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Migratory birds tell<br />

climate change story<br />

Backcountry skiing<br />

in wilderness<br />

Threat of oil drilling<br />

off the coast of Alaska<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

THE WILDERNESS SOCIETY 2011-2012


© A. Vedder<br />

Tackling Radical Ideas that Threaten Your Land<br />

LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT<br />

All of us who believe in protecting<br />

our natural heritage were<br />

dismayed when the third-ranking<br />

Congressman in the House<br />

leadership introduced a bill<br />

that came to be known as “the<br />

Great Outdoors Giveaway.”<br />

It would rescind policies that<br />

currently protect more than<br />

60 million acres of national<br />

forest and other undeveloped<br />

public lands. At a hearing, former<br />

Interior Secretary Bruce<br />

Babbitt testified that H.R. 1581 was “the most radical, overreaching<br />

attempt to dismantle the architecture of our public<br />

land laws that has been proposed in my lifetime.”<br />

A second major attack on our natural legacy was an effort<br />

to dramatically reduce the already modest funding for the<br />

protection of our air, water, land, and wildlife. Those pushing<br />

for these deep cuts simultaneously fought to retain the more<br />

than $4 billion in annual subsidies enjoyed by the oil industry.<br />

Meanwhile, Shell is moving closer to federal authorization to<br />

drill in marine mammal-rich waters of the Arctic Ocean.<br />

With so much focus on the economy, the upheaval in the<br />

Middle East, and other compelling stories, I suspect that very<br />

few Americans realize just how far outside the mainstream the<br />

House of Representatives has moved. <strong>The</strong> hard truth is that by<br />

the time it recessed in August, the House already had voted<br />

110 times to undermine environmental protections. It has<br />

earned a reputation as the most anti-environmental House in<br />

congressional history and will be pushing this agenda through<br />

the end of 2012.<br />

We are responding with a strategic campaign that will<br />

help citizens deliver a message to Congress about their opposition<br />

to these anti-environmental legislative initiatives.<br />

Joining with sportsmen, business people, the recreation community,<br />

and others, we are playing a leading role in mobilizing<br />

Americans. We are marshaling evidence that investing in<br />

public land conservation is smart economic policy, paying off<br />

in stronger local economies and jobs. For example, during<br />

the August recess, we organized volunteers in some of the<br />

WILDERNESS, winner last year of awards from<br />

the International Academy of the Visual Arts<br />

and Communications Concepts, is published<br />

annually by <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>. Members<br />

also receive a newsletter three times a year.<br />

Founded in 1935, <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>’s<br />

mission is to protect wilderness and inspire<br />

Americans to care for our wild places.<br />

nation’s most conservative congressional districts. At meetings<br />

with their representatives, they spoke forcefully about<br />

how much they value the natural treasures in their backyards.<br />

Perhaps the most important resource we provide is fierce<br />

determination. <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>’s founders had that<br />

77 years ago, and it has remained a part of our gene pool.<br />

Certainly there are days that can be discouraging, but then<br />

there are days when I see unmistakable evidence of progress.<br />

During the summer I was in Utah and Idaho with county commissioners<br />

who traditionally have opposed our efforts to protect<br />

wilderness. On those trips, I found that they were open to<br />

working with us on positive conservation proposals, including<br />

those designating wilderness areas.<br />

How did this happen? It happened because these conservative<br />

political leaders and their constituents really do care<br />

deeply about the land near where they live. It was the natural<br />

product of years of one-on-one contact by members of our<br />

staff to build trust. When they realized <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong><br />

genuinely wanted to work with them, and not against them,<br />

and that together we could preserve beautiful areas they<br />

knew and loved, their attitudes began to change.<br />

I hope you will enjoy this issue of <strong>Wilderness</strong>. You’ll find<br />

stories about a man on Cape Cod who sold his land to the<br />

National Park Service instead of to a developer and about<br />

what migratory birds are telling us about climate change.<br />

You’ll meet five up-and-coming environmental leaders and<br />

find out what’s going on in the regions where we are most<br />

active. New this year is a crossword puzzle. We welcome your<br />

reactions to any of these features.<br />

William H. Meadows<br />

P.S. I can’t thank you enough for your commitment to helping<br />

us protect the lands that belong to all Americans. Without<br />

your support, this work would be impossible, and we will need<br />

to count on you as the fights intensify this fall and into 2012.<br />

Editor: Bennett H. Beach<br />

(ben_beach@tws.org)<br />

Photo Editor: Lisa Dare<br />

Design: Studio Grafik<br />

Proofreader: Connie Quinley<br />

© 2011 by<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>,<br />

1615 M St., NW,<br />

Washington, DC 20036<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

COVER PHOTO<br />

© Tim Fitzharris.com<br />

2 1-800-THE-WILD


Table of Contents<br />

17 <strong>The</strong> Final Frontier<br />

What is at stake if Shell drills off Alaska’s northern coast?<br />

By Marilyn Berlin Snell<br />

© Steven Kazlowski/AlaskaStock.com<br />

12 “My Favorite Place”<br />

Five citizens tell us about theirs<br />

13 Harbingers of Climate Change<br />

Bird migration patterns changing with climate change<br />

By Mel White<br />

22 Why I Sold My Land to the American People<br />

On Cape Cod, a campground operator put the public first<br />

By Kathy Shorr<br />

26 Skiing in <strong>Wilderness</strong> Wonderlands<br />

As winter nears, here are ten backcountry skiing gems<br />

By David Goodman<br />

30 <strong>The</strong> Bob and I, Under the Big Sky<br />

An essay by Ivan Doig<br />

32 Does Nature Affect Your Behavior?<br />

A Q&A with Dr. Frances E. Kuo<br />

32 <strong>Wilderness</strong> At Risk<br />

A photo essay features eight treasures that are in jeopardy<br />

This magazine was printed on 30-percent-postconsumer-waste-recycled,<br />

elemental chlorine-free<br />

paper certified by the Forest Stewardship Council. As<br />

a result, we used 196 fewer trees than we would have if<br />

printing on virgin paper. We also reduced our electricity<br />

consumption by 79 million BTUs, water use by 88,854<br />

gallons, solid waste by 5,632 pounds, and greenhouse<br />

gas emissions by 19,704 pounds. (Environmental<br />

impact estimates were made using the Environmental<br />

Defense Fund Paper Calculator. For more information,<br />

visit http://www.edf.org/papercalculator/<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong><br />

meets all standards as<br />

set forth by the Better<br />

Business Bureau/Wise<br />

Giving Alliance.<br />

44<br />

© Dave Showalter<br />

42 Building an Army of Young Conservation Leaders<br />

We are training a corps for the future<br />

By Hannah Nordhaus<br />

44 Too Wild to Drill<br />

Will rigs, roads and pipelines sprout south of Yellowstone?<br />

By Dave Showalter<br />

47 <strong>Wilderness</strong> Investors with a Long-Term View<br />

Barbara and Bert Cohn are philanthropic champions<br />

48 Everyone in the Car!<br />

How those summertime national park trips shaped<br />

our views<br />

By Susan Rugh<br />

52 On Safari in the Bodie Hills<br />

This California treasure is this year’s “great place to visit”<br />

By David Page<br />

58 my wilderness<br />

Frontier Airlines and its spokesanimals have taken up<br />

the cause<br />

By Tashia Tucker<br />

DEPARTMENTS<br />

4 Past Year’s Achievements<br />

6 News from the Regions<br />

51 Poetry<br />

60 <strong>Wilderness</strong> Heroes<br />

61 Crossword Puzzle<br />

3


© USFWS/Gary Kramer<br />

ALASKA: <strong>The</strong> 9.34 million acres of<br />

inventoried roadless areas in Alaska’s<br />

Tongass National Forest is now protected,<br />

once again, by the Roadless<br />

Rule…We were able to celebrate<br />

completion of a successful decadelong<br />

restoration of damaged salmon<br />

habitat in the Tongass’s Harris River<br />

watershed… Our coalition continued<br />

to fend off efforts to allow drilling<br />

in the biological heart of the Arctic<br />

National Wildlife Refuge, and the U.S.<br />

Fish & Wildlife Service’s new draft<br />

management plan for the refuge has<br />

opened the door to considering a<br />

wilderness recommendation for the<br />

coastal plain.<br />

FORESTS: <strong>The</strong> government agreed<br />

with our contention that a BLM plan<br />

calling for excessive logging in the<br />

Pacific Northwest forests should be<br />

shelved, and is now determining the<br />

best way to proceed… Proposed<br />

changes in rules governing the<br />

193-million-acre National Forest<br />

System would result in cleaner drinking<br />

water, greater recreational opportunities,<br />

improved wildlife habitat, and, for<br />

the first time, consideration of climate<br />

change… A ten-year effort paid off at<br />

Colorado’s White River National Forest<br />

in a plan that will minimize the impact<br />

of snowmobiles and other off-road<br />

vehicles and will eliminate unnecessary<br />

roads... Thanks to settlement of<br />

our coalition’s lawsuit, 900,000 acres<br />

Achievements<br />

Working with a broad array of<br />

partners over the past 12 months,<br />

we have succeeded in protecting<br />

many important natural areas.<br />

As always, the support provided<br />

by members of <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong> was invaluable. <strong>The</strong><br />

success stories include:<br />

of roadless land in four Southern<br />

California national forests will receive<br />

greater protection… <strong>The</strong> U.S. Forest<br />

Service launched an initiative to substantially<br />

scale back its immense and<br />

decaying road system.<br />

WILDLIFE: Ruling in our favor, a<br />

federal court put the West Virginia<br />

northern flying squirrel back on the<br />

Endangered Species List, improving<br />

our prospects for preventing a<br />

large-scale logging project in the<br />

Monongahela National Forest… We<br />

played an active role in a state-andfederal<br />

decision to shelve a plan to<br />

allow the killing of wolves in a Unimak<br />

Island wilderness area in the Alaska<br />

Maritime National Wildlife Refuge.<br />

Our forest accomplishments included<br />

watershed restoration in the Tongass<br />

(below) and motorized vehicle regulation<br />

in the White River National Forest (right).<br />

© Sheila Jacobson/USFS<br />

© Fred Hanselmann/hanselmannphotography.com<br />

4 1-800-THE-WILD


ENERGY: We secured greater protection<br />

of water quality and other<br />

environmental safeguards in settling<br />

our lawsuit challenging oil shale<br />

development policy for public lands in<br />

the Rockies…<strong>The</strong> Interior Department<br />

moved closer to developing a national<br />

Smart from the Start renewable energy<br />

framework for development of solar<br />

energy on public and private lands, in<br />

part due to coalition efforts to bring<br />

diverse stakeholders together in support<br />

of these efforts.… <strong>The</strong> Federal<br />

Energy Regulatory Commission (FERC)<br />

issued a rule on planning and financing<br />

new transmission lines that, if<br />

implemented properly, should reduce<br />

impacts on important natural areas<br />

and should facilitate renewable energy<br />

production.<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

OFF-ROAD VEHICLES: We helped<br />

defeat an attempt to overturn a Forest<br />

Service plan to protect the Badger-Two<br />

Medicine, near Glacier National Park,<br />

from off-road vehicle damage... We<br />

won our lawsuit challenging a plan for<br />

Idaho’s Salmon-Challis National Forest<br />

that we believe allowed too much offroad<br />

vehicle traffic.<br />

OTHER VICTORIES: We played a<br />

leading role in defeat of an amendment<br />

that would have significantly<br />

weakened the Antiquities Act, used by<br />

15 presidents to protect places such<br />

as Grand Teton and Acadia national<br />

parks… President Obama issued an<br />

America’s Great Outdoors report<br />

recommending a number of valuable<br />

ways to promote outdoor recreation<br />

and protect natural areas…<br />

We helped secure congressional appropriations<br />

from the Land and Water<br />

Conservation Fund that will enable<br />

the protection of high-quality—but<br />

threatened—natural areas in dozens<br />

of states. <strong>The</strong> places that will benefit<br />

include Lower Rio Grande Valley<br />

National Wildlife Refuge, Golden<br />

Gate National Recreation Area, St.<br />

Marks National Wildlife Refuge, and<br />

Grand Canyon-Parashant National<br />

Monument… We helped defeat<br />

an amendment that would have<br />

defunded the National Landscape<br />

Conservation System.<br />

New rules will increase protection of our<br />

national forests (top), and we had a hand<br />

in a decision that will limit future off-road<br />

vehicle damage in the Badger Two-<br />

Medicine (below).<br />

© Bill Hodge<br />

© Jared White<br />

5


otes from the field<br />

ALASKA<br />

Bristol Bay in southwest Alaska is one<br />

of the most prodigious salmon fisheries<br />

in the world, contributing more<br />

than $500 million a year to the commercial<br />

fishing industry alone. Feeding<br />

this economic powerhouse is a large<br />

watershed, where Native communities<br />

have caught and smoked salmon for<br />

generations. But two mining corporations<br />

have combined to propose what<br />

could become North America’s largest<br />

open pit mine. <strong>The</strong> two billion tons of<br />

toxic pollutants from this 15-squaremile<br />

gold and copper operation would<br />

threaten not only the Bay’s famous<br />

salmon, king salmon, and rainbow<br />

trout, but humpback, finback, and<br />

minke whales.<br />

Lydia Olympic is leading our efforts<br />

to prevent mining in this special<br />

area. A Yupik/Sugpiaq from Igiugig, a<br />

village in the watershed, Olympic has<br />

become such a fervent opponent of<br />

the mine that she is sometimes called<br />

“the Pebble Rebel with a Cause.” On<br />

October 4 the residents of Lake and<br />

Peninsula Borough will be able to vote<br />

on the Save Our Salmon initiative,<br />

which aims to block the project.<br />

Nicole Whittington-Evans<br />

907-272-9453<br />

nicole_whittington-evans@tws.org<br />

We are working with many allies to<br />

prevent an open pit mine from being<br />

developed in the rich fisheries of the<br />

Bristol Bay watershed.<br />

© Flickr/toddraden<br />

PACIFIC NORTHWEST<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> and the<br />

Methow Valley Ranger District of the<br />

Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest<br />

are working with the community to restore<br />

the health of the Chewuch River<br />

basin by reducing the environmental<br />

impacts of the 608-mile road network.<br />

This watershed provides precious cold<br />

water to a number of vital fish species<br />

and to working farms. It also is a<br />

magnet for those who enjoy hiking,<br />

camping, cross-country skiing, wildlife<br />

viewing, biking, firewood gathering,<br />

horseback riding, snowmobiling, or<br />

hunting. Such activities are the lifeblood<br />

of the local economy.<br />

After our team spent<br />

eight months gathering<br />

public views on this<br />

top-priority North Cascades<br />

watershed, it became clear that<br />

area residents want a road and trail<br />

system that: 1) provides outstanding<br />

and diverse recreational opportunities;<br />

2) represents sound fiscal and<br />

forest management by the U.S. Forest<br />

Service; 3) is environmentally sound<br />

and supports salmon recovery efforts<br />

in the Methow basin; and 4) uses<br />

partnerships to achieve these goals.<br />

Guided by these findings, the Forest<br />

Service will draft a plan for revising<br />

and managing the system. That draft is<br />

expected this fall.<br />

Peter Dykstra 206-624-6430<br />

pdykstra@twsnw.org<br />

© Flickr/ripkas<br />

CALIFORNIA-NEVADA<br />

Los Padres National<br />

Forest is home<br />

to the Big Sur<br />

Coast, mountains<br />

as high as<br />

8,800 feet, and<br />

the headwaters of<br />

many California rivers.<br />

Visitors enjoy<br />

chaparral-covered<br />

slopes, expansive<br />

grasslands, rolling<br />

badlands, and<br />

deep, winding river<br />

canyons. Featuring<br />

1,200 plant species,<br />

the forest provides habitat for 468<br />

species of wildlife, including the San<br />

Joaquin kit fox, southern steelhead,<br />

bald eagle (above), and the California<br />

condor. Of the state’s 19 national<br />

forests, the Los Padres is the secondlargest<br />

and is a major destination for<br />

those who enjoy outdoor recreation.<br />

But this special forest faces significant<br />

threats, including oil and gas development<br />

and uncontrolled off-road<br />

vehicle use. So we have helped create<br />

the Southern Los Padres Wild Heritage<br />

Campaign to identify wildlands and<br />

rivers suitable for permanent protection<br />

and to build public support for<br />

legislation that would preserve them.<br />

We hope to see a bill introduced this<br />

year. Our coalition includes many businesses<br />

in Santa Barbara and Ventura<br />

counties, a number of which depend<br />

on the $24 million generated annually<br />

by visitor spending.<br />

Dan Smuts 415-398-1111<br />

dan_smuts@tws.org<br />

Restoring the North Cascades’ Chewuch<br />

River basin is a major priority.<br />

6 1-800-THE-WILD<br />

© William Kramer/USFWS


IDAHO<br />

In 2009, climaxing an eight-year effort<br />

by a diverse coalition of Idahoans,<br />

Congress permanently protected<br />

a half million acres of the Owyhee<br />

Canyonlands by adding them to the<br />

National <strong>Wilderness</strong> Preservation<br />

System. But due to private tracts sprinkled<br />

through the wilderness, public access<br />

is sometimes a challenge. We are<br />

working with <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> Land Trust<br />

and Back Country Horsemen of Idaho<br />

to solve this problem, and <strong>The</strong> Trust<br />

recently purchased three properties and<br />

donated them to the U.S. Bureau of<br />

Land Management, which oversees the<br />

canyonlands. One parcel, adjacent to a<br />

campground, offers spectacular scenery<br />

in the heart of the Owyhees and contains<br />

more than a mile of the North Fork<br />

Owyhee River. <strong>The</strong> other two properties<br />

border Shoo Fly Creek in the Little<br />

Jacks Creek <strong>Wilderness</strong>. <strong>The</strong>y feature<br />

wide-open vistas, stunning canyons, and<br />

abundant wildlife. Totaling 1,100 acres,<br />

the three tracts are the first in a series of<br />

planned acquisitions.<br />

Craig Gehrke 208-343-8153<br />

craig_gehrke@tws.org<br />

NORTHERN ROCKIES<br />

Montana’s Bob Marshall <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

Complex, affectionately known as “the<br />

Bob” and named for a <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong> founder, is one of the nation’s<br />

outstanding wilderness areas. Under the<br />

We are part of an effort to improve<br />

public access to Owyhee Canyonlands<br />

wilderness in Idaho.<br />

© John McCarthy<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

proposed Rocky Mountain<br />

Front Heritage Act, it would<br />

grow by 67,000 acres. <strong>The</strong><br />

proposal also would protect<br />

adjacent public lands from<br />

expanding motorized use<br />

through a 208,000-acre<br />

custom-tailored conservation<br />

management area and<br />

would help control noxious<br />

weeds, considered one of<br />

the greatest threats to this<br />

extraordinary ecosystem.<br />

<strong>The</strong> front, where the<br />

Great Plains meet the<br />

Rockies, features some of<br />

the continent’s most spectacular<br />

wildlife habitat and<br />

still has all the major species<br />

observed by Lewis and Clark as<br />

they traveled through two centuries<br />

ago, including grizzlies, wolverines,<br />

and lynx. To maintain the front’s natural<br />

qualities and area residents’ way of<br />

life, <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> and other<br />

members of the broad Coalition to<br />

Protect the Rocky Mountain Front are<br />

urging Senator Max Baucus (D-MT)<br />

to introduce the act drawn up by the<br />

coalition. In August more than 450<br />

Montanans attended public meetings<br />

with the senator to convey their<br />

strong support for this initiative. Go<br />

to www.savethefront.org to learn<br />

more and to help.<br />

Peter Aengst 406-586-1600<br />

peter_aengst@tws.org<br />

© Gene Sentz<br />

A proposed bill to protect the Rocky<br />

Mountain Front (above) would expand<br />

Montana’s Bob Marshall <strong>Wilderness</strong>.<br />

UTAH<br />

Operators of Coal Hollow Mine,<br />

the state’s only strip mine, want to<br />

expand it onto 3,500 acres of adjacent<br />

public land ten miles southwest<br />

of Bryce Canyon National Park. This<br />

could extend the life of the mining<br />

operation about 20 years. Such a step<br />

would increase water and air pollution,<br />

raise noise levels, reduce the darkness<br />

of night skies, undercut tourism<br />

and recreation, and damage habitat<br />

vital to sage grouse, bald eagles, and<br />

7


© Flickr/mharrsch<br />

other wildlife—all on the doorstep of a<br />

prized national park.<br />

<strong>The</strong> U.S. Bureau of Land<br />

Management (BLM), which oversees<br />

the land, is finalizing a draft EIS and<br />

then will conduct public meetings in<br />

Alton, Panguitch, Cedar City, Kanab,<br />

and Salt Lake City to hear citizens’<br />

reactions. <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> is<br />

working to defeat this proposal. We<br />

believe it would be wiser to promote<br />

development of the energy sources<br />

of the future. For example, three solar<br />

energy zones on BLM lands are under<br />

consideration in Utah, and they are<br />

near the Coal Hollow Mine, in Iron<br />

and Beaver counties. To express your<br />

views, visit www.blm.gov/ut/st/en.html.<br />

Julie Mack 801-355-0070<br />

julie_mack@tws.org<br />

ARIZONA<br />

We are working with a broad coalition<br />

to protect significant public lands in<br />

western Maricopa County. Most of the<br />

acreage in the Sonoran Desert Heritage<br />

Proposal is within a short driving<br />

distance of Greater Phoenix, providing<br />

hikers, hunters, campers, and others<br />

with easy access to spectacular scenery<br />

and solitude. <strong>The</strong> area features striking<br />

variety: iconic Sonoran desert uplands<br />

along the Gila River, black basalt fields<br />

formed by ancient volcanic eruptions,<br />

jagged mountain ranges, and desert<br />

basins thick with creosote and brightgreen<br />

palo verde. <strong>The</strong> wildlife there includes<br />

bighorn sheep, desert tortoises,<br />

Gila monsters (photo at left), bobcats,<br />

and hundreds of bird species.<br />

<strong>The</strong> land also has a colorful and<br />

diverse history, created by the prehistoric<br />

Hohokam and Patayan peoples,<br />

Spanish explorers, U.S. Army expeditions,<br />

hard-riding cowboys, ranchers,<br />

and miners. <strong>The</strong> rapid growth of the region<br />

gives urgency to this conservation<br />

initiative, and we intend to finalize the<br />

proposal by the end of the year with a<br />

hope of introduction and consideration<br />

by Congress in 2012. <strong>The</strong> wide array of<br />

supporters includes the Fighter Country<br />

Partnership, dedicated to protecting<br />

the air space needed by Luke Air<br />

Force Base and other nearby military<br />

installations. To learn more, visit www.<br />

sonoranheritage.org.<br />

Mike Quigley 520-334-8741<br />

mike_quigley@tws.org<br />

In Utah, the Coal Hollow Mine (left) might expand onto public lands outside Bryce<br />

