-foodie-guide

vol. 1/2019

•

EAT LIKE A LOCAL

W IT H

A L O C A L •

E www.ljubljananjam.si

info@ljubljananjam.si

Ljubljana Foodie Guide

Text: Iva Gruden, Nina Purger, Pia Kaplan

Foreword: Iva Gruden

Proof reading: Tom Norman, Iva Gruden

Photography: Iva Gruden, Nina Purger, Pia Kaplan, Mankica Kranjec

Design: Edin Biščić – MONU

Issue date: May 2019

Place of issue: Ljubljana, Slovenia, EU

Form: E-booklet, PDF

Copyright: Iva Gruden, s.p.

Price: 6 eur / free for LjubljanaYum food tours customers

URL: http://www.ljubljananjam.si/slovenia-food-blog/ljubljana-foodie-guide vol. 1/2019

Ljubljana

foodie guide

Want to know how to talk and dine like a local foodie? Get to know more about

Ljubljana’s hidden (culinary) gems, what to do on a rainy day, which (craft) beer to

order, where to get best meat, specialty coffee, vegan delights, burgers and other

local secrets in our Ljubljana foodie guide - with all venues enriched with clickable

links for your convenience. Find useful info on activities in Ljubljana, important

information on Slovenia and exclusive insights on Ljubljana local life from amazing

interviews with Slovenian culinary connoisseurs and food journalists.

DOBER TEK IN NA ZDRAVJE!

EDITOR’S NOTE.............................................................................................04

LJUBLJANA DRINK & DINE SCENE BREAKDOWN...........................07

FOODIE CATEGORIES EXPLAINED.........................................................13

VENUES.............................................................................................................19

INTERVIEWS...................................................................................................35

USEFUL LINKS................................................................................................ 41

EDITOR’S NOTE

Dear fellow foodie,

As an avid traveller, I always liked leaving

Ljubljana, but also coming back. After

soaking in all the foreign cuisine that

was nowhere to be found in my city, it

was nice to come back to the old and

familiar, at least for a while. That was up

until 5 years ago or so - when Ljubljana

finally opened up its gastronomic borders

and limitations.

And I’m not talking about (just) in the

sense of ethnic world cuisine. It was also

every day lunch offer that was lacking

some innovation, inspiration, creativity.

A bland mix of traditional Slovenian

cuisine (mostly narrowed down to sausage

and other meat products, potato,

grains, doughs, salads, fish and such

dishes), Italian, and maybe “Mexican”

4 www.ljubljananjam.si #ljubljananjam

EDITOR’S NOTE

(as in tortillas) prevailed, and there was

not a lot room for something different.

How come things are looking completely

different now?

True, Instagram and other social media

- game changers also in the culinary

world - were not as present back then,

but it was also people behind the tabletops

that were, so it seemed, stuck

in the very same routine. As well as us,

eaters. Happy to serve and eat same

thing all over again, without desiring or

demanding something more. Not to say

it was bad quality - quite the contrary, I

believe our food here was always highly

valued. But just deeply rooted in what

we knew for ages.

Fast forward to 2019, it is anything like

this. Vegan, gluten-free, lactose-free,

aged steaks, LCHF lunches, wine &

craftbeer tastings, sourdough workshops,

specialty coffee cuppings, chef

battles, signature dishes, restaurant

weeks, pop-up dinners, street food

markets and more abound, and we

couldn’t be happier - or perhaps also

confused. That’s why we‘ve created

this mini guide to help you maneuver

through the now-overwhelming Ljubljana

cuisine, because even though

we’re a small city, there’s tons of tasty

events going on. Intertwined with our

dear old habits.

foodie, because we know your time

here is limited and we wish you to make

the most of it. We’ve also included important

dates when some restaurants

might be closed or have a special menu

prepared - it always helps to be updated

about our customs and holidays (which

we take very seriously). You’ll also find

more in-depth glimpse into what’s

going on in the city with interviews of

prominent local gastronomic personas,

and other hints to explore the yummy

side of the Alps with your tastebuds

- also outside of the strict city centre

district, which does have the highest

percentage of listed venues, but it’s

on the outside that Ljubljana life really

happens.

We hope you will enjoy our little gift

for you for making the best decision

and booking a food tour with us. We

hope you will fall in love with Ljubljana’s

cuisine like we did. And the best part?

I don’t have to travel anymore but the

world has travelled to me. (Just kidding

- I will never stop travelling.) And that

makes it not only nice to return, but to

stay in Ljubljana.

Iva Gruden

LjubljanaYum founder & manager

In this booklet you will therefore find

the places we’ve picked for you, dear

www.ljubljananjam.si

#ljubljananjam

5

LJUBLJANA DRINK

& DINE SCENE

BREAKDOWN

LJUBLJANA DRINK & DINE SCENE BREAKDOWN

Culinary survival guide

• Pick a table, wait to be served, and

wave your fingers when you want

the bill. We have table service with

rare exceptions.

• Value added tax (VAT) is already

included in the bill. It is either 9,5

(food) or 22 % (service and luxury

items like alcohol and coffee).

• Tipping is not mandatory for small

expenses but it is always appreciated.

So if you were satisfied with the

service, leave some cash and make

everyone happy.

• Coffee (kava) is considered

espresso but there is now lots of

specialty coffee options (Chemex,

cold brew etc). Milk is always 3,6%

fat or veggie alternative (rice, soy,

almond, oat). Also, no free refill.

There is take away coffee, but we’re

not big on it as in North America.

For some reason, the one at gas

stations is phenomenal! Pro tip: try

barley coffee, (ječmenova kava), a

fantastic decaf alternative.

• Ice coffee (ledena kava) means

espresso with whipped cream and

gelato. Don’t expect americano over

ice.

• Our ice cream (sladoled) is

gelato and mostly done by cafes

themselves. You can also get it

straight from the machine, slightly

softer (tekoči sladoled).

• Lunch is the big thing here, hence

that many lunch menus. It consists

of soup, main dish, salad and dessert.

You can’t avoid salad. It will be served

with every lunch menu. Yes we eat

all that during our lunch break.

• In summertime, we love to drink

radler – shandy: a mix of lemonade

and lager beer. They come in

different flavours, such as grapefruit

and blood orange. Winelovers opt

for spritz (špricer): white wine

with soda. Younger generations

love bambus (red wine + coke) or

mishmash (red wine + fanta). True

story.

• Tea (čaj) for us is herbal: mint,

chamomile, rosehip, mountain

flowers, elderflower … If you want

black/green tea, ask for „real“ tea

(pravi čaj).

• No hard liquor is for sale before

10am, and after 9pm in shops (in

bars yes).

• Students enjoy special coupons for

certain (well, almost all) restaurants.

So don’t be surprised if you are

offered a separate student menu

if you look like one. (NB: They still

keep asking us, 30-somethings, if

we’re students … )



• Be prepared. Fish can be served

with head.

• Mulled wine comes as red and white.

• At farmers markets, there is also

foreign (mainly Italian) produce, so

make sure you ask the vendor if they

haven’t written so. It’s understood:

Slovenia is too small to produce

everything.

• Open alcohol is OK. So go find your

favourite bench and sip a glass. Just

keep it classy.

• Smoking indoors is not allowed since

2007. Anywhere outside (patios,

parks) is OK.

Talk like a local foodie

Water = voda

Coffee / espresso = kava / espresso

Tea = čaj

Wine (White / Red) = vino (belo /

rdeče)

Beer (Light / Dark) = pivo (svetlo /

temno)

Starter = predjed

Main course = glavna jed

Dessert = sladica

Soup = juha

Pasta = testenine

Risotto = rižota

Salad = solata

Drinks = pijača

Thank you = hvala

You’re welcome / Please = prosim

Do you serve traditional Slovenian

food? = Ali ponujate tradicionalne

slovenske jedi?

Table for two, please. = Mizo za dva,

prosim.

Sorry, where is the toilet? = oprostite,

kje je wc?

A latte, please. = Kavo z mlekom,

prosim.

Could you bring me the wine list,

please? = Mi lahko prinesete vinsko

karto, prosim?

Is there any Slovenian craftbeer on

offer? = Ali ponujate slovensko butično

pivo?

Is this dish vegetarian? = Je ta jed

vegetarijanska?

I don’t eat gluten. = Ne jem glutena.

I’m allergic to milk and dairy

products. = Alergičen / Alergična sem

na mleko in mlečne izdelke.

Enjoy your meal! = Dober tek!

Yum, it’s really delicious! = Mmm, res

je dobro!

Receipt, please! = Račun, prosim!

It’s all good, keep the change. = Je že

v redu, razliko kar obdržite.


#ljubljananjam

9


Foodie dates to

remember

• martinovo (St. Martin’s day):

November 11 and both Saturdays

before and after this date. Mark:

St. Martin’s goose, red cabbage and

mlinci (special type of pasta).

