october-2009

RYANAIR 

YOUR FREE COPY 

The Award Winning 

MAGAZINE 

ONBOARD 

SHOPPING 

FRAGRANCES, 

GADGETS, FOOD 

AND MORE 

PAGES 135–162 

16 OCT–15 NOV 

ISSUE 32 

WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM 

MASTERPEES 

Vienna’s modern 

art toilets 

CAESAR’S 

VISION 

REBORN! 

We reinvent the 

map of Europe 

BALTIC 

BITES 

Caviar and 

cabbage in Riga 

SKI 

SEASON 

PREVIEW 

| BEST RESORTS, SHORTEST TRANSFERS, SCARIEST LIFTS, MUST-HAVE ITEMS

ISSUE 32 

58 Nautical But Nice 

The sea breeze and salty air 

of Marseille’s Vieux Port is 

invigorating enough to bring 

out your sea legs... just make 

sure they are stylishly attired. 

PRICES AND STOCKIST INFORMATION INSIDE 

PHOTO TIFFANY MUMFORD 

64 

SKI SEASON PREVIEW SPECIAL 

Skiing’s awesome but choosing the right 

resort for your needs (best for powder, best for 

families...) can be tough. Not anymore! Take 

away the pain with our eight page expert guide 

to the season ahead. 

78 

WELCOME TO NEW EUROPE! 

As a continent that has always been ready 

to accept pragmatic change and social 

progression, we present to you our vision: 

Europe as one country, with fi ve counties 

(caution: sense of humour required). 

CONTENTS 

82 

FOR THE LAV OF ART 

Of all the places you expect you fi nd yourself 

appreciating art, the toilet is most likely quite 

low on the list... unless you are in Vienna, where 

unbridled creative expression and the calls of 

nature collide to stunning effect. 

88 

TRUST IN YOUR STURGEON 

Despite a reputation for being “bland and fatty”, 

Latvian food is in fact modern, varied and 

delicious, and includes the pioneering concept 

of “caviar with a conscience“, as our food writer 

Fiona Sims discovers. 

RYANAIRMAGAZINE 

03

CONTENTS 

ISSUE 32 

TAKE OFF 

SHORTLISTS 

31 / MADLIST 

Six of the scariest 

streets at night! 

35 / FORK IT 

Four eateries that are 

kind to your wallet. 

04 WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM 

11 

THE FILE 

Six hour ad 

marathons, wacky 

laws, plus how to be 

a cool politician and 

more dodgy signs! 

19 

UNDERCURRENTS 

Fall of the Berlin Wall 

celebrations, a robot 

festival and a spooky 

Irish storytelling 

competition! 

25 

TECH TALK 

An indestructible 

phone, an almost 

indestructible camera 

and a shake it to 

wake it torch. 

26 

DISTRACTIONS 

Amazing new 

electronic instrument, 

the world’s most 

complex mouse and 

DNA based art. 

29 

FASHION 

To show off the sexy 

side of every part of your 

body, we tell you how to 

pad your shoulders for 

maximum effect. 

32 / BEDROOMS 

We sample Europe’s 

best monastery hotels. 

36 / FIRST ORDERS 

Five swanky wine bars 

around the network. 

THE BIG PICTURE 

COMMENT 

CITY FOCUS 

38 

COCOON 

We visit the London 

Natural History 

Museum’s latest 

extension, the Darwin 

Centre and its Cocoon. 

41 

HOLIDAY HABITS 

All Alan Cumming 

needs on holiday is a 

dog friendly location, 

great veggie food and a 

nice big bath. 

43 

SAM DELANEY 

Regional accents can 

not only mislead, but 

also make you look like 

a fool in front of your 

nieces and nephews. 

44 

ZOE WILLIAMS 

Cold weather 

celebrations are so 

weird. Face it, they’re 

nothing more than an 

excuse to have fun. 

47 

MARSEILLE 

Breathe in the 

refreshing sea air 

and sumptuous food 

available around 

Marseille’s Vieux Port 

Fo o r u l ute m p v i www y 

Ryan i Tw Mi u e G i es 

SPAIN 

U BER R N H R 

60 

The Team 

EDITORIAL 

EDITOR 

Ramsay Short 

RAMSAY.SHORT@ 

INK-PUBLISHING.COM 

DEPUTY EDITOR 

Ed Chamberlin 

SUB EDITORS 

James Williams, 

Julie Alpine 

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS 

Mike Peake, Sejal 

Sukhadwala, Susi 

Weaser, Charlie Dawson 

INTERN 

Carlie Trotter 

DESIGN 

ART DIRECTOR 

Julia Murray 

GROUP PICTURE EDITOR 

Helen Cathcart 

PRODUCTION 

MANAGER 

Ana Vazquez 

PREPRESS 

Rob Bidwell 

LOGISTICS 

WWW.GOFERSLOGISTICS.COM 

YOUR FR E COPY 

he Awa d Win ing 

RYANAIR 

h t f i h i i h 

b di t t b h 

A cante 

A L E E A 

MAGAZINE 

O BOARD 

HOPP NG 

RA RAN ES 

ADG TS OOD 

ND MORE 

AG S 35 62 

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t i l E t i d) 

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D N T RRA A U GE 

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WW H M 

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or u f l ou e m p i t ww r an r om T T Y A S W L MS 

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S y h s ot h 

11 

6 OCT 5 N V 

U 

WW M M 

MASTERPEES 

Viennas mode n 

a t to ets 

CAESARS 

V SION 

REBORN! 

We ein ent the 

map of Europe 

BALTIC 

B TES 

C viar and 

cabba e n Riga 

SKI 

B S RE O T R T RANS E S C RE T I T 

A E T MS 

SEASON 

REV EW 

AT THE BACK 

Website 

Martin Buhr, Andy Shaw 


ADVERTISING 

GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR 

Mark Duke 

MARK.DUKE@ 

INK-PUBLISHING.COM 

SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVES 

Dawn Hall, Colin Mentis 

Claudio Cagliostro, Dante 

Blutmann, Kevin Smith, 

Edith Collins, Remigiusz 

Farbotko, Andy Gibson 

TEL: +44 (0)20 7613 8777 

INK PUBLISHING 

PUBLISHING ACCOUNT MANAGER 

Geraldine Moor 

CHIEF EXECUTIVE 

Jeffrey O’Rourke 

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER 

Hugh Godsal 

Disclaimer: © INK Publishing. 

All material is str ctly copyright and 

all rights are reserved. Production in 

whole or part is prohibited without prior 

permission from the publisher. Opinions 

expressed in Ryanair Magazine are not 

necessarily those of Ryanair. 

103–119 

TWO MINUTE 

GUIDES 

Eight countries, 24 cities 

get the lowdown on 

where to go! 

135–162 / RYANAIR GOODS 

Check out all the latest fantastic products onboard 

today’s fl ight from make-up to perfumes.

www.comunitatvalenciana.com 

w o n t t a e ci n o 

www.spain.info 

SPAANS VERKEERSBUREAU Laan van Meerdervoort 8ª, 2517 AJ DEN HAAG 

Tel.: (070) 346 59 00 Fax: (070) 364 98 59 infolahaya@tourspain.es www.spain.info/nl 

Regio Valencia. 

Heeft het helemaal.

The World’s Favourite Airline 

Thank you for choosing to fl y with Ryanair. I 

congratulate you on choosing Ryanair the only 

airline to offer the guaranteed lowest fares and 

no fuel surcharges ever. We are so confi dent that 

our prices will not be beaten, that our low fares 

guarantee will pay any passenger who does fi nd 

a cheaper fare on the same route a ‘double the 

difference’ refund*. Nobody beats Ryanair’s 

fares and that’s guaranteed. 

Ryanair has enjoyed a record breaking 

summer, the highlight of which saw 6.9 million 

passengers fl ying across our 950 great summer 

routes in August alone. Ryanair fares fell by 13% 

this summer, ensuring that hard pressed families 

could still get away for that all important summer 

holiday. Not content with record breaking 

summer passenger numbers, Ryanair will reduce 

fares by over 20% this winter to ensure that 

passengers continue to enjoy great value city 

breaks and winter sports holidays on our exciting 

ski routes which are available for booking now 

at unbeatable fares. 

We continue to grow while high fares airlines 

cut routes, close bases and lose passengers. 

Ryanair recently announced three new bases 

at Bari, Brindisi and Leeds Bradford, which will 

open in January, February and March next year 

to deliver even more of Ryanair’s guaranteed 

lowest fares to millions more passengers. 

I am pleased to confi rm that Ryanair’s 

transition to 100% web check in is complete and 

from the start of October all Ryanair passengers 

can forever avoid check in queues. Passengers 

travelling with just their 10kg free carry on bag 

can proceed straight to their boarding gate, 

while those with hold luggage simply drop it at 

one of our bag drop desks before going to their 

boarding gate. This will save passengers time 

and money as it will allow us to lower our airport 

and handling costs and pass these savings to all 

passengers in the form of even lower air fares. 

Passengers can check in online from 21 days 

to four hours before, and print or re print their 

boarding card up to 40 minutes prior to their 

scheduled departure time. Since we began the 

transition to 100% web check in, over 25 million 

Ryanair passengers have saved time and money 

by checking in in the comfort of their own home 

before leaving for the airport. 

Ryanair’s text confi rmation service has proved 

hugely popular since we introduced it earlier 

this year at a cost of just €1. The biggest users 

* T&CS APPLY 

of the service so far are tech savvy passengers 

from Italy (16%), the UK (15%), Spain (12%) 

and Ireland (5%) and even those in Vatican City 

have “blessed” the service with over 50 Vatican 

City residents opting to receive their booking 

confi rmation directly to their mobile phones, but 

for passenger confi dentiality reasons I can neither 

confi rm nor deny whether it was Il Papa taking 

advantage of our low fares routes to Memmingen 

(Munich West) in his Bavarian homeland. 

Finally, I hope you enjoy your fl ight with us 

today, and I invite you to sit back, relax and allow 

our wonderful crew to take great care of you. I 

look forward to welcoming you and your family 

onboard many more low fare Ryanair fl ights in 

the coming months. 

Thank you for choosing to fl y with Ryanair, the 

world’s favourite airline. 

Best Wishes 

MICHAEL O’LEARY 

Chief Executive 

WELCOME 

A few words from Michael O’Leary 

Ryanair Innovation: 

Standing Tickets 

Synopsis: Ryanair is exploring 

the possibility of adjusting its 

onboard seating confi guration 

to replace up to 60 traditional 

seats with handrails or “vertical 

seats”, which will allow 

passengers to safely stand 

during short sector fl ights 

(fl ights of one hour or less). 

Benefi t: Up to 20 vertical seats 

on each fl ight will be fare-free, 

while others will be 50% cheaper 

than traditional seats. This will 

allow greater effi ciencies and 

costs savings, which will lead to 

lower fares for all passengers. 

Future: Ryanair will work with 

Boeing over the coming months 

to develop this proposal further. 


07

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COMPACT 

Buy online today at www.dabs.com/ryanair 

Prices correct at time of going to print but may change without notice. Nothing in this ad forms part of any contract. Visit www.dabs.com for latest prices. Prices are inclusive of VAT but exclusive of delivery charges and will be confirmed at checkout. For full details, see 

www.dabs.com/delivery. We are only able to take orders online via our website for delivery to UK addresses. Errors and omissions excepted. Buy Now Pay in 12 Months: Available on orders between £250 and £5000. Arrangement fee of £25 will be charged. 10% deposit required. 

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ILLUSTRATION: ROSS MURRAY @ WWW.ROSSMURRAY.COM 

AHH… AN AUTUMN WEEKEND IN PARIS. 

A fi ne meal by the Seine, quaffi ng quite 

a few pressions of Kronenbourg 1664 at 

the New Morning jazz club in the 10th 

arrondissement, a walk home. Perfect… 

except when you get caught with your 

pants down. Yup, I was ticketed and fi ned 

€35 by an undercover gendarme on my 

recent trip and it wasn’t for the off ence of 

being a highly unfashionable Englishman 

in the French capital of style. 

Now I admit it’s not very civil, but you 

know how it is. I was walking back to my 

hotel from the club and had to answer 

the call of nature. Unfortunately, aft er I’d 

ducked into what I thought was a suitably 

inconspicuous alley and relieved myself, 

a man in plain clothes and dark glasses 

cornered me, read me my rights and 

handed me a ticket. For real! 

“Mais quoi! Non, c’est fou monsieur!” 

I exclaimed doing my best Jean Reno 

impression and waving my hands around 

wildly. But in fact it’s not mad at all, because 

in an eff ort to stem the fl ow (ahem!) of public 

peeing in Paris, 88 offi cers of the Brigade 

des Incivilités (Bad Behaviour Brigade) 

now scour the streets in unmarked cars 

waiting to catch anyone urinating, littering, 

fl y-posting or not pooper-scooping. 

It’s all part of a campaign against urine 

sauvage (“wild urine”). Now, OK, I should 

have used one of the self-cleaning grey pods 

called Sanisettes that dot the city’s streets, 

but they’re not that inviting — and I was 

desperate! In contrast, over in Vienna you 

can indulge your creative streak at one of 

the city’s artistic toilets, such as the Toilet 

of Modern Art, which is like an installation 

piece in itself. Or perhaps you could hop 

over to the Opera Toilet in Karlsplatz 

underground station, which plays famous 

arias while you spend a penny (as our 

writer fi nds on page 82). 

As for me, that’s the last time I step up to a 

wall and unzip in the City of Light (although 

the policeman did eventually let me off with 

a warning, as I was a tourist, the humiliation 

was enough). So remember: oui-oui is 

defi nitely a non-non in Paris. Zut alors! 

RAMSAY SHORT 

Editor 

WELCOME 

A few beers, a dark alley… a telling off from a policeman 

CONTRIBUTORS 

ALEXANDER JAMES 

Our investigation into Vienna’s artistic toilet 

scene on page 82 sees former senior writer at 

Men’s Health magazine and current contributor 

to Marie Claire, The National and Channel 4, Alex, 

pass water (after much beer) across the city. But 

rest assured it’s not his normal pastime! 

FIONA SIMS 

Gastronome Fiona skips the globe in pursuit of 

top chefs and legendary winemakers, writing 

about them for papers like The Times and mags 

like us. On page 88, she visits the food markets 

and restaurants of Riga and discovers a new line 

in sustainable caviar. Lucky for some, then! 

SCOTT CHAMBERS 

London based illustrator Scott’s work has 

appeared in GQ Australia, Mens Health US, 

Intelligent Life, The Times and FHM to name a 

few. On page 78 he illustrates the art for our New 

Europe feature where we redraw continental 

borders to create fi ve super states and one new 

super federation. And it looks great! 


09

Fly Finland! 

Visit Tampere, discover all. 

A city born from the power of the rapids, 

staying the same, yet its identity 

always evolving. The city of Tampere 

of today has a population of over 200 

000, a city of light and culture. One of 

the largest cities in Finland, it is recognised 

world wide as a pioneer in many 

fi elds. 

It is renowned as a dynamic centre of 

tourism, culture, congresses, festivals, 

events and business life, enjoyed by 

the residents and visitors alike. Now 

carrying the image of the most popular 

travel destination in Finland! 

Christmas Market 

www.gotampere.fi 

Tampere is situated in central Finland, 

with good links to the rest of the country. 

An international airport has brought 

it that much closer to the world’s other 

cities. There are direct fl ights to Tampere 

from Dublin, London, Frankfurt, 

Bremen, Milan, Riga and Stockholm. 

Nice souvenirs and gifts that are sure 

to please, unique pieces and affordable 

fi nds. Finnish design and international 

quality. A shopping bag is quickly 

fi lled in Tampere’s small boutiques, 

specialist shops, museum shops, fl ea 

market, antique dealers, factory outlets, 

department stores and large shopping 

centres. 

TAMPERE 

Indoor Market Hall 

Tampere – born over 200 years ago 

between two clear water lakes alongside 

the natural beauty of the rapids.

PHOTO © ADVERTISING ARCHIVES 

Rites of Passage 

LA NUIT DES PUBLIVORES 

Ads, so many reasons to hate them they 

interrupt our films, they slide creepily and 

uninvited onto our computer screens, and 

they block out all the natural beauty of the 

countryside as you drive down the motorway. 

But they get the job done, and the TV ad 

especially is something that has engrained 

itself in our collective memories. There are 

those we loved, those we hated and those we 

were just plain confused by. 

In a tribute to the 20th and 21st centuries’ 

most pervasive art form, hie thee to the 

Bozar Centre for Fine Arts in Brussels for a 

seemingly endless six hour procession of 

pure TV ads. More than 400 commercials 

from 70 countries will make you laugh, cringe, 

groan, cry, and possibly give you a chance 

to reflect on the role that the medium plays 

in modern society. Or you may just leave 

feverishly grasping for your wallet to go and 

buy a whole bunch of stuff you don’t need. 

7 NOVEMBER, WWW.NUITDESPUBLIVORES.BE 

FLY TO BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) FROM 50 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING ALICANTE, BARCELONA, BRINDISI, 

CARCASSONNE, DUBLIN, EDINBURGH, FARO (ALGARVE), 

SHANNON AND ZARAGOZA. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

TAKE OFF 

Facts, figures and fun from the Ryanair world of travel. Compiled by Ed Chamberlin 

The Numbers 

IMPRESS YOUR TRAVELLING COMPANIONS 

508 

Metres climbed by Alain “Spider- 

Man” Robert up Taiwan’s Taipei 101 

building on Christmas Day, 2004, as 

part of its opening celebrations. 

818 

Metres Robert will have to 

climb if he wants to scale 

the world’s tallest building, 

the Burj Dubai, scheduled to 

open 2 December. 

400,000,000,000,000, 

000,000,000,000,000 

The exchange rate of the Hungarian 

pengő to the forint when the latter 

was introduced in 1946. 

11.74 

Your 

Shout 

MARSEILLE, FRANCE 

This month, we asked: 

“What would 

be your dream 

job?” 

The exchange rate of forints to 

the US dollar, when the former 

was introduced in 1946. 

“Working in luxury, 

on a paradise 

island somewhere.” 

GWENDOLINE MACEDONIA, 

20, WAITRESS 

4.2 

Number in millions of tourists that 

visited the Vatican in 2006. 

826 

Offi cial population of 

Vatican City. 

820 

Age of the world’s oldest pub, Ye Olde 

Trip to Jerusalem, in Nottingham, 

which opened in 1189. 

284 

Age of the world’s oldest restaurant, Casa 

Botín, in Madrid, which opened in 1725. 

115 

Age of the world’s oldest record shop, 

Spillers Records, in Cardiff , which 

opened in 1894. 

SOURCES WWWTALLESTBUILDINGINTHEWORLD COM/BUILDING_ID_2_TAIPEI+101 PHP WWW BURJDUBAISKYSCRAPER COM WWWTRIPTOJERUSALEM 

COM HTTP //EN WIKIPEDIA ORG/WIKI/CASA_BOTÍN WWW SPILLERSRECORDS CO UK/ABOUT_SPILLERS/ HTTP //EN WIKIPEDIA ORG/WIKI/HUNGARIAN_ 

PENGÐ WWWTOUR-EUROPE ORG/VATICAN-CITY PHP HTTP //TRAVEL NYTIMES COM/2007/02/18/TRAVEL/18JOURNEYS HTML 

“I’m doing my dream 

job. I get to promote 

the area that I love!” 

MARIE VIGERIE, 27, 

PRESS OFFICER 

“Owning a tea shop 

with good cakes and 

exhibitions!” 

MARION FABRE, 31, 

PR EXECUTIVE 


11 

PHOTOS: HELEN CATHCART

36 HOLES SPECIAL GOLF OFFER 

UNLIMITED GREEN FEES!!! 

Accommodation for two persons at the 

Golf Hotel in Riva dei Tessali 

8 days/7 nights half board for Euro 750,00 per person 


SUPER OFFER 

Accommodation for Four Persons in the Residence 

Apartments directly on the Golf Course of Riva dei Tessali 



THE OFFER INCLUDES 

“Unlimited Green fees“ on our 2 Golf courses, trolleys and 1 

massage; shuttle-bus service from and to Bari or Brindisi airport. 

No golf players will be entitled to an extra 15% reduction. 

MENTION RYANAIR INFLIGHT MAGAZINE WITH YOUR BOOKING 

AND GOLF BALLS (for driving range) WILL BE FREE. 

Periods from 01/09 to 20/12 and from 10/01 to 14/06 

Average temperature: autumn 20˚-24˚ spring - 22˚-26˚ 

Riva Dei Tessali Hotel & Golf Resorts: 

36 Championship Holes 

between the shores of the Ionian sea and 

the temple of ancient Magna Grecia 

Riva dei Tessali Hotel & Golf Resort is situated in the region of 

Apulia in the south of Italy by the Ionian Sea. This region is rich 

in historical, archeological & cultural sites. 

The Golf Hotel - Harmonizing with green Aleppo pines, off ers 

its guests 70 well appointed rooms with all the facilities and a 

selection of between double, twin, junior suite to cater for all 

the requirements . 

Withing the hotel there are bars, restaurants, outdoor 

restaurant ideal for the warm hot weather to enjoy the 

experience of the Italian way to dine “Al Fresco” tasting the 

authentic local food & wine, in the relaxing atmosphere. 

Facilities include swimming pool (open only in the summer) 

a private beach with stunning views of the blue sea and 2 

tennis courts. 

Within the resort there are twelve beautiful well appointed 

superior rooms nestled in the pinewoods with all the facilities 

including Jacuzzi, satellite tv and pets are welcome. 

Not far from the hotel in the main entrance of the resort 

there are The Comignoli Residence/apartments. With twenty 

beautiful residences overlooking the golf course, which are self 

catering, with all its facilities and can sleep up to 4 people. 

The main attraction of the resort are the two beautiful 18 

hole championship Golf courses: Riva dei Tessali Golf course 

and Metaponto golf course, where the professional golfer can 

practice to his heart’s content. 

Riva dei Tessali Golf course is surrounded by 170 hectares of 

beautiful pine forests. Extending over a surface area of 5,947 

meters, par 71, sr133. The Golf course was designed in the 

very best championship tradition by British architect Jhon 

D. Harris. Riva dei Tessali off ers a wide variety of challenging 

holes and is rated by top international professionals as one of 

the best courses of Europe. For the players there are available, 

two putting green, pitching area with three pitch putt holes, 

and practice bunker. 

Metaponto the 2nd golf course not far from Riva dei Tessali 

is located in the charming countryside of Metaponto, an area 

with historic and ancient past and home to many artistic and 

archaeological treasures, picturesque landscape of the Lucania 

region. Built as a complement to Riva dei Tessali, Metaponto 

18 hole championship golf course extends over a surface area 

of 6,284 meters, par 72, sr 130,Set in and around citrus and 

olive groves. 

Every year many important events take place at Riva dei Tessali 

Golf, the most important being The International Tessali- 

Metaponto Open of Puglia and Basilicata, which reached the 

26th edition, infl uencing the best European players to visit 

the south of Italy. Riva dei Tessali has been choosen for many 

event in years as the qualifying school of the Ladies European 

Tour 2005, The Qualifying school of the Alps Tour and some 

Italian important amateur tournaments. 

The resort is located in the famous Magna Grecia region which 

is rich in history and open-air museums: from the Greek 

civilisation that is expressed in these lands in a sublime way, 

to the Roman period, from people who settled here from very 

diff erent origins and traditions down to our own days. A visit 

to Taranto with the most important collection of acient greek 

jewellery in the world, Sassi di Matera and Castel del Monte 

is a must as it is part of UNESCO. A visit to the famous Trulle 

in Alberobello. 

The food at Riva dei Tessali deserves to be highly recommended, 

both for the standards of organization of the restaurants and 

the people involved in setting it up and operating it. We must 

add that all the produce used comes from the Riva dei Tessali 

farm: from vegetables to fruits, wine and olive oil. 

Booking offi ce telephone number: Tel no +39(0)998439251 Fax.no +39(0)998439255 

e-mail golfhotelrdt@tiscali.it / hotel@rivadeitessali.com | website www.rivadeitessali.com

PHOTO © PHOTOLIBRARY 

Jola Sigmond’s 

Brain Workout 

Try these puzzles from 

“Scandinavia’s most 

intelligent man”, Jola 

Sigmond (IQ 192). If you 

can fi gure out the fi rst two 

you have an IQ above the 

average 100. Answers are 

at the bottom of the page, 

so no cheating! For more 

on Jola, visit www.iqart.se 

EASY 

HOW MANY “SQUARE MATCHES” DOES 

THE AREA OF THIS FIGURE CONSIST OF? 

INTERMEDIATE 

O P E N S 

FIND THE RIGHT KEYHOLE FOR EACH KEY. 

L O C K S 

DIFFICULT 

WHICH SQUARE COMES NEXT? 

T U R N 

SOLUTIONS / EASY: 3. Imagine the fi gure as a 

full triangle. Calculate the area thus: 4x3=12, 

then /2=6. Then subtract the three “square 

matches” that were added to make the full 

triangle originally. INTERMEDIATE: O L, P O, 

E K, N S, S C. Only the left side of the holes are 

interesting because we only see the left side 

of the keys. DIFFICULT: T. For each picture, the 

fi gure rotates 90˚clockwise, and the red circles 

turn blue and the blue circles turn red. 

How to be a cool… 

POLITICIAN 

Comedian Will Smith gives us his latest 

piece of advice on how to make glaring 

social ineptitude a thing of the past. 

Well, there’s JFK. He was young, dynamic and stylish. 

But more importantly, he slept with Marilyn Monroe. 

Other than that, the list runs a bit short… Tony Blair, for 

a bit? He used to be in a band, he liked REM, he came 

across as relaxed, reasonable and focused. But the 

whole false 45 minute claim/mishandling of the Iraq 

war/cash for peerages scandal takes the sheen off a bit. 

For any politicians reading this, here are some tips: 

SEND 

US YOUR 

PHOTOS 

EMAIL US AT: 

RYANAIR.ED@INK- 

PUBLISHING.COM 

TAKE OFF 

Never, ever try to namedrop a band unless you’re 

sure you’ve got the name right. They’ll know you’re 

lying if you say: “I’m a big fan of the Kaiser Chieftains!” 

If you’re photographed with a bunch of people who 

work in a supermarket, try not to look like you want to 

wash after shaking hands with them. 

Take style tips, but only to improve your existing 

look. You could probably get a better cut jacket, and 

buy some decent shirts and jeans that actually fi t. But 

don’t dress like you’re off to a Mighty Boosh gig. 

WILL’S BOOK HOW TO BE COOL (PUBLISHED BY JOHN MURRAY) IS 

AVAILABLE AT ALL GOOD BOOKSHOPS, WWW.HOWTOBECOOL.CO.UK 

Signspotting 

DUBLIN, IRELAND 

Dutchman Ozzie Butt found himself visiting 

Dublin Zoo recently, where he spotted this 

hysterical sign at the seal enclosure. “What can 

I say?” says Ozzie. “My wife and I laughed our 

socks off. You Irish are great!” Ozzie wins a copy 

of Doug Lansky’s book Signspotting 2, published 

by Lonely Planet! Email us your dodgy signs (at 

300dpi) to ryanair.ed@ink publishing.com. We’ll 

print the funniest one each month, and send you 

a copy of the book, too. 

FLY TO DUBLIN FROM 77 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING 

BRISTOL, KAUNAS AND NICE. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 


13

14 

TAKE OFF 

Mad 

Irish Slang 

(AND HOW TO USE IT IN CONTEXT) 

It’s our monthly off ering 

of lovely, vibrant (read “rude”) 

vocabulary from one of the many 

counties of the Emerald Isle — in this 

case, Sligo — courtesy of brilliant 

website www.slang.ie. So get on 

that Ryanair fl ight to Ireland and 

try it out on a local — we take 

no responsibility for any 

adverse results! 

Buckleppin 

(v.) 

Use in: 

County Sligo 

The mad acts of a person 

who is overly excited in 

a disco/nightclub. Also 

known as “jigacting”. 

“Arra sher 

here, ye were buckled 

a er the Buckies and 

ended up buckleppin round 

Envy City (Envy nightclub, or 

Equinox as it used to be known) 

last night like a mad yoke!” 

FIND FOR FOCAL SAKE! A 32 COUNTY 

GUIDE TO IRISH SLANG AT WWW.SLANG.IE, 

AND AT ALL GOOD BOOKSHOPS. 


I fought the law 

TOWNS WHERE DYING IS ILLEGAL 

We expend an enormous amount of effort fi ghting ageing: we lie about our age, apply creams 

with exotic sounding ingredients, go under the knife and even, ultimately, cryogenically freeze 

ourselves. It’s a surprise that dying hasn’t been made illegal! Oh, wait… it is illegal in some places. 

In the town of Lanjarón, near Granada, Spain, Mayor José Rubio Alonso took the extensive measure 

of outlawing death in 1999, in an effort to deal with the dwindling cemetery space available. 

Similar reasons have seen dying prohibited in the French towns of Le Lavandou, near Toulon, and 

Sarpourenx, near Pau. Although these laws are passed with an obvious sense of (morbid) humour, 

the serious point in each case has been to appeal for an expansion of the sparse space available for 

a proper burial. However, it is hard to think of a law that people would be more willing to abide by. 

FLY TO GRANADA FROM SEVEN DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BOLOGNA, LIVERPOOL AND MADRID. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

PHOTO © GETTY

A TASTEFUL 

BRATISLAVA 

Bratislava really comes to life in those 

autumn months for that aquired taste 

The summer, with its array of 

colourful cultural activities, 

is now gradually handing the 

baton over to the autumn, and 

the pulsating atmosphere of the 

summer terraces is slowly moving indoors 

to the cafés, restaurants and wine bars to 

excite the taste buds of many a gourmet. The 

autumn is not just a time when you can witness 

a blaze of colours in nature, as it also offers 

a ray of sunshine in the shape of a glass of 

fi ne wine. Although the fi rst chronicle about 

wine in Bratislava dates back 2,600 years, 

the tradition of this once wine-making city is 

brought to life every year. The Wine Harvest 

Celebrations, wine tasting and culinary feasts 

are always accompanied by traditional white 

and red burcˇiak wine (fermented must). Even 

though, in the last century, Bratislava has 

transformed into a vibrant metropolis, where 

former vineyards are now replaced by housing 

schemes and villas, the renovated city centre 

is full of cosy cafés and restaurants. Wine 

RYANAIR INFLIGHT PROMOTION 

lovers and viticulturists can enjoy a trip to 

the Museum of Viticulture in Apponyi House 

in the city centre or to the many wine bars 

offering a wide choice of wines from the Little 

Carpathian region. In Bratislava you don’t just 

see the autumn around you, you can smell it 

as well. The breeze carries the inviting aromas 

of goose and duck – traditional specialties, 

accompanied by lokše potato crepes and 

stewed cabbage. Don’t forget to make a 

reservation in advance, though, because 

these delicious dishes are extremely popular, 

attracting people from far and wide. Traditional 

“home” restaurants are particularly typical in 

the villages of Slovenský Grob and Chorvátsky 

Grob just 15km from Bratislava. A visit to 

Bratislava in the autumn combined with some 

special music event like the Bratislava Jazz 

Days and the Bratislava Music Festival should 

defi nitely be marked in your diaries as “not to 

be missed”. If you can’t make it in the autumn, 

don’t fret, the winter in Bratislava also exudes 

its own magical charm. 

BRATISLAVA JAZZ DAYS 

23 – 25 OCT 

The 34th year of Jazz Days 

is one of the biggest events 

of its kind in Central Europe. 

WWW.BJD.SK 

FESTIVAL OF ST. MARTIN 

5 – 8 NOV 

The event commemorating 

Saint Martin, one of the 

patron saints of Bratislava, 

is being organised for the 

fi fth time now. The event 

is accompanied by the 

Festival of Young Wine 

on the city squares, so 

you can appreciate the 

year round efforts of the 

winemakers by sampling 

the many various wines 

produced here. 

WWW.VISITBRATISLAVA.EU 

OPEN CELLARS DAY 

20 – 21 NOV 

A favourite event of the 

so called Little Carpathian 

Wine Route. Over the space 

of two days on the route 

from Bratislava to the well 

known winemaking towns 

of Modra and Pezinok, the 

wine cellars of over 100 

winemakers open their 

doors to give wine lovers 

the unique opportunity to 

sample the fruits of their 

labours, i.e. to taste some 

fi ne wines. 

WWW.MVC.SK 

CHRISTMAS MARKET 

AND CHRISTMAS 

IN THE CITY 

27 NOV – 23 DEC 

Winter and Christmas in 

the city offi cially starts each 

year with the Christmas 

tree lights being illuminated 

on Hlavne Namestie (Main 

Square). It is a special time 

of the year for meeting with 

friends and acquaintances. 

The Christmas atmosphere 

means culinary specialities 

like strudel, lokše potato 

crepes with poppy seed 

and nut or goose liver fi lling. 

To warm your bones we 

recommend some local 

Slivovica (plum brandy) or 

a glass of punch, and as a 

souvenir you can choose 

from the many typical wood, 

metal or leather handmade 

products. Visitors to the 

market simply love it. 

NEW YEAR´S EVE 

– PARTYSLAVA 2010 

31 DEC 

The last day of the year 

belongs to everyone who 

likes to have a good time. On 

the stages, in the streets and 

at concerts you can see for 

yourself just how Slovaks like 

to enjoy themselves, long into 

the night. Enjoy the New Year 

with an impressive fi reworks 

display in Bratislava. 

WWW.VISITBRATISLAVA.EU

TAKE OFF 

CABIN CREW CHARITY CALENDAR 

ALL PROCEEDS GO TO CHARITY 

THE GIRLS OF 

RYANAIR 

We bring you the 

beauties from the 

Ryanair cabin crew 

charity calendar 2009 

Age: 23 

From: Malta 

Based: Bremen 

Fast Facts: Rock chick 

Daniela is a Sagittarius, and a 

spontaneous soul who loves 

travelling, hot weather and 

beaches. And hailing from the 

beautiful island of Malta we 

are not surprised! She loves 

Radiohead, all electronic 

music, and kickboxes in her 

spare time. No wonder she 

looks so good out of uniform! 

PHOTO: MIKE ROSENTHAL 

16 WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM

www.germany-tourism.de/active 

Destination Germany. Great deals. Easy booking. 

Slopes, cities and spas. 

All part of a balanced winter holiday. 

Get ready to hit the slopes. Picture-perfect pistes, high-profi le winter sports events and aff ordable prices: Germany‘s 

winter regions from the Harz hills to the Alps provide everything you need for a dream holiday in the snow. Speedy 

downhill runs, sweeping descents into valleys and long-distance cross-country skiing tours through unspoilt nature – 

Germany has plenty of winter sports experiences on off er, with high quality at reasonable prices wherever you decide 

to go. For further information visit 

© Deutsche Zentrale für Tourismus e. V. Gefördert durch das Bundesministerium für Wirtschaft und Technologie aufgrund eines Beschlusses des Deutschen Bundestages 

© Panthermedia GmbH

Welcome to the 

Outletcity Metzingen! 

more than 60 factory outlets turn Metzingen into one of the most impressive and leading 

factory outlet locations in Europe. Not only are the prices appealing for the visitors, but 

also the architecture. So a shopping tour quickly becomes a shopping adventure. 

Every year more than three million people come to the OUTLETCITY METZINGEN 

from all over the world to buy leading brands in fl agship outlets at reduced prices. 

Metzingen, 30km south of Stuttgart, with its world famous OUTLETCITY is like 

no other. Here shopping is not simulated on green fi elds outside town but rather 

stimulated as a real purchasing experience in the centre of town. The OUTLETCITY 

METZINGEN offers a unique aggregation of factory outlets of over 60 international 

top brands, mostly in spacious fl agship stores, with year round price reductions of 

30 70%. 

Including brands: Adidas, Bally, Burberry, Diesel, Dyrberg/Kern, Escada, Esprit, 

Hugo Boss, Joop, Lacoste, Levis, Dockers, Marc O’Polo, Miss Sixty, Energie, Möve, 

Nike, Oakley, O’Neill, Peak Performance, Pepe Jeans, Polo Ralph Lauren, Puma, 

Quiksilver, Roxy, Schiesser, s.Oliver, Strellson, Strenesse, Swatch, Timberland, 

Tommy Hilfi ger, Windsor, Wolford, WMF, Basler, Bogner, Frank Walder, Golfi no, 

Otto Kern, Petit Bateau, Pierre Cardin, Sigikid…and many more. 

The small town at the foot of the Swabian Alb combines tradition and modernity: 

the groundbreaking architecture of the outlets and the historical city centre make 

for a unique ambience. In addition Metzingen is situated in sunny southern Germany, 

surrounded by a picturesque landscape of vineyards, forests and orchards. 

Metzingen grows grapes on around 30 hectares. Events such as the Sieben 

Keltern Festival and the Open Sunday in October 2009, the Open Sunday in May 

2010, the Late Night Shopping in July, give the opportunity to combine shopping, 

wine tasting and swabian tradition. 

