March 2010

Newsletter Of The
Forty-Niners Chapter Of
The Cadillac & LaSalle Club
Jay Friedman – President
E-mail: jaysfriedman@yahoo.com
Art Gardner – Editor
E-mail: agardner@gardnergroff.com
Frank Lindauer – Editor Emeritus
Frank Stagnitto – Member-at-Large
From the Prez— Vol. 10, No. 1, March 2010
FORTY NINERS CHAPTER BEGINS ITS 10 TH YEAR & ’49 CADS THEIR 61 ST
The volume number above says it all. Old timers may remember that we started out with a 4-page newsletter and 80 members
back in March 2001. As of March 2010 we have about 240 members in the US, Canada, Australia, Denmark, Germany,
Ireland, Italy, Scotland and Spain. California has 47 members, the most among US states, and Texas is in 2 nd place with 16.
We have several good technical articles in this issue and photos of members‟ cars. If you send in a photo of your Pride and Joy
and don‟t see it in print for some time, don‟t despair. We get lots of photos from members and yours will eventually appear.
IN JANUARY POST CARDS WERE SENT OUT TO ALL MEMBERS WHO OWE DUES FOR 2010. IF YOU
RECEIVED SUCH A CARD AND HAVE NOT SENT A CHECK FOR $8 PAYABLE TO JAY FRIEDMAN TO 1530
SEPTEMBER CHASE, DECATUR GEORGIA 30033, PLEASE DO SO NOW OR YOU WILL BE FACING THE
UNWELCOME PROSPECT THAT THIS WILL BE THE LAST ISSUE OF THE TIMES THAT YOU’LL GET.
Jay
MORE POWER, MR. SCOTT
By Art Gardner
Your 1949 Cadillac has 160 horsepower, right? Well, maybe, maybe not! The official published number is 160 hp, but what
does it mean, how was it measured and how does it stack up to "real world" horsepower? Was Cadillac being overly optimistic
to sell cars? Does anyone really think that the cars rolling off the line had 160 hp hitting the ground at the rear wheels?
In the early „50's, hot rodders were drooling over the Cadillac 331 OHV V8 as the most powerful motor available (though
expensive for many). A 1951 hot rod magazine reported that the bare „49 Cadillac engine (with no generator, water pump, fuel
pump, air cleaner, muffler, etc) produced 160 gross BHP at 3800 rpm, the same number Cadillac published but without
explaining where it came from. The magazine also reported that with all accessories but the transmission the engine developed
141 net HP at 3400 rpm. Automatic transmissions and the rest of the driveline consume 15-30% of the power available before
reaching the rear wheels, while stick shift transmissions consume less, maybe saving 5-10%. Using 20-25% as a rough
guess for losses, on a stock Hydramatic „49 the 141 flywheel HP was probably only 105-113 HP at the rear wheels, which is
the horsepower you can actually use and feel while driving. (Modern automatics are more efficient, due to lock-up torque
converters, etc.)
By the way, the 46.5 "taxable horsepower" mentioned in the official published specifications is a theoretical calculation, taking
into account the number of cylinders and the bore but not the stroke, and was used primarily in Britain to determine car taxes.
Another measurement is "torque", which is the twisting power of the engine. It is torque that you actually feel when you step
on the gas. One way to think about torque is that it is pure pulling power, while horsepower also takes into account
engine speed. A chassis dynamometer is used to measure torque directly and then a horsepower figure is calculated from
the torque number (HP=Torque x RPM/5250). Above 5250 rpm, the calculated horsepower will be a larger number than the
torque number and the opposite below 5250 rpm (ignoring the units). At 5250 rpm, the horsepower and torque curves cross.
The published number for torque on 1949 Cadillac engines is 312 pound feet of torque at 1800 rpm (the calculated HP at this
torque measurement would be 107 hp).

