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Mystic Isles of the South Seas. Frederick O'Brien

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38<br />

I was at home <strong>the</strong>re after a few days as if I had known no o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

dwelling. That is a distinctive and compelling charm <strong>of</strong> Tahiti,<br />

<strong>the</strong> quick possession <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new-comer by his environment, and his<br />

unconscious yielding to <strong>the</strong> demands <strong>of</strong> his novel surroundings,<br />

opposite as <strong>the</strong>y might be to his previous habitat.<br />

Very soon I was filled with <strong>the</strong> languor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se isles. I hardly<br />

stirred from my living-place. The bustle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> monthly steamship-day<br />

died with <strong>the</strong> going <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Noa-Noa, <strong>the</strong> through passengers departing<br />

in angry mood because <strong>the</strong>ir anticipated hula dance had been a<br />

disappointment--wickedness shining feebly through cotton gowns when<br />

<strong>the</strong>y had expected nudity in a pas seul <strong>of</strong> abandonment. There was a<br />

violent condemnation by <strong>the</strong> duped men <strong>of</strong> "unwarranted interference<br />

by <strong>the</strong> French Government with natural and national expression."<br />

Hogg, an American business traveler, said "The Barbary Coast in<br />

Frisco had Tahiti skinned a mile for <strong>the</strong> real thing," and Stevens,<br />

a London broker, that <strong>the</strong> dance was "bally tame for four bob."<br />

Papeete, with <strong>the</strong> passing throng gone, was a quiet little town,<br />

contrasting with <strong>the</strong> hours when <strong>the</strong> streets swarmed with people<br />

from here and <strong>the</strong> suburbs, <strong>the</strong> band playing, <strong>the</strong> bars crowded, and<br />

all efforts for gaiety and coquetry and <strong>the</strong> selling <strong>of</strong> souvenirs<br />

and intoxicants. What exotic life <strong>the</strong>re was beyond <strong>the</strong> clubs,<br />

<strong>the</strong> waterfront, and <strong>the</strong> Asiatic quarter revolved around <strong>the</strong> Tiare,<br />

and entirely so because <strong>of</strong> its proprietress, Lovaina. She was <strong>the</strong><br />

best-known and best-liked woman in all <strong>the</strong>se <strong>South</strong> <strong>Seas</strong>, remembered<br />

from Australia to <strong>the</strong> Paumotus, from London to China, wherever were<br />

people who had visited Tahiti, as "dear old Lovaina."<br />

She was very large. She was huge in every sense, weighing much<br />

more than three hundred pounds, and yet <strong>the</strong>re was a singular<br />

grace in her form and her movements. Her limbs were <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> girth <strong>of</strong><br />

breadfruit-trees, and her bosom was as broad and deep as that <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

great Juno <strong>of</strong> Rome, but her hands were beautiful, like a plump baby's,<br />

with fascinating creases at <strong>the</strong> wrists, and long, tapering fingers. Her<br />

large eyes were hazel, and <strong>the</strong>y were very brilliant when she was merry<br />

or excited. Her expansive face had no lines in it, and her mouth<br />

was a perfection <strong>of</strong> curves, <strong>the</strong> teeth white and even. Her hair was<br />

red-brown, curling in rich pr<strong>of</strong>usion, scented with <strong>the</strong> hinano-flower,

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