The nearby middle Neckar region, one of Europe’s economic powerhouses, has 

much to offer in the way of culture, while the Black Forest and Lake Constance are 

just a stone’s throw away. There is a lot to discover whether you have a few hours 

or a few days. 

Explore Metzingen and the region with us you’ll realise it’s worth it. 

Detailed information and newsletter subscription: 

www.outletcity-metzingen.com 

EXCELLENT LOCATION: 

Memmingen (Munich West) 

Airport, Karlsruhe/Baden airport, 

Friedrichshafen airport. The New 

Stuttgart Trade Fair Centre are only a 

stone’s throw away. Connected to the 

German railway network. Other famous 

German destinations can be easily 

reached from Metzingen. 

www.metzingen.de 

Tourist-Information Lindenplatz, 

Phone +49(0)7123/925-326 

touristinfo@metzingen.de

PHOTO © ORIANA ELIÇABE 

LONDON, UK 

ATP World Tour Finals 

It has previously been held New York and 

Shanghai, but from 2009 2012 the ATP World 

Tour Finals will be coming to London. The cream 

of the tennis crop will be descending on the O2 

Arena to fi ght for this prestigious end of year 

trophy, which only eight players can qualify 

for based on their performance over the last 

12 months. The top of the game hasn’t been 

so competitive for a long time, so this year’s 

tournament should be ace. 

22 29 NOVEMBER, 

WWW.BARCLAYSATPWORLDTOURFINALS.COM 

FLY TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND STANSTED) FROM 

OVER 100 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING MILAN (BERGAMO), 

POZNAN AND SEVILLE. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

TAKE OFF 

Hip happenings in all your favourite holiday destinations. Compiled by Amy Dennis 

OSLO, NORWAY 

Oslo World 

Music Festival 

Oslo’s annual gathering of 

music stars will be bringing 

over 300 world acts to the 

stage this autumn, with 

styles as diverse as fl amenco, 

reggae and afrobeat. Artists 

to look out for include 

Spanish hip-hop/fl amenco 

outfi t Ojos de Brujo 

(pictured) and Nigerian 

drummer Tony Allen 

who have enjoyed sell-out 

tours all year. Held in some 

spectacular locations, the 

festival looks set to be one 

of the most eclectic of the 

season, and a warm respite 

from Norway’s winter cold. 

3 8 NOVEMBER, 

WWW.OSLOWORLDMUSICFESTIVAL.NO 

FLY TO OSLO (RYGGE AND TORP) FROM 

24 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ALICANTE, 

DUSSELDORF (WEEZE) AND LODZ. 

VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 


19

Bohinj 

Slovenia 

Easy to reach 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Easy to love 

 

 

 

 

 

 

winter mountain biking 

Just plain easy 

a ski destination 

that’s easy to reach 

and easy to love 

 

Visit www.mountvacation/ryanair.com 

 

 

 

BOOK YOUR NEXT 

HOLIDAY ONLINE 

www.MountVacation.com 

1 website | 4 seasons | 5 languages | 10 countries | 430 mountain resorts | 150.000 offers 

OBS d.o.o. [Online.Booking.Systems], Jožeta Jame 12, 1000 Ljubljana

MANCHESTER, UK 

Festival of Robotics 

Alright, let’s face it, they’re going to take 

over the world sooner or later, so why 

not just get it over and done with and 

honour our new robotic overlords with 

a festival? Dressed in white coats and 

holding clipboards, robot experts will be 

showing off the latest in robotic arts at 

venues across Manchester, with cameos 

from Bridget the Mars Rover and the 

melodramatic RoboThespian (pictured). 

You can also watch a robot football 

match, and — if all that doesn’t compute 

— there’ll be a host of demos and talks, as 

well as hands-on workshops for children. 

24 27 OCTOBER, WWW.WALKINGWITHROBOTS.ORG 

FLY TO MANCHESTER FROM 10 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING 

BREMEN, DUBLIN AND SHANNON. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

LONDON, UK 

Camden Lock Market 2.0 

Camden Town has been a rocking area of market 

traders, bars, music venues and street culture 

for years. Today, following a revamp after a fi re 

destroyed part of the market beside Regent’s 

Canal in 2008, Camden Lock is trendier than 

ever. Must dos are comedy club Jongleurs, hip 

photography gallery Proud and Yumchaa Tea Shop. 

WWW.CAMDENLOCKMARKET.COM 


OVER 100 DESTINATIONS. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

TAKE OFF 

BERLIN, GERMANY 

Fall of the Berlin Wall Celebrations 

Take a stroll from Berlin’s Potsdamer Platz down to the Brandenburg Gate this November and you 

could be bumping into a bunch of 2.5m high dominoes 1,000 of them to be precise. The towering 

blocks are being installed all along this 2km stretch to mark 20 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall, 

and will be toppled over in spectacular style as part of the huge, city wide celebrations. The dominoes 

have been decorated by everyone from schoolchildren to local artists and even the family of Nelson 

Mandela all of which is meant to signify the unity of this now ultra modern city. 

7 9 NOVEMBER, WWW.MAUERFALL09.DE 

FLY TO BERLIN (SCHONEFELD) FROM EIGHT DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING EDINBURGH. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 


21

22 

TAKE OFF 

LONDON, UK 

London Film Festival 

Proving once again its reputation for hosting 

world premieres, The Times BFI 53rd London 

Film Festival sees the arrival of Fantastic Mr. Fox 

Wes Anderson’s fi lm adaptation of the Roald 

Dahl classic. You can expect a host of stars 

in attendance throughout the 15 day movie 

marathon, which rounds off with the much 

anticipated debut from artist Sam Taylor Wood. 

Nowhere Boy tells the story of John Lennon’s 

childhood, led by Brit newcomer Aaron Johnson. 

14 29 OCTOBER, WWW.BFI.ORG.UK 


OVER 100 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING LINZ. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 


LOUGH GUR, IRELAND 

Storytelling 

Festival 

In the run-up to the 

Gaelic festival of Samhain 

— a time for tales of 

ghouls and ghosts — why 

not enjoy some calmer 

Irish traditions at this 

storytelling and music 

event? Held on the shores 

of a picturesque lake in 

County Limerick, it’s the 

perfect atmosphere for 

folk dances, classic yarns 

and music from the likes 

of award-winning singersongwriter 

John Spillane 

(pictured). You can also 

catch a play by the Lough 

Gur Amateur Dramatic 

Society. Perfect for families. 

23 26 OCTOBER, 

WWW.BALLYHOURACOUNTRY.COM 

FLY TO SHANNON FROM 27 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING CARCASSONNE 

AND WROCLAW. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

MADRID, SPAIN 

Strawberry Train 

Hop aboard this steam train at Madrid’s 

Delicias station and trundle down the line to 

the picturesque town of Aranjuez famed for 

its fresones (large strawberries), which you 

can enjoy en route served up by stewardesses 

in traditional costume. Once there, explore the 

18th century Royal Palace, then stroll down to 

the banks of the Tagus river and the Museo de 

Falúas, home to a fl eet of historic pleasure boats 

owned by the Spanish monarchy. 

17 18, 24 25 OCTOBER, AND 31 OCTOBER 1 NOVEMBER, 

WWW.RENFE.ES/TRENFRESA 

FLY TO MADRID FROM 33 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING 

BARCELONA (GIRONA), BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI), PARIS 

(BEAUVAIS) AND TENERIFE SOUTH. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM

Groupe 36 ° / RCS Lyon B 380 259 044 - Pictures: G. Lansard, P.Lebeau, OT Saint Martin de Be leville 

www.3vallees-village.com

PHOTOGRAPHY: WWW.PIXELEYESPHOTOGRAPHY.CO.UK 

EXTREME SPORTS 

ACCESSORIES 

1 

1 / ATC5K ACTION CAMERA 

Attach this video camera to 

your handlebars, helmet or 

harness, press record and get 

ready to upload your exploits 

later on YouTube. There’s 32MB 

of memory, plus an SD card to 

expand it further, should your 

adventures take on an epic turn. 

€205, WWW.OREGONSCIENTIFIC.CO.UK 

OUR 

FAVE 

THIS ISSUE 

2 / OLYMPUS MJU TOUGH 6010 

Shockproof to 1.5m, waterproof 

to 3m and freezeproof to -10°C, 

there’s not much else you could 

chuck at this camera! The tap 

control gives you access to basic 

functions, which is especially 

handy if you’re underwater or 

wearing ski gloves. 

€341, WWW.OLYMPUS.COM 

THE SHORTLISTS 

Gadget expert extraordinaire Susi Weaser takes the latest toys for a ride 

2 

3 / SHAKE POWERED TORCH 

Halfway up a mountain, the last 

thing you want is to run out of 

batteries. An essential piece of 

kit, just 45 seconds of shaking 

this torch equals fi ve minutes of 

light. Kinetic energy creates the 

power, while the LED bulb ensures 

it lasts as long as possible. 

€7, WWW.GADGETSHOP.COM 

3 

4 / LAND ROVER S1 

Built to withstand more than 

your average mobile mishap, 

this phone can be submerged in 

water for up to 30 minutes, and is 

dust, shock and drop proof. It also 

boasts a reassuringly long battery 

life, with each charge netting you 

up to 11.5 hours’ talk time. 

€294, WWW.LANDROVERPHONE.CO.UK 

4 


25


Ed Chamberlin brings you the latest books, art and cool stuff 

HOT 

PICKS 

The revolutionary instrument 

Eigenharp 

There are two reasons to play guitar: a) to make beautiful music, and b) more 

commonly, to look cool. Thing is, what’s cool about playing something that 

everyone else plays? Enter the Eigenharp. In the making for eight years, it’s the 

most expressive electronic instrument ever created. With 132 keys on its neck, 

each one touch-sensitive to less than a micron, it’s all devices rolled into one. 

There are programmable live drums, a mouthpiece for wind instruments, 

searing guitars and myriad squelchy noises. Not only is this 

the most fun, dynamic, characterful and revolutionary 

instrument you will ever use, but you’ll look damn 

good playing it, too! 

EIGENHARP ALPHA (PICTURED), €4,425, 

EIGENHARP PICO (22 KEYS), €390, 

WWW.EIGENLABS.COM 

The quirky artwork 

DNA 11 

Who wants boring old family portraits on the 

wall when you can go all CSI with a picture 

of your own DNA? DNA 11 creates just such 

visualisations, which are surprisingly stylish and 

modern arty looking. By randomly selecting 

sequences from your genome, they represent 

you in the form of spaced blocks, and will even 

enlarge your fi ngerprints to immense sizes. Just 

don’t commit any crimes after that! 

FROM €152, WWW.DNA11.COM 


The gamers’ friend 

Razer Naga 

How many buttons do you have on your 

mouse? Two?! What self respecting person has 

only two buttons on their mouse? Come on, get 

with the programme today’s computer user 

needs at least 17 mouse buttons. The Razer 

Naga is specifi cally aimed at online gamers 

and ergonomically designed for extended use. 

There’s also a programmable 1 12 number pad 

on the side, so you can shave precious split 

seconds off your reaction times by not having 

to reach for the keyboard while playing. For the 

World of Warcraft player in your life. 

€80, EU.RAZERZONE.COM 

The coff ee-table book 

Earthbound: a Rough Guide to the 

World in Pictures 

Everyone buys a guidebook at one time or 

another, and while people will consult different 

chapters for their itineraries, the bit everyone 

turns to are the picture pages offering a 

tantalising flavour of the country in question. 

Here, Rough Guides collects some of its most 

evocative images from the last 25 years in a 

beautiful and wanderlust inspiring tome. 

OUT NOW, €22

At novotel.com, with 

“Early Breaks” 

book early and pay less... 

per room, per night 

including breakfast 

BOOK UP TO 21 DAYS IN ADVANCE 

AND ENJOY GREAT RATES. 

City From City From City From 

Brussels 99 € London 97 € Bologna 69 € 

Amsterdam 99 € Edinburgh 76 € Rome 79 € 

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Reservation 21 days in advance (except in France: 14 days in advance). Offer valid for 

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prepayment on booking. Reservations are not refundable, changeable or cancellable.

Non stop Gatwick Express trains to 

London Victoria Station take just 

30 minutes, departing every 15 minutes. 

Book online and save even more time. 

gatwickexpress.com 

The fastest way between 

Gatwick Airport and 

central London

PHOTO © REX FEATURES 

A new trend in 60 seconds 

SCULPTURED SHOULDERS 

Forget your naughty bits, the fl eshy part of 

your earlobe, the backs of your knees, because 

fashion has uncloaked a yet more explosive 

erogenous zone: the shoulders. Yes, the 

shoulders are the new G spot as every designer 

worth their window seat at The Ivy knows. 

Sexy, sculptured shoulders were pushing 

the pitiful aside all through the 1980s fests 

that were the autumn/winter collections in 

New York and Paris earlier this year. Quicker 

than you could say “Krystle and Alexis catfi ght”, 

Max Azria and Hervé Léger were fronting up 

with pointy architectural shoulders that paired 

Dynasty with The Enterprise for space age chic, 

and one shoulder dresses made up of metallic, 

tiled squares, guaranteed to cling on. 

Givenchy’s sharp shoulders came in 

black and nude tones, while Phillip Lim and 

Calvin Klein wedged their shoulder pads into 

structured jackets and sharp cornered blouses, 

WE L VE 

€36, WWW.AWEAR.COM 

Stripe Lurex Shoulder Pad 

Dress, with enough padding 

for the Chicago Bears. 

WILL IT TRAVEL? 

YES 

OUR 

FAVE 

THIS ISSUE 

€50, WWW.MISSSELFRIDGE.COM 

Declare yourself the latest 

addition to Dynasty with 

this Denim Shoulder Dress. 

MARC ROUSSEAU, 27, BRUSSELS 

“Life here can 

be bureaucratic: 

women need lots 

of support to 

shoulder the stress.” 

together with fl oaty fabrics and skimming vests. 

So those hoping to stand out with this trend will 

now be sporting rouched, capped shoulders 

and sticking us the corporate fi nger as they 

head off for a power pee in the staff toilets, 

screaming: “Lunch is for wimps!” 

I remember those crazy family hols on the 

Costa del Sol. Dad staged a photo op in front 

of a yacht at Puerto Banus, when romance 

overcame the old charmer and he regaled 

Mum with a raspberry coloured two piece 

suit: a pencil skirt and a shoulder padded 

jacket. How I salivated over that buttery leather 

as I trailed her round Tivoli World. Oh, the glama! 

So, you greedy fashion gobblers, you wanna 

know who’s wearing it right before you go 

trotting off to the high street with your hard 

earned cash? Well, let’s see: Rihanna, Gwyneth, 

Gaga, Posh (pictured), Beyoncé and more. If 

you need further convincing, shoulder pads 

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Style advice for fashionistas in need by Charlie Dawson 


29

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SCARY STREETS 

AFTER MIDNIGHT 

FLORENCE, ITALY 

VIA DEL FORTE DI SAN GIORGIO 

By day, you couldn’t fi nd a nicer spot from which to enjoy this 

magical Italian city. But by night it feels remote and creepy up 

here — and if you get the feeling you’re being watched, then 

maybe you are. The fort you’re standing right next to is the 

Belvedere, where witches were once burnt at the stake and 

where countless ghosts are said to hang out. 

FLY TO PISA (FLORENCE) FROM 39 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BARCELONA (GIRONA), CAGLIARI, DUBLIN, 

DUSSELDORF (WEEZE), MEMMINGEN (MUNICH WEST), TRIESTE AND ZADAR. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 


Mike Peake is afraid, very afraid, it being Halloween and all 


O’CONNELL STREET 

At odds with the city’s laid back vibe, Dublin’s main 

thoroughfare was named in a 2003 report as the 

country’s most dangerous street. Crime had risen 

160% over fi ve years, and lairy drunks at night 

were the biggest problem. The report said 40% of 

all offences were committed in or outside pubs, 

which means if you cross the road when you see a 

boozer your chances of living rise considerably. 

FLY TO DUBLIN FROM 77 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING 

RODEZ AND VENICE (TREVISO). VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

MALAGA, SPAIN 

EL CAMINITO DEL REY 

OK, so it’s not a street as such, but this 

treacherous, unlit path hugging the side of a 

steep gorge in southern Spain is defi nitely no 

place to be after midnight. Just one metre wide 

and crumbling in many places, the path affords 

the adventurous tourist the chance of a 1,000ft 

drop into the river below. There’s no handrail for 

most of it. People die there. Don’t go. 

FLY TO MALAGA FROM 18 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING 

BREMEN AND EDINBURGH. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

ROME, ITALY 

VIALE DELLO STADIO OLIMPICO 

The main drag outside Stadio Olimpico, home to 

famous clubs AS Roma and SS Lazio, has seen 

its fair share of running battles over the years. 

Most nights you’ll be fi ne, but wear a Napoli 

shirt here after a match and you’d do well to be 

holding onto a molecular transporter as well. 

FLY TO ROME (CIAMPINO) FROM 28 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING IBIZA AND WROCLAW. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 


HAUPTSTRASSE, HOHENSCHONHAUSEN 

German newspaper Bild described this area in 

the east of the city as the centre of a “bloody gang 

war” in August after a man was shot dead in the 

street. He had just switched allegiance from the 

Hells Angels to a rival gang called the Bandidos, so 

don’t wear your Motörhead T shirt just in case. 

FLY TO BERLIN (SCHONEFELD) FROM EIGHT DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING MILAN (BERGAMO). VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

ALPS, ITALY 

STELVIO PASS 

Quite what you’d be doing here after midnight is 

anyone’s guess, but maybe you left the campsite 

a bit late, or the hotel had a really slow check out? 

Descending from a height of almost 2,800m and 

with 48 hairpin bends, this drive from hell at night 

is actually one of the most spectacular drives in 

the world by day, if only marginally less risky. 

FLY TO MILAN (BERGAMO) FROM 51 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING BERLIN AND MADRID. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 


31


Our correspondents try out these retreats around the network 

HOTELS IN MONASTERIES 

AND CONVENTS 

GRANADA, SPAIN 

Parador de Granada 

This 15th century former convent 

is situated inside the grounds of 

the fabulous Alhambra Palace 

against a backdrop of the Sierra 

Nevada mountains. Best of all, 

because the Alhambra closes 

its doors to the public at night, 

you can take a leisurely stroll 

around the grounds in private. 

For the best views, ask for the 

Rey Fernando room in the tower 

overlooking the gardens. 

DOUBLES FROM €219. REAL DE LA 

ALHAMBRA, TEL: +34 958 221 440, 

WWW.PARADOR.ES 

FLY TO GRANADA FROM SEVEN 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BOLOGNA AND 

MADRID. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 


CHIUSI DELLA VERNA, ITALY 

Santuario della 

Verna 

St Francis of Assisi once lived and 

prayed at this monastery, which 

is revered by Catholics the world 

over. The saint is even said to have 

received the Stigmata here in 

1224. Make your own pilgrimage 

and stay in one of the 72 single, 

double or triple rooms, all with 

heating and en suite bathrooms. 

It’s not total spirituality though, 

as the monks run a bar with wines 

and homemade liqueurs. 

FROM €40 HALF BOARD. 45 VIA DEL 

SANTUARIO, TEL: +39 0575 5341 

FLY TO PERUGIA FROM BARCELONA 

(GIRONA) AND LONDON (STANSTED). 


ETTAL, GERMANY 

Ludwig Der Bayer 

One of nicest hotels managed by 

monks anywhere in this case from 

the Benedictine Abbey of Ettal 

this place is set in the lush, inspiring 

landscape of the Ammergau Alps. 

Come winter, there’s a fairytale 

feel as the whole village is covered 

in snow, and indoors you’ll fi nd a 

pool, sauna and a living room with 

a roaring fi re. The monks’ home 

brewed beer is well worth a taste, 

too. Full relaxation. 

DOUBLES FROM €94, INCLUDING 

BREAKFAST. 10 12 KAISER LUDWIG PLATZ, TEL: 

+49 (0)88 229 150, WWW.KLOSTER ETTAL.DE 

FLY TO MEMMINGEN (MUNICH WEST) 

FROM 10 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ALICANTE 

AND BREMEN. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC 

The Augustine 

At the foot of Prague Castle, this 

converted abbey hotel occupies 

seven buildings, including the 13thcentury 

St Thomas’s Monastery, where 

monks still reside. We loved the Cubistinspired 

rooms, opulent restaurant and spa. 

DOUBLES FROM €320, INCLUDING BREAKFAST. 

12/33 LETENSKA, TEL: +42 026 611 2233, 

WWW.THEAUGUSTINE.COM 

FLY TO PRAGUE FROM FOUR DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING BIRMINGHAM. VISIT 

WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

ST LAURENT LES BAINS, FRANCE 

Abbaye Notre- 

Dame des Neiges 

Run by Trappist monks, this 

abbey lies in the southern French 

countryside between Nîmes and 

Clermont Ferrand. It’s a full time 

working monastery, so you’ll be 

staying in a sparse cell just like 

the monks writer Robert Louis 

Stevenson bedded down here in 

1878. It’s free, but guests are left to 

donate what they feel is appropriate 

and help out with small chores. 

LA MAISON DE ZACHEE, TEL: +33 (0)46 646 

5900 ON MONDAY, THURSDAY AND FRIDAY, 

10AM 12PM, HTTP://NDNEIGES.FREE.FR 

FLY TO NIMES FROM BRUSSELS 

(CHARLEROI), LIVERPOOL AND LONDON 

(LUTON). VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

REVIEWS BY: RAMSAY SHORT, FELIX EL HAGE, CHARLIE DAWSON

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NEW HOTEL 

STARTING AT 55 € / DOUBLE 

bratislava combines culture, 

shopping & business 

Freiberg 3 stars plus and Seevilla Freiberg 4 stars are 

situated directly on the lake with huge garden, all rooms 

have lake facing balconies or terrace, welcome cocktail, free 

morning shuttle service to ski lift, curling and ice-skating 

on the lake (weather permitting), free parking, restaurant 

overlooking views of the lake, conservatory-style lounge, 

free use of wellness centre, hot buffet-style breakfast, 4 

course dinner with 3 main dish choices plus salad buffet. 

www.seehotel-freiberg.at - email: info@seehotel-freiberg.at 

Free Airport Shuttle with this ad. 

Mention the code RYANAIR when making your reservation. 

Valid till December 29, 2009. 

Chopin Airporthotel Bratislava, Galvaniho ul. 28, SK-821 04 Bratislava 

Tel.: +421 2 322 99 - 100, Fax: +421 2 322 99 - 530 

info@chopinhotel.sk, www.chopinhotel.sk, www.vi-hotels.com

PHOTO © EMILY WYLLIE-BALLARD 

STUPENDOUS BUDGET 

RESTAURANTS 


Ottenthal 

This elegant Austrian restaurant 

serves fuss free, yet sophisticated, 

dishes that balance central Europe’s 

sweet, savoury and tangy fl avours. 

On the regularly changing menu of 

hearty old and new dishes you’ll fi nd 

delicious gems like warm roasted 

scallop salad and shredded raisin 

pancakes with stewed plums. 

TWO COURSE MEAL WITH A GLASS OF 

WINE, ABOUT €25. 153 KANTSTRASSE, TEL: 

+49 (0)30 313 3162, WWW.OTTENTHAL.COM 

FLY TO BERLIN (SCHONEFELD) FROM 

EIGHT DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING EAST 

MIDLANDS. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

FLORENCE, ITALY 

Dei Frescobaldi 

Part stylish eatery, part wine bar, 

it’s the traditional Tuscan food that 

really shines here. Choose from 

different price brackets on the 

seasonal menu, and tuck into the 

likes of polenta and black cabbage 

soup, and a lovely stewed cod in a 

light sweet and sour sauce. 

TWO COURSE MEAL WITH A GLASS 

OF WINE, ABOUT €22. 2 4/R VIA DEL 

MAGAZZINI, TEL: +39 055 284 724, 

WWW.FRESCOBALDIWINEBAR.IT 

FLY TO PISA (FLORENCE) FROM 39 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING FRANKFURT (HAHN). 

AND LILLE. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 


Sejal Sukhadwala eats for cheap(ish) around the Ryanair network 

LONDON, UK 

Little Bay 

It’s not just great value food, but 

a great atmosphere at this modern- 

European bistro, which is decked out 

with quirky artworks and features live 

opera Thursdays–Saturdays. Dishes like pork 

fi llet with sautéed cabbage, duck confi t, and 

asparagus risotto are smart, simple and tasty. 

TWO COURSE MEAL WITH A GLASS OF WINE, ABOUT €17. 

228 YORK RD, TEL: +44 (0)20 7223 4080, WWW.LITTLEBAY.CO.UK 

FLY TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND STANSTED) 

FROM OVER 100 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BARI, 

GENOA, KATOWICE AND LOURDES. VISIT 


PARIS, FRANCE 

La Ferrandaise 

Famous for using meat from 

rare breed Ferrandaise cows, this 

acclaimed Parisian restaurant creates 

solid, no nonsense dishes, such as 

glazed calves’ sweetbreads with 

buttered green beans and bacon. The 

dining room has carved stone walls 

and timber beams, and there’s also a 

cosy lounge area and a cellar. 

SET MEALS FROM €15. 8 RUE DE 

VAUGIRARD, TEL: +33 (0)14 326 3636, 

WWW.LAFERRANDAISE.COM 

FLY TO PARIS (BEAUVAIS) FROM 19 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ALICANTE AND 

PISA (FLORENCE). VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

THE FOODIES’ 

COLUMN 

MOUNTAIN CHEESE 

OLYMPICS 

Taking place at the Swiss 

towns of Saignelégier, Bellelay 

and Tramelan, this fab annual 

cheese festival features milking 

workshops, tastings, a three-day 

seminar and a cheese competition 

held in an abbey where over 800 

varieties will be judged. 

22 25 OCTOBER, 

WWW.CASEUSMONTANUS.CH 

FLY TO BASEL FROM SIX 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING LONDON 

(STANSTED). VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

ABERDEEN COUNTRY FAIR 

This popular food fair on central 

Belmont Street usually happens 

on the last Saturday of each 

month. Stallholders sell local 

products like Aberdeen Angus 

beef, fi sh from Aberdeen and 

Peterhead harbours, cakes, 

cheeses, fruit and veg, jams, 

whiskies and confectionery. 

WWW.ABERDEENCOUNTRY 

FAIR.CO.UK 

FLY TO ABERDEEN FROM DUBLIN. 


CULINARY MARRAKESH 

Take an autumn culinary break to 

Marrakesh with On The Menu. The 

company offers classes and stays 

of up to a week from September– 

May, led by a local cook with the 

aid of an interpreter. Groups are 

intimate and you can learn how to 

make savoury and sweet pastries, 

tagines and couscous. Plus, 

there’s trips to the souks and a 

chance to explore the city. 

WWW.HOLIDAYONTHEMENU.COM 

FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 13 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BRISTOL. 



35


Sejal Sukhadwala goes wine tasting around Europe 

SWANKY 

WINE BARS 

LONDON, UK 

Cork & Bottle 

Sandwiched between Soho’s 

fast-food joints and sex shops, this 

basement bar serves dozens of world 

wines with meticulous notes by the glass 

or half bottle. Its high-tech preservation 

system controls vacuum levels in bottles. 

44 46 CRANBOURN STREET, TEL: +44 (0)20 7734 7807, 

WWW.CORKANDBOTTLE.NET 

FLY TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND STANSTED) 

FROM OVER 100 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BASEL 

AND DUSSELDORF (WEEZE). VISIT 



Ely Winebar 

A relaxed, casual venue in a 

beautiful Georgian building, 

Ely has wines from all over 

the world, with an enormous 

selection by the glass. The 

Les Colombiers de Feytit 

Clinet, Pomerol 2005, from 

Bordeaux and New Zealand’s 

Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc, 

Marlborough 2009, are both 

excellent, and prices are 

extremely reasonable, too. 

22 ELY PLACE, TEL: +353 (0)676 

8986, WWW.ELYWINEBAR.IE 

FLY TO DUBLIN FROM 77 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ALMERIA 

AND NICE. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 


GENOA, ITALY 

I Tre Merli 

Antica Cantina 

A renovated traditional 

osteria, this historic cellar 

bar offers a wide selection 

of world and regional wines, 

including sweet dessert 

varieties like Su Igante 

1972 from Sardinia. The 

kitchen prepares Ligurian 

specialities, and you can also 

attend tasting events. 

26R VICO DIETRO IL CORO 

MADDALENA, TEL: +39 010 247 4095, 

WWW.ITREMERLI.IT 

FLY TO GENOA FROM ALGHERO, 

CAGLIARI AND LONDON (STANSTED). 


BELLAGIO, ITALY 

Cava Turacciolo 

This atmospheric 18th 

century cellar bar has 

an enormous wine list 

from across Italy. Try the 

Montefalco Rosso Lungarotti 

from Umbria for one, and 

don’t miss the daily tasting 

sessions of three wines from 

two different Italian regions, 

with food, led by the well 

informed staff. 

3 SALITA GENAZZINI, BELLAGIO, 

COMO, TEL: +39 031 950 975, 

WWW.CAVATURACCIOLO.IT 

FLY TO MILAN (BERGAMO) FROM 

53 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ROME 

(CIAMPINO). VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

VIENNA, AUSTRIA 

Unger und Klein 

The Viennese like their wine, 

and this contemporary bar 

has a daily menu based on 

seasons, weather and the 

mood of the day. There are 

wines from Austria, France, 

Spain and Italy, but the 

speciality is the house red, 

created in collaboration with 

respected producer Gernot 

Heinrich from Gols. 

2 GOLSDORFGASSE, 

TEL: +43 (0)15 321 323, 

WWW.UNGERUNDKLEIN.AT 

FLY TO BRATISLAVA (VIENNA) 

FROM 16 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING 

LIVERPOOL. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

THE 

DRINKERS’ 

COLUMN 

PHILIP STEIN 

WINE WAND 

It sounds like an 

improbable product, but 

leading wine experts 

and sommeliers have 

been raving about 

it – Philip Stein, the 

company renowned for 

its watches, has created 

a magic wand to aerate 

red wine within minutes. 

The device contains 

crystals and uses topsecret 

frequency-based 

technology, meaning 

you no longer have to 

wait hours to let wine 

breathe. Choose from 

two sizes: small, for 

inserting into a glass for 

2–3 minutes, or large, 

for 5 minutes in bottles. 

It doesn’t change the 

taste of th e but 

releases i 

and fl avou 

tested it a 

me, it rea 

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PUT IT TO THE TEST 

Blast off, upwind, full throttle, into a gale. It won’t make any difference. 

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Ireland, Dublin, Tel.:+353 (1) 2937920 

Greece, Athens Tel.: +302109211630 

Cyprus, Limassol Tel.: +357 77 777 113 

Italy, Milan, Tel.: +39 02 39680094 

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PHOTO © NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM 


THE BIG PICTURE 

Somewhere incredible we love from across the Ryanair network 

DO YOU HAVE A 

FAVOURITE PLACE OR 

BUILDING YOU LOVE IN A 

RYANAIR CITY? IF SO, DROP 

US AN EMAIL ON RYANAIR.ED 

@INK-PUBLISHING.COM ALONG 

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MAG.COM 

Natural History Museum, London, UK 

Known as the Cocoon, this building has to be the cleverest 

and most imposing structure of any museum of natural 

history anywhere. Opened last month to much fanfare, it’s 

part of the cutting-edge Darwin Centre — a £78 million (€86 

million) addition to London’s Natural History Museum, next 

door to the original Victorian building. 

Simply spectacular, Cocoon stands eight storeys high, 

65m long and is shaped a bit like a giant rugby ball. Visitors 

are whisked up to the top in a glass lift , then wander back 

down exploring the 3.3km of drawers and cabinets fi lled with 

plant and insect specimens with the help of virtual guides. 

They can also take part in interactive games and even view 

scientists preparing specimens and extracting DNA through 

windows into their laboratories. The Darwin Centre has loads 

more too, from zoological specimens stored in alcohol, to a 

dedicated biodiversity centre. It’s a mind-blowing, educational 

and truly magnifi cent experience. We dare you not to love it. 

CROMWELL ROAD (SOUTH KENSINGTON TUBE), TEL: +44 (0)20 7942 5000, WWW.NHM.AC.UK 

FLY TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND STANSTED) FROM OVER 100 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING DERRY, LOURDES, PALERMO AND TAMPERE. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 


39

Porcelain veneers – an alloy 

of beauty and strength 

Darius Kunčius, the dentist and the director of dentistry clinic “Neodenta“ tells us about the 

latest technology in dental restoration. 

Porcelain veneers – that are very thin, 0,3 - 0,5 mm thick porcelain plates, which cover 

the front teeth. If needed, those plates can be very thin, in such case the teeth are 

polished as little as possible. This cure is very effective and it is advisable in the case, 

when: the form and position of the front teeth in the arch is not correct; the colour of 

the front teeth has changed (non vital teeth or teeth affected by fluorosis, tetracycline); 

wide, non-aesthetic space between teeth (diastemas); the dark pigment of the teeth, which cannot 

be removed by whitening; traumas, when a part of fissured tooth needs to be restored; inadequate 

teeth height (low teeth); many non-aesthetic fillings. 

Veneer fitting procedure helps to achieve the threefold aim: to obtain the greatest possible aesthetic 

effect of tooth shape, colour and placement in dental arch; to reconstruct the hard dental tissues; to 

restore the chewing function. 

As the dentist Darius Kunčius says, in comparison with the other teeth restoration techniques, the 

porcelain veneers have indisputable advantages: porcelain bonds with enamel very well; wears out 

less than composite synthetic veneers or fillings (aesthetic filling);does not change the colour or the 

shining; less tooth tissue is being polished than while putting crowns or filling; functions 10 – 12 years, 

while the fillings function from 3 to 8 years; gingival tissue tolerates porcelain well, do not cause any 

allergies; even very dark-coloured teeth may be made a special white; aesthetic filling not always can 

hide dark teeth, as well as fillings do not save the shining. 

On purpose to achieve the maximum aesthetic result, experts recommend choosing porcelain 

veneers. This substance in the mouth characterizes with high durability, aesthetics, transparency and 

naturalness, so, the funds invested to the beauty and lasting will pay huge dividends. 

63 – 72 percent of tooth tissue have to be cut for the all tooth crown, and from 3 to 30 percent for the 

veneers. The porcelain veneers are being made individually for each patient, which makes them almost 

impossible to distinguish from the natural teeth. They are resistant to coffee, tea or smoking effect. 

8:00-20:00 I - V, Baltu pr. 49a, LT-48233, Kaunas - Lithuania 

Tel: +370 37 755075 / +370 684 21260 / info@neodenta.lt 

www.neodenta.lt 

A-5630 Bad Hofgastein | T :+43(0)6432/6100-0 | E. info@stgeorg.com 

www.stgeorg.com 

Spend your holidays in the cosy atmosphere of 

our country styled hotel, situated only at a 3 minutes 

walk from the ski-sta on. Enjoy our excellent cuisine 

and have a nice glass of wine at the fi re place. 

Relax in our spa centre - massages, shiatsu or cosme cs. 

OUR SKI-PACKAGE: 

7 days half board, welcome drink, 6 days ski ticket transfer 

from Salzburg airport. From €878 to €970 p.p. double room

Alan Cumming 

COMMENT 

Scottish stage and screen actor Alan Cumming talks travel 

“I DON’T REALLY DO HOLIDAYS, WEEKENDS, 

mini breaks or indulgent fortnights. I snatch 

days here and there, shut down and veg out. If 

I do manage to escape, I love getting away to a 

hotel where absolutely nobody can fi nd me. But 

after a week, I tend to get a bit twitchy. 

“How would a holiday that involves skiing, 

abseiling and yoga make me feel? Ha! I would 

love a holiday that encompasses all three. I’m 

not a big abseiler, but it’s one of those things 

I’ve always wanted to do. I’ve done quite a bit 

of fl ying for my job in the last few years, for 

plays and fi lms, so I’ve come to really enjoy 

a harness! Skiing and yoga are two of my 

favourite pastimes, so no horror for me there. 

“Adrenalin opportunities aside, I have three 

absolute holiday musts: 1) dog friendliness 

I’m much happier when I have my pooches 

with me; 2) good veggie food, as I’ve been in 

too many fabulous hotels where I’ve ended up 

eating chips the whole time because they don’t 

cater for non carnivores; 3) a huge bath. The 

US, where I live now, has never really caught 

on to the importance of a nice soak, so when 

I go on holiday I like to compensate for their 

shortcomings in this area. I take my iPod with 

me, too. I’m really obsessed with The Wet Spots 

at the moment they’re really dirty, yet melodic. 

“My favourite trip ever was taking a train to 

a little hotel on Loch Awe in Scotland a couple 

of years ago with my man and our dogs. Once 

there, it rained the whole time but it was just so 

magical to be in such a beautiful place, eating 

delicious food, away from it all. Plus, Honey, 

“The US, where I live now, 

has never caught on to the 

importance of a nice soak” 

my collie shepherd mix, had a little holiday 

romance with the gardener’s sheepdog! 

