Men's Grooming guideline formulations - Kao Chemicals Europe

Because men care 

about their personal care 

Shampoos 

Bath gels 

Facial cleansers 

Shaving products 

Facial creams 

Aftershaves 

Body milks 

MEN’S 

GROOMING 

Formulations Guideline 

The technology of KAO’s surfactants applied to Personal Care products

A whole new world ahead of HIM 

Men's grooming is one of the most dynamic categories within cosmetics 

and toiletries. Some factors may explain this changing market: 

First, the not-so-new metrosexual trend appeared in the last decade and 

has evolved and diversified into more exotic concepts like “ecosexual” or 

“retrosexual”. 

Second, especially in skin care, men’s products begin to mimic the 

product types seen in women's market which make them easier to identify. 

Third and last, great efforts to understand and adequate formulations to 

men’s physiology are being made and as a result, new products include those 

designed to care for specific areas of the body, make-up, tanning, anti-aging lines 

and so on. 

I. SHAMPOOS 

II. SHAVING 

PRODUCTS 

IV. SKIN CARE 

V. BATH GELS 

III. AFTERSHAVE 

It’s widely known that men and women have different skin although they 

share the same basic structure. The three main differences between them are 

firmness, thickness and sebaceous secretion. Men’s skin is around 25% thicker than 

women’s, which makes it more resistant and less affected by allergens or UV rays. 

Men’s skin also ages more slowly thanks to its firmness although the aging becomes 

abrupt at around 60. The secretion of more sebum for hormonal reasons 

moisturizes the skin but in excess, gives an undesirably unclean look and can worsen 

possible cases of dandruff. Furthermore, the cheeks and the neck skin are often dry 

and dehydrated due to shaving action. 

On the other hand, men’s preferences in personal care include simple, 

results-oriented, multipurpose and time-saving products that can make them look 

nice easily and that is what this formulation guideline is focused on. 

2

I. SHAMPOOS 

EMAL ® 270D 

Sodium Laureth Sulfate 

AKYPO ® FOAM RL 40 

Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate 

LEVENOL ® H&B 

Glycereth-2 Cocoate 

AMIDET ® N 

PEG-4 Rapeseedamide 

13.5 

5.0 

2.0 

1.5 

Trikenol 0.5 

Dow Corning 193 0.5 

Jaguar C-162 0.2 

EDTA.Na 4 0.2 

NaCl 1.2 

Isocil PC 

NaOH (10% solution) 

q.s. 

q.s. 

Deionized Water Up to 100% 

The two main concerns for a man regarding his hair are alopecia and 

dandruff. The first one is generated by an excess of testosterone and is very 

difficult to treat. The use of a very mild and nourishing shampoo with hair- 

fortifying components prevents or slows down the bitter process. Dandruff is 

caused by multiple factors, an important one 

being the excess of sebum in the scalp. An 

antidandruff shampoo must remove 

that sebum and hydrate the 

irritated area at the same time. 

2-in-1 ANTI-DANDRUFF ref. C-152 

These two anti-dandruff shampoos are based mostly on Sodium 

Laureth Sulfate (SLES) and three special co-surfactants: AKYPO® FOAM RL 40, 

LEVENOL® H&B and AMIDET® N. The first one is an ether carboxylate with 

anionic character like SLES but with enhanced properties: foam creaminess, 

cleansing effect and mildness. LEVENOL® H&B is a glycerine-derived 100% 

active surfactant that offers a highly moisturizing effect without 

compromising foamability and viscosity. Finally, AMIDET® N acts as a very 

mild thickener with solubilizing and foam boosting properties. 

Altogether, they create premium cost-effective anti-dandruff 

shampoos that will meet any man’s expectations. 

EMAL ® 270D 


AKYPO ® SOFT 100 BVC 


BETADET ® S-20 

Lauryl Hydroxysultaine 



14.3 

5.7 

5.0 

2.0 

Hair Loss Prevention 2.0 

Promois WJ 2.0 

pH modifier 

q.s. 

