The German Wine Route Deutsches Weintor to Speyer - TravelDK

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158 BACK ROADS GERMANY DRIVE 15: The German Wine Route 159 The German Wine Route Set in gently rolling countryside between Pfälzer Wald’s wooded hills and the Rhine, with the French Alsace to the south, the winegrowing regions of Pfalz and Rheinhessen are Germany’s largest. This area has much in common with its southern neighbour, Alsace – from its architecture to the dialects spoken. They also share a history of alternating periods of French and German control. The drive follows an established and wellsign posted wine route past picturesque vineyards, beautiful villages, chic hotels and topquality restaurants. A gourmet experience is guaranteed. Visitors can look foward to tasting the different types of wine made by the numerous small vineyards scattered throughout the region. Other highlights include the ancient and historic cathedral cities of Mainz, Worms and Speyer. Above Vineyards along the way to Nierstein, see p165 ACTIVITIES Sample the wines on an oenophile’s tour of the region’s superb wineries Take a hike in the unspoiled Naturpark Pfälzer Wald in St Martin Scare yourself in the ossuary at Oppenheim and then tour the underground passages Hike to the impressive ruins of Wachtenburg for spectacular views over the Rhine Valley Acquire a taste for Saumagen, Pfalz’s most famous regional speciality Walluf Walluf Budenheim RHEINLAND- PFALZ Wörrstadt NIERSTEIN OPPENHEIM Köngernheim Weinolsheim Flonheim Gau- Gau- Odernheim Guntersblum Albig Albig Alsheim Alsheim Biebesheim Alzey Alzey Hessloch Hessloch Gernsheim Kriegsfeld Freimersheim WESTHOFEN Hamm Hamm BOCKENHEIM Göllheim Göllheim Grünstadt Eisenberg Hettenleidelheim FREINSHEIM Ungstein Ungstein Hochspeyer BAD BAD DÜRKHEIM WACHENHEIM DEIDESHEIM Esthal Esthal GIMMELDINGEN MAINZ MAINZ Osthofen Osthofen Flomborn Kirchheimbolanden Albisheim Flörsheim Alsenborn Ingelheim Gau- Gau- Algesheim Monsheim Bodenheim Trebur Trebur NACKENHEIM Böhl Böhl Laubenheim O�stein O�stein Bobenheim- Roxheim Roxheim Hessheim Rhein Rhein Rhein Rhein WORMS Lambsheim Frankenthal Maxdorf Maxdorf Hochheim Rüsselsheim Ludwigshafen Mutterstadt Limburgerhof Neuhofen Schi�erstadt Schi�erstadt Lambrecht Iggelheim NEUSTADT AN AN DER DER WEINSTRASSE Hassloch Hassloch Hambach ST MARTIN ST MARTIN MAIKAMMER EDENKOBEN Ramberg Ramberg Dudenhofen SPEYER Geinsheim Schwegenheim Oberhausen- Burrweiler Hainfeld Hainfeld Rinnthal Rinnthal Frankweiler Wilgartswiesen SIEBELDINGEN ANNWEILER Birkweiler Landau Landau BURG BURG TRIFELS Rheinhausen Philippsburg Germersheim Bellheim Bellheim BURG BURG LANDECK LEINSWEILER Klingenmünster Gleiszellen- Gleishorbach BAD BAD Dörrenbach BERGZABERN Rülzheim Dettenheim Hochstetten Linkenheim Leopoldshofen Schweigen- Minfeld Kandel Rechtenbach Minfeld Kandel Rechtenbach DEUTSCHES Wissembourg WEINTOR Wörth Wörth FRANCE Scheibenhardt Nieder Nieder Olm Olm Bürstadt Lampertheim Mannheim Above Busy street, Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, see p163 KEY 0 kilometres 0 miles Drive route 10 Below View of the rocky outcrop from Burg Trifels, Annweiler, see p161 10 PLAN YOUR DRIVE Start/finish: Deutsches Weintor to Speyer. Number of days: 5 days, allowing half a day to explore Oppenheim. Distance: 260 km (162 miles). Road conditions: The region has well paved minor roads with gentle gra dients. The Deutsche Weinstrasse is well signposted; look for the grape symbol. When to go: The tourist season begins with the Mandelblütenfest in March and con tinues until the end of October. Some attractions close for winter. Opening times: Most attractions open daily, while shops are open 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday, but close early on Saturdays. Shops and services are closed on Sundays. Most restaurants close their kitchens by 10pm. Major festivals: Neustadt an der Weinstrasse: Deutsches Weinlesefest (wine festival), Oct; Gimmeldingen: Mandelblütenfest (almond blossom festival), Mar/Apr; Bad Dürkheim: Wurstmarkt (sausage festival), Sep; Mainz: Mainzer Fastnacht (preLent carnival), Feb; Worms: Nibelungen Festspiele (theatre festival), late Jul; Backfischfest (folk festival), late Aug/ early Sep. DAY TRIP OPTIONS Lovers of fine food and wine will find the Weinstrasse at its most chic between Edenkoben and Freinsheim and enjoy the drive from Mainz to Worms, which is famous for winegrowing villages. For the lostintime charm of sleepy villages and hilltop castles, a drive from Bad Bergzabern to Burg Trifels is particularly magical. For full details, see p167.