• pust (carnival): 40 days before

Easter, in February / March. Mark:

donuts.

• velika noč (Easter): Easter Monday,

in March / April. Mark: ham in

dough, horseradish, hard boiled egg,

potica.

• božič (Christmas): December 25th.

Mark: potica.

• beer festival: Beer and burger

(spring & fall) + others

• wine festivals: Ljubljana wine route

(3 times per year)

• ekopraznik (Organic farmers

market festival): first or second

weekend in September

• teden restavracij (Restaurant

week): twice a year, in March and

October. Caution: many restaurants

are full these weeks so book ahead!

• Odprta kuhna (Open kitchen):

street food festival every non-rainy

Friday between March & October

Important holidays

in Slovenia (when you can expect

certain restaurants to be closed):

• January 1 st & 2 nd – New Year’s day

(alternative: hike and enjoy the food

up in the mountains, ice skating,

cinema)

• February 8 th – France Prešeren

culture day (alternative: hike or visit

all the galleries and museums which

are free this day)

• April 27 th – Day of uprising against

occupation (alternative: head over

to the coast)

• May 1 st & 2 nd – Labour day

(alternative: hike or visit one of

many spas with thermal water)

• June 25 th – Independence day

(alternative: hike! - Yys we know,

we’re repeating ourselves, or have

fun in public outdoor pool)

• August 15 th – Assumption day

(alternative: head over to the coast

or again up in the mountains, visit

natural thermal water Grič at Klevež)

• October 31 st – Reformation day

(alternative: go to the woods and

enjoy colourful nature)

• November 1 st - All saints day

(alternative: have yourself a big

portion of street roasted chestnuts,

pamper yourself in a spa)

• December 25 th & 26 th – Christmas

& Independence and unity day

(alternative: ice skating, stroll

through the center with mulled wine

or thick hot chocolate)



Eating / opening times:

• Snack / Lunch: 11am - 3pm

• Dinner: 6-9 pm

• Coffee: anytime

• Farmers market: 8am - 2pm

• Odprta kuhna (March - October

Friday street food market): 9am -

9pm or later

If you compare us to

other Europeans, we …

• Don’t have a siesta like Italians and

Spanish so things ARE open in the

afternoon as well.

• Are not so big on eating breakfasts

or brunches out however this is

increasing in the last years.

• Drink coffee with milk also in the

afternoon.

• Eat dinner early so you can start

planning your reservation at around

7pm.

• Have a thing called “malica” (snack)

which is similar to the main dish

from lunch menu. Usually it’s a one

pot dish that includes some meat.

Other useful info on

Ljubljana:

SPA:

• Sense Wellness Grand hotel Union

• Saruna Wellness & Fitness club

(InterContinental hotel)

• Sense Wellness Austria Trend

• Atlantis Water Park

• Sunny studio

POOL:

• Grand hotel Union

• Športna hiša Ilirija

• Tivoli

• Kodeljevo

• Atlantis Water Park

• In summer also: Laguna, Kolezija

CINEMA:

• Komuna

• Dvor

• Kinoteka

• Kolosej

ACTIVITIES:

• Watermelon Ljubljana by bike –

best bike tours in Ljubljana, led by

Tevž

• Bananaway SUP adventures–

explore Slovenia with a stand-up

paddleboard, team of adrenalin

junkies awaits you

• Ljubljana Guides– licensed tour

guides who want to share the

beauty of Ljubljana with you, we

recommend their music tour and

hikes around Ljubljana

• Alternative Ljubljana – check out

the quirky, avant-pop and wtf?! side

of Ljubljana

• Running Ljubljana – join Miha on a

running tour through the city centre

of Ljubljana


#ljubljananjam

11


Our friends around

Slovenia

• Winestronaut – explore Vipava

wine region on a unique cellar-tocellar

expedition among grape vines

• Faladur – Vipava wine and craft

beer tastings with food pairings +

visit the neighbor brewery Pelicon

• Adele in Slovenia – English expat

blogger with loads of useful info on

trips and hikes

• Slocally – your local guide in Soča

valley, enjoy staying their Herbal

Houses

• Slotrips - dedicated to all outdoor

fans who’d like to discover our

country by themselves (or their

amazing guides)

• Wandering Helene – explore

Slovenia through the eyes of

American blogger living in Slovenia

+ our office mate


FOODIE

CATEGORIES

EXPLAINED

FOODIE CATEGORIES EXPLAINED

Self-catering

If you’re air bnb-ing, tired of eating out

or just plain can’t leave your cooking

skills to rest, we got you covered too.

Apart from the farmers markets there

are quite a few grocery shops around.

Only a few of them downtown, though

(like a Mercator in Stritarjeva street),

but take a few steps to other districts

(like Trnovo) and you already have supermarkets

there (it might again be

Mercator).

Sunday no fun day ...

On Sundays, many restaurants are

closed as we all head over to Bled, the

coast, or just generally somewhere out

of Ljubljana (usually hiking). There are

however still some pretty sweet spots

open (just check their respective opening

times) so we’ve picked them for you

to enjoy Sunday Ljubljana in a yummy

style nevertheless - and you can always

do so with our food tour.

For the love of SLOVEnian

food

Generally all restaurants and bars in the

city centre have been changed in the

past 5 years. Period. There is a new generation

now dwelling downtown and our

eating habits have changed, predominantly

towards embracing world fusion

cuisine trends (and caricature of “traditional”

Slovenian cuisine). However,

there are still some spots that cater for

our true Slovenian comfort food. More

so, though, on the edges of the city so

feel free to roam over there too.

Breakfast & brunch

If there is any biggest step forward in

Ljubljana, it is the offer of breakfast

& brunch places now. In 2016 almost

noone was offering anything beyond

classical ham & cheese toast and croissant

to start your day, now venues with

granola, eggs Benedict, French toast

etc is mushrooming. Ok, for our standards.

Point is: you won’t starve until

lunch like you used to!

We mean business

In Ljubljana for work and in need to close

a deal? No problem, let’s find you a table.

We’ve selected some spots that are

cosy yet secluded enough to enable you

some privacy.

Drinks

You’re never too far away from a bar anywhere

in Ljubljana, but there are some

that will pour you more than just regular

beer & wine oldies goldies (Union and

Laško, or haložan and janževec). Quite a

few places now offer a great selection of

anything alcoholic, as well as a fabulous

atmosphere to get you into the mood

for that Friday night party time … Introducing

Daktari, Magda, Pritličje, LP

bar, anything on Petkovšek river side.



Meat

We’ve evolved past fried steaks Wienna

style and now cater for meat lovers

from all over the world. The word you’ll

hear most often is aged angus beef but

we got some more up our sleeves -

dare for a horse steak maybe? Or you

can stick just to your favorite spare ribs.

Let your juices flow at Čompa, Sorbara

steak house or Kralj žara.

Burgermania

True, with a few year’s lag but it’s definitely

very here: it’s all about burger

(and craftbeer) now. Own aged beef,

own bun recipes, own secret sauces …

We won’t say no to anything. People

love Pop’s place, Lars & Sven, Kavarna

Tiskarna, but our hearts go to Hood

burger. Watch out for the new trends

(at least for us) coming up: bahn mi,

gourmet pizza and hot dogs!

Special(ty) coffee

We take coffee very seriously. It’s a

ritual which requires us to sit down,

have a chat and connect with people.

But ... there’s coffee, and then

there’s coffee. Many places now go

beyond regular espresso-based drink

and will make you crave for more caffeine.

Think: single origin arabica, hand

picked, locally roasted, served with love

and explanation. Check out Čokl (fair

trade obsessed), STOW, Moderna,

Mala pražarna, Dobnik, and our favorite

Črno zrno.

Beer time

After long domination of local and world

famous big corporations’ lagers, the era

of fine local craft beer has finally arrived

a few years ago. In Ljubljana you’ll have

the feeling that all we drink are local

craft beer labels - and it’s true! Some

venues even took a bold move and decided

not to offer the most popular lager

brands at all but stay true only to

smaller brands. Look for breweries like

Human Fish, Pelicon, Reservoir dogs,

Mali grad, Green Gold Brewing, Hopsbrew,

Hopster, Lobik, Vizir, Barut,

Omnivar, Loo-bla-nah and ultimately

Bevog (though brewed in Austria but

wholeheartedly supported by Slovenian

team). Drink them at Sir Williams pub,

Lajbah, Premier or Petkovšek.

Plants, please!

Although it might seem we’re very

meat oriented, no despair: there is pl(a)

enty to eat for veg(etaria)ns too. The

increase has been insane in the last

few years, so for example just walking

around Nazorjeva and Slovenska street

makes you feel you’re in plant-based

food heaven. While some of the establishments

are devoted to such food

exclusively, others will happily modify

your order so it fits your preferences.

