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The Beauty Curse - Frock Paper Scissors

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AUSTRALIA<br />

FROCK paper scissors<br />

<strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Beauty</strong><br />

<strong>Curse</strong><br />

FEARLESS<br />

ISSUE 4 2009<br />

the<br />

Fashion<br />

Graduates<br />

brave<br />

the<br />

storm


create the future with us<br />

create the future with us<br />

Imagine a place where individual creativity is<br />

encouraged<br />

Imagine a place<br />

across<br />

where<br />

boundaries,<br />

individual<br />

where<br />

creativity<br />

you<br />

is<br />

can<br />

collaborate<br />

encouraged<br />

with<br />

across<br />

like-minded<br />

boundaries,<br />

people<br />

where<br />

on<br />

you<br />

projects<br />

can<br />

and<br />

collaborate<br />

works from<br />

with<br />

diverse<br />

like-minded<br />

disciplines.<br />

people on projects<br />

and works from diverse disciplines.<br />

QUT Creative Industries is such a place, offering<br />

courses<br />

QUT Creative<br />

and research<br />

Industries<br />

opportunities<br />

is such a place,<br />

within<br />

offering<br />

a<br />

creative<br />

courses<br />

community.<br />

and research opportunities within a<br />

creative community.<br />

A unique range of study areas – including<br />

creative<br />

A unique<br />

writing,<br />

range of<br />

film<br />

study<br />

and<br />

areas<br />

television,<br />

– including<br />

new media,<br />

visual<br />

creative<br />

and<br />

writing,<br />

performing<br />

film and<br />

arts,<br />

television,<br />

technical<br />

new<br />

production,<br />

media,<br />

dance,<br />

visual and<br />

music<br />

performing<br />

and design<br />

arts,<br />

–<br />

technical<br />

allow students<br />

production,<br />

to<br />

develop<br />

dance, music<br />

their creative<br />

and design<br />

practice<br />

– allow<br />

and<br />

students<br />

explore<br />

to<br />

their<br />

talents<br />

develop<br />

within<br />

their creative<br />

and beyond<br />

practice<br />

traditional<br />

and explore<br />

confines.<br />

their<br />

talents within and beyond traditional confines.<br />

And in offering Queensland’s only bachelor<br />

degree<br />

And in offering<br />

in fashion,<br />

Queensland’s<br />

QUT is leading<br />

only<br />

the<br />

bachelor<br />

way in<br />

preparing<br />

degree in<br />

graduates<br />

fashion, QUT<br />

for prime<br />

is leading<br />

roles<br />

the<br />

in the<br />

way in<br />

burgeoning<br />

preparing graduates<br />

fashion industry.<br />

for prime roles in the<br />

burgeoning fashion industry.<br />

Whether you’re seeking a degree to help launch<br />

your<br />

Whether<br />

career<br />

you’re<br />

or looking<br />

seeking<br />

for<br />

a<br />

ways<br />

degree<br />

to<br />

to<br />

stimulate<br />

help launch<br />

your<br />

creativity<br />

your career<br />

through<br />

or looking<br />

postgraduate<br />

for ways to<br />

study<br />

stimulate<br />

or<br />

your<br />

research,<br />

creativity through<br />

we will value<br />

postgraduate<br />

your creative<br />

study<br />

flair<br />

or<br />

and<br />

encourage<br />

research, we<br />

you<br />

will<br />

to<br />

value<br />

find your<br />

your<br />

own<br />

creative<br />

voice.<br />

flair and<br />

encourage you to find your own voice.<br />

More information<br />

More information<br />

Please phone (07) 3138 8114, email<br />

creativeindustries@qut.edu.au<br />

Please phone (07) 3138 8114, email<br />

or<br />

visit<br />

creativeindustries@qut.edu.au<br />

creativeindustries.qut.edu.au<br />

or<br />

visit creativeindustries.qut.edu.au<br />

To view examples of outstanding student work,<br />

please<br />

To view<br />

visit<br />

examples<br />

www.nowalls.qut.edu.au<br />

of outstanding student work,<br />

please visit www.nowalls.qut.edu.au<br />

00213J no. 00213J no. CRICOS CRICOS<br />

Queensland University of Technology Musk Avenue Kelvin Grove Qld 4059 qut.com CI-09-286<br />

Queensland University of Technology Musk Avenue Kelvin Grove Qld 4059 qut.com CI-09-286


Editors Let ter<br />

Welcome to the 2009 edition of<br />

<strong>Frock</strong> PaPer SciSSorS...<br />

When we were working towards this issue, what struck us most was the dedication,<br />

talent and daring attitude our team encompassed. Our love for all things new, innovative<br />

and edgy was the starting point for what is aptly entitled our Fearless issue. Here,<br />

we showcase the up-and-comers on the Brisbane fashion scene, with our QUT Fashion Graduate<br />

shoots, <strong>The</strong> Hunter Becomes the Hunted and <strong>The</strong> Final Cut. It is refreshing to see such a young<br />

group of designers with an exciting and inventive vision. Also, keeping true to our Brisbane roots,<br />

we take you on a journey of fashion through the city, in our women’s wear shoot, Into the Night.<br />

We have also addressed the emerging role of fashion, beauty and the contemporary woman in our<br />

features <strong>The</strong> Woman Destroyed and <strong>The</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> <strong>Curse</strong>. And while we discuss the Fearlessness<br />

of the fashionable new-woman (our cover is the perfect example); <strong>The</strong> Baccia Girl shoot<br />

uncovers the beauty of our landscape and the vintage finds that not only make for a high<br />

fashion moment, but also create an individuality and unique-ness that exemplifies the fearless.<br />

And so this is it - the result and celebration of months of hard work, dedication and now,<br />

excitement, to bring you the 2009 edition of <strong>Frock</strong> <strong>Paper</strong> <strong>Scissors</strong>. We trust that<br />

our vision translates, and will bring you as much joy as it has us. But most of all, may<br />

it inspire and encourage you to live fearlessly. As Cecil Beaton once said, “be daring, be<br />

different, be impractical, be anything that will assert integrity of purpose and imaginative<br />

vision against the ‘play-it-safers’, the creatures of the commonplace, the slaves of the ordinary”.<br />

Madelaine Brown Rebecca Dickson<br />

FROCK EDITORS<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors 1


FROCKpaper scissors<br />

EDITORS<br />

MADELAINE BROWN<br />

REBECCA DICKSON<br />

Art Director<br />

JOSEPHINE CAMPBELL<br />

Deptuty Art Director<br />

MACUSHLA KILVINGTON<br />

Features Editor<br />

KATIE GOSS<br />

Chief Sub-Editor<br />

PHOEBE PARSONS<br />

Fashion Editor<br />

AUSTIN MORO<br />

Deputy Fashion Editor<br />

BRETT BEVEGE<br />

Web Editor<br />

SARA DONALDSON<br />

Assistant Web Editor<br />

KELLY CHAI<br />

Contributing Web Assistant<br />

SABRINA MAN<br />

Managing Editors<br />

Kay McMahon<br />

Sandra Kafrouni<br />

Sub-Editing Team<br />

Bridget Barnett, Rhianna Bull, Jade Dunwoody, Ashleigh Elliott, Anna Havers, Rachel Howard, Eliarne Iezzi, Olivia Noakes, Megan Stephensen, Jiayi Ying<br />

Feature Writers<br />

Bridget Barnett, Rhianna Bull, Alexander Campbell, Josephine Campbell, Amy Cloumassis, Georgia Colclough, Felicity Cooney, Amanda Curtis, Jade Dunwoody,<br />

Ashleigh Elliott, Alexandra Gilfedder, Claire Grimshaw, Sara Hankiewicz, Ambre Harford-Birkett, Anna Havers, Ashlee Hill, Menefrida Horbino, Rachel Howard,<br />

Alexandra Hull, Eliarne Iezzi, Elizabeth Ljubinkovic, Jacqueline McWha, Cathey Niven, Olivia Noakes, Holly Ryan, Lucy Slater, Sarah Spear, Megan Stephensen,<br />

Jasmine Tan, Jillian Trevethan, Stephy Yang, Jiayi Ying<br />

Fashion Contributors<br />

Felicity Cooney, Brent Derepas, Rannulu De Zoysa, Clare Duffy, Cassandra Egan, Matisse Forman, Menefrida Horbino, Rachel Howard, Paloma Kennedy-Lopes, Mary<br />

McHugh, Phaedra Murray, Holly Ryan, Lucy Slater, Kim Touhy, Nathalia Viana, Natalia Vidovic<br />

Art<br />

Layout Alexander Campbell, Amy Cloumassis, Rannulu De Zoysa, Clare Duffy, Jade Dunwoody, Jessica Gunn, Sara Hankiewicz,<br />

Alexandra Hull, Jacqueline McWha, Sarah Spear, Kim Tuohy<br />

Illustrators Amy Cloumassis, Clare Duffy, Xenia Mazarakis, Luke Sarra<br />

Photo Editors Felicity Cooney, Clare Duffy, Jasmine Tan, Stephy Yang<br />

Photographers Yohan Budiman, Felicity Cooney, Clare Duffy, Jaclyn Fellows, Claire Grimshaw, Mike Hilburger, Belinda Holloway,<br />

Callie Marshall, Sophie Mills, Sarah Spear, Maximilian Tynan, Natalia Vidovic, Malin Viktoria<br />

PR<br />

PR Team Georgia Colclough, Amanda Curtis, Ashleigh Elliott, Alexandra Gilfedder, Ambre Harford-Birkett, Menefrida Horbino, Elizabeth Ljubinkovic, Megan Stephensen,<br />

Jillian Trevethan<br />

Chroniclers Felicia Tu & Milani Zepeda<br />

Models Beej Albany, Amy Boughen, Paige Bradford, Rob Bullock, Tiernan Cowling, Steve Fox, Luen Jacobs, James Jang, Rose Lindgren, Wendy Ma, Marianne Mackintosh,<br />

Adina Maree, Anna Stretton, Zoe <strong>The</strong>odore, Paula Kyle Walden, Sarah Waller, Kate Weatherston, Samuel Vucko, Ethan Widin<br />

Hair/Makeup Ellen Armstrong, Jessica Cameron, Sam Harris, Kali Mataitoga, Izaq Olomi, Isabelle Slater<br />

Special Thanks Natalie Denning, Gavin Sade, Paula Kyle Walden, QUT Fashion Graduates & Peter Cooney<br />

Sponsors Terry Duffy Optometrist<br />

For further information please email k.mcmahon@qut.edu.au


FROCK<br />

CONTENTS<br />

UPFRONT<br />

1 Editors’ Letter<br />

2 Contributors<br />

FASHION<br />

8 <strong>The</strong> Baccia Girl<br />

22 <strong>The</strong> Hunted becomes the Hunter<br />

28 <strong>The</strong> Final Cut<br />

34 Into the Night<br />

41 Brave the Storm<br />

FEATURES<br />

5 Fleur Wood Profile<br />

7 Hot Couture<br />

13 Paula Walden<br />

14 <strong>The</strong> Woman Destroyed<br />

16 Backstage Secrets<br />

18 Come Dive with Me<br />

20 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> <strong>Curse</strong><br />

33 And Her Underwear...is from Target<br />

39 Insiders Only<br />

40 <strong>The</strong> New Man<br />

55 <strong>The</strong> Lion, the Bitch and the Wardrobe<br />

ART & CULTURE<br />

6 Fashion the Dance<br />

46 Ink. Paint. Love.<br />

48 Test-tube Trinkets<br />

49 No Need to Fret<br />

50 Destination Brisbane<br />

51 Ole! Delicious Espana<br />

52 What’s Hot<br />

54 Southside Story<br />

paper scissors<br />

ISSUE 4 COVER:<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Mike Hilburger<br />