Canyon National Park, while Colorado’s progressive law promoting renewable energy is<br />

being challenged in court.<br />

© Tim Wagner, Resilient Habitats Campaign, Sierra Club<br />

© istockphoto.com/kokophoto<br />

COLORADO<br />

Environmentalists cheered when their<br />

campaign paid off in a Colorado law<br />

requiring the state’s larger utilities to<br />

obtain 30 percent of their energy from<br />

renewable sources by 2020. As the<br />

second-strongest law of its kind in the<br />

nation, it made Colorado the face of<br />

the “new energy economy.” But the law<br />

was challenged in court by a businessman<br />

and two anti-environmental groups<br />

who said they “wanted to put wind<br />

energy on trial.” <strong>The</strong>y claimed it would<br />

force up electricity costs and violate the<br />

Constitution by imposing burdens on<br />

the interstate market for electricity.<br />

We have asked the U.S. District Court<br />

to dismiss the suit, arguing that the<br />

plaintiffs could not show they had been<br />

injured—a prerequisite to going to<br />

court. We believe that the nation must<br />

move quickly toward use of renewable<br />

energy to reduce reliance on climatechanging<br />

fossil fuels, improve our air<br />

and water, and decrease our dependence<br />

on foreign oil. Colorado has<br />

become a leader in clean energy, and<br />

the financial and environmental benefits<br />

are significant. For example, the state’s<br />

solar energy economy already features<br />

230 companies and employs more than<br />

2,500 people.<br />

Suzanne Jones 303-650-5818<br />

suzanne_jones@tws.org<br />

New Mexico’s Organ Mountains would<br />

be protected under a bill now being<br />

considered by the U.S. Senate.<br />

© Flickr/Dolor Ipsum<br />

8 1-800-THE-WILD


© Erin Paul Donovan<br />

Our coalition is opposing a logging project proposed for White Mountain National<br />

Forest (above). In Georgia’s Chattahoochee National Forest (right), we are part of an<br />

initiative to improve wilderness management.<br />

NEW MEXICO<br />

<strong>The</strong> Organ Mountains are named for<br />

the needle-like extrusions of granite<br />

that resemble organ pipes. Ranging up<br />

to 9,012 feet, their outline ripples the<br />

horizon just east of the fast-growing<br />

city of Las Cruces in Doña Ana County.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Organ Mountains are home to 870<br />

species of vascular plants, pronghorn,<br />

mule deer, quail, golden eagles, and<br />

many other species. Migrating duck<br />

and threatened grassland songbirds<br />

depend on the Organ Mountains during<br />

their long journeys.<br />

We are building public support<br />

for S. 1024, which would permanently<br />

protect more than 241,000 acres of<br />

wilderness and create 159,000 acres<br />

of national conservation areas in the<br />

Organs and elsewhere in southern<br />

New Mexico. For example, the bill<br />

would protect the gorgeous volcanic<br />

cliffs and buttes of Broad Canyon and<br />

the grasslands banking up against<br />

the cinder-cone and mantled basalt<br />

upthrust of the Potrillos Mountains.<br />

Included are seeps and springs of<br />

clean water feeding into the Rio<br />

Grande. Please urge your representatives<br />

in Congress to support this<br />

legislation, introduced by the state’s<br />

senators, Jeff Bingaman (D) and Tom<br />

Udall (D).<br />

Michael Casaus 505-247-0834<br />

michael_casaus@tws.org<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

NORTHEAST<br />

<strong>The</strong> Table Mountain Roadless Area inside<br />

New Hampshire’s White Mountain<br />

National Forest would be logged—<br />

and in some locations clear-cut—under<br />

the U.S. Forest Service’s proposed<br />

“Northeast Swift” timber project. <strong>The</strong><br />

land is visible to the north from the<br />

famous Kancamagus Scenic Highway.<br />

This is the eighth timber project<br />

proposed in the forest’s roadless areas<br />

since 2005, and we have submitted<br />

comments outlining our strong opposition.<br />

Standing trees in large blocks<br />

of mature forest store carbon that<br />

otherwise would exacerbate global<br />

warming, and they provide highquality<br />

wildlife habitat. In northern<br />

New England, the federal government<br />

is the landowner best able to create<br />

and sustain mature forest conditions,<br />

so that should be the management<br />

priority rather than creating additional<br />

early successional habitat. Timbering<br />

makes sense in some locations, but<br />

not in roadless areas, which feature<br />

mature forest. Moreover, this proposal<br />

does not make economic sense.<br />

Pristine national forest land supports<br />

recreation and tourism, the region’s<br />

largest revenue generators Timbering<br />

produces much less revenue. To read<br />

our comments, go to: www.wilderness.<br />

org/NH-Roadless.<br />

Ben Rose 802-222-7068<br />

ben_rose@tws.org<br />

SOUTHEAST<br />

In anticipation of the 50th anniversary<br />

of the <strong>Wilderness</strong> Act in 2014, the<br />

chief of the U.S. Forest Service created<br />

the Chief’s Challenge, with a goal of<br />

having all wilderness areas in national<br />

forests achieve certain management<br />

standards by that date. To help the<br />

agency in Georgia’s Chattahoochee<br />

National Forest, we assigned David<br />

Cohen, a ranger in our new Southern<br />

Appalachian <strong>Wilderness</strong> Stewards<br />

(SAWS) program. He is surveying visitors<br />

on their use of five wilderness areas:<br />

Blood Mountain, Raven Cliffs, Tray<br />

Mountain, Mark Trail, and Cohutta,<br />

which adjoins Tennessee’s Big Frog<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong>. He also provides visitors<br />

with information, including the Leave<br />

No Trace principles. Funding from the<br />

National Forest Foundation has made<br />

David’s work possible.<br />

We also have been active in<br />

Arkansas’ Ouachita National Forest,<br />

where an April tornado had forced closure<br />

of the popular Ouachita National<br />

Recreation Trail. We assembled a crew<br />

to spend a week helping Friends of<br />

the Ouachita Trail reopen the route,<br />

which was blocked by 30 fallen trees.<br />

Because we were inside a wilderness<br />

area, power tools were not permitted,<br />

so we used cross-cut saws and axes.<br />

SAWS has been teaching this type of<br />

non-mechanized tool use to southeastern<br />

trail clubs’ volunteers, introducing<br />

a new generation to stewardship of<br />

wilderness trails.<br />

Brent Martin 828- 587-9453<br />

brent_martin@tws.org<br />

© Bill Hodge<br />

9


Glacier National Park and the<br />

rest of northwestern Montana’s<br />

pristine “Crown of the Continent”<br />

is number one for me.<br />

Soaring eagles, snowcapped<br />

10,000-foot peaks, and worldrenowned<br />

fly-fishing create a<br />

breathtaking outdoor paradise<br />

that has it all. Large elk, bighorn<br />

sheep, moose, and grizzly<br />

bear populations prove that<br />

this isn’t just human habitat. I<br />

also like the snowy, not-toobitterly-cold<br />

winters; warm, dry,<br />

sunny summers; and folks that<br />

make you feel right at home.<br />

Sasha Goldstein<br />

Reporter<br />

New London, Connecticut<br />

My favorite wild place is Mesa<br />

Verde National Park in western<br />

Colorado, where I can see the<br />

comprehension of nature and<br />

history come alive on children’s<br />

faces. Life in the open air, in the<br />

sun, in nature, and the wilderness<br />

are so precious to the<br />

body, mind and spirit of children.<br />

Honor the sacred. Honor<br />

the Earth, our Mother...so we<br />

teach at Escuela Tlatelolco in<br />

the inner city of Denver.<br />

Nita Gonzalez<br />

Educator/activist<br />

Denver<br />

© Steve Goldstein © Camille Brightsmith © Paul Zink<br />

© Megan Quinn<br />

“My Favorite Place”<br />

Most of us can name a place that is our<br />

idea of paradise. Its allure may stem from<br />

the memories, the scenery, the wildlife, the<br />

things we do, the sounds and smells, or some<br />

combination of ingredients. We asked a<br />

number of people to tell us about their favorite<br />

places, and here are five of the answers.<br />

My favorite place is the scenic Black Hills area of western South<br />

Dakota and eastern Wyoming. <strong>The</strong> Black Hills are a Great Plains<br />

anomaly: <strong>The</strong>y resemble an island of ponderosa pine rising out of a<br />

sea of short-grass prairie. This area is home to mountain lions, mule<br />

deer, elk, American bison, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, and<br />

other wildlife often associated with the Rockies or environs farther<br />

west. Mountain lakes and streams offer great trout fishing. I learned<br />

to fly-fish on Spearfish Creek near Spearfish, S.D., in 1989 and have<br />

made the eight-hour trek from Omaha nearly every year since.<br />

Aaron Quinn<br />

Engineer<br />

Omaha, Nebraska<br />

I’m not sure if it’s the arid<br />

desolation, raggedy peaks of<br />

perfection, or the gal I chased<br />

after to get there, but my<br />

favorite place in the world is<br />

the Sierra Nevada. Two seasons<br />

working on public lands out<br />

there is enough to convince<br />

anyone to be a conservationist.<br />

From chasing bears out<br />

of campgrounds to filming<br />

cowboys in the backcountry, or<br />

even just drinking fresh, cold<br />

spring water, my experiences<br />

there make me think about the<br />

Sierra every day and wonder<br />

when I’ll ever get back there.<br />

Jeff Chen<br />

Co-founder of Pick Up America<br />

Columbia, Maryland<br />

<strong>The</strong> John Day Wild and Scenic<br />

River in central Oregon (Clarno<br />

to Cottonwood stretch) with<br />

bighorn sheep, smallmouth<br />

bass, Native American pictographs,<br />

and swallows and<br />

raptors in the basalt cliffs is<br />

extra special. Sometimes I’m<br />

so overwhelmed by the beauty<br />

paddling down this beautiful,<br />

remote river that I tear<br />

up. Multi-day river trips with<br />

friends are my favorite mode<br />

of travel; since my canoe carries<br />

my gear, it’s much easier<br />

to escape into roadless areas<br />

than backpacking!<br />

Lana Lindstrom<br />

Retired finance manager<br />

Eugene, Oregon<br />

© Gail Patrick<br />

10 1-800-THE-WILD


Harbingers of<br />

Climate Change<br />

Acreek runs just below my house in Little Rock,<br />

and from the trees along it I often hear the<br />

buzzy call of an Eastern Phoebe. Despite its<br />

drab gray plumage, this small flycatcher is popular<br />

even among casual birdwatchers, both for its propensity<br />

to nest near (and even on) our houses and for its<br />

helpful habit of constantly identifying itself with its call: a<br />

scratchy, insistent fee-bee.<br />

In the past, I would have expected to hear the<br />

phoebe less and less frequently as fall progressed.<br />

Most birds in the flycatcher family flee our winter for the<br />

tropics, where the invertebrates they eat aren’t stilled by<br />

cold weather.<br />

Something has changed, though. Now, even<br />

in winter, I often hear that buzzy fee-bee in<br />

the woods. To confirm my anecdotal<br />

experience, I checked the past<br />

five decades of records<br />

of the Little Rock<br />

<strong>The</strong> Blackthroated<br />

Blue Warbler<br />

is expected<br />

to lose a<br />

significant<br />

amount of its<br />

prime habitat.<br />

Illustration by David Sibley<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

By MEL WHITE<br />

Christmas Bird Count (CBC), one of a series of midwinter<br />

censuses held across the continent. Sure enough, from<br />

typical Eastern Phoebe counts of zero or one in the 1960s<br />

and 1970s, the most recent decade has seen an average<br />

count of seven, including a high of 13.<br />

Our lingering phoebes hardly rank as an aberration.<br />

A 2009 report from the National Audubon <strong>Society</strong><br />

analyzed four decades of CBC data and determined<br />

that 58 percent of bird species had shifted their winter<br />

ranges northward; more than 60 species were found to<br />

be wintering more than 100 miles north of their historical<br />

ranges. While factors such as increased bird feeding<br />

may play a part, sunflower seeds alone can’t explain this<br />

phenomenon.<br />

Something has changed, all right: We’re experiencing<br />

a long-term trend of higher temperatures, and<br />

birds are reflecting that fact in their practical responses.<br />

Migration requires energy and brings multiple dangers.<br />

If a bird can travel south in fall only 500 miles instead of<br />

800 and still find the food, habitat, and survivable climate<br />

it needs, why should it go farther? If earlier-warming<br />

spring temperatures stir a Gray Catbird wintering<br />

on the Gulf Coast, why shouldn’t it fly north<br />

toward its Ontario home and get a head<br />

start on nesting?<br />

With so much else to worry<br />

about regarding climate change,<br />

some might look at birds<br />

and ask: Is there a problem<br />

here? Carolina Wrens<br />

now nest in upstate<br />

New York, where they<br />

once weren’t found. People in<br />

Alabama will see fewer Purple Finches in<br />

winter, but people in Michigan will see more. Species<br />

get in the elevator, move up a floor, and live happily ever<br />

after. Right?<br />

11


© Andreas Kanon<br />

© Flickr/Kelly Colgan Azar<br />

© Larry Master/masterimages.org<br />

12 1-800-THE-WILD<br />

© Mary Curtis © Larry Master/masterimages.org


On the highest mountains in the Northeast, summer hikers<br />

might hear an oddly beautiful song that seems to combine<br />

harsh chattering with echoing flute-like trills. Those<br />

lucky enough to spot the singer will see a dull brownish<br />

bird a little smaller than an American Robin, skulking in<br />

dense growth of balsam fir. This high-elevation environment<br />

is home to the Bicknell’s Thrush, one of the rarest<br />

birds in the United States and quite possibly the avian<br />

species in this country most at risk from global climate<br />

change.<br />

As the climate warms, vegetation zones move up<br />

mountain slopes, with hardwoods replacing conifers, the<br />

composition of coniferous forests changing, and the tree<br />

line rising. “<strong>The</strong> future doesn’t look good for Bicknell’s<br />

Thrush,” Wellesley College ecologist Dr. Nicholas L.<br />

Rodenhouse says. “It’s a bird of high-elevation forest in<br />

the United States, and that forest is expected to basically<br />

disappear with climate change.”<br />

Rodenhouse headed a 2006 study that showed that<br />

even under best-case scenarios of global warming, habitat<br />

for Bicknell’s Thrush would be reduced at least 50<br />

percent in the United States, and the species could disappear<br />

as a breeder in New York and Vermont. Though<br />

Bicknell’s Thrush nests at lower elevations in Canada, the<br />

climate elevator offers no more stops for this bird in the<br />

United States; it’s already on the top floor.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Search for Solutions<br />

Can anything be done<br />

to help birds—and other<br />

wildlife—survive climate<br />

change? <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong> has hired Dr. Peter<br />

McKinley, an ecologist<br />

and ornithologist, to help<br />

answer that question. “We<br />

should try to buy time,”<br />

he says, “by identifying,<br />

and then protecting, landscapes<br />

that will change<br />

more slowly and that have<br />

high biological diversity.<br />

That would at least present<br />

the future with an<br />

opportunity to reassemble<br />

ecological systems.”<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

McKinley points to<br />

populations of Bicknell’s<br />

Thrush that use small,<br />

regenerating spruce<br />

and fir farther down the<br />

mountain in some parts<br />

of their range in addition<br />

to the alpine spruce and<br />

fir predicted to disappear<br />

under warmer conditions.<br />

“Biological variability,<br />

especially genetic variation,<br />

is a wonderful thing,”<br />

he says, “and maintaining<br />

it as long as possible in<br />

as many places as possible<br />

is an important part<br />

of the research program<br />

we are building at <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>The</strong> Rodenhouse study also looked at the Blackthroated<br />

Blue Warbler, a small songbird that nests across<br />

much of the northeastern United States and southeastern<br />

Canada. Less demanding in its habitat requirements than<br />

Bicknell’s Thrush, the warbler would seem to be safe for<br />

now from serious climate-change threats.<br />

But this warbler thrives best in areas where a mix of<br />

hardwoods and understory shrubs provides high levels<br />

of invertebrate prey. <strong>The</strong> Rodenhouse study showed that<br />

a warmer climate would result in a loss of a significant<br />

amount of prime habitat, leading to lower populations<br />

over much of the warbler’s range. Black-throated Blue<br />

Warbler was chosen for the study because it is considered<br />

representative of the region’s birds, and after examining<br />

various predictions for climate change, the report ominously<br />

concluded: “[W]e are unaware of any scenarios in<br />

which the effects of such interacting disturbances on the<br />

biological communities of the Northeast will promote the<br />

stability and viability of bird populations.”<br />

Conservation planning for migratory birds must consider<br />

more than just nesting ranges. “If you want to understand<br />

how climate change might influence birds in the future, you<br />

need to understand their exposure throughout the annual<br />

cycle, whether it’s in the tropics, during migration, or on the<br />

breeding grounds,” says Dr. Peter Marra, a scientist with the<br />

Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center.<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>.” We<br />

have scientists tackling<br />

this work from Maine,<br />

where McKinley is based,<br />

to Alaska.<br />

In addition, we are leaders<br />

in efforts to restore national<br />

forests and other lands<br />

damaged by industrial<br />

activities such as logging.<br />

Once restored, these<br />

places can provide better<br />

wildlife habitat and store<br />

more climate-changing<br />

carbon. Public education<br />

is another high priority for<br />

our climate team because<br />

an aroused citizenry is<br />

necessary to enact strong<br />

laws and change behavior.<br />

For example, we are<br />

producing reports on the<br />

best carbon-storing public<br />

forests in each state.<br />

Of course, the work we<br />

have been doing every<br />

day since 1935 to protect<br />

land pays important dividends<br />

by limiting climate<br />

change and offering<br />

plants and wildlife a better<br />

chance to adapt. For<br />

more on <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong>’s effort, visit:<br />

http://wilderness.org/campaigns/global-warming.<br />

Among the many species of birds that may suffer as the climate changes are, clockwise from top left, Black-throated Blue Warbler,<br />