NaCl 2.5 

Isocil PC 

q.s. 


CLEAR ANTI-DANDRUFF - With Trikenol ref. C-201 

EMAL ® 270D 






AMIDET ® N 


TETRANYL ® U 

Undecylenamidopropyltrimonium 

Methosulfate 

DANOX ® PL-10 

Pearlizing Blend 

FORTIFYING - With Hair Loss Prevention ref. C-200 

As seen above, LEVENOL® H&B provides the moisturizing 

properties while BETADET® S-20 helps boost foaming and guarantees good 

cold stability. AKYPO® SOFT 100 BVC, being the mildest of the AKYPO® 

range, lowers the irritation level of the formula even further. Special 

fortifying ingredients are added to this optimum surfactant system to 

create a high-quality shampoo with an outstanding performance. 

13.5 

5.0 

2.0 

1.0 

0.5 

4.0 

Zinc Pyrithione 2.0 

Carbopol ETD 2020 0.5 

Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350cst 0.5 

Ucare LR400 0.2 

EDTA.Na 4 0.2 


NaCl 

Triethanolamine 

Isocil PC 

q.s. 

q.s. 

q.s. 


3

II. 

SHAVING PRODUCTS 

OXIDET ® DMCLD 

Cocamine Oxide 

GLC 99% 

Glycerine 

BETADET ® HR-50K 

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 



KALCOL ® 6098 

Cetyl Alcohol 

3.0 

3.0 

1.0 

0.5 

0.5 

Stearic Acid 7.5 

Triethanolamine 3.5 

Abil B88183 1.0 

Additives 

q.s. 

Preservative 

q.s. 


SHAVING FOAM ref. C-046 

Glycerine-based shaving foams are designed to give a soft feeling 

during shaving and help the blades to do their job. This formulation 

incorporates LEVENOL® H&B, a surfactant with foam-boosting and 

moisturizing properties even at low rates. This simple and cost-effective 

formula, with the aid of a propellant, creates consistent foam which is 

easily spreadable over the face and leaves skin feeling silky. 

EMAL ® 270D 




AMIDET ® N 


BETADET ® HR 




13.9 

10.0 

5.0 

13.3 

2.0 

Antil 141 Liquid 4.0 

Abil B88183 0.5 

Sweet Almond Oil 0.5 

Panthenol 0.4 

Aloe Vera Gel 0.2 

Glydant Plus Liquid 0.05 


FOAMING GEL ref. C-196 

Foaming gels are an alternative to shaving foams or creams. The 

first ones lather when they are gently rubbed with the hands or with a 

hand against the consumer’s face, while the others come directly from the 

container as foam. Although it’s normally a personal choice, gels tend to be 

thicker and the foam formed is denser. This formula corresponds to a clear 

viscous foaming gel that will provide creamy, thick foam, leaving at the 

same time a premium skin sensation before and after shaving. 

GLC 99% 

Glycerine 

EMAL ® 270D 


BETADET ® HR 






10.0 

9.3 

6.0 

5.0 

3.0 


Sorbitol 0.5 

Glydant Plus Liquid 

q.s. 


NON-FOAMING GEL ref. C-192 

Highly-concentrated non-foaming gels are on the rise thanks to 

their multiple advantages like transparency, durability and skin sensation. 

The first property makes shaving much easier due to the complete visibility 

of the remaining beard, thus preventing skin irritation and increasing 

shaving accuracy. 

The co-surfactants used in this formulation are among the mildest 

ones in our portfolio, making the final product suitable for daily use. 

4

III. AFTERSHAVE 

EMANON ® HE 

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 

FINDET ® ARH/52 

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 

2.0 

0.5 

Ethanol 60.0 



Historically, aftershaves were no more than cologne with a 

reduced fragrance level. Nowadays they have evolved into more complex 

products but keeping the same goals and basic functions. 