“I’ve always wanted to ride on the Trans 

Siberian Express. I just love trains mostly the 

idea of people not being able to get to me for 

long periods of time. I’d go with my partner, 

Grant, and my friends Sue and Andrew, because 

we would laugh from dawn ’til dusk. 

“As for hotels, Chateau Marmont in LA is my 

favourite anywhere. The Hotel du Vin in Glasgow 

is my second choice because it’s so comfy, 

grand and welcoming, and they used to have a 

sommelier called Johnnie Walker. Perfect!” 

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41

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ILLUSTRATION: SPENCER WILSON / SYNERGY ART 

I WAS 20 YEARS OLD. IT WAS DARK AND 

rainy and cold. I was behind the wheel of a 

rented minibus, on my own, trundling down 

unlit country roads in the depths of County 

Cork, en route to a cottage my family had 

rented for Christmas. I had only passed my 

driving test the week before. It was a long, 

unforgiving journey. And when I finally saw the 

twinkling lights of the cottage in the distance 

and realised I’d made it there unscathed, the 

euphoria and sense of self congratulation 

overwhelmed me. I screeched to a halt in the 

darkness, leapt out of the bus and ran towards 

the warm, yuletide welcome of my loved ones. 

It wasn’t until the next morning that I realised 

that, in my haste, I had left the bulky automobile 

parked in the middle of a fi eld. By the time I 

returned to it to fetch my bags, the wheels had 

sunk into the mud. It wouldn’t budge. Hertz 

were not going to be happy about this. 

I called the owner of our cottage, a farmer 

from up the road. “Don’t suppose you’ve got 

anything that could help pull a bus out a field, 

have you?” I chirped. 

“We’ve got a big, strong cow,” he seemed to 

say in an accent as thick as Irish stew. 

“A big strong cow, you say? Perfect,” I said, 

chuckling with excitement. “I’ll meet you and 

this magnificent beast in the upper field in an 

hour. Bring a rope!” Well I never! 

“Guess what kids?” I cried out to my 

young nieces and nephews. “The farmer is 

bringing a big prize winning cow round here 

to pull the van out of the field. Who wants to 

come and watch?” 

“Meeee, Meeee!” they cried in excitement 

COMMENT 

Sam Delaney has something to declare 

at the prospect of seeing such a bovine 

spectacle. And so two hours later I found 

myself standing in the middle of a freezing 

cold field, surrounded by expectant 

children, watching the farmer tow the bus 

out of the mud. 

But he was using a Range Rover, not a 

cow. There was no cow. “What’s this?” I 

asked, horrified as the disappointed children 

“We’ve got a big, strong cow,” he seemed to say in an accent as thick as Irish stew 

began to cry. “This is the cow!” said the 

farmer. By which I assumed he actually 

meant “car”. What can I say? The Cork 

accent was simply indecipherable to my 

useless cockney ears. At least the bus was 

saved. But my nieces and nephews have 

never trusted me since. 

FLY TO CORK FROM DUBLIN, LIVERPOOL AND LONDON 

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43

COMMENT 

“Trust me, I’ve been there,” says Zoe Williams 

IN BRITAIN, EVERY YEAR ON 5 NOVEMBER 

we have Bonfi re Night, celebrating political 

resistance. Wait, nope, what am I talking 

about? It’s not a mark of respect for Guy 

Fawkes, it’s there simply to note the date of 

his transgression, and celebrate the swift and 

angry authoritarian response. I don’t know 

what kind of Chinese whispers turned this into 

an opportunity for fi reworks you’d think it 

would be more appropriate to mark the date 

by all behaving incredibly well, in accordance 

with the laws and customs of our country. We 

could observe the proper speed limit and return 

library books all day, then in the evening gather 

and eat fi ve portions of fruit and vegetables in 

an all night frenzy of orgiastic obedience. 

At about the same time in Italy, in a town 

near Rome, they have a pre Christmas festival 

of their own, Festa del Cornuto for the 

mockery of anyone who has been cuckolded 

during the year. They wear triangle hats and 

eat Cornettos, and people who are already in 

unbearable psychic pain get to parade their 

own humiliation up and down the streets they 

were raised in. This is another counter intuitive 

festival. Surely, as communities, we spend 

all year mocking the sad sack spouses of the 

promiscuous? If we’re going to choose a figure 

of fun as a one off event, why can’t it be the 

people who aren’t mocked the rest of the year, 

the popular people, maybe even the people 

who are cheating? That would make sense, 

and it would also make more sense of the 

fireworks. They could be, like, metaphors for 

domestic discord. 

Any more than five minutes spent 

considering the winter festivals of the Northern 

Hemisphere, and you suddenly notice that 

they are all totally nonsensical. In the port of 

Calvi in Corsica, by the way, they celebrate 

the fact that it’s quite windy with a festival of 

wind. In the US, the incredible industry they’ve 

built up around Halloween is all that’s standing 

between them and bankruptcy. There’s 

nothing remotely festive about any of this. 

Great! Someone’s tried to blow up our seat 

of government. Let’s have a party! Mate, you 

think that’s good news? My husband is having 

it away with my second cousin. Well, I will see 

your broken marriage, and raise you one ghost. 

I have a ghost in my garage! 

The ex smoker in me can make sense of all 

this: these aren’t occasions for joy, they are 

excuses for it. Just as, when you go through that 

The ex-smoker in me can make sense of all this: these aren’t occasions for joy 


hideous twilight of self denial where you only 

smoke with a drink, you will fi nd a million and one 

reasons to go for a drink. When the dark nights of 

winter set in, that’s what whole cultures become 

desperate fun seekers looking for any excuse, 

doesn’t matter how rubbish. 

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RYANAIR NETWORK. VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM 

ILLUSTRATION: TOM PERCIVAL / ADVOCATE ART

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MARSEILLE 

47 CITYLENS / 48 CITYSOUL / 53 CITYMAP / 54 CITYCENTS / 56 CITYLIVES 

CITY 

LENS 

Vallon des Auff es, the charming little sister 

harbour of Marseille’s Vieux Port. Romantic 

and beautiful, with exquisite seafood 

restaurants, it sums up this historic area, 

which we explored for our guide this 

month — turn over to fi nd out more. 

Plus, see more pics of Vallon des 

Auff es in our fi sher-girl fashion 

shoot on page 58.

CITY 

SOUL 

MARSEILLE 

THE SECOND CITY OF FRANCE, AND ITS 

oldest founded under the Greeks in 600BC 

it’s no wonder Marseille has made such a 

signifi cant mark on the nation. For over 2,000 

years, people, goods, treasure, spices and stories 

have fl owed into the city from afar, bringing the 

world to France. Today, Marseille remains the 

biggest commercial port in the country and one 

of its most popular tourist destinations. And the 

heart of the city is the Vieux Port (“Old Port”). 

Filled with small skiffs and tourist ferries, the 

area is more of a throwback to the past than the 

massive commercial harbour across town, and 

the best place to start off is by the water’s edge 

at Le Quai des Belges (10 ON MAP). Bustling with 

the combined mass of locals getting on with 

their lives and tourists temporarily escaping 

theirs, the scene is imbued with the sharp smell 

of sea salt and freshly caught fi sh. 

This is also your springboard to the nearby 

islands. Frioul If Express (tel: +33 (0)49 146 

5465, www.frioul if express.com) will take you 

to the Frioul archipelago, where the Château 


d’If (8 ON MAP) is located. A former prison, 

it was the setting for Alexandre Dumas’ The 

Count of Monte Cristo. Trips cost €10 €15 and 

depart at various times daily. To visit the nearby 

Calanques, stunning white cliffed inlets, you can 

book through Icard Maritime (tel: +33 (0)49 133 

0329, www.visite des calanques.com). 

Bouillabaisse is a 

decadent seafood feast 

that is eaten gradually 

Flanking the port itself are the Quai du Port on 

the north side and the Quai de Rive Neuve on the 

south. Along Quai du Port are the more tourist 

oriented venues. Soak up some local fl avour at 

La Maison du Pastis (6 ON MAP), tucked into the 

shady colonnades. Pastis is a consummately 

French drink: aniseed fl avoured and highly 

alcoholic. Once you’ve diluted it with a little water, 

your enjoyment of it will very much depend on 

your enjoyment of aniseed but be sure to drop 

in here for a taste or to pick up a bottle. 

Along this stretch are endless cafés, 

restaurants and shops, making an excellent 

corridor to retreat to for a coffee and some retail 

therapy. However, right by the waterfront is a 

stand out venue, Le Marseillois (14 ON MAP). A 

large schooner, complete with tall masts and 

tangled rigging, it originally sailed the Med as a 

trading ship. Today, it serves up an abundance 

of fi sh dishes, as you are gently cradled and 

rocked by the water beneath. It may seem like a 

gimmick, but this is a thoroughly enjoyable and 

highly recommended experience. 

On the other side of the harbour is the 

Quai de Rive Neuve, with its string of terrace 

cafés and restaurants, such as Radisson Blu’s 

multicultural cuisine at Solaris (3 ON MAP), and 

Chez Maurice Brun (18 Quai de Rive Neuve,

tel: +33 (0)49 133 3538, www.mauricebrun.fr), 

offering traditional Provençal cooking. Later 

on, check out the neon eclecticism of trendy 

bar Exit Café (20 ON MAP). 

Slip down the streets perpendicular to 

Quai de Rive Neuve and you find yourself in a 

maze of busy side streets with Place Thiars at 

the centre. It’s a gastronomical extravaganza 

here, with restaurants of all kinds battling for 

customers. Naming itself after its address, 

Le 29 Place aux Huiles (12 ON MAP) is a 

particular highlight, with an encyclopaedia 

of Provence and Vallée du Rhône wines. 

Known as a “restaurant caviste” (wine 

merchant restaurant), the array of wines is 

complemented well by a varied and reasonably 

priced menu. 

Next door, Sri Ganesh (25 Place aux Huiles, 

tel: +33 (0)49 133 0915, www.sriganesh.fr) 

serves Indian food in fragrant surroundings, 

while Chez Paul (23 Rue Saint Saëns, tel: +33 

(0)49 133 0743) straddles the world, with 

everything from sushi to Mediterranean food. 

For an impressive venue, Les Arcenaulx (7 ON 

MAP) is exactly what a restaurant/bookshop 

should be: dignifi ed stone walls, beautiful books 

to browse and the air of a guarded secret. 

Another gem is La Trilogie des Cépages 

(13 ON MAP). While not exactly hidden, it does 

manage to keep a modest profi le down Rue 

de la Paix. In its tiny kitchen, three chefs 

work together with tools both old and new 

(molecular!) to the delight of the clientele. Here, 

the proprietors value intimacy and warmth 

the tables are mostly for couples, and many a 

marriage proposal has apparently been made 

here. The owners also prefer to make their 

CITYFOCUS MARSEILLE 

Ed Chamberlin explores the historic Vieux Port area of the city 

name bouche à oreille (“by word of mouth”), 

and that’s my word of mouth to you. 

But of all Marseille’s gastronomical delights, 

bouillabaisse is the dish that no visit would be 

complete without. Meaning roughly to “boil 

and simmer”, the bouillabaisse is a decadent 

seafood feast that is eaten gradually. It begins 

with a highly spiced, red fish soup, into which 

you dunk croutons spread with rouille, a 

saffron and chilli spread. No sooner have 

you begun the soup, than a platter of seafood 

arrives: crab, lobster, mussels, turbot, mullet 

and potatoes (well, you have to have some 

veg in there!). Following that you fill, dunk, sup 

and refill your bowl until you have finished all 

you can. The best places to eat bouillabaisse 

are Miramar (15 ON MAP), who use www. 

bouillabaisse.com as their web address, and 

Chez Fonfon (11 ON MAP). 

Chez Fonfon is located in the delightful Vallon 

des Auffes, a cute miniature version of the Vieux 

Port (SEE OUR FASHION SHOOT, PAGE 58). This 

tiny harbour is also home to the excellent Chez 

Land ahoy! 

Jeannot (129 Vallon des Auffes, tel: +33 (0)49 

152 1128, www.pizzeriachezjeannot.com). While Vallon des Auffes 

both serve excellent seafood, Chez Fonfon is 

your stop for bouillabaisse and Jeannot’s your 

stop for pizza both boasting a wonderfully 

romantic setting, especially at twilight. 

Picturesque harbour 

View from the Sofi tel 

Tucking in at Chez Fonfon 

Showing off the catch of 

the day on the Quai des Belges 

TAKE TO 

THE HILLS 

Marseille’s surrounding 

countryside is well worth 

exploring, so a city visit 

should involve striking 

out a bit into Provence. 

This is a region of 

picturesque French 

towns, vineyards and 

a breathtaking natural 

landscape. Highlights 

include the exquisite 

charm of towns such as 

Aix-en-Provence, and 

Mont Sainte Victoire, 

which inspired some of 

Paul Cézanne’s most 

famous works. Then you 

have the Calanques, 

Cassis and Arles – the 

latter with its Unescolisted 

Roman ruins and a 

historical connection to 

Vincent Van Gogh, who 

immortalised it in so 

many ways. 

Elsewhere, the 

“Perched Villages of the 

Luberon” make for a 

fascinating tour, taking 

in Oppède-le-Vieux, a 

village carved into the 

rock face, the fortress 

village of Ménerbes, 

Les Baux-de-Provence 

and Gordes, most of 

which are members of 

“Les Plus Beaux Villages 

de France”, a kind of 

France-centric Unesco 

designation. 

For a comprehensive 

list of excursions 

and activities, online 

travel resource Viator 

– a leading source 

for researching and 

booking trips in more 

than 450 destinations 

worldwide – has a wide 

variety on its books. 

FOR MORE DETAILS, 

VISIT WWW.VIATOR.COM. FOR 

TRANSFER FROM MARSEILLE 

PROVENCE MP2 AIRPORT, 

VISIT WWW.CARANDCO.FR 


49


After dinner, walk back towards the Vieux 

Port down Corniche du Président John 

Fitzgerald Kennedy, past the Plage des Catalans 

round onto Boulevard Charles Livon. Here you 

will see Marseille’s hotel to beat ’em all: the 

Sofi tel (1 ON MAP). Recently refurbished, this 

hotel is leagues ahead of its competitors in 

terms of style, comfort and service. 

The maritime theme that characterises 

the city itself prevails throughout, from the 

array of blues decorating the reception and 

main bar, to the beautiful glass sculptures of 

sea creatures in the foyer and a boat shaped 

restaurant, Les Trois Forts (incidentally, once 

of the best in town). The rooms have all sorts 

of lovely touches: rainforest showers with 

additional shower nozzles down the walls, 

two person baths, and mini conference 

rooms and all mod cons in the larger suites. 


The Sofi tel also boasts the new and ultra 

deluxe So Spa, complete with sauna, hammam, 

massage facilities and a range of cosmetic 

products provided by Parisian company 

Carita. To truly unwind after a long day, there is 

nowhere better. 

Le Trolleybus is the 

Vieux Port’s most 

idiosyncratic venue 

Just across the road from the Sofitel is 

another great piece of Marseillaise hospitality: 

the New Hotel of Marseille (2 ON MAP). A cuter 

and quirkier place to bed down, it also boasts a 

top quality eatery, Victor Café (tel: +33 (0)48 

800 4600, www.victorcafemarseille.com). 

Hip harbour 

View from the corniche out 

to the Mediterranean 

The Sofi tel shows off some 

smart interior design 

Beach volleyball on Plage 

des Catalans 

Compared with other areas of Marseille, 

the Vieux Port is somewhat subdued at night 

but venues that keep things exciting into the 

early hours include Le Pelle Mêle (16 ON MAP), 

with live jazz; Le 504 (18 ON MAP) a Middle 

Eastern/African restaurant by day and decadent 

Moroccan lounge by night; and Le Circus (19 ON 

MAP), a salsa disco. 

Le Trolleybus (17 ON MAP) is the Vieux Port’s 

most idiosyncratic venue, built into an old 

munitions storage space and deliciously dingy 

with its vaulted brick walls. Bright and exciting, 

it’s a buzzing maze of tunnels that will keep 

you entertained until the fishermen return to 

start another day. 

FLY TO MARSEILLE PROVENCE MP2 FROM 28 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING AGADIR, BIARRITZ, EINDHOVEN, 

MANCHESTER, OSLO (TORP), PARIS (BEAUVAIS), PORTO 

AND STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA). VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM

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Cologne 

Christmas 

Market 

20 November - 23 December 

Southbank Centre / The London Eye 

Along the Queen’s Walk between Southbank Centre and The London Eye there will be 

numerous chalets offering traditional handcraft, unique gifts and culinary specialities. 

Greenford, London 

UB6 9QX, UK 

Tel: +44-208-5752184 

Fax: +44-208-5755836 

Come and celebrate the Yuletide with us!

Opens Friday 30th October 2009 

Using real human specimens, 

painstakingly prepared 

and respectfully displayed. 

An Exhibition of Real Human Bodies 

For tickets call: 0844 338 8000 

or: www.bodiesbirmingham.co.uk 

Custard Factory, Gibb Street, 

Digbeth, Birmingham B9 4AA 

LANZAPLAYA 

Calle Mejico Nº 2, 35510 Puerto del Carmen Lanzarote 

Tel: 0034 928 510 161 | Fax: 00 34 928 511 057 

Lanzaplaya is located in the second front beach line in 

the central area of Puerto del Carmen, next to the main 

commercial and entertainment centres. 

LANZASUR CLUB 

Avenida de Gran Canaria, S/N 35700 Playa Blanca Yaiza 

Tel: 0034 928 517 533 | Fax: 0034 928 517 689 

Lanzasur is located in the south area of Lanzarote, 

in the second beach line of the fi shing village of Playa Blanca, 

in front of the islands of Fuerteventura and Lobos and 

only few km away from the Natural Park of the Ajaches, 

better known as Papagayo Beach. 

Dr Wiesław Frankowski 

DENTAL IMPLANTOLOGY CLINIC 

Our 25 years of experience, guarantee of your smile 

We offer a wide range of dental treatments like: 

• implantology 

• conservative and aesthetic dentistry (teeth whitening) 

• endodontics 

• dental surgery 

• prosthetics 

• periodontics 

• hygiene and prophylaxis 

We give diagnosis and undertake the planning of effective treatment as well. 

My clinic is authorized by Nobel Biocare company. As an implantologist I 

belong to EUROPEAN ASSOCIATION for OSSEOINTEGRATION EAO. 20 years of 

my experience is supported by continuous education in Poland and abroad 

(Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Sweden and USA). We work with dental team- 

dentists, dental assistants, dental hygienists and technicians. Such team work 

allows us to shorten the duration of treatment and achieve a perfect fi nal 

result at the same time. Up-to-date equipment, latest technologies and close 

co-operation with a prosthetic technician working in our clinic provide top 

quality treatment. 

The pleasure of our clients when they leave our clinic is our best award. 

It is also the best publicity we can ask for. 

Help in accommodation and stay organized on request. 

DENTAL IMPLANTOLOGY CLINIC 

ul.Subisława 19 

80-354 GDANSK-ŻABIANKA 

Poland 

Tel/Fax: +4858 622 06 26 

www.frankowski.pl 

BUNGALOWS LOS GIRASOLES 

Avenida Sargentos Provisionales, 25. Playa Del Inglés, 35100 

Tel: 00 34 928 760 822 | Fax: 00 34 928 771 673 

Set in attractive gardens in Gran Canaria, the Bungalows 

Los Girasoles are a quieter alternative to the hectic pace 

of Playa del Inglés. Boasting their own small front garden, 

the bungalows are fully renovated and well equipped in a 

relaxed atmosphere. 

canary islands... discover a dream by the ocean 

www.relaxia.net

MAP ILLUSTRATION: ACUTEGRAPHICS.CO.UK 

Mediterranean Sea 

11 

08 

CITY 

MAP 

MARSEILLE 

RUE DES CATALANS 

02 

AVENUE PASTEUR 

01 

Saint-Laurent 

Church 

A50 

Fort St Nicolas 

AVENUE DE LA CORSE 

RUE SAUVEUR TOBELEM 

Abbaye St Victor 

QUAI DU PORT 

03 

QUAI DE RIVE NEUVE 

MARSEILLE 

RUE SAINTE 

A50 

06 

17 

Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde 

09 

14 

Vieux Port 

HOTELS CULTURE/SHOPS RESTAURANTS BARS 

1 / SOFITEL 

36 Boulevard Charles Livon, tel: +33 

(0)49 115 5900, WWW.SOFITEL.COM 

2 / NEW HOTEL OF MARSEILLE 

71 Boulevard Charles Livon, 

tel: +33 (0)49 131 5315, 

WWW.NEWHOTELOFMARSEILLE.COM 

3 / RADISSON BLU 

38–40 Quai de Rive Neuve, 

tel: +33 (0)48 892 1950, 

WWW.RADISSONBLU.FR 

4 / EUROPE HOTEL 

12 Rue de Beauvau, tel: +33 (0)49 133 

6564, WWW.EUROPE-HOTEL.FR 

5 / LA RESIDENCE DU VIEUX PORT 

18 Quai du Port, tel: +33 (0)49 191 9122, 

WWW.HOTELMARSEILLE.COM 

6 / LA MAISON DU PASTIS 

108 Quai du Port, 

tel: +33 (0)49 190 8677, 

WWW.LAMAISONDUPASTIS.COM 

7 / LES ARCENAULX 

25 Cours Estienne d’Orves, 

tel: +33 (0)49 159 8030, 

WWW.LES-ARCENAULX.COM 

8 / CHATEAU D’IF 

tel: +33 (0)49 159 0230, 

WWW.IF.MONUMENTS-NATIONAUX.FR 

9 / PLACE AUX HUILES 

2 Place Daviel, 

tel: +33 (0)49 190 0555 

10 / QUAI DES BELGES MARKET 

Quai des Belges, 

daily 8am–1pm 


Find what you need around the Vieux Port with our handy map 

11 / CHEZ FONFON 

140 Vallon des Auffes, tel: +33 (0)49 

152 1438, WWW.CHEZ-FONFON.COM 

12 / LE 29 PLACE AUX HUILES 

29 Place aux Huiles, 

tel: +33 (0)49 133 2644, 

WWW.29PLACEAUXHUILES.COM 

13 / LA TRILOGIE DES CEPAGES 

35 Rue de la Paix, 

tel: +33 (0)49 133 9603, 

WWW.TRILOGIEDESCEPAGES.COM 

14 / LE MARSEILLOIS 

3 Quai du Port, tel: +33 (0)49 190 

7252, WWW.LEMARSEILLOIS.COM 

15 / RESTAURANT MIRAMAR 

12 Quai du Port, tel: +33 (0)49 191 

1040, WWW.BOUILLABAISSE.COM 

19 

16 

GRAND RUE 

18 

05 

20 

12 07 

13 

Les Caves de L’Abbaye 

BOULEVARD NOTRE DAME 

16 / LE PELLE MELE 


tel: +33 (0)49 154 8526 

15 

10 

Tourist 

Info 

i 

RUE DE BRETEUIL 

A50 

04 

150 metres 

17 / LE TROLLEYBUS 

24 Quai de Rive Neuve, tel: +33 (0)49 

154 3045, WWW.LETROLLEY.COM 

18 / LE 504 


tel: +33 (0)49 133 5774 

19 / LE CIRCUS 

5 Rue Chantier, 

tel: +33 (0)49 133 7722, 

WWW.LECIRCUS.FR 

20 / L’EXIT CAFE 

12 Quai de Rive Neuve, 

tel: +33 (0)49 154 2943, 

WWW.NEWEXIT.SKYROCK.COM 


53


Ed Chamberlin hit the streets of Marseille with €100 and came back with… 

1 / PASTIS 

The quintessential 

Marseillaise drink, this 

aniseed liqueur is about 45% 

alcohol, but diluted with water 

before serving to make a 

sweet aperitif. You really can’t 

visit the city without giving it 

a go. Pick up a bottle from La 

Maison du Pastis (108 Quai du 

Port, tel: +33 (0)49 190 8677, 

www.lamaisondupastis.com). 

€12 

1 


2 / OLD PERRIER POSTER 

The tasteful designs of 

commercial posters from 

decades ago put many 

of today’s eye assaulting 

ads to shame. Using very 

few colours, this advert for 

Perrier which is produced 

not far from Marseille is 

beautiful and effective. You 

can fi nd a range of posters at 

local street markets. 

€15 

CITY 

CENTS 

MARSEILLE 

2 

3 / NAVETTES 

No part of France would be 

complete without its own 

bit of pâtisserie! These 

nice, crunchy biscuits are 

fl avoured with orange 

blossom, and modelled on a 

small boat called a barque. 

Buy some at Biscuiterie José 

Orsoni (7 Boulevard Botinelly, 

tel: +33 (0)49 134 8703, 

www.biscuiterie orsoni.com). 

€3 

3 

4 / SAVON DE MARSEILLE 

Marseille’s signature toiletry 

has been produced in the 

area for at least 600 years. 

Made with olive oil, water 

from the Mediterranean, 

soda ash and lye, the result 

is a prestigious addition to 

anyone’s bathroom. Get some 

at Savonnerie Marseillaise de 

la Licorne (34 Cours Julien, 

tel: +33 (0)49 612 0091). 

€3.60 

4 

5 / MEKANIK KANTATIK 

Experimental musician 

Nicolas Cante is better 

known as Mekanik Kantatik, 

whose music consists of 

the sounds of the piano 

dismantled and reassembled 

in unexpected confi gurations, 

with a layer of electronic 

sounds on top. It is beautiful, 

strange and unique (www. 

dfragmentmusic.com). 

€15 

5

6 / MARSEILLOTES 

Marseille’s little treat for 

sweet tooths are delicious 

chunks of nougat, covered 

in a layer of chocolate and 

fl avoured with orange, honey 

and aniseed. The name 

is a merging of the words 

“Marseille” and “papillote” 

(parcel, in cookery). So buy a 

pack of Marseille parcels for 

someone you love. 

€6 

6 

7 / NOTRE-DAME DE LA 

GARDE FIGURINE 

Situated at the highest point 

of Marseille, the Notre Dame 

de la Garde or La Bonne 

Mère is visible from almost 

anywhere in the city. The 

basilica topped with a statue 

of Mary cradling Jesus is a 

logo of sorts for the city, and 

these miniature fi gurines are 

highly popular. 

€8 

7 

8 / LAVENDER 

Provençal chefs have been 

using lavender to add a 

gently fl oral, sweet fl avour 

to dishes for centuries. If 

you’re feeling a bit creative, 

you can even cover the 

herb in sugar and use it to 

decorate cakes. We sniffed 

some out at Place aux 

Huiles (2 Place Daviel, tel: 

+33 (0)49 190 0555). 

€4.50 

8 

9 / CIGALE 

The ceramic cicada has 

been part of the Provençal 

visual landscape since 

1895, when it was created 

by a potter inspired by 

the poetry of French 

entomologist Jean Henri 

Fabre. Today it is considered 

to be good luck to hang one 

outside your front door at a 

slight angle. 

€9.50 

9 

10 / LA CAGOLE & 

MACH’O BOBO 

Some things have to come 

in couples, and that’s the 

case with these Marseillaise 

beers. The word “cagole” 

refers to a Marseillaise 

lady with, shall we say, an 

outgoing personality, while 

Mach’o Bobo is her perfect 

partner: a strong, confi dent 

bourgeois bohemian. 

€2.50 each 

10 


PHOTOGRAPHY: WWW.PIXELEYESPHOTOGRAPHY.CO.UK 

55


We talk to Jérémie Mension, co-founder of Marseille-based record label DFragment Music 

CITY 

LIVES 

MARSEILLE 


“I AM ORIGINALLY FROM PARIS, AND CAME 

to Marseille with my family fi ve years ago. It 

was not specifi cally for work: I came to strike 

a balance between my family, my job and my 

own pleasure. In Marseille, you can be an ‘actor’, 

while in Paris you are a ‘spectator’ of everything. 

“I began DFragment Music with Julien Berlioz 

two years ago, and since then we created a 

cultural co operation with two other labels, IOT 

and DTC records, because there are plenty of 

things to do in Marseille with great artists. 

“We are not a style of music. The definition 

of ‘defragment’ is when you disassociate some 

elements of something and reassemble them 

with a new meaning that’s what we try to 

do with this label. We have a pianist (Mekanik 

Kantatik, see City Cents, page 54) who uses all 

the elements of the piano to make new music 

he drums on it with his hands and processes 

it with the computer. The same goes for Sam 

Karpienia, who uses traditional Mediterranean 

instruments to make world music. He distorts 

the sense of the instruments to make new 

sounds, to try to make a new language. 

“We can do that in Marseille because we are 

at the crossroads of a lot of history. Marseille 

strives to be a modern city, with the tradition 

of the Mediterranean’s past. It is a good bridge 

towards the future, and is a very interesting 

place to be creative. In 2013, Marseille is 

European Capital of Culture, so there is funding 

for cultural projects. It is a sign of the times 

that things are moving over here. 

“During these two years, we have continued 

“Life is cheaper here, and 

you can have pleasure 

with everything” 

without refl ection about our aesthetic. I can’t 

say that it’s Marseillaise music; it’s music from 

everywhere you can have Occitan music, you 

can have piano, everything. 

“Life is cheaper here, and you can have 

pleasure with everything. You walk around and 

see such wonderful things, like the sea, and in 

the city a particular kind of architecture. You 

have big new constructions and change every 

day, and you can participate in this change 

that is why we wanted to be in Marseille.” 

MEKANIK KANTATIK’S ALBUM SOUNDS… FROM 

MY PIANO AND SAM KARPIENIA’S ALBUM EXTATIC 

MALANCONI ARE OUT NOW. FOR MORE DETAILS, VISIT 

WWW.DFRAGMENTMUSIC.COM 

FLY TO MARSEILLE PROVENCE MP2 FROM 28 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BASEL, MALAGA AND TANGIER. 

VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM

RD 453, 13280 Raphele Les Arles 

Tel: +(33) 4.90.98.48.06 

E-mail: contact@labienheureuse.com 

www.labienheureuse.com 

CAMPING DE LA BIENHEUREUSE 

DISCOVER the French 

camping site with the English 

accent, in the heart of the 

Camargue, by visiting our very 

happy (Bienheureuse) camp site 

where you can relax or explore 

the magnifi cent countryside and 

the ancient Roman town of Arles. 

Rent one of our mobile homes or 

an emplacement for a caravan, 

camping car or tent.

FRENCH FASHION 


FLY TO MARSEILLE MP2 FROM 28 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BIRMINGHAM | CAGLIARI | EINDHOVEN | LILLE | LONDON (STANSTED AND GATWICK) 

NAUTICALBUTNICE

| VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION + SEE OUR ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 103 FOR ALL RYANAIR DESTINATIONS 



59

FRENCH FASHION FLY TO MARSEILLE MP2 FROM 28 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING LONDON (STANSTED AND GATWICK) | MADRID | OSLO (TORP) | PORTO 


| STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA) | TANGIER | TOURS | VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION 

OPENING SPREAD: 

Black Jumpsuit, €245 

AGNES B; Red Socks, 

price on request, 

JONATHAN ASTON; 

Rockett Deck Shoes, 

€248, BEATRIX ONG; 

Blue Boat Hat, HANNAH 

READ BALDREY (availab 

on request). 

OPPOSITE PAGE: 

Oversized Blazer, €300 

JEAN PIERRE BRAGANZA; 

Biba Chunky Knit 

Scarf, €65, Biba Mits, 

€35, both from AGNES B 

Original Tall Wellington’s 

in White, €115, HUNTER; 

Yellow Net Headpiece, 

HANNAH READ BALDREY 

(available on request). 

THIS PAGE: 

Long Giger Print Dress, 

€480, JEAN PIERRE 

BRAGANZA ; Red Over the 

Knee Socks, price on 

request, JONATHAN ASTON; 

Fayette Navy Ponyskin 

Heels, €344, BEATRIX 

ONG; Cream Lace 

Bib Necklace, €220, 

MERLE O’GRADY; Starfi sh 

Headpiece, HANNAH READ 

BALDREY (available on 

request). 



61

FRENCH FASHION FLY TO MARSEILLE MP2 FROM 28 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING AGADIR | BASEL | BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) | FEZ | GLASGOW (PRESTWICK) 


| GOTHENBURG CITY | LILLE | LONDON (GATWICK & STANSTED) | VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION 

OPPOSITE PAGE: 

Tuxedo Jumpsuit, €43 

TIBI; Hand-knitted 

Marino Wool Cardigan 

€395, JEAN PIERRE 

BRAGANZA ; Maggie Kick 

Flare Heel Shoes, €41 

BEATRIX ONG; Black Lac 

Bib Necklace, €220, 

MERLE O’GRADY; Crab 

Head Piece, HANNAH 

READ BALDREY (availabl 

on request) 

THIS PAGE: 

Red Wool Jacket, €330, 

Pleated Shorts, €140, bo 

from PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND 

Striped T-Shirt, €70, 

Braces €55, both from 

AGNES B; Extra Long Cream 

Cashmere Socks, price o 

request, JONATHAN ASTON 

Straw Hat (stylist’s own) 

Original Tall Wellington’s 

n Red, €115, HUNTER; 

Rings, €85 each, DISAYA 

@ KABIRI. 

STOCKISTS: 

WWW.AGNESB.COM 

WWW.JONATHANASTONUSA.COM 

WWW.BEATRIXONG.COM 

WWW.SELFRIDGES.COM 

WWW.HUNTER-BOOT.COM 

WWW.MERLEOGRADY.COM 

WWW.HARRODS.COM 

WWW.HANNAHREADALDREY. 

BLOGSPOT.COM 

WWW.PRINGLEOFSCOTLAND.COM 

WWW.KABIRI.CO.UK 

PHOTOGRAPHER Tiffany Mumford 

WWW.TIFFANYMUMFORD.COM 

PHOTO DIRECTOR Helen Cathcart 

ART DIRECTION Julia Murray 

STYLIST Hannah Read-Baldrey 

HAIR & MAKE-UP Carolyn Wren @ LHA 

using Paul Mitchell & Mac 

PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Alix 

Mumford 

RETOUCHING Katherine Millichope 

@ myretoucher.co.uk 

MODEL Scarlett Alicia Evans @ Select 

SPECIAL THANKS TO Gatick Express 

WWW.GATWICKEXPRESS.COM 


FOR MORE 

INFO ON 

MARSEILLE’S 

VIEUX PORT SEE 

OUR CITYFOCUS 

STARTING ON 

PAGE 47 


63

SKI SPECIAL 


FOR DETAILS OF ALL SKI DESTINATIONS, VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM + CHECK OUT OUR ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 103 

RYANAIR MAG 

SEASON 

PREVIEW SPECIAL 

Can’t wait for your next snow fi x? Sit 

back and get ready to plan your trip, 

as Skiing Europe author Matt Barr 

rounds up the best options for an 

action-packed season ahead

SKI SPECIAL 

The mercury is falling, the days 

are shortening and becoming 

crisper, you’ve fl ung the 

fl ip-fl ops to the back of the 

cupboard for another year and 

dug out the scarf and gloves. It can only 

mean one thing – winter is on the way. 

For the skier and snowboarder it’s the 

most exciting time of the year, as thoughts 

turn towards a prized two weeks in the 

mountains – and the powder turns and shots 

of toffee vodka that help warm things up a 

little during the bleaker months. 

Still, with more choice than ever out there, 

how do you narrow it down? Which are the 

best destinations for families? Where should 

powder hounds go for their fi x? What about 

boutique resorts? Extreme freaks? Hell, what 

should the smart mountain user be wearing? 

Just read on… 



65

SKI SPECIAL 

Best Early Season 

Powder Resorts 

TIGNES, FRANCE 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: Grenoble 

TOWN: Sister resort to Val d’Isère, 

but with more of an emphasis on 

skiing than hard partying, Tignes 

is split between Val Claret, Le Lac 

and Le Lavachet. 

MOUNTAIN: Tignes is a highaltitude 

resort, with the Grande 

Motte glacier open almost 

all-year round and the lift system 

topping out at a hefty 3,456m. 

As such, it gets some great early 


season powder but can be a little 

dangerous. Book a guide at www. 

dragonlodge.com if you’re not 

confi dent going solo. 

WWW.TIGNES.NET 

FLY TO GRENOBLE FROM BIRMINGHAM, 

DUBLIN, EDINBURGH, LIVERPOOL, LONDON 

(STANSTED) AND STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA). 

ANDERMATT, SWITZERLAND 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: Basel 

TOWN: Tiny Andermatt is real 

Heidi country, a small village 

wedged high in the Swiss Alps. 

It has long been popular with 

expert skiers but relatively 

unknown to the mainstream 

market. A new development is 

set to change that, so head there 

now before the secret is truly out. 

