señor tequila cantina - Epicurean Charlotte Food & Wine Magazine

Extra Virgin olive oil comes from virgin oil,
contains no more than eight percent acidity or free
fatty acid content and is judged to have a superior
taste. Extra virgin olive oil makes up less than 10
percent of oil in many of the producing countries.
Olive oil has for centuries been the most popular
cooking and food oil used in countries around the
Mediterranean. It may have taken the rest of us a
bit more time to catch on, but today, Americans
consume more olive oil than ever before. So back to
the question—when do you use which oil for what
purpose? Does it matter which one I use? Can I mix
and match them? Lest these questions slip through
our fingers like the finest EVOO (extra virgin olive
oil), let’s discuss the uses of the oil from an olive in
the kitchen.
If you put a dozen chefs in a kitchen and asked
the same question about when to use which olive oil,
you may get at least half a dozen different answers.
One point most will agree on is that the finest of
extra virgin olive oils are enjoyed mostly in salad
dressings and cold perpetrations, along with dipping
for bread. That’s not to say that you couldn’t cook
with it; you certainly can, as there are no rules. The
olive oil patrol will not come to your kitchen and fine
you for cooking with what many chefs on television
cook with, EVOO. The important point to remember
is that the more pure the oil, the lower the ‘smoke
point.’ The smoke point is commonly known as the
temperature at which the oil in the pan begins to
smoke.
For lightly sautéed foods, you can really use any
olive oil you wish. As long as you like the way the
oil tastes by itself, you should enjoy the cooked
result, provided you don’t cook at too high a heat
for the oil to where it begins to smoke and break
down. For heavier cooking at higher temperatures,
consider using just virgin olive oil and possibly
mixing in a touch of extra virgin for the flavor
profile. You can also go for a triumvirate and blend
in a little canola oil with the two grades of olive
oil to increase the ability to cook comfortably at
somewhat higher levels of heat, or if you simply
want to adjust the flavor.
The price of a bottle of olive oil varies dramatically
based on the type, quality and country of origin. For
just cooking or even deep-frying, plain olive oil is
the best consideration, as well as being the least
expensive option. Virgin olive oil is less expensive
than extra virgin, and certain producers known for
especially delightful small batch oils can be very
expensive. So how much? It’s the extra virgin that
gets pricey. On the lower end, a bottle of 16 ounces
can cost just eight bucks. You can also find a similar
size container for $50 or more. This is where olive
oil is like wine.
An important consideration regarding olive oil
is storage. The oil has three natural enemies: air,
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light and heat. Keeping the container in a cool,
dark and dry location always helps. A smart tip
is to use a small dispenser for olive oil to keep it
Buying the oil in small enough
quantities that it lasts about a month
in your kitchen is a good way to ensure
you’re using fresh olive oil.
handy for cooking, available starting at about $2.
Buying the oil in small enough quantities that it
lasts about a month in your kitchen is a good way
to ensure you’re using fresh olive oil. It may cost
less per ounce in a larger container, but if it goes
bad—and you’ll know it by one quick sniff—you’ll
have wasted the money anyway.
When checking out olive oils on the store
shelves, you’ll find infused olive oils in addition to
the myriad of brands and prices, which are another
great consideration. Some are infused with garlic,
others with fresh herbs like rosemary, and still
others are smoked or truffle infused. If you want to
be daring, experiment with different oils to reach
unique culinary finds. And remember to dip the
bread in the oil you place on the table.E
Charles Jenkin is the host of This Show Is Cookin' on WBT radio, Sundays at 12p.m.
20 www.epicureancharlotte.com volume • issue 2 epicurean charlotte food & wine march • april 2011 21
4/30/2011