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and wear trousers and sport shirts
sans trapos.
In Desemboque, before our vehicle
rolled to a stop, it was surrounded by
long-haired Seri Indians. These
people are primitive, but they have
learned that those Gringos who do
manage to penetrate their territory
are good customers for their excellent
baskets and shell beads. They are
friendly, dirty, and honest. Children
might pick away at your gear out
of curiosity, but thievery is very unlikely,
even of desirable things left
exposed. We lost nothing. Colorful
clothing and food are much in demand
and make good trade items. A
long sleeved red shirt held up in
front of the crowd was a sure way
to get mobbed by anxious traders.
Short sleeved shirts and honest work
clothes are virtually worthless for
trade, as color is a status symbol outweighing
usefulness.
A good Seri plate-shaped basket
18" in diameter is worth about $5
cash or trade; large bowl-shaped baskets
run up to $50 American money.
If you wish to buy, carry small Mexican
bills because they are too poor
to make change.
The Seri is a culturally distinct
tribe in that all the neighboring tribes
practice some form of agriculture.
The Seri Indians have always been
and still are hunters and gatherers.
They grow nothing. They have al-
Bo'otse with red, white and blue decor
28 / Desert Magazine / January, 1965
ways been fiercely independent and
even now remain relatively pure in
blood, with probably less than a dozen
individuals of mixed blood. Their
extreme devotion to independence
and a strong liking for other people's
horse meat led to the Mexican
wars which reduced their population
to 280-odd members from a peak of
about 2000. Even now the people of
Hermosillo will warn you that it is
unsafe to venture into Seri country.
:m
The Mexican fear of the Seri is only
equalled by the Seri fear of the Mexican.
Many wild and unsubstantiated
stories are told of these isolated
people, but whatever the Seri reputation,
it would certainly be difficult
to find a more friendly or good natured
people anywhere.
It is a good policy to camp a half
mile or more from the village. There
is a covered well near the beach west
of Desemboque. A few important
"don'ts" are: Don't show guns or
liquor around the Indians as these
are prohibited by Mexican law. Don't
go into Desemboque after dark.
Those friendly - looking, rib - caged
mutts you see wandering all over
town by day become a pack of vicious
hunters as soon as the sun goes
down. Even the Indians stay indoors.
And finally, don't forget to bring a
present for Roberto, the Indian police
department. (Easily spotted by
his complete and clean uniform.)
If you're a fisherman, large native
dories are available. The motors are
generally unreliable so bring your
own. Eminently practical—yet procrastinators
by nature—the Seris do
not bother to caulk their boats. Bailing
tomorrow is easier than caulking
today!
The village during daylight hours
is a beehive of activity. Women make
baskets and prepare food in the open
Baskets made from elephant tree fibre.