MODEL Anna Stretton<br />

FROCK paper scissors<br />

FEATURED ILLUSTRATIONS & GRAPHICS<br />

Macushla Kilvington


WANT MORE FROCK?<br />

www.frockpaperscissors.com<br />

FEATURING...<br />

exclusive online content<br />

articles<br />

blog<br />

street style<br />

behind-the-scenes<br />

QUT fashion graduates


Faith in Fashion<br />

fleur<br />

wood...<br />

Q & A<br />

If you could redesign a religious uniform what<br />

would it be?<br />

I really like the flowing robes of Tibetan Buddhism but I’d have to<br />

change the colour palette. I love this season’s fascination with the<br />

shade of nude.<br />

Where do you develop new fashion ideas<br />

from?<br />

I do definitely have intense moments of inspiration.<br />

Sometimes it’s a pair of shoes walking down the street,<br />

other times it’s a movie. Recently I’ve been inspired by the<br />

photographer Vee Speers. She’s a beautiful photographer<br />

with a really crazy, crooked view of the world.<br />

What is the most important lesson you’ve had<br />

to learn?<br />

When you make a mistake you have to make it quickly! Don’t<br />

stay there trying to fix it or just thinking that it will change:<br />

recognize it and change it quickly.<br />

What trend are you loving at the moment?<br />

I’m really loving the whole 80s revival. What I love most<br />

about it is how we are doing it – with a much more eclectic<br />

and twisted view.<br />

WE know Fleur Wood for her flowy<br />

dresses in BRIGHT colours, but what we<br />

didn’t know is how time in a Tibetan<br />

monastery steered her career...<br />

WORDS Rhianna Bull<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Courtesy of Fleur Wood<br />

AS an aspiring designer at age 23, Wood travelled for two<br />

years through the Indian Himalayas; living in a nunnery<br />

and designing for a culture preservation project for the Tibetan<br />

Exile Government. “I was really lost and I didn’t know what I<br />

wanted to do with my life,” she says.<br />

Working in public relations and specialising in retail sales and<br />

merchandising, Wood admitted to having no qualifications in<br />

manufacturing or design experience when accepting the job.<br />

She worked for an Institute called Norbulinka, a division of<br />

the Tibetan Exile Government dedicated to the preservation<br />

of Tibetan culture. Wood liaised with traditional artists and<br />

craftspeople, helping design projects and products which could<br />

then be exported overseas to help raise funds.<br />

Wood watched as the daily influx of Tibetan refugees, who<br />

had walked across the Indian Himalayas to Nepal and on to the<br />

Dharamsala refugee centre, steadily increased.<br />

Living in a nunnery for a short time, Wood was inspired by the<br />

strong, spiritual energy of the Tibetan people. Having little to<br />

no contact with the women of the monastery, due to their daily<br />

spiritual practices, Wood was left to meditate and study Eastern<br />

religion and philosophy. Her experiences helped her discover<br />

herself and develop moral standards which were then carried<br />

into her business. “I don’t want to make money from having<br />

animals killed,” she says.<br />

Wood’s morals also influenced her decision to donate to<br />

charity. “I think it’s about corporate responsibility. We do a lot<br />

of manufacturing in India and I feel like I have a responsibility<br />

to give back to the community which supports my business,”<br />

she says.<br />

Returning to Sydney at 25, Wood originally set up her<br />

business as an import company; bringing fabrics, scarves<br />

and shawls from India into Australia. From there she started<br />

developing products for other Australian companies and<br />

manufacturing them in India. After steadily building her<br />

reputation, Wood went on to launch her own self-named label<br />

initially consisting of four slip dresses in four different colours.<br />

Wood never thought she would achieve what she has.<br />

“I was only 25, never had a business before and had very<br />

limited work experience. I think a lot of the reasons for my<br />

success have been a combination of my naivety and hard work,”<br />

she says.<br />

With amazing life experience behind her, she leaves us with<br />

these words of wisdom: “It is important to do what you love,<br />

what you’re passionate about and the rest kind of just falls into<br />

place”.<br />

WX<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors 5


Dance<br />

Artists of Bavarian State Ballet<br />

Fashion the<br />

WORDS Katie Goss<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Wilfried Hoesl, courtesy of <strong>The</strong> Australian Ballet<br />

Dressing up in costume can make a<br />

girl dream; of becoming a celebrity<br />

fashion designer or a prima ballerina.<br />

<strong>The</strong> artful fusion of fashion and ballet can evoke<br />

images to inspire the imagination.<br />

This year, high fashion met high theatre in a<br />

new way when Karl Lagerfeld collaborated with<br />

the English National Ballet in tribute to legendary<br />

French company the Ballets Russes. He created a<br />

sublime costume – a torso made up of pink, pale<br />

grey and white feathers extending over a silk net<br />

below.<br />

Costume designer for the Queensland<br />

Performing Arts Company, Christopher Smith,<br />

describes the earlier twentieth century designs<br />

seen on the stage of the Ballets Russes as<br />

inventive and risk taking; something the world<br />

had never seen before. “<strong>The</strong> combination of the<br />

colours and shapes, the representing of different<br />

cultures absolutely got picked up by designers like<br />

[Paul] Poiret and appeared in high fashion and<br />

eventually worked its way down.”<br />

For the past 20 years, top fashion designer,<br />

Christian Lacroix, has designed costumes for<br />

22 landmark European and American theatre<br />

6 FROCK. paper. scissors<br />

<strong>The</strong> connections and<br />

collaborations between<br />

fashion and the arts<br />

continue to grow and<br />

connect in new and<br />

exciting ways.<br />

productions, acting as inspiration for many of<br />

his collections. This year, Paris based designers<br />

Viktor & Rolf made costumes for Carl Maria von<br />

Weber’s romantic opera Der Freischütz.<br />

In Australia, designer Akira Isogawa, who’s<br />

opened a fashion outlet in Ann Street Brisbane,<br />

has created costumes for four Sydney Dance<br />

Company productions. In 2003, he and 16<br />

other well-known designers, including Brisbane’s<br />

Easton Pearson, created their own versions of<br />

the iconic costumes for <strong>The</strong> Australian Ballet’s<br />

TUTU project. Pamela Easton and Lydia<br />

Pearson enjoyed “the chance to design a fantasy<br />

garment within the constraints of a strict set of<br />

formulas regarding fit and shape for dancing, and<br />

the thought of the beautiful bodies that it might<br />

grace”.<br />

<strong>The</strong> head of wardrobe at <strong>The</strong> Australian<br />

Ballet, Michael Williams, explains the specific<br />

considerations that need to be made in terms<br />

of designing for dancers. “Construction has<br />

to be durable to withstand the rigours of the<br />

choreography and we expect the costumes to<br />

withstand many performances over a period of<br />

many years. For this reason I think the level of<br />

construction is well above that of haute couture<br />

whilst the design is at least on the same level.”<br />

In his view, contemporary fashion will<br />

always impact on a costume designer, “and<br />

hence influence the outcome of the design even<br />

when set in another period”. For example, while<br />

working on the costumes for <strong>The</strong> Silver Rose<br />

(premiering in Brisbane in February 2010),<br />

modern fabrics have been used to recreate the<br />

Belle Epoch influenced costumes. “Availability of<br />

fabrics can restrict the realisation of the designer’s<br />

ideas,” he says.<br />

Fashionista and marketing manager of <strong>The</strong><br />

Australian Ballet, Kate Scott notes, “ballet and<br />

fashion have long influenced each other; with<br />

romantic tutus finding form in 1950’s couture,<br />

Audrey Hepburn popularising the ballet flat, and<br />

countless fashion designers lending their flair to<br />

ballet costumes”.<br />

<strong>The</strong> connections and collaborations between<br />

fashion and the arts continue to grow and<br />

connect in new and exciting ways. In Williams’<br />

view “when the audience reacts with awe as the<br />

curtain rises - that is the most rewarding outcome<br />

for a designer”. <strong>The</strong> dance goes on forever.<br />

WX


Haute Couture: this topical, but little<br />

explained pocket of the fashion<br />

industry, has been a booming source<br />

of income for the past 150 years – the crown<br />

jewel in the tiara of fashion. <strong>The</strong> purpose of haute<br />

couture has long been questioned, dismissed<br />

as an irrelevant extravagance, existing simply<br />

to seduce us into buying a fragrance or lipstick.<br />

Nevertheless, haute couture has undoubtedly<br />

manifested into an important marketing tool in<br />

defining and maintaining the status of high end<br />

luxury brands.<br />

Haute couture itself is expensive to produce<br />

and provides fashion houses with little revenue,<br />

as there’s only a small client base. <strong>The</strong> media buzz<br />

generated from haute couture shows boosts sales<br />

of the mass produced accessible lines of labels<br />

such as Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se creative designs are seen as a way for<br />

fashion houses to showcase their talent and build<br />

brand awareness.<br />

Chief executive of Christian Dior, Sidney<br />

Toledano, says haute couture brands generate<br />

publicity as an investment for their mass<br />

produced accessible lines – cosmetics and<br />

fragrances. “In this industry you either keep it on<br />

a small scale or go completely global,” Toledano<br />

says.<br />

<strong>The</strong> first haute couture fashion house was<br />

Hot Couture<br />

WORDS Megan Stephensen<br />

ILLUSTRATION Clare Duffy<br />

““<strong>The</strong> reason why haute couture<br />

exists and will always exist is<br />

because without it, there would be<br />

no fashion – ideas trickle down<br />

from couture collections and that<br />

is how fashion is born.”<br />

– Paul Hunt, 2009<br />

established in the mid nineteenth century<br />

by entrepreneur Charles Frederick Worth.<br />

He provided a paragon of the most beautiful<br />

clothing, handcrafted with exquisite detail and<br />

sought after by thousands. Nowadays, haute<br />

couture is used as a tool for positioning and<br />

marketing a brand, adding to its visibility and<br />

prestige. It assures consumers of its quality, and<br />

helps push sales of mass produced goods.<br />

Brisbane couture fashion designer, Paul<br />

Hunt, believes the ‘trickledown effect’ provides<br />

consumers with a greater accessibility to haute<br />

couture. “Haute couture is used as a clever<br />

marketing tactic to promote a label’s mass<br />

produced luxury goods, and as long as consumers<br />

keep buying [lipsticks and perfumes from the<br />

haute couture brands], the collections will<br />

continue to be profitable,” he says.<br />

Hunt describes haute couture as “absolutely<br />

essential to how fashion works” and believes<br />

it will continue to strive in this era of mass<br />

marketing.<br />

In an interview with <strong>The</strong> Taipei Times,<br />

President of the French Chambre Syndicale de<br />

la Haute Couture, Didier Grumbach, offers his<br />

perspective on the role of haute couture and its<br />

evolution in the fashion world today.<br />

“When haute couture was organised and<br />

structured the way it was in 1944, there was no<br />

ready-to-wear as we know it today. Everything<br />

was made for you. Creative ready-to-wear did not<br />

exist. Today Chanel and Dior, the most mythical<br />

couture houses, are also at the same time among<br />

the biggest exporters of ready-to-wear, and<br />

without their ready-to-wear lines, their couture<br />

lines could not exist,” he says.<br />

Grumbach says however, without the<br />

creativity and craftsmanship of haute couture,<br />

the ready-to-wear lines would not hold the same<br />

prestige. “<strong>The</strong> brands that we all know were<br />

founded by artists who expressed themselves on<br />

the body rather than on a canvas,” he says.<br />

Haute couture is continuously put on a<br />

pedestal in the world of fashion. It’s the rarefied<br />

realm inhabited by the very talented, extremely<br />

particular and truly dedicated. Believed to be<br />

the enhanced status of brand association, haute<br />

couture will continue to stand as an effective<br />

marketing medium in the twenty first century. To<br />

achieve success, designers will have to continue<br />

to reconcile their artistic vision by implementing<br />

a smart business plan to inspire consumers.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re’s no doubt women want the unattainable<br />

look they see on the haute couture runways, even<br />

if it comes from a spray of Chanel No.5 or by<br />

applying Dior lipstick. Haute couture, unrivalled<br />

and inaccessible, continues to fascinate and<br />

ultimately sell a dream. WX<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors 7


