featUre Cuisine Although I was animatedly welcomed to the ‘kingdom’ and gestured towards my private table, I was immediately distracted by the hypnotic beat of a djembe drum and began to follow its reverberations like a rat after the Pied Piper. After a venture through a host of trees bearing myriads of little lights, I found more than just my elusive djembe. A whole performing troupe, complete with actors, singers, musicians and even an acrobat, delighted me with a wonderfully resurrected version of an old Xhosa folk song. I spent a good half hour watching the shadows of their movements around a fire that only an <strong>Africa</strong>n could ignite. It was only when the spectacle calmed to the soothing voice of a single singer that I remembered that I had come here to eat. Once I finally sat down on my private dining platform in the trees (of course I first had to survey the view as if I were Mufasa surveying his kingdom), I was delighted by another sensual experience as my hands were gently washed in rosewater and my face painted in traditional Xhosa and Zulu celebratory custom. I was finally encouraged to make my way to the generous buffet spread, and I soon saw why. The fact that it was a bitterly cold night did not keep the crowds away from the big-top style tented outdoor venue that manages to keep the cold at bay with its fires, cozy blankets and the pure energy of its staff. Luckily the buffet that was feeding so many never seemed to run dry, as each time I saw a dish reach the After a few indulgent glasses of the Spier Estate’s own rich Merlot, I sat back and reveled in the spirit of <strong>Africa</strong> that was unfolding all around me. bottom of its pot, more of the freshly-prepared creation was generously ladled in. It’s no wonder each buffet station has its own residing chef! I was guided from station to station by Head Chef Colin Oldham, who handed me over with dismay to his deputy, Mavis Goba, on hearing the evidently disappointing news of my vegetarian habits. Originally from Idutywa in the Eastern Cape, Mavis is a beautiful and warm woman who fits her surroundings at Moyo perfectly. She loves to cook traditional <strong>Africa</strong>n dishes for visiting foreigners and laments the fact that many restaurants call themselves ‘<strong>Africa</strong>n’ when they in fact serve more Malay-type dishes. Although she is very proud of her traditional oxtail or ‘wors’ (sausage) with mielie pap and tomato and onion sauce, she carefully explains each of the many colorful vegetarian salad and main course offerings to me. I finally settle on a vegetable briyani with an aubergine and spinach side. This was a winner for me, with the steak and calamari proving to be favorites amongst the other diners, one of whom excitedly declared her meal to be ‘the best calamari in <strong>Africa</strong>!’ Mavis, who also has a passion for experimenting with seasonal seafood dishes, was duly chuffed by this. I must admit, though, that the dessert station was by far my favorite stop. I ploughed my way through most of the treats on offer, from the traditional Afrikaans ‘koeksister’ (dough dipped in syrup) to the 16 standards like pecan nut pie and chocolate brownies to the crowning glory – the Moyo Mojo upside-down malva pudding. While I did appreciate Mavis’s musings on how she likes to ‘play around’ with the fruits of the season, I must say I went straight for the decadence. After a few indulgent glasses of the Spier Estate’s own rich Merlot, I sat back and reveled in the spirit of <strong>Africa</strong> that was unfolding all around me. Entertainers at a table behind me were trying to teach a group of Jamaicans how to ‘click the right way’, my host was filling me in on the developments in his home country of Zimbabwe, a German diner was learning the ins and outs of the Cape township of Khayelitsha and a brave South <strong>Africa</strong>n guest was called up to stage to partake in the virtuosic percussion presentation unfolding beneath top hats and sequins on the stage. Ah, <strong>Africa</strong>. Energetic, incomprehensible, magical <strong>Africa</strong>. I really did not expect to find it at a restaurant. For more information or to book, visit www.moyo.co.za or contact Moyo Stellenbosch directly on +27 21 809 1133 Oh, and here’s a little starter to get you in the mood. If you are not planning a visit to Stellenbosch or even the Western Cape, do not despair! There is an array of Moyo restaurants throughout South <strong>Africa</strong>, with each one presenting its own unique energy and surprises. GAUTENG KWAZULU-NATAL WESTERN CAPE Zoo Lake Johannesburg +27 11 646 0058 Melrose Arch Johannesburg +27 11 684 1477 Fountains Pretoria +27 12 341 5729 uShaka Durban +27 31 332 0606 uShaka Pier Bar Durban +27 31 332 0606 Blouberg Cape Town +27 21 554 9671 Spier Estate Stellenbosch +27 809 1133
Change the way you see the world Experience Big 5 adventure by day, and million star romance by night at one of &Beyond’s 46 exceptional safari lodges in <strong>Africa</strong> and India. andBeyond.com &Beyond Kwandwe Private Game Reserve - Eastern Cape. A Relais & Châteaux member
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