Look for Barbarella, Taman, Gaudi, Ve-


#ljubljananjam

15


ganika, and now even Hood burger in

Nazorjeva street has vegan / vegetarian

patties!

Kids time

So you’re visiting with your children –

welcome! Many places will already have

something prepared for them (crayons,

blackboards etc), but here’s a few places

that will let your youngsters enjoy even

more while you nibble & sip.

Wine

Long for its wines Slovenia has been

known and we serve them in pretty

much every single bar, restaurant and

cafe. But some establishments delve

into the subject more and bring you

more flavors that go beyond malvazija,

refošk, haložan, janževec and cabernet

sauvignon. There are three wine growing

regions in Slovenia as well as the

oldest vine in the world so they deserve

to be tested out more in-depth. Along

with some nice snacks. Check out Šuklje,

Movia, Dvorni bar.

Specialty drink shops

If you hadn’t made the mistake by

coming to Slovenia only with your hand

luggage, or have the advantage of travelling

by train, bus or car, you won’t regret

visiting these venues that offer a

great selection of fine Slovenian wines,

craftbeer, liqueurs, spirits and, yes, also

whiskey. Check out Single bled (whiskey),

Že v redu, Primož (craftbeer),

Pivoljub (craftbeer), Za popen’t (craftbeer),

Dvorni bar (wine), Dekanter

(wine), Balthazar (wine), Štorija (wine),

E-vino (wine).

Go beyond downtown

Ljubljana is much more than just the

city centre district, so why limit yourself

only to those (albeit fabulous) couple of

blocks? Do not be afraid to venture out,

maybe sit on a random bus number (like

one of our interviewees suggests) and

exit a couple of stations of you city centre

comfort zone. We’ve picked some

noteworthy spots also outside of the pedestrian

zone that really, really show you

how and locals dine and enjoy a cuppa.

Mark: in Vič district gostilna (typical Slovenian

inn) Žabar, sourdough bakery Art

Bread, restaurant Origano, Serbian restaurant

Čad, burger place Hood burger,

sourdough pizzeria & organic wines bar

Trappa; in Bežigrad district burger place

Kavarna Tiskarna; in Šiška district bar

Kino Šiška, sports bar & every Wednesday

hot dog haven Lepa žoga; in greater

Jarše district wine bar E-vino, restaurant

Cubo, steak house Argentino, gostilna

Pri Stričku. A bit out of Ljubljana you

can indulge in restaurants like Skaručna,

Grič.



Daily bread

You know that captivating smell of fresh

bread in the morning? We do too. That’s

why we like to visit these special bakeries

in town. But beware, you won’t

be alone so get there early while hot

supplies still last. We love to get them

fresh at bakeries Osem and Art bread,

Zrno do zrna, or at the indoor farmers

market.

For the sweettooth

We gotta take the best from the Austro-Hungarian

empire, right? That’s

why our tradition of making great cakes

and other desserts goes way back. You’ll

find rich chocolate and fruit cakes, apple

struedel bliss, doughnuts for carnival,

gelato overdose in the summer, and

much more. Don’t diet at Zvezda, Pri

vodnjaku, Domača peka, or at the indoor

farmers market.

Tea

Tea for us is mandatory, especially in

winter. And by tea we usually mean

herbal infusions: mint, chamomile,

rosehip, hibiscus, mixed alpine flowers,

linden, elderflower … and more and

more green, black and white tea. While

you can get a few herbal & “real” tea

classics everywhere, a few places truly

specialise into it. Such as Gallus, Cha.

Romantic spots

Ah, we’re at love - where else does food

lead us to anyway? Dimmed lights, possible

candles in the evening, fab views …

There’s a bunch of places to fall in love

(with).

Patio

Ljubljana is blessed with outdoor-friendly

weather (and residents

who appreciate it) pretty much whole

year. From March to late October, as

long as it’s sunny, and then in December

too, patios are our number one

pastime activity. Some offer great views

while others are just tucked away and

offer more privacy - find your favorite

outside nook.

Balkan

If there is any ethnic cuisine to recommend

the most in Ljubljana, it is definitely

from our ex Yugoslavia brothers:

Serbian and Bosnian cuisine. Predominantly

characterised by grilled minced

meat in many shapes and flavours

(remember Bosnians don’t use pork)

there’s lots for vegetarians too - loads

of bell peppers, beans and of course

their amazing bread. Get your Balkan

melos on at Čad, Das is Valter, Deset

v pol.


#ljubljananjam

17


Live music

Sure, there’s no lack of festivals over

here, but what about those casual Friday

night drinks with a band playing

in the background? Well, we got you

covered for that too. Frequently these

venues will brighten up your visit with

live music: Jazz Paradise club, Prulček,

Jazz club Sv. Florijan, Čin čin. For

more happenings, we recommend visiting

websites like Kam zvečer? or app

Tonight.

High end

You might be low key but we’ve got

enough high-end restaurants to prevent

you from staying so. We’re sure

you’ve already been to / are going to

Ana Roš’s Hiša Franko so you might as

well check out Ljubljana’s finest venus

such as JB (named after amazing chef

Janez Bratovž), Strelec (where chef

Igor Jagodic will blow you away), Manna

(perhaps more for the sea food lovers),

and Maxim (where all the fancy VIPS &

MPs regularly dine too).


VENUES

VENUES

LjubljanaYum

team’s Top 5

picks

Pia’s top 5:

1. For vegans: Barbarella

2. For beer lovers: Lajbah

3. For drinks with your friends: Pritličje

4. For pizza lovers: Verace

5. For best falafel: Abi Falafel

Nina’s top 5:

1. For best cake: Zvezda

2. For best burger: Johnny at Kavarna

Tiskarna

3. For best hot chocolate:

Pri vodnjaku

4. For best Italian food: 5-6kg

5. For best lunch place: Tabar

Iva’s top 5:

1. For baby friendly cafe: Mestno igrišče

2. For comfort food cravings: Res Dobr

3. For business lunch: Robba

4. For parents’ night out: Luda (for dinner)

and LP bar (for drinks)

5. For best masala chai: Daktari


VENUES

Legend:

wine

beer (usually craft)

coffee (usually specialty)

vegetarian and/or vegan

breakfast and/

or brunch

bread and/or cakes

and pastries

bar

kids friendly

lunch

business

open Sundays

Slovenian food

live music

romantic spot

great patio

SHOPS, BAKERIES & TAKE-AWAYS

Bakery Osem

Best sourdough fix in city centre,

owned by baker Andrej who lives literally

in the building around the corner of

it. Get there early as the bread (usually

reserved beforehand by locals) runs

out by 3pm or so. Look out for their

weekly specials like cinnamon buns and

seasonal favorites like panetone. Beside

bread, it’s a great place to buy flour, olive

oil and bread bags (made by Andrej’s

partner).

Dobrote Dolenjske (Dolenjska

Delights)

If you’re looking for local, hand made,

organic, honest and delicious gifts, this

is your spot. A cute little shop from

usually overlooked tourist destination

in the South-West - Dolenjska region -

provides a whole range of edible gems.

Most of it you can try before buying

which is an extra plus, and opposite

there’s a few more ultimate Slovene

gourmet souvenir shops to explore:

Soline (Piran salt products), Gujžina

(pumpkin seed oil, also a restaurant),

Honey house. A bit further down the

same street opposite of the Cathedral

you’ll find Zakladi Slovenije, Kraševka

and other nice shops. There, your gourmet

shopping is done.


#ljubljananjam

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Klobasarna

After three generations of a watch repair

shop it was time for Logar family

to rethink their business - and being

great food aficionados, they decided to

open the first Slovenian only fast food

hole in a wall. Yummy Carniola sausage

(=kranjska klobasa), vegetarian jota and

ričet stews, sweet štruklji and (non)alcoholic

beverages make up a menu that

draws both tourists and locals alike. And

they even have Bevog beer which is

definitely a plus for us!

Moji štruklji Slovenije

No traditional Slovenian food list is

complete without štruklji – rolled pastry

with various fillings, wrapped, cooked

and sliced. It is thus no wonder that a

štruklji-only eatery Moji štruklji (My štruklji)

finally opened in 2017 at the main

farmers market. The couple behind it is

Monika and Peter Vogelnik who run

very popular Kofce mountain hut and

prepare there their famous štruklji. We

love their combos of traditional hearty

stews (ričet, jota, chicken stew etc)

and buckwheat groats with sauerkraut,

sometimes with local wine or craft beer.

It’s like being in the mountains but without

the hike!