<strong>The</strong> Baccia<br />

Girl<br />

FUN and FREE the Baccia girl lives by no rules. She imaginatively<br />

styles the clothes of yesteryear and with a touch of MYSTERY and<br />

INTRIGUE, brings forth a new woman of power.<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Mike Hilburger<br />

STYLIST Matisse Forman


HAIR STYLIST Sam Harris<br />

MAKE-UP Kali Mataitoga<br />

MODELS Anna & Paige<br />

Garments stylist’s own


paula walden<br />

WORDS Lucy Slater<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Nat Lynn<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors<br />

Showcasing a collection at fashion<br />

week is something of a dream for<br />

many designers. For Paula Walden this<br />

dream became a reality, at only 26. Walden’s<br />

designs were recently showcased as part of<br />

George Wu’s and Riot swimwear’s collections<br />

at Brisbane’s 2009 Mercedes-Benz Fashion<br />

Festival.<br />

When asked about her rise in what’s<br />

normally a cut throat industry, she says,<br />

“Oh I don’t think of it like that, I mean,<br />

everything is just growing organically. I just<br />

try to keep on top of things”.<br />

Paula began her career straight out of high school when<br />

she was accepted as a jewellery apprentice. <strong>The</strong> three year<br />

apprenticeship initiated her appreciation for detail and keen<br />

interest in the reasoning behind a piece. “I’m very concept<br />

driven. I come up with words or imagery before I start to<br />

design. I can never go backwards either, some people will want<br />

me to recreate a past collection for them but I can’t, I hate that.<br />

I always want to make something new,” she says.<br />

Walden attributes her creativity to her carefree childhood<br />

in Papua New Guinea. “When I was growing up we would<br />

go to the beach... It was on one of those perfect beaches most<br />

people see on postcards and I could do what I liked. Lots<br />

of the things I did, looking back, were quite dangerous, like<br />

chasing wild pigs and going swimming with sea snakes... I<br />

don’t think a lot of people understand what it was like, but it<br />

was magical to me.”<br />

Walden gives Brisbane credit for embracing its young,<br />

creative, new artists. “<strong>The</strong>re is a different vibe in Brisbane,<br />

people want to support you not cut you down. I don’t think<br />

you find that in many other places,” she says.<br />

Walden’s latest endeavours, both in jewellery and fashion, look<br />

at shape and form. “I have been thinking about jewellery and<br />

clothing not only as an expression of the self but also as an<br />

extension of the self; those objects we choose but that literally<br />

project 3D into space, and then the forms around that; the<br />

silhouettes that are created and the negative space that is left, is<br />

endlessly fascinating for me,” she says.<br />

Walden says the most important thing to remember in the<br />

fashion industry is to follow your passion and not let yourself<br />

get discouraged by what others think. “You might fail whilst<br />

trying new things but if you produce what is already there<br />

then nothing new will ever happen. Change and creativity are<br />

interlocked; you can’t have one without the other,” she says.<br />

When asked, what the future holds for Paula Kyle Walden<br />

brand, she just shrugs, “anything is possible”.<br />

WX


<strong>The</strong> Woman<br />

Destroyed<br />

WORDS Rachel Howard<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Callie Marshall<br />

MODELS Tiernan & Sarah<br />

Feminism is often married with visions of women screeching down the<br />

streets, brassieres ablaze; which often leaves audiences, male and female,<br />

with shivers running rampant down their spines. Quick! Turn the page and<br />

rid yourself of this vulgarity. <strong>The</strong> tenuous relationship between fashion and<br />

feminism is explored with the influence of Simone De Beauvoir.<br />

Parisian feminist Simone De<br />

Beauvoir (1908 – 1986)<br />

played a vital role in the<br />

development of existentialism and<br />

feminism during the twentieth<br />

century. A number of her novels<br />

explored existentialist themes<br />

which “attempt to find meaning and<br />

purpose in an absurd world”, Austin<br />

Cline says in the biographical History<br />

of Existentialism.<br />

“If her functioning as a female<br />

is not enough to define a woman,<br />

if we decline also to explain her<br />

through ‘the eternal feminine’, and if<br />

nevertheless we admit, provisionally,<br />

that women do exist, then we must<br />

face the question: what is a woman?”<br />

Simone De Beauvoir says in <strong>The</strong><br />

Second Sex.<br />

<strong>The</strong> way a woman is perceived is<br />

often due to the manner in which she<br />

dresses. Despite charming pre-existing<br />

stereotypes, not all radical feminists<br />

have arm pit hair long enough to<br />

plait nor make a serious pastime out<br />

of verbal man bashing. Women have<br />

been defined by dress in both social<br />

and cultural situations throughout<br />

history. Dress is a form of expression;<br />

it conveys the ideals, beliefs and values<br />

of any woman, therefore making dress<br />

objective. A typically oppressive garment, the corset, accentuated the waist,<br />

which may have sexually liberated many women. <strong>The</strong>refore, women may not<br />

have been destroyed by the fashions of their eras and rather, embraced the<br />

styles that appealed to their feminist ideals.<br />

Honoured member of the Zonta Organisation: Advancing the Status<br />

of Women Worldwide and author of essay, Feminist Movements: <strong>The</strong> 1960s,<br />

Polita Cameron, is an advocate for feminist rights.<br />

“Fashion is a very obvious way to communicate and express ideas about<br />

14 FROCK. paper. scissors<br />

“If her functioning as a female<br />

is not enough to define a woman,<br />

if we decline also to explain her<br />

through ‘the eternal feminine’,<br />

and if nevertheless we admit,<br />

provisionally, that women do exist,<br />

then we must face the question:<br />

what is a woman?”<br />

Simone De Beauvoir <strong>The</strong> Second Sex<br />

how you see yourself in society, thus the<br />

connection would appear quite a strong one.<br />

Interestingly however, the one outfit could<br />

mean many different things depending on<br />

the woman wearing it and the interpreter.<br />

One outfit that to me would appear scant,<br />

showing too much flesh, looking showy<br />

and blatantly wanting attention from men<br />

could make the wearer feel empowered by<br />

showing off her sexual prowess and may see<br />

this as dominating and indeed feminist,”<br />

Cameron says.<br />

<strong>The</strong> way women have dressed in France<br />

throughout history contains notions of<br />

submissiveness, constraint, emancipation<br />

and equality. Different periods in French<br />

history represent feminism in a fashion<br />

context. Marie Antoinette represents a<br />

feminine aesthetic style that women have<br />

grappled with over centuries. Domesticity<br />

and femininity are illustrated through<br />

pastel shades, floral patterns and the<br />

accentuation of particular parts of the<br />

body through corsetry and the crinoline.<br />

Style exploded in Paris in the 1920s.<br />

Hair was cut short and women were<br />

liberated by smoking, drinking and<br />

obtaining employment. <strong>The</strong> 1940s saw<br />

a rise in ‘military’ style dress. Women<br />

were emancipated through pants and box<br />

style suiting and with the encouragement<br />

of sportswear and athleticism; the life of<br />

leisure was embraced.<br />

Today feminism is considered passé and outdated; opposed to the<br />

cultural cringe, it resembles something of a ‘social cringe’. Feminism has a<br />

distinct stigma that possesses a destructive relationship, not unlike that of<br />

incandescent pink thong meets kitten heel. Considering how expressive dress<br />

can be, it’s interesting some believe they are exempt from style and feminism,<br />

when in actual fact, the simple act of being dressed displays, each woman’s<br />

values, beliefs and feminist ideals.<br />

WX


FROCK. paper. scissors 15


BACKSTAGE<br />

IMAGINE walking through big black doors<br />

to a different world. <strong>The</strong> fashion world.<br />

Imagine being backstage watching dozens of<br />

lanky girls with their slender limbs stretched over<br />

chairs, getting their hair and make-up done in<br />

exciting new ways.<br />

Imagine, after 10 minutes when the novelty<br />

has worn off, you’re stressed and frazzled.<br />

Truth be told, most of the models at a fashion<br />

show are rather plain without make-up and<br />

disappointingly less glamourous than they are in<br />

the fashion editorials in the top magazines.<br />

Backstage, at the fashion show, their prayingmantis<br />

bodies and pale, sunken faces look eerie<br />

when illuminated from the harsh light radiating<br />

from bulbs lining the mirrors. More than a dozen<br />

top stylists and makeup artists work furiously fast<br />

as the models saunter in, zoning out on an iPod<br />

or poking away at a Blackberry to pass the time.<br />

<strong>The</strong> models subsequently, after hours upon hours<br />

of being tortured, primped and prodded, morph<br />

into the beautiful creatures that walk the runway.<br />

Lining walls in the dressing rooms, stand many<br />

racks carrying the coveted spring collections.<br />

Dressers sit on the floor, wherever there’s room,<br />

taping the bottom of heels with contact paper.<br />

Drama erupts as someone points out there is<br />

only one shoe in one of the boxes that just arrived<br />

from the downtown department store. <strong>The</strong>re’s a<br />

commotion of chatter before two assistants are<br />

sent off to get another shoe and swiftly return,<br />

hailing the missing platform heel.<br />

16 FROCK. paper. scissors<br />

<strong>The</strong> energy backstage gradually escalates as<br />

the runway show time edges closer. It’s supercrowded<br />

all of a sudden. <strong>The</strong>re are models,<br />

hairstylists and reporters packed together like<br />

a department store at Christmas. It’s a frantic<br />

race to get all the models in their garments and<br />

then ... drum roll please ... the designers arrive.<br />

Cameras follow the debonair designer’s every<br />

move backstage.<br />

“ Truth be told, most of<br />

the models at a fashion<br />

show are rather plain<br />

without make-up and<br />

disappointingly less<br />

glamourous...<br />

”<br />

<strong>The</strong> following day of the fashion<br />

festival begins with more prepping of shoes,<br />

steaming of garments and putting outfits together.<br />

<strong>The</strong> buzz from the catwalk show the night before<br />

was predominantly about one model, who was<br />

walking in her first-ever catwalk show. Apparently<br />

she’d fallen over on the runway and was fired<br />

immediately by the show’s director. Ouch! <strong>The</strong>re<br />

are no second chances in the fashion biz.<br />

Backstage, at this show, models’ have blisters<br />

the size of Uluru. Dressers cuss at the tedious<br />

buttons on a black, cut-away dress. <strong>The</strong>y do this<br />

while slathering fake tan over models’ bruised<br />

legs. You wouldn’t think, not being able to do up<br />

Secrets<br />

WANT TO KNOW WHAT THE WORLD’S MOST GLAMOUROUS INDUSTRY IS LIKE ...<br />

BEHIND CLOSED DOORS?<br />

FROCK<br />

goes behind the scenes of a fashion show and<br />

talks to fashion innovators, whose WORK STANDS<br />

FOR INGENUITY, BEAUTY AND STYLE and who are sketching new<br />

fashion settings.<br />

WORDS Josephine Campbell<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Josephine Campbell & Ashlee Hill<br />