MOUNTAIN: As Skiing Europe 

co-author Gabriella Le Breton 

puts it: “Andermatt gets dumped 

on. Brilliant.” There are three 

mountains here: Gemsstock, 

Nätschen and Winterhorn. From 

the top of Gemsstock, take the 

famous Bernhard Russi-designed 

TIGNES IS A HIGH-ALTITUDE 

RESORT, WITH THE LIFT 

TOPPING OUT AT 3,456M 

black run down two glaciers and 

into some great terrain. As ever 

in the high mountains, a guide is 

recommended. 

WWW.ANDERMATT.CH 

FLY TO BASEL FROM ALICANTE, CAGLIARI, 

LONDON (STANSTED), MARSEILLE PROVENCE 

MP2, PORTO AND STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA). 

ZUGSPITZE, GERMANY 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: Memmingen 

(Munich West) 

TOWN: Stay in nearby Garmisch- 

Partenkirchen, a classic Bavarian 

spa town with an international 

fl avour thanks to the proximity of 

a US military base. It’s completely 

beautiful and more of a Chamonixstyle 

town than a purpose-built 

resort such as Tignes. 

MOUNTAIN: Although there are 

fi ve areas near Garmisch, head 

to Zugspitze, the highest peak in 

Germany. A lack of trees and rocks 

make it perfect for early season 

skiing, and with it being the highest 

spot you can fi nd brilliant snow in 

the middle of November. 

WWW.ZUGSPITZE.DE 

FLY TO MEMMINGEN (MUNICH WEST) FROM 

ALGHERO (SARDINIA), ALICANTE, BARCELONA 

(GIRONA AND REUS), BREMEN, DUBLIN, 

EDINBURGH, LONDON (STANSTED), PISA 

(FLORENCE) AND STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA). 

LECH/ZURS, AUSTRIA 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: Friedrichshafen 

TOWN: Forget Lech and Zürs’ 

much-vaunted exclusivity and 

concentrate on the brilliant skiing. 

True, there are six fi ve-star and 

40 four-star hotels here, as well as 

more award-winning restaurants 

than any other Austrian village, but 

that mountain is a great leveller. 

MOUNTAIN: This place gets some 

of the highest snowfalls in Europe, 

with nearby Warth-Schröcken 

netting the biggest average fall 

in the Alps. Yet, nobody has ever 

heard of it so the snow lasts for 

days. Experts may have just found 

their new favourite resort. 

WWW.LECH ZUERS.AT 

FLY TO FRIEDRICHSHAFEN FROM 

ALICANTE AND LONDON (STANSTED).

MUST- 

HAVE ITEM 

#1 

BURTON HERO 

SNOWBOARD 

Equally adept in the fun 

park or on the piste, the 

Hero makes a perfect allrounder 

for the two-weeksa-year 

snowboarder. 

PRICE: €430 

WWW.SNOWBOARD 

ASYLUM.COM 

Best European 

Freeriding 

Resorts 

ST ANTON, AUSTRIA 


THE RESORT: One of Europe’s best allround 

resorts (pictured above) is also 

one of the most prized powder resorts 

in the world. The entire St Anton/ 

Arlberg area includes St Christoph, 

Stuben, Lech, Zurs, Nasserein, St Jakob, 

Pettneu, Oberdorf and Klösterle. And 

with almost 5,500ha of off-piste terrain 

it’d take an entire season to come close 

to exhausting the options on offer. 

MUST DO: The North Face of the 

Valluga is one of the Alps’ prized 

scalps. Take a tiny lift from the top of 

Valluga I gondola (see Valluga II in 

Scariest Lifts), and look forward to a 

steep pitch before it opens out into 

broad powder fi elds down to Zurs. 

FLY TO FRIEDRICHSHAFEN FROM ALICANTE 

AND LONDON (STANSTED). 

ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND 


THE RESORT: This lovely old Victorianera 

ski resort should count as a 

European must-do for any serious skier. 

The mellow atmosphere that pervades 

the entire town shouldn’t detract from 

the seriousness of the mountain. Head 

to the Titlis side of the ski area, where 

you quickly fi nd yourself in a serious 

high-altitude environment. Essential 

runs include Laub – 1,120 vertical 

metres of sheer, unadulterated off-piste 

joy; Galtiberg, nearly 2,000m of more 

varied off-piste; the Steinberg glacier 

route from Klein Titlis to Trübsee; and 

the east face of Jochstock. 

MUST DO: Take the Rotair cable car to 

3,020m. It is apparently the world’s 

only rotating cable car, so best avoided 

with a hangover. 

FLY TO BASEL FROM ALICANTE, CAGLIARI, 

LONDON (STANSTED), MARSEILLE PROVENCE MP2, 

PORTO AND STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA). 

SKI SPECIAL 

LA GRAVE, FRANCE 


THE RESORT: Only the French could 

come up with a resort like La Grave 

– one main lift, a million potentially 

deadly crevasses and limitless 

freeriding opportunities. This tiny 

village offers some of Europe’s most 

challenging high-altitude skiing, with 

a vertical drop of 2,200m. The ski 

area is unique in that 90% of it is 

unprepared and unpatrolled, with just 

12km of designated pistes and three 

ski lifts. The “piste map” says it all 

– pick your own route, with care. 

MUST DO: After quite technical entry 

points, the two primary descents 

– Vallons de Chancel and Vallons de 

la Meije – offer a mix of steeps, open 

powder fi elds and forest. Extreme cliff 

drops and couloirs await those with a 

guide, equipment, skill and guts. 

FLY TO GRENOBLE FROM SIX DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING DUBLIN, EDINBURGH AND LIVERPOOL. 


67

H O T E L 

ST. CHRISTOPH AM ARLBERG 

Only 3,5 metres from 

the slopes and chairlifts of the Arlberg 

ski area/Tirol/Austria 

Visit wwww.maiensee.com 

or call +43/5446/2804 

H O T E L 

ST. CHRISTOPH AM ARLBERG 

Cosy Interiors and 

First Class services await you after 

a long day on the slopes… 

Visit wwww.maiensee.com 

or call +43/5446/2804 

****Hotel Maiensee – St. Christoph/ 

St. Anton am Arlberg – Tirol - Austria 

7024_A5 Scope is a registered charity Does 

your ski trip 

offer this 

many peaks? 

Ski or board 24 peaks in 48 hours 

White Peaks Ski Marathon: Italy 4 – 7 March 2010 

Join our team and help raise much-needed funds 

for our work with disabled people. 

Call 0800 0191 200, email events@scope.org.uk 

or text ‘Event Ski’ plus name and address to 60003 

(standard text message rates apply). 

www.scope.org.uk/adventures

PHOTO © MORIESTORE COLLECTION 

Su er-Cool Retro 

Ski Destinati 

p per-Cool 

Retro 

Destinations 

Read much h modern modern ski ski covera coverage and you 

would be forgiven forgiven for thinking that today’s 

European ski world is one one long long jamboree jambore 

of boutique utique hotels, snowboard fun 

parks 

and heated chair i lift lifts. BBut t the reality is very 

different. There are huge swathes of the 

skiing continent that have never heard of 

snowboarding, see fur as a lifestyle choice and 

wear one-pieces for snow-repelling practicality 

rather than as some kind of ironic fashion 

statement. For many, it is skiing as it should be. 

So here’s where you should go for a taste of 

James Bond-style winter fun. 

ALTA BADIA, ITALY 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: Milan (Bergamo) 

LOWDOWN: Why Brits continue to frequent 

hectic old Meribel and Val d’Isère when the 

unhurried time capsule that is Alta Badia is 

within easy reach is something of a conundrum. 

Alta Badia consists of fi ve villages in the middle 

of the Dolomites: Colfosco, Corvara, La Villa, 

San Cassiano and Pedraces. They form the 

largest part of the Sella Ronda ski area, which 

in turn is part of the Dolomiti Superski area. 

Expect lively skiing and homely food. 

MUST DO: Visit Jimmy’s Hutte, which overlooks 

the Sella Massif and serves plenty of grappa. 

WWW.ALTABADIA.ORG 


INCLUDING BERLIN (SCHONEFELD) AND VALENCIA. 

CORTINA, ITALY 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: Venice (Treviso) 

LOWDOWN: When a resort’s former client list 

includes Peter Sellers and David Niven, you 

know you’re in good company. Cortina really 

is a window to another world, with antiquated 

cable cars, vertiginous slopes and some 

seriously regal old architecture. The skiing 

is divided into four areas – Faloria-Cristallo- 

Mietres, Tofana-Socrepes, Cinque Torri and 

Lagazuoi – linked by hectic ski buses and 

all different in terrain, aspect and elevation. 

MUST DO: Stroll the Corso Italia at dusk for some 

people watching and window shopping. You 

won’t be able to afford much, but it’s worth it 

just for the sheer number of fur coats on display 

WWW.CORTINA.DOLOMITI.ORG 

FLY TO VENICE (TREVISO) FROM 20 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING BREMEN, DUBLIN AND PARIS (BEAUVAIS). 

OBERGURGL, AUSTRIA 


LOWDOWN: Obergurgl inspires a fi erce loyalty, 

and everyone you meet seems to be on their 

third or fourth visit. This is skiing from a less 

jaded era, with gentle tree-lined routes the orde 

of the day, and the mere sight of a snowboarde 

in baggy trousers is likely to have the locals 

calling the cops. Linked to nearby Hochgurgl, 

the skiing area is surprisingly vast, and bona 

fi de intermediate heaven. At an altitude of 

1,920m, expect lots of snow and temporary 

breathlessness while your body gets used to it. 

MUST DO: Once it does, head to the 3,082m 

Top Mountain Star restaurant, serving killer hot 

chocolate amid incredible Alpine views. 

WWW.OBERGURGL.COM 

FLY TO FRIEDRICHSHAFEN FROM ALICANTE AND 

LONDON (STANSTED). 

SKI SPECIAL 

BURTON VE L 

ONE PIECE 

It may be diffi cult to 

believe, but one-pieces are 

back with a vengeance. This 

ladies’ all-in-one number from 

Burton is a typical example. 

Snug, stylish – wallfl owers 

need not apply. 

PRICE: €315 

WWW.BURTON.COM 

MUST- 

HAVE ITEM 

#2

Winter holiday in Norway 

Photo: Terje Rakke/Innovation Norway 

XC-skiing & activities 

Book your holiday now! 

www.skiingnorway.com

Scariest Li s 

Modern European ski resorts offer some of the 

slickest, smoothest lift systems on the planet, 

with heated seats, removable weather hoods 

and magic carpet conveyor belts to ease you 

onwards and upwards. So how did these kneeknocking 

terrors slip through the net? 

AIGUILLE DU MIDI, CHAMONIX, FRANCE 


THE LOWDOWN: Take a look at that top station, 

perched precariously at a height of 3,842m, 

and ask yourself just how the French put up 

this beast of a lift system (pictured above) 

back in the 1950s. 

FLY TO GRENOBLE FROM BIRMINGHAM, DUBLIN, 

EDINBURGH, LIVERPOOL, LONDON (STANSTED) AND 

STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA). 

VALLUGA II, ST ANTON, AUSTRIA 


THE LOWDOWN: You must be accompanied by 

a guide before you’re even allowed on this lift. 

That’s how scary it is. Serious stuff. 

FLY TO FRIEDRICHSHAFEN FROM ALICANTE AND 


FALORIA, CORTINA, ITALY 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: Venice (Treviso) 

THE LOWDOWN: An impossibly sustained vertical 

rise in a rickety cabin built when fur was a 

legitimate fashion item? No thanks, this one’s 

pretty frightening! 

FLY TO VENICE (TREVISO) FROM 20 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING BRINDISI, LEEDS AND STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA). 

Must-Do 

Runs 

DUTY FREE RUN, 

ISCHGL, AUSTRIA 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: 

Friedrichshafen 

DETAILS: Skiing 

between two 

countries is always 

exciting, and Ischgl 

sits on the Austro- 

Swiss border. Head 

down this 5km red 

run and enjoy some 

Swiss hot chocolate 

before heading back. 

FLY TO 

FRIEDRICHSHAFEN FROM 

ALICANTE AND LONDON 

(STANSTED). 

WEISSFLUHJOCH 

TO KLOSTERS 

DORF VIA SCHIFER, 

DAVOS KLOSTERS, 

SWITZERLAND 


Friedrichshafen 

DETAILS: Sometimes 

the Davos-Klosters 

amalgamation (the 

two resorts recently 

became one super 

resort) feels a little 

superfl uous. Then 

you take this run, and 

it all falls into place. 

FLY TO 

FRIEDRICHSHAFEN FROM 

ALICANTE AND LONDON 

(STANSTED). 

LA SARENNE, 

ALPE D’HUEZ, 

FRANCE 


Grenoble 

DETAILS: Get the knee 

brace out for this 

one, it’s going to be 

big! At 16km, this 

piste – reputedly the 

longest in the Alps 

– will test the leg 

strength of even the 

most experienced. 

Quite a journey. 

FLY TO GRENOBLE FROM 

BIRMINGHAM, DUBLIN, 

EDINBURGH, LIVERPOOL, 

LONDON (STANSTED) AND 


SKI SPECIAL 

OAKLEY SPLICE 

GOGGLES 

Oakley’s new Splice 

goggles reduce glare, keep 

down fogging thanks to vented 

lenses and, like most Oakley 

eyewear, help you look like the 

most technical, stylish skier 

on the mountain. 

PRICE: €136 

WWW.OAKLEY.COM 

MUST- 

HAVE ITEM 

#3 

VALLEE BLANCHE, 

CHAMONIX, 

FRANCE 


Grenoble 

DETAILS: An obvious 

choice, but still one of 

the most breathtaking 

runs in the world for 

the average skier. 

A dizzying arête to 

negotiate at the top, 

then fl at, simple skiing 

down the Mer de 

Glace into another 

high-altitude world. 

Take a camera. 

FLY TO GRENOBLE 

FROM SIX DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING DUBLIN. 


71

Agence Cyrano 


WHISTLER BLACKCOMB 

Defi nes Big–Mountain Resort 

+ = + 

Every saturday 

from plane to ski resorts 

via Marseille Provence Airport 

Win 

Booking online 

www.navettesblanches.com 

Set in the Coast Mountains of British 

Columbia, Canada, Whistler Blackcomb 

has the largest and most varied terrain in 

North America and is an ideal destination 

for all levels of skiers and boarders. From 

wide-open glaciers and alpine bowls to spacious tree skiing 

and perfectly groomed cruisers, there really is something 

suitable for everyone. Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains 

are now linked by the new world-record breaking PEAK 2 

PEAK Gondola. Whistler is a vibrant village with a thriving 

restaurant and nightlife scene; add to this breathtaking 

scenery Canadian hospitality and the longest, most 

powder-fi lled season in North America. 

Whistler Blackcomb is offering a great deal on 

early bookings this season. Book before 15 November 

and save up to 39 per cent on your booking. There is 

also an experience package available which includes 

four nights of accommodation and a three day lift 

pass from £48 per person per night. 

RESERVATIONS: 00 800 44 22 1122 

WWW.WHISTLERBLACKCOMB.COM/UK 

2 plane return tickets 

2 Navettes Blanches tickets 

accomodation for one week in Val d’Allos resort 

ski lifts 

on www.ryanairmag.com/page/competitions/ 

ONLY 

35* 

RETURN TICKET 

BOOK ONLINE 

NEW 

family fare 

90 ** 

From December 19 th , 2009 

to April 10 th , 2010 

*Adult round-trip fare : 35 - Price for child under 15 : 17 - Free for 

children under 2 

**Family fare : 90 round trip for up to 4 people travelling with one child. 

Competition details and conditions available on www.navettesblanches.com

Best Independent 

and Boutique Stays 

The rise of the DIY holiday has shaken up the 

ski industry in the past few years, and there has 

been a corresponding increase in the number of 

independent companies and one-off boutique 

hotels being set up. As a rule, these places are run 

by passionate ex-seasonaires or natives intensely 

familiar with local resorts and determined to 

offer a unique experience far removed from that 

of the main tour operators. The advantages for 

the customer are obvious. Not only are you likely 

to be in the hands of people who know their ski 

area well and have a direct link to the mainline of 

resort life, but you’re also likely to have more in 

common with your fellow guests. 

DRAGON LODGE, TIGNES, FRANCE 


DETAILS: This independently owned and run 

lodge in Tignes has a great reputation, and has 

been setting the pace for over a decade. The 

chalet is in the Les Almes area of Tignes Le 

Lac, so it is about a minute’s walk to the nearest 

piste and all amenities. Dragon Lodge tailors 

each guest’s ideal holiday by starting with a 

basic B&B or half-board service, then adding on 

required extras such as kit hire, off-piste guiding 

and transfers. The most laid-back snowboarding 

holiday in the Alps? We reckon so. 

PRICE: From €28pp. 

WWW.DRAGONLODGE.COM 

FLY TO GRENOBLE FROM SIX DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING 

EDINBURGH, LIVERPOOL AND LONDON (STANSTED). 

SKI LODGE, ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND 


DETAILS: Throw together a bustling communal 

vibe, a unique Swiss restaurant and fi ve 

Swedes with an enviable knowledge of their 

chosen resort and what have you got? One 

of the fi nest ski hotels in the Alps – the Ski 

Lodge (pictured above). The atmosphere at 

this hotel really is unique, and you’re based 

right in the centre of town. Comprising 34 

rooms, it offers mod cons such as wi-fi and 

cable TV, and a bar you won’t be able to drag 

yourself away from. 

PRICE: From 90CHFpp (€59), including breakfast. 

WWW.SKILODGEENGELBERG.COM 

FLY TO BASEL FROM SIX DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING 

ALICANTE, LONDON (STANSTED) AND PORTO. 

HOTEL NIVES, VAL GARDENA, ITALY 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: Milan (Bergamo) 

DETAILS: Hotel Nives opened in January last 

year and strikes a nice balance between fl ash 

boutique number and family run secret. The 

stone, wood and glass materials give it a 

lovely feel, and there are 11 luxurious suites. 

One of South Tyrol’s fi nest hotels, it boasts 

a spa and gourmet restaurant, and the Sella 

Ronda and Dolomiti Superski areas are both 

close at hand. 

PRICE: From €130pp, half-board. 

WWW.HOTEL NIVES.COM 


INCLUDING BRATISLAVA (VIENNA), FIGARI AND LONDON 

(LUTON AND STANSTED). 

SKI SPECIAL 

Best Resorts 

For Families 

ST JOHANN, AUSTRIA 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: Salzburg 

DETAILS: When a place has more mountain 

restaurants than black runs, you can expect 

a gentler type of skiing. The lifts, ski school 

and creche are all within 100m of the town 

centre, and only an hour from Salzburg. 

WWW.FERIENREGION.AT 

FLY TO SALZBURG FROM DUBLIN AND 


HEMSEDAL, NORWAY 

CLOSEST AIRPORTS: Oslo (Rygge and Torp) 

DETAILS: This lovely little resort is worth 

the trek from the airport. The pistes are 

mellow and there are special family rates 

– kids under six ski free. The northern 

latitude also creates a unique winter 

wonderland atmosphere. 

WWW.HEMSEDAL.COM 

FLY TO OLSO (RYGGE AND TORP) FROM 24 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING ALICANTE, BREMEN AND LONDON (STANSTED). 

BAQUEIRA BERET, SPAIN 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: Pau 

DETAILS: Arguably the best resort cuisine in 

Europe, just the right blend of expert and 

beginner terrain, and some great deals for kids. 

The best resort you’ve never heard of ? 

WWW.BAQUEIRA.ES 

FLY TO PAU (PYRENEES) FROM BRISTOL, BRUSSELS 

(CHARLEROI) AND LONDON (STANSTED). 

MUST- 

HAVE ITEM 

#4 

RED AVID HELMET 

Helmets should be de 

rigueur for all, and this lid 

warms your ears, as well as 

saving your cranium. It’s also 

compatible with the brand’s 

REDphones, so you can listen 

to music while you’re out 

and about. 

PRICE: €78 

WWW.REDPROTECTION.COM 


73

SKI SPECIAL 

Shortest 

Transfer Times 

Long, complicated transfers 

can be a fact of life on a skiing 

holiday, with most resorts 

an average of two or three 

hours’ drive from their nearest airport. Sure, if 

you’re there for a week or more it isn’t really 

a consideration. But what if you’ve got kids, 

or are only there for a long weekend to take 

advantage of a recent snowfall? That’s when 

a short transfer really comes into its own. 

So here are four resorts with extremely nifty 

transfer times, so you can be unpacked and 

ready to go a scant few hours after touchdown. 

PRATO NEVOSO, ITALY 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: Cuneo 

DETAILS: Little-known Prato Nevoso may 

not have the same fl air of traditional Italian 

resorts, but plays to its strengths with excellent 

beginners’ facilities and a great fun park aimed 

at freestyle daredevils. Only an hour from 

Cuneo, it’s purpose-built, so slope access is 

easy, and there’s a good nightlife, too. 


SIERRA NEVADA, SPAIN 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: Granada 

DETAILS: Yes, you can ski within sight of the 

Mediterranean and, on a good day, the African 

coast. The Sierra Nevada in southern Spain is 

another under-the-radar gem with great skiing 

and a versatile location. Get some sightseeing 

under your belt by staying in the beautiful 

city of Granada, from where you can check 

SIERRA NEVADA 

IS ANOTHER 

UNDER-THE- 

RADAR GEM 

KRVAVEC, SLOVENIA 

CLOSEST AIRPORT: Klagenfurt 

DETAILS: Only an hour from the airport and 15 

minutes from the Slovenian capital Ljubljana, 

Krvavec resort is best enjoyed by staying in the 

city and commuting each day. That way, you 

get to enjoy the views and moderate thrills of 

Slovenia’s steepest resort, as well as Ljubljana’s 

attractions and cosmopolitan nightlife. 

WWW.RTC KRVAVEC.SI 

FLY TO KLAGENFURT FROM FRANKFURT (HAHN), 

GOTHENBURG CITY, LONDON (STANSTED) AND 


VILLARD DE LANS-CORRENCON, FRANCE 


DETAILS: The phrase “best-kept secret” could 

have been invented for the little-known Vercors 

region – within spitting distance of Grenoble. 

Villard de Lans is the main village, with 

implausibly picturesque Corrençon en Vercors 

also close by. The Espace Villard-Corrençon 

ski area is also surprisingly challenging, with 

125km of slopes and 34 pistes to explore. 

WWW.VILLARDDELANS.COM 

FLY TO GRENOBLE FROM SIX DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING 

DUBLIN, LONDON (STANSTED) AND STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA). 

out the Alhambra Palace and have your fi ll of 

incredible tapas. The resort is then just a short 

drive away each day. 

WWW.SIERRANEVADA.CO.UK 

FLY TO GRANADA FROM BARCELONA (GIRONA), 

PHOTOLIBRARY 

© 

WWW.PRATONEVOSO.COM 

BOLOGNA, EAST MIDLANDS, LIVERPOOL, LONDON 

FLY TO CUNEO FROM CAGLIARI AND LONDON (STANSTED). (STANSTED), MADRID AND MILAN (BERGAMO). 

PHOTO 

MUST- 

HAVE ITEM 

#5 

SKIING EUROPE 

GUIDEBOOK 

BY MATT BARR AND GABRIELLA LE BRETON 

Covering 120 European resorts 

in eye-watering detail, Footprint’s 

Skiing Europe has been adopted 

by the Ski Club of Great Britain as its 

offi cial guide. Ski Sunday presenter Ed 

Leigh described it as “the best in the 

business. It’s the fi rst thing in the 

rucksack before every trip.” 

PRICE: €12 

WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK

The most dramatic 

slopes in France 

Extensive skiing and snowboarding in Serre 

Chevalier Vallée, the resort that links four 

beautiful and traditional villages along 85km 

of valley between Briançon and the famous 

Col du Lautaret, southern Alps. 

Serre Chevalier Vallée Tourist Office: 

0033 (0)4 92 24 98 98 www.serre-chevalier.com

RYANAIR INFLIGHT PROMOTIO 

QUALITYGOLF 

A perfect year-round climate and stunning natural 

scenery make the island of Gran Canaria the ideal place 

for outdoor sports, and above all golf 

Golfing heaven 

(Top) Anfi Tauro Golf course 

Royal Club de Golf de las Palmas 

Maspalomas Golf course 

GRAN CANARIA GOLF ASSOCIATION, C\PEDRO DE VERA 36, 3ºD, 

35003 LAS PALMAS DE GRAN CANARIA, SPAIN, TEL: +34 928 384 670; 

FAX: +34 928 369 300, E MAIL: INFO@CANARIASGOLF.ORG, 

WEB: WWW.GRANCANARIAGOLF.COM 

With an average annual temperature 

between 20º and 24ºC, Gran 

Canaria’s climate makes it the 

ideal destination for a golf holiday. 

Within a radius of less than 50km, 

visitors will fi nd 10 different outstanding courses. 

There are three separate courses in and around 

Las Palmas city, the most famous of which is Spain’s 

oldest golf club, the Real Club de Golf de Las Palmas, 

founded in 1891 in Bandama, alongside an extinct 

volcanic crater. The course enjoys spectacular views 

of both the crater and the sea. 

El Cortijo Club de Campo was the venue for 

the 2002 Spanish Open and is one of the longest 

courses in Spain, with up to six tee-offs per hole. The 

course has six lakes, more than 600 palm trees and 

spectacular views of the sea. 

Next door is Oasis Golf, considered one of the 

best courses in the world. A small-scale replica of a 

typical North American course, it has all the usual 

hazards, including lakes, bunkers, palm trees and other 

obstacles, as well as fl oodlighting, enabling golfers to 

enjoy the balmy evening temperatures in Gran Canaria. 

The rest of the courses are in the sunny south of 

the island. There’s the breathtaking Maspalomas Golf, 

surrounded by a 400ha nature park and next to the major 

tourist resort of the island, where there are a full range of 

hotels, from luxury fi ve-stars to apartments and bungalows. 

Nearby, the new Meloneras Golf was designed as a 

technically challenging course fi t to host international 

tournaments. The course has four tee-offs per hole, which 

makes it interesting for amateurs as well as professionals. 

Just a few minutes from Maspalomas, in an area 

of outstanding natural beauty, is the Salobre Golf & 

Resort, a tranquil oasis with two excellent courses. The 

South Course blends in with the striking topography of 

the area, while the North Course refl ects the infl uence 

of North America, offering a challenge to players who 

enjoy top quality golf amid impressive scenery. 

The recently inaugurated Anfi Tauro Golf affords 

incredible views of the spectacular Valle de Tauro 

mountains. The Arizona-style course is located in an 

area of lush green vegetation, with lakes and waterfalls, 

set against a dramatic volcanic mountain backdrop. 

Right next door is the Anfi Tauro (Pitch & Putt) – a 

nine-hole course of par threes, opened in 2001. 

Gran Canaria cemented its reputation as a place of 

golfi ng excellence by hosting the International Golf 

Travel Market (IGTM) in 2005 and the Spanish PGA 

Championship from 2006 to 2008, and was named 

offi cial holiday destination of the PGA for this period.

Pontedilegno 

Ponte di Legno, with its refined elegance, has succeeded in preserving 

the charm of a mountain village over the years. In the winter it offers ski 

runs of varying levels that guarantee excellent skiing. Ponte di Legno 

is part of the Adamello Ski area which has become one of the 

biggest and most important ski resorts of the Alps. 

Facilities include: 

• 100 km of ski runs • 30 lifts • Snow park 

• Only 120 km from Orio al Serio airport 

• Fly Ski Shuttle every Saturday – online booking available 

SKI START (9TH-13TH DECEMBER): 

4 days hotel HB+4 days skipass from €238,00/person 

ADAMELLO FREE (5TH-13TH DECEMBER): 

7 days hotel HB+6 days skipass from €358,00/person 

www.adamelloski.com 

Tel. +39.0364.92097 / +39.0364.91122 

FLY FROM 53 DESTINATIONS TO MILANO-BERGAMO (ORIO AL SERIO) 

Ponte di Legno con la sua raffinatezza ed eleganza ha saputo mantenere 

nel tempo il fascino del paese di montagna. Per l’inverno offre piste di vario 

livello che garantiscono un’ottima sciabilità. Ponte di Legno fa parte del 

comprensorio sciistico di Adamello Ski il quale è diventato uno dei più 

grandi e più importanti comprensori delle Alpi. 

I Servizi Includono: 

• 100 km di piste • 30 impianti di risalita • Snowpark 

• a soli 120 km dall’aeroporto di Orio al Serio (Bg) 

• Servizio di Fly Ski Shuttle tutti i sabati prenotabile anche online 

SKI START (9-13 DICEMBRE 2009): 

4 giorni hotel HB+4 giorni skipass da €238,00/persona 

ADAMELLO FREE (5-13 DICEMBRE 2009): 

7 giorni hotel HB+6 giorni skipass da €358,00/persona 

Pontedilegno 

Comune di 

Pontedilegno

WORLD AFFAIRS 

WELCOME TO 

* READ: MENTAL 


FLY TO BASEL, BERLIN (SCHONEFELD), BRATISLAVA (VIENNA), BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI), BUDAPEST T1, EINDHOVEN AND PARIS (BEAUVAIS) | 

EUROPE! 

One nation, fi ve counties. Check out our cutting-edge* vision for a 

new map of the continent where it’s croissants for breakfast, 

sauerkraut for lunch and we’re all neighbours. Words by Mike 

Peake. Illustration by Scott Chambers

VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION + CHECK OUT OUR ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 103 FOR ALL RYANAIR DESTINATIONS 

WORLD AFFAIRS 


79

WORLD AFFAIRS FLY TO DUBLIN, LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND STANSTED), MADRID, MALTA (LUQA), OSLO (RYGGE AND TORP), PORTO, PRAGUE, 

When you think about it, 

we’ve only ourselves to 

blame for the distinct lack 

of cohesion between the 

50 countries that make 

up Europe. After all, when was the last time 

you did your bit and pointed your satellite dish 

towards Poland, or sent a box of scones to a 

lonely Estonian trawlerman? 

But what we lack in neighbourliness, our 

forefathers lacked in vision. Those leaders who 

did see a more unifi ed Europe tended to want to 

rule the place themselves, and chose the bloody 

knuckles route. And they totally missed the point. 

The fact is that if you were to show everyone 

the “prize”, then there’s not a European alive 

who wouldn’t want to be part of our new maptweaking 

deal. Because that prize is beyond belief. 

The bounty is that New Europe rules the world! 

Imagine a Europe that functioned as a single 

country, the richest on the planet. Imagine 

a Europe where you could take in amazing 

beaches, mountain peaks and unspoilt forests, 

all without ever needing a passport (or paying 

outrageous tourist taxes). Imagine if New 

Europe was the new America – only better! 

Europe version 2.0. One nation, fi ve counties. 

It’s unstoppable. 


Rome 

CAESAR’S VISION REBORN! 

COUNTRIES: Italy, Spain, the Netherlands, 

France, Portugal, Switzerland, Germany, 

Luxembourg, Belgium, the UK, Ireland, 

Liechtenstein and Austria. 

LANGUAGE: English, but with a Geordie accent 

(because Rome sounds lovely as “Raumme”). 

COUNTY SEAT: Marseille – in the heart of the 

“county”, and already as cosmopolitan as 

European cities get. 

THE THEORY: As globetrotters go, the countrybaggers 

of Rome took some beating. By AD 117, 

the Empire had taken over half of Europe and a 

fat chunk of North Africa, which means a jobbing 

Roman soldier might have dined on snails one 

week and couscous the next – much like you now 

can in Waitrose. Just like Noel and Liam, Rome 

got a bit cocky and let things slide, but we think 

Caesar deserves another album, sorry, chance. 

THE CASE FOR: Should all but eliminate foreign 

football riots, and almost certainly force Jamie 

Oliver’s “Italian” restaurants out of business. 

THE CASE AGAINST: It’s 2,400km between 

northern Scotland and the tip of Italy, which 

might make it tricky for couriers promising 

same-day local deliveries, especially those 

eco-cheapskates on pushbikes. 

Tundratica 

PURE AND MAGICAL, AND THE 

WORLD’S LARGEST NATIONAL PARK! 

COUNTRIES: Denmark, Finland, Sweden, Norway 

and if Iceland wants in then Iceland. 

LANGUAGE: English, with a Scando accent, yesh? 

COUNTY SEAT: Gotland, the hard-to-get-to island 

off the eastern coast of Sweden, nice and slow. 

THE THEORY: The US has Alaska, but Americans 

have to cross Canada to even get there. Here’s 

a county that trounces anything the Yanks have, 

and – taking a long hard look at the Big Book 

of International Stereotypes – every woman in 

town will beat Sarah Palin in the hotness stakes. 

The country formerly known as Norway will 

provide free gas and oil to every home on the 

condition that all residents make one eighth of 

their garden available to hibernating bears. 

THE CASE FOR: Listen, they’re probably plotting 

this in Brussels as we speak. Tundratica will give 

skint Sami people access to all sorts of local 

grants, and it also makes Denmark feel less of a 

mapping error. Best of all, it ensures the future 

wealth of our new country thanks to nearendless 

natural resources off the Kola Peninsula. 

THE CASE AGAINST: Iceland might be a bit of a 

liability with all those bad debts. Is there anyone out 

there who can formally shift it to North America?

ROME (CIAMPINO), RIGA, STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA AND VASTERAS), TAMPERE AND ZADAR | VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION 

Medea 

LAPPED BY THE SEA AND CARESSED 

BY THE SUN GODS TRULY PARADISE FOUND. 

COUNTRIES: Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, 

Greece, Slovenia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, 

Bulgaria, FYROM, Turkey and Cyprus. 

LANGUAGE: English again. 

COUNTY SEAT: Split, Croatia, but as that’s such 

an ugly word it will be renamed. Please write in 

with suggestions. 

THE THEORY: Often thought of as the forgotten 

corner of Europe (have you met a man who’s 

been to Albania?), this vast swathe on the Med 

is revitalised by a new-found unity and funding 

for the world’s longest “lazy river” water ride, 

which meanders from The City Formerly Known 

As Split all the way down to Mersin in southern 

Turkey. At about 1,000 miles long, it embodies 

Medea’s laid-back way of life, and Europeans get 

to ride it for free (Americans: €500). 

THE CASE FOR: Albania needs a break – their 

national hero is Norman Wisdom (no, really!), 

and they failed to win a single medal at the 

Beijing Olympics, although weightlifter Romela 

Begaj came in sixth. 

THE CASE AGAINST: Greek national pride and, we 

suspect, political tensions may put a dampener on 

things. Still, if you don’t try, you get nowhere, right? 

Boris 

MOUNTAINS, FORESTS AND THE 

GOOD, HONEST HEART OF HEAVY INDUSTRY. 

COUNTRIES: Poland, Latvia, Estonia, Lithuania, 

Belarus, Slovakia, Hungary, Ukraine, Moldova, 

Romania and the Czech Republic – anywhere 

where it’s common to see a man with a spade 

or a moustache. 

LANGUAGE: English, naturally. 

COUNTY SEAT: Prague – one of the nicest cities 

in the world, and where the remit of the new, 

improved Czech Film Commission will be to 

overtake Hollywood within fi ve years. A hotline 

to Pinewood Studios in the former England will 

be mandatory. 

THE THEORY: A vast and sprawling county, this is 

the East Anglia of Europe, where farming and 

industry merge in perfect harmony and a man 

with dirt on his hands is greeted like a returning 

Viking warrior. 

THE CASE FOR: While staunchly proud, many 

of the nations that make up Boris are a bit 

overlooked in the grander scheme of things. 

None are really nailing it economically, but we 

think that a fresh identity – plus the chance to 

see Tom Cruise and Megan Fox every now and 

again – is exactly what’s needed. 

THE CASE AGAINST: That name might be a bit racist. 

WORLD AFFAIRS 

Atlantis 

NEW EUROPE’S CAPITAL! 

COUNTRIES: Malta. 

LANGUAGE: Gbe (as spoken in western Nigeria). 

COUNTY SEAT: Marsaskala. 

THE THEORY: People have inhabited Malta for 

over 7,000 years and, given the damn place is 

in the middle of nowhere, that’s all the proof 

we need that it’s worth visiting. Due to it being 

the capital, the island will soon be swollen to 

bursting point by holidaying Tundraticans and 

Romans, and thus require a land bridge – which 

would keep the Borisians in work for years. 

THE CASE FOR: All politicians would be bloody 

miles from the rest of the country, and the 

language barrier would make visits from foreign 

dignitaries as funny and gaffe-prone as if Prince 

Philip were in charge. It might just put the 

brakes on Nigerian email scammers, too. 

THE CASE AGAINST: Valletta might have 

something to say about losing its role as 

Malta’s capital. But Marsaskala sounds like 

a nice fruity liqueur, and we think the 9,000 

people who live there will rise to the challenge. 

What next? Write to your MEP. Get involved 

somehow. Buy a map and a pack of crayons! 

Next month: Mars – the great carve-up. 