Gelateria Romantika

We’ve evolved pass artificially flavored

ice cream we all grew up on (and still

turned out ok) and Ljubljana now sports

quite a few amazing gelato places. The

one we swear by is Gelateria Romantika

with its all-natural (no pre-made pastes

used), made in-house, crazy-flavored

gelato and sorbet which you can enjoy

in their tiny patio with a gorgeous view

of the riverside and castle - especially

during sunset hours. Try their seasonal

surprises like truffles, hazelnut and

asparagus, or all-time favorite chocolate

with Piran salt flower. If the owner

Mateja is there, chat with her and

see for yourself why she dropped her

lawyer’s career - being surrounded by

freshly made gelato is a much better

office!

Hood burger

It all started in Trnovo hood in front of


VENUES

Sax pub where two economics graduates

with a trailer thought, how about

making an awesome burger made all

from Slovene ingredients? And so,

fast forward a few years, they moved

on from the pop-up trailer to owning

a real heavy duty container in front of

Interspar Vič, a restaurant in Nazorjeva

street downtown and a street food

stand within a food court in BTC shopping

area. We’d say it’s the best value

for money and we love their occasional,

seasonal surprises.

Barbarella

If vegans and vegetarian were almost

left hungry a decade ago, this is not

the case anymore as we have an abundance

of eateries now catering fur such

tastes. One that sticks out might be

Barbarella with her bistro at the central

market named Arkade, or (though not

just) juice bar in Slovenska road. Banana

bread, buddha bowls, detox smoothies,

all the #cleaneats lingo you can think of,

they got you covered.

(yes, also vegan). Come early, around

noon, because they close by 3pm and

there’s a lot of hungry students around

from neighboring high schools and university

who’d love to have those delights.

Domača peka

When we’re not feeling like baking our

own desserts (which we do a lot), we

like to get them where it’s almost like at

home - at that for us is Domača peka

(Homestyle baking). Owner Tilen Mejač

is continuing his mother’s over 20

year tradition of baking only the best

treats, using no artificial additions or no

margarine, but lots of love, devotion and

only the real deal. This includes cakes,

poticas, pies, rolls, cookies and other

droolable delights which we like to have

as to go (and pretend to our guests we

made them ourselves) or if the need is

high right there on the spot with some

hot drinks. Tip: their seasonal bites like

Carnival donuts, or summer štrudls or

soft ice cream are a big hit!

Šunknžemlja

It is much more than what it is - šunka

(ham) and žemlja (bun). But this old

school expression for a quick sandwich

break gives away the theme of this tiny

shop in Igriška street: freshly made

sandwiches designed for your taste

Horacij

Locally owned shop Horacij, named

after French protector of bakers, offers

a variety of locally produced baked

goods, pastas, artisan chocolates and

breads. You can also try one of the best

Slovenian whiskey and locally produced


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liquor, such as ‘borovničke’ and ‘medica’.

If you are more of a fashion admirer,

they also exhibit (and sell) designer

clothes, designed by young Slovenian

fashion designers.

Another one like that (selling Slovenian

designers items) is shop Ika - across the

bridge and square from Horacij.

RESTAURANTS

5-6 kg

A team of foodie enthusiasts will pamper

you with their homey, seasonal,

Mediterranean Slovenia inspired daily

lunches and dishes like octopus goulash

with polenta, sausages with potatoes,

seafood pasta and other delights

- like their famous squid ink dough pizza

(form the wood oven, obviously). Their

meats & cheese interpretations are also

finger-licking. Located at the very end

of beautiful Medieval Ljubljana and very

well worth a few extra steps.

Altroke

If Ljubljana can’t be at the the seaside,

the seaside comes to Ljubljana - in

the form of Altroke (meaning indeed),

Matjaž Čok’s place full of family run

recipes and modern twists on Istrian

traditions. Recently we’ve been loving

their nona Lidija’s tortelini, mussels

in white wine and … well, we can’t get

enough of their incredible pastas made

only with local, genuine ingredients.

Vino & ribe

The name says it all, wine and fish.

Straight from the Adriatic coast or

carefully selected from abroad. Another

family establishment by Matjaž Čok

(beside Altroke, located directly opposite)

it ensures to bring you modern

creations of old fish traditions. Our favorites

include sardele in šavor, stuffed

calamari and homemade pate. Oh, and

wine, obviously.

Robba

Same owner as tourists’ favorite Julija

and more high end Valvas’or, Vito Korošec

decided Robba to be a bit more

urban, yet retaining Slovene classics.

Referring to our famous Francesco

Robba fountain almost opposite of the

venue, we love coming here for daily

lunch options or dinners, especially on

Sundays or holidays. Their staff is super

friendly. Check out their duck salad,

deconstructed Prekmurje gibanica layer

cake, and cocktail list.


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Gostilna dela

You can start already there for breakfast

but it’s their lunch we recommend

in this socially responsible venue. As

a spin-off of their programme where

they create working opportunities for

people lacking social skills, education

or bear any other social stigma, they

offer a daily different meat, vegetarian

and fish dishes to satisfy all the working

crowds surrounding their area. Come

early to get your spot because the word

ef their excellence is already very out

there.

Bazilika

The woman in charge, Darja Končarevič,

now has a mini-empire of healthy,

mostly vegetarian, innovative dishes in

5 establishments all around downtown

(Bistro, Križanke, Miklošičeva, Cankarjev

dom, and now also Bife). A perfect

feel-good sit-down for any time of the

day and instagram itches. We love their

occasional gourmand escapades like

cevicheria, Japanese nights and cosy

brunches.

Le petit cafe

The names says it’s small but the reputation

is not: delicious cakes, cute

interior, lovely breakfasts and lunches.

We heart their signature caffe latte - Le

Petit bela kava (which is not even coffee

but … be surprised). And no, they don’t

speak French.

Monstera

Nothing monstrous about this place

(the name actually comes from Latin

where Monstera deliciosa is a plant you

probably have in your office and it’s on

display here as well). Just pure good

food prepared by (not just) TV-famous

chef Bine Volčič: amazing lunches

Mon-Sat and 7-course tasting dinners

Thu-Sat with just “two menus - take it

or leave it”. If you dig Ana Roš, she’ll tell

you that’s where she’d dine when in Ljubljana

- enough said.


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Atelje

Known before as Smrekarjev hram,

nothing is the same as its ancestor: run

by heavily talented young chef Jorg Zupan,

it is an expression (hence the name

meaning atelier, studio) of his unique

ideas on Slovenian & fusion food. Come

for the tasty weekday lunches, stay

for the amazing creations, fascinating

homemade discoveries, extensive wine

list, interesting collaborations with other

chefs and hipster interior.

it anymore. If you’re craving a bit more

excellent Japanese cuisine, skip the

river across to Tokyo piknik for some

ramen & more, delight yourself with

some French desserts in the nearby

pastry shop Fetiche, or hop a bit more

pass Shoemakers bridge to Romeo and

enjoy some more sweet treats - their

crepes. For those on a diet, we recommend

Romeo’s salads - hanging out at

the river while doing so puts everyone in

a good mood.

Sveti Florijan

Besides the exquisite food and colorful

interior, Sv. Florijan is broken down into

4 different sections which come alive

at different times throughout the day;

a deli, a bistro, a restaurant and a jazz

club, all in one. A French-inspired place

for get-togethers with an open-air

kitchen, where attentive observers can

tune into their own live reality show. It

is located at the tail end of Gornji trg.

Sushimama (+ Tokyo piknik

& Romeo)

Owner Gregor Božičnik knows what

he’s doing with all of his & his brother’s

renowned businesses: Sushimana,

Tokyo piknik, Fetiche patisserie

and Romeo. Bringing high quality sushi

downtown was a bold move but we

cannot imagine Wolfova street without

Parma

We’re next to Italy so good pizza is easy

to find (there’s Trta in Prule district, and

if you like Napoli style, head over to Verace

under the castle), but Parma might

not be your classical pizza - yet still a

pretty exciting bite. Because you don’t

just get the thick, topping-laden baked

round bread but also all the atmosphere

and nostalgia that comes with it. It was

he first pizzeria not just in Slovenia but

also in whole Yugoslavia when it opened

in 1970s, and they’re still serving pizzas

from the same oven and serving the

same juices. Although they now pride

to use only organic flour. Look around

you, there’s a fat chance you’re sitting

among students munching on their student-coupon

treat.


VENUES

Sato Bento

There might not be a lot of Asians residing

in Slovenia but all we needed was

one Japanese under the name of Shin

Sato to establish the best izakaya in

town. Previously only a catering chef,

Shin opened his very own Japanese

foodie heaven in a totally unassuming

mini-shopping centre (90s were exploding

with them) in Ledina district.

Weekly lunch & dinner menus, casual

surprises (like Japanese Michelin star

guest chef evenings), deliveries - we

can never get enough of Shin’s ramen,

chirashi sushi or bento boxes!