TRANSPARENT LOTION ref. C-197 

This formulation can be considered a standard and cost-effective 



GLC 99% 

Glycerine 

KAOPAN ® 

SP-010 

Sorbitan Oleate 

5.0 

2.0 

1.5 

Ethanol 15 

Jojoba Oil 3.0 

Capric/Caprylic 

Triglycerides 

2.0 

Isopropyl Myristate 2.0 

Mineral Oil 1.0 


Tocopheryl Acetate 0.5 

Carbopol Ultrez 21 0.3 

NaOH (10%) 0.2 


q.s. 


aftershave with special ingredients such as Aloe Vera that has a soothing 

and wound-healing effect, FINDET® ARH/52 that helps solubilize the 

perfume added to the formula and EMANON® HE, a re-fatting and 

conditioning agent. 

REFRESHING EMULSION ref. C-198 

Aside from the calming effects, protective formulations should 

also be considered given the rising importance of skin health among men. 

The composition of this emulsion includes a relatively low amount of 

alcohol to give a refreshing touch and minimize the use of preservative. 

The fatty phase is composed of basic oils that act as re-fatting agents and 

normalize the skin’s damaged barrier function. 

LEVENOL® H&B, as the main surfactant, gives a pleasant feeling to 

the skin and helps spread the oils without leaving the typical tacky 

sensation of other greasy products. 



GLC 99% 

Glycerine 

KAOPAN ® 


SP-010 

KAOPAN ® TW S120 

Polysorbate-60 

2.0 

2.0 

0.74 

0.42 

Jojoba Oil 3.0 

Capric/Caprylic 

Triglycerides 

2.0 





Tocopheryl Acetate 0.5 



q.s. 


ALCOHOL-FREE EMULSION ref. C-199 

The next step in the evolution of aftershave products is the 

complete elimination of the alcohol content, to prevent potential dryness 

of the skin and reduce the stinging associated with their use. 

5

IV. SKIN CARE 

EMAL ® 

270D 


BETADET ® 

HR 


LEVENOL ® 

EXCEPARL ® HO 

Cetyl Octanoate 

EMANON ® 

EV-E 

Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate 

KAOPAN ® 


SP-O10 

8.0 

5.0 

1.2 



NaOH (10%) 

H&B 



11.6 

10.0 

4.0 

Sorbitol 3.0 


Citric Acid 

q.s. 

NaCl 0.2 

Isocil PC 

q.s. 


q.s. 

q.s. 

Perfume Soft Skin SK 130211 0.3 


Market studies indicate that skin care is the most dynamic 

subsector in men’s grooming. Along with the introduction of mass market 

products targeting the average man eager to improve his image without 

spending too much, products for specific parts of the body and with special 

properties are on the rise thanks to their good acceptance. 

MOISTURIZING FACIAL CLEANSER ref. C-203 

Although men’s habits are changing, most men don’t want to 

spend much time in the bathroom. So, practical and multipurpose products 

are highly valued by them and this Facial Cleanser is one such product. 

LEVENOL® H&B provides a moisturizing effect and, in conjunction with 

BETADET® HR, reduces the irritation of the formula while maintaining its 

cleansing power. Aloe Vera Gel gives the final touch with its multiple 

beneficial properties. 

BODY MILK – Cold Process ref. C-145 

Following the easy-to-make and easy-to-apply idea, the 

production of this Body Milk is very simple even at low temperature thanks 

to the incorporation of EMANON® EV-E. This ethoxylated glycerine 

derivative shows a very high HLB value (HLB ≈ 17), which makes it an 

excellent emulsifier of hydrophobic components. 

LEVENOL ® 

H&B 


EXCEPARL ® 

Cetyl Octanoate 

KAOPAN ® 

Polysorbate-20 

KAOPAN ® 


HO 

TW L120 

SP-O10 

5.0 

3.0 

1.5 

1.5 

Caprylic/Capric TRG 3.0 


Dow Corning 200 Fluid 

100cst 

2.0 

Parsol MCX 1.5 


NaOH (10%) 


q.s. 

q.s. 