81

VIENNA TOILETS 

Want to know about Viennese 

creativity? Just take a look at its 

lavatories, says Alex James. 

Photography by Alistair Fuller 

FOR THE 

I 

t’s said that you can tell a lot about a 

restaurant by the way it keeps its toilets. 

Not just their cleanliness, but also their 

design. Question is: can you apply this 

theory to a city? Take Vienna, what can 

you deduce about this former capital of the 

Austro-Hungarian Empire… from its lavatories? 

Now don’t get me wrong. It’s no hobby of 

mine to explore the toilet scene whenever 

I travel to a foreign land. But ever since my 

Austrian fl atmate – following a desperate, 


FLY TO BRATISLAVA (VIENNA) FROM 17 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ALICANTE | BARCELONA (GIRONA) | BIRMINGHAM | BOLOGNA | 

OF 

late-night attempt to fi nd a clean public loo in 

London’s West End – told me of Vienna’s “lavs 

of art”, I just couldn’t give it up. 

And in Vienna the celebration of the lowly 

WC has been taken to an extreme art form. 

From the streets and cafés to the underpasses 

and underground stations, there lies a hidden 

network of designer shrines to the call of 

nature. These temples often go unnoticed by 

visitors in favour of more renowned art such as 

Gustav Klimt’s masterpieces in the Secession or 

Egon Schiele’s nudes in the Leopold. But with 

Vienna’s renowned Art Week coming up on 

16–22 November, now is exactly the right time 

to check them out. 

“Controversy is nothing new with Vienna art,” 

says Ricky Renier, my guide and project coordinator 

for Vienna council’s arts body, KÖR. 

“Our most famous buildings like the Imperial 

Palace caused a scandal when they were built. 

Vienna’s art shows a commitment to the last 

detail. That social standard was set years ago, 

PHOTO © PA PICS

VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION + CHECK OUT OUR ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 103 FOR ALL RYANAIR DESTINATIONS 



83


and you can see it now – right through to the 

fabric of how toilets are kept.” 

Indeed. And so my journey into Vienna’s loos 

starts in Karlsplatz – one of the city’s busiest 

underground stations and transport hubs. Here 

the ultimate novelty WC awaits, and you’re 

likely to hear it before you see it (then smell 

it as the heady waft of cleaning fl uid beckons 

commuters for a grade-A service!). 

The Opera Toilet is themed around an ornate 

Viennese concert hall. The stunning backdrop 

welcomes you as you enter, and loud opera 

classics from the likes of Mozart pleasure your 

ears as you relieve yourself. 

Adjacent to the Opera Toilet lies another 

themed loo, the Bar Toilet – this time modelled 

on a late-night bar with retro beer bottles 

encased in the walls and a beaten-up piano 

in the men’s room. This statement to toilet 

nirvana is a strange place to take a leak, but by 

no means as controversial as when it opened 

in 2006. Then the urinals were shaped in the 

style of women’s lips, reminiscent of the Rolling 

Stones logo. When the more conservative 

among Viennese women glimpsed the fact 

these female lips were to be the recipient of 


FLY TO BRATISLAVA (VIENNA) FROM 17 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BRISTOL | BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) | DUBLIN | DUSSELDORF (WEEZE) | 

THE URINALS 

WERE SHAPED IN 

THE STYLE OF 

WOMEN’S LIPS 

men’s splashes of wee the public outcry was 

huge. The urinals were removed and auctioned 

off on eBay for the sum of €3,000. 

But perhaps when you consider the amount 

of new art going up around the city, it’s no 

surprise that Vienna’s public toilets are so 

individual. In the passageways of Karlsplatz 

underground station you’ll fi nd some in the 

shape of wall pieces by artist Ken Lum. The 

installation, entitled Pi, consists of a series 

of digital fi gures revealing statistical insights 

into Viennese society, such as the amount of 

schnitzel eaten in the city in a day, or the number 

of people who have fallen in love (a fi gure that 

constantly fl uctuates up and down). 

“Art in underground stations is vital,” says 

Ricky. “Art is something you usually have to 

pay to see in Vienna, but free art brings colour 

to stations and people’s lives. The enamel 

surfaces of the station walls make them perfect 

for murals.” One classic mural is artist Oswald 

Oberhuber’s Permanent – Graffi ti at Landstrasse 

station. And at other stations art takes the form 

of mosaics – Schottentor station (U2 line) 

features a piece by Barbara Krobath that hangs 

above the platform, made up of 40,000 pieces 

of Bisazza glass. 

But back to toilets, and at one of the world’s 

fi rst eco-housing complexes is one of Vienna’s 

true WC masterpieces. Built in the 1980s long 

before going green was fashionable (or even 

de rigueur), the Hundertwasserhaus housing 

estate is named after artist Friedensreich 

Hundertwasser who designed the building to 

be able to capture and recycle rainwater. It 

features undulating fl oors, a grass roof, and 

large trees growing from inside the rooms, with 

limbs extending out the windows. 

But it’s in the basement that the real shrine 

to water starts. Hundertwasser’s heavily 

signposted Toilet of Modern Art looks like 

it could come straight out of Antoni Gaudí’s 

quirky book of design. Enter through turnstiles 

to fi nd offset asymmetrical panelled tiles on 

the fl oors and walls, and smashed mirrors 

twinkling over the basins fi lled with pieces of 

mosaic and glass at odd angles.

PHOTO © PHOTOLIBRARY, CORBIS, ALAMY 

EDINBURGH | FRANKFURT (HAHN) | LIVERPOOL | LONDON (STANSTED) | VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION 

Yet not all the city’s WCs are overtly 

quirky. Take one of Vienna’s most ornate 

restaurant toilets at Kuchlmasterei (6 Obere 

Weissgerberstrasse). Its washrooms are as much 

a dedication to refi nement as the outside dining 

area, mimicking a Renaissance garden with 

classical statues spouting water amid the plush 

cubicles. Or the ladies’ toilets in The Ring hotel’s 

lobby – modelled on a movie starlet’s dressing 

room from Hollywood’s golden age. 

Compare this more contemporary design 

with the public toilet on Graben – a street that 

cuts from the city’s Cathedral to the Imperial 

Palace in the old town. Built in the early 1900s, 

it’s all art-deco tiling and mahogany cubicles. 

One street down on Platz am Hof, a public loo 

is all spruced up with polished wood fi nishing 

and brass taps. And over at Café Donau (10 

Karl-Schweighofer-Gasse) on a trendy street 

behind the Museum Quarter, the loos are 

more a temple to graffi ti art than a place to 

wee. In the ladies’ room you’ll fi nd a mesh of 

black lines adorning the walls put there for 

customers to colour in. 

Taking the toilet art obsession one 

step further is café Süsses Häusl (24 

Leopoldauerstrasse) next to Floridsdorf station 

on the U6 line. Here the chairs themselves are 

shaped like toilets. 

What then do Vienna’s incredible public 

and private toilets tell us about the city? The 

resounding message is that, for the Viennese, 

even the most basic and perfunctory of human 

instincts can become an excuse for creativity. 

And in a city that lives and breathes art in its 

very fabric, if you don’t fi nd these hallowed 

lavatories a source of inspiration you may at 

least fi nd them a source of relief. 

FOR MORE ON VIENNA ART WEEK 09, 16 22 NOVEMBER, 

VISIT WWW.VIENNAARTWEEK.AT OR WWW.AUSTRIAN. 

INFO. FOR GUIDED VIENNA WALKS & TALKS, VISIT WWW. 

VIENNAWALKS.COM. FOR UPMARKET ROOMS, STAY AT 

THE RING (8 KAERNTNER RING, TEL: +43 (0)12 2122, WWW. 

THERINGHOTEL.COM), OR FOR GREAT VALUE TRY HOLIDAY 

INN (53 MARGARETENSTRASSE, TEL: +43 (0)15 8850, 

WWW.VIENNA CITY.HOLIDAY INN.COM). 

Roll call 

Hundertwasser’s house 

was a pain to mop 

The art’s not bad, so why 

not linger a while? 

The infamous Bar Toilet 

Make your own creation at 

Café Donau’s graffi ti loos 


Cool 

Random 

Toilets of 

Europe 

Paris 

Sanisettes are 

the 400-strong 

self-cleaning grey 

Tardis-like bogs found 

throughout the city. 

These WCs were 

once more stinky 

than a Portaloo at 

a rock festival, but 

now councillors are 

replacing them with 

high-tech smart loos, 

complete with piped 

music, vandal-proof 

mirrors and spaceage 

design. 

London 

In 2003, Tate Britain 

art gallery hosted an 

outdoor toilet that 

invited users to “defy 

their embarrassment”. 

It featured one-way 

glass, meaning you 

could see out but the 

public couldn’t see in! 

Berlin 

In 2007, almost 

€800,000 was 

invested in the 

public toilets on 

Alexanderplatz. 

The walls of glass, 

stainless steel, and 

graffiti-proof photo 

art won these WCs 

numerous awards. 

Rothesay 

Given the Scottish 

penchant for a wee 

dram, it‘s no surprise 

their conveniences 

have to be pristine. 

The toilets on the 

pier at Rothesay 

– the Isle of Bute’s 

main town – are 

made of prestige 

Victorian marble. 


85

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sports on large screens 

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adding a twist to your city break

CULINARY RIGA 

If Sergei Trachook gets his way, most of us 

will be able to afford caviar one day. The 

Russian has huge plans for his fi sh farm near 

the Latvian capital, Riga, and huge plans 

for the roe that comes out of the sturgeon 

he has swimming about in dozens of cement 

tanks. “One day our rivers will be teeming 

again,” he declares, with a grin. 

We’re talking caviar with a conscience. You 

see, Trachook doesn’t kill his sturgeon like 

other caviar producers. Instead, he “milks” 

them for their roe using ultrasound technology 

and a special massage technique, before 

swiftly returning them unharmed into their 

temperature-controlled tanks. He’s putting 

them back into the Daugava river, too, in the 

hope that they will start breeding again. 

The Convention on International Trade in 

Endangered Species has given his fi sh farm, 


FLY TO RIGA FROM 13 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BREMEN | BRISTOL | BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) | DUBLIN | DUSSELDORF (WEEZE) | 

Riga is famed more for its stag 

parties than its food, but for 

those in the know it packs a 

punch on the palate, too. 

Fiona Sims checks out its 

restaurants, delicacies and a 

rather special fi sh farm 

TRUST 

IN YOUR 

STURGEON 

Mottra, the thumbs up – viewing it as a way 

forward in preserving sturgeon, which is close 

to extinction. The signs are good, then, for 

sampling some over my weekend in Riga. 

Prices are signifi cantly lower in Latvia, so 

eating out in restaurants – even with caviar 

– is much kinder on the wallet than elsewhere. 

But is the food any good? I certainly thought 

so – you just have to ignore the clunky English 

menu descriptions, littered with hilarious 

spelling mistakes and low on detail. 

It’s tempting to lump Latvian cooking in with 

that of its neighbour, Russia, which ruled the 

nation on and off up until its independence in 

1991. My initial scant research summed it up as 

bland and fatty – but then there’s not much call 

for Latvian cookery books written in English. 

Yet the garlic-drenched, toasted rye bread 

I’m nibbling on now is a delight, and the 

dill scattered over my boiled potatoes is 

the pungent mainstay of Latvian cooking, 

elevating even the most humble root. Add the 

caraway seeds, which crop up everywhere 

alongside dozens of different mustards, and 

Latvian food is all taste sensations. 

It’s my fi rst night and I’ve managed to fi nd a 

traditional restaurant in the old town that isn’t 

swarming with tourists, Jana Seta (9 Kaleju 

Iela, tel: +371 6708 7531). Here, old boys on 

a night out shovel down Latvian staples such 

as whole baked herrings served with cottage 

cheese and boiled potatoes (it works, honest), 

and black sausage – a tame version of the UK’s 

black pudding, served with lingonberry sauce 

and caramelised onions – while knocking back 

half-litre glasses of local Tervetes beer. 

I follow suit and am offered a glass of Black 

Balsam afterwards as a digestive. It’s the

EAST MIDLANDS | FRANKFURT (HAHN) | VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION + CHECK OUT OUR ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 103 

CULINARY RIGA 


PHOTO © JASON LOWE 

89

CULINARY RIGA FLY TO RIGA FROM 13 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING GLASGOW (PRESTWICK) | LIVERPOOL | LONDON (STANSTED) | MILAN (BERGAMO) | 

national drink and can be used in cocktails, 

added to coffee, and even mixed in with fruit 

juice. It’s thick and black, smells like treacle 

and tastes like cough mixture. You’ll either love 

it or hate it, but it does clear the senses. 

Clearing the senses is my aim the following 

day, visiting one of the many pretty lakes 

surrounding Riga. After a walk, lunch is at a 

no-frills village restaurant in Baltezers, Vanaga 

Ligzda (tel: +371 6799 0792), and I tuck into 

national favourite garlic soup – a clear, punchy 

broth with a soft-poached egg fl ecked with 

parsley. Moving on, I try potato pancakes röstistyle, 

served with cubes of marinated salmon 

and sour cream, followed by bread soup for 


Making a splash 

Previous page: a worker at 

Mottra’s sturgeon farm 

Celebrity chef and owner 

of Vincent’s, Martins Ritins 

Black Balsam, Latvia’s 

national tipple 

Red berries on sale at the 

Central Market 

Istaba proprietor Martins 

Sirmais 

Art and food collide at 

Istaba restaurant 

IT’S THE BEST 

HANGOVER 

CURE… IT TASTES 

LIKE THE DREGS 

OF A PICKLE JAR 

dessert, which turns out to be a heavenly mix 

of dark rye and dried fruits – a sort of liquid 

Christmas pudding. 

Unable to recover my appetite in time for 

dinner, I go for cocktails with a view. One of 

Riga’s most iconic landmarks is the clock tower 

at the Central Station. A hangover from Riga’s 

Soviet days in the 1960s, it also houses one 

of the world’s smallest cocktail bars, Neo (tel: 

+371 6707 3073), spread over three tiny fl oors 

connected by a hazardous wrought-iron spiral 

staircase. The views and cocktails are worth 

the effort though – reaching far across the city 

to the slate-grey Baltic Sea beyond. 

Keen to get more of a handle on Latvian 

ingredients, the following morning I visit the 

Centraltirgus (Central Market). Had I arrived in 

the capital on the second or fourth Saturday 

of the month, I would have also visited the 

organic farmers’ market at Bergs Bazaar. 

Founded by Latvia’s most celebrated chef, 

Martins Ritins, it showcases the best local 

producers, located in a picturesque renovated 

19th-century arcade (13 Marijas Street). 

Aside from the dizzying array of produce, 

the Central Market has an interesting history. 

The fi ve vast buildings were once abandoned 

Zeppelin hangars, which dominate the skyline 

and support Riga’s boast of having the biggest 

market in Europe after Istanbul. 

Feeling peckish, I stop by doughnut stand 

Krial’s Virtuli, and eat warm, freshly made buns 

fi lled with bruklenu (sour berry jam), kabatinas 

(cottage cheese-stuffed pockets) and piradzins 

(ubiquitous, tiny, crescent-shaped pies fi lled 

with smoked bacon), then quench my thirst at 

a nearby café with kvass, a mildly alcoholic and 

surprisingly refreshing dark rye bread drink, 

popular in this part of the world. 

At another stall I also try sauerkraut juice. At 

0.15 lats (€0.21) per cup, it’s the best hangover 

cure in the world, according to the grinning 

stallholder. And he’s right, although it tastes 

like the dregs of a pickle jar. Next, I almost try 

the lamprey in the fi sh market, another revered 

delicacy here. But discovering it’s packed in 

aspic and seasoned with coffee, I reconsider.

STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA) | TAMPERE | VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION 

By the time I reach the overpoweringly 

smokey meat market next door (smoked 

meat is huge in Riga), I call time on tradition. 

Now the search is on for lighter, more 

contemporary fare. Thanks to the current 

economic crisis the modern Latvian dining 

scene hasn’t moved as fast as might be hoped 

for a foodie like me, but there are a few hot 

spots such as Ostas Skati (15 Matrozu Iela, 

tel: +371 6750 8657, www.ostasskati.lv), 

Riga’s latest opening on the left bank of the 

sprawling Daugava river. 

With views back towards the old town, the 

place is occupied by wealthy Latvians, who 

moor their luxury cruisers at the pontoon to 

munch on chef Ingmars Ladigs’s simple but 

smart cooking, which uses a mix of Latvian 

and European produce. Get there by boat 

picked up from the Bastejs Kalns jetty on the 

canal in the city centre. 

Home-smoked salmon, fresh from Ladigs’s 

own smoker – which puffs away on the terrace 

– is worth the trip alone. And his organic chargrilled 

beef and dill-speckled potatoes, along 

with a fresh-tasting dessert of local cottage 

cheese and strawberries, also hits the spot. 

Leading the way in contemporary Latvian 

dining is undoubtedly Martins Ritins, whose 

restaurant Vincents (19 Elizabetes Iela, 

tel: +371 6733 2830, www.vincents.lv) is 

universally declared Riga’s best. Adorned with 

portraits of the affable chef hobnobbing with 

various heads of state, it brings the best of the 

country into Ritins’ clean, innovative cooking, 

which includes Mottra caviar. Ritins likes to 

use this in a number of dishes, including a 

generous serving of the eggs alongside a 

ceviche of scallops with poached langoustine 

tails, dressed in herb, chilli and lobster oils. 

After Vincents I take things down a notch 

at Istaba (31a Kr. Barona Iela, tel: +371 6728 

1141), where art and food collide. It’s owned by 

chef Martins Sirmais, and there’s no menu – just 

meat or fi sh and dessert. There are no prices 

either, as he asks what you would like to spend 

at his shabby-chic café-cum-art gallery. Don’t 

miss the fresh blackcurrant juice, hand-picked 

by Sirmais, then steamed gently before serving. 

I end the day with coffee and pancakes 

with “sugar-knead berries” at stylish 

Meta-Kafe (Block 12, 1 Maskavas Iela, 

tel: +371 6720 4993, www.metakafe.lv) 

in the Spikeri district – an area of 18thcentury 

warehouses presently being given 

a makeover, where Latvia’s new Museum 

of Contemporary Art will soon reside. My 

conclusions, you ask? Latvian food, bland 

and fatty? Not in the Riga I saw. 

A taste of heaven 

A nice dollop of 

Latvian caviar 

The view from Neo 

CULINARY RIGA 

PHOTOS © JASON LOWE AND REINIS HOFMANIS 

Meet the 

man 

Sergei Trachook has 

always loved fi sh, and 

he’s always wanted an 

aquarium. Well now he’s 

got a huge one, at his 

fi sh farm, Mottra. 

We’re talking 

sturgeon, both osetra 

and sterlet – 50 tonnes 

of them, each weighing 

6–20kg. Trachook bred 

each one from an egg, 

and now they give up 

their delicious eggs 

every 18 months or 

so, when we can enjoy 

them spread simply 

on buttered bread, or 

licked off the side of the 

hand, Russian style. 

The sturgeon are 

grown in large tanks 

that mimic their natural 

habitat, with ultrasound 

equipment detecting 

when eggs are ready. 

After being pulled 

gently out of the water, 

a 2mm slit is made in its 

belly and the massaging 

begins using long 

strokes. A black liquid 

jet shoots into a plastic 

bowl as the massaging 

continues for a couple 

of minutes. Then 

the fi sh is returned 

unharmed to the pool 

to live on for many 

more years. The liquid is 

strained and the stash 

of eggs collected. 

BUY MOTTRA AT WWW. 

MOTTRA.CO.UK, HARVEY 

NICHOLS AND SELFRIDGES. 

PRICES START AT ABOUT 

£35 (€39) FOR 30G. 


91

DESTINATION RIGA 

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Julian & Roberto welcome you to: 

ta’ kolina 

This family run restaurant which opened in 1974 and named Nicole (KOLINA) after 

the owners daughter is situated in Tower Road, centrally located on the Sliema’s 

most popular spot, . Ta’ Kolina is very popular for its Maltese cuisine and has a 

warm and friendly atmosphere, with outside or inside dining. The Restaurant offers 

a set Maltese Menu with a choice of (5) local starters, (5) main courses, dessert 

& coffee etc. for €20.00. A unique a la carte’ menu with some 20 starters from 

€4.50 to €7.50 & 20 main courses from €11.00 to €24.00 to choose from. 

Speciality dishes include, fresh fish, rabbit and pepper steak which are 

most popular. We have a wide selection of the best Maltese wines. 

Tourists wish they had discovered us earlier. 

We are open every day from 5.30 pm (evenings only) 

151 Tower Rd, Sliema - Malta | Tel +356 21335 106

Beautiful beaches, ancient culture and magical cures... these are just a few of the many 

reasons to trade the Med for the Black Sea this summer! 

Saturn, Venus and Jupiter are 

closer than you think! For anyone 

who feels the Mediterranean has 

become a bit of a “been there, done 

that” experience, the resorts on 

Romania’s Black Sea coast – some of which 

bear stellar names – may just be the perfect new 

summer playgrounds. 

The Romanian coast is renowned for its fi ne, 

soft sand and safe, gently sloping beaches. And 

because there are no currents or tides, they 

are safe for families with children. Mamaia, the 

oldest and largest, is an ideal choice, thanks to 

its growing number of child-friendly attractions 

– including a Dolphinarium and Planetarium, 

both within easy reach of the beach – not to 

mention a great assortment of fun water sports 

and extensive choice of hotels, restaurants, 

and entertainment. In fact, all of the Black Sea 

beaches, stretching from Mangalia to Mamaia, 

are dotted with fi ne resorts and hotels and 

countless sports and entertainment facilities. 

The young crowd tend to opt for Costinesti, 

which is packed all summer long, and where 

open-air discos ensure they are able to fully 

enjoy themselves, day and night. 


DISCOVER ROMANIA 

The Black Sea coast has 

long been known for 

cures for arthritic, 

rheumatic, internal and 

nervous disorders 

Romania’s Black Sea coast is not, however, 

just about beaches. Remnants of ancient Greek 

culture going back as far as the seventh century 

BC (when seafarers established trading colonies 

along the coast) are still being discovered. 

The town of Constanta, dating back to 

Superb beaches 

Mamaia Beach and resort 

Constanta Casino, 

Cazinoul Din Constanta 

Sucevita Monastery 

(XVI c.). Bucovina 

Enjoy the health giv 

ing benefi ts of Romania’s 

fabulous spas 

the 7th century BC, is a must visit. Nearby to 

Constanta traditional villages and vineyards, 

such as Murfatlar, are the perfect places to 

indulge in some wine-tasting; and many are 

surprised by the excellent quality of Romanian 

wines! Many museums and monuments along 

the coastal area illustrate a rich history dating 

back to Greek, Roman and Byzantine times. 

The Black Sea coast has long been known 

for its “magical” cures for arthritic, rheumatic, 

internal and nervous disorders. Eforie Nord 

and Mangalia Spas specialise in mud baths (the 

mud is taken from the area’s salty lake waters) 

as well as in world-famous “Gerovital” and 

“Aslavital” original rejuvenation treatments. 

Visitors to Romania’s Black Sea Coast can 

also join organised trips from the seaside to a 

number of locations in the country, including 

the Danube Delta, the painted monasteries 

of Bucovina and to the nation’s capital city, 

Bucharest, as well as to other tourist areas. 

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT 

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ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 103 FOR ALL RYANAIR DESTINATIONS

Discover history by following the 

trail of St Francis of Assisi, taking 

you through Umbria’s most historic 

and picturesque regions 

ST FRANCIS’ 

WAY

BOLOGNA 

PISA 

(FLORENCE) 

PERUGIA 

RIMINI 

ANCONA 

PESCARA 

ROME 

(CIAMPINO) 


An ancient trail for those 

who’d like a different kind of 

travel experience while also 

rediscovering themselves 

through an alternative view 

of nature and civilisation, which has its roots 

in the past and foreshadows a different kind 

of future. From Umbria to Rome, following 

in the footsteps of St Francis: the path 

followed by the saint comes to life starting in 

Citerna, passing through Perugia and Assisi 

and ending in Rome. Unveiled in September 

2008 by the Region of Umbria and the travel 

organisation Opera Romana Pellegrinaggi, 

the path runs across 270 kilometres with 16 

itineraries, which can be followed on foot, by 

bike and on horseback. It offers a journey 

through obsolete sites, which are soulful 

places for discerning travellers. A journey 

through time, remembering St Francis, his 

pilgrims and his messengers. But it’s also an 

opportunity to travel right across Umbria, 

stumbling upon its treasures, including its 

scenery, villages, cities of art and fi rst-rate 

food and wine: all the elements which make 

up Umbria’s unique way of life. 

The trip starts at the region’s northern 

border, in Citerna, a medieval village on top of 

a hill overlooking the Tiber Valley. 

From Cittá di Castello we arrive in 

Collevecchio followed by Pietralunga and then 

the fourth stop, Gubbio. This is one of Umbria’s 

most ancient towns and a masterpiece of 

medieval civilisation, where the Iguvine Tablets 

are preserved at the Palazzo dei Consoli, in the 

shadow of the Basilica of St Ubaldo, home to 

the remains of its patron saint. 

On day nine, after Gubbio, Biscina, 

Valfabbrica and Ripa, we arrive in Perugia. 

Awaiting visitors is the 13th-century Fontana 

Maggiore (Main Fountain), the Gothic Palazzo 

dei Priori, the Cathedral of martyr San 

Lorenzo, the city’s patron saint, and the Arco 

Etrusco, bearing witness to its long history. 

Setting off towards Assisi, along the path of 

Aldo Capitini’s peace march, we then head 

for Santa Maria degli Angeli which is home 

to the Porziuncola, where St Francis founded 

the Order of Friars Minor in 1209. Entering 

Assisi via the Porta San Pietro, we go up past 

the Cathedral of San Rufi no until we reach 

the Basilica of St Francis, the heart of the 

Franciscan movement. 

The journey continues, arriving at the 

Eremo delle Carceri, Spello and Foligno on day 

10 and then onto the later stages, Trevi, Poreta 

and Spoleto with its Ponte delle Torri, until we 

reach Ceselli on day 14. 

From Ceselli, we cross the Tiber valley 

where woods alternate with plains and valleys, 

gorges and rocks, along the Nera river until we 

get to Ferentillo, an ancient town surrounded 

by the two medieval fortresses of Precetto and 

Mattarella, and Arrone, an agricultural centre 

Flavours of a region 

A beautiful view and a long day ahead 

Umbrian truffl es 

Piazza San Benedetto, Norcia 

It’s an opportunity to travel across Umbria, stumbling 

upon its treasures, including its scenery, villages, 

cities of art and fi rst-rate food and wine: all the 

elements which make up Umbria’s unique way of life

situated on a rocky hill on the left bank of the 

Nera river. 

The journey ends on day 16 with some 

outstanding scenery: along the path which 

runs alongside the Nera, we arrive at the 

Cascata delle Marmore (Marmore’s Falls), a 

breathtaking waterfall for travellers in times 

gone by, and Piediluco, along the banks of the 

small lake between the Umbrian hills, on the 

border with Lazio. 

In the footsteps of the 

Etruscans 

Tracks. Or rather footsteps. Footsteps with 

a message, with all the power of history and 

art. Ruins and walls. Arches and monuments. 

Tombs and necropoleis, bearing witness to 

the refi ned culture of an ancient civilisation. 

“Segni Etruschi” is an itinerary developed by 

the Region of Umbria in collaboration with 

Umbria’s Superintendence of Archaeological 

Heritage and Sviluppumbria (the regional 

development agency), allowing visitors 

to complete a circuit of Umbria’s main 

monuments, remembering those who for a 

long time ruled over the region of Etruria, 

made up of 12 city states or lucumoniae in 

Emilia Romagna, Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio 

and Campania. Perugia, the Tevere Valley, 

Orvieto: here paths run between the ruins of 

walls, wells, gates, sanctuaries and necropoleis, 

through to museums containing a wealth of 

exhibits which visitors can choose to see as 

they wish and with detailed facts thanks to 

new tools developed as part of the project. 

And while following the footsteps of their 

ancient ancestors, visitors have access to 

dedicated historical/archaeological itineraries 

(also available for iPods, mp3-players and 

mobile phones), to discover tombs and walls, 

sculptures, decorations, ornaments and 

furnishings; an incredibly signifi cant initiative 

to accompany and enliven these routes. A new 

way of discovering the Etruscans: by bicycle 

through towns, villages and countryside, 

taking in the archaeology as well as enjoying 

the scenery and sport. With seven stops 

(starting from Corciano, through to Perugia, 

Bettona, Marsciano, Todi and fi nally reaching 

Orvieto) the initiative offers itineraries for 

cycling enthusiasts, meticulously pointing 

out their routes and relative diffi culty levels, 

and supplying a “road book” full of technical, 

altimetric and planimetric data. The road 

book is of course accompanied by a chart 

showing the monuments to visit along the way, 

including those out in the open air and those 

While following in the footsteps of their ancient 

ancestors, visitors have access to dedicated 

historical/archaeological itineraries, to discover 

tombs and walls, sculptures, decorations, ornaments 

and furnishings; an incredibly signifi cant initiative

located within museums. 

However, the main tool is still the new 

“Archaeological Guide following in the 

footsteps of the Etruscans”. An opportunity 

to demonstrate the region’s Etruscan soul, its 

history and evolution, offering tourists a detailed 

and up-to-date outline of all the tools used 

to make this heritage available to everyone. 

Mariarosaria Salvatore and Paolo Bruschetti 

from the Superintendence of Archaeological 

Heritage of Umbria explain how knowledge of 

Etruscan civilisation has reached an excellent 

level and above all has managed to eliminate 

that aura of mystery that often still surrounds 

it. Starting with language. Today, confi rms 

Marianna Rosati, editor of the guide, it can be 

said that the enigma of the Etruscan language 

has been partially resolved, insofar as we know 

about its phonetics, the meaning of many words 

and we are able to reconstruct parts of its 

grammatical rules. 

Etruscan cuisine 

Tell me what you eat and I’ll tell you who you 

are (just a little though, because there are other 


Sights, tastes and smells 

Basilica of San Francesco in Assisi 

Roccaporena, part of the Cascia municipality 

The Etruscan table 

variables and food isn’t everything). This is to 

do away with all the talk of culinary journalists 

referring to German philosopher Feuerbach, 

who, if we carry on as we are, will be 

remembered for nothing more than the fateful 

phrase “You are what you eat”. Not coined at 

all in a culinary sense, Feuerbach was faced 

with the concepts of German idealists Hegel et 

al and intended to say that man was part of the 

land, made of meat, real. So, did the Etruscans 

eat? Of course. Precisely for their eating habits, 

Greek and Roman historians branded them as 

a group with gluttonous tendencies, portraying 

their desire for sumptuous banquets and fully 

laid tables twice a day, compared to the more 

restrained Romans who ‘nibbled’ one meal 

frugally while standing up. They also depicted 

the women who ate just as much as the men 

(without fear of playing down the kindness of 

their sex), lounging alongside them in triclinia. 

Did they drink too? Certainly, if it’s true (as 

it appears to be) that it was the Etruscans 

who fi rst produced wine (the word “vinum” 

originates from the Etruscans), enjoying it in 

large volumes both as part of banquets and 

in the kitchen (where they also cooked to 

the rhythm of music), and basting their spitroasted 

meat. This together with a lot of other 

information has been cleverly compiled in a 

booklet written by Maria Luciana Buseghin, 

The Etruscan Table, which accompanies the 

guides and maps of “Segni Etruschi”. Having 

reconstructed Etruscan cuisine, Buseghin, an 

anthropologist and cooking fan, concludes 

with active archaeological information and 

dishes out a good number of Umbrian 

recipes, presumably originating from the 

home of these ancient ancestors: starting 

with the crostone etrusco with olives, garlic, 

parsley, pinenuts, cheese and walnut kernels, 

moving on to sweetbreads and broad beans, 

soups and minestrone made with chickpeas, 

chestnuts, barley as well as spelt and beans, 

fi nishing off with traditional Umbrian dishes, 

such as Perugia-style roast duck, Guardeastyle 

wild boar, pheasant alla tiberina and 

juniper guinea-fowl. 

Etruscan through and through! 

WWW.REGIONEUMBRIA.EU

www.prague-info.cz 

Prague 

will captivate 

your senses

CAPTIVATING 

your 

PRAGUE Whether you’re planning a long weekend or a 

stunning Christmas escape, Prague will dazzle you 

Rich with Beauty... 

...and full of history, it also has a colourful and 

lively contemporary scene. Best of all, it’s just a 

short fl ight away and with great deals on travel 

and fi rst-class accommodation, there’s 

nowhere better for a short break. 

Rich with history 

Prague has always ranked highly among the 

world’s greatest cities. The unspoilt historic 

centre is a Unesco World Heritage Site, and 

the city’s great churches and towers still stand. 

The 19th-century physicist Bernard Bolzano 

dubbed Prague ‘the City of a Hundred Spires’, 

and you’ll fi nd this name still holds true today. 

Take a walk around the Small Quarter and the 

Old Town with its famous Jewish quarter; 

there are so many palaces, museums and 

galleries to explore. Until 8 November there’s a 


unique opportunity to discover one of the 

legends of Prague, the renowned Rabbi 

Loew – an exhibition at Prague Castle marks 

the 400th anniversary of his death. Or at the 

City of Prague Museum, marvel at Langweil’s 

superbly detailed 3D scale model of 19thcentury 

Prague. New to this exhibit is a 3D 

movie-theatre where you can experience what 

it’s like to fl y through the model. 

WWW.MUZEUMPRAHY.CZ 

Atmospheric Christmas 

markets 

Of course, our famous Christmas markets start 

on 28 November. You can enjoy a truly 

exceptional Prague Christmas at the 

International Festival of Advent and Christmas 

Music (8-13 December). Wander the decorated 

streets, sip scented mulled wine and pick out 

Christmas presents. When it’s time for a 

rest, try some hearty Czech cuisine and make 

the most of our world-famous beer. Then plan 

your evening’s entertainment… 

There will also be a variety of special 

concerts in Prague this year – check out the list 

below. Enjoy an evening of music and then 

return to your hotel, walking through dusky 

streets, lit only by the glow of gas lamps. 

Nothing could be more romantic. 

STRINGS OF 

AUTUMN FESTIVAL 

22 Sep 20 Nov 

Prague hosts the Strings of 

Autumn festival, welcoming 

international jazz and 

classical musicians. 

WWW.STRUNYPODZIMU.CZ 

HARLEM GOSPEL CHOIR 

31 Oct 

Hear the world famous 

Harlem Gospel Choir at the 

Congress Centre in Prague. 

WWW.TICKETPRO.CZ 

DIANA KRALL 

26 Nov 

This leading personality of 

contemporary jazz will be 

performing again at the 

Congress Centre. 

WWW.TICKETPRO.CZ 

TOM JONES 

10 Nov 

The showbiz legend will 

perform his most famous hits 

from the past and the present. 

WWW.O2ARENA.CZ 

PINK 

19 Nov 

The two time Grammy winner 

will be performing all her big 

hits, as well as material from 

her recent smash hit 

album Funhouse. 

WWW.O2ARENA.CZ 

The 19th-century physicist 

Bernard Bolzano dubbed 

Prague ‘the City of a Hundred 

Spires’, and you’ll fi nd this 

name still holds true today.

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DRAW SPECIFICATIONS: 

DRAW DATE: 

December 22nd, 2009 

DRAW LOCATION: 

Madrid, Spain 

TICKET AVAILABILITY: 

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< 5604 1271 > 

5 


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3 

< 5604 1271 > 


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Mr/Mrs 

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OF WINNINGS 

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PAYMENT BY: (tick one box) 

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ticket you order is one decima, which and agents’ charges. Valid only 

is 1/10 of a total set. A half ticket is where legal. Not valid for 

1/20 of a total set. 

residents of the Netherlands, 

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** A full ticket has 10 decimas all with 

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10 times more money than with a 

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©2009 EAD-207N 8 EGB A20 EEUR 003 

RETURN THIS FORM TO: 

Priority Processing Centre, Postbus 74101 

1070 BC Amsterdam, THE NETHERLANDS 

€195,000,000.00 

€1,443,000,000.00 

▼ ÈL GORDO´ TICKET RESERVATION FORM ▼ 

M M Y Y 

____________________________________________ 

Date of Birth ____ DAY /____ MONTH /____ YEAR (You must be 18 years or older) 

If you do not wish to receive information and offers from other organisations 

carefully selected by European Lottery Guild, please let us know. 

European 

Lottery Guild 

EGH/EGO M9J004 

FOR NOTIFICATION 

URGENT DEADLINE: ENTRY MUST BE 

RECEIVED BY DECEMBER 15th, 2009. 

After this date, please call or fax to confirm ticket availability. 

FOR FASTER ENTRY USING YOUR CREDIT CARD: From most European countries, orders may be 

FAXED FREE to: INT’L + 800 2878 9878 or call FREEPHONE: INT’L + 800 2787 7872. 