Čompa

Don’t let the name fool you. Even

though it is called “Čompa” (a typical

dish from Soča valley of cottage cheese

stuffed potatoes), this is the ultimate

meat heaven, but not only. Best known

for fresh raw & grilled meat delicacies,

you’ll also want to come for their tasty

vegetarian dishes, made exclusively of

fresh, simple genuine ingredients. On a

side note, we highly recommend booking

in advance to avoid disappointment

of occupied tables for hours.

Resdobr

Formerly known as Fejst meni, this sorta

hole in a wall offers one of the best

homey lunches and snacks in town. We

love going there for their daily soups

and stews, meatballs with mashed potato,

stuffed zucchinis, signature warm

radicchio with various toppings, apple

pie … You name it, they’ll have it - according

to the season. As one of the

reviews on Facebook page says: great

food, healthy options, creative cuisine.

Mala terasa

Named after a hugely popular song

from the 60s (when music was still music

… ) from a band Bele vrane, Small

terrace, this tiny spot has a big flavour.

Situated on top of a, you guess it, terrace

it offers one of the tastiest, homemade,

fast and healthiest take-away

or sit-down lunches. One pot dishes,

pastas, wraps, goulash, fish - whatever’s


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in season, they prepare it with love and

gusto, and lots of veggies and flavorful

spices. See you there!

Luda

Although they’re constantly changing

their hours of operation (lunch and/or

dinner), menus (set tasting / a la carte)

and booking system (mandatory / walkin)

- so check their website for the latest

situation, one thing always remains

the same: great food. And wine. (And

no menu modification according to

your latest diet fad.) Owned by co-creators

of other yummy businesses such

as sourdough pizzeria Trappa in Vič and

its take-away sister Trappica downtown,

with its own chef, expect simple,

straightforward dishes - well, now they

decided to offer just seafood ones -

with heaps of plating inspiration, high

quality ingredients and amusing flavours.

Just beware of taking those steps

downwards to the toilet after you’ve

had a few …

Figovec

What used to be one of the oldest inns

in Ljubljana, closed after many many

years of operation, then turned into a

curry house, then Spanish tapas place

- only to be opened yet again as a traditional

Slovenian food haven in 2017. It’s

like our grandma’s cuisine but way more

instagrammable. And listen to the truly

Slovenian music there too!

TOZD

First bar in town with such wicked interior

design (fixie bikes on walls, X-ray

menus behind the bar etc), it quickly

became one of local favorites for after-school

coffee (students love it),

chilled summer evenings (a few steps

away from the main hustle & bustle

makes a difference), before / after Saturday’s

farmers market visit chit-chat

and much more. One of the first to

introduce a Slovene craftbeer on tap,

roast their own coffee and tapas boards.

BARS, CAFES & PUBS


VENUES

Gallus tea house

Sitting on their patio at the river side

you’ll feel like in Paris. Except their forte

isn’t croissants and coffee but amazing

teas (also ice) and great cakes. Try perhaps

Plečnik’s (our most renowned architect)

tea blend, apparently it’s supposed

to bring you long life!

Pritličje

Based in the ground level (as the name

suggest) next to our city hall, you can’t

miss their fabulous patio as well as stylish

indoors. LGBT friendly and hosting

many social awareness events, it’s

a popular spot for everyone searching

for a relaxed “me” time with some great

coffee, cocktails, daily soups, pizzettas,

sweet treats - we can’t get enough of

their cheesecake. In the evenings, great

(usually live) DJ music ensures.

Čokl

Paving the way in specialty coffee, this

tiny hole in the wall which will greet you

with a “Friends don’t let friends drink

Starbucks” sticker has a great soul,

coffee offer, and mission - the place is

small but the coffee is big, they’ll say.

The eccentric owner Tine (who can talk

about coffee all day, every day) is all

about organic and fair trade beans, and

teaching you new appreciation of your

daily brew. Drinking coffee will never be

the same once you undergo his treatment.

Magda

Fresh oysters in the summer, meat &

cheese platters and fabulous selection

of high quality alcoholic drinks all

year, DJ nights on weekends - that

pretty much sums up what used to be

a dive bar for about 50 years-ish before

a team from ex notorious bar BiKoFe

turned it into Magda. Your friendly

neighbor that won’t say no to any outfit

or artistic idea you might have.

Sir Williams pub

Its subname House of beer does not do

it justice in full. Because there’s more

than just beer - it’s the BEST beer selection

in town (14 taps, of those mostly

Slovenian brews!) with savvy waiters,

eccentric manager Marco (yes, the c is

not a typo), cosy interior and delicious

charcuterie from the deli across the

road Dobrote.si. If you’re lucky, you

will crash the monthly tweet meet of

the twitter sphere in Slovenia meeting

there, or after-work (whenever that is)

of public TV & radio journalists who reside

also just opposite of the venue.


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Šuklje

True, Ljubljana had a few wine bars before

family-run Šuklje one opened in

June 2017, but none of them carried

this much love and devotion to the region

they belong to - Bela Krajina in the

southeast part of Slovenia. That’s why

we love their traditional and protected

flatbread pogača, cold cuts and other

tidbits they seasonally come up with.

And of course wine tasting flights. Additionally,

because of owner Katja and

her French husband Guillaume studies

and career, they carry a vast list of

French, South African and Australian

wines.

Lajbah

Situated in a pleasant neighbourhood,

just a few steps from Ljubljana’s Old

Town and the River Ljubljanica, and a

big brother of Že v redu, Primož beer

shop, Lajbah is a pub where lovers of

craft beer can enjoy sixteen different

tap brews and bottled beer from Slovenian

microbreweries and abroad.

However, it is more than that – their

rich worldwide cuisine selection of pub

food (what else do you expect from an

Argentinian-Slovenian chef?), also btw

Prulček

Prulček provides the best of small intimate

club gigs with great atmosphere

and thankful audience. It is visited almost

exclusively by locals who come

to drink a wide range of international/

artisan beers out at their terrace, underneath

a canopy of coloured umbrellas.

With curved bar and a glitter ball,

there’s a waft of provincial 1980s UK

nightclub about the venue’s interior,

but here is where you’ll find jazz, rock,

blues and cabaret performances almost

every evening. Excellent for music and

good vibes lovers.

vegetarian friendly, changes according

to the season. Don’t miss their special

events, like tap takeovers, one-day beer

festivals or fancier dinners with special

beer pairing.

Kolibri

What used to be the cool people’s long

time favorite bar BiKoFe is now known

as the cool people’s favorite cocktail bar

Kolibri. Bearing the name of a hummingbird

in Slovenian it is as quirky


VENUES

and special as its animal counterpart:

finely tuned cocktails, made from old

school pharmacy recipes from the US

prohibition times, are prepared by a

barman and mixologist in a super retro-cum-postmodern

interior where

relaxed chat, secret whispers and sexy

encounters might ensue, as they promise.

Your best “prescribed” dose of high

quality alcohol without prescription.

Črno zrno

There’s at least another famous Colombian

export, and we’re more than

excited to have it dealt directly here in

Ljubljana. We’re talking of course about

coffee. Specifically, specialty coffee

brought to your daily brew by a Colombian,

married to a Slovenian, named

Alex. Another hole in a wall, beautifully

decorated (Alex’s main profession is an

architect!) and ever more fabulously

stocked with always freshly roasted and

seasonally adjusted Colombian coffee

beans straight from the growers. Come

for the cold brew, stay for the stories. If

there’s a more Latino lover-ish person

describing and preparing your favorite

cuppa than Alex, let us know!

stacked with worldly books, a (legit)

indoor smoking area, stuffed leopard

overseeing the entrance … with all the

drinks and food you’ve definitely had

(at least we did) - Slovenian craftbeer,

homemade masala chai, and of course

our favorite breakfast čokolino. Did we

mention they have a patio, live gigs and

upper neighbors getting their drinks

from a bucket dropped down on a rope

too? Others just have to sit on their

chilled patio and watch the hordes of

tourists making their way to the castle

funicular while sipping ginger & lemon

ice tea …

You’ll find Daktari under “what’s not to

like” in dictionary for sure.

Pri vodnjaku

Is there a place with thick, yummy hot

chocolate in winter, a wide selection of

delectable ice cream in summer and indulgent

homemade cakes in between?

Too easy - Pri vodnjaku (At the fountain),

of course! We’re in love with their

vintage interior and coziness where,

along with your sweet guilty pleasures’

treats, you’ll forget the rest of the

world. Pure decadence.

Daktari

Imagine a living room you never had (at

least we didn’t) - red velvety couches,

piano in the corner, bookshelves

Zvezda

True to its name, Zvezda is a well-lit star

among patisseries in Ljubljana. Opened

in 1999, it has spread out a number of


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devoted fans and to a few other locations

(another one in downtown would

be in hotel Slon). Not the cheapest

option in town but savoring one of the

many scrumptious cakes on offer, and

in such a prime location as next to park

Zvezda (= star) where it’s just as much

about seeing than being seen, has its

price.

else. Mostly focusing on drinks but they

do surprise with some delicious edible

items every now and then.

