Bologna 2014
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SCOTLAND<br />
To truly appreciate a good scotch, a man must have<br />
an understanding of its rich history and process.<br />
All countries have icons, none more so than<br />
Scotland. Within its rich cultural heritage, whisky<br />
has a proud place. The country and the drink are<br />
synonymous.<br />
This is hardly surprising as Scotland has become<br />
known as the home of whisky. Its damp and cool<br />
climate may not always be welcoming, but it is ideal<br />
for producing two things that contribute to great<br />
whisky: barley and peat.<br />
It is no longer the only place that you can get<br />
great whisky, and some people contend that<br />
the Irish may have beaten Scots to the punch in<br />
distilling it. However history is written by the winners<br />
and it’s hard to dispute that whisky has delivered this<br />
small country in Northern Europe a winning hand.<br />
Exports of Scotch whisky were worth a record<br />
£4.3 billion in 2012 and contributed about £1<br />
billion to the UK Exchequer in taxes. Scotch<br />
accounts for a quarter of UK food and drink exports<br />
with 140 million cases exported worldwide to 200<br />
different countries. A further 20 million casks lie<br />
maturing in warehouses in Scotland.<br />
There are 108 distilleries licensed to produce<br />
Scotch whisky, employing 10,000<br />
people directly and 35,000<br />
indirectly across the UK. Whatever<br />
way you look at it, Scotch whisky is a<br />
massive success.<br />
It’s no surprise then that the<br />
description ‘Scotch whisky’ is<br />
jealously guarded, and refers only to whisky that<br />
has been made and matured in Scotland under<br />
strictly defined conditions. Although Scotch whisky<br />
has been produced for hundreds of years, the<br />
actual definition of what constitutes Scotch is only<br />
just over one hundred years old and dates back<br />
to a court case in Islington London. The case was<br />
brought by the local borough against two wine<br />
and spirit merchants for selling a ‘Fine Old Scotch<br />
Whisky’ that was “not of the nature, substance and<br />
quality demanded” by the provisions<br />
of the 1875 Food & Drugs Act. At a<br />
time when grain whisky was in the<br />
ascendant, the drink was composed<br />
of 90% grain and 10% malt whisky.<br />
Islington won the case despite the<br />
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136 The Ultimate Book of Whisky<br />
Glenfarclas<br />
Glenfarclas is one of the few distilleries left that are<br />
still family-owned and still have family members<br />
working within the business. The Distillery has been<br />
in the Grant family ( not to William Grant of Balvenie/<br />
Glenfiddich) ownership for nearly 150 years and<br />
despite numerous attempts by bigger companies<br />
to purchase the distillery they remain fiercely<br />
independent. They uphold an unfaltering big rich<br />
house-style, very rarely stray from their traditional<br />
roots and currently produce around 3.5 million litres<br />
of spirit in some of the largest stills in Scotland.<br />
The distillery has long been famous for its heavily<br />
sherried house style of whisky. Only a small handful<br />
of distilleries are as committed to this style these days<br />
and even fewer deliver it as flawlessly. Two main<br />
types of Sherry cask cask are filled at Glenfarclas ex<br />
Oloroso and Fino both from Seveille in Spain. But<br />
even with a very traditional style of whisky Glenfarclas<br />
are still capable of innovation, in 1968 they were the<br />
very first distillery to commercially release a whisky at<br />
cask strength.<br />
The core range consists of 10, 15, 21, 25, 30, 40<br />
years old. There’s also the 105 cask strength, a 17<br />
year old which is available in the U.S and Japan and<br />
an 18 year old available in travel retail<br />
Very few distilleries have a core-range that can show<br />
off their spirit right through from 10yo to 40yo, with<br />
almost every age in between. But their range doesn’t<br />
stop there, Glenfarclas have another series called the<br />
Family Casks. The Family Casks series is unique and<br />
can show off some of the distilleries oldest whisky, with<br />
bottlings available from every year between 1952 and<br />
1996,all bottled as single casks and at cask strength.<br />
Add to this range a string of anniversary bottlings and<br />
the occasional limited release and you have the most<br />
incredible range of any distillery in the world.<br />
This wealth of maturing stock is unique and you<br />
won’t find this library of bottlings from any other<br />
distillery. Independent bottlings have been available<br />
in the past but they aren’t easy to come by, especially<br />
as they’re usually under a different name and won’t<br />
carry Glenfarclas anywhere on the label.<br />
Glenfarclas 15yo 43%<br />
Soft and silky but not without a little bite, notes of sweet spicy fruit and<br />
butter-scotch combine with red grape and a hint of peat.<br />
Region: Speyside ✮ Style: Single Malt<br />
Glenfarclas 105<br />
This whisky bursts with a fruity intensity<br />
that almost knocks you back, as it holds<br />
onto your palate it grows with sweetness<br />
and delivers an explosion of grapey fruit<br />
and spice along with golden syrup.<br />
Region: Speyside ✮ Style: Single Malt<br />
Glenfaclas 21yo<br />
Soft and complex but with lighter<br />
flavours than the 15yo, baked apples<br />
scattered with chocolate covered<br />
raisins, vanilla and ginger bread<br />
Region: Speyside ✮ Style: Single Malt<br />
136 The Ultimate Book of Whisky<br />
Kentucky, USA 137<br />
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