Bicknell’s Thrush, Gray Jay, Common Loon, and young American Redstart.<br />

13


Bicknell’s thrush migration routes<br />

Both Bicknell’s Thrush and Black-throated Blue<br />

Warbler winter primarily in the Greater Antilles in the<br />

Caribbean, where climate change brings a different set<br />

of environmental concerns. “Change is happening in the<br />

tropics, and there it’s not just temperature; it’s also the influence<br />

of precipitation,” Marra says. “Major droughts are<br />

occurring in the Caribbean, and are predicted to continue<br />

over the next 30 to 50 years.” Marra’s studies on wintering<br />

American Redstarts in the Caribbean have shown that<br />

the amount of winter precipitation directly influences the<br />

birds’ physical condition when departing in the spring for<br />

North America. “<strong>The</strong> abundance of redstarts throughout<br />

their breeding range is influenced more by winter climate<br />

than it is by breeding climate,” Marra says.<br />

Climate change threatens birds in ways that few<br />

could have predicted. <strong>The</strong> Gray Jay, a bird of the boreal<br />

forests of North America, depends for winter survival on<br />

food cached in fall. Warmer autumn temperatures cause<br />

this stored food to rot, diminishing breeding success the<br />

following spring. <strong>The</strong> Common Loon, an iconic waterbird<br />

of the North, has evolved to leave the freshwater lakes<br />

where it nests before a winter molt that leaves it flightless;<br />

warmer temperatures cause loons to delay their migration,<br />

so that when freezing weather does come they are<br />

trapped, unable to fly or find food.<br />

Though it’s probably true that it will be decades before<br />

significant numbers of bird species become endangered<br />

or suffer wide-scale extirpation as a direct result<br />

© Courtesy of the Vermont Center for Ecostudies<br />

“Change the temperature and that<br />

changes everything. It doesn’t do it<br />

instantaneously. It’s going to do it<br />

in fits and starts: ice storms in the<br />

Northeast, fires in the Southeast,<br />

drought in many areas.”<br />

of global climate change, it seems increasingly likely that<br />

serious impacts reducing biodiversity will show up long<br />

before that point. Populations of vulnerable species will<br />

decline, in some cases substantially. Species composition<br />

of birds and other organisms will change, as will complex<br />

ecological interactions, with unknown environmental<br />

consequences.<br />

“We’re changing the basic way the climate works on<br />

the planet,” Rodenhouse says. “Change the temperature<br />

and that changes everything. It doesn’t do it instantaneously.<br />

It’s going to do it in fits and starts: ice storms<br />

in the Northeast, fires in the Southeast, drought in many<br />

areas. <strong>The</strong>re’s going to be a period of tremendous variability<br />

as all these changes occur. What’s going to come<br />

out at the other end is going to be so dramatically different<br />

that we can’t even speculate.”<br />

David Moulton is <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>’s director<br />

of climate change policy and a life-long birder. “In the<br />

past,” he points out, “a lone canary could issue a clear<br />

warning of dangerous gases by dropping dead in a mine<br />

shaft. When will we heed the warning of entire species<br />

facing extinction due to greenhouse gases?”<br />

<strong>The</strong> phoebes wintering near my home are sending<br />

us a clear message, as are the Carolina Wrens nesting<br />

in New York and the waterfowl that no longer fly so far<br />

south in the fall. Our climate is changing with a speed<br />

that could strain or snap vital strands in the web of planetary<br />

life—the relationships that sustain all of Earth’s organisms,<br />

including ourselves.<br />

Mel White is a freelance writer in Little<br />

Rock, Arkansas, and specializes in travel<br />

and natural history. He has written for<br />

National Geographic, Audubon, Living Bird,<br />

and Outside, and his books include<br />

National Geographic Complete National<br />

Parks of the United States.<br />

© Hope Coulter<br />

14 1-800-THE-WILD


<strong>The</strong> Final Frontier<br />

By Marilyn Berlin Snell<br />

© Kevin Smith/AlaskaStock.com<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

15


LONG BEFORE ALASKA BECAME A<br />

STATE IN 1959, THE TERRITORY’S VAST<br />

RESOURCES—INCLUDING GOLD,<br />

WHALES, FISH, AND SEA OTTER PELTS—<br />

HAD LURED PROSPECTORS INTO VAST<br />

AND SPECTACULAR TERRAIN.<br />

Today’s booty is even farther north, in the federal waters<br />

of the Arctic Ocean’s Outer Continental Shelf (OCS),<br />

which begins three miles offshore. Beneath the icy, turbulent,<br />

and fog-bound Chukchi and Beaufort seas lie potentially<br />

rich oil and gas deposits.<br />

Alaska Senator Lisa Murkowski (R) calls it America’s<br />

“last great frontier” and is a vocal advocate for development.<br />

Conservation groups and Native communities<br />

dependent on the ocean for sustenance have fought to<br />

keep drilling at bay. <strong>The</strong> region is vital to orca and beluga<br />

whales, ringed and bearded seals, and walrus. It’s a key<br />

migratory route for the endangered bowhead whale. All<br />

of the nation’s polar bears, already threatened by melting<br />

ice, live there, too.<br />

Unless <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> and its partners can secure<br />

a victory before all the decisions to allow drilling are<br />

finalized, Royal Dutch Shell will begin drilling exploratory<br />

wells in the Beaufort in 2012 and in the Chukchi in 2013.<br />

“Even if you think it’s okay to drill for oil and gas<br />

when the planet’s climate already is changing at a frightening<br />

pace,” said<br />

Lois Epstein, <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>’s<br />

Arctic program director,<br />

“these projects<br />

raise two fundamental<br />

questions. First, what<br />

would the drilling do<br />

to the marine mammals,<br />

sea and bird life,<br />

and Native communities<br />

that depend on<br />

this fragile ecosystem?<br />

Second, when there<br />

is a major spill, what will the damage be? We just don’t<br />

have the answers.” Epstein also pointed to a need to<br />

update scientific surveys done a quarter century ago because<br />

“we need, at a minimum, a baseline understanding<br />

of the biology and ecology of the Arctic Ocean.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> health of marine mammals and other sea life is of<br />

paramount importance in the Inupiat village of Point Hope.<br />

“We are on a spit and have the Chukchi on the north, west,<br />

and south sides of us,” said Mae Hank. “During the summer<br />

we fish. Wintertime, the men hunt seals off the point<br />

on the west side. Spring they hunt whales and walrus.” <strong>The</strong><br />

grandmother of eight added, “Energy companies have no<br />

legitimate way to clean up a spill.”<br />

Since the 1968 discovery of oil in Prudhoe Bay on<br />

Alaska’s North Slope, energy companies, including BP,<br />

have worked in state waters near shore in the Beaufort Sea.<br />

Dr. Dana Wetzel has been studying the area for 11 years<br />

through grants from the Environmental Protection Agency,<br />

the state of Alaska, and the North Slope Borough, made<br />

up of eight Native villages. Wetzel, an ecotoxicologist from<br />

Florida’s Mote Marine Laboratory, has focused on oil accumulation<br />

in marine mammals and fish near Prudhoe Bay.<br />

Thus far, she has found “very little,” she said.<br />

But, Wetzel added, “I think anybody would say that<br />

there is a danger to a lot of different sea life” from oil exploration<br />

and production. “<strong>The</strong> question is: What strategies<br />

are in place to deal with a spill or, even before that,<br />

what regulations are<br />

in place to ensure<br />

“We have extremely limited Arctic response<br />

capabilities,” Admiral Robert J. Papp, Jr.,<br />

testified... “We do not have any infrastructure<br />

on the North Slope to hangar our aircraft,<br />

moor our boats or sustain our crews. I have<br />

only one operational icebreaker.”<br />

that a spill doesn’t<br />

happen?” In the<br />

event of an accident,<br />

Wetzel said, “I’m not<br />

sure how you’d clean<br />

oil off ice, for starters.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are just<br />

a lot of unknowns. It<br />

becomes very scary<br />

to even contemplate<br />

that sort of scenario.”<br />

Noise is another<br />

concern. Marine mammals and fish rely on sounds<br />

to find food and mates, to avoid predators, and to communicate.<br />

Dr. John A. Hildebrand studies marine bioacoustics<br />

at the University of California, San Diego’s<br />

Scripps Institution of Oceanography. Since 2006 he has<br />

been conducting studies for the Alaska Department of<br />

Fish and Game in the Chukchi Sea.<br />

16 1-800-THE-WILD


© Patrick J. Endres/AlaskaPhotoGraphics.com<br />

“It gets much noisier when seismic exploration is taking<br />

place,” said Hildebrand. Humans need ear protection<br />

for sound above 80 decibels (dB), and Hildebrand’s<br />

group detected sounds of 250 dB when the air guns<br />

used for seismic exploration were fired. “You can’t go<br />

out and put ear protection on whales.”<br />

Hildebrand’s group has confirmed, however, that<br />

the Chukchi’s seabed in the area targeted for exploration<br />

is both shallow and flat. “Because of that flat continental<br />

shelf, when you make sounds like the air guns it propagates<br />

a long way. That means that you could be 100 miles<br />

away and you’d still hear it.”<br />

Just how difficult would it be to drill in these waters?<br />

Drill rigs and wells would be subject to the Arctic<br />

Ocean’s ice, high winds, and strong currents. During the<br />

approximately 100 summer days of open water, when exploratory<br />

drilling would occur, ice floes and icebergs pose<br />

a danger. Moving ice four miles wide has been seen in<br />

the Beaufort. In the Chukchi, Hank has seen two-story ice<br />

ridges—formed when currents smash ice floes into each<br />

other. How an offshore platform and its pipelines would<br />

fare in an encounter with what scientists call “an extreme<br />

ice feature” is still not fully known.<br />

And if a spill occurred? <strong>The</strong> Beaufort lies north of the<br />

North Slope’s Prudhoe Bay, which has basic infrastructure<br />

and could serve as a rudimentary staging area. However,<br />

much of the Beaufort coastline does not. <strong>The</strong> Chukchi,<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

Chukchi Sea<br />

Point<br />

Hope<br />

Arctic Ocean<br />

Wainwright<br />

Barrow<br />

Beaufort Sea<br />

National Petroleum Reserve–Alaska<br />

Prudhoe Bay<br />

N O R T H S L O P E<br />

Colville River<br />

ALASKA<br />

Pacic<br />

Ocean<br />

Detail<br />

ALASKA<br />

Kaktovik<br />

Trans Alaska<br />

Pipeline<br />

Arctic National<br />

Wildlife Refuge<br />

© Joel Garlich-Miller/USFWS<br />

<strong>The</strong> entire U.S. population of polar bears, already facing grave<br />

challenges as the ice pack shrinks, is found along Alaska’s<br />

northern coast and would be in greater jeopardy if drilling<br />

occurs in the Beaufort and Chukchi seas. Among other species<br />

that could be harmed is the walrus.<br />

off Alaska’s northwest coast, is remote, essentially undeveloped,<br />

and lacks basic infrastructure. (If oil is extracted<br />

from the Chukchi, it probably would run through a proposed<br />

280-mile pipeline crossing the National Petroleum<br />

Reserve-Alaska, which contains biologically sensitive wilderness,<br />

and hook up to the Trans Alaska Pipeline.)<br />

<strong>The</strong> U.S. Coast Guard would be responsible for<br />

cleanup in the Arctic Ocean, and its base nearest to the<br />

drilling sites is in Kodiak, more than 1,000 miles away.<br />

“We have extremely limited Arctic response capabilities,”<br />

Admiral Robert J. Papp, Jr., testified before a U.S. Senate<br />

subcommittee in August. “We do not have any infrastructure<br />

on the North Slope to hangar our aircraft, moor our<br />

boats or sustain our crews. I have only one operational<br />

icebreaker.”<br />

Brenda Pierce, program coordinator of the Energy<br />

Resources Program at the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS),<br />

co-authored a report on oil spill preparedness if drilling<br />

were allowed in the Arctic Ocean. <strong>The</strong> survey of 400 scientific<br />

publications and science policy documents on the<br />

17


ON SHORE, THE ARCTIC REFUGE REMAINS AT RISK<br />

<strong>The</strong> Beaufort Sea lies perilously close to the biological<br />

heart of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge—the coastal<br />

plain that is the calving ground of the 170,000-member<br />

caribou herd that migrates there each spring. This area also<br />

is vital to grizzlies, polar bears, wolves, muskoxen (an animal<br />

that dates back to the Ice Age), and millions of migratory<br />

songbirds and waterfowl that nest there.<br />

<strong>The</strong> oil industry has been lobbying for decades for the<br />

chance to drill the coastal plain, and the industry’s political<br />

allies have pushed hard in Congress for such authorization.<br />

Arctic found a lot of “really good studies” but also some<br />

“still-glaring holes,” she said in an interview.<br />

Shell spokesman Curtis Smith criticized the USGS<br />

report. “We think it falls far short of acknowledging the<br />

data and expertise that exists today,” he said, adding that<br />

Shell is ready to move forward safely in the Arctic. “In<br />

the unlikely event of an oil spill, what we saw in the Gulf<br />

(of Mexico) is not something we’d ever want to pursue: a<br />

number of small vessels chasing ribbons of oil. That’s why<br />

our oil spill response plan is predicated on being on site<br />

immediately.”<br />

Smith acknowledged that the Arctic is a “very harsh,<br />

remote” environment and that if Shell had a spill it<br />

couldn’t just call the Coast Guard. “You have to bring everything<br />

with you. That’s been our plan all along.” A fleet<br />

of 16 to 20 large oil-spill responders would circle the drill<br />

ship 24/7, Smith said.<br />

He pointed out that BP’s Deepwater Horizon rig was<br />

drilling at 5,000 feet under high pressure in the Gulf of<br />

Mexico. Shell would be drilling in 120 to 150 feet of water<br />

on the Arctic’s shallow OCS. “<strong>The</strong> wells we want to drill in<br />

Alaska are considered very straightforward,” Smith said.<br />

But Epstein, an engineer who has been appointed to<br />

a federal advisory committee on offshore drilling, pointed<br />

to a 2009 shallow-water blowout in Australia that gushed<br />

for ten weeks. Attempts to cap the well, at a depth of 240<br />

Working with many partners, <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> has<br />

been able to turn aside every bill.<br />

We are supporting S. 33 and H.R. 139, which would add<br />

the coastal plain to the National <strong>Wilderness</strong> Preservation<br />

System—and thus bar drilling in this unique place. In August<br />

the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service’s new draft management<br />

plan for the refuge opened the door to considering a<br />

wilderness recommendation for the coastal plain. This is a<br />

positive step, but the decision to actually designate the land<br />

as wilderness rests with Congress.<br />

feet, failed, and millions of gallons of oil spewed into the<br />

ocean. Another red flag was the August 2011 offshore<br />

pipeline spill near Scotland in the North Sea. That was a<br />

Shell operation, and the company’s response was widely<br />

viewed as sub-par.<br />

Ultimately, Epstein contended, the decisions on<br />

whether to drill in the Beaufort and Chukchi may say something<br />

about society’s values. Are we more focused on the<br />

long term, or the short term? Is the oil worth the risk of<br />

potentially undermining the traditional ways of Native<br />

communities like Point Hope? Are we prepared to take on<br />

the challenges posed by climate change? <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong>, Hank, and others are determined to defend northern<br />

Alaska, but they face equally determined opponents.<br />

Marilyn Berlin Snell is a San Franciscobased<br />

journalist. Her work has appeared<br />

in Discover, <strong>The</strong> New Republic, and <strong>The</strong><br />

New York Times. In 2004, she teamed<br />

with ABC’s “Primetime” to produce<br />

a TV version of her investigation of<br />

a U.S.-based company’s payments<br />

to terrorists in the Philippines. <strong>The</strong><br />

program was nominated for an Emmy.<br />

© A.S. Hamrah<br />

18 1-800-THE-WILD<br />

© Lincoln Else


© Steven Kazlowski/AlaskaStock.com<br />

Native communities along Alaska’s northern coast depend on whales and other sea life.<br />

“Not worth the risk”<br />

Point Hope, population 674, lies on a gravel spit that<br />

juts several miles into the Chukchi Sea. One of the<br />

oldest continuously occupied Inupiat Eskimo areas in<br />

Alaska, its residents (Tikeraqmuit Inupiat Eskimos)<br />

depend on fishing and whaling for survival.<br />

Mayor George Kingik says that anything that<br />

threatens his constituents’ way of life is not worth the<br />

risk. “<strong>The</strong> whole community depends on our ocean,<br />

so that’s what we need to protect. I’m just going to tell<br />

you: We go against the drilling issue here.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> Inupiat have learned over thousands of years<br />

how to hunt in the Chukchi and Beaufort seas, but<br />

Kingik does not believe drilling companies under-<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

stand the challenges. “<strong>The</strong> Arctic is different than<br />

the Lower 48,” he said. “We have strong currents, it’s<br />

always pretty rough up here.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> village of Point Hope is part of the North<br />

Slope Borough, which covers the entire North Slope<br />

region of Alaska and has its own governing body.<br />

Though Point Hope remains unwaveringly opposed<br />

to drilling, Curtis Smith noted that Shell has successfully<br />

built “partnerships” with others, including the<br />

North Slope Borough. Some Natives have concluded<br />

that potential economic gains outweigh the risks to<br />

the natural world.<br />

—Marilyn Berlin Snell<br />

19


Why I Sold My Land<br />

to the American People<br />

Steve Currier wanted his family’s campground<br />

on Cape Cod to be there for future campers.<br />

by kathy shorr<br />

In 1953, when Steve Currier was seven, his father bought 57<br />

acres of land in Truro, Massachusetts, near the tip of Cape Cod.<br />

Land was plentiful and cheap then. <strong>The</strong> scrubby pitch pines<br />

were the size of small bushes, and the dirt road was so rutted<br />

you needed a dune buggy to make it out to the beach.<br />

20 1-800-THE-WILD<br />

© Cheryl Currier


Currier’s uncle spent the winter creating paths<br />

and tent sites, and in 1954 the family opened<br />

the North of Highland Camping Area. “We’d<br />

get 40 people packed in there on a hot day in<br />

July,” remembers Currier. “We had a little cabin,<br />

and the office was in a separate building.”<br />

Today, the pine trees have outgrown the<br />

telephone poles; the rutted buggy track is<br />

smooth asphalt; and an air-conditioned building<br />

holds both Currier’s house and office. But<br />

the campground is remarkably unchanged.<br />

Families still arrive each year to pitch tents,<br />

cook their meals on small charcoal grills, and<br />

walk a narrow dirt path four-tenths of a mile to<br />

the wide, sandy beach and rolling surf of the<br />

Atlantic Ocean.<br />

<strong>The</strong> campground sits inside the Cape Cod<br />

National Seashore, authorized by Congress<br />

eight years after the Curriers bought the land<br />

and now one of the National Park System’s<br />

most-visited parks. About four million people<br />

come to this narrow peninsula each year, but<br />

campgrounds are increasingly hard to find.<br />

Rising land values and real estate<br />

taxes have led many owners<br />

to sell for development; even in<br />

a real estate recession, a typical<br />

house lot in Truro runs $350,000.<br />

Steve Currier is not your typical<br />

landowner. Now 65, he still<br />

operates the campground his<br />

father started. “Seventy-five to<br />

80% of our campers are repeat<br />

customers,” says Currier. “One<br />

woman I played with when I<br />

was nine—she’s only missed two<br />

years in 56 years.”<br />

It was people like her that<br />

made Currier determined to<br />

keep the campground going—<br />

even though impending retirement<br />

and lack of interest from<br />

family members in taking over<br />

the business were pressuring him<br />

to sell. <strong>The</strong> line of potential buyers<br />

for such a choice location was long. “We’ve<br />

been really good neighbors with the national<br />

park for some time, and they were the first ones<br />

I called,” says Currier, who placed that call in<br />

2004. “I really did not want to see everything<br />

we’d done for 50 years end up in house lots.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> Park Service was eager to deal. “<strong>The</strong><br />

long-term protection of this large parcel for a<br />

combination of camping and conservation purposes<br />

made this our highest priority acquisition,”<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

says CCNS Superintendent George Price. In<br />

fact, Park Service land managers had identified<br />

it as the highest priority for the Northeast.<br />

Unfortunately, park superintendents do not<br />

have money in their budgets to take advantage<br />

of such opportunities. Instead, the Park Service,<br />

U.S. Forest Service, and other federal agencies<br />

that manage the public’s property rely on the<br />

Land and Water Conservation Fund. Created<br />

by Congress in 1965, LWCF receives $900 million<br />

a year from the royalties that oil companies<br />

pay for the chance to drill in offshore waters.<br />

When Congress makes its annual appropriations,<br />

it decides which proposed land acquisitions<br />

will be funded.<br />

To make the case for the campground,<br />

Congressman William Delahunt (D-MA), who<br />

represented the Cape at that time, teamed up<br />

with the late Senator Edward Kennedy (D-MA).<br />

“Part of what the National Seashore was about<br />

was creating public access for recreation,” says<br />

Delahunt, who now has a public policy consulting<br />

firm. “You’re on some of the most expen-<br />

© Jerry and Marcy Monkman © Cheryl Currier<br />

sive real estate, right by the ocean. But this is<br />

about continuing a tradition that goes back to<br />

the 1600s, a connection to people living on the<br />

land. Generations of people slept under the<br />

stars here 400 years ago. To cut some wood,<br />

make a fire, walk the beaches, you experience<br />

the full measure of human history. To lose that<br />

would be tragic.”<br />

Obtaining the appropriations usually takes<br />

time—a lot of time, in many cases. To ensure<br />

Sen. Ted Kennedy<br />

(seated) and U.S.<br />

Rep. Delahunt<br />

(to Kennedy’s<br />

left) championed<br />

the funding<br />

needed to save<br />

the campground<br />

from potential<br />

development. It<br />

has been a fixture<br />

on the Cape for<br />

more than half a<br />

century.<br />

21


In millions ($)<br />

20,000<br />

18,000<br />

16,000<br />

14,000<br />

12,000<br />

10,000<br />

8,000<br />

6,000<br />

4,000<br />

2,000<br />

459<br />

LWCF Funds and Offshore Energy Revenue FY00−FY10<br />

4,546<br />

0<br />

FY00 FY01<br />

LWCF Funds<br />

Offshore Energy Revenue<br />

563<br />

7,498<br />

573<br />

4,136<br />

FY02<br />

413<br />

5,934<br />

FY03<br />

272<br />

5,348<br />

FY04<br />

259<br />

6,325<br />

FY05<br />

144<br />

7,607<br />

FY06<br />

138<br />

7,019<br />

FY07<br />

155<br />

18,045<br />

FY08<br />

180<br />

5,819<br />

FY09<br />

Close to home<br />

While the Land and Water Conservation Fund (LWCF) focuses on additions to national parks,<br />

national wildlife refuges, and other lands owned by all Americans, a portion of it is made available<br />

as 50-50 matching grants to enable communities, counties, and states to acquire natural areas and<br />

build recreational facilities. More than 41,000 projects—including playgrounds, swimming pools,<br />

ball fields, parks, and trails—have resulted. This is the federal government’s primary investment<br />

tool for ensuring that kids and their families have close-to-home recreation opportunities.<br />

