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Newsletter Of The<br />

Forty-Niners Chapter Of<br />

The Cadillac & LaSalle Club<br />

Joe Cutler – President<br />

E-mail: 49caddyman@gmail.com<br />

Art Gardner – Editor<br />

E-mail: agardner@gardnergroff.com<br />

Jay Friedman – Prez Emeritus<br />

Frank Lindauer – Editor Emeritus<br />

From the Prez— Vol. 11, No. 2, June <strong>2011</strong><br />

GET YOUR ’49 OUT FOR SPRING<br />

Greetings and salutations, my fellow „49ers. Supposedly, spring has sprung although we‟ve only had about 5 decent days so<br />

far here in the Northeast. It‟s time to get your vintage Cadillac(s) out of mothballs and ready for another season of cruise<br />

nights and car shows. I‟d like to take this opportunity to thank the many well-wishers who emailed me congratulations on my<br />

new “position” and offering words of encouragement. That was very thoughtful of you and much appreciated.<br />

I recently received a call from our friend and benefactor, Ed Cholakian, who owns All Cadillacs of the „40s and „50s. We had<br />

a pleasant chat and Ed extended his best wishes to our chapter on its 10 th anniversary. Ed has been very generous in the past,<br />

supporting the „49ers financially, and instructed me to contact him if we need anything. Unbeknownst to me, Ed is also an<br />

official distributor for Lynn Steele rubber products and has benevolently offered to extend a 20% discount to all members of<br />

the „49ers. So, if you need any Steele products, please purchase them through Ed. Thanks, Ed.<br />

About a month ago I added yet another ‟49 Cadillac to the “stable”. This one‟s a model 7533X 9-passenger Imperial Business<br />

Sedan, a.k.a. a limo. I named her The Countess. I plan to pen a “Pride and Joy” article on her in a future ’49 Times.<br />

The other two members of the “royal family” are The Duchess, a ‟49 Club Coupe, and The Baroness, a ‟49 model 6269 sedan.<br />

With Jay‟s blessing, I‟ve decided to add a couple of new features to our newsletter. One is “Welcome New Members”,<br />

fashioned after a feature that appears in each issue of The Self-Starter. The second, also starting this issue, is called “Birth<br />

Announcements”, which will welcome members‟ newest acquisitions. Please email me if you recently purchased a ‟48-49<br />

Cadillac! Be sure to provide the year and model, the name of the new “baby” if you name them as I do, and any other<br />

interesting factoids about the vehicle.<br />

Also in the works is a series of informational articles on the Hydro-lectric system which will start with the next issue of the „49<br />

Times. The series will begin with a general overview and operating principles of this system and will gradually deal with<br />

technical aspects, such as testing and trouble-shooting. Once again, I urge members to please submit items of interest for<br />

possible inclusion in future issues of the ’49 Times, such as Tech Tips, stories and pics of your Pride and Joy, and anything else<br />

relevant to our passion. We need your help; we can‟t do all this alone.<br />

Finally, I spoke with Nancy Book who, along with her husband Mike, is involved with the running of the CLC Grand National<br />

to be held in Dublin (near Columbus), Ohio August 10-13, <strong>2011</strong>. We now have a conference room reserved for a „49ers<br />

chapter meeting the afternoon of the judged car show, Saturday, August 13 th, from 3 to 4 pm. Details of what room we‟ll be in<br />

will be available at the registration desk and will also be posted on the CLC bulletin board. We need a volunteer or two to<br />

make a brief presentation, such as a tech session, “show and tell” or anything else you feel would be of interest to the ‟49ers.<br />

Please make every effort to attend this chapter meeting, even if it‟s just to stop in and say “hello”.<br />

Keep „Em Rolling,<br />

Joe


WELCOME NEW MEMBERS<br />

The „49ers Chapter extends its most cordial welcome to the following new members:<br />

Roy Asbahr Gresham, Oregon 1949 Coupe De Ville<br />

Carlos Duval Pirque, Chile 1949 6207 Club Coupe<br />

Bruce Duykers Sandpoint, Idaho 1949 6169 Sedan<br />

Tony Ebejer Victoria, Australia 1949 Convertible (RH Drive!), 1949 Club Coupe<br />

John Mollere Ponchatoula, Louisiana 1949 6207 Club Coupe<br />

Jon Yinger Brea, California Two (2) 1949 60 Specials<br />

BIRTH ANNOUNCEMENTS<br />

April 4 th : A bouncing baby girl (a very LARGE one at that!) was delivered on this date to Joe Cutler, of Douglas, Mass.<br />

Named The Countess, she is a 1949 model 7533X 9-passenger Imperial Business Sedan. Dad and daughter are doing fine.<br />

April: A new baby, a 1949 model 6169 4-door sedan, was delivered to Mr. and Mrs. Bruce Duykers of Sandpoint, Idaho. This<br />

is the proud parents‟ first Cadillac and they‟re enthralled with Her / Him?.<br />

