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Frommer's Portugal 18th Edition - Asociación de Amigos de Portugal ...

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16<br />

CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PORTUGAL<br />

a meal with cheese, fruit, or nuts.<br />

You can visit a port-wine lodge to<br />

learn more about port—and, more<br />

important, to taste it. The best<br />

lodges to visit are concentrated in<br />

Vila Nova <strong>de</strong> Gaia, a suburb of<br />

Porto across the Douro from Porto’s<br />

commercial center.<br />

• Vinhos Ver<strong>de</strong>s (pronounced<br />

“veen-yosh vair-<strong>de</strong>sh”): These<br />

“green wines” are more lemony in<br />

color. Many come from the Minho<br />

district in northwest <strong>Portugal</strong>,<br />

which, like Galicia in the north of<br />

Spain, gets an abundance of rain.<br />

Cultivated in a humid atmosphere,<br />

the grapes are picked while young.<br />

Some wine aficionados don’t consi<strong>de</strong>r<br />

this wine serious, finding it<br />

too light. With its fruity flavor, it’s<br />

said to suggest the cool breezes of<br />

summer. It’s often served with fish,<br />

and many Portuguese use it as a<br />

thirst quencher in the way an<br />

American might consume a soft<br />

drink. The finest vinhos ver<strong>de</strong>s are<br />

from Monção, just south of the<br />

river Minho. Those from Amarante<br />

are also praised.<br />

• Dão: Dão is produced from<br />

grapes grown just south of the<br />

Douro in the north’s mountainous<br />

heartland. “Our vines have ten<strong>de</strong>r<br />

grapes” goes the saying throughout<br />

the valleys of Mon<strong>de</strong>go and<br />

Dão, each split by a river. Summers<br />

are fiery hot and winters wet,<br />

cold, and often bitter. A lot of<br />

Dão wine is red, notably the vinhos<br />

maduros, matured in oak<br />

casks for nearly 2 years before<br />

12 The Best Offbeat Trips<br />

• Horseback Riding Along the<br />

Coast: The Atlantic Ocean is the<br />

livelihood of many Portuguese and<br />

the inspiration for a number of<br />

ri<strong>de</strong>s along its beaches. An American<br />

company, Equitour, offers<br />

being bottled. The wine is velvety<br />

in texture and often accompanies<br />

roasts. At almost every restaurant<br />

in <strong>Portugal</strong>, you’ll encounter<br />

either branco (white) or Dão tinto<br />

(red). The best bottles of red Dão<br />

wine are the reserve (“reserva” is<br />

printed on the label). Other<br />

names to look for inclu<strong>de</strong> Porta<br />

dos Cavaleiros and Terras Altas.<br />

(No one seems to agree on how to<br />

pronounce the name—daw-ng,<br />

da-ow, or, least flattering, dung.)<br />

• Ma<strong>de</strong>ira: Grown from grapes<br />

rooted in the island’s volcanic soil,<br />

this wine traces its origins to 1419.<br />

Its history is similar to that of port,<br />

in that it was highly prized by aristocratic<br />

British families. George<br />

Washington was among the wine’s<br />

early admirers, although the<br />

Ma<strong>de</strong>ira he consumed little resembled<br />

the product bottled today.<br />

Mo<strong>de</strong>rn Ma<strong>de</strong>ira wines are lighter<br />

and drier than the thick, sweet<br />

kinds favored by generations past.<br />

The wine, which is fortified and<br />

blen<strong>de</strong>d, inclu<strong>de</strong>s such varieties as<br />

Malmsey, Malvasia, and Boal—<br />

sweet, heavy wines usually served<br />

with <strong>de</strong>ssert or at the end of a meal.<br />

The less sweet Ver<strong>de</strong>lho is often<br />

consumed as a light drink between<br />

meals, in much the same way that<br />

a Spaniard downs a glass of sherry.<br />

Dry and light, Sercial is best as an<br />

aperitif and is often served in <strong>Portugal</strong><br />

with toasted and salted<br />

almonds. None of these wines is<br />

likely to be consumed with the<br />

main dish at dinner.<br />

these treks. (For more <strong>de</strong>tails, refer<br />

to section 14 in chapter 2). In addition<br />

to beach riding, there is<br />

trekking through olive groves, vineyards,<br />

pine forests, and lagoons.<br />

Seeing this beautiful country from

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