It is almost impossible to find a county that has not benefited. Projects include:<br />

Satellite Beach, Florida:<br />

LWCF funds helped acquire<br />

Hightower Beach Park,<br />

which features a halfmile<br />

of ocean beach, an<br />

ecologically important dune<br />

system, a nature trail, and<br />

habitat for nesting green<br />

and loggerhead turtles.<br />

LaGrange County, Indiana:<br />

Boy Scouts are among<br />

those who enjoy the trails<br />

that run through woodlands<br />

and wetlands at Pine Knob<br />

Park, which also has a 3-D<br />

archery course.<br />

Each year Congress decides how much of LWCF’s revenue to appropriate for these matching<br />

grants, and that total is then allocated to the states on the basis of population. Unfortunately,<br />

the appropriations declined from $92.5 million in 2005 to $40 million in 2011. “This is incredibly<br />

shortsighted,” says <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>’s Alan Rowsome. “With obesity and diabetes at record<br />

levels, for adults and children, we should be doing more, not less, to enable our citizens to get<br />

outside and exercise.”<br />

366<br />

5,254<br />

FY10<br />

In 2010, the Department of the Interior collected approximately $5.2 billion<br />

from offshore energy production, but only $306 million, or about seven<br />

percent of that revenue, was set aside to protect America’s land and water.<br />

that the campground wouldn’t be sold for development<br />

in the meantime, <strong>The</strong> Trust for Public<br />

Land (TPL), a nonprofit, provided some funds,<br />

legal guidance, and other assistance. “<strong>The</strong><br />

park’s original intent was to purchase the land<br />

outright, but ultimately Steve Currier opted to<br />

sell a conservation easement, allowing him to<br />

continue to operate the campground and to<br />

keep the property in the family,” says Darci<br />

Schofield, who managed the project for TPL.<br />

<strong>The</strong> terms allow Currier to sell the land someday<br />

and the new owner to make upgrades for<br />

campers, but the land cannot be developed.<br />

It took six years from the day that Kennedy<br />

and Delahunt went to work until Currier sat<br />

down to sign the papers, in March 2010. <strong>The</strong><br />

long grind was due to the usual protracted process<br />

on Capitol Hill and to resolution of management<br />

issues, including the change to the<br />

easement. “Steve Currier needed to be really<br />

patient to make this work,” says Schofield. “His<br />

Battle Ground, Washington:<br />

With LWCF help, Clark<br />

County was able to acquire<br />

64 acres of uplands and<br />

riparian wetlands at the<br />

confluence of Salmon and<br />

Morgan creeks for the<br />

Salmon Creek Greenspace.<br />

North Bass Island, Ottawa<br />

County, Ohio: On the last<br />

large, undeveloped island<br />

in Lake Erie LWCF is making<br />

it possible for the public to<br />

enjoy camping, picnicking,<br />

swimming, boating, hiking,<br />

hunting, and fishing across<br />

357 acres.<br />

22 1-800-THE-WILD


commitment to conservation was outstanding.”<br />

“<strong>The</strong>re’s a constant scramble to find the<br />

money—and find it fast enough—to protect<br />

places like Cape Cod National Seashore,” says<br />

Alan Rowsome, director of conservation funding<br />

for <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>. Congress has<br />

rarely allowed the full amount of the royalties<br />

flowing into the LWCF account to be invested<br />

as intended, instead diverting the money to<br />

other programs. In today’s economy, the situation<br />

is even worse. LWCF appropriations for<br />

Fiscal Year 2011 were just $301 million, a 37<br />

percent drop from the previous year. <strong>The</strong> level<br />

for FY12 was not known at press time but could<br />

well be lower still.<br />

“We’re betraying a legacy of the Teddy<br />

Roosevelts of this country, and their recognition<br />

of what the wilderness and the connection<br />

to the Earth mean in human terms,” says<br />

Delahunt. “It’s going to require a different type<br />

of Tea Party to understand the meaning of our<br />

Waiting, waiting, still waiting…<br />

Many places around the country have<br />

benefitted from purchases made possible by<br />

the Land and Water Conservation Fund. Below<br />

are four high-priority and threatened properties<br />

that have been waiting for LWCF funding, in<br />

some cases for several years.<br />

Simpsonwood property,<br />

Chattahoochee River<br />

National Recreation Area,<br />

Georgia: About three<br />

million people a year enjoy<br />

this national recreation<br />

area near Atlanta, which<br />

provides an important green<br />

corridor for recreation and<br />

protection of the river in a<br />

fast-growing metro area.<br />

<strong>The</strong> 226-acre conference<br />

center and retreat has<br />

2,100 feet of riverfront and,<br />

if bought by a developer,<br />

could be developed into<br />

250 home sites. A National<br />

Park Service purchase<br />

would protect local drinking<br />

water quality while opening<br />

the site to the public for<br />

walking, biking, horseback<br />

riding, and other uses.<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

Ramirez Canyon, Santa<br />

Monica Mountains National<br />

Recreation Area, California:<br />

Ramirez Canyon is a<br />

6.16-acre inholding in the<br />

Santa Monica Mountains<br />

NRA, just northwest of Los<br />

Angeles. A trail connecting<br />

it to other areas takes you<br />

through shady oak and<br />

sycamore woods, home to<br />

quail, mule deer, and gray<br />

foxes. Despite its lushness,<br />

the area features a delicate<br />

ecosystem that the state<br />

has recommended for<br />

protection. It’s also prime<br />

L.A. real estate, and a<br />

developer has drawn up a<br />

proposal for subdivision.<br />

heritage. People like Steve Currier, working with<br />

public entities—they are extraordinary people,<br />

and what they are doing is so American.”<br />

Rowsome and <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> are<br />

leaders in the LWCF Coalition, which is fighting<br />

to pass a bill (S. 1265) that would permanently<br />

fund LWCF at its authorized level. He<br />

says that despite the budget battles, LWCF<br />

Crooked River Canyon,<br />

Crooked Wild and Scenic<br />

River Watershed, Oregon:<br />

White-water enthusiasts<br />

travel long distances for<br />

the chance to experience<br />

the rapids and incredible<br />

scenery of the Crooked<br />

River, which rushes through<br />

central Oregon’s high desert.<br />

Development around the<br />

101 acres for sale has limited<br />

public access to this stretch<br />

of river, and acquisition<br />

of this property would<br />

greatly enhance recreation<br />

opportunities.<br />

Continued on page 62<br />

Steve Currier, shown<br />

with his mother<br />

Evelyn, remained<br />

patient so that an<br />

agreement could be<br />

worked out with the<br />

National Park Service.<br />

Georgia’s Chattahoochee River offers first-rate recreation.<br />

© Flickr/Capt Kodak<br />

Wolf Island, Stony Point,<br />

Kremer Lake, and Fall Lake,<br />

Superior and Chippewa<br />

national forests, Minnesota:<br />

<strong>The</strong> 139 acres in these<br />

three properties are part<br />

of a 12,000-mile system<br />

of canoe trails that follow<br />

the paths that Native<br />

Americans and French<br />

Canadian fur traders took<br />

centuries ago. <strong>The</strong> purchase<br />

would protect access to<br />

some of the Northwoods’<br />

beautiful and secluded<br />

lakes throughout the year.<br />

23


Skiing In<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

Wonderlands<br />

By David Goodman<br />

“On skis, you slide silently into a world that is otherwise<br />

inaccessible, a fortunate traveler in a magical frozen landscape.<br />

You forget where you are, and who you are.”<br />

I<br />

learned to ski on family trips to a now-defunct resort in<br />

the Catskills of New York. I was motivated by the fun<br />

of riding the rope tow between my dad’s legs, and going<br />

downhill faster than my parents approved. Getting<br />

back to nature was not so important.<br />

By the time I was in college, I had grown disenchanted<br />

with the downhill ski scene, which I felt had become industrial,<br />

expensive, and boring. That’s when I discovered backcountry<br />

skiing. On skis, you slide silently into a world that is<br />

otherwise inaccessible, a fortunate traveler in a magical frozen<br />

landscape. You forget where you are, and who you are.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re is wilderness—and then there is wilderness<br />

in winter. <strong>The</strong> mundane becomes spectacular, and the<br />

familiar looks new. I was reminded of this recently when<br />

I skied through the Pemigewasset <strong>Wilderness</strong> in New<br />

Hampshire. Not 15 minutes beyond the wilderness boundary,<br />

I was suddenly navigating by my wits. Trail blazes vanished,<br />

and even the trail seemed to melt away beneath the<br />

snowy mantle. I stayed oriented by gliding along a frozen<br />

river, a beautiful, meandering passage through the wilds.<br />

At the end of a long day, I emerged from the wilderness,<br />

tired, thrilled, and invigorated by the feeling of skiing utterly<br />

alone through “land retaining its primeval character<br />

and influence…affected primarily by the forces of nature,”<br />

as the <strong>Wilderness</strong> Act of 1964 declares.<br />

Skiers have unique advantages in wilderness. Snow tells<br />

24 1-800-THE-WILD


© Howie Garber<br />

a story: Following fresh tracks in winter has led me to<br />

encounter moose, deer, and fox. <strong>The</strong> leafless forest<br />

opens up vistas in winter that may be obscured in summer,<br />

while skiing on frozen lakes and rivers can offer<br />

easy passage through challenging terrain.<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> skiing poses special challenges and is<br />

generally for more advanced intermediate skiers. All of<br />

the tours described here require proficiency navigating<br />

with minimal or no trail makings, and skiing in ungroomed<br />

snow. <strong>The</strong>re are also special hazards: Skiers,<br />

especially those in the western U.S., must be trained<br />

in avalanche awareness and assessment and carry avalanche<br />

rescue equipment if they are venturing into<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

Mill B-South Fork, Twin Peaks<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> in Utah’s Uinta-<br />

Wasatch-Cache National Forest<br />

slide-prone<br />

terrain (which includes<br />

a number of the<br />

tours noted here).<br />

Following are some of the nation’s<br />

best wilderness areas for backcountry skiing.<br />

Each wilderness has unique character, ranging from<br />

its views and terrain to the quality of snow. But all<br />

share the common bond of being places, as the Act<br />

poetically states, “where the earth and its community<br />

of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is<br />

a visitor who does not remain.”<br />

25


Great wilderness areas for backcountry skiing<br />

PEMIGEWASSET<br />

WILDERNESS,<br />

NEW HAMPSHIRE –<br />

At 45,818 acres, this is the<br />

largest federal wilderness<br />

area in the Northeast. It is<br />

one of the few places in New<br />

England where multiday<br />

ski trips can be undertaken<br />

without crossing roads.<br />

Highlights include gaining<br />

access to high-mountain<br />

ponds that are rarely visited<br />

in winter, spectacular views of<br />

the massive White Mountains,<br />

and a sense of isolation that is<br />

unusual in this heavily traveled<br />

region. One of my favorite day<br />

trips follows the <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

Trail as it runs alongside the<br />

gurgling Pemigewasset River.<br />

For experienced backcountry<br />

travelers, the 20-mile Pemi<br />

Traverse is an enduring – and<br />

beautiful – skiing journey.<br />

BOUNDARY WATERS<br />

CANOE AREA WILDERNESS,<br />

MINNESOTA – When the<br />

last paddlers drift away from<br />

northern Minnesota’s endless<br />

expanse of lakes known<br />

as the Boundary Waters,<br />

intrepid skiers glide in to take<br />

their place. Skiers can travel<br />

across the frozen lakes in<br />

this 810,000-acre wilderness,<br />

enjoying uninterrupted views<br />

to the horizon. Another<br />

option is the 28.8-kilometer<br />

Banadad Trail (banadad.<br />

org), three-fourths of which<br />

is within the wilderness area.<br />

<strong>The</strong> trail is groomed—which<br />

is unusual in wilderness—and<br />

it makes for fast and pleasant<br />

travel, especially when snow<br />

conditions are challenging.<br />

Several yurts and lodges lie on<br />

short spurs off the Banadad,<br />

so skiers can set out for<br />

several days carrying only day<br />

packs. <strong>The</strong> Banadad is part<br />

of Minnesota’s 200-kilometer<br />

Gunflint cross-country ski trail<br />

network, which offers many<br />

days and styles of skiing.<br />

ALPINE LAKES WILDERNESS,<br />

WASHINGTON – Just a<br />

45-minute drive from Seattle,<br />

this 392,000-acre wilderness<br />

beckons to skiers with its<br />

soaring crags, copious snowfall,<br />

and, of course, alpine lakes.<br />

<strong>The</strong> ski tour into Colchuck<br />

Lake, outside Leavenworth,<br />

is a classic. (It’s a three-hour<br />

drive to the trailhead from<br />

Seattle.) This beautiful lake,<br />

dwarfed by the towering rock<br />

flanks of Dragontail Peak, is<br />

also the gateway to the aptly<br />

named Enchantment Peaks.<br />

For more of a mountaineering<br />

experience, ski up the<br />

Colchuck Glacier to Colchuck<br />

Peak and enjoy 2,500 vertical<br />

feet of beautiful skiing. Lacing<br />

turns down through the rock<br />

spires “is reminiscent of skiing<br />

in Europe,” says local author<br />

Andy Dappen.<br />

© Barbara Young, courtesy of the Banadad Trail Association<br />

TWIN PEAKS WILDERNESS,<br />

UTAH – Shoehorned into the<br />

heart of Utah’s bustling ski<br />

country just above Salt Lake<br />

City is this serene 11,396-acre<br />

wilderness. It boasts the epic<br />

powder and stunning views<br />

that draw throngs to ski the<br />

Wasatch, sans the buzz of<br />

lifts, helicopters, and people.<br />

One of my favorite tours is<br />

just across the street from<br />

the Alta Ski Area, from where<br />

I’ve skied up over Cardiff<br />

Pass and Cardiac Ridge,<br />

dropping into Mill B South<br />

Fork, a broad river drainage<br />

flanked by stunning views<br />

of Dromedary and Sundial<br />

Peaks and Mt. Superior. I<br />

love the sensation of skiing<br />

away from the crowds and<br />

vanishing into the solitude of<br />

the wilderness.<br />

JOHN MUIR WILDERNESS,<br />

CALIFORNIA – <strong>The</strong> serrated<br />

skyline of the Sierra Crest<br />

is the backdrop for skiers in<br />

this 651,992-acre wilderness.<br />

Named for the wilderness<br />

advocate and founder of the<br />

Sierra Club, this dramatic<br />

landscape ranges from 4,000foot<br />

alpine meadows to peaks<br />

over 13,000 feet. <strong>The</strong> easiest<br />

entry is from Highway 395<br />

near Tom’s Place, where you<br />

can ski on a road groomed<br />

by Rock Creek Lodge<br />

(rockcreeklodge.com) to<br />

Mosquito Flat. From there, it<br />

is about a mile to Mack Lake,<br />

which is inside the wilderness.<br />

“You are treated to an<br />

amazing view of Little Lakes<br />

Valley with Bear Creek Spire<br />

crowning the Sierra Crest<br />

here,” raves Marcus Libkind, a<br />

long-time Sierra skier.<br />

A solitary skier takes<br />

in the silence of New<br />

Hampshire’s Pemigewasset<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong>, while two<br />

skiers sample the Banadad<br />

Trail in the Boundary<br />

Waters Canoe Area<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> in Minnesota.<br />

26 1-800-THE-WILD<br />

© Brian Mohr/EmberPhoto


©<br />

© Bradly J. Boner<br />

Skiers and others who enjoy winter recreation love the Jedediah<br />

Smith <strong>Wilderness</strong> on the south slope of the Tetons in Wyoming near<br />

Yellowstone National Park. Wildlife found in this wilderness area<br />

includes moose and wolverines.<br />

JEDEDIAH SMITH<br />

WILDERNESS, WYOMING –<br />

This 123,451-acre wilderness<br />

is home to some of the<br />

best and most accessible<br />

backcountry skiing in North<br />

America. Teton Pass (where<br />

you can park) is a mecca for<br />

backcountry skiers and riders,<br />

and “<strong>The</strong> Jed” is home to<br />

much of the coveted ski<br />

terrain. With its legendary<br />

champagne powder (totaling<br />

500 inches per year),<br />

spectacular views of the<br />

Tetons, broad open slopes,<br />

and easy access, <strong>The</strong> Jed is<br />

unrivaled. A classic tour is the<br />

descent from the summit of<br />

Mount Glory into Cold Creek,<br />

which lies in the wilderness.<br />

© Sue Minter<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

THREE SISTERS<br />

WILDERNESS, OREGON<br />

– <strong>The</strong> snowcapped Three<br />

Sisters (all exceeding 10,000<br />

feet) crown the eastern side of<br />

this 286,708-acre wilderness<br />

and are among the most<br />

prominent volcanoes in the<br />

Cascades. <strong>The</strong> tour on South<br />

Sister, which boasts nearly<br />

5,000 vertical feet of skiing, is<br />

a local favorite. It is easiest to<br />

reach in late spring and offers<br />

skiing into the summer.<br />

SAWTOOTH WILDERNESS,<br />

IDAHO – Hundreds of<br />

jagged peaks—42 over<br />

10,000 feet—form the<br />

skyline of this aptly named<br />

wilderness. Its 217,088 acres<br />

feature numerous alpine<br />

lakes and remarkable vistas.<br />

A yurt just outside the<br />

wilderness (sawtoothguides.<br />

com) provides a base for<br />

multiday ski tours around<br />

Williams Peak.<br />

David Goodman of Waterbury Center, Vermont, is a contributing<br />

writer for Mother Jones and the author of eight books, including<br />

three national bestsellers covering topics ranging from politics to<br />

skiing. His most recent is Best Backcountry Skiing in the Northeast:<br />

50 Classic Ski Tours in New England and New York.<br />

© Flickr/Olastuen<br />

MAROON BELLS-SNOWMASS<br />

WILDERNESS, COLORADO<br />

– Skiing in this 181,535-acre<br />

wilderness just outside Aspen<br />

“transports one back to a time<br />

when people were just visitors,”<br />

says Reid Haughey, president<br />

of <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> Land Trust.<br />

Numerous ski huts managed<br />

by the 10th Mountain Division<br />

Hut Association (huts.org) lie<br />

just outside the wilderness, and<br />

provide the chance to spend<br />

many days in the surrounding<br />

peaks by skiing from hut to hut.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Lindley Hut is perched at<br />

