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69 69 “Man, he surfs like a cat on acid,” one of <strong>the</strong> locals said about Josh Mulcoy at an <strong>is</strong>olated spot in far Nor<strong>the</strong>rn California. 70 Santa Cruz Harbor — off limits by law. 84 71 Art<strong>is</strong>t Jim Phillips's ride. 70 85 72 | 73 Harbor Bill surfed <strong>the</strong> Santa Cruz Harbor 71 mouth illegally for two decades, evading <strong>the</strong> Harbormaster with a bag of waterman's tricks. A surf magazine article with h<strong>is</strong> full name led to h<strong>is</strong> arrest. He challenged <strong>the</strong> charges against him and won. H<strong>is</strong> son, Josh Mulcoy, ra<strong>is</strong>ed on steady diet of Harbor barrels, finds a similar “drainer” in warmer waters. 86 | 87 72 74 Steve Pezman, publ<strong>is</strong>her of <strong>the</strong> legendary 88 The Surfer's Journal — an insightful, high quality magazine that explores surfing from all perspectives. 73 75 Reef pass, Tahiti. 89 76 Romeu Andreatta, founder of Brazils biggest surf magazine, Fluir, now publ<strong>is</strong>hes Alma surf. 74 75 77 Gabriel Medina. At 17, Medina <strong>is</strong> Brazil's newest star on <strong>the</strong> asp, and a huge threat to <strong>the</strong> establ<strong>is</strong>hed surf competitors… taking out 11-time world champ Kelly Slater in <strong>the</strong> quarter finals, and beating Australian powerhouse Joel Parkinson in <strong>the</strong> final to win <strong>the</strong> wct event in San Franc<strong>is</strong>co in November, 2011. 90 | 91 92 78 | 79 11-time World Champion Kelly Slater, 76 Maverick's contest, 2000. 93 80 | 81 Richard Kenvin [p.80] and Andrew Kidman 77 78 | 79 [p.81]. Both surfers are deeply interested in <strong>the</strong> surfing h<strong>is</strong>tory of <strong>the</strong>ir respective regions: San Diego and California, generally, for Kenvin; New South Wales and Australia, generally, for Kidman. The pair has collaborated and shared notes from <strong>the</strong>ir vast stores of local knowledge. 94 95 80 81 82 Tom Curren revolutionized surfing for at least two generations of Californians. Blending <strong>the</strong> style and positioning of 70s masters with <strong>the</strong> radical new maneuvers and deep tube riding of <strong>the</strong> 80s, Curren's r<strong>is</strong>e to professional dominance also coincided with major design breakthroughs. H<strong>is</strong> hometown shaper from Santa Barbara, Al Merrick, took <strong>the</strong> tri-fin Thruster design and added complex bottom configurations to create boards that had never before ex<strong>is</strong>ted. 96 97 82 83 Tom's daughter, Lee Ann Curren, was ra<strong>is</strong>ed by her mo<strong>the</strong>r in France. A key player in women's professional surfing, Lee Ann Curren continues <strong>the</strong> family legacy. Her style <strong>is</strong> elegant while lacking none of her fa<strong>the</strong>r's power and prec<strong>is</strong>ion. 98 83 99 84 A fiberglass scrap from one of Andy Irons's broken boards becomes memory to h<strong>is</strong> greatness as a surfer in <strong>the</strong> face of h<strong>is</strong> passing. 85 Grassroots in Kauai: Surfer/shaper/glasser, Lance Ebert, utilizing <strong>the</strong> outdoor glass shop. Danny Knapp brought a pair of shorts to trade for <strong>the</strong> workmanship. 86 | 87 Kyle Maligro gracing <strong>the</strong> walls of h<strong>is</strong> dad's surfboard factory. Kyle <strong>is</strong> known as one of <strong>the</strong> best standup body boarders in <strong>the</strong> world, pictured here at Off The Wall/Pipe. The snapshot to <strong>the</strong> right <strong>is</strong> of Danny Knapp, cranking a turn just below <strong>the</strong> number for Ono Burger number — all of th<strong>is</strong> being essential information… 88 World traveling charger Anthony Tashnick going for broke on a hefty beach break in Chiapas, Mexico. 