Žmauc

Ah, legendary Žmauc. Don’t be surprised

if you spot some local celebrities

there (actors, directors, singers, photographers

and the like) because it’s a

perfect hideaway in a quieter part of

town than at the river. Plus, the vibe, interior

and their patio is unlike anywhere

NEIGHBORHOODS

Petkovšek river bank

If Ljubljana had a beer garden like the

Germans, this would be it: Petkovšek,

Premier, Fany & Mary, Lockal and Forum

all serve great Slovenian and foreign

craft & commercial beer. Some

establishments also serve quite nice

food (though for a more substantial

meal it’s probably best you sit down

at Most restaurant in the same strip).

Best enjoyed during warm months in

their patios when the area is swarming

with beer drinkers (especially during

some sports match), although we hang

around outside also in winter.

Trubarjeva street

Let’s face it, Ljubljana is a pretty mono-cultural

city. Which reflects in our

culinary offerings as well. However, in

recent years, eateries with roots from

all over the world have been growing,

especially in Trubarjeva street where

you can get everything from Greek,

Bengali and Lebanese treats to falafel,

Asian bistro, plus a wine and beer shop.


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Yep, a street that takes you around

the world! Our favorites include Abi

Falafel, Osha, Že v redu Primož beershop,

Libanonske meze, Pinseria Rus-

tika, Čompa, and below Resljeva street

Namaste express, Zrno do zrna shop,

Štorija wine shop.


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Prule & Krakovo

You might think Medieval Ljubljana ends

with Zois street and Šentjakob bridge,

but it continues across into Žabjak,

Prule, Krakovo and almost Trnovo districts.

Well worth exploring not only because

of historical sights (such as special

type of architecture, urban gardens

or famous architect Jože Plečnik’s museum)

but also due to foodie endeavors:

Lajbah for craftbeer, Trta for pizza,

Špica caffe for relaxed drink in the sun

(try not to feed the nutria - coypu), and

on the other river bank Nostalgija vintage

cafe for retro buzz, Krakov’c bar

for their awesome patio, Mala pražarna

for specialty coffee, Craft room for artisanal

beer, Pri Škofu inn for a tucked

away bite, Jakob Franc for Slovenian

food fare, and Eipprova street for a residential

style pub feeling.

Outskirts: Žabar, Pri stričku,

Kmečki hram, Cubo, Pri

Kovaču

Home is (mostly) where city centre is

not so no wonder the more traditional

food venues abound in predominantly

residential districts. You have

Žabar (žaba meaning frog, and we Ljubljanaeers

are frog people because of

the swamp land on the south) in Vič,

Pri stričku (At the uncle’s) in Jarše,

Kmečki hram (Countryside temple)

in Tomačevo, almost high-end haven

Cubo in Jarše, or Pri Kovaču (At the

Smith’s) in Sostro - which is basically

already almost outside of Ljubljana.

And many more. Our advice: it’s worth

going a few kilometres outside of your

comfort city centre zone to try hearty

dishes at these eateries and discover

how we truly like to eat and drink.


INTERVIEWS

INTERVIEWS

Kaja

Sajovic,

food journalist & writer

Photo: personal archive

For the past 13 years, Kaja Sajovic has

worked as a journalist for RTV Slovenia.

Besides foreign policy, she also

specialises in culinary art and is the

editor of the culinary-travel section

on the national Radio and TV website.

She is also a co-author of brand new

Slovenian gastronomic strategy and a

co-author of Ana Roš’s first monography,

written for Phaidon New York.

And may we add, she’s a silent lady

with a sharp tongue. At the same time

she is also an avid traveler and a big

gourmand. Due to her role as a foodie,

she always plans her travels around

visits to selected restaurants and wine

makers.

What does Ljubljana mean to you?

I have lived in Ljubljana my entire life.

During this time, Ljubljana has undoubtedly

changed a lot, especially in

the last decade. Recently it has become

quite popular with tourists. It is a green,

safe and manageable city - all of which

are huge positive points. But the biggest

disadvantage is that it still seems

to be lagging behind some trends. For

example, opening a burger place, even a

good one, cannot exactly be considered

highlight of the year as some would feel.

There is still a lot of room for more cool

restaurants, (natural) wine bars, sourdough

bakeries, small artiginal shops,

craft brew pubs and cocktail bars managed

by worldly people who actually

travel, drink and eat, not just those who

are looking for somewhere to deposit

their money.

How about the foodie scene - has it

changed too?

The Ljubljana food scene has made a

huge step forward, particularly in the

past five years. Especially in the area of

modern bistros, which alas, are still so

few that they can be counted on one

hand. We also really need more venues

with focus, vision and depth as mentioned

above. Chefs need more depth,

as well as the service staff – service is

particularly a weak point in Slovenia

in general – the argument being that

they’re not being paid enough, but I

disagree – I think they lack interest in

the profession.

In the field of high-end cuisine we

have Igor Jagodic from Strelec, Janez

Bratovž from JB and Jorg Zupan from

Atelje. Atelje is showcasing Zupan’s

exceptional, modern, fresh, cosmopolitan

cuisine (he has done a few stages

abroad), but can sometimes be a bit

heavy. Ljubljana was also finally swept

by the bistro trend: Monstera has contributed

a lot, followed by Luda. Another

great venue is Tabar where they

master small plates and have by far the

best wine list in town (the latter being


INTERVIEWS

very rare in Ljubljana where wine lists

are very predictable).

In Ljubljana there is still considerable

room for niche restaurants. The restaurants

with foreign cuisine are, besides a

few exceptions, mostly below average.

The potential for quality bistros and

wine bars that offer small plates/snacks

is huge. I also miss showcasing quality

local producers – a cheese shop,

a sourdough shop … When you walk

around Ljubljana is hard to grasp what

really Slovenian cuisine is.

How is Ljubljana culinary scene compared

to the rest of the world?

You can find enough quality restaurants

for one weekend, but then you slowly

run out of them. Trends usually come

here after a long delay, which makes me

sometimes feel like we are a closed, uneducated

country, where the “culinary

event of the year” is simply when a new

burger joint or a pizzeria opens.

The longest lines at our Open Kitchen

streetfood market are usually in front

of quick, cheap Asian eats, as if Slovenes

haven’t yet stepped beyond our

borders to try something new. It is still

more important for us to eat inexpensively

than it is to eat food that is of high

quality, and this situation is something

which I think is closely linked to the Slovene

mentality. I never understood why

Slovenians are afraid to really showcase

their assets like excellent pumpkin oil,

olive oil, štruklji, bear meat … instead

they prefer to open another pizza place.

Where do you like to hang out?

Everyone probably has their own favourite

favorite place, one which they

continue to insist is the best, even after

many new outlets have opened. So my

happy place is Tabar, which I mentioned

earlier. I am a fan of natural wines, so

their wine list always speaks to me, and I

like their food which is relatively original

and daring. It’s worldly and yet based on

Slovenian produce. Young chef Jakob

Pintar is definitely one of the more talented

Slovenian chefs.

We don’ really have a lot of hipster cafes

where they would be really dedicated

to the art of coffee making, so when

it comes to where to grab a coffee or

a glass of whisky, I swear by Kinodvor,

perhaps because I am a film buff and it’s

pretty close to where I work.

I like to have dinner at Luda (good food,

great wine list but poor service) or quick

sushi/miso soup lunch at Sushimama.

On special occasions I eat at Atelje or

Čompa if I crave for really good meat.

For horse meat Krušič is the way to go.

I would also like to mention Skaručna

and Grič, both outside of Ljubljana, and

maybe a bit too expensive to visit as a

by the

way. For authentic Slovenian food,

head to Gostilna Mihovec outside Ljubljana

and order liver. And for cocktails

and speakeasy atmosphere Kolibri.

How could you spend a weekend in

Ljubljana?

If money isn’t an obstacle, absolutely

head over to Skaručna, which is proba-


#ljubljananjam

37

INTERVIEWS

bly the best display of Slovenian cuisine,

along with a show their flamboyant chef

Slavko Žagar jr. puts on. For a higher,

classical culinary experience book a table

at Strelec, and for those who prefer

a bolder, more youthful high-end

specialties visit Grič, Tabar, Atelje or

Monstera. For meat lovers, your place

is Čompa.

For burger and beer it has to be Pop’s

Place, and wine-lovers should stop by

Movia Bar, Tozd, Tabar or Wine bar

Šuklje. Another option is to grab some

sourdough bread at the bakery Osem,

some quality Italian delicacies at Dobrote.si,

and then find a space by the

Ljubljanica river for a picnic.

On Friday, it’s time for Open Kitchen

which is a nice display of the culinary

and wine Ljubljana has to offer.