10,480 feet and lies closest to<br />

the wilderness.<br />

27


Bob Marshall<br />

(above) was<br />

one of <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong>’s<br />

founders, and<br />

the Montana<br />

wilderness area<br />

named for him is<br />

one of the most<br />

celebrated.<br />

This unequaled go-getter on the side of nature’s<br />

wild places also became a ghostly guide<br />

to a young writer struggling to find reconciliation<br />

with his home ground, in my case the scenic<br />

but harsh ranch country along Montana’s<br />

Rocky Mountain Front. Throughout my teenage<br />

years, the Bob Marshall <strong>Wilderness</strong> Area<br />

was practically a neighbor, although an upscale<br />

one, to the buffalo-grass benchlands where my<br />

family worked on sheep ranches. Just over the<br />

craggy horizon lay “<strong>The</strong> Bob,” the million-acre<br />

heart of the northern Rockies. But out of reach<br />

to the likes of us, fading remnants of the lariat<br />

proletariat; hired hands do not go on hikes nor<br />

pricey pack trips.<br />

Writing gave me my escape from that<br />

life and territory, and I only accidentally came<br />

across Bob Marshall the man when the Forest<br />

Service commissioned me to write the history<br />

<strong>The</strong> Bob<br />

and I,<br />

Under the<br />

Big Sky<br />

By Ivan Doig<br />

He was a child of privilege who<br />

played Lewis and Clark with his<br />

brother in Central Park. A neophyte<br />

forester who showed up in the West<br />

barely knowing how to use an axe. A<br />

U.S. Forest Service bureaucrat who<br />

fathered wilderness areas as we know<br />

them, and for good measure, pitched<br />

in as a key creator of <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong>. A one-of-a-kind explorer of<br />

his surroundings who could count like<br />

the devil and write like an angel. A<br />

marathon high-country hiker whose<br />

heart played out when he was 38. He<br />

was, lucky for us, Bob Marshall.<br />

of its Pacific Northwest Forest and Range Experiment<br />

Station. One of early forestry’s old<br />

woodsmen recalled him as the big-eared college<br />

kid, a summer hire new to Washington’s<br />

Cascade mountains and forests, who went at<br />

the task of thinning vine maple saplings by belting<br />

them as if trying to hit a home run, when all<br />

it took was a steady hand on each slender trunk<br />

and a quick clip with the axe. We can bet the<br />

eastern greenhorn learned in a hurry.<br />

Sightings of this sort continued as I went<br />

my way as a roving young magazine writer<br />

committed to the West and its story. In an obscure<br />

archival photo album in Missoula, I came<br />

across Marshall grinning in jodhpurs during<br />

his late 1920’s research station stint in Big Sky<br />

country. At the Bancroft Library in Berkeley, I<br />

delved into his field notebooks full of boggling<br />

counting mania: cusswords heard at a lumber<br />

28 1-800-THE-WILD


© Jeff L. Fox<br />

camp, miles hiked per day, number of pancakes<br />

consumed by visiting Forest Service bigwigs,<br />

on and on. His was the kind of inspired quirkiness<br />

dear to a writer’s heart, so perhaps it was a<br />

natural evolution for this curious historic figure<br />

who died the year I was born, 1939, to become<br />

something of an off-stage fellow compulsive in<br />

my own environmentally tilted journalistic life.<br />

...his irrefutable answer whenever<br />

asked how many wilderness areas<br />

this nation really needs: “How many<br />

Brahms symphonies do we need?”<br />

<strong>The</strong>n came the summer of 1977, when I returned<br />

to Montana with a book in mind. I had<br />

long stayed away, daunted by the loss of loved<br />

ones to that hard life under the shadow of the<br />

Rockies, but determined now to tell our family<br />

story. First, though, by whatever impulse that<br />

had been waiting 20 years, I pointed myself and<br />

my unflinching wife Carol into the Bob, the waiting<br />

wilderness area.<br />

Those memorable days on the trail, we knew<br />

even then, were unrepeatable; we were graced<br />

to have one such experience in a lifetime. Knifeedge<br />

ridge hiking took our breath in more ways<br />

than one, with views of the snowy ranks of the<br />

interior Rockies while a gorge with Yosemite-like<br />

domes waited below. <strong>The</strong> Montana sky as big as<br />

advertised. Fishing —and better yet, catching!—<br />

at a creek-side campsite. For 40 miles, about a<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

day’s walk for Bob Marshall, we cloud-walked<br />

back and forth across the Continental Divide. In<br />

five days we encountered not another living soul,<br />

except nature’s own.<br />

Out of this and much else that adventurous<br />

summer came This House of Sky: Landscapes of<br />

a Western Mind, a finalist for the National Book<br />

Award and still high among the most popular of<br />

my books. But as it turned out, I was not through<br />

with Bob Marshall and his namesake country, nor<br />

he and it with me. Subsequently my fictional Two<br />

Medicine trilogy focused on a Forest Service family<br />

in that inspirational neck of the woods, and<br />

perhaps inevitably, in a later novel, Mountain<br />

Time, as my modern characters hike into the Bob,<br />

who do you think shows up in the pages as a lasting<br />

presence, tireless as a shadow, on the trail?<br />

I shall always believe that not the least of<br />

Bob Marshall’s legacy was his irrefutable answer<br />

whenever asked how many wilderness areas this<br />

nation really needs: “How many Brahms symphonies<br />

do we need?” And now, in a climatestressed<br />

world, how many Bob Marshalls, in<br />

imagination and actuality,<br />

do we need? As<br />

many as fate and luck<br />

can ever give us.<br />

Ivan Doig is the author<br />

of 13 books, including<br />

his Two Medicine trilogy<br />

of English Creek, Dancing<br />

at the Rascal Fair, and<br />

Ride With Me, Mariah<br />

Montana.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Bob<br />

Marshall<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

runs along 60<br />

miles of the<br />

Continental<br />

Divide with<br />

elevations<br />

ranging from<br />

4,000 to 9,000<br />

feet. <strong>The</strong>re are<br />

more than 1,000<br />

miles of trails.<br />

© Carol M. Doig<br />

29


Q&A<br />

Does Nature<br />

Affect Your<br />

Behavior?<br />

Does it matter if we are exposed to the natural<br />

world? Do trees, flowers, and the sight of wildlife<br />

affect our behavior? More and more scientists are<br />

trying to answer such questions. One of the hubs<br />

of this research is in Urbana-Champaign, at the<br />

University of Illinois, home to the Landscape and<br />

Human Health Laboratory.<br />

To learn more about the latest findings,<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> magazine spoke with Dr. Frances E.<br />

(Ming) Kuo, an associate professor who helped<br />

start the lab in 1993 and now serves as director.<br />

As a child, she began to wonder how the built<br />

world affected behavior, and she pursued this interest<br />

during graduate work at the Universities of<br />

California (Berkeley) and Michigan.<br />

© UI News Bureau: L. Brian Stauffer photo<br />

Q: E. O. Wilson coined the term “biophilia” to capture the<br />

theory that because humans evolved in nature we have a<br />

natural affinity for it. Is that borne out by your research?<br />

A: Yes, but our work goes beyond that. Our studies document<br />

that not only is there an affinity for the natural world,<br />

but being in its midst improves our physical and mental<br />

health. Because of the benefits, some researchers have<br />

taken to calling exposure to nature “Vitamin G,” referring<br />

to “green.”<br />

Q: What are these benefits?<br />

A: Consistent with earlier studies involving animals in captivity,<br />

scientists have documented less stress, more selfcontrol,<br />

more cooperation with others, greater mutual<br />

trust, quicker recovery from illness, and other benefits.<br />

Q: Is there really hard evidence of this impact, or is this based<br />

primarily on people telling researchers that a walk through a<br />

neighborhood park made them feel better?<br />

A: In this field’s early days there was quite a bit of reliance<br />

on self-reporting, but since then there have been<br />

many, many studies based on objective evidence. Blood<br />

pressure and heart rates were among the first things to<br />

be measured, and subsequently we tracked immune<br />

functioning, blood glucose levels in diabetics, and other<br />

physiological data. If you look at the body of evidence,<br />

you will find considerable scientific rigor.<br />

Q: What are some practical applications of your findings?<br />

A: Developers of public housing projects have taken a<br />

big interest. Historically, high-rise projects had trees and<br />

grass, but with hundreds of kids using that green space,<br />

the grass tended to get trampled and turned into mud,<br />

and then developers often paved over those areas rather<br />

than pay to continually re-sod. Our work has reminded<br />

housing authorities of the importance of these spaces; if<br />

you make them livable spaces, then residents use them,<br />

and that has important impacts on strength of community.<br />

30 1-800-THE-WILD


Getting people out in these spaces also introduces informal<br />

surveillance, which works to deter crime.<br />

Q: Can these principles make a difference in prisons?<br />

A: Yes, there’s some really cool work with prisons. It turns<br />

out that inmates with views of fields or forests have substantially<br />

fewer sick calls than those inmates looking at<br />

mostly barren prison yards. We’re also seeing a surge in<br />

gardening programs as a form of therapy for prisoners.<br />

Q: Can you say which natural objects have the most impact?<br />

A: As far as we can tell, it matches up pretty well with<br />

people’s intuitive sense of what constitutes nature. <strong>The</strong><br />

little research we have comparing<br />

the effects of different<br />

natural features—trees,<br />

grass, etc.—suggests that<br />

trees have an outsized impact.<br />

We know less about<br />

flowers, but signs are that<br />

they are high on the list, too.<br />

Q: What about wildlife?<br />

A: We have less documentation<br />

of this, but it does seem<br />

that anything that makes the<br />

view more absorbing matters.<br />

I think it would be very<br />

interesting to look at the<br />

effects of bird-watching on<br />

older adults.<br />

Q: Do indoor plants<br />

play a similar role?<br />

A: We’re not finding that<br />

they do. In fact, we more<br />

consistently see benefits<br />

from a scenic wall calendar<br />

or a window view of nature<br />

than from an indoor plant.<br />

Q: If an office worker isn’t getting much benefit from her<br />

plant, maybe she needs to get outside. True?<br />

A: Yes, there’s a great deal of evidence to suggest that<br />

getting outside during the day and absorbing some of<br />

the natural world improves our mood and health. As of<br />

now, we don’t have a lot of specifics.<br />

Q: <strong>The</strong>re is considerable discussion these days about youngsters<br />

failing to get outside much, spending long hours in front<br />

of the computer screen and the TV. Do you have any findings<br />

about how that might affect them?<br />

A: We have work involving children with ADHD (Attention<br />

Deficit/Hyperactivity Disorder) that shows that their<br />

symptoms are worse when they play indoors versus in<br />

greener, outdoor spaces. And there’s work on children in<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

the general population linking their access to nature with<br />

better concentration and fewer ADHD-like symptoms. I<br />

also believe that unstructured time outdoors is important<br />

in developing children’s capacity to explore, learn risk<br />

management, and become independent.<br />

Q: Are researchers discovering differences based on age,<br />

gender, or other demographic factors?<br />

A: At first we were baffled because boys were not showing<br />

the same effects as girls. But eventually we realized<br />

that the differences might stem from how much time boys<br />

spend in and around their homes. Once we took that<br />

into account, the difference disappeared. So generally<br />

no, we’re not seeing much<br />

demographic variance; it<br />

looks like everyone benefits<br />

from access to nature.<br />

Q: I know you do a lot of<br />

work with the United States<br />

Conference of Mayors and<br />

the City of Chicago. Are<br />

urban residents at a serious<br />

disadvantage because nature<br />

is marginalized in cities?<br />

A: Actually, one of the really<br />

important findings in<br />

this field is that “nature”<br />

doesn’t necessarily mean<br />

“not urban.” <strong>The</strong> evidence<br />

on nature and human<br />

health is not an argument<br />

for sprawl—not at all. It’s<br />

an argument for creating a<br />

whole hierarchical system<br />

of green spaces in our cities.<br />

This certainly includes<br />

national and state parks<br />

and forest preserves, but it<br />

also includes green urban<br />

environments: tree-lined<br />

streets, window boxes, vest pocket parks, green roofs,<br />

planters, small squares. What research tells us is that we<br />

should weave nature into the urban fabric, and that this<br />

will almost certainly lead to a healthier, better-functioning<br />

citizenry.<br />

Q: As your knowledge of this field has grown, have you<br />

changed your lifestyle at all?<br />

A: Yes, I do pay more attention to how I live my life. I have<br />

a walk home that makes it possible to use my iPhone,<br />

but now I try not to do that so that I can focus more on<br />

the experience of the tree-lined streets. Like most faculty<br />

members, I am trying to juggle a lot of things, and at first<br />

I felt guilty about not using any available moment to catch<br />

up on work, but I’m making that transition. It’s not easy.<br />

31


wilderness at risk<br />

Running through southwestern Oregon from the Cascades to the Pacific, the Wild<br />

and Scenic Rogue River offers outstanding rafting and wildlife viewing opportunities.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> wants the Rogue protected from inappropriate logging in an<br />

area we believe should be added to the <strong>Wilderness</strong> System.<br />

© Justin Bailie<br />

32 1-800-THE-WILD


It is now open season on open spaces. <strong>The</strong> leading edge of this attack is the <strong>Wilderness</strong> and Roadless<br />

Area Release Act (H.R. 1581, S. 1087), which would open up more than 60 million acres of wild national<br />

forest and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) lands to activities such as oil drilling, dirt bike use, logging,<br />

and mining. On the following pages are eight of the landscapes in jeopardy.<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

33


One hour northeast<br />

of Las Vegas sits<br />

Gold Butte, with its<br />

prehistoric dwellings,<br />

timeless solitude,<br />

wildlife such as desert<br />

bighorn sheep and<br />

golden eagles. And<br />

spectacular geological<br />

features (including<br />

the“Screaming Beast,”<br />

above). Gold Butte<br />

needs to be protected<br />

from damaging offroad<br />

vehicle traffic.<br />

© Isabel Synnatschke<br />

34 1-800-THE-WILD


www.wilderness.org<br />

Aravaipa Canyon in southeastern Arizona<br />

features multicolored cliffs, multiple side<br />

canyons, and the beautiful, free-flowing<br />

and perennial Aravaipa Creek—a rarity<br />

in the desert. <strong>The</strong> canyon is a popular<br />

recreation destination and one of the<br />

state’s most ecologically intact areas,<br />

serving as valuable riparian habitat for<br />

peregrine falcons and a wide variety<br />

of songbirds. <strong>The</strong> primary threat to<br />

the unprotected canyonlands is poorly<br />

regulated off-road vehicle use, particularly<br />

in the uplands surrounding the canyon<br />

and the creek at canyon ends.<br />

© Howard Paley<br />

35


Tucked away in western North Carolina’s Nantahala National<br />

Forest is the Snowbird Mountain <strong>Wilderness</strong> Study Area. We<br />

believe Congress should add this special place to the National<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> Preservation System to protect it from logging.<br />

© George Evans<br />

36 1-800-THE-WILD


© Darren Huski<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

<strong>The</strong>re is a fast-moving mining initiative underway at south-central New Mexico’s<br />

Otero Mesa, home to more than a thousand native species (including a prize<br />

pronghorn herd), thousands of ancient archeological sites, and more than half a<br />

million acres of wilderness-quality lands. Mining would also jeopardize the Salt<br />

Basin aquifer, the state’s largest, untapped freshwater resource.<br />

37


In the eastern Sierra’s<br />

Inyo National Forest<br />

lies Symmes Creek,<br />

featuring great views<br />

of 14,375-foot Mount<br />

Williamson, California’s<br />

second-highest peak.<br />

This area deserves to be<br />

added to the National<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> Preservation<br />

System so that it will<br />

never be compromised<br />

by motorized vehicles.<br />

© Ed Callaert<br />

38 1-800-THE-WILD


© Tom Till<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

Eastern Utah’s famed<br />

Desolation Canyon, one<br />

of the wildest stretches<br />

along the Green River,<br />

was named by explorer<br />

John Wesley Powell. It<br />

is a rafter’s playground,<br />

archeological treasure<br />

trove, and Old West icon<br />

that merits designation<br />

as a wilderness area so<br />

that it will be safe from<br />

gas drilling and off-road<br />

vehicle traffic.<br />

39


Caribou are among the species that would suffer if oil and<br />

gas drilling were allowed in the wildlife-rich portions of<br />

the National Petroleum Reserve-Alaska. This special place<br />

also is vital to greater white-fronted geese, tundra swans,<br />

Pacific black brant, and many other migratory birds. © Patrick J. Endres/AlaskaPhotoGraphics.com<br />

40 1-800-THE-WILD


© Sean Babbington<br />

Building<br />

an Army<br />

of Young<br />

Conservation<br />

Leaders<br />

“I love the work I do,” says Tom Uniack, who directs conservation<br />

campaigns for the Washington <strong>Wilderness</strong> Coalition<br />

in Seattle. “It’s a powerful thing to know that you protected<br />

something for your grandkids’ grandkids.”<br />

Uniack is a “graduate” of the mentoring and training<br />

programs that <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> created in 1999.<br />

“<strong>The</strong>re were millions and millions of acres of wilderness crying<br />

out for protection, but way too few trained organizers to<br />

build the public support needed to protect that land,” explains<br />

Michael Carroll, associate director of the <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong>’s <strong>Wilderness</strong> Support Center (WSC). “So we found<br />

some enthusiastic donors and started training a new generation<br />

of leaders to work in communities across the country.”<br />

Those efforts have paid off. Today, thanks in large part to<br />

these programs, nearly every western state has a homegrown<br />

organization focused on wilderness, as do a number of East<br />

Coast and midwestern states. In the past decade, those organizations<br />

have played an important role in permanently protecting<br />

more than eight million acres of American wilderness.<br />

Not that these victories are won overnight. As another graduate,<br />

Carol Lena Miller of the Virginia <strong>Wilderness</strong> Committee,<br />

puts it: “Through long conversations and lots of patient effort we<br />

can help convince people about the benefits of wilderness, and<br />

clear up lots of misperceptions that are out there.”<br />

Meet a few more heroes who are leading the charge:<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

BY HANNAH NORDHAUS<br />

An alumnus of our training program, the Sierra Club’s<br />

Ben Greuel is helping protect the Olympic Peninsula.<br />

AMBER KELLEY,<br />

SAN JUAN CITIzENS ALLIANCE<br />

Amber Kelley, 31, grew up on a farm outside of Cortez in<br />

southwestern Colorado. After earning a sociology degree in<br />

2007, she found herself pulled home to the desert and mountains<br />

of her youth, and the San Juan Citizens Alliance hired her<br />

to help fight for protection of the lower Dolores River corridor.<br />

Being a native makes Kelley more effective. Because her<br />

father still farms there, she knows many of the agricultural users<br />

who might normally be sitting distrustfully across the table<br />

from environmental advocates. “Having gone to the oneroom<br />

schoolhouse with their kids helps” allay some of that<br />

suspicion, she explains—though she has still had to gain their<br />

trust because of her new role. “Now we’re working together<br />

to ensure that the agricultural community can thrive and native<br />

fish can be sustained.”<br />

Kelley has trained at WSC, and one staff member, Jeff<br />

Widen, continues to serve as her mentor. That support has<br />

helped her deal with the unique challenges of campaigning for<br />

lands protection in such a small community, which can be isolating.<br />

“Amber’s a quick learner,” says Widen. “I’ve been in her<br />

position a number of times, and I see her putting those lessons<br />

to work. She’s a strategic thinker who likes to find solutions.”<br />

41


Amber Kelley (left) and Sergio Avila (in jacket)<br />

received training from our <strong>Wilderness</strong> Support Center.<br />

© Brian Kelley<br />

SERGIO AVILA, SKY ISLAND ALLIANCE<br />

Sergio Avila grew up in Zacatecas, Mexico, a<br />

stark landscape of mesquite, cacti and rattlesnakes,<br />

and studied wildlife conservation in<br />

graduate school, specializing in large predators.<br />

Eventually, his work brought him to Tucson,<br />

where he now manages the Sky Island Alliance’s<br />

Northern Mexico Conservation Program.<br />

Before Avila joined the grassroots environmental<br />

group, Sky Island Alliance operated almost exclusively<br />

on the Arizona and New Mexico side of the Mexican border.<br />

But the increasingly rare jaguars and ocelots Avila studies did<br />

not, and in 2006 he started a program in Mexico, collaborating<br />

with researchers, ranchers, and government agencies<br />

to identify and protect wildlife corridors and habitat on both<br />

sides of the border. In March 2011, the Mexican government<br />

officially protected a 10,000-acre, biologically diverse private<br />

ranch where Avila has been monitoring wildlife since 2007.<br />

He considers his work to be a bridge between the conservation<br />

communities in the U.S. and Mexico. “Going to<br />

work in another country isn’t just translating your brochures,”<br />

he says, “but also knowing how to understand the people and<br />

their values.”<br />

“Sergio has a natural gift for talking with people that is a<br />

fantastic advantage in our work,” says Mike Quigley, who represents<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> in Arizona and worked with<br />

him on a Tumacacori Highlands campaign.<br />

JEFF HUNTER,<br />

SOUTHERN APPALACHIAN FOREST COALITION<br />

It took 19 years of a day job, eight years of night school,<br />

and a six-month backpacking trip to do it, but eventually<br />

Jeff Hunter decided he needed to make his passion—land<br />

© Jessica Lamberton<br />

conservation—his job. Though he had volunteered for forest<br />

protection organizations, it was only when Hunter took<br />

a leave of absence from his job at Verizon Communications<br />

and hiked the Appalachian Trail from Georgia to Maine that<br />

he knew it was time to make a change. “I realized I wanted to<br />

align my values with my career,” he says.<br />

After completing an environmental studies degree in<br />

2002, he took a job in Chattanooga with the American Hiking<br />

<strong>Society</strong> and then, in 2008, with the Southern Appalachian<br />

Forest Coalition, where he is working to protect and expand<br />

a number of wilderness areas in Tennessee. As the organization’s<br />

lone full-time staffer in the Volunteer State, Hunter has<br />

built a broad coalition of businesses, nonprofits, faith organizations,<br />

and influential individuals to support wilderness protection.<br />

He wins converts with hikes. “If you can get someone<br />

out to fall in love with a place, to jump into a pool at the base<br />

of a local waterfall, to hike a snowy trail in the mountains in<br />

wintertime—that creates a connection,” he explains.<br />

“Jeff is a rock star,” raves the WSC’s Matt Keller, who has<br />

helped him develop strategy. “From his previous work Jeff<br />

brought tremendous people skills and lobbying experience,<br />

and that’s reflected in the progress made so far on the bill<br />

introduced by the state’s Republican senators. In most cases,<br />

our career changers have been great success stories.”<br />

42 1-800-THE-WILD


© Caara Fritz<br />

BEN GREUEL, SIERRA CLUB<br />

Ben Greuel grew up on a farm along the Wisconsin<br />

River. <strong>The</strong> TV reception was terrible, so he spent his<br />

time fishing, swimming, hunting, and hiking, and, in<br />

summertime, driving around the West and camping<br />

out of the back of his family’s blue Ford F250.<br />

No surprise, then, that when he finished college,<br />

he immediately went into the business of preserving<br />

wild places. He is now based in the Pacific Northwest<br />

with the Sierra Club, working to protect wildlands and watersheds<br />

on the Olympic Peninsula. “I do everything from<br />

educating our members to reaching out to everyone from<br />

economic development councils to local fishing guides to<br />

recreation groups to local elected officials to local Tribes to<br />

timber companies, putting a lot of miles on the old truck”—<br />

now, a slightly newer 1997 Ford Ranger—“and meeting a lot<br />

of interesting folks.”<br />

Greuel, 28, considers his interaction with other wilderness<br />

advocates through WSC’s mentoring program to have<br />

been invaluable. “One of the things I learned is that when<br />

you’re doing outreach to local communities for wilderness<br />

campaigns, it doesn’t just flow one way,” he says. “You need<br />

to build quality long-term relationships with these folks where<br />

you take into account their needs and concerns.” Those lessons<br />

have paid off: the Wild Olympics campaign has built a<br />

diverse coalition that has begun to break down barriers to<br />

the dream of protecting the Olympic’s watersheds.<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

