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Cosmetics, Jewelry & Accessories Retailers M&A Outlook: If You ...

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RetaileRs M&a OutlOOk: 2012<br />

Overview and analysis of M&a<br />

activity (January 2010–March 2012)<br />

analysis by Deal Number and<br />

Deal Value: Big Names Do<br />

Count!<br />

The fall in the average deal value of the<br />

cosmetics, jewelry and accessories segment<br />

was far more prominent than the fall<br />

in total deal numbers. Average deal value<br />

fell from a peak of $254mn in 2007 to a low<br />

of $26.8mn in 2009, mirroring the impact<br />

of the economic recession. There were 93<br />

closed transactions in 2009, compared with<br />

130 the year before. However, both the<br />

deal value and number of deals recovered<br />

in the subsequent years as the conditions<br />

became more favorable for deal-making<br />

(Figure 1).<br />

Strategic choices<br />

“Building capabilities, whether in the<br />

‘soft’ or ‘hard’ segments, remains a strategic<br />

choice for a company. However,<br />

diversifi cation into new areas, which<br />

you do not really master, can be risky<br />

as consumers prefer to buy a brand’s<br />

best known products rather than items<br />

outside their main brand heritage.”<br />

Lutz Becker<br />

Retail Specialist<br />

M&A International Inc.,<br />

Germany<br />

140<br />

120<br />

100<br />

Major transactions during the review period<br />

include the acquisition of Tommy Hilfi ger B.V.<br />

by US-based Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) for<br />

$3.5bn in Q2 2010. The deal represented<br />

the largest of its kind following the general<br />

upturn in the economy until French luxury<br />

goods company LVMH Moët Hennessy<br />

Louis Vuitton (LVMH) bought watchmaker<br />

and jeweler Bulgari S.p.A. in mid-2011 for<br />

$5.2bn, doubling its watch and jewelry segment<br />

sales (key brands: TAG Heuer and de<br />

Beers) in yet another landmark transaction<br />

for the sector. LVMH, traditionally a major<br />

M&A International Inc. - the world’s leading M&A alliance<br />

No. of Deals<br />

No. of Deals<br />

Figure 1: <strong>Cosmetics</strong>, jewelry and accessories segment – 2007–2011<br />

80<br />

60<br />

40<br />

20<br />

0<br />

100<br />

80<br />

60<br />

40<br />

20<br />

0<br />

124<br />

254.0<br />

130<br />

72.1<br />

92<br />

26.8<br />

93<br />

142.1<br />

103<br />

163.4<br />

2007 2008 2009 2010 2011<br />

Total T Deals<br />

Average A Deal Value V<br />

Figure 2: Analysis by segment – January 2010–March 2012<br />

88<br />

63<br />

<strong>Accessories</strong> Gems,<br />

<strong>Jewelry</strong> &<br />

Watches<br />

46<br />

20<br />

Diversified Luggage<br />

& Handbags<br />

300<br />

250<br />

200<br />

150<br />

100<br />

1<br />

acquiror, owns several major luxury brands<br />

including Louis Vuitton, Donna Karan and<br />

Moët & Chandon.<br />

analysis of M&a activity by<br />

segment type<br />

Out of 217 closed transactions1 , the accessories<br />

segment accounted for the largest<br />

share at 40.5% followed by gems, jewelry<br />

and watches (Figure 2). Accessory demand<br />

50<br />

0<br />

$mn<br />

Source: Copal Analysis and Capital IQ<br />

Source: Copal Analysis and Capital IQ<br />

1 Our analysis is based on 217 closed deals during January 2010–March 2012. The deal coverage includes: accessories (primary), luggage and handbags (primary),<br />

jewelry, timepieces and gemstone products (primary).<br />

4

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