I recently tested my engine‟s performance. I have the (numbers-matching) early version 1949 Cadillac engine (two-bolt valve
covers, spring loaded camshaft) in my 6107 Club Coupe with a few minor changes. First of all, when rebuilding the engine,
we did a high-precision balancing and "blueprinting" job to make the engine as smooth and efficient as possible. Second, the
engine was bored out 0.030". Third, I‟m using 12 volts, a Pertronix electronic ignition module inside the stock distributor,
electronic fuel injection (throttle body) atop the stock intake manifold and a slightly larger exhaust pipe (2-1/4" vs. 2"). But the
engine is still using the small valve 1949 heads with single exhaust. Below is a printout of the horsepower and torque numbers,
tested on a local chassis dynamometer (measured at the rear wheels). These numbers are the net numbers after losses by my
transmission, rear end, water pump, exhaust, AC compressor, power steering pump, etc.
My peak horsepower number of 126 hp shows a 12%-20% increase over stock, while my peak torque of 232 lb-ft at 2200 rpm
is 74% of the published gross torque number of 312 lb-feet at 1800 rpm. Of course, the published torque number would need
to be reduced by some percentage to estimate what the torque would have been at the rear wheels and with the engine equipped
with normal accessories. If we reduce the published gross torque number to the same extent as the published horsepower
number, the net torque at the rear wheels for '49 Cadillac rolling off the assembly line might have been around 206-220 lb-feet,
instead of the gross number of 312 lb-ft. My measured 232 lb-ft of peak torque fits right in with that (a 6%-13% increase).
MOTOR TREND’S CAR OF THE YEAR
By Tom Musson
For more than 60 years Motor Trend Magazine has been the "Bible" of auto publications. In 1949 they started their annual
practice of doing a multi-page spread on their "Car of the Year". The first was the 1949 Cadillac, due primarily to its post-war
styling and, more importantly, the fact it was powered by a new OHV V-8 engine and an improved Hydra-matic transmisison.
The magazine has decided to do a commemorative on the 1949 Cadillac and they have chosen my 49 Coupe as the featured
car. Obviously, I'm excited about this and had a full day of shooting at the Muckenthaler Museum in Fullerton, Calif. The
cover story was in the January 2010 issue. Below is my own photo, taken unfortunately during a drizzly day in 2009.
TOM MUSSON’S 6207 CLUB COUPE, REPRESENTING THE 1949 MOTOR TREND CAR OF THE YEAR

POWER WINDOW SWITCHES
By Jack Hoffman
After 60 years a common problem is that the window switch action is either erratic or not-at-all. This was the problem I found
when restoring my ‟49 Coupe de Ville. After searching for NOS parts, I decided that there must be a way to rebuild them.
Start by depressing the four spring retainers and pushing them out to where they can be pulled out, as in the photo below.
With the switch body out, carefully push the plastic pivot pin out. This pin can be easily broken, so be gentle with it. With the
switch apart, the components can be cleaned of the dirt and corrosion. Re-assemble with the curved spring contacts as shown
in the photo below. Re-assembly is simple and locked in place by inserting the four spring clips.
A ’49 CADILLAC IN ITALY
By Luca Marzana, Lazzerretto, Italy
My passion for Cadillacs started in 1979 when as an exchange-student living for a year in Albuquerque, NM I was impressed
by these big and excessive cars, so different from the little cars which I was accustomed to see here in Italy. A few years ago I
decided to go for one of those big cars which, possibly, could to take me back to my youth. So I bought a ‟76 Calais Sedan.
Starting from then my tastes in Cadillacs changed a little. Probably due to the fact I was getting older, I was more attracted by
older cars like those of the 50‟s. I thought about importing one from the US, like many people in Italy do but, as you may
understand, this is not cheap at all. So I was calmly waiting for the right time to start such an operation. But….…….

Some months ago, almost casually, I got onto the website of a sport cars dealer in the north of Italy, because a friend told me he
was selling something I could be interested in, and I saw her: a 1949 Series 62 Sedan, VIN 496204825. Not in good condition,
because she was abandoned for some years, but almost everything was there. What can I say? I saw the beautiful huge split
windshield, the 40‟s body lines and I realized that in some ways the 50‟s cars were even too modern for me with their
excessive Cadillac lines that came in the fifties and sixties. Instead this one was, at least for me, much classier and in some
ways “severe”. After talking with the dealer we came to an agreement and the car was delivered to me a few months ago.
LUCA MARZANA’S 6269 IN ITALY
I knew she was in need of complete restoration but didn‟t expect that even the engine was not in good working order, with
seized rings and some valves not closing correctly. In a few days the engine will be taken out of the car and rebuilt. Inside, the
car looks original, besides some dash painting which I am not sure is correct, along with lots of things that have to be verified.
The car came in Cypress Green Poly, although during her life she had been repainted. There are some parts still in the original
color like the firewall and wheels which, compared to the color data sheet, look brighter in color.
At this point you may think “wouldn‟t it be cheaper buying a car in better condition from the United States?” Surely, this car
will cost me more money in restoration, but what would have been the fate of the old lady if I didn‟t rescue her? Are there
many people willing to spend a fortune restoring it? I think she would have had a sad end. I hear of many people “fond of old
cars” thinking with their wallet instead of the heart. A car can be an economic massacre for you by restoring it, but when you
see something which moves your feelings so much, well, any consideration of money will fail. So it was for me.
Anyway, it looks like if this car has a quite interesting history. I obtained its build sheet from GM Heritage and was able to get
in touch with a couple of previous owners. When new, the car was shipped to Ecuador. There is some darkness until 1976,
when she was imported in Italy. I think that‟s all for now. Will keep you updated as restoration will proceed.
ANOTHER TECH TIP FROM …….
By Joe Cutler
If doing a detailed restoration on your ‟49, you‟ll probably want to remove the hood hinge assembly so that not only can you
blast and paint it and the hood springs, but so you can paint the firewall. The four holes on each side, through which go the