From elsewhere, orders may be FAXED to: INT’L + 1 604 675-2708 or telephone: INT’L + 1 604 675-2704. 

▲ KEEP THIS PORTION ▲ ▲ KEEP THIS PORTION ▲ ▲ KEEP THIS PORTION ▲ 

▲ KEEP THIS PORTION ▲ ▲ KEEP THIS PORTION ▲ ▲ KEEP THIS PORTION ▲ ▲ KEEP THIS PORTION ▲

BUSINESS 

OPPORTUNITIES 

FINDING THE RIGHT 

BUSINESS FOR YOU! 

• Business Opportunities 

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• Free Legal and Tax Experts 

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Jurmala – biggest health 

resort in Baltic sea region! 

• 20km from Riga • 15km from International airport “Riga” 

www.jurmala.lv

For our full route map visit www.ryanair.com 

RYANAIR TWO-MINUTE 

DESTINATION GUIDES 

105 FRANCE / 107 GERMANY / 109 IRELAND / 111 ITALY / 113 POLAND / 115 SCANDINAVIA / 117 SPAIN / 119 UK 

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Gîtes de France Hérault 

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GÎTES DE FRANCE 

Another way to discover Corsica! 

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Book your summer 2010 holiday online now at 

www.happycamp.com 

& guarantee a Happy Holiday with Happy Camp!

For our full route map visit www.ryanair.com TEXT BY CARLIE TROTTER 

Ryanair Two-Minute Guides 

FRANCE 

NUMBER CRUNCHER 

5 The 

number of Nobel prizes 

won by the Curie family. 

Nice 

EAT: CHEZ JULIETTE 

Matisse inspired décor plus dishes that 

are both colourful to the eye and the 

palate make for an ideal evening of sweet 

nothings that’s also kind on your wallet. 

If the old town romance has you looking 

for an aphrodisiac, be sure and go for the 

chocolate drenched pear. 

1 RUE ROSSETTI, TEL: +33 (0)4 9392 6847 

QUAFF: CHATEAU DE CREMAT 

With the grape harvest beginning at 

the end of September, it’s only polite to 

help owner Cornelius Kamerbeek drain 

some old bottles at this ancient Roman 

vineyard. Try the 2003 Chardonnay, with 

its light, fresh fruit aroma, while chilling 

out on the castle terrace. 

442 CHEMIN DE CREMAT, TEL: +33 (0)4 

9215 1215, WWW.CHATEAU CREMAT.COM 

DANCE: LA BODEGUITA 

DEL HAVANA 

Salsa off that indulgent dessert in this 

cosy Cuban bar, where live music fi lls 

the air from around 10pm and you’re 

guaranteed some joie de vivre. 

14 RUE CHAUVIN, TEL: +33 (0)4 9392 

6724, WWW.LABODEGUITA NICE.COM 

SEE: MUSEE MATISSE 

Check out this important collection of 

works by the master Fauvist painter in 

this Genoan style villa (pictured) close 

to where the artist lived between 1918 

and 1954. Spend some time appreciating 

the gentle hues of Nice and, chances are, 

you’ll leave feeling inspired, too. 

164 AVENUE DES ARENES, TEL: +33 (0)4 

9381 0808, WWW.MUSEE MATISSE NICE.ORG 

FLY TO NICE FROM DUBLIN 

Paris 

DRINK: ANDY WAHLOO 

If a laid back Moroccan vibe is your bag, 

then head to this kitsch bar for a brightly 

coloured cocktail or six during happy hour. 

From the creator of Momo’s in London, 

the dress code is chic magnifi que. 

69 RUE DES GRAVILLIERS, 

TEL: +33 (0)1 4271 2038 

DO: SEGWAY NIGHT TOUR 

Guided tours can sometimes require 

too much attention and cardio output, 

but cruising the City of Light by Segway 

(pictured) will keep things interesting, 

even for Paris veterans. You can overtake 

evening strollers on the Champs Elysées, 

but one tour rule: don’t drink and Segway. 

24 RUE EDGAR FAURE, TEL: +33 (0)1 5658 

1054, WWW.CITYSEGWAYTOURS.COM 

STAY: MERCURE MONTMARTRE 

If the Moulin Rouge is calling, and you’re 

happy to forego an element of Parisian 

charm, the helpful staff and transport 

links make this a good value bolthole. Be 

fi rst to work off the buffet breakfast by 

walking up the Sacré Cœur hill. 

3 RUE CAULAINCOURT, TEL: +33 (0)1 

4469 7070, WWW.MERCURE.COM 

FLUTTER: 

HIPPODROME DE LONGCHAMP 

Europe’s richest horse race (Prix de l’Arc 

de Triomphe) stampedes into Paris on the 

fi rst weekend of October, but the tracks 

rumble all month if you fancy a fl utter to 

ease the pain of that exchange rate. 

ROUTE DES TRIBUNES, 

WWW.FRANCE GALOP.COM 

FLY TO PARIS (BEAUVAIS) FROM 20 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING OSLO (TORP) 

St Etienne 

EAT: MAISON FARINER 

In baguette country baking is a serious 

business and you can’t go wrong with a 

crusty rye and honey infused loaf from 

this local artisan. If the fruit tartelettes are 

unlikely to survive the walk back to the 

hotel, you can eat in. Open 6am 9pm. 

168 COURS FAURIEL, TEL: +33 (0)4 7746 

7935, WWW.FARINER.FR 

CHEER: A.S.S.E 

No, not a misspelled donkey, but the 

legendary football team, winners of 10 

French Championships. Soak up the 

atmosphere at the “green cauldron” 

stadium or in a local bar when the boys 

face Valenciannes at home this October. 

STADE GEOFFROY GUICHARD, 14 RUE 

PAUL ET PIERRE GUICHARD, WWW.ASSE.FR 

STAY: VILLA ROASSIEUX 

Snuggle up and feel your cares disappear 

at this charming Victorian style B&B 

(pictured) only 10 minutes from the city 

centre. The grand claw foot bath and 

garden vista make the Cedar room a 

favourite, but all the rooms are lovely. 

5 PASSAGE JEAN BAPTISTE COROT, 

TEL: +33 (0)4 7741 2087, 

WWW.VILLAROASSIEUX.FR 

VISIT: MUSEE D’ART ET 

D’INDUSTRIE 

From pretty ribbons through penny 

farthings to machine guns, unearth the 

city’s colourful history as a centre for 

industry and resistance at this impressive 

multimedia museum. 

2 PLACE LOUIS COMTE, 

TEL: +33 (0)4 7749 7300 

FLY TO ST ETIENNE (LYON) FROM PORTO 

CURRENCY EURO 

POPULATION 64 MILLION 

LANGUAGE FRENCH 

Je te 

présente mon 

ancienne 

petite-amie 

LET ME INTRODUCE 

YOU TO MY FORMER 

GIRLFRIEND 

Je te 

présente ma 

petite-amie 

ancienne 

LET ME INTRODUCE 

YOU TO MY ANCIENT 

GIRLFRIEND 

Say this… not this. 

3 flights / week 



Leeds-Limoges 

with Ryanair starting 28th March 2010 

> Information-bookings on 

www.ryanair.com 

Also departing from Limoges : 


every saturday in Summer 



seasonal weekly flight 

every saturday in Summer 

créd ts photo : C.D.T. Co rèze / Vi lage de Turenne FRANCE New flight 

Certified for the care 

of its customers 

during their stay in 

the airport terminal 


105

Diamonds Direct 

• Buy at market prices rather than retail 

• All stones are GIA, HRD and IGI certified 

• We offer a bespoke jewellery service 

• We can arrange accommodation for your visit 

(d.a.d.b v b a) 

Invites you to visit the Antwerp diamond market, where we will 

give you professional advice when choosing the perfect stone. 

For further information please contact Philip Verreydt or Katty Hendrickx 

Tel: +32 3 226 28 66 | Fax: +32 3 226 25 66 | Email: philipverreydt@skynet.be 

Open Monday - Saturday 

 

TIMELESS, LAID-BACK AND INTERNATIONAL – THE DESIGN HOTEL IN THE CITY CENTRE 

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WITH CUTTING-EDGE FACILITIES LUNCH OR DINNER BE DAZZLED BY THE CULINARY CREATIONS 

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For our full route map visit www.ryanair.com TEXT BY MATT ROBINSON 


GERMANY 


20 

The number of years, on 9 November, 

since the Berlin Wall fell. 

Berlin 

EAT: ANNE BLUME 

Scoring a table at this café/fl orist on a 

lazy Sunday afternoon is like fi nding that 

elusive odd sock. Brunch in Berlin is a big 

deal, and this charming corner bistro does 

it right. Don’t miss the book sharing tree; 

take a book, leave a book. 

83 KOLLWITZSTRASSE, TEL: +49 30 4404 

8749, WWW.CAFE ANNA BLUME.DE 

SEE: HOTEL MARIENBAD 

Art installations in hotel rooms are 

what the Marienbad is all about. Artists 

are invited to trade their wares and 

decorate their quarters in exchange 

for residency in this, one of Berlin’s 

most exclusive joints. 

69 AUGUSTSTRASSE, TEL: +49 30 243 4590 

SOMETHING TOURISTY: 

MAUERGUIDE 

Using the nifty Mauerguide (pictured), a 

hand held GPS system that offers fi lms 

clips, photos and audio content, you can 

now trace the former stretch of the Wall in 

hi tech style. Bikes are also available if you 

choose to trek the entire 163km. 

CORNER OF FRIEDRICHSTRASSE/ 

ZIMMERSTRASSE, TEL: +49 30 8871 3624, 

WWW.MAUERGUIDE.COM 

SOMETHING SPECIAL: 

RECREATE THE WALL 

Over 3,000 people have already signed 

up through Facebook to a group aiming to 

recreate the inner city area of the Berlin 

Wall using a chain of human bodies on 

9 November. Sign up to fl ash mob the Wall. 

CHECK FACEBOOK OR GOOGLE 

FLY TO BERLIN (SCHONEFELD) FROM EIGHT 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING MILAN (BERGAMO) 

Leipzig 

SIP: RIQUET 

The sight of two huge copper elephant 

heads crowning the entrance to this 

Viennese style coffee house (pictured) is 

the perfect initiation to the world of Riquet. 

It also serves the best pastries in town. 

1 SCHUHMACHERGASSCHEN, TEL: +49 

341 961 0000, WWW.RIQUETHAUS.DE 

SEE: ASISI 

Leipzig’s Panometer is showcasing the 

Brazilian rainforest as never seen before, 

using the world’s biggest 360° screen. The 

work of Berlin artist Yadegar Asisi, it’s as 

close as you’ll get to the real deal without 

the threat of being attacked by a monkey. 

114 RICHARD LEHMANN STRASSE, 

TEL: +49 341 121 3396, WWW.ASISI.DE 

SOMETHING HISTORIC: 

ST NIKOLAI CHURCH 

As the centre of the 1989 Monday 

demonstrations that proved integral 

in the overthrow of the GDR, Leipzig’s 

Nikolaikirche holds a sacred place in 

German history. 

3 NIKOLAIKIRCHHOF, TEL: +49 341 960 

5270, WWW.NIKOLAIKIRCHE LEIPZIG.DE 

SOMETHING SPECIAL: TRABIMANIA 

The legendary East German Trabant may 

be the automobile equivalent of slapstick 

comedy but it’s also the perfect way 

to celebrate 20 years since the tearing 

down of the Berlin Wall. Take a ride in one 

of these quintessentially East German 

claptraps with Trabimania. 

1 MERSEBURGER STRASSE, TEL: +49 347 

715 240, WWW.TRABIMANIA.DE 

FLY TO ALTENBURG (LEIPZIG) FROM FOUR 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING EDINBURGH 

Munich 

EAT: RESTAURANT AM 

CHINESISCHES TURM 

Much like its namesake tower 

constructed in London, based on 

Asian pagoda design and now settled 

in Germany this restaurant fuses the 

culinary best of several different cultures. 

3 ENGLISCHER GARTEN, TEL: +49 89 383 

8730, WWW.CHINESISCHER TURM.DE 

DRINK: FALK’S BAR 

As the only room in the stunning 

Bayerisches Hof to have escaped World 

War II unscathed, the Spiegelsaal (Mirror 

hall) is one of the most opulent hang outs 

in Munich. Stop at Falk’s bar, named after 

the former hotel owner Falk Volkhardt, and 

try the Vanilla Sky; it’s so good it’s evil. 

2 6 PROMENADEPLATZ, TEL: +49 89 212 

0956, WWW.BAYERISCHERHOF.DE 

STAY: HOTEL AM MARKT 

A stone’s throw from the central 

Marienplatz station, this historic 19th 

century structure with its marble clad 

walls, decorative frescoes and reasonably 

priced suites is worth splashing out on. 

6 HEILIGGEISTSTRASSE, TEL: +49 89 225 

014, WWW.HOTEL AM MARKT.EU 

SEE: AI WEIWEI 

As a founding member of the avant garde 

Stars movement, Ai Weiwei has made a 

signifi cant contribution to the Chinese 

modern art movement. Until 17 January 

2010 he is showing some of his new work 

(pictured) at Munich’s Haus der Kunst. 

1 PRINZREGENTENSTRASSE, TEL: +49 89 

2112 7113, WWW.HAUSDERKUNST.DE 

FLY TO MEMMINGEN (MUNICH WEST) FROM 

11 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BREMEN 

CURRENCY EURO 

POPULATION 82.4 MILLION 

LANGUAGE GERMAN 

Wir sind 

ein Volk! 

WE ARE ONE 

PEOPLE! 

Baut die 

Berliner 

Mauer 

wieder auf! 

REBUILD THE 

BERLIN WALL! 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


107

OUR LADY’S SHRINE, CO. MAYO, IRELAND 

Tel: +353 (0) 94 9388100 | Fax: +353 (0) 94 9388295 

www.knock-shrine.ie | Email: info@knock-shrine.ie 

WINTER PROGRAMME 

2nd Monday October - Last Saturday in April 

4 Public Masses each day 

Confessions from 11.00 - 13.00, 14.00 - 17.00 

All Night Vigil - Monday 7th December 

Eve of the Immaculate Conception 

New Offi ce & Bookshop now open at 101 Deansgate, Manchester, M3 2BQ 

Tel: 0161 819 2558 | Email: knockshrineoffi ce@btconnect.com 

KNOCK MUSEUM Captures the compelling 

story of the Knock Apparition of 1879, the fifteen 

ordinary people who witnessed this extraordinary 

event and the stories of the many pilgrims who 

have come to Knock since then. 

Opening Hours: May-Oct: 10am - 6pm daily • Nov-April: 12pm - 4pm 

Email: museum@knock-shrine.ie | Tel: +353 (0) 94 9375034 

Ideal base for touring the West 

• 70 En-Suite Bedrooms 

• 150 Seater Conference Centre 

• Four Seasons Restaurant 

• Groups welcome 

• Courtesy coach to/from Knock Airport 

• Open all Year 

SPECIAL 

OFFERS 

NOV/DEC 

3 B&B + 2 Dinner 

€159.00 p.p.s. 

CHRISTMAS 

4 Nights 

€675.00 p.p.s. 

Ballyhaunis Rd., Knock, Co. Mayo. | Tel: +353 (0) 94 9388088 

Fax: +353 (0) 94 9388044 | Email: info@knockhousehotel.ie | Web: www.knockhousehotel.ie

For our full route map visit www.ryanair.com TEXT BY PETER GEOGHEGAN 


IRELAND 


26 

The number of counties in 

the Republic of Ireland. 

Cork 

EAT: O’CONAILL’S CHOCOLATE 

A must for chocoholics, this boutique 

chocolatier (pictured) boasts over a 

dozen varieties of the sweet stuff. Push 

your preconceptions to one side and try 

the chilli it’s a real taste explosion. 

16B FRENCH CHURCH STREET, 

TEL: +353 (0)21 437 3407 

LISTEN: THE PAVILION 

Traditional music not your cup of tea/pint 

of stout? Then head along to this stylish 

modern bar and club in the Huguenot 

Quarter. Downstairs is a chilled out 

lounge, upstairs a popular live venue. 

13 CAREY’S LANE, TEL: +353 (0)21 427 

6230, WWW.PAVILIONCORK.COM 

STAY: THE IMPERIAL HOTEL 

Conveniently located in the heart of the 

city, this four star hotel mixes old world 

grandeur with modern luxury. But beware 

room 115: Irish hero Michael Collins 

spent his last night there before being 

assassinated the next day. 

SOUTH MALL, TEL: +353 (0)21 427 4040, 

WWW.FLYNNHOTELS.COM/IMPERIAL_HOTEL 

VISIT: CRAWFORD MUNICIPAL 

ART GALLERY 

This bright, airy converted 18th century 

customs house is home to one of 

Ireland’s premier art collections. After 

sampling work by Jack B Yeats, Paul 

Henry and James Barry in the gallery, 

retire to the restaurant for some of the 

best food to be found anywhere in Cork. 

EMMET PLACE, TEL: +353 (0)21 490 7855, 

WWW.CRAWFORDARTGALLERY.IE 

FLY TO CORK FROM FOUR DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING LONDON (GATWICK AND STANSTED) 

Dingle 

EAT: THE CHART HOUSE 

High quality, local produce is the order 

of the day in this atmospheric bistro. The 

seafood is always excellent and there’s 

plenty on offer for vegetarians, but it’s 

very popular, so book ahead. 

THE MALL, TEL: +353 (0)66 915 2255, 

WWW.THECHARTHOUSEDINGLE.COM 

IMBIBE: O’FLAHERTY’S 

Want an authentic drinking experience? 

This is an old fashioned pub right down 

to the singing barman. Proprietor Fergus 

O’Flaherty is a renowned balladeer and 

musician, so don’t be surprised if the trad 

sessions run into the wee small hours. 

BRIDGE STREET, TEL: +353 (0)669 151 983 

STAY: DINGLE SKELLIG HOTEL 

AND PENINSULA SPA 

Book a room with a view in this friendly 

family hotel on the edge of beautiful 

Dingle Bay (pictured). The luxurious spa 

is just the place to relax after a bracing 

morning dip with Fungie (see below) or, 

of course, after a late night on the town. 

ANNASCAUL ROAD, TEL: +353 (0)66 915 

0200, WWW.DINGLESKELLIG.COM 

DO: FUNGIE THE DOLPHIN TOURS 

First spotted by the town’s lighthouse 

keeper in 1983, this distinguished 

bottlenose dolphin christened Fungie 

has captivated Irish imaginations ever 

since. Contact Flannery’s wetsuit hire 

shop to organise an unforgettable early 

morning dolphin swim. 

COOLEEN, DINGLE TOWN, TEL: +353 

(0)66 915 1967 

FLY TO KERRY FROM FOUR DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING DUBLIN AND FRANKFURT (HAHN) 

Dublin 

EAT: THE LOBSTER POT 

This popular seafood restaurant 

specialises in Kilmore Quay crab and 

Dublin Bay prawns. Add in a slice of soda 

bread, a wedge of lemon and John Rigby’s 

pick from the extensive wine list and 

you’ll be in foodie heaven. 

9 BALLSBRIDGE TERRACE, TEL: +353 (0)1 

668 0025, WWW.THELOBSTERPOT.IE 

VISIT: DUBLIN WRITERS MUSEUM 

Joyce, Yeats, Beckett, Wilde… the list 

of famous Dublin writers is as long as 

the River Liffey. Among this museum’s 

many treasures are a fi rst draft of Bram 

Stoker’s Dracula, Brendan Behan’s union 

card and Mary Lavin’s teddy bear. 

18 19 PARNELL SQUARE NORTH, TEL: +353 

(0)1 872 2077, WWW.WRITERSMUSEUM.COM 

STAY: RADISSON BLU HOTEL 

AT DUBLIN AIRPORT 

You’ll never miss your fl ight if you stay here 

(pictured). Dublin airport is just minutes 

away and the there’s a handy 24 hour 

shuttle service to and from the airport. 

DUBLIN AIRPORT, TEL: +353 (0)1 844 

6000, WWW.RADISSONBLU.IE 

EXPERIENCE: 1916 REBELLION 

WALKING TOUR 

Join history buff Lorcan Collins for a stroll 

though a pivotal event in Irish history 

the 1916 Easter Rising. The tour takes in 

all the rebellion’s key spots, sparing none 

of the gory details along the way. 

STARTS INTERNATIONAL BAR, 23 

WICKLOW STREET, TEL +353 (0)8 6858 3847, 

WWW.1916RISING.COM 

FLY TO DUBLIN FROM 77 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING BRISTOL AND KRAKOW 

CURRENCY EURO 


LANGUAGE ENGLISH & IRISH GAELIC 

An té nach 

mbíonn láidir 

ní folláir dó 

bheith glic 

HE WHO IS NOT 

STRONG NEEDS 

TO BE CUNNING 

An té a phósfas 

an t-airgead, 

pósfaidh sé 

óinseach 

HE WHO MARRIES 

MONEY MARRIES 

A FOOL 


Deep-rooted tradition with a 

cosmopolitan twist, 

The Burlington Hotel 

is Dublin’s premier Luxury 

Hotel - a long-standing favourite 

of times past and present. 

Just a short stroll from Dublin’s 

City Centre, the R.D.S and 

Lansdowne Road/Aviva 

Stadium - the 02 Arena and 

Croke Park venues are within 

quick access by car, bus or taxi. 

The Burlington’s bars and 

restaurants are a buzzing hive 

of activity by night - the new 

Bellini’s bar adding a hint of 

panache to an evening where 

guests can sip a cocktail in a lowlit 

ambience, amidst the busy 

chatter of local clientele. 

An ideal base from which 

to explore the city and its 

surrounds. The Burlington is 

your home away from home. 

Rooms from 89euro 

For reservations call 

+353 1 618 5600 or log on to 

www.burlingtonhotel.ie 


109


A FAIR DEAL 

Aft er the economic troubles of this year, travellers and B&B owners have invented an 

innovative way of reducing accommodation costs through bartering 

The global economic slowdown is 

having a powerful impact on the 

tourism industry. The demand 

among travellers and holiday-makers 

for B&Bs and similarly small lodging 

organisations is on the grow; a clear signal of a 

trend that is shifting towards an informal, friendly 

and less expensive style of accommodation. 

Barter Week is an initiative launched by Italian 

tourism group www.bed-and-breakfast.it to 

promote such organisations. It runs from 16 to 22 

November 2009 and will involve a vast number 

of Italian B&Bs, which have enthusiastically 

welcomed the idea. 

Bartering is indeed still very common at 

present, owing much of its renewed popularity 

to the advent of the internet. The popularity of 

bartering websites has soared as consumers are 

looking to new methods of shopping to counter 

the effects of the credit crunch. Swap parties 

– that is, private or public events in which people 

meet to exchange all sorts of goods and services 

– have also developed in the USA and are quickly 

spreading to other countries. 

From 16 to 22 November, in thousands 

of Italian B&Bs, you can barter goods and 

services for your stay. Such things as homemade 

marmalade or a DVD collection are examples 

From 16 to 22 Novembe 

2009, in thousands of 

Italian B&Bs, you can 

barter goods and 

services for your stay 

of barter-able goods. Alternatively, the 

provision of gardening or plumbing 

services, or even music lessons, can be 

equally desirable to B&B owners. 

The options and possibilities are indeed 

infi nite. All one has to do is confi dently mak 

or her own bartering offer while making sur 

it is serious, respectful and original. The Bar 

Week does indeed promise to be a unique event. It 

will contribute to creating a large network of brand 

new relationships and friendships, while giving 

every traveller the opportunity to experience and 

enjoy Italy and its people.

PHOTO © CARLO VALENTINI 

For our full route map visit www.ryanair.com TEXT BY JAMES WILLIAMS 


ITALY 


12.1 

The record breaking price in millions of dollars (€8.5 million) paid 

for a 1957 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa, sold at auction earlier this year. 

Florence 

EAT: NERBONE 

Nestled among the bountiful food stalls at 

the Mercato Centrale, Nerbone has been 

serving up its juicy tripe sandwiches and 

boiled beef buns since opening day back in 

the 19th century. Grab one of the few tables 

or just eat standing up with the locals. 

STAND 292, MERCATO CENTRALE 

STAY: RIVA LOFTS 

Formerly a set of artisans’ workshops, 

these luxury studio suites (pictured) 

occupy a leafy spot on the River Arno just 

outside the city centre. Kitted out with 

modernist furniture, they also feature 

kitchenettes, Jacuzzis, private terraces 

and a stylish white sandstone pool. 

98 VIA BACCIO BANDINELLI, 

TEL: +39 055 713 0272, WWW.RIVALOFTS.COM 

SEE: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO 

MUSEUM 

Explore the creations of iconic Florentine 

shoe designer Salvatore Ferragamo. 

Housed in one of the city’s grandest 

palazzos, this museum shows off the 

footwear that has attracted such stars as 

Sofi a Loren and Audrey Hepburn. 

5R PIAZZA SANTA TRINITA, TEL: +39 055 

336 0456, WWW.SALVATOREFERRAGAMO.IT 

SHOP: PAPERBACK EXCHANGE 

This store behind the Duomo is packed 

full of new and second hand titles. 

Stocking only English works and offering 

a generous trade in system, it’s a hit with 

students and bargain hunters alike. 

4R VIA DELLE OCHE, TEL: +39 055 293 460, 

WWW.PAPEX.IT 

FLY TO PISA (FLORENCE) FROM 40 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING MARRAKESH 

Modena 

EAT: ANTICA PASTICCERIA S BIAGIO 

In business since the 19th century, this 

small, family run shop sells all manner of 

confections, from the local Barozzi cake, 

to chocolates delicately infused with the 

town’s famous aceto balsamico. 

77 VIA EMILIA CENTRO, TEL: +39 059 217 284 

STAY: HOTEL REAL FINI BAIA DEL RE 

Located in countryside on the outskirts of 

Modena, this stylish four star is renowned 

for its food and comfortable rooms. 

Sample some Modenese specialities over 

dinner, or just unwind in the spa, complete 

with Finnish sauna and Turkish bath. 

1684 VIA VIGNOLESE, TEL: +39 059 479 

2111, WWW.HOTELBAIADELRE.COM 

DO: GALLERIA FERRARI 

Drive your (not worthy) hire car down to 

the offi cial Ferrari museum (pictured) 

in Maranello, where 40 of the gleaming 

motors are on display. Browse models like 

the 750 Monza right up to today’s Formula 

1 beasts, then splurge on all manner of 

red and white merchandise. 

43 VIA DINO FERRARI, TEL: +39 053 694 

3204, WWW.GALLERIAFERRARI.COM 

SEE: GALLERIA ESTENSE 

Roam the grand hallways of the Galleria 

Estense, which houses centuries of 

paintings owned by Modena’s Este family. 

Also check out the biblioteca, home to 

some of Italy’s most valuable books, 

including the Bible of Borso d’Este, the 

most decorated bible in the world. 

337 PIAZZALE SANT’AGOSTINO, 

TEL: +39 059 222 248 

FLY TO BOLOGNA FROM 23 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING BARI AND VALENCIA 

Rome 

DRINK: CINECAFFE 

Perfect for those who know their Fellini 

from their Bertolucci, this stylish café is set 

inside a popular cinema. Sip on a coffee 

as you look out onto the Villa Borghese 

gardens and fi ght the urge to dive into the 

Trevi Fountain to re enact La Dolce Vita. 

1 LARGO MARCELLO MASTROIANNI, 

TEL: +39 064 201 6224, WWW.CINECAFFE.IT 

STAY: CROSSING CONDOTTI 

Just 50m from the Spanish steps and 

with only fi ve rooms, attention to detail is 

everything at this exclusive hotel. Rooms 

boast a refi ned style (pictured) and come 

with free wi fi , soft drinks and a set of fi ne 

china should you need to drink like royalty. 

28 VIA MARIO DE’FIORI, TEL: +39 066 992 

0633, WWW.CROSSINGCONDOTTI.COM 

SEE: MAXXI 

It may not be opening offi cially until 

next year, but the Zaha Hadid designed 

national museum of architecture and 

contemporary art is worth visiting not 

only for its warm up events but also its 

exterior. Running until 21 November is a 

retrospective of architect Carlo Scarpa. 

2F VIA GUIDO RENI, TEL: +39 06 321 

9089, WWW.MAXXI.DARC.BENICULTURALI.IT 

CLIMB: VITTORIANO 

Arguably one of the capital’s biggest 

eyesores, “The Typewriter” building is a 

monument to Italian unifi cation and was 

completed in 1911. As well as hosting 

exhibitions on art and Italian history, it 

offers a fantastic view of the city. 

PIAZZA VENEZIA, TEL: +39 066 780 664 

FLY TO ROME (CIAMPINO) FROM 29 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING CAGLIARI 

CURRENCY EURO 


LANGUAGE ITALIAN 

Sei nel 

mio 

cuore! 

YOU ARE IN MY 

HEART! 

Sei nel 

mio 

culto! 

YOU ARE IN MY 

CULT! 



111

Contact us for more information 

or for a quotation... 

ul. 5 Lipca 11/1 • 70-374 Szczecin 

tel: +48 91 485 06 56 

tel: +48 602 31 45 24 

email: info@stomatolog-szczecin.pl 

www.stomatolog-szczecin.pl 

Dent-Mar is one of 

the newest dental clinics 

with very high standards 

and quality, using the latest 

technologies and materials... 

Cosmetic treatment 

Preventive treatment 

Porcelain crowns and bridges 

Dentures 

Surgery 

Implants 

Orthodontics 

Periodontics

For our full route map visit www.ryanair.com TEXT BY DUNCAN RHODES 


POLAND 


20,000 

Bydgoszcz 

EAT: STARY PORT 13 

It’s hard to go wrong at this vast temple to 

tucker, where tasty grilled meats and fi sh 

are served up under the wooden beams of 

an erstwhile granary. With Tyskie served 

in litre glasses, this is also a great place to 

start a love affair with Polish piwo. 

13 UL STARY PORT, TEL: +48 52 321 6208, 

WWW.STARYPORT13.PL 

DRINK: KREDENS PUB 

Sophisticated it ain’t, but in this mammoth 

boozer decorated with sewing machines 

and retro lampshades you’ll fi nd all the 

ingredients of an authentic Polish night 

out: cheap beer, sozzled customers and 

dark corners, plus the odd rock concert. 

8 WELNIANY RYNEK, TEL: +48 52 373 

2434, WWW.KREDENSPUB.PL 

STAY: POD ORLEM 

Baroque and Renaissance style 

architecture, stained glass windows and 

grand pianos make “Under the Eagle” the 

most prestigious place to lay your head in 

town. And it’s within stumbling distance of 

Bydgoszcz’s best bars and restaurants. 

14 UL GDANSKA, TEL: +48 52 583 6801, 

WWW.HOTELPODORLEM.PL 

SEE: CATHEDRAL OF ST MARTIN 

AND ST NICHOLAS 

An interior to wow even the most 

uncultured visitor. A masterpiece of design 

(pictured), the rich colours combine with 

the Baroque altarpiece and Gothic nave to 

create inspirational results. 

2 UL FARNA, TEL: +48 52 322 4586, 

WWW.KATEDRABYDGOSKA.PL 

FLY TO BYDGOSZCZ FROM SIX 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BIRMINGHAM 

The number of letters sent to officials protesting Madonna’s concert in Warsaw this summer. 

The singer’s irrerevent style doesn’t go down well with the country’s bible bashers. 

Gdansk 

EAT: KLUB WIELORYB 

Swordfi sh and sirloin are served up among 

sirens and sea monsters in this lauded 

Sopot restaurant (pictured), loosely 

themed around the contents of a whale’s 

belly. Captain Nemo was allegedly inspired 

by a Polish offi cer and here’s your chance 

to join in on an underwater adventure. 

2 UL PODJAZD, SOPOT, TEL: +48 58 551 

5722, WWW.KLUB WIELORYB.COM.PL 

DRINK: U LITERATOW CAFE 

Moustachioed sea dogs swig beer and 

play chess in this archetypal Baltic boozer 

cum café. Order a Wisniowka vodka and 

challenge one of them to a game if you 

dare. But whatever you do, don’t accept an 

invitation to go fi shing on Black Lake. 

UL MARIACKA 50, TEL: +48 58 301 8922 

SEE: THE AMBER MUSEUM 

Much of Gdansk’s prosperity is owed 

to amber, known in these parts as 

“Baltic Gold”. This museum, housed in 

what was once a torture tower, traces 

the importance of the stone back to 

Mycenaean times. Your ticket also buys 

you entrance into the Jail Museum. 

FOREGATE OF ULICA DLUGA, TEL: +48 58 

767 9100, WWW.MHMG.GDA.PL 

VISIT: WESTERPLATTE 

70 years ago, on 1 September 1939, the 

fi rst shots of World War II were fi red right 

here as German ships bombed the Polish 

peninsula. War buffs come from far and 

wide to visit this historic spot, where a 25 

metre monument marks the fallen. 

WESTERPLATTE 

FLY TO GDANSK FROM EIGHT DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING ALICANTE AND EDINBURGH 

Wroclaw 

EAT: AKROPOL 

This upmarket eatery on the charming 

Salt Square serves up some of the fi nest 

calamari this side of Santorini, and you’ll 

fi nd plenty of other Greek treats to choose 

from, too. Smooth service and a solid 

choice of wines complement your meal. 

18/19 PLAC SOLNY, TEL: +48 71 788 8142, 

WWW.AKROPOLRESTAURANT.PL 

DRINK: CAFE MANANA 

Botticelli’s Venus smiles approvingly over 

Wroclaw’s foremost den of debauchery 

(pictured), which is packed with sex 

kittens and Casanovas every weekend. The 

soundtrack hasn’t changed in years and 

100 zloty says you’ll hear “It don’t mean a 

thing, if you ain’t got that swing”. 

11 UL SWIETA MIKOLAJA, TEL: +48 71 343 

4370, WWW.MANANA CAFE.PL 

VISIT: RACLAWICE PANORAMA 

This vast panoramic painting eulogises 

the time Polish peasants whooped some 

Ruski behind. Carted all the way from 

Lviv, it occupies a special place in all true 

Poles’ hearts. The ticket gets you into the 

National Museum, too. 

11 UL PURKYNIEGO, TEL: +48 71 344 

2344, WWW.PANORAMARACLAWICKA.PL 

SEE: GNOMES 

An army of spritely statues has slowly 

been spreading throughout Wroclaw since 

2005. These mascots of the city strike 

curious poses on street corners, cling from 

lampposts and are even known to ride the 

tram... Keep your eyes peeled. 

VARIOUS LOCATIONS, WWW.KRASNALE.PL 

FLY TO WROCLAW FROM 16 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING GLASGOW (PRESTWICK) 

CURRENCY ZLOTY 


LANGUAGE POLISH 

Jesteśmy 

chórem 

wujów 

WE ARE A CHOIR 

OF UNCLES 

Jesteśmy 

worem 

chujów 

WE ARE A SACK OF 

MALE GENITALIA 


dental clinic 

Neo Dentica are one of the biggest 

and most modern private clinics in 

Poland. Our success is based on 

well-equipped and high-end medical 

equipment and experienced doctors 

we off er the highest level of dental 

treatment for reasonable prices. 

WE OFFER: 

• Diagnostics 

• Conservative dentistry 

• Root canal treatment 

• Prosthetics 

• Gum diseases 

• Surgery 

• Implant treatment 

• Orthodontic treatment 

• Aesthetic dentistry 

• Teeth whitening 

• Anesthesia 

POLAND, LODZ 

SZPARAGOWA STREET 10 

0048 602 770 150 

0048 42 254 64 21 

www.neodentica.pl 

neodentica@neodentica.pl 


113

PHOTOGRAPHY © HELEN CATHCART 

For our full route map visit www.ryanair.com TEXT BY SCOTT BERMAN 


SCANDINAVIA 

SWEDEN, NORWAY & DENMARK 


112 

The number of years since the fi rst motion picture was 

produced in this region (1897 in Denmark). 

DENMARK 

Aarhus 

EAT: RESTAURANT KOHAL 

This well known local establishment 

celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2007. 

Traditions and fl avours abound: roast 

beef with plenty of remoulade, Icelandic 

marinated herring, smoked eel with 

scrambled eggs you get the picture. 

152 154 JÆGERGARDSGADE, 

TEL: +45 861 2481, WWW.KOHALEN.DK 

STAY: RADISSON SAS 

SCANDINAVIA 

This hotel (pictured) is a self described 

“soothing base” in Denmark’s second city. 

The key is location it’s close to cultural 

attractions that include the Aarhus Art 

Museum and Music Hall, as well as Old 

Town, a fascinating historical attraction. 

1 MARGRETHEPLADSEN, TEL: +45 8936 

2340, WWW.RADISSONBLU.COM/HOTEL AARHUS 

SEE: AARHUS CITY HALL 

Check out this striking building from 1941, 

designed by the legendary Arne Jacobsen 

and Eric Moller: modernism when it was 

fresh and provocative. Don’t miss the 

view from the 60m high tower. Tickets are 

required for the two daily tours to the top. 

