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Aalto University publication series DOCTORAL DISSERTATIONS 22/2011 Consumers as Ecological Citizens in Clothing Markets Annu Markkula Aalto University Aalto University School of Economcis Department of Marketing
Aalto University publication series DOCTORAL DISSERTATIONS 22/2011 © Annu Markkula and Aalto University School of Economics ISBN 978-952-60-4065-3 (pdf) ISBN 978-952-60-4064-6 (printed) ISSN-L 1799-4934 ISSN 1799-4942 (pdf) ISSN 1799-4934 (printed) Aalto Print Helsinki 2011
Page 1: Department of Marketing Consumers a
Page 5 and 6: Tekijä(t) Annu Markkula Väitöski
Page 7 and 8: CONTENTS 1 INTRODUCTION............
Page 9 and 10: APPENDIX 2. NORMATIVE ETHICS IN CON
Page 11 and 12: 2007, Finnish Ministry of Trade and
Page 13 and 14: 8 Moreover, in both the academic li
Page 15 and 16: individualistic, market-based conce
Page 17 and 18: clothing consumption that I conduct
Page 19 and 20: 1.2 Clothing markets as a context f
Page 21 and 22: Venkatesh et al. 2010), in which qu
Page 23 and 24: consumer goods manifest aspects of
Page 25 and 26: (e.g., Moisander [2001] 2008, Gordo
Page 27 and 28: 2 CONSUMER CULTURE, SUSTAINABLE DEV
Page 29 and 30: in contexts where market mechanisti
Page 31 and 32: for the environment (Henion 1976).
Page 33 and 34: (Moisander [2001] 2008, Dolan 2002,
Page 35 and 36: 30 Furthermore, as Harrison et al.
Page 37 and 38: than consumers themselves about sus
Page 39 and 40: Crane (2005, 85) suggest that many
Page 41 and 42: consumption. 13 To start with, the
Page 43 and 44: a better society for all”. Theref
Page 45 and 46: accommodate the theories of citizen
Page 47 and 48: problematic. More specifically, thi
Page 49 and 50: participation in the solution of en
Page 51 and 52: 2.4.3 Questioning rights- and respo
Page 53 and 54:
environmental problems (MacGregor 2
Page 55 and 56:
3 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY This chapter
Page 57 and 58:
52 This position does not deny the
Page 59 and 60:
social category, and consumers’ a
Page 61 and 62:
‘locations’ in which human acto
Page 63 and 64:
Finally, the dimension of identitie
Page 65 and 66:
however, be considered epistemologi
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62 For the recruitment of the parti
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analytical process. The following s
Page 71 and 72:
Figure 1. Discourse analytic map 66
Page 73 and 74:
Murray (2003) emphasizes that a nar
Page 75 and 76:
70 However, in this study, the anal
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take place and to justify different
Page 79 and 80:
74 Basically, I followed the advice
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environmental politics can be, at t
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started by reading the passages tha
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Alvesson 2003, 23). 28 On the other
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4 CONSUMERISM AND ECOLOGICAL CITIZE
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available to consumers as ecologica
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Sustainability challenges were comm
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88 equally bad or even worse. Like,
Page 95 and 96:
epertoire also provided a means to
Page 97 and 98:
92 R: It surprises me that Hennes &
Page 99 and 100:
major clothing retailer’s selecti
Page 101 and 102:
96 - Questioning globalisation and
Page 103 and 104:
The Finnish saying, “a poor perso
Page 105 and 106:
point where people spend an awful l
Page 107 and 108:
they travel or go and get drunk. So
Page 109 and 110:
the lifestyles that are widely prop
Page 111 and 112:
or Samsung are meant to be used for
Page 113 and 114:
commonly suggested to run even more
Page 115 and 116:
associated with fashion as a social
Page 117 and 118:
112 hope that these kinds of things
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114 R: They [the garments] had been
Page 121 and 122:
116 find and go to some smaller sho
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Flea markets are represented here p
Page 125 and 126:
eing less well-off and feel guilt f
Page 127 and 128:
pantyhose and long johns in the Fin
Page 129 and 130:
those brands that I wear or clothes
Page 131 and 132:
is made of some ecological hemp or
Page 133 and 134:
and latest fashion. But of course t
Page 135 and 136:
R: This is this kind of quarter eco
Page 137 and 138:
Table 6. Social and personal taste
Page 139 and 140:
questions of aesthetics experiences
Page 141 and 142:
consumers are also supposed to supp
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challenges (Dolan 2002, Schaefer an
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embedded, bodily agents, consumers
Page 147 and 148:
5 CONCLUSIONS By carrying out this
Page 149 and 150:
could help solve contemporary envir
Page 151 and 152:
The utility of the theoretical and
Page 153 and 154:
that seeks to shape the possible fi
Page 155 and 156:
Murray 2003), which can be understo
Page 157 and 158:
152 In addition, the study founds s
Page 159 and 160:
subject without “cueing” partic
Page 161 and 162:
which more sustainable lifestyles c
Page 163 and 164:
paying as little as possible. Hence
Page 165 and 166:
5.4.2 Business practitioners This s
Page 167 and 168:
prioritising sales, especially by p
Page 169 and 170:
Arnould, E. J. (2007) Should consum
Page 171 and 172:
Caruana, R. & Crane, A. (2008) Cons
Page 173 and 174:
Featherstone, M. (1992) Postmoderni
Page 175 and 176:
Hall, S. ([1997] 2009b) The work of
Page 177 and 178:
Joy, A. & Venkatesh, A. (1994) Post
Page 179 and 180:
Moisander, J., Valtonen, A. & Hirst
Page 181 and 182:
Saren, M., Maclaran, P., Goulding,
Page 183 and 184:
Thompson, C. (1993) Modern truth an
Page 185 and 186:
European Commission (2005) Health a
Page 187 and 188:
out ever increasing amounts of gree
Page 189 and 190:
prior to, or even after, action”,
Page 191 and 192:
Appendix 4. Methodological appendix
Page 193 and 194:
188
Page 195 and 196:
190
Page 197 and 198:
When recruiting the participants, I
Page 199 and 200:
194
Page 201 and 202:
The vignettes - a short news story
Page 203 and 204:
198 a garment’s environmental imp
Page 205 and 206:
al. 1989, Thompson and Haytko 1997)
Page 207 and 208:
On the other hand, the idea of coll
Page 209 and 210:
Appendix table 2. Interpretative re
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