FACIAL CREAM ref. C-204 

Thanks to the addition of two KAO 

emollients, LEVENOL® H&B and EXCEPARL® 

HO, this formula is easy to spread when 

the facial cream is applied. Men tend to 

reject “heavy” creams because they are 

not easily absorbed by the skin and leave a 

feeling of wearing an “oily mask”. To avoid 

this, the quantity of oils is minimized in 

order to give the smooth sensation without 

the drawbacks mentioned above. 

6

V. BATH GELS 

EMAL ® 270D 


AKYPO ® SOFT 45 HP 






AMIDET ® N 


11.5 

10.0 

4.2 

2.0 

2.0 

NaCl 0.6 

Citric Acid 

q.s. 

Isocil PC 

q.s. 


When looking for a bath gel, the male consumer will be interested 

in three main aspects of it (apart from subjective inputs like fragrance and 

packaging): cost-effectiveness being the number one aspect most times, 

followed by moisturizing properties that reduce the dryness of the skin 

after showering, and mildness, especially for those with sensitive skin or 

even skin conditions. 

STANDARD ref. C-202 

EMAL ® 270D 


BETADET ® HR 








AMIDET ® N 


DANOX ® PL-10 

Pearlizing Agent 

12.4 

5.0 

3.0 

3.0 

2.0 

1.0 

3.0 

Merquat 5210 0.5 

Perfume 

q.s. 

Citric Acid (10%) 

q.s. 

NaCl 

q.s. 

Isocil PC 

q.s. 


MOISTURIZING ref. C-097 

Working with these premises, three formulations have been 

developed to emphasize each of the properties mentioned. The Standard 

Bath Gel, while moisturizing and non irritant, is designed to be efficient 

and affordable at the same time. 

The main objective of the second formulation is to provide a 

pleasant moisturizing effect and includes DANOX® PL-10, a pearlizing agent 

that gives a top-notch look to the Bath Gel and helps increase the viscosity 

of the final product. 

BETADET ® HR 




AMIDET ® N 


Citric Acid (10%) 

Perfume 

Isocil PC 

13.3 

11.3 

2.9 

q.s. 

q.s. 

q.s. 


Last but not least, the extra-mild formulation is based on AKYPO® 

FOAM RL 40, a premium cost-effective anionic surfactant that is highly 

suitable for replacing other, more irritant anionic surfactants. AMIDET® N 

gives the necessary viscosity without increasing irritation levels and 

enhances the foaming performance. 

EXTRA MILD - For Sensitive Skin ref. C-181 

7

Mission 

Our Mission is “to strive for the wholehearted satisfaction 

and enrichment of the lives of people globally” through 

the Company’s core domain of value added chemicals. 

Fully committed to this mission, all members of the Kao 

Group work together with passion to provide products of 

excellent value created from the customer’s perspective. 

In so doing, we “share joy with the customer”. 

Vision 

We aim to be “a global group of companies that is closest 

to the customer in each market”, earning the respect and 

trust of all stakeholders and contributing towards the 

sustainable development of society. 

Trademark Chemical Description Appearance (20ºC) Active Matter (%) 

Kao Chemicals Europe 

www.kaochemicals-eu.com 

Kao Corporation, S.A. 

Puig dels Tudons, 10 

E-08210 Barberà del Vallès 

(Barcelona) Spain 

Tel: +34 93 7399-300 

Fax:+34 93 7399-377 

e-mail:sales@kao.es 

Kao Chemicals GmbH 

Kupferstrasse 1 

D-46446 Emmerich, Germany 

Tel: +49(0)2822 711-0 

Fax:+49(0)2822 711-201 

e-mail:sales@kaochemicals.de 

Our Chemicals, Your Business

Men's Grooming guideline formulations - Kao Chemicals Europe

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