160 BACK ROADS GERMANY DRIVE 15: The German Wine Route 161 Right Schloss of the Counts Palatine of Zweibrücken, Bad Bergzabern Centre right Imposing Burg Trifels, Annweiler Below Sweeping view of Annweiler from Burg Trifels WHERE TO STAY AROUND BAD BERGZABERN Zum Lam moderate Located just off the Deutsche Weinstrasse, between Bad Bergzabern and Klingenmünster, this hotel is housed in an 18th-century halftimbered inn. It offers rustic but com fort able en suite rooms as well as a decent restaurant serving Pfalz specialities. Winzergasse 37, 76889 Gleiszellen- Gleishorbach (5 km/3 miles from Bad Bergzabern); 06343 93 92 12; www.zum-lam.de LEINSWEILER Hotel Rebmann moderate This three-star hotel-cum-restaurant, in the centre of Leinsweiler, has refurbished en suite rooms with pale maple furnishings. Weinstrasse 8, 76829; 06345 954 00; www.hotel-rebmann.de Leinsweiler Hof moderate A four-star hotel in the countryside near Leinsweiler offering sweeping views over the surrounding vineyards. The elegant decor boasts modern and rustic touches. Facilities include a spa and an outdoor pool. Weinstrasse, 76829; 06345 40 90; www.leinsweilerhof.de ANNWEILER Scharfeneck moderate Offering good value, this refurbished, centrally located, non-smoking hotel has prettily furnished en suite single and double rooms and one spacious and stylish apartment. Altenstrasse 17, 76855; 06346 83 92; www.hotel-scharfeneck.de 1 Deutsches Weintor Rhineland-Palatinate; 76889 Marking the start of the 85-km (53-mile) Deutsche Weinstrasse (German Wine Route) since 1936, the Deutsches Weintor or German Wine Gate (Jan & Feb: closed Mon–Wed), located in the town of Schweigen- Rechtenbach, is a monumental sandstone gatehouse on the French border just north of the Alsatian town of Wissembourg. Visitors can taste and buy Pfalz wines here and there is a restau rant serving regional fare. ª Leave Schweigen-Rechtenbach on the B38 north, then turn left at the Deutsche Weinstrasse symbol to Bad Bergzabern and left on to Kettengasse to park. 2 Bad Bergzabern Rhineland-Palatinate; 76887 With its leafy spa quarter and a quaint historic centre focused on the Schloss of the Counts Palatine of Zweibrücken, Bad Bergzabern is the capital of the southern Weinstrasse. The ornate Renaissance Gasthaus Zum Engel (Angel’s Inn) near the Schloss houses a local history museum (open Wed, Fri– Sun). In the late 1930s, Bad Bergzabern formed part of the fortifications known as the Westwall; a bunker on Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150 Kurfürsten strasse (Jul–Oct: open Sun; Mar–Jun: open 1st Sun of month) now houses a museum. ª Leave Bad Bergzabern along the B48/Weinstrasse north to Burg Landeck. Park at the Burg. 3 Burg Landeck Rhineland-Palatinate; 76889 There is a fairy-tale quality to the village of Klingenmünster, nestling beneath forested hills and dominated by the ruined fortress of Burg Landeck (open daily), which towers 300 m (984 ft) above it. Built in the 13th century to defend a Benedictine abbey, it was destroyed by French troops in 1680 during the War of the Palatine Succession. It now houses a small museum and provides superb views. ª Return to the B48 north, turn left and then right, following signs to Slevogthof, to reach Leinsweiler. 