large bolts and flat washers to attach this unit to the firewall, were purposely made larger to make a fair amount of adjustment
possible. Thus, it can be tricky to re-install this assembly in the same position it was originally and, once the hood springs have
been re-installed, virtually impossible because of the tremendous spring pressure. I‟ve devised a solution to this problem that
I‟ve used on several restorations that is not only easy, but foolproof and very successful. This procedure should be followed, of
course, only if your hood fits and was aligned properly in the first place.
First, remove the hood. Then remove both hood springs. (In the next installment I‟ll write up my method for removing and reinstalling
them.) Now take a 6-point socket (½ inch drive recommended) with a 3 inch extension and ratchet, and remove only
one of the four large bolts and thick flat washer that attach the hinge assembly to the firewall. Now center-punch a mark close
to the bolt hole and drill a 1/8 inch (0.3175 cm.) diameter hole through the hood hinge bracket and through the firewall at this
location. Be sure this 1/8 inch hole close enough to the hole so it will be covered later by the thick washer upon re-installation.
Now re-install this bolt and the flat washer and tighten securely. Repeat this step on the remaining 3 large bolts, doing only
one at a time. (See sketch below.)
When re-installing the hood hinge assembly, you simply slide a 1/8 inch (0.3175 cm.) drill bit through each hole previously
drilled, then re-install each large bolt and flat washer one at a time. The hood hinge assembly will be in the exact location it
was originally. IMPORTANT NOTE: When removing the hood hinge assembly, be sure to place your hand under each large
bolt as you remove it, as often times there are one or more shims installed behind the hinge assembly at the factory. Label each
shim so you can re-install it in the same position.
I‟ve also used this technique of drilling “alignment holes” before removing doors. As long as the doors fit properly originally,
using this method they will fit properly when re-installing. This saves untold time and aggravation.
JAMES McCARTY & SIGNIFICANT OTHER? WITH HIS 1948 6269 4-DOOR SEDAN IN S. DENNIS, MASS.
‘48 Cads Have The Same Body As A 49, But A 346 Flathead V8 Engine And A Different Grill And Dash

A PRESERVATION TIP
By Jim Elliott
There is a drain hole at the bottom of each end of the rear ‟48-‟49 Cadillac bumper where an upright brace is welded on the
inside of the bumper (by the large cheek of the upright under the tail light). The hole, the size of your finger, is not round but
rather of an odd shape as it is formed by the brace welded to the bottom of the bumper. It is apparently to drain out the water
that will collect inside of the mounting brace that is welded to the back of the bumper at that point. If you lay on the ground
and look under the rear bumper you will see what I am talking about.
Well, when I took off my rear bumper for plating I noticed that a large nut was wedged in one of the holes. When I tried to pop
it out with a screwdriver it would not budge. When I tried a long drift punch and a hammer I got a large amount of small rocks
and sand. Both sides were plugged up. I had to put the bumper in my sand blaster to really clean the area up for plating and
got enough sand and rocks to fill two coke cans. My suggestion is that when you wash your car you should give these two
holes a very generous spray of high pressure water. Incidentally, I have wondered why the „49s I have seen in junk yards have
rusted out rear bumpers; now I know.
1949 SERIES 62 4-DOOR SEDAN BELONGING TO JOHN WASHBURN OF ELIZABETH, COLORADO
DID YOU KNOW THAT…..
By Jay Friedman
…your „49‟s rear axle housing has a built-in air vent in the case? I certainly didn‟t.
Some background: When I bought my 6107 25 years ago the differential pinion seal was leaking. The mechanic who replaced
it looked everywhere on the axle housing and could not find a vent to the atmosphere. In addition to the motor, he said these
were necessary on all housings that contained a rotating mechanism in gear oil, including the rear end and transmission, to
prevent oil pressure building up which can cause leaks and the oil to foam (which reduces its ability to lubricate). To rectify
this he drilled and threaded a hole above the right-side spring and screwed in a small venting valve he took from a junked car.
I had no further problems in this area until recently, when my rear axle housing started leaking gear oil on the right side at the
junction of the axle housing and the passenger‟s side brake backing plate. (There‟s a special channel at that point to direct
away from the brake shoes any gear oil leaking past the axle seal.) It was a small leak, but it became very annoying to see it
whenever I climbed under the rear of car for any reason. I replaced the axle seal, and even installed a spare axle shaft on the
assumption that might help, but the leak persisted.
Thinking the leak might be due to a crack or flaw in the axle housing, I bought a used one from ‟49er Joe Cutler and started the
formidable task of removing and replacing it. However, while cleaning up my new purchase I noticed a slit-like hole on the
upper right of the back of the round part of the housing, which is the long-lost air vent. (See arrow in photo on next page.)

I then checked out the same hole on the housing still in my car to find that it was barely visible and completely clogged with
dirt. I cleaned out the hole with a small knife which stopped the leak. Problem solved.