© Tyler Roemer<br />

GENA GOODMAN-CAMPBELL,<br />

OREGON NATURAL DESERT ASSOCIATION<br />

Gena Goodman-Campbell envisioned a career resolving<br />

international conflicts and earned a college degree in that<br />

field. But when her first post-college job threw her into a<br />

local wilderness campaign, she discovered that such work<br />

wasn’t all that different from resolving international disputes—it<br />

involved lots of listening and collaboration with<br />

many different players.<br />

In 2007 she joined the Oregon Natural Desert Association,<br />

heading up a campaign to designate the Oregon Badlands<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> near Bend. Thanks in part to the enlistment of<br />

Jeff Hunter (left) and Gena<br />

Goodman-Campbell (below)<br />

are providing leadership<br />

in Tennessee and Oregon,<br />

respectively.<br />

more than 200 local business<br />

supporters, the area<br />

was added to the National<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> Preservation<br />

System in 2009. Goodman-<br />

Campbell received the<br />

thrilling news while on a<br />

WSC mentoring retreat,<br />

creating connections that<br />

have been essential to<br />

keeping her grounded and<br />

energized in her work.<br />

<strong>The</strong> effort to train<br />

environmental leaders<br />

is evolving, says<br />

Jeremy Garncarz, the<br />

WSC director. “We have<br />

created two new initiatives,”<br />

he explains. “<strong>The</strong><br />

first is the Wild Forever<br />

Future Fellows program,<br />

which provides one-year fellowships to train young leaders<br />

in <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> field offices.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> other initiative involves training sessions in selected<br />

regions. For example, about 25 conservation staff members<br />

from Nevada, Oregon, and Idaho gathered to share ideas on<br />

how to protect the Great Basin. <strong>The</strong>y were joined by Carroll<br />

and his colleague Melissa Giacchino. Next: the Colorado<br />

Plateau and the Northern Rockies. “<strong>The</strong> energy at these sessions<br />

is just amazing,” says Carroll. “Despite the challenges<br />

facing environmental campaigns, you can’t help but come<br />

away from these things optimistic about the future.”<br />

Hannah Nordhaus lives in Boulder, Colorado.<br />

She is author of <strong>The</strong> Beekeeper’s Lament: How<br />

One Man and Half a Billion Honey Bees Help Feed<br />

America, which follows an eloquent and embattled<br />

industrial beekeeper who is struggling mightily<br />

to keep his bees alive. To learn more about the<br />

book, visit www.hannahnordhaus.com.<br />

43


Too<br />

Wild<br />

To<br />

Drill<br />

By Dave Showalter<br />

© Dave Showalter<br />

44 1-800-THE-WILD


Noble Basin, about 40 miles south of Grand Teton National<br />

Park, is much more than a beautiful piece of the Old West. It<br />

is a major thoroughfare for elk, pronghorn, grizzlies, and other<br />

wildlife moving through the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.<br />

But that could change. Houston-based PXP wants<br />

to develop a 136-well gas field in the heart of<br />

the basin, at the foot of the Wyoming Range.<br />

PXP would extract the gas via hydraulic fracturing<br />

(fracking) in an area that is part of a vulnerable<br />

aquifer and is in the headwaters of the Hoback<br />

River —a wild and scenic river. Emissions would<br />

degrade the air over Grand Teton and adjacent<br />

national forests.<br />

“Environmental logger” Dave Willoughby, 66,<br />

has spent much of his life in the Wyoming Range. I<br />

met him at Daniel Junction north of Pinedale, and<br />

we headed west, climbing along roads past sandhill<br />

cranes summering in wet meadows and ranches<br />

overlooking the Wind Rivers to the east. We<br />

made our way to the two-track on Forest Service<br />

land, and I listened as Willoughby’s memories<br />

flowed: his granddaughter’s first elk, wife Linda’s<br />

trophy moose, deer and elk taken by sons Chad<br />

and Derek.<br />

We headed down into the basin through<br />

fields of gold balsamroot wildflowers lined with<br />

aspen. Our entire route is slated to become a twolane<br />

highway with an estimated 183 semi-trailers<br />

rumbling through every day.<br />

We came to Davie’s Hill—Dave couldn’t recall<br />

who named it for him—and scanned the rolling<br />

sage and aspen below. We saw creeks, seeps,<br />

and streams where colorful Snake River cutthroat<br />

trout spawn before migrating 30 miles to meet<br />

the Snake River just south of Grand Teton. PXP’s<br />

vision for that landscape includes a pilot wildcat<br />

rig (“Eagle One”), which would drill three test<br />

holes before construction of the 17-pad, 136-well<br />

gas field, with compressor stations, a pipeline, 29<br />

miles of new or upgraded road, and toxic waste<br />

storage. Willoughby broke the silence, saying,<br />

“This is where my wife and I will go when we die.”<br />

While most Wyoming residents accept the<br />

reality of oil and gas development in their state,<br />

they cherish their natural legacy, and a growing<br />

number are concerned about the impacts of drilling.<br />

“By 2006 the massive and destructive Jonah<br />

and Pinedale Anticline fields were there for all to<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

see,” recalls <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>’s Stephanie<br />

Kessler, who is based in Lander. “<strong>The</strong>re has been<br />

significant air and water pollution, as well as declines<br />

in wildlife populations.”<br />

Determined to prevent<br />

similar destruction<br />

in the Wyoming Range,<br />

a broad spectrum of individuals<br />

and organizations<br />

created Citizens<br />

for the Wyoming Range<br />

(CFWR). It includes ranchers,<br />

chambers of commerce,<br />

sportsmen, and<br />

even oil and gas workers.<br />

Before long the state’s<br />

two Republican senators<br />

introduced the Wyoming<br />

Range Legacy Act, and<br />

Congress passed it in<br />

© Dave Showalter<br />

2009. <strong>The</strong> bill prevented<br />

drilling on 1.2 million<br />

acres of Bridger-Teton National Forest.<br />

But that law did not tamper with valid existing<br />

lease rights, so PXP still had the opportunity to<br />

pursue development in the Noble Basin. In early<br />

2011, after the Forest Service issued a draft environmental<br />

analysis for the project that allowed<br />

the drilling, more than 60,000 citizens, organizations,<br />

politicians, and government agencies submitted<br />

comments on the proposal—95 percent<br />

of them raising concerns. <strong>The</strong> Wyoming Game<br />

and Fish Department faulted the agency for using<br />

“outdated and/or obscure research. <strong>The</strong> authors<br />

should better justify their statements with proven<br />

science…”<br />

Kim Floyd, executive secretary of the<br />

Wyoming AFL-CIO, criticized the Forest Service<br />

for failing to properly account for the potential income<br />

from hunting, fishing, and other recreation,<br />

which totaled more than $2.5 billion in 2009 “and<br />

is a renewable resource.”<br />

With legacy on my mind, I called Carl Bennett<br />

of Rock Springs, who likes to call himself “a son<br />

<strong>The</strong> Wyoming<br />

Range is<br />

important to<br />

many species,<br />

including<br />

grizzlies, elk,<br />

moose, mule<br />

deer, pronghorn,<br />

and lynx.<br />

45


Drilling in the Wyoming<br />

Range would further<br />

jeopardize the sandhill<br />

crane. Long-time<br />

champions of the area,<br />

such as Dave Willoughby<br />

(above) are fighting<br />

to protect it from<br />

industrialization.<br />

© Dave Showalter<br />

VISIT WyOMINGRANGE.ORG TO<br />

STAy CURRENT WITH CHANGING EVENTS<br />

AND LEARN HOW yOU CAN HELP.<br />

© Dave Showalter<br />

of Wyoming.” When Carl was about eight<br />

years old, his dad took him to a ridge-top<br />

view of Noble Basin and told him, “You<br />

know, son, I can’t give you a lot, but I can<br />

give you this.” Carl and his family spend<br />

their weekends and vacations in “the<br />

Wyomings.” In early 2011 he traveled<br />

to Washington, D.C., with fellow CFWR<br />

members and <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> staff to<br />

urge members of Congress to save “the<br />

place I love.”<br />

In July I toured the Upper Hoback River Basin<br />

with outfitter and retired Marine Dan Smitherman,<br />

a CFWR spokesman. <strong>The</strong> conservation group<br />

American Rivers lists the Hoback as one of the nation’s<br />

most endangered rivers because of the drilling<br />

plan. “Everything that Wyoming is known for<br />

either breeds, migrates, fawns, calves, or travels<br />

through this area,” he says, naming moose, elk,<br />

mule deer, pronghorn, black and grizzly bears,<br />

gray wolves, and Canada lynx. Dan Bailey, a triathlete<br />

who lives in a 1920’s homestead along the<br />

Hoback River, cites water, air, and noise pollution<br />

among his many concerns, adding, “It’s a joke to<br />

think that an accident won’t occur.”<br />

Meanwhile, the Forest Service is poring<br />

through those 60,000 comments. In August<br />

Jacqueline Buchanan, supervisor of the Bridger-<br />

Teton National Forest, told me, “Circumstances<br />

have changed. We now have grizzly bears down<br />

there, an endangered species.” She acknowledged<br />

that there have been many changes on the<br />

range over five years and said that they must be<br />

addressed.<br />

PXP declined an interview request, referring<br />

me to its Web site, which says, “PXP believes<br />

strongly in the need to balance new energy development<br />

with protection of sensitive areas, wildlife<br />

populations and natural resources. As part of<br />

this commitment PXP believes in the value of collaborating<br />

with stakeholders of divergent views to<br />

achieve compromise and balance.”<br />

Does the industry need more places to drill?<br />

According to the March 2011 Interior Department<br />

Oil and Gas Lease Utilization report, 50 percent of<br />

existing leases (53.7 percent in Wyoming) are not<br />

currently being utilized by the oil and gas industry.<br />

<strong>The</strong> coalition proposes that the leases be<br />

bought or donated. <strong>The</strong> Wyoming Range Legacy<br />

Act provides for this process, and if these leases<br />

are retired, the land would never be leased again.<br />

Unfortunately, PXP has no obligation to do this.<br />

“We think a buy-out is a win for both the company<br />

and the public,” says Kessler. “If that’s not possible,<br />

then we must do everything possible to ensure<br />

that PXP is held to the ‘gold standard’ of conservation.<br />

We owe at least that to future generations.”<br />

Dave Showalter of Arvada, Colorado,<br />

is the author and photographer of<br />

Prairie Thunder: <strong>The</strong> Nature of Colorado’s<br />

Great Plains. His photographs and articles<br />

have appeared in Outside, Outdoor<br />

Photographer, National Geographic Books,<br />

and elsewhere.<br />

46 1-800-THE-WILD<br />

© Dave Showalter


Member Profile<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> Investors<br />

with a Long-Term View<br />

S<br />

hortly after joining our Governing Council in 1996,<br />

Bert Cohn hiked through the canyons and arches of<br />

southern Utah. “I just fell in love with the place and<br />

the idea of protecting wilderness,” he recalls.<br />

That adventure helped persuade Cohn and his<br />

wife Barbara to become the leading underwriters of our<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> Support Center in Durango, Colorado. Created<br />

in 1999, the center works with grassroots groups around<br />

the country to build public campaigns designed to convince<br />

Congress to establish wilderness and other conservation<br />

areas.<br />

Cohn retired in late 2010 from the investment management<br />

firm First Manhattan Company, where he had been a<br />

managing director, and he takes a hardheaded approach<br />

to his philanthropy. “He likes to talk about the return on investment,”<br />

explains Melyssa Watson, former director of the<br />

center and now our assistant vice president for Southwest<br />

Regional Conservation. “When we calculated it, we came<br />

up with just one dollar for each acre we were protecting.”<br />

Already leading supporters of the center, the Cohns<br />

took another giant philanthropic step forward in 2011 by<br />

creating a large lead trust that will help fund the center<br />

for 15 years. <strong>The</strong> lead trust provides current support while<br />

ensuring an inheritance for their grandchildren. “Everyone<br />

has different circumstances, but this vehicle made the<br />

most sense for us, and I urge others to consider it,” Bert<br />

Cohn says.<br />

He traces his appreciation for nature to his childhood<br />

in South Orange, New Jersey, when his father would take<br />

him to Essex County’s bucolic South Mountain Reservation.<br />

A graduate of Harvard and New York University’s School<br />

of Business, Cohn was an Army staff sergeant in the<br />

Philippines during World War II.<br />

It was grammar school classmate Ted Stanley, one<br />

of the giants of conservation philanthropy, who laid the<br />

groundwork for Cohn’s emergence as a major force in the<br />

field. Stanley, who died in 2009, persuaded Cohn to join<br />

him on our Governing Council.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> moment I walked in <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>’s<br />

door, Bert was talking to me about the future of the organization,”<br />

recalls our president, William H. Meadows. “He<br />

and Barbara have been pacesetters and catalysts who have<br />

made us a significantly better organization. <strong>The</strong>ir generosity<br />

has made an enormous difference in the <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

Support Center, our intern program, and many other initiatives.”<br />

Since the center was born, more than eight million<br />

acres have been protected.<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

Barbara and Bert Cohn’s generosity has helped protect untold<br />

acres of America’s wilderness.<br />

“I consider it a privilege to be able to help,” Bert Cohn<br />

says. “We have great respect for the staff’s economic, scientific,<br />

communications, and advocacy skills. It’s a rare<br />

combination.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> couple’s generosity has also advanced environmental<br />

education and the history and philosophy of science.<br />

Other major beneficiaries include the Harvard<br />

University Center for the Environment, Tel Aviv University,<br />

and Sarah Lawrence College.<br />

Barbara, who earned a master’s degree in anthropology<br />

from Sarah Lawrence, served as a college trustee for<br />

many years and is now an honorary trustee. Her interest in<br />

Native American culture and their respect for nature stimulated<br />

her own interest in the natural world. She is an active<br />

member of Rachel’s Network, named after Silent Spring<br />

author Rachel Carson. It promotes women as impassioned<br />

leaders and agents of change dedicated to the stewardship<br />

of the Earth.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> most important legacy we can leave future generations<br />

is cleaner air and water and more wilderness areas<br />

so they can experience the incredible natural beauty of our<br />

country,” says Barbara. “It is an honor to be able to support<br />

this goal in every way possible.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> Cohns’ three children and Bert’s brother <strong>The</strong>odore<br />

have made support of <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> truly a family<br />

affair. In September we honored the Cohns at a dinner in<br />

New York. “In view of everything they have done to save<br />

wilderness,” says Meadows, “they are probably entitled to<br />

one of these events every month.”<br />

© Mark Silva<br />

47


Trips to the<br />

parks brought<br />

Americans<br />

close—<br />

sometimes<br />

too close—<br />

to wildlife.<br />

Such travel<br />

has helped<br />

build a public<br />

commitment to<br />

protecting the<br />

great outdoors.<br />

Everyone<br />

in the Car!<br />

How those summer national park trips shaped our views<br />

BY SUSAN S. RUGH<br />

Recently my son and his family sent photos of<br />

their vacation in the Southwest, where they<br />

visited Arches National Park in Utah. Our six-yearold<br />

granddaughter scrambled up the red rock to<br />

get a better view of the Windows, and her threeyear-old<br />

brother proudly wore his Junior Ranger<br />

badge on his T-shirt. <strong>The</strong>ir parents were passing<br />

along their own enthusiasm for the stunning landscape<br />

of the West, a passion acquired on their<br />

childhood visits to the parks.<br />

<strong>The</strong> pictures reminded me of our family vacation<br />

to Yellowstone in 1962, the year of the onebillionth<br />

visit to the national parks. As a member<br />

of the baby boom generation, I was part of a new<br />

summer vacation tradition—the family road trip. It<br />

was invented after World War II when the Greatest<br />

Generation stashed the boomers in the back seat<br />

of the station wagon and set out to see America.<br />

New interstate highways, the end of war-time<br />

gas rationing, and paid vacation benefits made it<br />

easier for families to take to the open road, guided<br />

by free maps from big oil companies. So did<br />

fast-food restaurants and “kids-stay-free” motels.<br />

Many of us visited Disneyland, Washington, D.C.,<br />

the shore, or the mountains. <strong>The</strong> destinations<br />

with the most lasting impact may have been the<br />

national parks.<br />

<strong>The</strong> annual number of visits to the parks exploded<br />

from 21.7 million in 1946 to 61.6 million<br />

in 1956. <strong>The</strong>n, under the National Park Service’s<br />

© National Park Service Historic Photograph Collection © MommyBlogExpert.com<br />

48 1-800-THE-WILD


© Eric Mohl<br />

ten-year Mission 66 program, more than $1 billion<br />

was spent to upgrade facilities to better meet<br />

tourists’ needs. By 1966, annual visitation topped<br />

133 million. <strong>The</strong> numbers also reflected the camping<br />

craze and the urge to escape the pressures of<br />

civilization. Camping was almost as inexpensive<br />

as staying at home.<br />

“One of the best things about the parks was<br />

how much you could learn both from your own exploring<br />

and from the park rangers,” recalls Michelle<br />

Haefele, a <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> economist. “One of<br />

Your 635-million-acre portfolio<br />

National parks are known<br />

and loved by virtually all<br />

Americans. But they are not<br />

the only wonderful places<br />

that belong to each of us.<br />

We jointly hold deeds to<br />

635 million acres, and these<br />

other treasures also have<br />

helped make memories<br />

and raise our awareness of<br />

the values of nature.<br />

National parks represent<br />

about 12 percent<br />

of the public lands. As a<br />

citizen, you also own the<br />

national forests, national<br />

wildlife refuges, and<br />

western lands overseen by<br />

the U.S. Bureau of Land<br />

Management. (<strong>The</strong> most<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

pristine ten percent of<br />

the BLM lands make up<br />

the National Landscape<br />

Conservation System.)<br />

Nearly 110 million<br />

acres of this legacy are<br />

guaranteed permanent protection<br />

because Congress<br />

put them into the National<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> Preservation<br />

System. <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong> is dedicated to<br />

increasing that figure.<br />

World-class recreation—kayaking,<br />

camping,<br />

fishing, birding, hiking—is<br />

what usually comes to mind<br />

when we think about these<br />

lands. In addition, these<br />

places send clean water to<br />

my most vivid memories was going on a ranger-led<br />

tour of the Ancestral Puebloan ruins at Mesa Verde<br />

in western Colorado. I was fascinated and even began<br />

thinking that I’d like to be a park ranger when<br />

I grew up.” She majored in natural resources and<br />

went on to get a Ph.D. Nowadays Haefele enjoys<br />

taking her niece and nephew to Rocky Mountain<br />

National Park to hear the elk bugle.<br />

Haefele was not the only one entranced by<br />

the educational activities and museums that the<br />

Park Service established. Thousands of tourists<br />

downstream communities,<br />

filter the air, provide habitat<br />

for fish and wildlife, and<br />

generate local jobs by luring<br />

visitors, small business<br />

owners, and retirees. <strong>The</strong>y<br />

even help combat climate<br />

change by absorbing and<br />

storing carbon.<br />

<strong>The</strong>odore Roosevelt<br />

had it right: “<strong>The</strong> nation<br />

behaves well if it treats the<br />

natural resources as assets<br />

which it must turn over to<br />

the next generation increased,<br />

and not impaired,<br />

in value.”<br />

Airstreams like<br />

this one cruising<br />

through Utah<br />

carried millions<br />

of Americans<br />

to national<br />

parks and<br />

other popular<br />

destinations.<br />

© BLM<br />

Canyons of the Ancients<br />

National Monument is just<br />

one example of other special<br />

destinations.<br />

49


A Junior Ranger<br />

swearing-in<br />

ceremony at the<br />

Grand Canyon<br />

flocked to nighttime campfire programs, learning<br />

about history, plants, geology, and wildlife.<br />

Crowds gathered on designated viewing platforms<br />

at spectacular park features to listen to<br />

rangers talk about natural wonders.<br />

Meantime, park officials refused to cordon<br />

off rushing waterfalls and precipices, adamantly<br />

maintaining that if they protected visitors from all<br />

hazards, the parks no longer would give visitors<br />

the sense that they<br />

were in the wilderness.<br />

Children were<br />

thought to be natural<br />

campers, curious explorers<br />

who needed<br />

to take only a few<br />

precautions for their<br />

own safety.<br />

Fishing, boating,<br />

and hiking drew<br />

children away from<br />

the campsite to a<br />

more immediate experience<br />

with nature.<br />

© NPS photo by Michael Quinn<br />

Yosemite National<br />

<strong>The</strong>se Lands Are Your Lands—except….<br />

<strong>The</strong> national parks may belong<br />

to all Americans, but<br />

that wasn’t always the reality.<br />

Despite National Park<br />

Service policies forbidding<br />

segregation, the campgrounds<br />

and toilet facilities<br />

at Virginia’s Shenandoah<br />

National Park, for example,<br />

were racially segregated<br />

until the late 1950s. As one<br />

African American tourist<br />

wrote to the Interior<br />

Secretary in 1950 after a<br />

trip to Carlsbad Caverns in<br />

New Mexico, “Lip service<br />

to democracy is not<br />

enough…”<br />

Of course, travel to the<br />

parks could be difficult,<br />

too. As recently as 1956,<br />

black families could find<br />

© Frank Bauman, photographer, LOOK Magazine Collection, Library of Congress<br />