buttons would seem reason enough to bring on a<br />

heart attack but yes, it can. Another dresser works<br />

up a sweat while attempting to zip a model into a<br />

child-sized corset. After what seemed like half an<br />

hour of flesh pinching, she was eventually zipped<br />

up and tucked-in to the midriff corset. But being<br />

20 and fitting into a garment that would snugly fit<br />

a six-year-old is hard work.<br />

“I’m soooo hungry” can be heard from a<br />

model who apparently has only eaten a handful<br />

of almonds in the past three weeks. It was then<br />

the realisation came across. Not once was there<br />

a morsel of food to be seen. But honestly, we<br />

can’t feel too bad for her. We’d be pretty happy<br />

starving too if we were raking in mad cash for a<br />

few minutes on the runway.<br />

Few words are as ubiquitous in the<br />

contemporary mass media as glamour. When<br />

we think of glamour we imagine the people who<br />

live it, the clothes that scream it and the make-up<br />

that makes it. But as you can see, despite the<br />

drama that goes on backstage and its seemingly<br />

unglamorous duties, the dazzling illusion<br />

compensates for all the hard work.<br />

As the fashion industry comes together to<br />

view and celebrate the newest trends for spring,<br />

it becomes apparent what seems trivial backstage<br />

is part of a bigger design that is endeavouring to<br />

bring more fashion glamour to us all.<br />

WX


ISABELLE FALCONER<br />

What do you do?<br />

i am a full-time model and a part-time artist.<br />

What’s the best thing about your job?<br />

<strong>The</strong> travel and the people you meet ... oh and getting<br />

to see the latest collections!<br />

What do people say you look like?<br />

A baby deer! ... Bambi.<br />

What did you used to draw as a child?<br />

A butterfly and birds in gardens.<br />

What did you want to change your name to?<br />

Raphaela.<br />

If you weren’t modelling where would you like to be?<br />

A full time artist with a few exhibitions under my<br />

belt and some paintings sold.<br />

What are you wearing?<br />

Marc by Marc Jacobs top, Zimmermann skirt, Sachi<br />

boot, Fendi necklace and Chronicles of Never bracelet,<br />

YSL bag.<br />

Hidden talents?<br />

I can do the Smeagol voice from Lord of the Rings.<br />

What’s next?<br />

A holiday to Nevereverland...<br />

Rock, paper or scissors?<br />

<strong>Paper</strong>.<br />

AMANDA CALLAN<br />

What do you do?<br />

Modelling, studying naturopathy, plus<br />

many other things such as.......... watching<br />

another model get her blue nails<br />

removed.<br />

What’s the best thing about your job?<br />

Filling out questionnaires and foot aids<br />

(for blisters).<br />

What do people say you look like?<br />

Claudia Schiffer, Lady Gaga, Aretha<br />

Franklin.<br />

What did you want to change your name to?<br />

Cordelia.<br />

If you weren’t modelling where would you like to be?<br />

At home watering the worms in the<br />

wormy farm, in the sun anywhere<br />

outside.<br />

What are you wearing?<br />

Someone else's clothes (but mine now),<br />

a size 14 blue 'discovery' jacket with<br />

shield buttons, a black velvet skirt and<br />

an old black top with flowers on it.<br />

Total price: $24 haha. So fancy.<br />

What’s next?<br />

My underground GoMa to China<br />

expedition via Bunnings (haven't<br />

got a head torch).<br />

Rock, paper or scissors?<br />

Rock!<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors 17


COME<br />

DIVE<br />

WITH<br />

ME<br />

WORDS Sara Hankiewicz<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Clare Duffy<br />

STYLIST Mary McHugh<br />

IT’S Thomas’ buck’s night; he and a van<br />

full of his friends are seeking out the dark<br />

corners of the city. <strong>The</strong>y look over their<br />

shoulders to ensure no one is watching and sneak<br />

in the back entrance.<br />

Tonight’s mission doesn’t lead the boys in<br />

search of babes and booze. Instead, they’re<br />

scouting a selection of delicacies for tomorrow’s<br />

wedding.<br />

Thomas and Anna, his fiancé, are a wedding<br />

planner’s nightmare. After exchanging vows<br />

barefoot in the local community garden, guests<br />

will be offered a selection of pizza, doughnuts,<br />

salad, fruit and nuts – all fresh from the<br />

commercial bin.<br />

For a ‘freegan’, this is a way of life. Freeganism<br />

is an anti-consumerism lifestyle. Shopping<br />

18 FROCK. paper. scissors<br />

in supermarket bins instead of supermarkets,<br />

‘dumpster diving’ is one of the latest trends<br />

attracting people who seek a sustainable lifestyle.<br />

“When people choose a lifestyle, whether it’s<br />

fashion or dumpster diving, I would like them to<br />

step out of the image it’s associated with and see<br />

the responsibility that they have,” Thomas says.<br />

Australians throw out three million tonnes of<br />

food every year, with a wastage value of more<br />

than five billion dollars. With figures like these,<br />

it isn’t surprising Australians are embracing this<br />

waste conscious lifestyle.<br />

At Brisbane’s Griffith University, students of<br />

the Food Politics subject study the global food<br />

system; investigating starving nations and the<br />

organisation of local supermarkets, with the<br />

added bonus of a dumpster diving tour.<br />

Recycled garments by<br />

QUT Second Year<br />

fashion students<br />

“It really is a transformative experience, I see<br />

my city in a different way,” one student says in<br />

a recent 4ZZZ radio interview. “I thought this<br />

would be something like a protest thing, how so<br />

much food is being thrown away, but it [dumpster<br />

diving] is actually a subculture I didn’t know<br />

about.”<br />

While dumpster diving is not illegal, dumpsters<br />

are often located on private property where<br />

trespassing is not allowed. It’s the pushing of<br />

boundaries which has fostered this controversy.<br />

“For me, it’s just another form of recycling.<br />

Responding to the fact that there is so much<br />

food waste, dumpster diving is a necessity,”<br />

Thomas says.<br />

WX


1. DRESS FOR THE<br />

OCCASION<br />

Full body coverage<br />

is recommended to<br />

avoid contact with<br />

unidentified matter.<br />

Something loose fitting,<br />

with lots of give allows<br />

a greater range of<br />

movement for deeper<br />

dive potential.<br />

2. KIT OUT<br />

Know what you’re<br />

diving for and pack<br />

accordingly. You don’t<br />

want to be caught out<br />

having retrieved three<br />

cartons of mangoes with<br />

nothing but a bicycle to<br />

get you home.<br />

3. MAN UP<br />

It’s going to stink in<br />

there, so if you’re new to<br />

dumpster diving maybe<br />

opt for a rubbish bin and<br />

work your way up the<br />

ladder.<br />

4. CLEAN UP<br />

After your rummage, be<br />

sure to put everything<br />

back in the dumpster<br />

and do a general clean<br />

up of the area. You’ve<br />

just scored a free meal;<br />

it’s the least you can do.<br />

5. THINK OUTSIDE<br />

THE BOX<br />

Don’t just stick to<br />

supermarket dumpsters.<br />

Suss out your<br />

neighbours, it will tell<br />

you a lot about what’s in<br />

their bin.<br />

how-to<br />

dumpster dive:<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors 19


the beauty curse<br />

WORDS Eliarne Iezzi<br />

ILLUSTRATION Xenia Mazarakis<br />

SONG LYRICS Bon Iver - Skinny Love<br />

YOU may be the most beautiful<br />

woman in the world, but you’re<br />

not getting any younger. <strong>The</strong>re<br />

will always be anti-wrinkle cream to<br />

spend your money on. You may have<br />

gorgeous naturally blonde locks, but when<br />

‘brunette’ is in – there will always be hair<br />

dye to spend your money on. You’re thin<br />

enough to fit in size six jeans, but you<br />

could always buy breast implants to fill out<br />

your top.<br />

This is the beauty curse.<br />

Brainwashed by a tsunami of images of<br />

‘flawless perfection’ in the media – many<br />

people blindly pursue this unattainable<br />

goal. By its very nature, the industry wants<br />

you to be dissatisfied with yourself. If you<br />

were simply happy with your image – how<br />

would they make money off you?<br />

Renowned Sydney nutritionist, Arlene<br />

Normand, says too much importance is<br />

placed on the idea of beauty. With 70 per<br />

cent of her clients struggling with serious<br />

body issues, Normand feels women put<br />

too much pressure on themselves to look<br />

a certain way. It’s a result of what they<br />

are led to believe is ‘normal’. From her<br />

experience, cosmetic procedures provide<br />

a short-term self-esteem boost, “but<br />

often lead to an obsession with cosmetic<br />

surgery”.<br />

Even cosmetic surgeon and founder<br />

and director of COZmedics, the Australian<br />

medical group, Dr Alison Jamieson says,<br />

“You only need to open the Sunday<br />

paper to be bombarded by choices of<br />

venues and people using technology and<br />

creating extraordinary claims. <strong>The</strong>re is a<br />

huge amount of marketing hype and sales<br />

pressure to encourage all to purchase the<br />

latest expensive device”.<br />

Addiction to beauty can and does<br />

20 FROCK. paper. scissors<br />

cause serious social problems in today’s<br />

society, where technology and knowledge<br />

is intensifying. In Obsession with Youth<br />

Explored, Denise Scott asks, “When did<br />

this obsession reach and addict the general<br />

population?... This is definitely a modern<br />

day phenomena perpetuated by the media.<br />

<strong>The</strong> media tells us we should want to stay<br />

young. <strong>The</strong> manufacturers provide all<br />

manner of ‘stay young’ products and the<br />

retailers avidly promote their ‘stay young’<br />

merchandise”.<br />

To understand beauty’s true cost,<br />

you only have to examine the industry<br />

where beautiful people are traded – the<br />

modelling industry. Being an international<br />

model of three years with agencies in<br />

Europe and Australia, Emaonn Katter, has<br />

seen the industry at its worst.<br />

“Some models, not all, go to extreme<br />

lengths to achieve a certain look. <strong>The</strong><br />

problem is the current aesthetic in the<br />

industry is for very thin shapeless models.<br />

This is easily achieved by 16 year-olds but<br />

anyone over that age needs to alter their<br />

natural body shape by depriving it of food.<br />

Simple as that,” he says.<br />

He cites, first hand, Spanish Fashion<br />

Week, one of the only fashion weeks in the<br />

world where models must prove to be in<br />

a healthy weight range, as a key example.<br />

If models fall below their body mass<br />

index (BMI), which according to Katter<br />

is lowered to accommodate more models,<br />

they are removed from the shows.<br />

“In order for models to meet the BMI<br />

minimum they drink copious amounts of<br />

water just before they are weighed. If they<br />

don’t make it initially, they are given one<br />

hour before a final weigh in. If they failed<br />

the first attempt, the model will normally<br />

go away and bloat themselves with even<br />

more water and attempt to hide jewellery<br />

in their underwear to add weight,” Katter<br />

says.<br />

Despite apparent advantages, the<br />

physically ‘blessed’ have disadvantages<br />

as well. Having completed a degree in<br />

law and business at the University of<br />

Queensland and currently studying<br />

history and art at the Cambridge<br />

University in the UK, Katter feels he isn’t<br />

taken seriously. “<strong>The</strong>re are stereotypes that<br />

are associated with being a model. Not a<br />

day goes by where a line from Zoolander is<br />

not quoted to me,” he says.<br />

Is it possible to reverse the curse?<br />

In a small step towards a healthier<br />

societal body image, Australian model,<br />

Sarah Murdoch, just appeared on the<br />

front cover of the Australian Women’s<br />

Weekly in a completely non-airbrushed<br />

photo; freckles, wrinkles and all. Does<br />

this make her less ‘perfect’? Or rather<br />

more beautiful for the fact she embraces<br />

characteristics which the industry has<br />

deemed undesirable? She is also part of<br />

the body image taskforce advising the<br />

Australian Government on a proposed<br />

code of conduct for the beauty industry.<br />

Hopefully ‘plastic fantastic’ is on the way<br />

out, and ‘unique fantastique’ takes over.<br />

So, before dwelling on your next<br />

flaw or insecurity, consider the words<br />

of renowned British naturalist Charles<br />

Darwin, “If everyone were cast in the same<br />

mould, there would be no such thing as<br />

beauty”. WX


<strong>The</strong><br />

Hunted<br />

becomes the<br />

Hunter<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Felicity Cooney<br />

