September 2012

groaning noise as the engine laboriously turns over and the battery goes flatter than the lens on the Hubbel Space Telescope. The
crowd quickly dissipates and walks away shaking their heads, leaving you sitting there quite embarrassed, wondering what happened!
The following may seem elementary, and many of you may already know all about it, but I never cease to be amazed at the
number of phone calls I receive from owners of older cars with 6 volt systems who are experiencing similar starting problems and are
stymied as to the solution to their woes. American cars and trucks didn't switch over to 12 Volt systems until the mid-1950's. Far too
many owners of vehicles with the original 6 volt systems who experience starting problems in desperation convert, or attempt to
convert, their vehicle to 12 Volts using special batteries or 6/12 Volt "converter" units, some resembling Rube Goldberg inventions,
with mixed results, rather than getting to the heart of the problem! My contention is, and always has been, "If they started back then,
they should start now!" However, that's true only if everything related to the starting system is in top condition.
I experienced this problem firsthand when I recently bought a 1949 Cadillac limousine. The previous owner complained that
the car would never start once the engine warmed up, so he had some enterprising "mechanic" install a 6/12 Volt "converter" that
would supposedly "fix the problem". I guess it may have worked for awhile – until the owner pulled the car into his garage one day
and noticed smoke billowing from the engine compartment. Yep, he had a wiring fire! After emptying a fire extinguisher on the
melted mess, he became disgusted with the car and decided to sell it.
Once I got the car home I went to work. I discovered the converter mounted on the inner fender well with a myriad of
narrow gauge wires going everywhere, most of which had fused together during the fire. I first eliminated this converter and
deposited it where it belonged – in the scrap metal pile. I then cut back and disposed of all non-original wiring and proceeded to
solder in new, proper gauge wires. I removed the starter and brought it to a local re-builder, who informed me the armature was junk.
I had a few extra parts and a new solenoid, so he was able to put together a starter, which now functioned as it should.
Then I found that someone had installed a light gauge positive battery cable. I had a new one custom-made at R.I. Wiring
Service in the heaviest gauge they offered – ONE GAUGE. Finally, I removed the negative ground strap and cleaned it, including all
points at which it was connected – starter bolt, frame, and the battery terminal itself. I then cleaned the end of the starter where it bolts
to the bell-housing, and the bell-housing itself, and installed the rebuilt starter. I bought a heavy-duty 6 volt battery with a minimum
of 650 cold cranking amps and installed it. VOILA! The engine now "whips over" and starts like new, no matter how hot the engine!
In summary, here are some things to check/remedy if you experience hard starting on your 6 Volt vehicle:
1. Condition of the engine itself. The engine must have at least decent compression. Check the condition of electrical components
like ignition points, condenser, rotor, distributor cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, engine timing, condition of the carburetor,
and proper carburetor adjustments.
2. Check the condition of the starter motor. Worn brushes, armature or solenoid, and worn end bushings can all cause problems.
3. CLEAN all electrical connections, including battery terminals, battery posts, and all points where battery cables attach to the
starter and frame. Don‘t forget to clean any rust and/or paint from the starter and the bellhousing where the starter bolts!
4. Buy the heaviest-duty battery available. A minimum of 650 cold cranking amps is recommended.
5. Install the heaviest gauge positive battery cable possible, such as #1 gauge as previously outlined. Be sure to install a cable of the
PROPER LENGTH! Too long a cable could result in current/voltage "drop", which will adversely affect the starting system.
If all of the above is observed, your pride and joy should spring to life upon demand each and every time!
FOG/PARKING LIGHT HOUSING TO FENDER GASKET
Discussion Started By Bill Bickle
When our ‗48s and ‗49s were new there was a gasket between the perimeter of the front of the fog light or parking
light assembly and the back of the opening in the fender where it mounts. This was the subject of a lively discussion on the
CLC online Forum a couple of months ago. It seems the gaskets frequently become so worn with time that they not only
disappear but have been largely lost to our collective memory. A well known Cadillac parts vendor even stated that he was
unaware of the gasket. Bill Bickle wrote, ―No one beyond a select few chapter members appear to know about this anomaly.
Jeff Maltby appears to have a set but he is the only one.‖
The Cadillac Master Parts List, the ultimate arbiter, shows that the gasket indeed exists. It‘s the ―Fog Lamp Opening
Rubber Gasket, group number 10.0085, part number 145 4917 for ‗49s and 145 2989 for ‗48s. Prez Joe Cutler writes that ―I've
scraped off melted remnants of said gaskets from original fog light housings during my restorations. The gaskets prevent junk
thrown up by the front wheels from ‗seeping‘ through the gap between the housings and inside of the fender. I also believe
they act as a ‗cushion‘ to help eliminate squeaks and other objectionable noises that could otherwise occur.‖ Since the gaskets
are not being reproduced, Joe adds that ―What I use, that is inexpensive and effective, is a simple roll of foam weather-strip
with one self-adhesive side, such as used around door openings in a home. I buy the largest size possible--I think it's ¾ x ¾ of
an inch (19 mm.). I've found it works quite well and no one will see it anyway once the fog light units are re-installed.‖