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Handloom weaving - aiaca

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Weaving is practiced in many different regions in India. Each area has its own particular<br />

style, using traditional designs and motifs. Cotton is woven all over India. Apart from<br />

basic plain-weave fabric that is found in many places, one can take note of a few places<br />

for their distinctive weave. No matter how small or ordinary a weave may seem; it has<br />

its own distinctive character.<br />

The thousands of towns and villages where handlooms turn out huge quantities of<br />

material cater mainly to the common local people. The men need longish pieces of<br />

fabric to use as dhotis to wrap around the lower part of the body; durable material for<br />

jackets; a wrap on the body (chaddar) and lengths of fabric for the turban. This ranges<br />

from a rectangular piece to a two yards’ length, for turbans are found in countless types<br />

and offer an immense potential for ingenuity, style and taste. The women use large<br />

skirts, longish shirts, stoles or saris and blouses. Cloth is also woven for shirts, pajamas<br />

and children’s garments. All of these vary greatly from region to region. For instance<br />

while the lungi (sarong) is widely prevalent from north to south, it has many versions. In<br />

the extreme south only white lungis are worn. But starting from Andhra Pradesh right<br />

up to Punjab, brightly colored and intricately designed lungis can be seen.<br />

In countless villages and towns across the country, the sari continues to be the garment<br />

worn by the majority of women. Significant inroads have been made by machine made<br />

textiles. Yet the preference for traditional saris for ritual or every day use is one of the<br />

strongest reasons for the continued existence of a large proportion of the country’s<br />

handlooms.<br />

In Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh, where inexpensive cotton saris are produced, even<br />

the simplest has a dignity lent by very broad borders on either side, or a single<br />

decorative touch of a heavily patterned pallu – the sari end which falls over the shoulder<br />

at the back. The distinguishing mark is what is known as korvari, the solid border where<br />

the weft threads of the field do not enter into the borders.<br />

Kerala has a distinctive sari type known as Karalkuda. Similar styles in color are also<br />

produced in Coimbatore and Madurai in Tamil Nadu, Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh, and<br />

Venkatagiri in Andhra Pradesh. This has a grand look with its sheer body and gold<br />

designs like dots, coins, leaves, parrots or simple geometrical patterns on the body.<br />

The Maheshwar sari, mostly in cotton is characterized by its simplicity yet with a few<br />

singular touches takes on an irresistible charm.

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