STYLIST Lucy Slater<br />

DESIGNER Marnie Perkins


DESIGNER Priya Cox


DESIGNER Catherine Maddin DESIGNER Jeremy Gillis


DESIGNERS Lauren Clarke, Jeremy Gillis


DESIGNERS Heidi Davidson<br />

Priya Cox


DESIGNER Aimee Jayne Kahl<br />

Assistant Stylist Brett Bevege<br />

Assistant Photographer Peter Cooney<br />

Hair & Make-Up Isabelle Slater<br />

Models Kate & Samuel


THE<br />

FINAL<br />

CUT<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Malin Viktoria<br />

STYLIST Clare Duffy<br />

DESIGNER Alice Leahey


DESIGNER Kasey Brooker DESIGNER Kristen Siemon


DESIGNER Carla Parr<br />

DESIGNER Cassandra Taylor


DESIGNER Aleema Ash<br />

DESIGNER Erica Stagg


DESIGNER Robyn Taggart<br />

Assistant Stylist Mary McHugh<br />

Models Luen & Marianne<br />

Hair & Make-Up Jessica Cameron & Izaq Olomi<br />

Shoes Models Own<br />

DESIGNER Jess Laird


And her underwear... is from Target<br />

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY Jiayi Ying<br />

Here comes a nouveau movement of ‘mix and match’. It’s the trend of<br />

mixing the costly with the low-cost. As the financial crisis lingers,<br />

global consumers are upgrading the art of doting luxury with an<br />

economical conscience. <strong>The</strong> desire-driven pursuit of luxury and exclusivity<br />

thrives.<br />

Luxury brands have become a set of symbols denoting modern<br />

elitism. From Armani coats to Cartier watches, luxury products are worn by<br />

consumers to define their identity and social position. Paris-based fashion<br />

author, Dana Thomas, identifies the contemporary luxury goods industry as<br />

being fashioned around the ‘‘profit-driven, yet noble sounding concept of<br />

making luxury accessible’’. From Hermès bags to Chanel lipstick, the<br />

conglomeration of luxe business has fueled the spread of luxury.<br />

“Global consumers are infatuated by the contagious addiction. Marketing<br />

directors are striving to make luxury available to anyone, anywhere, and at<br />

every price point,” Thomas says.<br />

Depending on the individual’s budget and yearning impulse, the luxury<br />

dream is now an achievable reality.<br />

<strong>The</strong> era of designers being integral to their brands has passed. Ex-creative<br />

director of Gucci, Tom Ford, has always been aware that he was not an artist,<br />

because he was creating something to be marketed, sold and used. Fashion<br />

Her coat is Burberry.<br />

Her bag is Chanel.<br />

Her watch is Dior.<br />

Her coat is Burberry. Her bag is Chanel.<br />

Her watch is Dior.<br />

and luxury is all about business in today’s market. Luxury brands’ expansion<br />

into the “middle market was something to be addressed”, Ford says. “Had we<br />

not done it, someone else would have.” Brands’ pursuit of greater size and<br />

greater profits has cultivated a mushrooming phenomenon of the accessible<br />

modern luxury culture.<br />

Modern luxury has become a cult, with devotees from entrepreneurial<br />

elites, to cash-strapped students. For the true luxe affluent, teaming genuine<br />

items with a fake is merely an entertaining game of having some ‘naughty’<br />

fun. For the not so rich, it’s about creating the statement appearance with<br />

cheap finds and an investment luxury staple. Take for example the ‘it’ bag<br />

phenomena of 2000, which saw fashion followers reaching for their piece of<br />

high-end in Fendi and Balenciaga.<br />

Combining mass-market items with luxury pieces is becoming a fashion<br />

in itself. A New Luxe Syndrome of combining the cheap with the expensive<br />

is paralleling the growing consumer society. Many now favor caviar with<br />

popcorn as a fashionable articulation of tasteful individuality. Whichever the<br />

case, the worth of luxury is a dimension relative to personal values,<br />

preferences and finances.<br />

So, what price tag will you put on your Louis Vuitton bag? WX<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors 33


Into the Night<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Maximilian Tynan<br />

STYLIST Austin Moro<br />

Bodysuit by Camilla and Marc, Pants by Ksubi, Cape by<br />

Konstantina Mittas, Neckpiece and ring by Paula Kyle Walden


In the country the darkness of night is friendly and familiar, but<br />

in a city, with its blaze of lights,<br />

it is unnatural, hostile and menacing.<br />

It is like a monstrous vulture that hovers, biding its time.<br />

- Somerset Maugham


Jacket by Konstantina Mittas, Bodysuit by Camilla and Marc, Jeans by Ksubi, Rings by Paula Kyle Walden


Dress by Emma Rea, Knit Top by Stolen Girlfriends Club


Dress by Konstantina Mittas, Jewellery by Paula Kyle Walden<br />

Assistant Stylist Natalia Vidovic<br />

Fashion Assistants Brett Bevege, Frida Horbino<br />

Hair & Make-Up Sara Donaldson<br />

Model Rosie<br />

Stockist Bessie Head


f<br />

Insiders Only<br />

WORDS Bridget Barnett<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Bridget Barnett & Felicity Cooney<br />

Wholesale hotspot 1: B & C<br />

Centre For the fashion savvy girl<br />

who wants a real bargain.<br />

B&C Centre is a fashion wholesaler’s dream.<br />

Set in the industrial area of Lai Chi Kok, the<br />

shopping haven extends along a single winding<br />

corridor stretching 500 metres. <strong>The</strong> clothes and<br />

accessories here are usually without a brand label,<br />

and come in sizes ranging from Australian size 6<br />

to 14. A wholesale centre for retail stores, clothes<br />

here are usually a year ahead of trends. French<br />

boutique owner and editor of Hong Kong fashion<br />

magazine Prestiage, Maire Lebailly, stumbled<br />

across B&C Centre five years ago.<br />

“Although some locals are aware that B&C Centre<br />

exists, what they don’t know is that the store<br />

owners are usually happy to sell to individual<br />

customers at wholesale prices. It’s great, I can<br />

pick up accessories to send back to the store in<br />

France and find a few things to add to my personal<br />

wardrobe too,” she says. <strong>The</strong> downside? <strong>The</strong> busy<br />

shop owners, organising orders for stores globally,<br />

don’t have time to give you quality customer<br />

service. “Try not to get in their face too much,<br />

they‘re happy to let you browse, just don’t hassle<br />

them. <strong>The</strong>y are selling on huge scales so making a<br />

sale with an individual customer isn’t a priority of<br />

theirs,” Lebailly says.<br />

Best Buy: Black buckled motorcycle<br />

boots – approximately AUD$50 (Pleather, not<br />

leather. You will have to sacrifice the smell of your<br />

feet for fashion).<br />

Tip: You often are not allowed to try on clothes<br />

at B&C Centre – make sure you know what size<br />

and measurements you need and bring a tape<br />

measure.<br />

SECRET HONG KONG<br />

WHOLESALE SHOPPING<br />

HOTSPOTS REVEALED!<br />

Wholesale hotspot 2: Sham Shi<br />

Po DIY district For the girl who<br />

doesn’t mind doing it for herself.<br />

Sham Shi Po is a hub for everything you need if<br />

you want to create clothes or make jewellery.<br />

Between about 10 streets, there are dozens of<br />

fabric, bead, ribbon, stud, chain, feather, leather,<br />

zip and hook stores. You need to know exactly<br />

what you are looking for, down to the thread<br />

count. <strong>The</strong> biggest downside of this DIY district<br />

is when ordering in bulk, minimum orders are still<br />

going to be enormous, with the minimum number<br />

for beads being 1000. American instillation artist<br />

and statement jewellery designer, Emily Eldridge,<br />

uses this district to source interesting pieces for<br />

both her art and jewellery. “I usually try to just buy<br />

on the day because I don’t like the risk of ordering<br />

1000 beads without having orders for that many<br />

necklaces myself. However, sometimes you don’t<br />

have a choice… If there is something you really<br />

want and they’ve run out in store, ordering in bulk<br />

is your only option,” she says.<br />

Best Buys: Gold studs AUD$2 for pack of<br />

10.<br />

Tip: If you have photos or samples of fabric or<br />

jewellery that inspire you bring them along. Some<br />

shopkeepers have poor English and visuals can aid<br />

the process.<br />

HONG KONG is one of the<br />

world’s most renowned shopping<br />

destinations. Bargain hunters from<br />

around the globe flock to the<br />

island in search of a good buy.<br />

While most travellers are trolling<br />

the well-known tourist spots<br />

buying their standard souvenirs<br />

and I ‘heart’ HK T-Shirts, boutique<br />

owners and independent<br />

designers are scoring their buys<br />

at the real shopping gold mines.<br />

Now fashion insiders are letting<br />

you in on their secret shopping<br />

destinations.<br />

r<br />

Wholesale hotspot 3 : Lowu<br />

Commercial City For the hardcore<br />

shopper who wants it all – and is<br />

prepared to fight for it.<br />

This hotspot is located in Shenzen, China.<br />

Although not technically Hong Kong, it’s<br />

only a forty-five minute train ride away. Lowu<br />

Commercial City looks like a huge office block,<br />

but is actually a sprawling shopping centre with<br />

close to 1500 small shops. This district sells<br />

everything from dinosaur eggs (yes, they‘re real!)<br />

to high fashion designer handbags (no, they’re<br />

not real!). <strong>The</strong> best part – nothing has a price tag.<br />

Everything in the shopping centre can be bartered.<br />

Hong Kong based accessories buyer, Kate Barnett,<br />

says the store owners will often try and rip you off.<br />

“As a rule of thumb divide WX whatever number they<br />

throw at you by three and you should get roughly<br />

its real worth,” she says.<br />

Best Buy: Wolf head diamante studded<br />

cocktail ring, approximately AUD$20 each<br />

(depending on your bargaining skills).<br />

Tip: While it’s relatively safe, there have been<br />

some reports of robbery. Dress down and leave<br />

your jewellery at home. WX<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors 39


<strong>The</strong><br />

NEW<br />

Man<br />

WORDS Phoebe Parsons<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Jaclyn Fellows<br />

Ladies, there’s a new man in town…and<br />

just in time. At long last we may have finally<br />

seen the back-end of the metro<br />

movement. <strong>The</strong> scantily clad, size 26 jean<br />

wearing strain we’ve come to accept as<br />

our ‘male counterpart’ may soon be,<br />

officially dead.<br />

Women have grown tired of waiting for their white knight; the<br />

knight whose biggest fear isn’t ripping their taut jeans while<br />

getting on a horse. Women want ‘real’ men who scale tall<br />

buildings in a single bound.<br />

Coined in 1994 by British journalist, Mark Simpson, the term “Metrosexual”<br />

paved a way for the hetro-sexual man to openly adopt certain traits<br />

in regards to his shopping and grooming habits.<br />

According to Simpson a Metro-sexual is “a man with money and with an<br />

interest in fashion and beauty who lives within easy reach of a city”.<br />

Adopted and popularised by a host of big name celebrities, such as Justin<br />

Timberlake and David Beckham, the metro craze spread faster than swine<br />

flu.<br />

In next to no time, you were hard pressed finding a man whose hair<br />

contained less product than Pamela Anderson and whose jeans were worn<br />

high enough to conceal his Calvin Klein underwear. And just for the record,<br />

no, he wasn’t checking you out as you walked past; he was checking his<br />

behind in the reflection of the shop window…until he spotted the sale sign<br />

that is.<br />

No stranger to exfoliating face masks, tinted moisturiser and eyebrow<br />

shaping, it’s safe to say Beckham’s long standing crown as poster boy for<br />

metro-sexuality is not likely to be revoked (pity the same can’t be said for his<br />

appearance on trend pages).<br />

Senior booker for Chadwick modelling agency, Lyli Estalote, says the<br />

term ‘Metro-sexual’ came about due to a progression in society. “<strong>The</strong><br />

everyday man no longer has to settle down, have children, and take on traditional<br />

roles if you will. This allows them the luxury of exploring different<br />

ways of living, which culminated in the importance of looking and feeling<br />

good which is considered in high regard within our society,” she says.<br />

Just when we had lost all hope, our white knight took off his skinny jeans.<br />