89 Santa Cruz' futur<strong>is</strong>tic shaper, Bill “Stretch” Riedel, has been pushing <strong>the</strong> envelope in <strong>the</strong> shaping world for decades, first with high-performance windsurfing boards, and more recently with ultra lightweight Quad fin designs laminated in epoxy. Many of <strong>the</strong> world's top big wave riders turn to him for <strong>the</strong> equipment <strong>the</strong>y need when <strong>the</strong> surf <strong>is</strong> at its most critical. 90 | 91 “Stretch's” shaping bay. 92 Master glasser, Doug Fletcher, at <strong>the</strong> Haut factory in Santa Cruz. 93 Nat Young. A goofyfoot with a powerful backside attack and a full arsenal of aerials, Young's r<strong>is</strong>e began when he won <strong>the</strong> O'Neill Coldwater Classic Santa Cruz at age 17. The pivotal win gave him <strong>the</strong> momentum and support to take h<strong>is</strong> competitive game to a global level, and <strong>is</strong> now po<strong>is</strong>ed to break into <strong>the</strong> ranks of <strong>the</strong> World Championship Tour. 94 Using a stick and/or rakes, Jim Denevan makes temporary drawings on sand, earth, and ice that are eventually erased by waves and wea<strong>the</strong>r. 95 Cojo Ranch. 96 Patxi Oliden — originally a shaper of oars for <strong>the</strong> whaling fleet from Orio in <strong>the</strong> Basque county, taught himself to shape surfboards for <strong>the</strong> kids in h<strong>is</strong> community after meeting traveling Californians in <strong>the</strong> sixties 97 Mundaka <strong>is</strong> <strong>the</strong> heart of Basque country surfing, and many consider it to be one of <strong>the</strong> best waves in <strong>the</strong> world. 98 The cave at Papa Tangaroa on Rapa Nui <strong>is</strong> filled with urchins over sharp lava rock — a bad place to lose your board. 99 Society Islands, South Pacific. 100 Strong Polynesian roots on Rapa Nui. 100 101 Andres “Panda” Pakarati — craftsman, tattoo art<strong>is</strong>t, waterman. The people of Rapa Nui people have 115 re-emerged from <strong>the</strong> shadows of <strong>the</strong> past, recovering and reinventing <strong>the</strong>ir ancient art and culture. 101 102 Nor'easters in winter and hurricane swells in <strong>the</strong> 116 fall make New Jersey a prime surfing destination in <strong>the</strong> right season. 103 103 Doc Renneker — cancer special<strong>is</strong>t and big wave devotee, also <strong>the</strong> subject of writer William Finnegan's two-part article, “Playing Doc's Games,” publ<strong>is</strong>hed in The New Yorker and widely considered <strong>the</strong> best piece of surf writing ever publ<strong>is</strong>hed. 117 88 118 104 | 105 Under powerful winter swells, and in <strong>the</strong> shadows of <strong>the</strong> points and reefs of Santa Cruz, a few hidden beach breaks come to life. 89 106 | 107 Great White Sharks come with <strong>the</strong> 119 territory when surfing in Nor<strong>the</strong>rn California. 108 The sharks are a mostly unseen presence, and 90 | 91 free divers like Peter Kirkeby take <strong>the</strong>ir chances to 120 harvest <strong>the</strong> riches of Mendocino County. 92 93 109 Jay Moriarty — a gifted surfer with <strong>the</strong> clearest eyes and warmest smile Santa Cruz has ever known. From h<strong>is</strong> heroic tackling of Maverick's when he was only 16 to h<strong>is</strong> free diving exploits, which ultimately cost him h<strong>is</strong> life far too early. Jay's impact on h<strong>is</strong> community continues to th<strong>is</strong> day and <strong>is</strong> now <strong>the</strong> subject of a major motion picture, set to be released in late 2012. 