2 RADHUSPLADSEN, TEL: +45 8940 

2000, WWW.VISITAARHUS.COM 

BE SEEN: CAFE PARADIS 

Thanks to its late opening hours and three 

fl oors of hangout and disco space, this 

place is fi rst in the hearts of many local 

clubbers. Open all night on weekends. 

9 PARADISGADE, TEL: +45 8613 7111, 

WWW.CAFEPARADIS.DK 

FLY TO AARHUS FROM FOUR DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING LONDON (STANSTED) 

SWEDEN 

Gothenburg 

EAT: STYRBORD BABORD 

Eat and club on the 19th century boat 

“Starboard Port”, which is berthed at 

Kungsportsplatsen. Inside, there’s a festive 

crowd, entertainment and music, while 

outside there are views of Kungsportsbron, 

a stone bridge over the city’s moat. 

1 KUNGSPORTSPLATSEN, TEL: +46 (0)31 

711 2410, WWW.STYRBORDBABORD.SE 

STAY: AVALON HOTEL 

Gothenburg’s design hotel boasts a 

relaxed attitude, sleek fi xtures, pop art 

and automated hall chimes as you walk 

by. And yes, that’s a small glass swimming 

pool cantilevered off the top fl oor. 

9 KUNGSTORGET, TEL: +46 (0)31 751 

0200, WWW.AVALONHOTEL.SE 

SEE: ROHSSKA MUSEUM 

OF DESIGN 

Browse everything (pictured) from 

historic metal and ceramic pieces to 

industrial design. Whether you’re into 

ancient Egypt, Nordic quilting, 1970s 

kitsch, or contemporary citrus squeezers, 

you can fi nd it here. 

37 39 VASAGATAN, TEL: +46 (0)31 368 

3150, WWW.DESIGNMUSEUM.SE 

BE SEEN: MAGNUS & MAGNUS 

This popular hang out is hip yet relaxed; 

cool yet cosy, and is the place where many 

of the city’s creative types, fashionistas 

and design people gather. There’s a nice 

backyard bar area, too. 

8 MAGASINSGATAN, TEL: +46 (0)31 133 

000, WWW.MAGNUSMAGNUS.SE 

FLY TO GOTHENBURG CITY FROM 10 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING KLAGENFURT 

NORWAY 

Oslo 

EAT: DELICATESSEN 

This tapas bar, opened 10 years ago, is 

a local institution. The menu features 

scampi, cod, chorizo and grilled entrecôte, 

as well as some good Spanish red wines. 

Cap off your day or fuel up for clubbing. 

8 SONDREGATE, TEL: +47 2271 4546, 

WWW.DELICATESSEN.NO 

STAY: GRAND HOTEL OSLO 

This 135 year old duchess with a rich 

history is touted as “proud and venerable”. 

The hotel (pictured) is also elegant and 

opulent, and conveniently located right in 

the city centre near cultural must sees. 

31 KARL JOHANS GATE, TEL: +47 2321 

2000, WWW.GRAND.NO 

SEE: OLAF RYES PLACE 

Head over to the trendy Grünerløkka 

quarter and people watch at this cosy city 

park square alongside Thorvald Meyers 

Gate. Weather permitting, students, 

bohemians, creative types and others 

hang out between forays to the nearby 

fashion shops, cafés and restaurants. 

1 JERNBANETORGET, TEL: +47 81 530 

555, WWW.VISITOSLO.COM 

BE SEEN: BLA JAZZ CLUB 

Locals in the know heartily recommend 

Blå jazz club, also in Grünerløkka, which 

boasts DJs at weekends and live music. 

Not so long ago, Blå was ranked among 

the world’s 100 best jazz clubs in Down 

Beat magazine. Find out why. 

9C BRENNERIVELEN, TEL: +47 40 004 

277, WWW.BLAAOSLO.NO 

FLY TO OSLO (RYGGE AND TORP) FROM 25 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING MILAN (BERGAMO) 

CURRENCY SWEDISH, NORWEGIAN AND 

DANISH CROWNS 

POPULATION SWEDEN: 9.2 MLN; NORWAY: 

4.8 MLN; DENMARK: 5.5 MLN 

LANGUAGES AT LEAST SEVEN 

May I 

offer you 

another 

Tuborg? 

Hans 

Christian 

who? 


Hotels with 

a personality! 

35 Hotels at 

30 destinations 

throughout Sweden 

Alvesta • Anderstorp 

Arboga • Eskilstuna 

Göteborg • Halmstad 

Helsingborg • Hässleholm 

Insjön • Jönköping 

Kalmar • Karlskoga 

Karlskrona • Kristianstad 

Kungälv • Lidköping 

Malmö • Mariestad 

Mora • Simrishamn 

Stockholm • Sölvesborg 

Tingsryd • Trollhättan 

Tällberg • Uddevalla 

Vetlanda • Vimmerby 

Västerås • Åmål 

BOOK NOW! 

www.swedenhotels.se 

+46-771 777 800 


115


HAVEN’T YOU 

SEEN IT YET? 

Barceló Raval, in the centre of Barcelona 

Hotel 

I 

f you still haven’t seen it, 

or even if you want to see 

it again, come to the most 

spectacular hotel right in the 

heart of Barcelona, in the 

coolest area of the city. Come 

to the Barceló Raval! 

This cylindrical building 

dominates the Rambla del 

Raval, and offers breathtaking 

360° views over the city from 

its roof terrace and pool. 

Experience the modern 

design of its rooms, with 

enormous windows providing 

panoramic views, innovative 

materials and the latest 

technologies. Do not miss your 

own Nespresso machine so you 

can wake up to the smell of 

freshly made coffee, and your 

own iPod dock. 

Also a hip cocktail lounge, 

the B Lounge, with innovative 

avant-garde tapas, and the best 

choice of cocktails to enjoy its 

live DJ sessions at night. You 

will fi nd no better atmosphere 

in Barcelona. 

Take advantage of the 

Braceló Raval’s offers now, 

starting from just €107! 

WWW.BARCELORAVAL.COM

For our full route map visit www.ryanair.com TEXT BY TOMAS ROMERO 


SPAIN 


60 

The percentage of Spanish politicians who are either overweight or clinically 

obese according to a recent study by the Spanish Heart Foundation. 

Alicante 

EAT: LA ERETA 

Walk up Mount Benacantil, which 

overlooks the old town, and admire the 

avant garde styling of la Ereta (pictured). 

Alternatively, just grab a taxi, and a table 

with a view at the park’s stylish restaurant. 

CASTILLO DE SANTA BARBARA, 

TEL: +34 965 143 250, WWW.LAERETA.ES 

DRINK: TERRAZA LOUNGE 

SENZONE 

This rooftop bar atop the city’s only 

fi ve star restaurant doesn’t let the side 

down. Overlooked by the Castle of Santa 

Bárbara and steps away from the old 

town, it’s the perfect place to drop in for a 

cocktail and perhaps enjoy the pool if the 

weather is warm enough. 

7 CALLE RAFAEL ALTAMIRA, 

TEL: +34 965 146 570, WWW.HOSPES.COM 

STAY: HOTEL ALBAHIA 

Located within a pristine enclave along 

the coast, this hotel is a mere fi ve 

minutes from Alicante’s city centre. More 

importantly, it has direct access to three 

quiet coves and is located only 300m 

from Albufereta beach. 

6 SOL NACIENTE, TEL: +34 965 155 979, 

WWW.ALBAHIA.COM 

LEARN: MARQ 

Voted European Museum of the Year in 

2004, the Provincial Archaeology Museum 

of Alicante still manages to impress with 

a unique exhibition of the province’s rich 

archaeological history. 

PLAZA DR GOMEZ ULLA, TEL: +34 965 

149 000, WWW.MARQALICANTE.COM 

FLY TO ALICANTE FROM 49 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING EAST MIDLANDS AND FEZ 

Girona 

EAT: CASA MARIETA 

Offering guests traditional home cooking 

and a warm welcome since 1892, this 

local favourite has an immense dining 

hall where you can enjoy over 40 dishes 

inspired by the colourful Catalan 

countryside and coast. 

5 6 PLACA INDEPENDENCIA, TEL: +34 

972 201 016, WWW.CASAMARIETA.COM 

STAY: LES CABANES ALS ARBRES 

Inspired by the tree homes of Indonesia’s 

remote Korowai tribe, these octagonal 

cabins (pictured) offer guests a similar 

detachment from the real world nesting 

them three metres up the trunk of a 

Douglas fi r. From €77 a night. 

CARRETERA DE VALLCLARA, SANT 

HILARI SACALM, TEL: +34 625 411 409, 

WWW.CABANESALSARBRES.COM 

SEE: THE CITY WALLS 

Stroll along the city’s ancient walls and 

enjoy spectacular views. Bordering the 

historic centre on the east, certain parts 

of the structure date from the ninth 

century. Sensible shoes recommended. 

ACCESS POINTS AROUND THE CITY 

SOMETHING CLEANSING: 

ARAB BATHS 

Built in 1194 and refurbished in 1929, this 

building was originally constructed to 

imitate a classic Muslim bathhouse. Over 

the years it has also served as a hideout, a 

convent kitchen and a laundry, making it a 

very interesting building to visit. 

CARRER FERRAN EL CATOLIC, TEL: +34 

972 213 262, WWW.BANYSARABS.ORG 

FLY TO BARCELONA (GIRONA) FROM 64 

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING GRAZ AND LEEDS 

Seville 

EAT: RESTAURANTE SANTA CRUZ 

This popular restaurant in the picturesque 

district of the same name offers light 

tapas or late night dining to a mixed 

crowd of regulars and the fortunate 

passers by who decide to drop in. 

PLAZA DE LOS VENERABLES, TEL: +34 

954 223 583, WWW.BARRIOSANTACRUZ.COM 

DRINK: SOL Y SOMBRA 

Found in the heart of Triana, the 

historical home of Flamenco dancing, 

this bar and restaurant concerns itself 

with two more Andalusian staples: jamón 

(dry cured ham) and bullfi ghting. Hams 

cover the ceiling while the bullfi ghters 

cover the walls. 

151 CALLE CASTILLA, TRIANA, TEL: +34 954 

333 935, WWW.TABERNASOLYSOMBRA.COM 

STAY: HOTEL INGLATERRA 

Just like its namesake, England, this hotel 

(pictured) has spent years (150 to be 

exact) perfecting its table manners and 

profi ciency of the English language in 

order to make your stay as luxurious and 

accommodating as possible. 

7 PLAZA NUEVA, TEL: +34 954 224 970, 

WWW.HOTELINGLATERRA.ES 

SOMETHING RELAXING: 

JARDINES DE SAN TELMO 

The site of the famous Ibero American 

Fair of 1929, these lush gardens still form 

part of the grounds to the opulent San 

Telmo Palace, providing shady relief from 

the late autumn sun. 

BETWEEN AVENIDA DE MARIA LUISA AND 

AVENIDA DE LA RABIDA 

FLY TO SEVILLE FROM 15 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING DUSSELDORF (WEEZE) 

CURRENCY EURO 


LANGUAGE SPANISH 

Estoy como 

un pez en 

el agua 

I’M VERY 

COMFORTABLE 

Estoy pez 

I KNOW 

NOTHING 


SPAIN 

PROPERTY 

OWNERS CAN 

SAVE MONEY 

For €29, Taxes Online 

can provide an effi cient 

cost eff ective service for 

you, whether you are 

a sole owner, or one of 

multiple owners of a 

property in Spain. 

Our website provides 

you with a simple 

method of estimating 

that tax and optionally a 

method for us to pay it 

on your behalf. 

info@taxesonline.es 

Tel: +(34) 660 30 97 97 


117

Ice Works are new and modern serviced apartments located in the heart of Leeds 

City centre, off ering a home away from home, with all the modern conveniences 

you expect from city centre living. 

• Spacious and luxurious. 

• Privacy with freedom to come and go as you wish. 

• Ideal for midweek corporate living or a weekend city break. 

• 4 mins walk to “Harvey Nic’s”, 2 mins to the bars and restaurants of Call Lane. 

• Convenience store located on the ground fl oor for all your self catering needs. 

Why not book one of our serviced apartments? 

Prices from £69/night + long stay rates available 

Call: 08453 374969 

Click: www.servicedleedsapartments.com 

ICE Works 

Luxury Serviced Apartments 

Leeds City Centre 

“Your luxury home away from home” 

Apex Hotels 

Chic and stylish 4 star hotels 

in London, Edinburgh and Dundee. 

• 7 hotels in great city centre locations 

• Award winning restaurants 

• Great Short Break rates and offers 

• Kids stay and eat free at selected hotels 

Book online at 

www.apexhotels.co.uk 

or call T 0845 365 0000 

to ensure you 

get the best 

Apex Hotels London Edinburgh Dundee 

✓

For our full route map visit www.ryanair.com TEXT BY MARIA GARBUTT-LUCERO 


UNITED KINGDOM 


113 

The number of years that sleepy Northumberland town Berwick upon Tweed was 

allegedly offi cially at war with Russia, from 1853 to 1966, due to a bureaucratic error. 

Edinburgh 

EAT: 21212 

This new venue (pictured) opened by 

acclaimed chef Paul Kitching is both 

quirky and high quality enough to appeal 

to snobs and anti snobs alike. 

3 ROYAL TERRACE, TEL: +44 (0)131 523 

1030, WWW.21212RESTAURANT.CO.UK 

DRINK: SYGN 

This hard to fi nd bar (look for the pink 

and white sign) serves some lovely food 

try the duck and pineapple curry but it 

is a superb exponent of cocktails, bringing 

in the punters on the weekends for DJs 

and dancing and becoming a refi ned, laid 

back drinking hole during the week. 

15 CHARLOTTE LANE, TEL: +44 (0)131 

225 6060, WWW.SYGN.CO.UK 

STAY: TEN HILL PLACE 

A refreshing departure from hotels that 

think they need to dazzle guests with 

excessively elaborate decorations or 

pointless gimmicks, this is a hotel for 

adults who want nothing more than a 

comfortable, stylish and quiet location. 

10 HILL PLACE, TEL: +44 (0)131 662 

2080, WWW.TENHILLPLACE.COM 

DO: AULD REEKIE TOURS 

Although stunningly beautiful, Edinburgh 

also has a dark and possibly haunted 

underbelly. Take one of Auld Reekie’s 

tours to visit the South Bridge vaults, or 

see where witches were persecuted and 

sites of ghostly apparitions. Perfect for 

Halloween, or any time you fancy a scare. 

TEL: +44 (0)131 557 4700, 

WWW.AULDREEKIETOURS.COM 

FLY TO EDINBURGH FROM 39 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING BILLUND AND MALAGA 

Liverpool 

EAT: SIMPLY HEATHCOTES 

With a steady stream of awards coming 

in since opening in its striking glass and 

stone building (including the Michelin 

Guide’s Bib Gourmand), Paul Heathcote’s 

Simply venue serves up delicious dishes 

in a family friendly setting. 

BEETHAM PLAZA, 25 THE STRAND, 

TEL: +44 (0)151 236 3536, 

WWW.HEATHCOTES.CO.UK/SIMPLY 

DRINK: THE CAVERN CLUB 

“The most famous club in the world”, 

it calls itself. Surely you know it? It’s 

where Brian Epstein fi rst saw the Beatles 

performing back in 1961. Even today, there 

are plenty of secret performances by big 

name bands to surprise lucky visitors. 

10 MATHEW STREET, TEL: +44 (0)151 236 

1965, WWW.CAVERNCLUB.ORG 

STAY: HARD DAYS NIGHT HOTEL 

After partying in the Cavern, lay your head 

to rest at this fab four star (pictured). The 

comfort and service make it worthwhile 

whether you’re a Beatles fan or not. 

CENTRAL BUILDINGS, NORTH JOHN 

STREET, TEL: +44 (0)151 236 1964, 

WWW.HARDDAYSNIGHTHOTEL.COM 

SEE: BUG WORLD EXPERIENCE 

As yet unique in the UK, this insectarium 

takes visitors through a series of vivid 

environments introducing them to the 

world of bugs. Check out the giant hissing 

cockroaches that perform at “Bug Idol”. 

THE GRAND HALL, THE COLONNADES, 

ALBERT DOCK, TEL: +44 (0)151 708 4938, 

WWW.BUGWORLDEXPERIENCE.CO.UK 

FLY TO LIVERPOOL FROM 45 DESTINATIONS, 

INCLUDING BERGERAC AND GRANADA JAEN 

London 

EAT: LA TROUVAILLE 

Meaning “the fi nd” in French, this venue 

lives up to its name, with intriguing dishes 

such as gazpacho with basil sorbet sitting 

comfortably alongside more traditional 

treats such as sirloin steak. 

12A NEWBURGH, TEL: +44 (0)20 7287 

4170, WWW.LATROUVAILLE.CO.UK 

DRINK: ALBERT & PEARL 

Exemplifying British eccentricity, this 

quirkily decorated pub is perfect for a pint 

with a friend. Leave room for some British 

grub: mushrooms on toast, Welsh rarebit 

or a pint of prawns being popular choices. 

181 UPPER STREET, TEL: +44 (0)20 7354 

9993, WWW.ALBERTANDPEARL.COM 

STAY: RADISSON SAS HOTEL 

LONDON STANSTED AIRPORT 

Boarding fl ights in the morning is one of 

life’s least pleasant experiences, so why not 

make it easier by staying a stone’s throw 

from check in? Radisson’s Stansted hotel 

(pictured) has comfortable rooms, several 

restaurants and an impressive bar. 

WALTHAM CLOSE, TEL: +44 (0)1279 661 

012, WWW.RADISSONBLU.CO.UK 

SHOP: KINGLY COURT 

A cute mall featuring restaurants, sweet 

shops, second hand stores and jewellery 

making courses. Check out Stromboli’s 

Circus for some great bric a brac and 

Candy Cakes for what must be the world’s 

yummiest cupcakes. 

JUST OFF CARNABY STREET, 

WWW.CARNABY.CO.UK 

FLY TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND 

STANSTED) FROM OVER 100 DESTINATIONS 

AROUND THE RYANAIR NETWORK 

CURRENCY POUND 


LANGUAGE ENGLISH 

Who ate 

all the 

pies? 

Who ate 

all the 

peas? 


Experience True Luxury 

Hard Days Night Hotel 

Liverpool’s Exclusive 

Beatles Inspired Hotel 

SPECIAL FESTIVE OFFER 

FOR RYANAIR READERS 

Stay for £80.00 between 

21/12/09 and 31/1/10 

Call 0808 168 6669 quoting 

Ryainair to make a reservation. 

(Subject to Availability) 

www.harddaysnighthotel.com 


119

Christmas Spirit in Stockholm 

Stockholm is known for summer’s 

midnight sun when the sun almost 

never sets. But the city is at least 

as exotic in the winter. 

Cafés and restaurants are filled 

with candles and the lucky ones 

may also experience snow 

covered buildings and smooth, 

sparkling ice. Discover the exotic 

midday darkness! 

Out of the ordinary… 

Creative Christmas trees or a 

café with therapeutic light are 

just a few of the things you can 

experience during the Stockholm 

winter. 

IGLO LIGHT CAFÉ: The best place 

for the winter weary to start the 

day is at Iglo. Cheer up in the 

company of friends with light 

therapy and a fortifying organic 

breakfast. A pleasant, memorable 

experience. Reserve your place in 

the sun. Hornstulls strand 1 

CREATIVE CHRISTMAS TREE EX- 

HIBIT: Get tips and ideas for your 

own Christmas tree. Well-known 

Swedes each decorate a Christmas 

tree. View the results in the hotel 

lobby. 

Nov 27 – Dec 25. 

Hotell Birger Jarl, Tulegatan 8 

 

Swedish Christmas 

smorgasbord on 

land and sea 

Cruise through Stockholm’s 

beautiful archipelago or indulge 

in the city. Here some tips: 

GRANDS VERANDA, GRAND 

HOTEL: 

A traditional, high-quality Christmas 

smorgasbord at this luxury 

hotel. The view of the Royal 

Palace and Old Town is a bonus. 

Blasieholmen 

CHRISTMAS SMORGASBORD 

CRUISE: 

Experience the Swedish archipelago 

aboard a classic steamboat 

from the turn of the last century. 

Christmas smorgasbord is served 

during lunch and dinner tours. 

Strömma Kanalbolaget 

RICHARD RYAN/SVB 

Christmas 

markets 

... are held around 

the city four weekends 

before Christmas. 

This year starting 

November 28. Here 

are some examples: 

SKANSEN: This open air museum 

is an upholder of Swedish traditions. 

Experience an old fashioned Swedish 

Christmas at the market, Lucia celebration, 

handicrafts village, and much more. 

Weekends Nov 28 – Dec 20. Djurgården 

STORTORGET SQUARE IN THE 

OLD TOWN: The beautiful medieval 

buildings and cobblestone streets of the 

Old Town set the stage for this charming 

market. Nov 21 – Dec 23. Stortorget 

Square, Old Town 

SIGTUNA: Enjoy Swedish Christmas traditions 

in Sigtuna, Sweden’s oldest town 

35 kilometres from Stockholm. Dancing, 

singing and Swedish traditional handicraft. 

Nov 29 – Dec 20. Open Sundays 

For general Stockholm information, highlights and 

the latest updates please visit the official website 

of Stockholm www.stockholmtown.com 

HENRIK TRYGG/WWW.IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE 

ANN LINDBERG/ WWW.IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

Cuneo Mondole Ski 

Looking for a new holiday destination? 

Cuneo and its Alps are just for you! This 

wonderful land in Piedmont region has 

an extraordinary variety of culture, art, 

gastronomy and landscape, where you can 

fi nd what you are looking for and what you 

would never expect to fi nd. 

Skier or snowboarder? Family or friends 

holidays? In Cuneo the best solution for 

your winter ski holidays is waiting for you! 

SKI HOLIDAY 

CI L O E r 

Ski, Snowboard & Aprés Ski: in the heart 

of the Alps, Mondolè Ski includes 3 areas 

Artesina, Prato Nevoso and Frabosa. With 

130 km of slopes is the perfect choise if you 

want to enjoy a day & night ski experience! 

In the amazing Conca of Pratonevoso 

the fun never ends: this sunny natural 

amphitheater is the scenario of many 

winter events. The snowpark with the half 

pipe and the border cross seems to be made 

for the best snowboarding challengers! 

€239 

Believe or not, 

you can enjoy all this from € 239! 

7 days: hotel+skipass. 

Still thinking about it? 

Don’t loose time: 

book your ski holiday in Cuneo now 

www.cuneoitalianalps.it 

CUNEO 

ALPS 

Riserva 

Bianca 

80 km of pistes, 37 runs (black, red and blue), 

15 ropeways: a wonderful conch that links 3 

valleys where to choose the level of diffi culty 

from beginner to expert skiers. This is the 

Riserva Bianca in Limone Piemonte: you 

can fi nd here something for everyone. This 

cosy anchient alpine village welcomes you 

in a amazing atmosphere. And after skiing 

the artistic, cultural, culinary and natural 

features of Limone will simply surprise you. 

Fly to Cuneo (ALPS). Visit www.ryanair.com for more information.

Visit a city. 

Discover a world. 

Gothenburg is a city by the sea, a port city, where people, scents and tastes blend. 

Gothenburg is the gateway to a unique archipelago, to a blue ribbon of water called the 

Göta Canal and to a refreshing beauty and tranquillity with origins in both nature and culture. 

We’re expecting you.

the place to be 

for conventions. 

be open, be free, be berlin. 

Berlin – Your choice. 

The city is widely recognised as one 

of the world’s premier destination 

for corporate meetings, incentives, 

conventions and exhibitions. 

Excellent hotels and venues. Professional 

support. Vibrant lifestyle. 

Value for money - really a place to 

be. To find out more, visit: 

www.berlin-convention-office.com

RYANAIR INFLIGHT PROMOTION

sightseeing, attractions, spas, museums, restaurants, 

programs and internet usage 

in 4 languages and maps 

 

Applies for 1 adult and 1 child up to the age of 14 

The Budapest Card is on sale at Tourist Information offices, underground ticket offices, 

in the best hotels in town or can be ordered online at www.budapest-card.com.

ENJOY YOUR JET 

WITHOUT THE LAG. 

RED BULLGIVES YOU WIIINGS.

For more than 30 years, 

Batchelors has led 

the way in product 

innovation to hold the 

Number 1 position 

in the Instant Soup 

market. 

Today, over 250m 

mugs of the Famous 

Cup-A-Soup are 

consumed each 

year in Britain. 

NOW AVAILABLE ON RYANAIR

THE MOST PUNCTUAL 

AIRLINE, WITH THE FEWEST 

CANCELLATIONS AND LOST BAGS 

RYANAIR’S CUSTOMER 

SERVICE STATISTICS 

Ryanair is committed to publishing its customer 

service statistics each month, which showed again 

in June that Ryanair is No. 1 for customer service 

and the most punctual airline in Europe, beating 

easyJet every week since 2003. 

CUSTOMER SERVICE STATISTICS 

JUNE 2009 (36,000 FLIGHTS) 

On-time fl ights 89% 

Complaints per 1,000 pax 0.76 

Baggage complaints per 1,000 pax 0.49 

Complaints answered 

within seven days 99% 

MORE CUSTOMER SERVICE 

ENHANCEMENTS 

ONLINE CHECK IN AND PRIORITY BOARDING 

All passengers now check-in online using Ryanair’s 

Check’N’Go service up to 14 days prior to fl ight 

departure, making it easier than ever before to avoid 

airport check-in queues. The Online Check-in system 

is now available in 8 languages, so it’s never been 

easier to avoid airport queues and check-in from the 

comfort of your own home. 

Check out www.ryanair.com for more details on 

priority boarding to avoid even more queues next 

time you fl y. 

THE BEST PUNCTUALITY AND 

THE FEWEST LOST BAGS 

The latest published on-time statistics of the Association 

of European Airlines for 2009 again prove that Ryanair is 

the No. 1 on-time major airline in Europe. 

RYANAIR NO. 1 ON-TIME 

MAJOR AIRLINE IN EUROPE* 

AIRLINE RANKING % 

Ryanair 1 93 

Lufthansa 2 85 

Air France 3 83 

British Airways 3 83 

Aer Lingus 4 82 

Iberia 5 70 

easyJet 6 RTP 

MAJOR AIRLINES FOR 

FEWEST LOST BAGS* 

AIRLINE RANKING BAGGAGE LOST 

per 1,000 passengers 

Ryanair 1 0.36 

Lufthansa 2 11 

British Airways 3 16 

TAP 4 17 

Air France 5 19 

easyJet RTP 

Aer Lingus RTP 

*Source: Ryanair, Aer Lingus, easyJet and Association of European Airlines 

published statistics (2009) RTP Refused to Publish 

HOW DO WE COMPARE? 

STATISTICS SKY SHOP 

RYANAIR: EUROPE’S GREENEST 

AND CLEANEST AIRLINE 

Aviation accounts for just 2% of CO2 

emissions, far less than power generation 

(26%) or road transport (18%) 

Passengers who choose Ryanair are doing 

their bit by fl ying with Europe’s greenest 

and cleanest airline. Since 1998 Ryanair has 

invested over $10bn in new aircraft and now 

operates the youngest most fuel effi cient 

fl eet of any major airline in Europe, a fact 

recently confi rmed by the Dutch Consumer 

Organisation in its recent study of 33 European 

airlines. 

As a result of this investment and 

technological advances in aircraft design, 

Ryanair has reduced its fuel burn and CO2 

emissions per passenger kilometre by 52% 

since 1998. In short, aviation accounts for just 

2% of CO2 emissions and within this sector, 

passengers can do no better than choosing 

Ryanair, the greenest, cleanest and most 

environmentally effi cient airline. 


133 

© getty

Eye Contour Gel 30 ml 

Enriched Moisturising Mask 50 ml 

Helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by over 35% withing just 4 weeks as proven by laser tests 

performed by independant laboratories. A wonderfl nuturing mask for stressed, tired and dehydrated skin. Spirulina 

microalgae extract in combination with other natural ingrediants such as panthenol (provitimin B5) avacado oil and 

sweet almond oil replenishes your skin’s natural moisture and promotes elasticity. Your skin feels beautifully vibrant 

with a healthy glow. For all skin types and especially for mature, dry skin. 

Pamper the delicate skin around your eyes with this light, soothing eye gel. This oil and alcohol free gel containing spirulina 

microalgae, echinacea, witch hazel and irish moss extract soothes and refreshes tired puffy eyes. The special formula helps to 

nourish and smooth the fragile skin in the delicate eye area. Your eye area looks visibly firmer and feels refreshed. For all 

skin types. Safe for contact lens wearers. 

Vitalising Leg Gel 200 ml 

Refreshing leg gel for soothing your tired, heavy legs. A 

specially formulated combination of herbalessences and 

spirulina platensis microalgae to refresh, cool and pamper 

your legs after a long day of standing or sitting. Birch, 

horse chestnut and butchersbroom extracts stimulate 

and soothe tired legs. Your tired feet will love a massage 

with the gel as well. 

15-piece Travel 

Manicure Set 

All your cosmetic tools in one place 

All your cosmetic tools in one place! Use this kit to look after your nails, 

or check your appearance in the mirror. Great for travel or everyday use, 

you’ll find everything you need in this handy Genuine black leather case. 

Includes mirror, nail file, nail buffer, nail clippers and cuticle scissors. 

Green Magic Skin Care Range 

Toning Lotion 200 ml 

An alcohol free formula with spirulina microalgae and aloe extract harmonises with your skins natural balance. This toning lotion 

gently removes excess cleanser residue without stripping the skin. Witch hazel extract minimisesredness and provides a natural 

astringent leaving your skin feeling exhilarated. Your skin gets that finishing touch and feels soft, supple and refreshed. For all skin 

types including sensitive skin (also very suitable for men as an aftershave). 

Buy As You Fly, Euro House, Cremers Road, Sittingbourne, Kent ME10 3US. 

Please send me Price GBP Price EURO Qty 

1 x 15-piece Travel Manicure Set £14.95 17.95 

1 x Toning Lotion 

£14.95 17.95 

1 x Enriched Moisturising Mask £19.95 23.95 

1 x Eye contour Gel 

£24.95 28.95 

1 x Vitalising Leg Gel 

£19.95 23.95 

1 x Body Cream 

£17.95 20.95 

Post Packing & Insurance (per order) £3.95 / 4.95 

Total 

IMPORTANT - Payment for goods may only be made by Credit/Debit Card, Cheque or Postal Order. Please do not send cash. No 

liability will be accepted for cash payments that are mislaid in transit. Home Shopping Selections. Reg. in England No. 2828214 

CALL 24 HOURS 7 DAYS A WEEK 

44(0)1795 592 479 

Body Cream 200 ml 

Treat your skin to this rich, creamy body cream. Natural plant 

substances such as spirulina platensis, coconut extract and 

vitimin E give your skin the moisture it needs without feeling 

greasy. Horse chestnut has a positive effect on varicose veins 

whilst ivy extract has a wonderful soothing and slimming effect. 

Your skin feels supple, refreshed, tightened and relaxed. For all 

skin types. 

I enclose my cheque/crossed Postal Orders for £................ 

made payable to: Buy As You Fly (Ref. BYCS908) 

TITLE................NAME.......................................................... Bu Buy y As As Yo You Y o u FFly Fly Fly 

y 

ADDRESS................................................................................. 

.......................................................................POST CODE.......................... 

DAYTIME TEL NO......................................................................................... 

PERSONAL EMAIL....................................................................................... 

OR please debit my Credit Card/Debit Card with the sum of £.................... 

Card No ......................................................................Issue No...................... 

Valid from........./......... Expiry Date........./......... 

Signature.......................................... Date of birth......./......../....... YC 

WWW.RYANAIRBUYASYOUFLY.COM

RYANAIR 

Top 

When you book your fl ights on 

TRAIN 

www.ryanair.com, don’t forget all Ryanair If you are travelling into central London 

tickets can now be changed, subject 

we carry hugely discounted rail tickets on 

to payment of a change fee and the 

board, giving you signifi cant savings on 

difference in fare between your original platform prices. Ask crew for available 

booking and the lowest fare on the fl ight 

you want to change to. Ryanair.com still 

tickets on board! 

offers the best value in car hire and hotels PHONE 

at all of our destinations and you can book Need to call home? Our starfi sh call cards 

travel insurance online before you fl y. are available to purchase on most fl ights 

in denominations of €10. Ask the crew and 

Since you’re booking online, why not take 

advantage of Ryanair’s new credit card to 

save on those international charges today! 

make your purchase? You’ll fi nd full details BUS 

online at www.ryanair.com. And you 

Terravision Coach Tickets are sold on 

continue to save money with our fi nancial board our fl ights to various destinations. 

services, which include mortgages, loans, Ask cabin crew for more details. 

life, motor and home insurance. Don’t 

If you have a complaint, please write to: 

forget to register for our email updates 

Customer Service Department, PO Box 11451, Swords, Co Dublin, Ireland 

with news on special offers from our 

After an onboard purchase, goods cannot be exchanged and monies will 

not be refunded, unless the item was damaged at the time of purchase 

partners, new routes and, of course, the 

As space restrictions limit the number of items we carry, please accept 

cheapest fl ights. 

our apologies if your fi rst choice is not available today Your cabin crew 

are familiar with all items on board and will be happy to suggest 

an alternative Prices and rates of exchange are monitored 

carefully and are subject to change without notice 

From plane to train, it’s the fastest way to London 

There’s no faster way between Stansted Airport and central London. 

Save time and money, buy your discounted Stansted Express train tickets 

from the cabin crew now. 

ONBOARD SHOPPING 

RYANAIR SKY SHOP 

SKY 

SHOP 

Brands 

We have made it our business to bring you all 

the latest fragrances from the designer perfume 

houses including Cool Water by Davidoff and Glow 

by Jennifer Lopez. We also carry several travel 

exclusives not available on the high street. 

Tax-Free Prices! 

We have kept all our gifts and designer fragrances 

at tax-free prices, saving you over 20% on high 

street prices. All prices are in sterling and euro. 

How to pay for purchases 

For your convenience we accept all major 

currencies, Master Card and Visa credit cards. 

Rates available on the day. 

Ryanair does not accept cheques or travellers 

cheques on board. Passengers are asked to check 

their change/credit card receipt and purchases at 

the time of receipt as errors cannot be rectifi ed 

after the fl ight. Due to customs regulations, goods 

may not be exchanged on board. 

ALLERGY ADVICE 

Please note that food items sold onboard 

may contain nuts or traces of nuts. 


135

RYANAIR 

Top 

When you book your fl ights on 

TRAIN 

www.ryanair.com, don’t forget all Ryanair If you are travelling into central London 

tickets can now be changed, subject 

we carry hugely discounted rail tickets on 

to payment of a change fee and the 

board, giving you signifi cant savings on 

difference in fare between your original platform prices. Ask crew for available 

booking and the lowest fare on the fl ight 

you want to change to. Ryanair.com still 

tickets on board! 

offers the best value in car hire and hotels PHONE 

at all of our destinations and you can book Need to call home? Our starfi sh call cards 

travel insurance online before you fl y. are available to purchase on most fl ights 

in denominations of €10. Ask the crew and 

Since you’re booking online, why not take 

advantage of Ryanair’s new credit card to 

save on those international charges today! 

make your purchase? You’ll fi nd full details BUS 

online at www.ryanair.com. And you 

Terravision Coach Tickets are sold on 

continue to save money with our fi nancial board our fl ights to various destinations. 

services, which include mortgages, loans, Ask cabin crew for more details. 

life, motor and home insurance. Don’t 

If you have a complaint, please write to: 

forget to register for our email updates 

Customer Service Department, PO Box 11451, Swords, Co Dublin, Ireland 

with news on special offers from our 

After an onboard purchase, goods cannot be exchanged and monies will 

not be refunded, unless the item was damaged at the time of purchase 

partners, new routes and, of course, the 

As space restrictions limit the number of items we carry, please accept 

cheapest fl ights. 

our apologies if your fi rst choice is not available today Your cabin crew 

are familiar with all items on board and will be happy to suggest 

an alternative Prices and rates of exchange are monitored 

carefully and are subject to change without notice 

From plane to train, it’s the fastest way to London 

There’s no faster way between Stansted Airport and central London. 

Save time and money, buy your discounted Stansted Express train tickets 

from the cabin crew now. 

ONBOARD SHOPPING 

RYANAIR SKY SHOP 

SKY 

SHOP 

Brands 

We have made it our business to bring you all 

the latest fragrances from the designer perfume 

houses including Cool Water by Davidoff and Glow 

by Jennifer Lopez. We also carry several travel 

exclusives not available on the high street. 

Tax-Free Prices! 

We have kept all our gifts and designer fragrances 

at tax-free prices, saving you over 20% on high 

street prices. All prices are in sterling and euro. 

How to pay for purchases 

For your convenience we accept all major 

currencies, Master Card and Visa credit cards. 