Similarly to Beckham’s hairstyles, masculine identity has undergone many<br />

transformations in the last few decades, making it hard to keep up with the<br />

current batch.<br />

From the exuberated elegance of the Dandy to the subtle<br />

sophistication of the SNAG (sensitive new age guy), to the blatant boldness<br />

of the Metro-sexual, the latest buzzword illuminating masculine identity is<br />

the Neo-sexual.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Neo may just be the perfect man. Attaining more masculine qualities<br />

than his Metro counterpart, he’s still sensitive to his partner’s needs and has<br />

been likened to ‘James Bond with a sense of humour’.<br />

Estalote noticed a shift in the type of male models cast globally in this<br />

year’s fashion weeks. “<strong>The</strong> choice of boys was decidedly more manly than<br />

last year. Fashion week parades globally like to change the types of models<br />

they use because that is fashion for you. One minute the boy look is all over<br />

the catwalk and editorials, the next year it’s the opposite, the following year<br />

they mix it, then the year after that they go back to the boy look,” she says.<br />

“It’s exactly like you see in fashion. Most looks and trends come full<br />

circle and at some point always get repeated, but with a relevant more<br />

contemporary shift.”<br />

Maurie Powell, long standing staff member of men’s retailer, Harry<br />

Henry, says he noticed a shift in his customers’ desire for a more classic<br />

and masculine style. “Namely the colour pink has lessened noticeably as a<br />

fashion statement. Blue for boys is an old adage and is very popular again,”<br />

he says.<br />

Powell, who has over 45 years experience in men’s fashion says men in<br />

the public eye who have always epitomised masculinity influenced the shift.<br />

“<strong>The</strong>re has always been an elder statesman who always looks classic, namely<br />

George Clooney, the epitome of looking good and feeling comfortable in<br />

what he wears. <strong>The</strong> younger males who most take our eyes are Daniel Craig,<br />

Clive Owen and Michael Buble, to name a few. <strong>The</strong>se stylish masculine<br />

dressers will have a great influence on this new generation,” he says.<br />

Now that the Neo-Sexual has arrived; without the fear of helmet hair and<br />

with more stretch to his stride, it may not be too late for our white knight to<br />

catch us. WX<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors 40


Pants by Filippa K, Shirt by Dr Denim,<br />

Shoes and Hat Models Own.<br />

Brave<br />

the Storm<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Natalia Vidovic<br />

STYLIST Austin Moro


Clouds come floating into life, no longer to carry rain or<br />

usher storm, but to add colour to my sunset sky


Jeans by Friedrich Gray, Shoes<br />

Model’s Own<br />

Opposite: Long Sleeve Button Up by<br />

Fernando Frisoni, Shorts by Saint Augustine<br />

Academy, Shoes and Hat Model’s Own<br />

Tshirt by Claude Maus, Shorts and Coat<br />

by Chronicles of Never, Shoes Model’s<br />

Own.


Fashion Assistants Brett Bevege, Frida Horbino, Model Beej, Stockist Dirtbox


truly<br />

madly<br />

hatly<br />

WORDS Holly Ryan<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Erin Hourigin<br />

MODELS Zoe & Ethan<br />

ILLUSTRATION Macushla Kilvington<br />

Since the 1800s the Boater style sun hat has<br />

made a mark for itself. Traditionally associated<br />

with sailing and the seaside, it now represents<br />

a functional work of art capable of erasing the<br />

segregation of men and women as equals. <strong>The</strong> Boater<br />

hat is also popularly known as a Sailor, Sennit, or<br />

Skimmer. It is a stiff brimmed hat, easily distinguished<br />

by its flat top crown. Not to be worn carelessly, the<br />

Boater is required to be worn with exquisite costume.<br />

Transported to a modern day setting, the Boater is a<br />

memento of taste and elegance and a celebration of the<br />

past in both style and practice, at a time when D.I.Y is<br />

on the rise. Since it’s now summer, it seems fitting that<br />

a likely addition to anybody’s wardrobe would be a<br />

brand new hat! So how about celebrating this summer<br />

in style and with the satisfaction of knowing you<br />

created your very own sun hat?<br />

WX<br />

Head straight to<br />

www.frockpaperscissors.com<br />

for the pattern for a classic Boater style sun hat…<br />

Think bikes with baskets, long summer days<br />

flying kites and ice creams at the beach…<br />

D.I.Y has never looked so good!<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors 45


INK paint love<br />

WORDS Rhianna Bull<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Fernata Photography<br />

BODY Art, like the culture of drag in<br />

Australia, is seen as an outrageous,<br />

revolutionary and rebellious form of<br />

artistic expression. To wear nothing more than<br />

jeans, flower petal nipple-covers and a top made<br />

out of body paint requires a person to throw their<br />

inhibitions to the wind.<br />

But is Australia ready for body art fashion to<br />

enter the public domain?<br />

Director for Rainbow Creations Body Art and<br />

founder of the Australian Body Art Carnival, Ria<br />

Clauss, says lack of forward thinking is the primary<br />

reason for Australia’s prolonged development in<br />

body art.<br />

“When I first started body painting, people<br />

thought I was painting cars, piercing people or a<br />

tattooist. It’s taken society a long time to realise;<br />

to educate them that body art is a serious practice<br />

and should be taken on board as a new artistic<br />

medium,” Clauss says. She describes the creative<br />

effect it has on the wearer: “It’s like when you paint<br />

a tiger on the face of a child they go around and<br />

roar all day”.<br />

Originally from the Sunshine Coast, Clauss’<br />

obsession grew from her travels in the 1970s<br />

throughout Africa and India. It was on home<br />

soil however, that she became infatuated with<br />

46 FROCK. paper. scissors<br />

Aboriginal body painting culture. <strong>The</strong>se intricate<br />

designs of paint were encrusted with tales of tribal<br />

hierarchy, children, wars and marriage to create a<br />

unique identity.<br />

“Our current translation of that is ‘emos’ and<br />

‘goths’. This is a really good start because it means<br />

that we are changing…Our creative expression is<br />

taking over and soon we’ll all be going out face<br />

painted,” she says.<br />

On the Gold Coast, Isabelle Vesey went from<br />

being a struggling artist to being the professional<br />

make-up and body artist at Dracula’s cabaret<br />

restaurant. She paints and applies special effects to<br />

herself, actors and models featuring in the shows.<br />

“Wearing make-up and applying a costume<br />

allows me freedom; I can do and say things my<br />

everyday self wouldn’t dare do…It’s the extended<br />

version of your own personality, the wilder more<br />

daring side…Management loves it when we dye<br />

our hair bright colours, get a new make-up idea<br />

or ink on a new tattoo. And we’re encouraged to<br />

do so…Very few things are taboo and that’s what<br />

makes it so special,” she says.<br />

As a chunk of pink hair escapes her black<br />

wig, Vesey admits there’s still a strong social<br />

stigma towards tattooing, piercing and body art<br />

modification despite its popularity among youth<br />

of the twenty-first century. “Turning the body into<br />

a canvas is so exciting because it is art that is always<br />

with you, not hanging on a wall somewhere,” Vesey<br />

says.<br />

Author of <strong>The</strong> Fashioned Body, Joanne<br />

Entwistle, analyses the role fashion plays in the<br />

formation of modern identity through the body,<br />

gender and sexuality. She says people of nonconformity,<br />

who practice in alternate body fashion<br />

or who go without clothing, defy the conventions<br />

of their culture. She notes these minority groups<br />

are often subversive of the basic social codes which<br />

dictate cultural values and therefore risk exclusion,<br />

scorn and ridicule by mainstream society.<br />

It seems the assortment of gawks, mutters and<br />

rude stares will continue to follow those brave<br />

enough to enter the public realm in little more than<br />

paint. You don’t have to be as extreme as risking<br />

arrest for indecent exposure, but don’t let body art<br />

be refined to the pages of history books.<br />

Communicate your creativity with your body<br />

as the canvas. Tomorrow, paint on a necklace, a<br />

new tattoo or even just some orange lipstick, and<br />

see what happens. You never know, you might<br />

inspire others to do the same.<br />

WX


FROCK. paper. scissors


Test-tube Trinkets<br />

WORDS Madelaine Brown<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Yohan Budiman<br />

<strong>The</strong> jewellery you see on this page is made of human skin cells.<br />

Pressures from an environmentally conscious public have forced<br />

designers and manufactures to evolve their methods for sourcing<br />

product. Now there is a new form of renewable material rocking the<br />

artistic world, and it all comes down to science. It’s called ‘Bio-art’. <strong>The</strong><br />

concept stems from a basic sustainability theory, creating a product using<br />

pre-existing material.<br />

Brisbane fashion designer, Rannulu De Zoysa, is collaborating with a<br />

scientist to make jewellery pieces through bio-art techniques. <strong>The</strong> head<br />

piece pictured is made from skin cells grown in a laboratory environment<br />

using tissue culturing.<br />

De Zoysa’s interest in a more sustainable method for fashion design grew<br />

from what he saw during visits to international garment factories while<br />

working as part of a design team in California. “<strong>The</strong>re were tons of smelly,<br />

decaying textiles discarded in landfill sites that were going to stay there for<br />

years to come. It was basically careless consumer and manufacturer consumption,”<br />

he says.<br />

After the initial research and experimental trials, the process takes<br />

approximately six days to develop the pieces. “We have been able to achieve<br />

different forms, and different textures such as smooth, glossy and corrugate,”<br />

48 FROCK. paper. scissors<br />

De Zoysa says. For example the headpiece shown has a velvety texture.<br />

“We swabbed some of my skin cells for the scientist to put it into a tube.<br />

We then gave it protein so that it grows. After a few days it’s about 8 by 4<br />

inches. We then stop feeding it and add some chemicals to ensure the cells<br />

are no longer alive. We add colour and mould it to the style we want.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> trend towards the collaboration between scientific process and artistic<br />

fashion is also a result of heightened creativity and artists ‘pushing the<br />

boundaries’.<br />

“It encourages designers to approach their work with an unexpected<br />

creativity and experimentation to generate work that expresses their vision.<br />

