Bespoke Tailoring in London's West End - Westminster City Council

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8.8 The nature of activities is such that clustering and business linkages are essential, for example to ensure quality control and to help train apprentices on the job. However, factors such as higher rents and rates and limited floorspace increasingly challenge this configuration. 8.9 Even though many businesses offer essentially the same product – namely, a suit – there is a sense of community amongst tailors who face similar issues and who are not necessarily in direct competition with one another. This applies as much to Savile Row and Soho as it does to, say, Hatton Garden for jewellery. What floor locations and size of premises do tailors occupy? 8.10 Bespoke tailoring occupies nearly 8 000m 2 of floorspace in the West End. Bespoke tailors are found mostly at basement and ground floor level. There are substantial benefits in being located at street level, in terms of displaying products and attracting clients, as well as contributing to the character and function of an area. This is especially true in Savile Row, whilst in Soho, many smaller businesses tend to be found on upper floors. 8.11 There is a great disparity in floorspace size between different businesses: on the one hand, some of the iconic Savile Row tailors occupy over a thousand square metres, whilst in Soho there are self-employed, elderly tailors working in very small workshops. What is the balance between manufacturing and retailing elements? 8.12 Bespoke tailoring is a creative manufacturing enterprise as well as a retailing business; suits are cut and built by an individual for an individual. Despite pressure to be space and cost efficient, most businesses do still undertake manufacturing work on site. Respondents emphasised that linking production to retailing is an important and essential tradition, because there are many complex stages involved in the production of garments and as such, staff need to work and train in close proximity. The boundaries between retailing and manufacturing are usually blurred, and for many tailors the two are intrinsically linked. Retail activities are generally found at ground floor, which means that other activities such as manufacture, administration and storage are undertaken at basement or upper floors. What rents are paid by bespoke tailoring businesses on and around Savile Row compared to other activities and areas within the West End 8.13 Based on information from the Valuation Office Agency and information provided by Drivers Jonas it is clear that rental levels paid by bespoke tailoring businesses have increased in the last 10 years. The extent of increase is similar to high class fashion retail businesses on Savile Row 50 Bespoke tailoring in London’s West End Final Report City of Westminster – March 2006
with increases in rental levels for high class fashion retail and bespoke tailoring of over 50% since 1995. 8.14 Whilst rental growth for retail premises on Savile Row has been lower than on the prime shopping frontages in the West End, such as Oxford Street, Regent Street and Bond Street, it has been higher than some other specialist trading areas such as Jermyn Street. 8.15 Although accommodation costs are one aspect of bespoke tailor’s costs they are a significant cost which has increased quite markedly in the last decade. What are the key issues facing tailors? 8.16 There are a range of wider issues which need to be addressed to protect the vitality and viability of bespoke tailoring in London’s West End. Businesses stated that the following issues were the most pressing and important ones facing their sector: 1. Rents and rates are expensive; 2. An industry under threat; 3. A need to address recruitment and training; 4. Tailors and supporting services and industries need to be clustered together; 5. Workshops should be on-site and larger, and tailors and apprentices need to work in close proximity; 6. Tailoring needs to be protected as a key cultural, historical and creative part of London; 7. Non-bespoke retailers are changing the face of Savile Row. Next steps 8.17 The city council intends to use the findings of this research to further engage with the landowners, the tailoring industry and agencies such as the London Development Agency and the Central London Partnership to ensure the future of Savile Row as the international home of bespoke tailoring in central London. 8.18 Actions to be considered will include: The creation of a Savile Row Strategic Group, led by the City Council, to bring together key players in the future of Savile Row. This will include representatives of the landowners and bespoke tailoring companies on and around Savile Row. Greater co-ordination and promotion of Savile Row as the destination and home of bespoke tailoring. Support for skills and training initiatives. Identify the medium term future floorspace needs of the tailoring industry on and around Savile Row and influence landowners to meet those needs. 51 Bespoke tailoring in London’s West End Final Report City of Westminster – March 2006
Page 1 and 2: Bespoke Tailoring in London’s Wes
Page 3 and 4: Bespoke Tailoring in London’s Wes
Page 5 and 6: EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 1. Introduction B
Page 7 and 8: highest at ground floor, and decrea
Page 9 and 10: 1. Introduction 1.1 Bespoke tailori
Page 11 and 12: 2. Study aims 2.1 This study has be
Page 13 and 14: 3. Planning policy context 3.1 Besp
Page 15 and 16: functional relationship to the surr
Page 17 and 18: 4. Research methodology Questionnai
Page 19 and 20: 4.12 The case studies illustrate th
Page 21 and 22: 5. Survey findings Business locatio
Page 23 and 24: according to the City of Westminste
Page 25 and 26: Contrasting amounts of workroom spa
Page 27 and 28: Workrooms on Savile Row. Employees
Page 29 and 30: 5.30 Storage and administration are
Page 31 and 32: Theme 2: A changing industry 5.37 T
Page 33 and 34: suits, which differ in important re
Page 35 and 36: 6. Case studies 6.1 Further to the
Page 37 and 38: Theme 6: The higher the proportion
Page 39 and 40: Row, and as well as adding to the c
Page 41 and 42: Clientele is largely British (aroun
Page 43 and 44: First floor location with lack of s
Page 45 and 46: Bespoke tailoring contributes to 20
Page 47 and 48: 7. Rental information and compariso
Page 49 and 50: Table 10: Summary valuation by addr
Page 51: 8. Conclusions and next steps 8.1 T
Page 55 and 56: Appendix 1: Bespoke tailoring lette
Page 57 and 58: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Name of business/ tai
Page 59 and 60: Appendix 2: List of survey particip
Page 61 and 62: Company Address Postcode Website ad
Page 63 and 64: Appendix 3: Business associations B
Page 65 and 66: Appendix 4: Comparative Rental valu
Page 67: Appendix 5: Maps Map1: Bespoke Tail

Bespoke Tailoring in London's West End - Westminster City Council

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