121 122 | 123 94 95 96 97 98 99 110 December 4 th , 2007, Ghost Trees, looming ominous on <strong>the</strong> day Carmel-enforcer Peter Davi died paddle surfing <strong>the</strong>re. 111 The Santa Cruz meth epidemic of <strong>the</strong> late 90s and early 2000s snared many surfers, including Anthony Ruffo, in addiction and legal troubles. But looking forward, <strong>the</strong> best thing <strong>is</strong> a return to <strong>the</strong> surfing life. 112 Photographer Lawrence Beck shoots Maverick's with h<strong>is</strong> Leica set up. The cross <strong>is</strong> a memorial to Hawaiian surfer Mark Foo, who lost h<strong>is</strong> life surfing Maverick's. 113 Waimea Bay, where Foo made an international reputation for himself in <strong>the</strong> biggest surf of h<strong>is</strong> generation. 114 “Harbor Bill” Mulcoy has arguably spent as much time in <strong>the</strong> tube as any surfer alive. From h<strong>is</strong> clandestine years threading pits at <strong>the</strong> Santa Cruz Harbor to h<strong>is</strong> many runs up <strong>the</strong> coast to hollow beach coves, h<strong>is</strong> years in Hawaii surfing ultra-powerful reefs , and, more recently, trips to sou<strong>the</strong>rn Mexican sand points [pictured], Bill Mulcoy knows <strong>the</strong> inside of a wave better than most. Still going strong in h<strong>is</strong> mid-60s, Harbor Bill keeps doing what he does best. 115 Bruce Irons — Andy's younger bro<strong>the</strong>r and chief antagon<strong>is</strong>t, Bruce has handled <strong>the</strong> public face of h<strong>is</strong> bro<strong>the</strong>r's passing with strength and true grace of character. With skills honed from <strong>the</strong> fiercest sibling rivalry in surfing (not to mention <strong>the</strong> gladiator pit of Kauai's hierarchy), Bruce has maintained h<strong>is</strong> presence as a uniquely valued talent for surfers <strong>the</strong> world over, and far beyond <strong>the</strong> focus of competition. 116 Wally Fro<strong>is</strong>eth helped develop <strong>the</strong> Hot Curl surfboard with George Downing in <strong>the</strong> late 1930s, which first allowed surfers to ride high in <strong>the</strong> pocket of a wave and laid <strong>the</strong> foundation for all of <strong>the</strong> high performance designs that came afterwards. 117 Rob Machado, feeling something of <strong>the</strong> concepts that Fro<strong>is</strong>eth pioneered. 118 Alaska surfer and heli-ski guide, Shaun “F<strong>is</strong>hbone” Williams warms up midday by <strong>the</strong> fire — h<strong>is</strong> wolfdog and beargun close at hand. 119 Adam Replogle negotiates <strong>the</strong> moguls at Ghost Trees. 120 | 121 Worlds apart and inextricably connected through surfing: Waikiki and <strong>the</strong> river wave at E<strong>is</strong>bach, Munich. Breaking 24.7.365, E<strong>is</strong>bach has a full-blown surf scene that traces its lineage right back to Duke Kahanamoku and <strong>the</strong> beach boys in front of <strong>the</strong> Royal Hawaiian Hotel. 122 | 123 ‘The Westsiders’, Santa Cruz [left to right]: Paul Quilici, Joey Hutson, Ryan Buell, Adam Roberts, Robert Camacho, JR Richardson, Kory Kvenild, Guppy, Jake Fusari, Flea Virostko, Henry Puro Pedo, Keith Quilici, Kyle Thierman, Nacho Lopez, Carl Reimer r.i.p, Mark Collins, Gretchen Bach, Nick , Anthony Tashnick, Wally Waldemar, Nat Young, Russel Smith, Shawn Kemp, Jesse lopez, Mouse Man, Josh Loya, Kyle Murphy, Anthony Ruffo, Craig Lambert, Robert & Scott Thorn, Rick Noe r.i.p, Shawn ‘Barney’ Barron, Frog, Matt Collins, Pete Garaway, Randy Bonds, Garth Taylor. 124 125