Most importantly there are more possibilities to have profound concepts<br />

and original designs,” De Zoysa says.<br />

<strong>The</strong> SoFA gallery, a division of the Indiana University, has a longstanding<br />

exhibition exploring Bio-art pieces. Gallery director, Betsy Stirratt, is not<br />

surprised by the collaboration claiming both “share an affinity for<br />

experimentation and a desire to forge new frontiers in their fields”.<br />

It’s to be expected that the technology will continue to grow as will the<br />

designer’s imagination. So what is the future of the science-art paradigm?<br />

Bio Fashion? It could be the future of textiles.<br />

WX


No need to<br />

Fret<br />

WITH a nonchalance toward<br />

criticism, it comes as no surprise<br />

that Brisbane based band, <strong>The</strong><br />

Frets, have taken the music scene by<br />

storm.<br />

A long way from their garage days, <strong>The</strong><br />

Frets have had the opportunity to travel<br />

the world. <strong>The</strong>y’ve written with some of<br />

the most respected names in the industry,<br />

aje<br />

bassike<br />

claude maus<br />

cybele<br />

ellery<br />

emma rea<br />

fernando frisoni<br />

friedrich gray<br />

gail sorronda<br />

gary bigeni<br />

49 FROCK. paper. scissors<br />

WORDS Georgia Colclough<br />

For concert dates log onto http://www.myspace.com/conradsewellandmattcopley<br />

in preparation for the release of their<br />

debut album late 2009.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> Frets’ sound is all the little bits<br />

of music that we love, put together into a<br />

song,” lead singer Conrad says.<br />

Dubbed ‘smart pop’ the boys have<br />

used a combination of pop and rock<br />

elements to create records through their<br />

backgrounds in jazz or classical music.<br />

Sure, they’re “all about the music” but<br />

when it comes to a question of whether<br />

they’d prefer mainstream popularity<br />

over street cred; it’s simple according to<br />

Conrad – “<strong>The</strong> more our fans like our<br />

music and the more popular it is, the<br />

more we’ll like playing it. You make music<br />

to make other people happy”.<br />

shop 8, level one, broadway on the mall, queen street, brisbane, Q 4000 - +61 (7) 3221 0355 - www.bessiehead.com.au<br />

WX<br />

konstantina mittas<br />

lonely by lonely hearts<br />

meadowlark<br />

romance was born<br />

seventh wonderland<br />

superfine<br />

therese rawsthorne<br />

tina kallivas<br />

tristan blair<br />

william phillips


WORDS Ashleigh Elliott<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Brett Densley<br />

It would be nice to say Australia’s iconic<br />

fashion sense is celebrated as being that<br />

of Kit Willow or Sass and Bide designs;<br />

but unfortunately we’re more likely to<br />

be known for pluggers or thongs. When<br />

it comes time to showcase the National<br />

Costumes at the Miss Universe contest,<br />

Elizabeth Hayem - El Salvador<br />

When did you migrate to Australia?<br />

June 17, 1989.<br />

Why did your family move here?<br />

<strong>The</strong>re was a civil war at the time. My parents wanted to<br />

leave because of the danger it posed to our lives.<br />

How does your multi-cultural heritage influence<br />

your life now? Now that I’m making decisions<br />

about careers and potentially my own family, I find that I<br />

want to keep as many of our traditions as possible, while<br />

still integrating in Australian society.<br />

Explain your traditional form of dress?<br />

I’m wearing a traditional dress which comes in many<br />

different colours. It’s not an everyday item and is usually<br />

only worn for festivals, shows and theatre.<br />

Sesole Slade<br />

- Samoa<br />

When did you migrate to Australia?<br />

In 1991; I was four.<br />

Why did your family move here?<br />

My parents wanted a better lifestyle and to give us better<br />

opportunities.<br />

How does your multi-cultural heritage influence<br />

your life now?<br />

<strong>The</strong> Samoan lifestyle is very family orientated. It’s<br />

very much about respect for your elders and putting<br />

your family first. At special occasions, like birthdays,<br />

there is a traditional dance that all the family does.<br />

Explain your traditional form of dress?<br />

A traditional form of dress in Samoa is usually sarongs. My<br />

tattoo is a tribal Samoan tattoo. <strong>The</strong> patterns are clearly<br />

Samoan and represent my heritage.<br />

Des<br />

tin<br />

ation:<br />

BRIS<br />

BANE<br />

the traditional outfits adorning contestants<br />

clearly indicate their heritage. As a new<br />

country, it’s easy to see why Australia has a<br />

hard time finding a unique identity.<br />

FROCK looks into the stories of some<br />

of our new migrants and the ties they still<br />

have to their traditional dress. WX<br />

Amrita Patel - India<br />

When did you migrate to Australia?<br />

In 1994; I was nine.<br />

Why did your family move here?<br />

My Dad wanted to open a business and we heard good<br />

things about Australia.<br />

How does your multi-cultural heritage influence<br />

your life now?<br />

Food is a big part of our heritage that we keep alive.<br />

We don’t eat meat from cows, which can be considered<br />

strange in Australia. My mum tries to keep religion<br />

prominent in our lives and we visit the Temple in<br />

Graceville.<br />

Explain your traditional form of dress?<br />

I’m wearing an Indian Sari with a tikka (the dot we put<br />

in between our eyes). Unmarried women wear them as<br />

a form of decoration and married women wear a red one<br />

to signify their marriage.<br />

Lihn Nguyen<br />

- Vietnam<br />

When did your family migrate to Australia?<br />

My dad came to Australia about 27 years ago, and my mum<br />

and two sisters came over about 25 years ago.<br />

Why did your family move here?<br />

Both my parents lived through the war, and were exposed to<br />

poverty like many other families at the time. After the war,<br />

life to them became restricted and extremely controlled. My<br />

dad was an officer in the Imperial Navy and after the war was<br />

a POW (Prisoner of War). <strong>The</strong> loss of freedom was greater<br />

for him.<br />

How does your multi-cultural heritage influence<br />

your life now?<br />

I’ve definitely come to have a greater appreciation now than<br />

I did 10 years ago. I feel that Australian society has come to<br />

embrace differences in culture more, which makes it ok to be<br />

different.<br />

Explain your traditional form of dress?<br />

<strong>The</strong> traditional dress, ‘ao dai’, for the female, is a symbol of<br />

graciousness, elegance and beauty. Traditionally, the dress is<br />

something that can be worn for all occasions. Today however,<br />

perhaps due to the influences of globalisation, the ‘ao dai’ is<br />

more common on special occasions.<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors 50


Ole! Delicious Espana<br />

Food is a fuel, food is fulfilling, food is<br />

fabulous. From falafel to fettuccine, from<br />

fresh to fast, food is a fad. <strong>The</strong> latest trend<br />

allows for fine feasting and fearless fun, flamenco<br />

style.<br />

It’s sexy, sultry and just a little bit spicy.<br />

According to renowned Brisbane food critic, Jan<br />

Power, Spain is the new ‘IT’ place for fabulous<br />

and fashionable food. “Spanish food is the new<br />

fashion; it’s quite glamorous and it’s always been<br />

there but now people are discovering it’s really<br />

worth it,” Power says.<br />

“Spanish food is very popular in Brisbane<br />

and as we have a similar climate and similar<br />

personalities it works because we always need a<br />

change in fashion. “I’m a total fan of Spain, they<br />

do everything well; eating to them is a total social<br />

component and something to share.”<br />

As summer approaches and everyone dreams<br />

of squeezing into their teeny weenie bikini, the<br />

Mediterranean diet appears to be in sync with<br />

both the Queensland climate and its health<br />

conscious population. <strong>The</strong> ingredients used in<br />

Spanish cooking are fresh, natural and nourishing,<br />

with liberal use of herbs, oils and spices, delivering<br />

scintillating flavours.<br />

Brisbanites are jumping on the Mediterranean<br />

bandwagon with nine Spanish restaurants<br />

currently operating within a five kilometre radius<br />

of Brisbane’s CBD. Additionally through the<br />

popularity of television programmes such as,<br />

Masterchef Australia, people are eager to try new<br />

and exciting delicacies at places from fine dining<br />

eateries to backstreet cafes.<br />

Bistro C on Noosa’s Hasting Street, hosts a<br />

Latin night every Wednesday, decked out with<br />

Spanish inspired cocktails, Latin dancing and cool<br />

cuisine. <strong>The</strong> animated atmosphere makes for a<br />

magical night in Madrid.<br />

Bistro C waitress, Tania Martin, says she looks<br />

forward to Wednesday and the surprises the night<br />

may bring. “I’ve been working here for a year<br />

now and latin night is by far my favourite shift<br />

to work; it’s a crazy night with so much laughter<br />

and adventure. <strong>The</strong> atmosphere is amazing and<br />

everyone from staff to families to groups of friends<br />

gets involved in the food, dancing and sheer fun of<br />

it all,” she says.<br />

Language and latin dance schools are also<br />

seeing increased numbers of people seeking to<br />

learn Spanish and the sexy and seductive moves<br />

of the Tango and the Samba. Latin dance teacher,<br />

Anthea Tert, who’s been dancing for 33 years,<br />

believes the Spanish way of life is taking over as<br />

the international flavour in terms of music, culture,<br />

food and dance.<br />

“I teach private classes and there has been a<br />

huge growth in popularity in the last two years<br />

as there are more people wanting to learn just for<br />

fun. Spanish music is very rich, it makes you feel<br />

like dancing and it has a special way of reaching<br />

people internally,” she says.<br />

It seems Brisbane is also following (or maybe<br />

even started), the international trend of the<br />

popularity of Spanish cuisine. Recent results<br />

from the 2009 San Pellegrino’s Worlds Best 50<br />

restaurants, found restaurants in Spain currently<br />

hold four of the top 10 positions worldwide.<br />

Brisbane restaurants confirm the local and<br />

international following of this cultural cuisine.<br />

Owner of Pintxo Spanish Taperia Tapas<br />

Restaurant in Brunswick Street, Melissa Telecican,<br />

attributes the popularity of Spanish food to the<br />

assortment of taste sensations and unique social<br />

atmosphere. “People like having variety and trying<br />

lots of different things and as the food comes<br />

out gradually it makes it ideal for the individual<br />

with our tapas train, couples or larger social<br />

groups. “We have Spanish tourists drop by for an<br />

authentic Spanish meal, however, we mainly cater<br />

to Brisbane locals, particularly those who have<br />

travelled to Spain and are passionate about the<br />

food and culture. “I opened the restaurant after a<br />

trip to Spain, realising there were Spanish quarters<br />

in both<br />

Sydney and Melbourne yet there was a market<br />

c<br />

e<br />

d<br />

For all your international and domestic travel needs<br />

TRAVELWORLD SANDGATE<br />

Shop 2/7 Fourth Ave, Sandgate 4017<br />

PH: (07) 3869 0747<br />

Email: travel@travelworldsandgate.com<br />

Senoritas it’s time<br />

to step out this<br />

summer in your<br />

favourite pair of<br />

strappy sandals,<br />

ready to salsa,<br />

Spanish style.<br />

WORDS Olivia Noakes<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Macushla Kilvington<br />

for Spanish food in Brisbane that had yet to be<br />

discovered,” she says.<br />

A patron dining at Pintxo, Jason Quinell, said<br />

he would definitely be back. “It’s my first time<br />

trying Spanish food and I love it.”<br />

Spanish cuisine is sizzling hot right now. Why<br />

don’t you challenge yourself to venture out this<br />

summer, sangria in one hand, flamenco fan in the<br />

other and adopt a fearless fixation for the latest<br />

fashionable food!<br />

WX<br />

Friendly service, great knowledge<br />

and unbeatable prices.<br />

Affilliated with<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors 51


52 FROCK. paper. scissors<br />

w


what’s hot in Brisbane...<br />

1.<br />

WEST END MARKETS<br />

Davis Park, West End<br />

<strong>The</strong> West End markets are famous for their variety of fresh<br />

produce; unbeatable for quality and value. You’ll find an<br />

interesting array of stalls with beauty products and services on<br />

2.<br />

offer, including $9 ‘threading’ eyebrow shaping.<br />

LILY G BOUTIQUE<br />

172 Bennetts Road, Norman Park<br />

Lily G Boutique is an interior retail and design business. <strong>The</strong>ir<br />

stock is sourced from all over the world and is presented<br />

beautifully in store over two levels. Lily G is truly a lifestyle<br />

revolution unlike any other we’ve seen.<br />

3.<br />

COMING UP ROSES<br />

118 Bilyana Street, Balmoral<br />

Located in the beautiful green suburb of Balmoral, Coming Up<br />

Roses is a trendy little gift shop adjoined to a plant nursery few<br />

people know about. A must see!<br />

4.<br />

SECONDI<br />

2/85 Riding Road, Hawthorne<br />

Secondi is all about the love of vintage. With retro and vintage<br />

clothing now in such high demand, it won’t be long until the<br />

whole of Brisbane knows about this little gem. So hurry in and see<br />

what vintage bargains you can bag.<br />

5.<br />

6.<br />

7.<br />

8.<br />

9.<br />

LE CLASSIC<br />

420 Cavendish Road, Coorparoo<br />

Le Classic is one of Coorparoo’s hidden treasures. With<br />

internationally sourced labels and an inviting and relaxed<br />

atmosphere, you’re sure to find an outfit for any occasion.<br />

KYLIE RYAN<br />

7/377 Cavendish Road, Coorparoo<br />

Shoes, shoes, beautiful shoes! Kylie Ryan is a designer shoe<br />

retailer stocking labels including Rachel Gilbert, Nicola Finetti<br />

and Juli Grbac. <strong>The</strong> store also stocks jewellery from local designer<br />

