Summer 2008 - United States Snipe Sailing

Sailing Upwind
in Chop
By Peter Commette
In the Spring 2008 issue of US Snipe Sailor we printed
an article that distinguished between the two basic
types of waves: “swell” and “chop”. It also addressed
the issue of sailing in swells. In this issue we talk
about sailing in wind and chop, conditions that are
likely to prevail at the Nationals in San Franciso this
summer. This is a revised and updated article previously
published by Peter Commette.
Getting a feel for the chop.
In choppy conditions, a
correct technique for playing
the waves is critical. You and
your crew must look beyond
the bow at all times to see the
waves before you hit them.
Chop is not swell; I am not a
big proponent of steering up
on the face of the wave and
down on the back, or steering
off on the face of the wave
and up on the back. I save that
for bigger seas in the ocean.
In chop, I find that it is much better to look at waves as
being presented to you in “blocks.” There are blocks of good
waves that will not disturb your bow, there are blocks of bad
waves that will disturb your bow, and there are flat spots. Each
of these three conditions requires the bow of your boat to be
positioned differently relative to the wind.
In the bad waves, you have to bear off and ease the main
and jib a little to get through them. I also heel my boat up a
little bit, which I admit is of questionable value. Finally, the
skipper and crew have to roll onto their aft thighs and lean
back.
In the good waves, I sail straight ahead on my normal
course. In these waves I also keep the boat as flat as possible.
Crew, remind yourselves to not over-trim the jib. The boat
needs maximum power, and the sails a free leach, to maintain
momentum in waves. The blocks of good waves are also
key transitional areas. Not only can you bear off to build
up momentum for the bad waves that are coming next, but
also it’s a good time to pinch up and get into a flat spot to
windward. Flat spots are where you can really make tracks.
What I mean by saying that you can make tracks in the
flat spots is that I view the flat spots as gifts. They are my
free shots to windward. When I get into a flat spot I trim
down extra hard on my main and pinch like crazy, sometimes
carrying a little bit of a luff in the jib. Trim the jib a little
tighter, too. The key to a flat spot is not to be a pig. The boat
cannot take this sort of pinching for too long, and, assuming
that waves will be on the other side of the flat spot, you have
to pull off in time to get speed before you get back into the
waves.
Starting a race in a breeze.
When racing in a breeze, it is critical to keep your lee bow
clear so that you can drive off when you need speed. At the
start you really need speed, so it is really critical to keep your
lee bow clear. Set up late – no earlier than one minute before
the start. And both skipper and crew must be alert and on their
toes. Find the best hole next to someone who usually sails
slower than you, this will give you a little wiggle room. If the
better hole is to leeward of the slower person, then take the
hole and keep yourself as close as possible to the slower boat.
Then, concentrate on trimming in before the boat to leeward
of you. The key to trimming first is to watch body and eye
movements and make none of your own until the last second.
Once you hear ratchets, it may be too late. If the best hole is
to windward of the slower boat, take the hole but stay close to
the windward boat concentrate totally on stuffing the person
to windward of you and trimming in before he does. The key
to controlling the person to windward of you is to stop your
boat dead, as near to him as possible, with your bow at least
two feet in front of his. Don’t be afraid to push your boom
out to stop your boat, and be careful of your mast coming to
windward and hitting the boat to windward of you as he takes
your air.
The crew meanwhile has eyes out for port tackers and
boats going behind you that may snatch YOUR hole. When
someone makes a move for your hole, bear off while easing
the main, and close the gap before he gains overlap. By
placing yourself across the hole you both discourage the other
skipper from trying to take it and also leave yourself a wider
escape to the boat to weather of you if the hole snatcher is
successful. After you have discouraged him, you can head
back up to the boat to weather, retrim your main, suck yourself
into his lee side and ease. Always have your vang loose until
just before the start, because a tight leach makes it more
difficult to plant your boat.
Upwind leg.
Once you start and you have your lee bow clear, start with
the heavy air technique. First, it is important to point off the
starting line. For that you need a straight jib stay. Any sag
in the headstay whatsoever will hinder your pointing ability.
Off the starting line and clear of other boats, you will be able
to point better if the cunninghams are slightly looser than
you would normally carry them in the breeze. Remember,
you are going to have to hike EXTRA hard with the loose
cunninghams.
Once you are safe from the boats around you and have
tightened the cunninghams, you can ease up on the hiking.
Now is when all that practice in heavy air will pay. Maintain
momentum, keep the boat flat, react in the bad waves, react in
the puffs, look for the flat spots, transition in the good waves,
and make tracks to windward in the flat spots. And don’t
forget tactics.
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