Boštjan

Napotnik,

food blogger & critic

Photo: Uroš Abram

Boštjan Napotnik, for friends also

Napo, is a legend among food bloggers

and critics. He complements his

day job as a creative director of the

advertising company Futura with writing

restaurants’ reviews for the weekly

magazine Mladina, running the morning

programme at Radio Študent every

now and then and creating his food

blog kruhinvino.com (Bread & wine) already

since 2006. He is the author of

two bestselling cookbooks: Kuhinja za

prave moške (Cooking For Real Men)

and Orodjarna (Toolbox).

How would you rate the development of

our gastronomy scene in the last 5-10

years?

It seems to me that Ljubljana is in perpetual

transition or in development. It’s

a lot of momentum and ideas but they

all somehow disappear. It looks like Slovenian

restaurants are based on the assumption

that you will be visiting them

only once and never again, that’s why

they are not trying to adapt their menus

to the seasons and cherish that.

How does Ljubljana culinary scene compare

with the rest of the world?

I think quite well, for me Ljubljana is

better than much bigger Croatian capital

Zagreb. Regardless of how little residents

our town has, I think the choice

and variety of offers are enviably good.

Where are you favorite places to hang

out?

I like going to the cult “hodok”or hot

dog event every Wednesday in Lepa

žoga bar, about five times a years. I like

Žmoht food truck in Moste district, for

the beer I step into Sir William’s pub,

across the street from it is the delikatessed

Dobrote.si where I go for some

salami and cheese. Japanese hole in

the wall Sato Bento is remarkable,


INTERVIEWS

TaBar on Ribji trg has the best price/

performance ratio on creative dishes

and stunning wine list. I really like most

venues in Trubarjeva street, especially

meat heaven Čompa and beer temple

Že v redu, Primož. At the bakery Osem

I usually buy just flour as I bake my own

bread. Also Monstera is very good, and

the central market hides some gems like

Okusi Istre - it feels good to hang out

there with a glass of wine. The neighboring

bar Shakira has the cheapest drinks

on the central market and is great for a

sip among vendors. For a cup of caffe

I head to nearby roaster Čokl. Outside

of city centre my favorites are homestyle

kitchen Pri stričku, Krušič and

Žabar, and Kevder - already outside of

Ljubljana limits in Brezovica - has some

great lavender smoked salmon.

How could you spend a weekend in Ljubljana?

Sundays are time for family, for traditional

Sunday lunches. If we are not

going to our in-laws, they come to us.

I really like to cook, so I always try to

find the time to do it. But I would recommend

a visit to the central market

on Fridays (on Saturdays it is already

too crowded), and in the evening some

beer in Sir William’s pub. On Saturday

you can take the kids to Urban roof in

Šiška or get out for some walk to Špica

and further to botanical gardens where

there is a nice coffee and tea spot

Primula. Cute is also the walk to Rožnik

hill above Tivoli park for some lunch at

a nice low-key restaurant. Additionally,

you can visit architectural museum in

castle Fužine (and discover that part of

Ljubljana as well) or get busy with the

outdoor gyms which are abundant in

Ljubljana’s parks.

Sabina

Penšek,

food stylist

Photo: personal archive

Sabina Penšek is a food stylist, food

blogger and generally a huge foodie. If

you ask her, she’ll introduce herself as

someone to whom food and eating represents

a part, or actually a great deal,

of life. Always surrounded by dishes

and various ingredients she’s definitely

a bit more precise and sensitive guest

and thus much more uncompromisingly

screens restaurants’ and cafes’ offer.

What is Ljubljana for you?

Ljubljana is my city. I am born here and

I don’t imagine my life anywhere else.

The city is wonderful, actually I think

it has grown, developed and adapted

together with me. Perhaps that’s why I

value or appreciate more what the city

offers and with what it can surprise us

every season of the year. The city is

quite small but that’s what it makes it so

homely and warm.


#ljubljananjam

39

INTERVIEWS

What about Ljubljana’s foodie scene?

In past five years Ljubljana adopted so

many culinary innovations that it sometimes

outshines even its neighboring

capitals or at least stands against it. The

trend is definitely cosmopolitanism, to

represent its citizens gourmet novelties,

whether it is worldwide cuisine or

new ideas just like that. Nevertheless,

it’s true the offer could be even more

bold. I think the citizens are craving it.

at the castle, and in the evening grab

some coffee and ice cream in the centre,

maybe in Hotel Slon or Zvezda, and

finish the night at the Opera bar or treat

yourself for a special occasion at Kolibri

bar with special blend of cocktails.

What are some of your favorite places to

dine?

I really like to go for a certain thing to

a certain place, for that something that

enchanted me for the time and left

memories forever. I take my coffee in

TOZD or cafe Čokl, gelato in Fetiche,

fried chicken wings at Gostilna na

gradu, Indian specialties at Maharaja,

glass of wine & snack before a show

at Vander, TaBar or Dvorni bar, warm

Prekmurje layer cake at Gujžina, masala

chai for a cold day break at Daktari,

burger at Pop’s place, weekday quick

lunch at Monstera and lazy weekend

lunch at Ramen by Maru, and beer in

Cutty Sark. And sushi - I hunt it wherever

it appears.

How about a gourmet weekend plan in

Ljubljana?

Apart from the plan you can make according

to my previous answer, I would

certainly visit Modern and National

gallery in the morning, in between stroll

through nearby Tivoli park, then lunch


USEFUL LINKS

USEFUL LINKS

Extra non foodie but still very useful links:

SPA:

Atlantis Water Park: http://www.atlantis-vodnomesto.si/en-gb

Saruna Wellness & Fitness club (InterContinental hotel): https://www.facebook.

com/sarunawellnessljubljana/

Sense Wellness Austria Trend: https://www.austria-trend.at/sl/hotels/ljubljana/

wellness

Sense Wellness Grand hotel Union: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1rMkjIKoMKD3IArMyua-tKEYCggOR16k6lSSzHkSkT6I/edit

Sunny studio: http://www.sunny.si/en/

POOL:

Atlantis Water Park: http://www.atlantis-vodnomesto.si/en-gb

Grand hotel Union: https://www.union-hotels.eu/en/grand-hotel-union/

sense-wellness/

Kodeljevo: https://www.sport-ljubljana.si/Kopalisce_Kodeljevo

Kolezija: https://www.sport-ljubljana.si/Kopalisce_Kolezija/

Laguna: https://laguna.si/?lang=en

Športna hiša Ilirija: http://www.plavalniklub-ilirija.si/index.php/kopalisce

Tivoli: https://www.sport-ljubljana.si/Park_Tivoli_Kopalisce_Tivoli/

CINEMA:

Dvor: https://www.kinodvor.org/en/programme/

Kinoteka: http://www.kinoteka.si/en/default.aspx

Kolosej: https://www.kolosej.si/

Komuna: https://www.kolosej.si/

LJUBLJANA ACTIVITIES:

Alternative Ljubljana: https://alternativetoursljubljana.com/

Bananaway SUP adventures: https://www.bananaway.si//sup-tours-slovenia/

Ljubljana Guides: https://www.ljubljanaguides.com/

Running Ljubljana: https://www.running-ljubljana.si/

Watermelon Ljubljana by bike: https://www.ljubljanabybike.com/

SLOVENIA INFO:

Adele in Slovenia: https://adeleinslovenia.com/

Faladur: http://www.faladur.si/?lang=en


USEFUL LINKS

Slocally: https://slocally.com/

Slotrips: http://www.slovenia-trips.com/

Wandering Helene: https://wanderinghelene.com/category/travel/slovenia/

Winestronaut: https://www.winestronaut.com/language/en/

Ljubljana drink & dine scene breakdown:

5-6 kg: https://www.facebook.com/gostilnica56kg/

Abi Falafel: http://www.falafel.si/

Altroke: https://www.facebook.com/altroke.si/

Argentino: http://argentino.si/slovenija/

Art Bread: https://www.facebook.com/artbread.si/

Atelje: https://www.restavracijaatelje.com/our-vision

Balthazar: https://www.visitljubljana.com/en/visitors/things-to-do/shopping/balthazar-the-wine-store/

Barbarella: http://www.barbarella.si/index.php?change_language=en

Barut: https://barutbrew.com/about-us/

Bevog: https://bevog.at/

Čad: http://www.gostilna-cad.si/english/index.htm

Cha: https://www.cha.si/

Čin čin: https://tobacna.eu/

Čokl: http://cafecokl.si/

Čompa: https://www.facebook.com/Čompa-209021859192246/

Craft room: https://www.facebook.com/craftroomslo/

Črno zrno: https://www.crnozrno.com/

Cubo: https://www.cubo.si/

Cutty Sark: https://www.cuttysarkpub.si/en/home/

Daktari: http://www.daktari.si/

Das ist Valter: http://dasistwalter.eu/en/

Dekanter: https://www.facebook.com/dekanter.wineboutique.ljubljana/

Deset v pol: http://10vpol.si/

Dobnik: https://www.cokoladniatelje.si/

Dobrote Dolenjske: http://www.dobrote-dolenjske.si/

Dobrote.si: https://www.google.com/maps/place/Delikatesa+Dobrote.