Paula Hall and Kylie Ryan’s own bridal range, ‘Confetti’.<br />

CARO MIO<br />

598 Stanley Street, Woolloongabba<br />

Hidden in the nooks and crannies of a nineteenth century<br />

building is café Caro Mio. So sit back and ‘let them eat cake’.<br />

VERVE<br />

109 Edward Street, CBD<br />

Adjoined to independent art gallery Metro Arts, Verve offers an<br />

informal dinning experience; delectable modern Italian cuisine at<br />

ultra affordable prices.<br />

RETRO MODERN<br />

11 Logan Road, Woolloongabba<br />

It doesn’t matter if you’re in the market for a sofa, chess set or even<br />

a wooden bathtub, you’ll find it all at Retro Modern.<br />

10.<br />

BYBLOS<br />

7/13 Portside Wharf 39 Hercules Street, Hamilton<br />

Byblos is an award-winning restaurant offering a superb mix of<br />

Mediterranean cuisine. You can even opt for the $25 movie and<br />

dinner deal and see a flick at the Dendy cinema. Talk about an<br />

affordable night out!<br />

WX<br />

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY Claire Grimshaw & Sarah Spear<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors 53


Southside<br />

Story<br />

On the outskirts of the city<br />

lies a space with picturesque<br />

buildings laying claim to<br />

a street that momentarily<br />

sweeps you up and takes<br />

you back to an old world full<br />

of romance, class and style.<br />

WORDS Ambre Harford-Birkett<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY Claire Grimshaw & Sarah Spear<br />

Woolloongabba has long been known<br />

as a run-down backdrop for late night<br />

drunken brawls, but following eight<br />

months of construction and twelve months still<br />

looming, it is fast transforming from dilapidated to<br />

delightful.<br />

<strong>The</strong> main street, full of charm, with its high<br />

illuminated umbrella lights, tall trees and garden<br />

beds, takes you back to a time much like a scene from<br />

Nicholas Sparks’ <strong>The</strong> Notebook.<br />

<strong>The</strong>n there are the century old shop fronts which<br />

are now home to several charming stores such as<br />

Miss Mouse, Absolutely Fabulous and the Pearl Café,<br />

making Logan Road the perfect place for style and<br />

culture.<br />

Some say there’s no such thing as love at first sight,<br />

yet after visiting Miss Mouse your faith in the saying is<br />

restored.<br />

<strong>The</strong> store’s unique character hits you from the<br />

moment you’re inside, from the framed, hand-written<br />

short stories to the magical poem written by the<br />

owner’s young daughter scribbled across a mirror in<br />

bright red lipstick.<br />

Beautiful dresses from local designers are draped<br />

over antique chairs, while one-off jewellery pieces are<br />

laid across a large wooden table which sits between the<br />

raw brick walls, creating a treasure trove for style lovers.<br />

Stocking only garments that are “classic with a<br />

twist”, owner Dee Harris, loves that every piece can<br />

be worn in a different way. “I try to get pieces that will<br />

embellish and customize an outfit so everyone who<br />

walks out of the store can personalise it with their<br />

individual style,” Harris says.<br />

It was Woolloongabba’s historic buildings and the<br />

suburb’s own individual style which attracted Harris<br />

to leave her well-loved Paddington cafe, Lure, to open<br />

Miss Mouse in 2008.<br />

54 FROCK. paper. scissors<br />

Across the road,<br />

Absolutely Fabulous has<br />

walls stacked with quirky pieces, giving the store a well<br />

earned spot along the Logan Road stroll.<br />

Owners Mary and Peta recently closed their New<br />

Farm boutique, merging its belongings into the cleverly<br />

overstuffed Woolloongabba space for the same reasons<br />

as Harris.<br />

Everyone loves a laugh and it seems this is the<br />

place to let your inner giggle loose. Laughter is a central<br />

vision Mary has for the ever-expanding store. “We want<br />

people to have fun here,” she says.<br />

Upon exploring the store, both new and old pieces<br />

can be uncovered. Breath-taking antique furniture<br />

shares the floor with unconventional items, such<br />

as a high-heel shoe cake server, a necessity for all<br />

fashionistas turned domestic wannabes.<br />

“We will only stock a piece that really rocks our<br />

boat,” Peta says, explaining the collection of witty and<br />

well-designed items which makes Absolutely Fabulous<br />

one of a kind.<br />

Further down the street, is a coffee hot spot which<br />

has created quite a stir with its large loyal customer base<br />

that swears by the addictive caffeine experience.<br />

<strong>The</strong> man that brought us <strong>The</strong> Gun Shop Café in<br />

West End, Daniel Lewis, has transformed an antique<br />

terrace house into the stylish Pearl Café. This quiet<br />

café positioned between a shade of trees and shabby<br />

ceramic potted plants, lets you sit back to enjoy some<br />

afternoon people watching.<br />

<strong>The</strong> finer details are what gives this spot its quirky<br />

style; freshly baked cakes are placed on stands while<br />

the daily blackboard specials live in gilt picture frames,<br />

making it almost too charming for words.<br />

<strong>The</strong> modern lighting contrasts with the bentwood<br />

chairs and stripped back brick walls which create an<br />

experience usually found on the streets of Europe.<br />

<strong>The</strong> ultra-modern yet traditional interior sets the<br />

scene for the efficient and friendly service, coupled<br />

with simple food and rich, creamy coffee; even the<br />

most skilled baristas talk about for days.<br />

While Logan Road may be frustrating at times,<br />

with the maze of road works and gravel sticking to new<br />

summer thongs, Woolloongabba’s array of tall historical<br />

buildings and quirky characters is quickly putting the<br />

streets of Paddington and New Farm to shame.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re seems to be no better time to make the move<br />

to the Southside.<br />

WX


the lion the bitch<br />

and the wardrobe...<br />

WORDS Jade Dunwoody<br />

ILLUSTRATION Xenia Mazarakis<br />

Dress is often the difference between grace and social<br />

suicide. a solitary defining moment you’re standing in<br />

front of your wardrobe,over-confident and bold...<br />

YOUR shoulder angel is persuading you to reconsider, but your fortitude<br />

to rebel is reigning. Your outfit is the mirror image of your mood;<br />

ripped, torn, tragic rock. Lips are fire engine red and hair is teased to its<br />

element. You’re a cross between rock chick and hobo. But later that day,<br />

you run into a boss, a teacher or someone else of importance, and you’re<br />

repulsed by your choice of dress. Your mood has changed and it fuels your<br />

regret. Or perhaps you’re feeling confident and a little promiscuous, so you<br />

shorten your dress in the freezing, cold winter. A little inconvenient and<br />

problematic.<br />

When it comes to fashion, we’re often pushovers. It’s our mood that acts<br />

as a catalyst for the forever-agonising dilemma, what was I thinking?<br />

Expressive dressing - how you feel - is often reflective in what you wear.<br />

Whether Mother Nature kicks in, your day takes a 360 or you’re simply<br />

trapped in a faux pas, it’s your mood that’s the pillar. <strong>The</strong> lion, the bitch and<br />

the influence on your wardrobe. <strong>The</strong>re’s even a name for us. Mood dressers.<br />

We’re feeling youthful, we accessorise. We’re feeling down, we wear dark<br />

colours. <strong>The</strong> problem lies with later on and how you’ll feel then. What will<br />

you be thinking? You’re feeling bright and energetic one moment, so your<br />

outfit is bold and quirky. <strong>The</strong> next you’re having a fat day and wish you were<br />

wearing a potato sack.<br />

You’re feeling sophisticated before work, so you wear stockings and<br />

corporate heels. <strong>The</strong> next moment, you’re deflated and wish you’d worn<br />

ballet flats. You’re feeling elite. You’re wearing heels, a sequinned dress and<br />

are carrying an oversized clutch. <strong>The</strong> next moment you’re walking the streets<br />

in the middle of homeless central. You then feel ashamed of your choice.<br />

Mood dressers, whether you’re a lion, a bitch or even a princess,<br />

we all can relate to this. Our mood can influence colour, pattern, outfit<br />

combinations and style. But most of all, our mood directs what we do and<br />

how we feel, present and in the future.<br />

It’s as simple as feeling confident to wear white pants after Labour Day.<br />

<strong>The</strong> next thing you know, you’ve spilt lunch all over yourself.<br />

WX<br />

FROCK. paper. scissors 55


Capricorn<br />

Capricorns are business<br />

focused, dressing in classic<br />

and timeless outfits. Invest in<br />

a good fake tan to add a bit of<br />

colour.<br />

Horoscopes<br />

WORDS Amanda Curtis<br />

ILLUSTRATION Amy Cloumassis<br />

56 FROCK. paper. scissors<br />

Aquarius<br />

Aquarians can always be found in a<br />

thrift store scouting interesting pieces<br />

that don’t break the budget. Keep<br />

make-up simple and shift the focus<br />

with a statement headpiece.<br />

Virgo<br />

Minimalists by nature, Virgos wear<br />

comfortable and traditional styles. Don’t be<br />

afraid to ditch the conservative look and<br />

wear something daring that complements<br />

your hot bod!<br />

Scorpio<br />

Scorpios are masters of disguise so think<br />

bold statement jewellery with dark lips or<br />

long and seductive false lashes.<br />

earnings.<br />

Sagittarius<br />

Pisces<br />

Your trend adapts to your<br />

Aries<br />

You have an abundance of self<br />

assurance which gives you the<br />

confidence to parade the most daring<br />

of trends. Stay true to your fiery<br />

nature with a black and red ensemble<br />

complemented with dramatic, smokey<br />

eyes.<br />

Cancer<br />

Cancers are known to be as<br />

Sagittarians dress for comfort, rocking the<br />

oversized tee. Strong primary colours, a bit<br />

of bronzer and tribal style jewellery will go<br />

a long way.<br />

attached to their clothing as they<br />

are to their loved ones. Don’t be<br />

afraid to have a garage sale, and<br />

vamp up your image with the<br />

Gemini<br />

Geminis live to try everything once,but<br />

colours with classic pieces.<br />

Taurus<br />

In the current financial<br />

crisis, don’t be afraid<br />

to visit op shops and<br />

sacrifice that $200<br />

Hermès scarf for a<br />

vintage option, no one<br />

will think any less of<br />

surroundings and you feel you!<br />

most comfortable in free<br />

flowing clothes. Pisces should<br />

complement their relaxed style<br />

with earthy jewellery.<br />

don’t get too distracted that you let your<br />

mood dictate your style. Try to mix bold<br />

Leo<br />

Comfort comes last in Leo’s book. You<br />

wouldn’t be caught dead wearing less than<br />

the best. You love anything that draws<br />

attention, so stay true to bright colours like<br />

oranges and yellows.<br />

Libra<br />

Librans are known for their creative flair and innovative style. Keep<br />

your clothing simple and express your true self through your unique<br />

and timeless jewellery pieces.


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Muse<br />

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