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february 13 dining guide 2013 REVIEWS 4 ZAMA 6 PHO HA 8 JOHN'S ROAST PORK 9 STATESIDE 10 THE TRESTLE INN 11 DOCK STREET BREWING CO. 12 BRAUHAUS SCHMITZ 13 KANELLA 14 SBRAGA 15 BECK'S CAJUN CAFE 16 THE GOLD STANDARD 17 PUB ON PASSAYUNK EAST 18 TEQUILA'S 19 PITRUCO 20 CAFE L'AUBE 21 PENANG 22 SPOT BURGERES 23 BUFAD 24-25 PHOTO ESSAY 26 CAFE LIFT, RALIC'S 24-47 LISTINGS PRICE PER PERSON $: 0-$10 $$: $10-$20 $$$: $20-30 $$$$: $30-up I have a confession: I have never had Shake Shack. What’s worse? I spent all summer squatting in the intern room at Bon Appétit, following @nycfoodtruck like I was John Hinkley Jr. on Jodie Foster and most days, I had tuna. Being a foodie is harder than you’d think. Let me rephrase that: separating epicurism from eating is harder than you’d think. But the line is pretty thick. For starters, you’ve got to pick your battles. Last year, my roommate decided Yogorino was the best thing she’s ever had. Kiwi didn’t do it for her and Sweetgreen’s Sweetflow sucks. So she went cold turkey on the fro–yo thing. When stuck on campus, she eats that Pequea Valley Yogurt they sell at Metro. She loves it and it loves her. Our house is littered with the remnants of her GRUBFROMtheEDITOR holdover and when she finally gets down to 20th and Locust, she’s happy as a hippo. I’m not trying to excuse my burger blunder. The Shack is less than a mile away and another one’s on its way to Drexel. I am, however, trying to excuse yours. Food is everywhere. Check the Law School. They give it away for free like, every day. On Spruce, you don’t have to go out to lunch because lunch comes to you. Hit the road, ham sandwich, Koja's got Korean in a truck. We’ve got a lot of trendy restaurants in this issue, too. Post up on your couch, nuke a bag of popcorn and read about them. They’ll be there for you tomorrow. 34TH STREET MAGAZINE Nina Wolpow, Editor–In–Chief Sam Brodey, Managing Editor Alex Hosenball, Online Managing Editor Chloe Bower, Design Editor Sarah Tse, Photo Editor Olivia Fingerhood, Asst. Design Margot Halpern, Asst. Design Isabel Oliveres, Food & Drink Editor Abigail Koffler, Food & Drink Editor COVER PHOTOS: LAURA FRANCIS & SARAH TSE Contributors: Lizzie Sivitz, Sophia Fischler-Gottfried, Frida Garza, Kimberly Schreiber, Michelle Ma, Joe Pinsker, Allie Bienenstock, John Phillips, Madeleine Wattenbarger, Zeke Sexauer, Jack LaViolette, Faryn Pearl, Ryan Zahalka, Nicole Malick, Zacchiaus McKee, Ben Lerner, Allison Bart, Laura Francis, Maegan Cadet, Shayla Cole, Adrian Franco Contacting 34th Street Magazine: If you have questions, comments, complaints or letters to the editor, email Nina Wolpow, Editor–in–Chief, at wolpow@34st.com. You can also call us at (215) 898–6585. To place an ad, call (215) 898–6581. VISIT OUR WEB SITE: www.34st.com "Street is having the worst week ever." ©2013 34th Street Magazine, The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc. No part may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express, written consent of the editors (but I bet we will give you the a-okay.) All rights reserved. 34th Street Magazine is published by The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc., 4015 Walnut St., Philadelphia, Pa., 19104, every Thursday. Dining Guide 34TH STREET Magazine February 13, 2013 3
34TH STREET Magazine February 13, 2013 Dining Guide 4 SUSHI ON THE SQUARE A modern take on traditional Japanese cuisine that’s simply superb BY NICOLE MALICK | PHOTOS COURTESY OF ZAMA Finding sushi in Philadelphia isn’t always easy, especially if you’re looking for high–quality, adventurous dishes. For Zama Restaurant, just off Rittenhouse Square, impressive sushi is just one piece of the equation. Zama's an inviting, intimate dining space: a sushi bar, a handful of booths and several tables span the restaurant, with crisp wooden planks (a twist on wood paneling) covering every wall. Throughout our meal, the servers proved knowledgeable and unintrusive but, at times, a little too quick to clear the final morsels of a dish— because every last bite, artfully prepared by Chef Hiroyuki “Zama” Tanaka, is worth it. From the first bite, the food tastes familiar but is reinvented with new sauces, spices and ingredients. The edamame sampler ($10) came with three distinct salts: wasabi, yuzu (a Japanese citrus) and smoked soy. Soft–shell shrimp ($9), served in–shell and with just–spicy– enough shisito peppers, was a thrill to eat—everything from head to tail was edible, crisp and sweet. The nasu dengaku ($10), a hollowed eggplant half–stuffed with sauteed ground chicken, and the fried brussels sprouts ($5), a side dish with truffled cashews and Parmesan cheese, showed Chef Zama’s creativity even with simple vegetables. One of the best dishes was the black cod saikyoyaki ($24), understandably known as “butterfish.” Zama’s version gives the melt–in–your–mouth consistency black cod is famous for, without excessive sweetness. The tuna tataki ($18) was similarly excellent; the seared tuna sashimi with a powerful miso honey sauce was tricky to eat with chopsticks, which only made each vegetable–topped bite more rewarding. While impressive turquoise bowls of sushi ($16-$36) were delivered to several diners in the restaurant, I only sampled two of the more intricate rolls. The best of the two (and my favorite dish overall) was the wasabi lobster ($18), a shrimp California roll sprinkled with wasabi topped with a lobster salad. Each piece was presented with a plump drop of mango chili sauce that blended the rich flavors together perfectly. An overpowering citrus flavor of the Bronzizzle ($16), a cucumber and avocado roll topped with branzino fish, was the only drawback to the otherwise delicious second roll. The meal came to a close with spicy shrimp tempura hand rolls ($13), in lieu of the traditional tamago, ending a very memorable feast. Chef Zama’s menu will introduce you to new things and make you fall in love all over again with dishes you thought couldn’t get better. It may be too expensive for the collegeaged diner, but when you're craving sushi and have the cash, an a la carte sushi menu ($3-$17 per roll), a maki lunch set ($15) and a dinner tasting menu ($36) await. ZAMA RESTAURANT Rittenhouse Square 128 S. 19th St. (215) 568-1027 DON'T MISS: Wasabi lobster roll. SKIP: Philadelphia or other typical (Americanized) rolls. $$$$ SPLURGE ALERT
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