Congratulations on the new arrivals.<br />

IT WORKS FOR ME: 8 VOLTS SOLVES THE 6 VOLT STARTING PROBLEMS<br />

By Dick DeVito<br />

After reading the article in the March ‟11 Times on 6 volt battery problems, I thought I‟d share with everyone how I solved the<br />

problem. I put in an 8 volt battery. Everything stays the same. The voltage regulator is re-set to 8.6 volts, which is enough to<br />

do the job. All the bulbs are ok and when I tell her to start it sounds just like a 12 volt system. I had the same problem on a<br />

1948 Lincoln V12 which 8 volts fixed. I‟m sure there will be much controversy, but it works for me. RADSR@PNPCO.COM<br />

DROOPING DRIVER’S DOOR HANDLE REDUX<br />

By Jay Friedman<br />

We‟ve touched upon this problem in past issues of the Times, but there‟s always new information coming to hand. Drooping<br />

door handles, particularly that of the driver‟s door which gets more use, is an annoying problem on ‟48 and ‟49 Cadillacs.<br />

Referring to the photo on the next page of a front latch, it is caused by the door handle‟s square steel shaft that goes inside the<br />

door to enter the square opening in a softer pot metal piece in the latch called the tumbler, indicated by Arrow A.


1948 -1949 CADILLAC FRONT DOOR LATCH<br />

Over the years, constant use causes the square opening in the tumbler to become partially rounded, resulting in the weight of<br />

the handle causing it to droop. (Arrow B points to the hole in the tumbler for the door handle set screw and Arrow C to the<br />

lock plate controlled by the outside key lock.)<br />

There are several fixes, as set forth in the next paragraph, all of which, unfortunately, require removing the door panels and<br />

getting into the innards of the door. Though this is a lengthy job, as lots of screws must be unscrewed and lots of parts<br />

removed, unless you have to deal with taking apart the door latch itself it is not technically difficult. (The larger arrows in the<br />

photo point to two difficult-to-deal-with springs in the mechanism that must be removed and replaced when taking apart the<br />

latch.) Note that convertibles and Coupe de Villes have different door latches than club coupes and sedans. The above photo<br />

comes from the 1948 Fisher "C" Body Manual for Cadillacs and Oldsmobile 98s, which has excellent, well written, illustrated<br />

step-by-step procedures for doing this type of work. They can usually be found on Ebay and I suggest you buy one.<br />

1. The best fix is to find another door latch in better or new condition. This way you avoid taking apart the latch which, as<br />

mentioned above, can be tricky. I once lucked out at a flea market and found a brand new '49 Buick driver's door latch for a<br />

club coupe (such as mine) or a sedan. 1949 Buick Supers and Roadmasters as well as '48 and 49 Oldsmobile 98s used the<br />

same door latch as '48 and 49 Cads. In my experience Buick and Olds parts frequently sell for less than the identical Cadillac<br />

parts, so you can try dealers that sell stuff for those cars. I was recently told that in the 1948 version of the latch the tumbler is<br />

made of bronze, which is much more durable than the‟49 pot metal tumbler.<br />

2. If the car is a convertible or Coupe de Ville, '49er Ron Brooks of Twin Lake MI makes a sturdier tumbler to replace the<br />

original pot metal tumbler, which he sells for $125 or so. His phone number is 231-821-2812.<br />

3. For other models of ‟48 or '49 Cadillac, All Cadillacs of the „40s and „50s www.allcads.com sells a sturdier replacement<br />

tumbler for $50 or so.<br />

While both of the above are excellent replacement parts which are far superior to the original part, as mentioned above<br />

removing the latch from the door then installing the new part is not easy and requires much patience.


GEORGE RUBENSON’S SERIES 61 SEDAN AT HOME IN SALISBURY, MARYLAND<br />

’49 CADILLAC DIMENSIONS II<br />

Chapter member Robert Robin sent us a series of engineering drawings a ‟49 Cadillac Club Coupe exterior dimensions in<br />

inches (not to scale), the front view of which appeared in the June 2007 Times. Below is a left side view.


GETTING YOUR BRAKES’ HYDRAULIC SYSTEM IN SHAPE<br />

OR<br />

STOPPING IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN GOING<br />

By Art Gardner<br />

Many of you are aware of the tendency these days to "update" the car's brakes with disk brakes in an effort to make the car<br />

safer. In my opinion, the biggest danger with the original 1949 Cadillac brakes is the lack of a second circuit, not raw stopping<br />

power. Up through 1961, I think, the brakes were all single circuit. Certainly in 1949 they were single circuit. That means<br />

that if you pop a line or hose or wheel cylinder anywhere on the car, you will lose ALL brakes all at once. Dual circuit brakes,<br />

which I think started with the 1962 Cads, eliminate that risk and leave you with either front or rear brakes in the event of a<br />