Rates available on the day. 

Ryanair does not accept cheques or travellers 

cheques on board. Passengers are asked to check 

their change/credit card receipt and purchases at 

the time of receipt as errors cannot be rectifi ed 

after the fl ight. Due to customs regulations, goods 

may not be exchanged on board. 





135

Soft Drinks 

BRITVIC J20 

Orange & Passion 

Fruit drink with a twist. 275ml 

€2.50 

MYSMOOTHIE 

100% fruit inside containing at least 

eight strawberries. 250ml 

€2.50 

SOFT DRINKS & JUICES 

A wide selection of soft drinks and 

fruit juices on sale. 150ml 

€1.80 

LIPTON ICE TEA 

A cool refreshing drink. 250ml 

€2.50 

FRUIT SHOOT 

100% Apple Juice. 250ml 

€2.00 

Hot Drinks 

SAILE & SABGA 

GOURMET ESPRESSO 

Black, frothy and creamy. 

€3.00 

SAILE & SABGA GOURMET 

HOT CHOCOLATE, 

CAPPUCCINO, ESPRESSO, 

TEA & COFFEE 

Extra large cups of your 

favourite drink. 

12oz 

€3.00 

QUENCH YOUR THIRST AND SATISFY YOUR HUNGER WITH OUR GREAT RANGE OF DRINKS AND SNACKS 

LUXURY 

HOT 

DRINKS 

NEW 

RED BULL 

SHOT 

REFRESHING WATER 

Still or sparkling mineral water. 

500ml 

€3.00 

RED BULL 

Gives you wings. 250ml 

€3.50 

NEW RED BULL 

ENERGY SHOT60ml 

€3.00 

JELLY BEANS 

€3.00 

GALAXY® BAR 

€1.00 

SNICKERS 

DOUBLE, 

TWIX® 2 FINGER, 

MARS® 2 PACK 

€1.50 

TIMEOUT BAR 

€1.30 

NEW CADBURY 

DAIRY MILK 

€1.30 

MARYLAND 

COOKIES 

€1.50 

SALTED PEANUTS 

€2.00 

 

 

 

SAILE & SABGA 

PREMIUM WINES 

A choice of either a red merlot 

or crisp white Chardonnay. 

18.7cl 

€5.95 

BEER 

Choices of Beers may vary 

depending on destination, 

please ask crew. 

€4.50 

SNACK & DIP 

TORTILLA 

With salsa dip. 

€3.00 

Alcohol 

Sn cks & chocolates 

WALKERS 

SHORTBREAD 40g. 

€1.50 

TGIF POTATO SKINS 

Bacon & Cheddar 

€1.50 

NEW FORTUNE 

COOKIES 

€3.00 

NEW PEPERAMI 

€1.50 

MARS® MUFFIN 

€2.00 

MALTESERS®175g 

€3.00 

NEW PARTY 

JELLIES 

€3.00 

NEW CHUPA 

CHUPS BAG 

€2.00 

HARIBO STARMIX 

175g bag. Sweet! 

€3.00 

HARIBO 

GOLDBEARS 

175g bag. Sweet! 

€3.00 

NEW MENTHOS 

MINTS 

€1.50 

PRINGLES 

Once you pop... 43g. 

€2.20 

DRINKS & SNACKS SKY SHOP 

BUY ONE GET ONE FREE! 

BULLSEYE BAGGIES 

Keep in good spirits with brandy, 

gin, rum, vodka, whisky or cognac. 

25ml 

€5.50 

KOPPARBERG PEAR 

CIDER 

€6.00 

SPARKLING WINE 

Something to celebrate? 

€7.00 

SNACK PACK 

Carrs crackers, cheese, 

Jacobs Crackers, pâté, two 

mini Mars & more! 

€5.00 

BALISTO® 

MUESLI BAR 

A delicious healthy treat. 

€1.50 

M&M’S® 

“THE BIG PACK” 

€3.00 

NEW BOUNTY BAR 

€1.00 

MINI CHEDDERS 

€2.00 

NEW 

PARTY 

JELLIES 


DRINKS & SNACKS 

137

SANDWICHES 

Different varieties available, just ask the crew. 

€5.00 

CHEESEBURGER WITH RELISH 

Only available on selected fl ights. 

€5.00 

CROISSANTS 

Delicious French pastries! 

€2.50 

SATISFY YOUR HUNGER WITH THIS LARGE SELECTION OF SANDWICHES AND HOT FOOD 

CHICKEN C 

You came, you saw, you conquered... no 

€5.95 

HOT HAM & CHEESE CIABATTA 

Fill up on a delicious hot sandwich. 

€5.60 

HOT BREAKFAST BAP 

Available only on selected fl ights. 

€5.00 

NEW 

IMPROVED 

RECIPE 

LARGER BITES SKY SHOP 

OT PIZZA 

ifferent varieties available, just ask the crew. 

€4.50 

PREMIUM HOT DOG 

You know... New York-style. 

€5.00 

BATCHELORS CUP A SOUP 

Tomato and vegetable or chicken and vegetable. 

€3.60 

NEW HOT BREAKFAST 

Breakfast, as good as homemade. 

€5.50 

NEW 

NEW 

BREAKFAST! 

LARGER BITES 

HOT FOOD & SANDWICH TYPE MAY VARY DEPENDING ON LOCATION

CARAT EARRINGS 

The perfect complement to the 

pendant these gorgeous pierced 

earrings complete the “look”! 

€44.00 

BEAUTIFUL JEWELLERY FROM SWAROVSKI 

EVITA CRYSTAL BRACELET 

Glitter girl! A fun accessory with a timeless appeal… 

Brilliant clear crystal mesh on a sleek leather bracelet – the 

perfect accessory for an elegant or casual look! Snap closure. 

€69.90 

CARAT PENDANT 

A true classic! The solitaire pendant is a 

timeless favourite and perfect with everything 

from denim to satin. Highlighted with a pave 

crystal bale and a stunning rhodium plated 

setting and chain, this pendant is not to be 

missed; chain length 38 cm. 

€44.00 

NEW 

SWAROVSKI GIFTS SKY SHOP 

CORDULA BANGLE 

Eternally fashionable, simple and stylish, this bangle is 

a true classic; brilliant Swarovski crystals, handset in a 

rodium-plated bangle and easy snap closure. 

€69.90 

NEW 


SWAROVSKI GIFTS 

141

AVIATOR 

LADIES WATCH 

Featuring diamante bezel, white 

leather strap, mother of pearl dial 

with day, date, seconds and minutes. 

Water resistant up to 10 ATM and fu 

international guarantee. 

€76.50 

TRAVEL ADAPTOR 

Travel Easy Worldwide universal travel 

adaptor plug, for use in most countries 

worldwide, with built in fuse. 

€10.00 

1:200 SCALE AIRCRAFT 

Take home your very own Boeing 737 

aircraft. 

€11.90 

GLOW PEN 

Brighten up your day with 

our Ryanair light pen. 

€9.00 

PURCHASE GADGETS AND TOYS, PLUS TAKE AWAY YOUR OWN RYANAIR PLANE 

RYANAIR LANYARD 

Keep hold of your valuable items. 

€5.00 

AIRPORT PLAY SET 

Everything you need to create your 

very own Ryanair airport. 

€10.00 

NEW 

AVIATOR 

GENTS WATCH 

With high precision quartz chronograph 

movement, displaying date, stopwatch, 

24 hour time zone, internal rotating bezel 

with country markings, solid steel case, 

integrated leather strap, water resistant to 10 

ATM and full international guarantee. 

€71.40 

ON SALE 

NOW! 

KYZMO MOBILE 

DOWNLOAD CARD 

The latest ringtones, wallpapers, games and 

more. 1,000s of great downloads on offer, 

you’ll be sure to fi nd just what you want. 

€10.00 

FUN PLANE 

With fl ashing lights and noises. 

€11.00 

SMOKELESS CIGARETTES 

The substitute cigarette that tastes and feels like a real cigarette 

without having to light it. One Similar Smokeless Cigarette 

contains 0.8mg Nicotine. This is for inhalation purposes only. 

Please do not light! Not sold to passengers under the age of18. 

€6.00 

RYANAIR SHOP SKY SHOP 

FUN PLANE 

KEYRING 

Press the nose of this cute 

Fun Plane to reveal engine 

sound & fl ashing lights. A fun 

accessory for all ages!! 

€5.00 

RADIO- 

CONTROLLED PLANE 

Test your skills as a pilot. 

€22.00 

LUGGAGE TAGS 

3PC SET 

These 3D rubberised luggage tags are a 

perfect way to help your child enjoy their 

holiday with Bob The Builder. 

€6.00 


EXCLUSIVES & RYANAIR GIFTS 

143

Now available onboard! 

Your life’s about to get juicier 

100% fruit inside. NO added sugar, preservatives or additives. 

www.my-smoothie.com 

Made wi h love in Sweden

NEW 

CAROLINA 

HERRERA 212 FOR MEN 

Cosmopolitan, Urban, Innovative, Trendy. 

212 For Men reveals a masculine fragrance, 

different, surprising and exceptionally 

attractive. 50ml 

€28.00 

NEW 

CKFREE 

An aromatic warm woody fragrance, fresh 

yet casual and distinctly masculine. Free 

the mind with absinthe and continue the 

journey with spiciness in the heart that 

winds its way through sensual wood notes. 

50ml 

€31.00 

GIVENCHY GENTLEMAN 

Indulge yourself with Gentleman’s prestige 

and character. A distinguished and vigorous 

fragrance for a man who is sure of his 

seductive appeal. 50ml 

€30.50 

ASK THE CREW FOR THIS SELECTION OF FINE FRAGRANCES 

PAUL SMITH MEN 

A classic woody, spicy fragrance that 

combines the fresh citrus notes of 

bergamot with rosemary and the spices of 

nutmeg and cardamom. 50ml 

€19.90 

VERSACE 

POUR HOMME 

Dynamic and entrepreneurial, the Versace 

Pour Homme man communicates his 

forceful and passionate character through 

a decidedly masculine fragrance. 50ml 

€33.00 

NEW 

KYLIE INVERSE FOR MEN 

Deeply seductive, Inverse is the perfect fragrance 

for a complex man. A fresh, ambery oriental, this 

beautifully constructed fragrance offers surprising 

masculine notes that are strong yet sensitive. 50ml 

€24.00 

DIESEL FUEL FOR LIFE 

Elegant, sexy and energetic, this powerful 

elixir should be used with caution! Fuel for 

Life for Men is a powdery fougère with notes 

of pink grapefruit and cedar wood, blended 

with raspberry, lavender and vetiver. 50ml 

€30.00 

NEW 

PACO RABANNE 

1 MILLION 

Fresh and sparkling with a note of 

grapefruit, mint and blood orange, found 

on a heart of rose absolute and cinnamon. 

A striking contrast, mixing sophisticated 

sensuality and asserted virility. 50ml 

€29.00 

MEN’S FRAGRANCES SKY SHOP 

ISSEY MIYAKE 

POUR HOMME 

A fresh, spicy and woody fragrance. 

A pure and modern universe. 75ml 

€33.00 

DAVIDOFF 

ADVENTURE 

Its fresh spicy woody 

composition is daring and 

elemental, inspired by the 

world’s great wildernesses and 

raw, masculine emotion. 50ml 

€28.00 

L’ORÉAL MEN EXPERT 

HYDRA TRIO PACK 

Anti-fatigue lotion, anti-dark circle eye cream 

and shaving foam from L’Oréal’s new line. 

Triple Travel Pack 

€15.00 


MEN’S FRAGRANCES 

145

www.ysl.com 

Vincent Cassel

DOLCE & GABBANA 

THE ONE FOR MEN 

Dolce & Gabbana The One for Men is a 

concentrate of elegance and sensuality. A 

spicy, oriental fragrance, developed on the 

harmony of tobacco with refi ned boisé notes. 

For the modern hedonist who never passes by 

unobserved. 50ml 

€33.00 

ARMANI DIAMONDS HE 

Cedar wood as a symbol of masculinity, 

twisted with an unexpected accord of cocoa. 

A streamlined, powerful, faceted bottle; 

elegant, youthful, the perfect fragrance for a 

promising socialite. 50ml 

€33.30 

BIM WHITE 

EDITION 

With notes of blood orange, black 

pepper and vetiver, this musky 

yet surprisingly fresh scent is 

free-spirited and casual. The ideal 

fragrance for the man who draws 

energy from within. 40ml 

€26.60 

NEW 


ARMANI CODE MAN 

This eau de toilette combines a 

citron cocktail with soft notes of olive 

tree blossom in an innovative and 

interesting way. 50ml 

€35.50 

NEW 

ARMANI AQUA DI GIO MEN 

An invitation to escape. This aquatic-fl oral 

scent offers a sensation of freshness and 

vitality. 50ml 

€36.50 

NEW 

LACOSTE 

CHALLENGE 

Inspired by the dynamic style 

of tennis legend, Rene Lacoste. 

Opening with citrus notes, aromatic 

lavender and spicy ginger, with a solid 

woody base giving it a modern yet 

distinguished personality. 50ml 

€21.50 

JEAN-PAUL 

GAULTIER LE MALE 

The great masculine classic by Jean-Paul 

Gaultier. A fougère-oriental harmony. A 

fresh, sexy fragrance, combining power 

and sensuality. A virile torso bottle, 

dressed in the designer’s trademark 

sailor’s T-shirt. 75ml 

€33.00 

DAVIDOFF COOL 

WATER FOR MEN 

Coriander, sandalwood and 

cedar come together to 

reinvigorate the senses and 

provide you with a fresh and 

clean scent. 40ml 

€16.50 

MEN’S FRAGRANCES SKY SHOP 

NEW 

BECKHAM SIGNATURE 

STORY FOR HIM 

This fragrance embodies David Beckham’s 

iconic look and visionary spirit in a 

complex woody aromatic fragrance. This 

suave fragrance underlines the assertive 

elegance and sophistication of the man 

that wears it. 50ml 

€25.50 

ARMANI MINIATURES 

Sophisticated, mysterious and sensual. A unique collector’s 

set of the entire Giorgio Armani men’s fragrance range 

from Eau Pour Homme to Attitude. This collection 

perfectly expresses Armani’s perception of a man. 

€25.50 

YSL LA NUIT DE 

L’HOMME 

An oriental fragrance with the freshness 

of cardamom, the sophistication of 

cedar and the intense sensuality of 

coumarin. 60ml 

€35.00 


MEN’S FRAGRANCES 

147

Eva Longoria 

up to12x moreLASH IMPACT 

NEW MASCARA 

HYDRA-COLLAGEN 

VOLUME BUILDER 

EXTRA-VOLUME 

BRUSH 

2 X BIGGER 

THAN A CLASSIC BRUSH

EXTRA VOLUME COLLAGEN 

MASCARA DUO 

This revolutionary new formula adds collagen for the 

fi rst time in a mascara. Result: 12 times more lash 

impact! The biggest volumising brush on the market 

provides women with the breathtaking lashes they 

have always dreamed of. 

€16.60 

ARRIVE REFRESHED WITH OUR SELECTION OF MAKE UP AND FRAGRANCES 

NEW 

INFLIGHT 

EXCLUSIVE 

DUO 

COLLAGEN RE-PLUMPER DUO 

This new duo contains a day and a night cream with 

collagen offering a daily dose of intense hydration to 

re-plump your skin. Visibly reduces the appearance 

of wrinkles and gives skin a bouncy feel. 

€17.00 

DOUBLE ACTION LIP & LIP CONTOUR 

This revolutionary new product has a double-ended applicator with a 

smoothing collagen biospheres cream on one side and Hyaluronic plumping 

cream on the other! A fabulous tool proven to show astonishing results for 

redefi ned, younger and more voluptuous lips! 15ml 

€10.00 

WOMEN’S MAKE UP SKY SHOP 

NEW 

L’OREAL GLAM BRONZE SUN SET 

One natural-looking bronzing powder and long lasting 

six-hour gloss. Look sun-kissed all year long! Colours were 

chosen to give you a healthy glow as you were coming 

back from the sun! 

€15.90 

L’OCCITANE NOURISHING CREAM 

All the benefi ts of shea butter to nourish and protect dry and 

damaged hands and feet. Includes one shea butter hand cream and 

one shea butter foot cream. 

€18.50 


WOMEN’S MAKE UP 

149

LANCÔME TRAVEL ESSENTIALS 

SPECIAL TRAVEL SIZE A special and unique skincare set that meets 

the new safety standards (less than 100ml). A complete routine including 

Hydra Zen Neurocalm Security bag included. 

€22.50 

LANCÔME STAR BRONZER 

Enhance your complexion with sun-kissed colour thanks to the Sun Color 

Complex. The Pinceau Magique protects and keeps the skin hydrated, 

comfortable and smooth for more than eight hours. 

€24.00 

RRIVE REFRESHED WITH OUR SELECTION OF MAKE UP AND FRAGRANCES 

PRISMISSIME MAT & 

GLOW NATURAL 

Try the “extreme” version of the Givenchy 

Prisme... Nine different colours in a single 

palette for a radiant, luminous complexion. A 

choice of natural matte, ultra-radiant and subtly 

iridescent shades to mix and match to your 

heart’s content! 

€21.00 

GIVENCHY 

PHENOMEN’EYES MASCARA 

Try the new revolutionary mascara of Givenchy, 

Phenomen’eyes, with its totally new and patented brush, 

for a new gesture and a phenomenal make-up result! 

€16.00 

GIVENCHY MAKE UP PALETTE 

This compact contains everything that a jetsetter 

would need to keep herself looking fresh. 

€29.00 

GIVENCHY LASH 

PEARLS 

This liquid dots on to the end 

of your lashes and dries to form 

tiny little sparkly jewels on your 

lash tips! 

€17.70 




151

TRAVEL 

RETAIL 

EXCLUSIVE 

CLINIQUE ALL-IN-ONE MAKE-UP PALETTE 

Includes Superpowder Double Face Powder, Soft-Pressed Powder Blusher, Colour 

Surge Eye Shadow Quad, High Impact Mascara, two shades of Long Last Lipstick, 

two shades of Colour Surge Lipstick and Moisture Sheer Lipstick in a mirrored 

compact with applicators. 

€34.50 

TRAVEL 

RETAIL 

EXCLUSIVE 

CLINIQUE LONG LAST 

GLOSSWEAR SPF 15 

Travel Retail Exclusive: Lip gloss juiced up with eight 

hours of lasting shine. Moisture makes each one even 

more mouth-watering. Protects lips, too, with SPF 15. 

Five mini Long Last Glosswear SPF15 in a range of sheer, 

glistening shades. Allergy Tested. 100% Fragrance Free. 

€21.00 

EYELIFTING G EL 

Victoria Beckham’s favourite as stated by Heat 

magazine. Watch your fi ne lines and puffi ness 

disappear when applied daily. Suitable for all 

skin types. 

€18.50 


AIRLINE 

EXCLUSIVE 

COMES 

AS A 

SET! 

ELIZABETH ARDEN 8-HOUR 

ESSENTIALS TRIO PACK 

Elizabeth Arden’s classic eight-hour skin 

protectant, teamed with eight-hour hand cream 

and lip balm. Essential tools for models and 

make up artists everywhere! 

€22.00 

PROFESSIONAL WHITE 

Teeth Whitening System. Transformulas® 

Professional White, Teeth Whitening System 

helps to remove stains caused by red wine, 

food, coffee, tobacco and aging. A safe and fast 

alternative to an expensive bill from your dentist. 

€21.50 


CLINIQUE MOISTURE SURGE 

Travel Retail Exclusive: Enjoy rapid refreshment and a full 12 hours of soothing 

moisture with Clinique’s new Moisture Surge Extended Thirst Relief. Extra 

Refreshing Eye Gel instantly replenishes the skin around the eyes. For an instant 

boost of hydration anytime, anywhere, there’s Face Spray Thirsty Skin Relief. 

Perfect for use in-fl ight. Allergy Tested. 100% Fragrance Free. 

€35.00 

THE BODY SHOP: 

FACE ANY ENVIRONMENT 

Three Vitamin E skincare creams help lock in 

moisture whatever environment you fi nd yourself in! 

Enriched with Community Trade cocoa butter and 

shea butter. Day Cream 50ml, Night Cream 

50ml, Eye Cream 15ml 

€20.00 

LIP VOLUME 

Scientifi cally proven to increase volume 

and defi nition without the sting! This niche 

treatment came from the fear of needles and 

has been specially formulated to start working 

immediately, producing semi-permanent results. 

€18.50 



153

YSL ALL FOR EYES 

The winning trio to obtain a glamorous, intense 

and long-lasting look in the wink of an eye: Touche 

Éclat to erase signs of jetlag, Mascara Volume 

Effet Faux Cils N°1 to give lashes volume and curl 

and Eau Démaquillante Visage et Yeux to gently 

remove face and eye make-up. 

€38.00 

YSL FRENCH MANICURE 

At last the French manicure becomes accessible 

to every woman! A clever duo of portable pens 

particularly easy to use, for instantly wellmanicured, 

smooth and glossy nails. 

€28.60 


NEW 

YSL PARISIENNE 

The portrait of a woman incredibly free. She was 

not born in Paris but Paris adopts her. Because she 

knows how to love, how to live. The perfume of ultra 

femininity, warmed by the touch of the man who 

embraced her. Vinyl accord - Damask Rose, Violet 

- Sandalwood, Vetiver. 50ml 

€44.50 

YSL TOP S ECRETS 

Yves Saint Laurent reveals its fi rst “Top Secret”: 

a brand new application technique in skincare, 

inspired by the beauty secrets of top models and 

professionals. With a single brush stroke, signs 

of fatigue are erased, skin is left feeling velvety 

smooth and fresh with radiance! 

€33.00 

YVES SAINT LAURENT SKY SHOP 

YSL MASCARA VOLUME 

EFFET FAUX CILS 

Yves Saint Laurent’s best-selling mascara, 

indipensable for a deep look without a hint 

of artifi ce. 

€19.90 

YSL R ADIANT TOUCH 

A travel pen-brush to add a touch 

of radiance to your skin anytime of 

the day. 

€20.00 


YVES SAINT LAURENT 

155

LES PARFUMS 

Miniatures sets including Miss Dior Chérie Eau de Toilette, Dolce 

Vita Eau de Toilette, J’adore Eau de Parfum, Midnight Poison Eau de 

Parfum and Dior Addict 2 Eau de Toilette. A sumptuous coffret that 

features Dior’s fi ve greatest classics, including J’adore, Dior’s absolute 

feminine fragrance. Special Travel Edition. 

€33.50 

FAHRENHEIT TRAVEL K IT 

All the elegance of Dior’s mythical and subtle masculine fragrance, based 

on both woody and fl oral notes, in an exclusive travel-sized set, that features 

Fahrenheit Eau de Toilette Spray 50ml and a 25g Stick Deodorant as a gift. 

€33.50 


NEW 

MISS DIOR CHERIE L’EAU 

Fresh, radiant, youthful, elegant and ever so slightly impertinent... 

Introducing Miss Dior Cherie L’eau, the new fragrance for Christian 

Dior’s little darlings. Orange essence, a gardenia accord and white 

musk give this fresh and sparkling fl oral composition a sensuality as 

joyful as the promise of happiness. 50ml 

€36.00 

DIOR PRODUCTS SKY SHOP 

J’ADORE 

Enter the legend of J’adore... absolute feminity according to Dior. The 

fl uid curves of the emblematic amphora-shaped bottle give rise to the 

opulence of a fruity-fl oral bouquet - a fresh accord of Ylang-Ylang, 

vibrant Roses and a caressing Jasmine. The essence of glamour. 50ml 

€50.00 

NEW 

NEW 

DIOR ADDICT LIP MAXIMIZER 

Enjoy the volumizing effect of this treatment gloss with Collagen Activ... This allin-one 

formula offers the radiance of a gloss and the effectiveness of a balm. The 

lips are smooth, luscious on application, moisturized and plumped-up in just two 

weeks. The added benefi t? The vanilla-mint fl avoured cooling effect. 

€18.50 


DIOR PRODUCTS 

157

indulge 

the finest hot drinks you will ever have at 30,000ft 

www.SAILE-SABGA.com

VIVA LA JUICY 

Cant get enough couture? Well here’s even more 

for Juicy girls who want it all. Wild berries and juicy 

mandarin. Honeysuckle, gardenia and jasmine. Amber, 

caramel, vanilla, sandalwood and praline. Viva the scent 

of couture. 50ml 

€38.50 

NEW 

BOSS OR ANGE 

Combining an uplifting burst of sweet 

apples, the light-heartedness of white 

fl owers and orange blossom and the 

soulfulness of sandalwood and olive 

wood, BOSS Orange is the ideal scent 

for the passionate, carefree and freespirited 

modern woman. 50ml 

€32.00 

DAVIDOFF C OOL 

WATER WOMAN 

As refreshing as water, this scent will 

rejuvenate anyone who tries it and 

provides a splash of confi dence. 30ml 

€21.40 

NEW 


BARBIE M INIATURE 

FRAGRANCE SET 

Feel as special as a princess with our 

collection of four different miniature 

fragrances. 

€12.50 

NEW 

VINTAGE BY KATE MOSS 

Stylish, sophisticated and deeply feminine, Vintage, 

a fruity fl oriental fragrance, is a unique expression of 

Kate’s love of vintage clothes and objets d’art. Just like 

Kate, Vintage has an enduring style and elegance that is 

destined to captivate men and women alike. 50ml 

€26.50 

GIVENCHY VERY I RRESISTIBLE 

Be audacious and elegant with this utterly feminine 

bouquet of roses. Be irresistible with Very Irrésistible 

Givenchy! Plus, get a free must-have perfect miniature 

travel size spray, 15ml. Simply irresistible! 

50ml & 15ml 

€34.50 

WOMEN’S FRAGRANCES SKY SHOP 

NEW 

SUITABLE 

FOR 

CHILDREN 

HELLO K ITTY 

A trendy new perfume the Hello Kitty way! The freshness of 

green apple combined with cherry tree fl owers and jasmine 

leaves, meets the sweetness of the toffee apple, sugar and 

vanilla syrup. The association of pralines and coconut scents 

gives to the fragrance all its originality. 60ml 

€14.50 

DIESEL SHE UNLIMITED 

Fuel For Life Unlimited opens with lemon, 

mandarin, exotic guava and violets, then jasmine 

and spicy lilies at the heart of this heady elixir. 

Finally bewitching labdanum resin raises sensuality 

to its peak, while soft musk contributes its 

irresistable texture. 50ml 

€32.00 

DKNY TO GO WOMEN 

An energising fragrance from Donna 

Karan New York. 30ml 

€17.00 


WOMEN’S FRAGRANCES 

159

NEW 

GIORGIO ARMANI 

CODE LADY 

Wearing Armani Code is like an 

embroidery fashioned on your very skin, 

like a secret code of seduction. Orange 

blossom is the fragrance’s guiding light. 

50ml 

€38.50 

NEW 


NEW 

DOLCE & GABBANA – THE ONE 

Like the woman that wears it, the strength and uniqueness 

of The One fragrance comes from contrast. It opens with an 

exciting, modern interpretation of fresh fruits, which is followed 

by the timeless scent of white fl owers. The fragrance fi nally 

unfolds to reveal a deep and sensual base. 50ml 

€41.00 

CAROLINA HERRERA 

212 SEXY 

Carolina Herrera introduces 212 SEXY. More 

voluptuous and profound, the perfect fragrance for 

an evening full of intrigue, mystery and romance. 

Its seductiveness will captivate you. 30ml 

€25.00 

NEW 

VERSACE VERSENSE 

Versense expresses perfectly the fusion of freshness and sensuality. The name of the 

perfume suggests a promise for the senses. The colour of the fragrance brings to mind a 

sense of nature. It evokes freedom of open space, the energy of revitalization and balance 

of the senses. The perfume is fresh and intoxicating. It is inspired by nature’s elements and 

dedicated to confi dent, vital and sensual women. 50ml 

€39.00 

WOMEN’S FRAGRANCES SKY SHOP 

JEAN-PAUL G AULTIER 

CLASSIQUE 

A fl oral-oriental harmony. A deliciously 

sensual delight. A tribute to femininity. 

50ml 

€45.00 

EMPORIO ARMANI DIAMONDS 

Like a diamond, a multifaceted fragrance: fruity (lychee and raspberry), 

fl oral (rose, freesia and lily), woody (vetiver, cedar wood and patchouli) 

and amber. The ultimate symbol of luxury and extravagance for a self 

confi dent and audacious woman. 50ml 

€35.50 

JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER MA DAME 

Jean-Paul Gaultier celebrates the contemporary woman and dedicates 

his new fragrance to her. MA DAME, a fresh and smooth fl oral scent. 

Orange zest, fresh rose sparkling with a fl ash of grenadine, a brilliant 

and colorful note. A bottle with powerful lines illuminated by a pop light. 

50ml 

€45.00 



161


SKY SHOP WOMEN’S FRAGRANCES ASK THE CREW FOR THIS SELECTION OF FINE FRAGRANCES 

PAUL SMITH EXTREME 

LADIES 

A sensual, sophisticated and modern blend 

of oriental and fl oral scents that leaves a 

lasting impression. 50ml 

€23.50 

BECKHAM SIGNATURE 

STORY FOR HER 

This fragrance is a unique expression of Victoria’s 

signature style, femininity and delicate strength. 

This warm and sexy fragrance leads with sweet, 

sparkling top notes of peach, bitter orange and 

kumquat, which entice and invite. 50ml 

€25.50 

COUTURE 

BY KYLIE 

Sophisticated and 

glamorous, Kylie Min 

is admired globally 

for her distinctive 

personal style. Now 

the essence of her 

elegance is captured 

in a feminine and 

contemporary fl oral 

musk. 50ml 

€26.50 


NEW 

LACOSTE LOVE OF PINK 

Warm, romantic, delightfully feminine and energetic. The 

unique scent of LACOSTE Love of Pink combines a 

blend of zesty ingredients, softened by a fl oral heart and a 

sensual woody, musky dry down. A delightfully captivating 

fragrance… a girl’s irresistible companion towards 

discovering the wonderful feeling of love. 50ml 

€28.00 

HALLE BY HALLE BERRY 

This modern and sensuous ‘woody oriental’ 

fragrance captures Halle’s natural beauty. 

Incorporating Mimosa and Fig: transparent yet 

textured, fl uid but tactile, the sparkling and sensual 

notes composing this scent playfully intermingle, 

creating an enticing sensorial fusion. 50ml 

€25.50 

J’LO 

SUNKISSED GLOW 

Enjoy the feeling of warm sand 

on skin; bask in the glow of the 

hot summer sun. Sunkissed 

Glow is a sensual, fl oral, fruity 

fragrance, revealing a tropical 

fusion of ruby red grapefruit 

and sweet pineapple; and 

blowing a kiss of orange fl ower 

and water lily. 50ml 

€16.00 

NEW 

HIDDEN FANTASY BY BRITNEY 

The new fragrance by Britney Spears. What do you 

have to hide? Seductive and surprising, a sweet nectar 

of sparkling citrus blossoms, succulent fl orals and 

mysterious musks share a secret of warm sensuality that 

is impossible to hide. 30ml 

€17.50 

STELLA NUDE 

The new fragrance by Stella McCartney. The 

intimate encounter of a tender rose, grey 

amber and precious vanilla. 50ml 

€40.00 

ESTÉE 

LAUDER 

BEAUTIFUL 

This elegant aroma will 

follow you throughout 

the day and surround 

you with the warmth 

of fl owers, woods and 

spices. 

€19.00 

NEW

Hungry? 

Main bites... 

SANDWICHES 

Many varieties available. 

Just ask the crew. 

€5.00 

Wake up call... 

CROISSANTS 

Many varieties available. Just ask the 

crew. 

€2.50 

Snacks & chocolates 

NEW FORTUNE COOKIES 

€3.00 

NEW CADBURY DAIRY MILK 

€1.30 

GALAXY® CHOCOLATE BAR 

€1.00 

MALTESERS® (175g Pack) 

€3.00 

HARIBO STARMIX 

€3.00 

NEW HARIBO GOLDBEARS 

€3.00 

CHICKEN CAESAR 

WRAP You came, you saw, 

you conquered. Now eat! 

€5.95 

HOT BREAKFAST BAP 

Available only on certain fl ights. 

€5.00 

SALTED PEANUTS 

€2.00 

MARS® 2 PACK, 

SNICKERS DUO, 

TWIX® (Twin Pack) 

€1.50 

JELLY BEANS 

€3.00 

MARS® MUFFIN 

€2.00 

NEW MENTHOS MINTS 

€1.50 

SERVED HOT! 

HOT PIZZA 

Many varieties available. 

Just ask the crew. 

€4.50 

NEW HOT BREAKFAST 

Breakfast, as good as homemade. 

€5.50 

SPOILT FOR CHOICE 

A WIDE SELECTION OF 

FRAGRANCES, MAKE-UP 

& GIFTS AVAILABLE IN 

OUR LATEST AWARD 

WINNING INFLIGHT 

MAGAZINE, ASK YOUR 

CABIN CREW FOR A COPY. 




SERVED HOT! 

CHEESEBURGER 

WITH RELISH 

Available only on selected fl ights. 

€5.00 

Hot stuff ! 

SERVED HOT! 

PREMIUM HOT DOG 

WITH KETCHUP 

You know... New York style. 

€5.00 

NEW TIMEOUT BAR 

€1.30 

NEW BOUNTY BAR 

€1.00 

BALISTO® MUESLI BAR 

€1.50 

PRINGLES 

€2.20 

SNACK PACK 

€5.00 

TORTILLA & SALSA DIP 

3.00 

NEW MARYLAND COOKIES 

€1.50 


The Award Winn ng 

RYANAIR 

MAGAZINE 

ONBOARD 

SHOPP NG 

FRAGRANCES 

GADGETS FOOD 

AND MORE 

PAGE 135 1 2 

SERVED HOT! 

HOT HAM & CHEESE 

CIABATTA 

Fill up on a delicious hot sandwich. 

€5.60 

SERVED HOT! 

BATCHELORS CUP A 

SOUP Tomato and vegetable or 

chicken and vegetable. 

€3.60 

NEW PARTY JELLIES 

€3.00 

WALKERS SHORTBREAD 

€1.50 

TGIF POTATO SKINS 

€1.50 

PEANUT M&M’S® (Large Pack) 

€3.00 

NEW PEPERAMI 

€1.50 

NEW CHUPA CHUPS BAG 

€2.00 

MINI CHEDDERS 

€2.00 

more overleaf... 

6 OCT– 5 NOV 

SS E 32 

WWW R AN RMA COM 

MASTERPEES 


art toilets 

CAESARS 

V SION 

REBORN! 


map of Europe 

BALT C 

BITES 

Caviar and 


SKI 

SEASON 

PREV EW 

ISSUE 32 OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 

| BEST RESORTS SHOR ST TRANSFERS CA I ST LIF S MUS HAVE TEMS

Thirsty? 

From the bar 

NEW 

SPARKLING 

WINE 

Something to celebrate? 

€7.00 

WATER 

(500ml) 

Still or sparkling 

€3.00 

SAILE & SABGA 

PREMIUM WINES 

Either a Merlot or Chardonnay. 

€5.95 

BRITVIC J2O 

Orange & 

Passionfruit 

€2.50 

RED BULL 

250ml. Gives you 

wings. 

€3.50 

SOFT DRINKS & JUICES 

€1.80 

NEW 

KOPPARBERG 

PEAR CIDER 

€6.00 

SPOILT FOR CHOICE 

A WIDE SELECTION OF 

FRAGRANCES, MAKE-UP 

& GIFTS AVAILABLE IN 

OUR LATEST AWARD 

WINNING INFLIGHT 

MAGAZINE, ASK YOUR 

CABIN CREW FOR A COPY. 

 

 

 

Wake up call... 

 

 

 

 

Buy one 

spirit, 

get one 

FREE! 

BULLSEYE BAGGIES 

Great 25ml spirits sachets. Gin, 

Rum, Vodka, Whiskey or Cognac 

are all on offer 

€5.50 

SAILE & SABGA GOURMET 

HOT CHOCOLATE, CAPPUCCINO, 

TEA & COFFEE 

12oz, extra large cups 

€3.00 



RYANAIR 

MAGAZINE 

ONBOARD 

SHOPPING 

FRAGRANCES, 

GADGETS, FOOD 

AND MORE 

PAGES 135–162 

BEER 

Beer brands vary, depending on 

destination. Please ask our crew. 

€4.50 

SAILE & SABGA 

GOURMET ESPRESSO 

€3.00 

more overleaf... 

16 OCT–15 NOV 

ISSUE 32 


MASTERPEES 


art toilets 

CAESAR’S 

VISION 

REBORN! 


map of Europe 

BALTIC 

BITES 

Caviar and 


SKI 

SEASON 

PREVIEW 

ISSUE 32 OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 

| BEST RESORTS, SHORTEST TRANSFERS, SCARIEST LIFTS, MUST-HAVE ITEMS

october-2009

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