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888681-The-Malay-Archipelago-by-Alfred-Russell-Wallace

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forest. We had very light winds, and it therefore took us thirty<br />

hours to make the passage of sixty miles to the low, or flat, but<br />

equally forest-covered Aru Islands, where we anchored in the<br />

harbour of Dobbo at nine in the evening of the next day.<br />

My first voyage in a prau being thus satisfactorily terminated, I<br />

must, before taking leave of it for some months, bear testimony<br />

to the merits of the queer old-world vessel. Setting aside all<br />

ideas of danger, which is probably, after all, not more than in<br />

any other craft, I must declare that I have never, either before<br />

or since, made a twenty days' voyage so pleasantly, or perhaps,<br />

more correctly speaking, with so little discomfort. This I<br />

attribute chiefly to having my small cabin on deck, and entirely<br />

to myself, to having my own servants to wait upon me, and to the<br />

absence of all those marine-store smells of paint, pitch, tallow,<br />

and new cordage, which are to me insupportable. Something is also<br />

to be put down to freedom from all restraint of dress, hours of<br />

meals, &c., and to the civility and obliging disposition of the<br />

captain. I had agreed to have my meals with him, but whenever I<br />

wished it I had them in my own berth, and at what hours I felt<br />

inclined. <strong>The</strong> crew were all civil and good-tempered, and with<br />

very little discipline everything went on smoothly, and the<br />

vessel was kept very clean and in pretty good order, so that on<br />

the whole I was much delighted with the trip, and was inclined to<br />

rate the luxuries of the semi-barbarous prau as surpassing those<br />

of the most magnificent screw-steamer, that highest result of our<br />

civilisation.<br />

174

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