4 Leinsweiler Rhineland-Palatinate; 76829 The arcaded town hall, the Rathaus of 1619, is the focus of this pretty, halftimbered village. Leinsweiler was the summer home of the German Impressionist painter Max Slevogt, who died in 1932 and is buried here. His house, the Slevogthof (open daily), stands on a hillside below the ruined fortress of Neukastel; the music room and library contain wall and ceiling paintings by the artist. ª Continue to Birkweiler, take the slip road up to the B10, turning left for Annweiler. Take care as this is a dangerous junction. Park near the town hall and tourist information office. Wine Country Vineyards dominate the pictureperfect land scape of the Pfalz and Rheinhessen region. Many local wine growers have a room set aside to sample and buy wines from the vineyard itself. However, German win e ries tend to be family-run affairs, so it is wise to call before visit ing. Dry white wines predo mi nate – Rieslings are often excel lent. Red wines made with the Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) grape are also gaining popularity. The region also produces Sekt (sparkling wines) and small quantities of Tresterbrand, the German equiva lent of the spirit, grappa. 5 Annweiler Rhineland-Palatinate; 76855 A former Free City of the Holy Roman Empire, Annweiler lies on the Queich river, which was once harnessed to provide power for the town’s tanneries. The Gerberviertel (tannery district) is particularly picturesque, with its water mill and half-timbered houses, three of which house the local history museum, the Museum Unterm Trifels (Mid-Mar–Nov: closed Mon; Nov–mid- Mar: open Sat & Sun). ª Leave the town of Annweiler along Altenstrasse, turning left on to Trifelsstrasse and follow signs to Burg Trifels. Park below the Burg. 6 Burg Trifels Rhineland-Palatinate; 76855 Perched on a narrow crag 300 m (984 ft) above Annweiler, Burg Trifels (Jan–Nov: open daily) is reached after a beautiful looping ascent through the forest. First mentioned in the 11th century, the castle was where the Salian emperors kept the imperial regalia of the Holy Roman Empire; Richard the Lionheart was briefly a prisoner here in 1193. The ruined castle was exten sively restored between 1938 and 1942. Visitors can also explore two more castle ruins – Scharfenberg and Anebos – which crown neighbouring crags. ª Return to Annweiler on Trifelsstrasse, leaving Annweiler on Landauerstrasse. Rejoin the B10 and then turn onto Weinstrasse to reach the village of Siebeldingen. Above View of the surrounding countryside from Burg Landeck, Klingenmünster Below Dense forest near Burg Trifels EAT AND DRINK DEUTSCHES WEINTOR Deutsches Weintor Restaurant moderate Elegantly modern, the restaurant at the Deutsches Weintor serves creative dishes based on regional and seasonal ingredients accompanied by red and white Pfalz wines. Weinstrasse 4, 76889 Schweigen- Rechtenbach; 06342 922 78 88; www.weintor.de; open daily AROUND BURG LANDECK Café Rosinchen inexpensive In a pretty, half-timbered house on Klingenmünster’s main street, Café Rosinchen serves home-made cakes, soups and Alsatian-style Flammkuchen (pizzas). Weinstrasse 39, 76889 Klingenmünster (1 km/half a mile from Burg Landeck); 06349 33 93; closed Mon LEINSWEILER Leinsweiler Hof moderate–expensive This restaurant provides lovely views across the countryside of the southern Weinstrasse. The menu emphasises regional and seasonal produce and includes refined versions of local specialities such as Saumagen. Weinstrasse, 76829; 06345 40 90; www.leinsweilerhof.de ANNWEILER S’Reiwerle inexpensive Housed in a lovely half-timbered house in the centre of Annweiler, this traditional Weinstube (wine bar) and restaurant serves dishes such as Saumagen or lamb sausages with savoy cabbage. Flitschberg 7, 76855; 06346 92 93 62; www.reiwerle.de; open Wed–Mon Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40
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The German Wine Route Deutsches Weintor to Speyer - TravelDK

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