Federated Malay States Railways : pamphlet of ... - Sabrizain.org
Federated Malay States Railways : pamphlet of ... - Sabrizain.org
Federated Malay States Railways : pamphlet of ... - Sabrizain.org
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4:<br />
on the right again, the Birch Memorial Clock<br />
Tower, recently erected to the memory <strong>of</strong> James<br />
Wheeler Woodford Birch, first British Resident <strong>of</strong><br />
Perak, who was assassinated by <strong>Malay</strong>s. Continuing<br />
past this along Hugh Low Street, named<br />
after the second British Resident, we go right<br />
through to the bridge over the Kinta river, passing,<br />
on the right, the pretty People's Park, with its<br />
decorative Chinese temple on the edge, and noting<br />
the <strong>Malay</strong> mosque opposite it across the river.<br />
Crossing the bridge we continue through the new<br />
town, and when the shop-houses end we swing to<br />
the left down a side street and keep straight on at<br />
right angles to our previous course until we reach<br />
a main road running parallel to Hugh Low<br />
Street. Here we turn left-handed and again cross<br />
the Kinta river, this time by the Birch bridge,<br />
named after the murdered Resident's son, Sir<br />
E. W. Birch, who, thirty years after that crime,<br />
in turn became Resident <strong>of</strong> Perak. From this<br />
bridge we run straight to the recreation ground,<br />
and, bearing to the right to go round it, pass the<br />
Indian Muhammadan mosque, climb the rise to<br />
the English Church, turn left-handed again, pass<br />
the Club and so arrive back at the railway station.<br />
This round in a rikisha (25 cents, jd.) will give a<br />
very good idea <strong>of</strong> Ipoh and enable the visitor to<br />
realise that it is by no means necessary that an<br />
Eastern town should be a crazy congeries <strong>of</strong> filthy<br />
and dilapidated rookeries as so many are. A<br />
pleasant evening's run, also in a rikisha, is along<br />
Hugh Low Street, across the bridge and on until<br />
the road forks. Take the left hand fork and go on<br />
as far as the turn to the racecourse, turn down<br />
this, past the Golf Club, and so bearing left-<br />
handed come back on the same road, but before<br />
reaching the fork branch <strong>of</strong>f lo the right and<br />
re-enter Ipoh by way <strong>of</strong> Birch bridge and<br />
the Padang. The view from the racecourse<br />
24 -<br />
towards the limestone cliffs and the higher hills<br />
<strong>of</strong> the main range behind them is at all times<br />
beautiful, but perhaps most impressive when a<br />
distant evening thunderstorm majestically proceeds<br />
along them, its black-blue clouds lowering above<br />
the white-splashed rocks, and its whole scheme <strong>of</strong><br />
colour shot through and through with those violet<br />
vapours into which darkness at length melts the<br />
dying light <strong>of</strong> day.<br />
IPOH ROCK TEMPLES.<br />
The nearest rock temples, but by no means<br />
the finest, are at Gunong Chiroh. To reach these,<br />
leave the railway station by the Kuala Kangsar<br />
road and continue right along it till you reach the<br />
level crossing. Do not cross but keep to the right,<br />
and, leaving the marble works on the left, make for<br />
the limestone rock. Nature has so obligingly<br />
disposed the approach that a rikisha can pass along<br />
the track between the rock on the left and<br />
stalactite dropping to meet the rising stalagmite on<br />
the right. But motors must keep to the road<br />
which runs a few yards below, between the pen-<br />
dant white rocks and the yellow Kinta river, bearer<br />
<strong>of</strong> silt washed out <strong>of</strong> mines. The first little shrine<br />
is Tamil. Its exterior is not impressive, but<br />
looking behind the outer altar one sees with a little<br />
shock <strong>of</strong> surprise a tiny glimmering flame set afar<br />
<strong>of</strong>f down the mouth <strong>of</strong> a black passage in the rock.<br />
Entering the passage, or ever you come to the<br />
bottom there<strong>of</strong>, you reach a second altar appar-<br />
ently closing the way, but just enough space has<br />
been left for slim people to slip past and go,<br />
tripping over chance stalagmites, avoiding chance<br />
stalactites, along a dark, gloomy and narrow run<br />
way in the rock, breathing a heavy smell <strong>of</strong> incense,<br />
and at last arriving at the tiny glimmering flame<br />
which you find fitfully illuminating two tiny gods,<br />
glistening with votive oil, decked with while and<br />
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