Park began a forerunner to its current Junior<br />

Ranger program in 1930, and its nature program<br />

offered a weekly schedule of classes covering topics<br />

from reptiles and insects to birds and Indians,<br />

culminating in a Friday nature hike.<br />

Among those who took their family to<br />

Yosemite were Lloyd and Kay Harline of Orem,<br />

Utah, who have visited that California icon annually<br />

for the last 40 years. Parents of eight, grandparents<br />

of 32, and great-grandparents of 12 children,<br />

the Harlines regard the four-day family outing as<br />

the highlight of every summer. As their children<br />

grew up, Kay and Lloyd loved watching them<br />

hike, float downriver on rafts, and roast marshmallows<br />

over the campfire. <strong>The</strong> Harlines taught their<br />

children “an appreciation of the beautiful land we<br />

live in.” As they explored Yosemite, “We never let<br />

them do anything to harm the land.” Four generations<br />

of Harlines have learned an appreciation<br />

for America’s wilderness thanks to these trips.<br />

When interviewed for the Ken Burns PBS<br />

series on the history of the national parks, historian<br />

William Cronon, a longtime member of <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>’s Governing Council, mused,<br />

overnight accommodations<br />

at only three places in New<br />

Hampshire, according to<br />

<strong>The</strong> Negro Motorist Green<br />

Book. Jews, as well, could<br />

run into problems on such<br />

trips, encountering signs<br />

reading “Gentiles Only”<br />

or “Clientele Carefully<br />

Selected.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> passage of the Civil<br />

Rights Act in 1964 provided<br />

strong legal grounds<br />

for enforcement of racial<br />

equality throughout the<br />

National Park System.<br />

General societal progress<br />

also helped. Even so,<br />

people of color make up<br />

only a tiny percentage of<br />

national park visitors.<br />

Audrey and Frank<br />

Peterman, an African<br />

American couple, discovered<br />

this during a vacation<br />

tour of the parks in 1995.<br />

<strong>The</strong> experience prompted<br />

them to create Earthwise<br />

Continued on page 62<br />

Productions, a consulting<br />

company that promotes<br />

integration of the national<br />

parks and forests. <strong>The</strong>y also<br />

wrote a book on the subject:<br />

Legacy on the Land.<br />

“I feel that we are on the<br />

verge of a huge change,”<br />

said Frank Peterman,<br />

former Southeast regional<br />

director for <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong>. “Recently there’s<br />

been a lot of media coverage,<br />

with NPR, Outside<br />

magazine, MSNBC, and<br />

others reporting on the<br />

situation and how to rectify<br />

it. Most important of all,<br />

the Park Service is seeking<br />

to cultivate a relationship<br />

with the broader public.<br />

Audrey was just appointed<br />

to a subcommittee of the<br />

National Parks Advisory<br />

Board that will help establish<br />

these relationships, and<br />

she came back from the<br />

first meeting ecstatic.”<br />

50 1-800-THE-WILD


Wildsong<br />

Edited by John Daniel<br />

Desire<br />

Once, walking in the woods,<br />

I met a hunter.<br />

He spoke. I stopped.<br />

Perhaps I shouldn’t have.<br />

But he didn’t touch me.<br />

He only<br />

said I moved fast, asked<br />

if I wanted to lead his dogs.<br />

This is not to say<br />

he let me get away.<br />

Ever since, I have dreamed<br />

of running among hounds.<br />

As we slip through the leaves,<br />

the leathery touch of laurel,<br />

the dogs narrow<br />

in the nose and shoulders, grow<br />

into wolves. I go wild too,<br />

and disappear into the trees.<br />

I become why<br />

dogs howl at the forest’s edge,<br />

and you wake at night,<br />

and you say, It’s nothing.<br />

Rose McLarney<br />

Marshall, North Carolina<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

Leaf, Bird, Tree<br />

Leaf—quilled pen<br />

writing<br />

spirals in air<br />

Its weighted stem<br />

making of papery skin<br />

a wing<br />

Those other wings<br />

blown upward<br />

from every limb—bird<br />

flock rises<br />

still clustered as if<br />

memory of the tree<br />

shaped<br />

its lifts and turns<br />

in the brightening sky<br />

<strong>The</strong>y whirl and vanish<br />

together<br />

down the windfilled clouds<br />

leaving the tree<br />

bare<br />

of leaf and bird<br />

in its own<br />

slow spiraling<br />

between earth and sky<br />

Robin Chapman<br />

Madison, Wisconsin<br />

Nest Site<br />

—Mount St. Helens, Willow Flycatcher<br />

Below her steaming dome,<br />

a nest of dead stems<br />

cups two hatchlings, blind wobblers<br />

among bits of shell. Even the way<br />

their willow sways above trickles<br />

of snowmelt cannot make them<br />

less unlikely, scruffy lumplings<br />

slated to unlock their wings and sew<br />

this air of ours, this gray land<br />

we call blast zone. If there is an aim<br />

to their snaps and sallies, their kind<br />

of fletched breath, look for it<br />

in skin-shut eyes flushed with life,<br />

in the way a child keeps from sleep<br />

as long as she can, cupping a flashlight<br />

for the bloody glow of her hand.<br />

Derek Sheffield<br />

Leavenworth, Washington<br />

Song For <strong>The</strong> Unseen<br />

We, enamored of all things grand,<br />

of mountains, towers, gods whose mouths<br />

once sang rock and water awake,<br />

of time uncountable, colossal ships<br />

ploughing through gigantic oceans,<br />

we ought to regard the new green leaf,<br />

fashioned in spring of one small tree,<br />

fashioned of land teeming with beings<br />

whose microscopic eating feeds the tree<br />

which feeds the air through its own breathing,<br />

and by that breath not just the small survive.<br />

Christine Colasurdo<br />

Portland, Oregon<br />

51


On Safari in<br />

the Bodie Hills<br />

A GREAT PLACE TO VISIT by david page<br />

© Bob Wick/BLM<br />

52 1-800-THE-WILD


www.wilderness.org<br />

53


Bodie Hills: A Great Place to Visit<br />

We<br />

bounced into Bodie the way most of the<br />

lumber and firewood once did, up from the<br />

shores of Mono Lake on the old Cottonwood<br />

Canyon wagon road. It was mid-July, but up here where<br />

the Sierra Nevada meets the Great Basin, summer had only<br />

just taken hold. Beckett, 3, slept in his car seat in the back,<br />

slumped over a pillow against the door. Jasper, 6, looked out<br />

at the hills. <strong>The</strong> dog, his head out the front window, gulped<br />

air spiked with sweet phlox, bitterbrush, and sage, and<br />

surveyed the landscape for jackrabbits.<br />

<strong>The</strong> infamous Wild West town site—since 1962 preserved<br />

in a state of “arrested decay”—was at its fitfor-the-big-screen<br />

best, with cumulous clouds over<br />

the western ridges and great sidelong shafts of lateafternoon<br />

sun on antique timbers and spring-green<br />

hills. Even at five minutes to closing, the parking lot<br />

overflowed with dusty RV’s and rental cars. But less<br />

than a mile down-canyon, along the trickle of Bodie<br />

Creek, what was once the main (and notoriously<br />

bandit-infested) stage road to Aurora turned rutted<br />

and wild—and empty.<br />

At the edge of a meadow thick with wild daisies,<br />

before the Nevada state line, we turned onto<br />

a lonely, two-track Jeep trail. I locked the hubs and<br />

shifted into 4-wheel-drive. [For guidance on a destination<br />

that does not require 4WD, see the information<br />

box on page 57.]<br />

Up we climbed into the heart of the Bodie<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> Study Area (WSA), one of three such<br />

designated areas surrounding the state historic park<br />

that together make up nearly half of the Bureau<br />

of Land Management’s 200,000-acre Bodie Hills<br />

54 1-800-THE-WILD


Complex. Because of the primeval nature of the<br />

landscape, the exceptional biodiversity, the critical<br />

water sources and habitat for a variety of species<br />

(including threatened ones like the greater sagegrouse<br />

and the Lahontan cutthroat trout), the possibilities<br />

for solitude, the outstanding geological,<br />

cultural, and scenic value of these areas, they were<br />

inventoried by the BLM back in 1979 as having potential<br />

for wilderness designation.<br />

Since then, the BLM has had to toe a delicate<br />

line while waiting for Congress to decide whether to<br />

protect these areas or release them so they can be<br />

developed. On the one hand, the agency is required<br />

to honor historical activities such as mining (with valid<br />

claims) and off-road vehicle use (on existing roads<br />

and trails). On the other hand, by law, it must manage<br />

the areas “in a manner so as not to impair [their]<br />

suitability for preservation for wilderness.”<br />

We pitched our camp with some friends at an<br />

old fire ring at the edge of Dry Lake, at about 8,000<br />

feet, on a high plateau. A band of pronghorn frolicked<br />

beside the cows on the stubble-grass playa.<br />

To the east rose the Beauty Peak cinder cone; to<br />

the west the twin summits of Bodie Mountain and<br />

Potato Peak, dark colonies of willow and quaking aspen<br />

clustered in their folds.<br />

With the day’s last light fading over the snowdappled<br />

Sweetwater Range, the boys watched<br />

their first satellite run across the sky. A barn owl<br />

hovered for a minute or two over our little campfire<br />

as if to study marshmallow roasting techniques.<br />

Later, when the boys were zipped into their bags,<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

© John Dittli<br />

the coyotes—dozens of them, it seemed—began a<br />

round of yipping and shrieking out in the darkness,<br />

all around us. <strong>The</strong> next morning, along the edges of<br />

the basalt flows, we came upon ancient petroglyphs<br />

and chippings of obsidian. We found bleached cow<br />

bones, pincushion phlox, pennyroyal, waist-high<br />

thickets of red columbines, and Basque sheepherder<br />

inscriptions dating back to 1913.<br />

“You can see them sitting here,” said our friend<br />

John Dittli, a photographer, noting how radically the<br />

outside world had changed in a century. This place,<br />

by contrast, was still essentially the same as when<br />

the first people came though 10,000 years ago.<br />

In the afternoon we made our way back through<br />

Bodie. Our vehicles climbed up along the flanks of<br />

Potato Peak to the headwaters of Rough Creek—<br />

one of two streams in the Bodie Hills determined by<br />

the BLM to be eligible for federal Wild and Scenic<br />

River status. We splashed in the cool, clear water,<br />

walked barefoot in the grass, strolled through fields<br />

of wild iris and onion to drink from the springs. <strong>The</strong>n,<br />

before heading down Aurora Canyon, back to civilization<br />

and pizza at the Virginia Creek Settlement,<br />

we stopped to explore the abandoned Paramount<br />

mercury mine.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Paramount site, its 50-year-old mine works<br />

and tailings piles now in the early stages of reclamation<br />

by wild aspen groves, “is rated as having a<br />

high potential for occurrence of gold, silver and mercury,”<br />

according to a recent BLM report, and is of<br />

great interest to Electrum, a gold mining company<br />

that already has begun exploration. “Developing<br />

Pronghorn,<br />

barn owls,<br />

and golden<br />

eagles are<br />

among the<br />

wildlife<br />

found in the<br />

biologically<br />

diverse<br />

Bodie Hills.<br />

© John Dittli<br />

55


Bodie Hills: A Great Place to Visit<br />

a gold mine here,” says <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>’s<br />

Sally Miller, “would cut out the ecological heart of<br />

the Bodie Hills. Mining would pollute the water,<br />

harm wildlife, and forever scar the landscape.”<br />

To secure permanent protection for this special<br />

place, <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> and other organizations<br />

formed the Bodie Hills Conservation<br />

Partnership (bodiehills.org). “We are developing a<br />

plan with other stakeholders to protect the area’s<br />

outstanding natural and cultural values, enhance<br />

recreational opportunities, and help boost the local<br />

economy,” Miller explains.<br />

With Congress now considering legislation<br />

(H.R. 1581) to drop protection of all remaining WSAs<br />

across the country, including in the Bodie Hills, the<br />

future of this unique landscape is far from certain.<br />

David Page is the author of the<br />

Lowell Thomas Award-winning<br />

Explorer’s Guide to Yosemite &<br />

the Southern Sierra Nevada, now<br />

in its 2nd edition. He has written<br />

for the Los Angeles Times<br />

Magazine, <strong>The</strong> New York Times,<br />

Men’s Journal, and numerous<br />

other publications. He lives in<br />

Mammoth Lakes, California.<br />

Youngsters still can get a taste of wide-open spaces and<br />

big skies at Bodie Hills.<br />

56 1-800-THE-WILD<br />

© Burke Griggs


Bodie Hills Visitor Information<br />

Bodie State Historic Park is 20 miles southeast<br />

of Bridgeport and 33 miles northeast of Lee<br />

Vining, an easy day trip from Mono Lake and<br />

the east entrance to Yosemite National Park.<br />

You can take CA 270 (paved until the last three<br />

miles) in from US 395 or the rougher Cottonwood<br />

Canyon Road up from CA 167. A 4WD<br />

vehicle is necessary to navigate the Bodie<br />

Creek Road beyond Bodie State Park and the<br />

Jeep track up onto the Dry Lakes Plateau.<br />

For those with a high-clearance 2WD vehicle,<br />

there is a great loop to drive once the snow<br />

has melted (usually by mid-July). This loop offers<br />

an excellent introduction to the Bodie Hills<br />

and hosts outstanding Great Basin wildflower<br />

displays mid-summer. Go to the main park entrance,<br />

via CA 270, travel north on Geiger Grade<br />

Road and onto the high plateau of the Bodie<br />

Hills to take in the stunning views. <strong>The</strong>n drive<br />

past the unmarked turnoff to the old Paramount<br />

mine site, turn left at a four-way road junction<br />

onto Road 168, and proceed seven miles down<br />

scenic Aurora Canyon to the historic town of<br />

Bridgeport. To complete the loop, travel seven<br />

miles south on US 395 to the Bodie turnoff.<br />

For any excursions into the Bodie Hills, bring<br />

adequate food, water, and other supplies.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Tom Harrison 1:63,360 Bodie Hills Map is a<br />

good resource for navigating the back roads beyond<br />

the park. <strong>The</strong> Humboldt-Toiyabe National<br />

Forest Map covers the broader region with<br />

slightly less detail. <strong>The</strong>se, as well as a variety of<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

books and brochures<br />

on the natural and<br />

cultural history of the<br />

region, are available<br />

at the Forest Service<br />

office in Bridgeport.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Lee Vining Chamber<br />

of Commerce has<br />

a well-stocked bookstore<br />

with maps and<br />

books on the region’s<br />

history. Both Bridgeport<br />

and Lee Vining<br />

offer a range of mo-<br />

395<br />

Mammoth<br />

Lakes<br />

tels and restaurants, as well as service stations<br />

and small grocery stores for supplies. <strong>The</strong> Virginia<br />

Creek Settlement (760-932-7780), one<br />

mile north of the main Bodie Road on US 395,<br />

serves thick burgers and an excellent selection<br />

of pizzas. Go to www.bridgeportcalifornia.com<br />

or www.leevining.com or call 760-647-6595 for<br />

more information.<br />

Bodie State Historic Park (760-647-6445) is<br />

open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. in summer; 9 a.m.<br />

to 3 p.m. in winter (or as posted), when the park<br />

and the hills are accessible only by skis, snowshoes,<br />

or snowmobiles (using existing roadways).<br />

Entrance fees and hours do not apply to<br />

those merely passing through the park to reach<br />

the Bodie Hills. <strong>The</strong>re is no camping at the<br />

park, but there are limited dispersed campsites<br />

on BLM land along certain roads in the Bodie<br />

Hills. Check with rangers at Bodie for details<br />

and current conditions.<br />

395<br />

CALIFORNIA<br />

Bridgeport<br />

YOSEMITE<br />

NATIONAL<br />

PARK<br />

182<br />

Lee<br />

Vining<br />

NEVADA<br />

Bodie<br />

Hills<br />

270<br />

Bodie State<br />

Historic Park<br />

167<br />

Mono<br />

Lake<br />

120<br />

Lake<br />

Crowley<br />

Detail<br />

Area<br />

CA.<br />

© John Dittli<br />

57


my wilderness<br />

By Tashia Tucker<br />

If<br />

you were asked why you support <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong>, what makes you care about the work we<br />

do, or why it’s important, chances are you’d answer<br />

each question roughly the same. You would<br />

hearken back to a place you love or a vivid memory from<br />

the great outdoors. You might catch yourself daydreaming<br />

about an especially delicious s’more, skipping rocks in the<br />

lake with your family, a nap in the hammock, or a spectacular<br />

hike through a wildflower meadow.<br />

That’s why <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong><br />

and Frontier Airlines jumped at the opportunity<br />

to team up on the my wilderness<br />

campaign. While <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong> works tirelessly to protect<br />

America’s great wildlife and wild places,<br />

Frontier takes people to these places,<br />

© Kai Hagen<br />

enabling them to understand what’s at stake and then get<br />

involved.<br />

Since April 2011, we’ve featured moms and dads,<br />

photographers, writers, celebrities, activists, and recreationists<br />

who have shared their wilderness experiences on<br />

our Web site, reminding us why wilderness is worth fighting<br />

for.<br />

Take Lynn Donaldson, Montana tumbleweed photographer<br />

and wilderness mom. She supports<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> because<br />

she wants her young children to have the<br />

memorable experiences in wilderness that<br />

have shaped her.<br />

<strong>The</strong>n there’s Frederick County<br />

Commissioner Kai Hagen of Maryland.<br />

He has been committed to wilderness<br />

58 1-800-THE-WILD


© Lynn Donaldson<br />

my wilderness has featured the stories of Lynn Donaldson and her family, the Hagens (on bench), and Dudley Edmondson.<br />

protection ever since his first escape from the inner<br />

city to the country.<br />

Dudley Edmonson is so invested in the power<br />

of wilderness that he leads boys on backpacking<br />

trips through Washington’s North Cascades so<br />

that they can become tomorrow’s “wilderness<br />

sentinels.”<br />

my wilderness celebrates everyday heroes—<br />

each and every one of our supporters—for their<br />

dedication to saving America’s last great places.<br />

And we ask you to have some fun with us. You<br />

can enter contests to win wilderness trips, watch<br />

videos featuring wild places, get outdoors tips,<br />

and learn more about the places you enjoy.<br />

Frontier Airlines has added to the fun with<br />

a Spokesanimal of the Month. Here’s a message<br />

from Sarge the Bald Eagle: “I’m proud to be the<br />

national symbol of the United States. And there’s<br />

no place I’d rather strut my stuff than on the tail<br />

of a Frontier Airlines flight. It’s true that I don’t<br />

need a plane to fly, but Frontier always takes me<br />

to greater heights. That’s why you’ll often see me<br />

perched planeside.”<br />

We want to see more of your best my wilderness<br />

places, stories, poems, and campfire recipes.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re’s a place for everyone in my wilderness, no<br />

matter your favorite outdoor activity or place. <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>, Frontier Airlines, and all our<br />

supporters are always dreaming up fresh ideas<br />

and stories, and we hope you’ll join us in the fun<br />

at my.wilderness.org.<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

© Kai Hagen<br />

© Carrol Henderson<br />

Airline with a Mission<br />

Frontier Airlines operates more than 500 daily flights from<br />

hubs in Denver, Milwaukee, and Kansas City, serving over 80<br />

destinations in the United States, Mexico, and Costa Rica. <strong>The</strong><br />

low-fare airline flies to Alaska and many other places where<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> is especially active.<br />