calamity. Many people will say, but "hey, I have never had a problem, so why change anything." But when you do have a<br />

problem, this is a BIG problem.<br />

So, the most important thing, in my opinion is to make sure the original parts are PERFECT, especially the metal lines. Brake<br />

fluid is hydrophilic, meaning it attracts moisture (right out of the air). The water that gets in the lines in this way rusts the<br />

metal lines from the inside out. They can look perfectly normal in a visual inspection, but be rusting away on the inside. One<br />

day a pinhole pops though and you lose all brake pressure. This happens more regularly than you might think, which is why<br />

the government eventually outlawed single circuit brakes. This fluid-borne rust is also how your wheel cylinders and master<br />

cylinder get pitted. The fix is to replace the plain metal lines with stainless steel lines. Put on all new hoses. Sleeve the wheel<br />

cylinders and the master cylinder with brass or stainless steel. Flush out the brake fluid and replace it with new fluid every 2-3<br />

years. Do that and the original drum brakes should be safe for a long time!<br />

If you want to make them even safer, you can put in a dual circuit master cylinder. It takes some extra work and plumbing, but<br />

to me it is worth it for the additional peace of mind. This is what I did with my last „49 6107 Club Coupe and am doing it to<br />

my new „49 coupe. I developed a nice kit for installing such in the original mounting place on the frame, so everything looks<br />

great and works correctly. I haven't worked out how to do this on my 1956 Series 60 Fleetwood, but I am still noodling on it<br />

(as there is precious little room at the front of the 56 power brake booster for a dual circuit master).<br />

I tried a disk brake "kit" on my last 49 and it was a disaster. I never did get it to work right, so I gave up and went back to the<br />

reliable drum brakes (augmented by my dual circuit master kit using a modern Wilwood dual circuit master).<br />

I drive my old Cadillac's as daily transportation. Right now, I use the '49 fastback in the cold months (it is black and has no air<br />

conditioning) and use the '56 60S in the warm months (its factory air works great). So I am relying on my good old drum<br />

brakes every day to stop my cars and keep me safe.<br />

If you use the car only occasionally, such as for club events a few times per year, you might feel less motivated to be so finicky<br />

about brakes and might be tempted to do the minimum, instead of the maximum, in restoring the brakes. I can understand that<br />

tendency. But keep in mind that, as the song says, rust never sleeps and the corrosion inside the lines and the cylinders<br />

continues whether you use the car or not. So you can still have a safety issue with the brakes, even if you only use the car a<br />

few times per year.<br />

If you keep the single master, but make the entire system perfect, you should be okay. A dual circuit master is a nice peace of<br />

mind as an extra safety measure, but you should be okay without it if everything else is right.<br />

TECH TIP: ’49 CADILLAC SPARK PLUGS<br />

Early ‟49 Cadillacs used AC 48 spark plugs, a very “hot” plug. The difference between hot and cold spark plugs is how<br />

quickly the plug body dissipates heat. Hot spark plugs dissipate heat slowly, keeping its temperature higher, which allows the<br />

plug to burn off harmful carbon deposits quickly. They are used in cars that are usually driven slowly and in stop and go<br />

traffic, whose motors frequently don‟t get fully warmed up. When designating the spark plug for the new „49, Cadillac<br />

engineers thought most of them would be used under such conditions, but apparently this turned out not to be the case as the<br />

following 1949 Cadillac factory “Serviceman‟s Supplement” explains:


So, to be absolutely authentic either AC 48 or 46-5 spark plugs can be used in early motors, but only 46-5s should be used in<br />

motors from number 31,613. Nonetheless, NOS AC 48 plugs seem to be more easily found today. Also, your motor may need<br />

a hotter plug anyway if you don‟t drive much at high speeds, so you may want to stick with them. And, between us „49ers,<br />

how many cars show judges would know this obscure factoid anyway?<br />

MYSTERY: WHY DID ART GARDNER (2 ND FROM RIGHT) NEED 7 SUPERVISORS<br />

WHEN HE RECENTLY PUT FLUID IN A ‘49’s REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS?


ONE PAGE MINI SHOP MANUAL<br />

By Jay Friedman<br />

Speaking of spark plugs, have you ever been engrossed in cleaning them and when it came time to set their gaps could not for<br />

the life of you remember how many thousandths of an inch was correct? A ‟49 shop manual has all this sort of information,<br />

but that means getting out the manual and turning pages with your greasy hands until you come to the right place. Why not<br />

have all your „49‟s specs and similar info set forth on one or two pages you can quickly refer to? I recently came upon the<br />

following sheet which has most of everything you need to know in the way of specifications when working on a ‟49 and it is<br />

now posted on a wall in my garage. Cut it out and hang it up if you think you‟ll find it useful too.


Joe Cutler<br />

108 Monroe Street<br />

East Douglas MA 01516

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