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Living Landscapes in South Dakota - Plant Materials Program - US ...

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Landscape for Cool<strong>in</strong>g Efficiency<br />

Trees and shrubs can provide valuable shade to a house, reduc<strong>in</strong>g energy consumed<br />

for air condition<strong>in</strong>g. A shaded roof reduces house temperature as much as 10 degrees.<br />

Tall, deciduous trees are preferred for roof shade. Their structure provides shade <strong>in</strong><br />

summer but lets sunlight through <strong>in</strong> w<strong>in</strong>ter. Optimum distance from tall shade trees to<br />

a build<strong>in</strong>g is 15 to 20 feet. Sturdy species such as bur oak, hackberry, or green ash<br />

are preferred to reduce the risk of broken limbs damag<strong>in</strong>g the build<strong>in</strong>g. Proper prun<strong>in</strong>g<br />

as the trees grow is crucial for strong limbs and trunks, and prevents rubb<strong>in</strong>g damage<br />

to the sid<strong>in</strong>g or roof. Instructions are found <strong>in</strong> the NDSU Extension Service Bullet<strong>in</strong><br />

“Prun<strong>in</strong>g Trees and Shrubs” at<br />

http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/trees/h1036w.htm.<br />

Tall trees planted on the east side and southeast corner <strong>in</strong>tercept the morn<strong>in</strong>g sun,<br />

significantly slow<strong>in</strong>g the warm-up process <strong>in</strong> the summer. Tall trees on the south side<br />

block valuable sunlight <strong>in</strong> w<strong>in</strong>ter. Tall trees on the west side and southwest corner<br />

provide valuable shade from the summer sun on hot afternoons and even<strong>in</strong>gs.<br />

Shrubs planted close to the house on the west and east sides can <strong>in</strong>tercept or defl ect<br />

solar heat, reduc<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>terior temperature. Choose species that are adapted for the<br />

space and size of the wall to be screened. Where rubb<strong>in</strong>g damage could occur, plant<br />

shrubs far enough away from the house or prune them as needed.<br />

V<strong>in</strong>es can also be grown near or on build<strong>in</strong>gs to <strong>in</strong>tercept solar heat. Select<strong>in</strong>g a<br />

species with desired traits is important. Not all v<strong>in</strong>e species are capable of climb<strong>in</strong>g<br />

bare walls. Riverbank grape is a native v<strong>in</strong>e that will produce edible fruit if pruned<br />

annually. It is not adapted to climb a bare wall but is suited to a trellis. Woodb<strong>in</strong>e is<br />

another native v<strong>in</strong>e that is well suited to <strong>in</strong>tercept solar heat. If you fi nd v<strong>in</strong>es visually<br />

appeal<strong>in</strong>g, they may have a niche <strong>in</strong> your landscape. Information about different v<strong>in</strong>e<br />

species is available from the NDSU Extension Service,<br />

http://www.ext.nodak.edu/county/cass/horticulture/treeshrub/v<strong>in</strong>es.htm.<br />

Air conditioners and heat pumps will consume less energy if they are shaded. A<br />

tall shrub or v<strong>in</strong>e-covered arbor can provide shade and attractively screen such<br />

equipment. Leave at least 5 feet of clear space around air conditioners and heat pumps<br />

for air circulation and ma<strong>in</strong>tenance. Place the plant so that at maturity it will shade the<br />

air conditioner or heat pump when the appliance is runn<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

Landscape to M<strong>in</strong>imize Ma<strong>in</strong>tenance<br />

Lawn mow<strong>in</strong>g burns 800 million gallons of gasol<strong>in</strong>e annually <strong>in</strong> the <strong>US</strong>A. About 90<br />

million pounds of pesticides are put on lawns and gardens annually. Irrigat<strong>in</strong>g a 75 x 100<br />

square-foot lawn with ¾ <strong>in</strong>ch of water twice a week for eight weeks demands pump<strong>in</strong>g<br />

and pay<strong>in</strong>g for 56,000 gallons of water. Substantial amounts of chemicals and energy<br />

are used to treat and pump municipal and rural water applied to lawns. Landscap<strong>in</strong>g with<br />

native plants m<strong>in</strong>imizes mow<strong>in</strong>g, water<strong>in</strong>g, fertiliz<strong>in</strong>g, and pesticide <strong>in</strong>puts.<br />

Most lawns <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Dakota</strong> are Kentucky bluegrass. They are mowed frequently from<br />

May through September. They are regularly irrigated <strong>in</strong> western <strong>South</strong> <strong>Dakota</strong>, and<br />

commonly irrigated elsewhere <strong>in</strong> the state. Fertilizer and herbicides are often applied to<br />

this <strong>in</strong>troduced species.<br />

Blue grama and buffalograss are short, native perennial grasses, that are alternatives<br />

to Kentucky bluegrass for lawns. They are drought-tolerant, warm-season species<br />

that grow very little before June or after August. These short species require only 3<br />

to 4 mow<strong>in</strong>gs per year and no fertilizer. Irrigation may be required for establishment.<br />

Established stands do not require irrigation and spr<strong>in</strong>g or fall water<strong>in</strong>g may encourage<br />

weed growth. Dur<strong>in</strong>g drought and periods of dormancy, these species turn a tan color.<br />

Photo courtesy of SDSU Cooperative Extension Service<br />

Buffalograss lawns require far less energy, time, and money to ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong> than Kentucky bluegrass.<br />

Buffalograss prefers clay to loamy soil, while blue grama is adapted to soils rang<strong>in</strong>g from<br />

sand to clay. They look alike and can be grown alone or together. <strong>Plant</strong>ed as a mixture,<br />

blue grama and buffalograss have a uniform appearance.<br />

One plan would be to plant Kentucky bluegrass next to the house and native species on<br />

the rema<strong>in</strong>der. A strip of native flowers can attractively separate the Kentucky bluegrass<br />

from the low-ma<strong>in</strong>tenance blue grama/buffalograss area.<br />

Irrigation costs can be reduced by pip<strong>in</strong>g or channel<strong>in</strong>g roof runoff toward trees, a ra<strong>in</strong><br />

garden, or native flowerbeds. The runoff from some driveways can likewise be diverted to<br />

enhance plant growth and vigor.<br />

Mulch can be used for sav<strong>in</strong>g water, labor, and energy. Wood chips, leaves, grass<br />

clipp<strong>in</strong>gs, or other organic matter around trees, shrubs, and flowers lower soil<br />

temperature and reduce evaporation. A layer of mulch 2 to 3 <strong>in</strong>ches thick will usually<br />

control weeds. Mulch materials can often be obta<strong>in</strong>ed free from a city ma<strong>in</strong>tenance<br />

department, neighbors, or utility company. More <strong>in</strong>formation about mulch<strong>in</strong>g is available<br />

at http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/feature/backyard/Mulch<strong>in</strong>g.html.<br />

Snow is an important consideration <strong>in</strong> landscap<strong>in</strong>g. W<strong>in</strong>dbreaks, yard trees, and shrubs<br />

will reduce snowblower work and fuel consumption if correctly placed. Spruce and<br />

juniper trees with low-level branches <strong>in</strong>tact provide maximum density and trap snow <strong>in</strong><br />

the shortest, deepest drifts. Deciduous trees with the lower branches removed yield the<br />

longest drifts. Multiple tree rows <strong>in</strong>crease density and shorten snow drifts.<br />

34<br />

Energy Conservation

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