Frontier is dedicated to a culture that ensures the<br />

commitment of its 5,500 employees to the environment. ”This<br />

is one of the ways we are delivering on our promise to be a<br />

better and different airline,” says Bryan Bedford, chairman,<br />

president, and CEO.<br />

Frontier ranks third among the 20 largest U.S. airlines<br />

in energy efficiency, according to a recent analysis by Brighter<br />

Planet, but Frontier is aiming higher. To get there, the airline<br />

is converting to a more fuel-efficient fleet. Frontier has placed<br />

orders for 40 Bombardier C-Series aircraft (which emit 20<br />

percent fewer greenhouse gases than any plane currently in<br />

production) and 80 Airbus A320neo jets (which use 15 percent<br />

less fuel than the current A320). By using the A320neo jets,<br />

Frontier will cut fuel use by nearly 370,000 gallons—the annual<br />

consumption of 1,000 mid-size cars—and will reduce CO 2<br />

emissions by 3,600 tons a year. <strong>The</strong> company also is engaged<br />

in other initiatives to significantly reduce fuel consumption<br />

and the resulting damage to the environment.<br />

For more, visit<br />

FrontierAirlines.com.<br />

59


Paying Tribute To Environmental Heroes<br />

Teamwork. That’s how wilderness is saved. But teams need leaders, and <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> believes in honoring those citizens who have gone above and<br />

beyond in their efforts to protect America’s wildlands and wildlife. Over the past<br />

year, we have presented the following awards:<br />

© Mark Silva<br />

Former Secretary of the<br />

Interior Bruce Babbitt<br />

received our Ansel Adams<br />

Award, presented to a<br />

current or former federal<br />

official who has shown<br />

exceptional commitment<br />

to conservation and the<br />

fostering of an American land<br />

ethic. “Bruce is a visionary<br />

who, as Arizona’s governor<br />

and later as interior secretary,<br />

compiled a sterling record,”<br />

said William H. Meadows,<br />

president of <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong>. “He capped his<br />

government service with<br />

the establishment of the<br />

26-million-acre National<br />

Landscape Conservation<br />

System.”<br />

A decade of work to help<br />

make this system successful<br />

is a major reason why<br />

Hansjörg Wyss received<br />

the Robert Marshall Award,<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>’s<br />

highest honor for a private<br />

citizen. “Hansjörg and the<br />

Wyss Foundation have<br />

worked tirelessly to protect<br />

America’s natural heritage,<br />

particularly in the Rockies,”<br />

Meadows said. “Though<br />

he is largely unknown to<br />

the American people, his<br />

© Mark Silva<br />

© Robin Sell, BLM<br />

Bruce Babbitt Hansjörg Wyss Roy Smith Lauren Oakes<br />

generosity is going to make<br />

a difference for generations<br />

to come.” Wyss has been a<br />

member of our Governing<br />

Council since 1993.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Olaus and Margaret<br />

Murie Award honors frontline<br />

state or federal land<br />

management employees, or<br />

any “young environmentalists,”<br />

especially those who<br />

are innovative and have<br />

taken risks to promote the<br />

principles of natural resource<br />

conservation. <strong>The</strong> 2011<br />

recipient was Roy Smith,<br />

the key water staffer with<br />

the U.S. Bureau of Land<br />

Management (BLM) in<br />

Colorado. “Water is undoubtedly<br />

the most contentious<br />

environmental issue<br />

in this state,” said Suzanne<br />

Jones, who directs our work<br />

in Colorado, “and ensuring<br />

the flow of water to wilderness<br />

is critically important.<br />

Roy has been extraordinarily<br />

effective in making this<br />

happen for the Dominguez<br />

Canyon <strong>Wilderness</strong> and BLM<br />

lands across the state—and<br />

amazingly, does so in a<br />

manner that brings people<br />

together.”<br />

Steve Scauzillo of the San<br />

Gabriel Valley Newspapers<br />

received the Aldo Leopold<br />

Award for Distinguished<br />

Editorial Writing. Meadows<br />

praised him as “a steadfast<br />

voice asking why a road<br />

must be built through a<br />

state park and what we will<br />

lose when a grove of 200<br />

oaks and sycamores—more<br />

than a century old—are cut<br />

down. He has dared the<br />

public to dream of a national<br />

recreation area that includes<br />

the San Gabriel River in<br />

L.A.’s urban backyard.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> Gloria Barron<br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong><br />

Scholarship was awarded to<br />

Lauren E. Oakes for<br />

her proposed research on<br />

climate change’s impact<br />

on yellow cedar in Alaska’s<br />

coastal rain forest. A native<br />

of Stamford, Connecticut,<br />

who graduated from Brown<br />

University, Oakes is a Ph.D.<br />

student at Stanford. “This<br />

scholarship aims to find the<br />

Aldo Leopolds and Rachel<br />

Carsons of the future,”<br />

says Tom Barron, an author<br />

and long-time member of<br />

our Governing Council. He<br />

established the fellowship<br />

Elise Kahl, Melissa Rickert,<br />

Meagan Leatherbury<br />

Steve Scauzillo<br />

to honor his mother, who<br />

was a dedicated educator<br />

and tireless advocate for<br />

wilderness.<br />

Three University of<br />

Wisconsin-Stevens Point<br />

graduate students received<br />

Gaylord Nelson Earth Day<br />

Fellowships in 2011. Elise<br />

Kahl of Perrysburg, Ohio;<br />

Meagan Leatherbury of<br />

Avondale Estates, Georgia;<br />

and Melissa Rickert of<br />

Rhinelander, Wisconsin,<br />

were recognized for making<br />

significant contributions to<br />

promoting conservation<br />

ethics and environmental<br />

education, and for exhibiting<br />

future leadership potential<br />

in the field of environmental<br />

education. We initiated<br />

these fellowships in 1990 to<br />

honor Earth Day’s founder,<br />

former U.S. Senator from<br />

Wisconsin Gaylord Nelson,<br />

long-time counselor of <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>, who<br />

died in 2005.<br />

60 1-800-THE-WILD<br />

© Steve Menzel/UWSP


Conservation Enthusiast<br />

CROSSWORD PuzzLE By ALEx STARKEy<br />

Conservation Enthusiast Crossword By Alex Starkey<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13<br />

14 15 16<br />

17<br />

1<br />

18 19<br />

20 21 22<br />

23 24 25 26 27 28<br />

29 30 31 32 33<br />

34 35 36 37 38 39 40<br />

41 42 43 44<br />

45 46 47<br />

48 49 50 51 52 53<br />

54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61<br />

62 63 64 65<br />

66 67 68 69 70<br />

71 72 73<br />

74 75 76<br />

5. Last owner of the land which became<br />

Arlington National Cemetary, Robert __<br />

6. Animal one may see at Denali National<br />

7. "Use Common ____", Grand Canyon<br />

warning<br />

8. New England's only national park<br />

9. Home of the Colossus<br />

10. Super market convenience<br />

11. ____ and Run<br />

12. Period of time<br />

13. Military draft organization (abbr)<br />

21. Plead<br />

25. Start over<br />

26. Like the ponies at Chincoteague Nation<br />

Wildlife Refuge<br />

© John McCarthy<br />

ACROSS<br />

Across 1. Land ___ & Environmental Law<br />

47. Superman enemy<br />

48. Often speaks out Down<br />

27. Operated a car<br />

28. Forest Glen _____, home of the Nation<br />

1. 4. Land ___ ___ and & Environmental Haws 52. Need to 52. pay Need to pay 1. Application Park Seminary 31. Tic-___-Toe Historic District<br />

Law<br />

54. Use one’s eyes<br />

2. Only National Park south of 33. ___ the Season<br />

8. National Park in Utah and 54. Use one's eyes 30. Connecticut's ___ Whitney Forest, a 20<br />

4. ___ and Haws<br />

55. Goes up<br />

the Equator, American ___ 34. Foundation<br />

8. National home Park of in the Utah Three and Gossips 58. Common 55. carbon Goes emitters up 3. Expression of shock acre forest 35. Entertain to protect water quality<br />

home of the Three Gossips 62. Willie Nelson song, __ the 4. Independence ___. National 36. Gumption<br />

14. Sink Sink Gradually<br />

Forest 58. Common carbon Park emitters Service historic site 31. Tic-___-Toe 38. Wind Cave National Park’s<br />

15. Nature’s soothing ingredient 63. Wise advice from Edward 5. Last owner of the land which famous Bed of ____<br />

16. 15. Seats Nature's soothing ingredient Abbey (part 62. 3) Willie Nelson song, became __ Arlington the National 33. ___ the 39. Season Large, beautiful tree<br />

17. I ____ Rock<br />

66. “_____ of the good life” Cemetary, Robert _____<br />

42. ___ Speedwagon<br />

16. Seats Forest<br />

34. Foundation<br />

18. Ponce de ____ Springs State 69. Item used at Rocky Mountain 6. Animal one may see at 43. Also<br />

Park 17. I ____ Rock National Park 63. Wise advice from Denali Edward National Park 35. Entertain 44. Plant<br />

19. Life lines<br />

70. ___ to Billie Joe<br />

7. “Use Common ____”, Grand 49. ____ Lake National Park,<br />

20. 18. Wise Ponce advice de from ____ Edward Springs State 71. Park President in office Abbey when (part 3) Canyon warning 36. Gumption body of water filled only by<br />

Abbey (part 1)<br />

22. 19. Pesticide Life lines banned in the US<br />

Badlands and <strong>The</strong>odore<br />

8. New England’s only national precipitation<br />

Roosevelt were 66. designated "_____ of as the good park life" 38. Wind Cave 50. Ones National who take Park's sight famous Bed of _<br />

in 1972- an action linked to the national parks<br />

9. Home of the Colossus 53. Prefix for environmental<br />

20. Wise advice from Edward 69. Item used at Rocky Mountain 39. Large, beautiful tree<br />

comeback of the bald eagle 72. Ardent<br />

10. Super market convenience terms<br />

23. Simplicity Abbey (part 1) 73. Sleep stage (abbr) National Park 11. ____ and Run 42. ___ Speedwagon<br />

56. Short piece of writing on a<br />

24. Creepy<br />

74. Instructors<br />

12. Period of time<br />

single subject<br />

26. 22. US Pesticide Govt health banned watch dogin<br />

the 75. US Cravings in 70. ___ to Billie Joe 13. Military draft organization 43. Also 57. Get the answer<br />

29. Acquire<br />

76. Places where ambulences (abbr)<br />

32. ______ 1972- Sierra an Land action Trustlinked<br />

may to the go (abbr) 71. President in office 21. Plead when<br />

59. Previously<br />

44. Plant 60. Biker<br />

34. Could comeback be for plastic of the bags bald or eagle<br />

bear trapping<br />

37. 23. Swimming Simplicity pool divisions<br />

Badlands and <strong>The</strong>odore<br />

25. Start over 49. ____ Lake 61. Place National for plant buds Park, body of water<br />

26. Like the ponies at<br />

62. Analogy words<br />

Roosevelt were Chincoteague designated National as Wildlife filled only 64. Chinese by precipitation<br />

dish Chow ____<br />

40. Saugus ____Works, national<br />

historic 24. Creepy site in Massachusetts<br />

Refuge<br />

national parks27.<br />

Operated a car<br />

65. Teaching PHDs<br />

50. Ones 66. who Play take part sight<br />

41. Wise advice from Edward<br />

Abbey 26. US (part Govt 2) health watch dog 72. Ardent<br />

28. Forest Glen _____, home 67. 19th letter in the Greek<br />

of the National Park Seminary 53. Prefix alphabet for environmental terms<br />

45. 29. Certain Acquire<br />

46. “_____ old for this!”<br />

47. 32. Superman ______ enemy Sierra Land Trust<br />

73. Sleep stage (abbr) Historic District 56. Short 68. piece Exhibit, of writing “<strong>The</strong> ___ of on Zion a single subje<br />

30. Connecticut’s ___ Whitney National Park”<br />

74. Instructors Forest, a 20,000-acre forest 57. to Get the answer<br />

48. Often speaks out<br />

34. Could be for plastic bags or 75. Cravings<br />

protect water quality<br />

59. Answers on page 62<br />

Previously<br />

bear trapping 76. Places where ambulences 60. Biker<br />

37. www.wilderness.org<br />

Swimming pool divisions may go (abbr)<br />

61. Place for plant buds 61<br />

40. DOWN 62. Analogy words


Continued from page 50<br />

“We remember when our parents took<br />

us for the first time . . . and then we<br />

as parents pass them on to our own<br />

children.” Cronon sees family visits to<br />

parks as “a kind of intimate transmission<br />

from generation to generation to<br />

generation of the love of place, the<br />

love of nation that the national parks<br />

are meant to stand for.”<br />

In 2010 Yosemite welcomed more<br />

than four million people; Yellowstone<br />

more than 3.6 million. With the economy<br />

struggling to recover, the parks<br />

are an increasingly popular destination<br />

for families. Of course, family<br />

vacations have changed; families<br />

are smaller, trips are shorter, airplane<br />

Continued from page 23<br />

remains of interest to many members<br />

on both sides of aisle. “It’s one<br />

of very few programs that has success<br />

stories in every congressional<br />

district, where constituents can say,<br />

‘Having these open spaces and recreation<br />

contributes to the life I want<br />

for my kids.’”<br />

Take Action<br />

To Save <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

travel has increased, and electronic<br />

gadgets have replaced billboards as<br />

entertainment. What remains constant<br />

is the passing on of a love of our nation’s<br />

land to future generations on a<br />

visit together to the national parks.<br />

Susan S. Rugh, a professor of history at<br />

Brigham Young University, is the author of<br />

Are We <strong>The</strong>re Yet? <strong>The</strong><br />

Golden Age of American<br />

Family Vacations. She<br />

is now writing a book<br />

about the history of<br />

motels in America.<br />

Kathy Shorr’s work has appeared in a number<br />

of publications, among them <strong>The</strong> Boston<br />

Globe, National Geographic Green Guide, and<br />

<strong>The</strong> Trust for Public<br />

Land’s Land & People.<br />

She lives in Wellfleet,<br />

Massachusetts, just<br />

a few miles from the<br />

North of Highland<br />

Camping Area.<br />

as a member of <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>, you’ve already established<br />

your commitment to wilderness protection. Now, we hope you’ll<br />

take the added step of becoming an online advocate for wilderness.<br />

it’s simple, and free. Just subscribe to Wildalert, and we’ll send you<br />

regular notices about easy actions you can take to protect wildlife and<br />

wilderness. Learn more at: www.wilderness.org/wildalert.<br />

GOVERNING COuNCIL<br />

Edward A. Ames, Riverdale, Ny<br />

James R. Baca, Albuquerque, NM<br />

Thomas A. Barron, Boulder, CO<br />

Richard Blum, San Francisco, CA<br />

David Bonderman, Fort Worth, Tx*<br />

Crandall Bowles, Charlotte, NC<br />

William M. Bumpers, Cabin John, MD<br />

Majora Carter, Bronx, Ny<br />

Bethine Church, Boise, ID<br />

Bertram J. Cohn, New york, Ny<br />

William J. Cronon, Ph.D., Madison, WI, Vice Chair*<br />

Brenda S. Davis, Ph.D., Bozeman, MT*<br />

Christopher J. Elliman, New york, Ny<br />

Joseph H. Ellis, Cornwall, CT<br />

David J. Field, Gladwyne, PA<br />

George T. Frampton, New york, Ny<br />

Jerry F. Franklin, Ph.D., Issaquah, WA<br />

Caroline M. Getty, Corona Del Mar, CA<br />

Reginald “Flip” Hagood, Washington, DC<br />

Marcia Kunstel, Jackson, Wy, Secretary*<br />

Kevin Luzak, New york, Ny, Treasurer*<br />

Michael A. Mantell, Sacramento, CA<br />

Dave Matthews, Charlottesville, VA<br />

Molly Mcusic, Chevy Chase, MD, Vice Chair*<br />

Heather Kendall Miller, Anchorage, AK<br />

Scott A. Nathan, Boston, MA<br />

Jaime Pinkham, St. Paul, MN<br />

Rebecca L. Rom, Edina, MN<br />

<strong>The</strong>odore Roosevelt IV, New york, Ny<br />

Patrick L. Smith, Arlee, MT<br />

Cathy Douglas Stone, Boston, MA<br />

Sara Vera, Seattle, WA<br />

Douglas Walker, Seattle, WA, Chair*<br />

Christina Wong, Tempe, Az<br />

Hansjörg Wyss, West Chester, PA*<br />

* member of Executive Committee<br />

HONORARy COuNCIL<br />

Frances G. Beinecke, Bronx, Ny<br />

Robert O. Blake, Washington, DC<br />

Gilman Ordway, Wilson, Wy<br />

Charles Wilkinson, Boulder, CO<br />

SENIOR STAFF<br />

William H. Meadows, President<br />

Frederick L. Silbernagel III, Senior VP<br />

(Finance & Administration)<br />

Amy Vedder, Senior VP (Conservation)<br />

Paula Wolferseder yabar, Senior VP<br />

(Membership & Development)<br />

Sara Barth, Vice President, Regional Conservation<br />

Melanie Beller, Vice President, Public Policy<br />

Ashford Chancelor, Vice President, Finance<br />

Lynn Croneberger, Vice President, Development<br />

Lisa L. Loehr, Vice President, Operations<br />

Ann J. Morgan, Vice President, Public Lands<br />

Spencer Phillips, Vice President, Research<br />

Jane Taylor, Vice President,<br />

Communications & Marketing<br />

U S E H E M S A R C H E S<br />

S A G A L O E C H A I R S<br />

A M A L E O N A O R T A S<br />

G O D B L E S S D D T<br />

E A S E E E R I E F D A<br />

G E T E A S T E R N<br />

B A N L A N E S I R O N<br />

A M E R I C A L E T S S A V E<br />

S U R E I M T O O L E X<br />

I S V O C A L O W E<br />

S E E R I S E S C A R S<br />

I A M S O M E O F I T<br />

A T A S T E S L E D O D E<br />

C A R T E R A V I D R E M<br />

T U T O R S Y E N S E R S<br />

62 1-800-THE-WILD<br />

© Jeff L. Fox<br />

© Kent Miles<br />

© Robert Finch


A Tribute to David Getches<br />

David Getches, one of the nation’s<br />

foremost authorities on water rights and<br />

Native American law, died July 5, 2011,<br />

of pancreatic cancer. He was 68. “It hurts<br />

to lose a hero and a friend,” said Jaime<br />

Pinkham, a Nez Perce leader who served<br />

alongside Getches on our Governing<br />

Council for 11 years. “His battle with cancer<br />

was lost so quickly that it seemed to lack the<br />

justice and fairness that characterized his<br />

five decades of public service.”<br />

A professor at the University of<br />

Colorado Law School for 32 years and<br />

eventually its dean, Getches at one point<br />

headed the state’s Department of Natural<br />

Resources. “We depended on him for legal<br />

advice on all things water and wilderness,<br />

for help with recalcitrant politicians, for his<br />

ingenious solutions to policy challenges<br />

large and small, or sometimes just a kind<br />

THE WILDERNESS SOCIETY<br />

www.wilderness.org<br />

and encouraging word,” said Suzanne<br />

Jones, who directs <strong>The</strong> <strong>Wilderness</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong>’s programs in Colorado. “He was<br />

like a towering ponderosa pine to us—one<br />

that we thought would always be there,<br />

deep-rooted, well-equipped with humor<br />

and intelligence to withstand drought and<br />

wildfire, providing shelter and inspiration<br />

to so many, a mighty forest anchor .”<br />

Getches was the founding executive<br />

director of the Native American Rights<br />

Fund, a national, nonprofit American<br />

Indian-interest law firm in Boulder. “He<br />

had a passion for both the natural world<br />

and for Native people,” Pinkham recalled.<br />

“Those lucky enough to get to know<br />

David,” said <strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong> President<br />

William H. Meadows, who spoke at<br />

Getches’ memorial service, “were as<br />

struck by his personal qualities as by his<br />

2012 CALENDAR<br />

© Photo: Marc Muench/Muench Photography, Inc. Calendar: BrownTrout Publishers Inc.<br />

scholarship. He had an unbelievable work<br />

ethic, rock-solid integrity, a belief in service<br />

to others, an easy smile, and genuine<br />

humility. He made the most of his years,<br />

and all of us who learned from him will<br />

help his legacy endure.”<br />

ENJOY 2012<br />

WITH THE<br />

WILDERNESS<br />

SOCIETY<br />

CALENDAR<br />

14” x 12” wall calendar with<br />

large daily planning boxes,<br />

only $14.99 (including<br />

shipping & handling)<br />

Great holiday gift idea!<br />

To order, go to<br />

www.calendars.com<br />

and search for<br />

WILDERNESS SOCIETY.<br />

Or mail your order, with<br />

check payable to <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>, to:<br />

Calendar Order, <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Wilderness</strong> <strong>Society</strong>,<br />

1615 M St., NW,<br />

Washington, DC 20036<br />

© Bill Weber/Amy Vedder<br />

63

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