si/@46.0544703,14.5052962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x4765329d-

940cee4f:0x8a7913c9b77da1c5!8m2!3d46.0544703!4d14.5074849

Domača peka: https://www.facebook.com/nekajsladkega


#ljubljananjam

43

USEFUL LINKS

Dvorni bar: https://dvornibar.net/

E-vino: https://www.evino.si/en/

Fany in Mary: https://www.facebook.com/fanymary/

Fetiche: http://fetichepatisserie.com/

Figovec: https://figovec.si/

Forum: https://www.forumbarljubljana.com/

Gallus: https://www.facebook.com/pg/Čajnica-Gallus-514486435246510/

posts/

Gaudi: https://www.gaudi.si/

Gelateria Romantika: http://www.gelateria-romantika.si/

Gostilna dela: https://www.facebook.com/Gostilnadela/

Green Gold Brewing: https://www.greengoldbrewing.com/

Grič: http://www.gostilna-gric.si/

Gujžina: http://www.prekmurska-gostilna.si/

Hiša Franko: https://www.hisafranko.com/

Honey House: https://honeyhouse.si/en/

Hood burger: https://www.hoodburger.si/

Hopsbrew: http://hopsbrew.si/

Hopster: https://www.facebook.com/HopstersBrew/

Horacij: https://www.facebook.com/Horacij-local-food-drink-design-268947196545888/

Human fish: https://www.visitvrhnika.si/en/things-to-do/human-fish-brewery

Jakob Franc: https://www.facebook.com/gostilnaJakobFranc/

Jazz club Sv. Florijan: https://www.sveti-florijan.com/

Jazz Paradise club: http://jazzclubgajo.com/

JB: http://jb-slo.com/en/

Kam zvečer: https://www.kamzvecer.si/?lang=sl

Kavarna Tiskarna: https://www.facebook.com/kavarnaTiskarna/

Kevder: https://www.facebook.com/kevderbrezovica/

Kino Šiška: https://www.kinosiska.si/

Klobasarna: http://www.klobasarna.si/en

Kmečki hram: https://www.facebook.com/Kmečki-hram-gostilnapenzion-192318657451597/

Kolibri: https://www.kolibri-bar.com/

Krakovc: https://www.facebook.com/pivnicakrakovc/

Kralj žara: https://www.kraljzara.si/steak-smoke-house/

Kraševka: http://www.krasevka.si/

Krušič: http://www.mesarstvo-krusic.si/


USEFUL LINKS

Lajbah: http://www.lajbah.si/EN/

Lars & Sven: http://www.larsandsven.si/

Le Petit: http://www.lepetit.si/

Lepa Žoga: https://www.facebook.com/LepaZoga

Libanonske meze: http://www.libanonskemeze.si/

Lobik: http://lobikbrewery.com/home/

Lockal: https://www.facebook.com/Lockal.Petkovsek/

Loo-bla-nah: https://www.looblahnah.com/

LP Bar: http://www.lpbar.si/lp/faces/index.xhtml?id=1

Luda: http://www.luda.si/

Magda: https://barmagda.si/

Maharaja: https://www.maharaja.si/en/

Mala pražarna: https://www.facebook.com/malaprazarna/

Mala terasa: http://malaterasa.com/

Mala ulica: https://www.malaulica.si/en/

Mali grad: https://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/38934/

Manna: http://www.restavracija-manna.si/

Maxim: https://www.maxi.si/en/restaurant-maxim/

Mihovec: https://www.facebook.com/GostilnaMihovec/

Modern gallery: http://www.mg-lj.si/en/

Moderna: http://www.kavarnamoderna.si/

Moji štruklji Slovenije: https://www.moji-struklji.si/en/

Monstera: http://monsterabistro.si/en/

Most: http://www.restavracija-most.si/index.php/en/

Movia: http://www.movia.si/en/ljubljana-wine-bar-shop

Na gradu: http://www.nagradu.si/en/

Namaste express: http://www.restavracija-namaste.si/express/

National gallery: https://www.ng-slo.si/en/

Nostalgija: https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Pub/Nostalgija-vintage-cafe-1506410519577790/

Odprta kuhna: http://www.odprtakuhna.si/en/

Okusi Istre: https://www.facebook.com/okusiistre.ratosa/

Omnivar: https://omnivar.si/

Opera bar: http://www.opera-bar.com/eng/

Origano: https://www.origano.si/

Osem: http://pekarnaosem.com/

Osha: https://www.facebook.com/azijskibistroosha/

Parma: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Pizzeria-Parma/134328363316661


#ljubljananjam

45

USEFUL LINKS

Pelicon: https://www.pelicon.beer/

Petkovšek: https://www.facebook.com/CaffePetkovsek

Pinseria Rustika: https://www.facebook.com/PinsaRustika/

Pivoljub: https://www.pivoljub.si/

Pivovarna Laško in Union: http://www.pivovarnalaskounion.com/en/

Pop’s place: https://www.facebook.com/PopsPlaceBurgerBar/

Premier: https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Pub/Premier-Pub-195926524176595/

Pri kovaču: http://www.gostilna-pri-kovacu.si/

Pri škofu: https://www.facebook.com/gostilnica.priskofu

Pri stričku: http://www.pri-stricku.si/

Pri vodnjaku: https://www.facebook.com/Cokoladnica/

Primula: https://www.cajnica-primula.si/

Pritličje: http://www.pritlicje.si/

Pritličje: http://www.pritlicje.si/

Prulček: https://www.prulcek.si/

Ramen by Maru: https://www.facebook.com/ramenbymaru/

Res Dobr: https://www.facebook.com/resdobr.cankarjeva/

Reservoir dogs: https://reservoir-dogs.beer/?lang=en

Robba: https://robbarestaurant.com/

Romeo: http://caferomeo.si/

Sato Bento: http://japonska-hrana.si/

Shakira: https://www.google.si/maps/place/BAR+SHAKIRA+Lju-

bljana,+Zekira+Kavazovi%C4%87+s.p./@46.0512644,14.507757,15z/data-

=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x54e5bcb301845c8a!8m2!3d46.0512644!4d14.507757

Sir Williams pub: https://sirwilliamspub-eng.webs.com/

Skaručna: https://skarucna.si/en/

Slon: https://www.hotelslon.com/en-gb

Soline: http://www.soline.si/

Sorbara steak house: https://www.facebook.com/sorbarasteakhouse/

Špica caffe: http://www.kaval-group.si/SPICA_CAFFE,,kavarnica.htm

Štorija: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g274873-d11829462-

Reviews-Wine_Store_Storija-Ljubljana_Upper_Carniola_Region.html

STOW: https://www.stow.si/

Strelec: http://www.kaval-group.si/STRELEC,,restavracija.htm

Šuklje: http://winebar.suklje.com/

Šunknžemlja: https://sunknzemlja.si/

Sushimama: http://sushimama.si/


USEFUL LINKS

Sv. Florijan: https://www.sveti-florijan.com/

Tabar: http://www.tabar.si/

Taman: http://taman-organic.si/

Tokyo Piknik: http://www.tokyopiknik.com/

Tonight: https://tonight.viberate.com/ig

TOZD: https://m.facebook.com/TOZDbar/

Trappa: https://www.trappa.si/

Trta: https://www.trta.si/?lang=en

Urban roof: https://urbanroof.si/

Vander: http://vanderhotel.com/

Veganika: https://veganika.si/

Verace: https://www.verace.si/

Vino in ribe: https://m.facebook.com/vinoinribe/

Vizir: https://www.vizir.si/

Za popen’t: https://www.spottedbylocals.com/ljubljana/pivoteka-za-popent/

Žabar: http://prizabarju.si/en/

Zakladi Slovenije: https://www.facebook.com/Treasures.Of.Slovenija.Ljubljana/

Že v redu, Primož: http://www.pr-primozu.si/

Žmauc: http://barzmauc.sqwiz.si/sl-SI/14295/o-nas

Žmoht: https://www.facebook.com/zmoht/

Zrno do zrna: https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Specialty-Grocery-Store/Zrno-do-zrna-trgovina-z-ekološkimi-izdelki-259092567854366/

Zvezda: http://www.zvezdaljubljana.si/en/


#ljubljananjam

47

We hope you enjoy the yummy side of the Alps

with our help from LjubljanaYum team!

For more delicious experiences, join our food tours and keep

checking our website and social media accounts for latest

updates on Ljubljana foodie scene:

www.facebook.com/ljubljananjam

www.instagram.com/ljubljananjam


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