The Hills are Alive - Lissa Poirot

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ƒravel s a l z b u r g ƒravel s a l z b u r g Top to Bottom: Although winter’s snow hides Mirabell Garden’s color, the winter-white scene is still an impressive sight to behold; Panoramic view of Salzburg; Step back in time for a dinner served by candlelight and period-costumed musicians performing classic works by Mozart 72 LIFEstyles ! DECEMBER 2007 My desire to visit Salzburg was never because I have a passion for classical music and this is the birthplace of Mozart. It wasn’t because I wanted to see where Maria Von Trapp fell in love while singing to the children in her care (although I very much want to burst out singing “The hills are alive with the sound of music” when I first arrive by bus into the city, surrounded by hills and mountains). Perhaps it is because of my German lineage (don’t let my husband’s French name fool you) that I have always had a desire to visit the Alpine villages and towns of Bavaria. It was everything I ever imagined. A Musical History So here I sit, on my chaise in the Hotel Sacher Salzburg, eating my rich, chocolate, world-renowned Sacher Torte and taking in the view as the cathedral bells toll 6. It’s time to visit that cathedral and monastery for my first evening in Salzburg, a Mozart dinner concert in St. Peter’s Baroque Hall. Candelabras flank the white-linen covered tables, the silver polished and sparkling and period-costumed waiters are freely pouring Austrian wine. The three-course dinner begins with songs performed from “Don Giovanni.” As is custom in Austrian opera, songs are sung in the language in which they were written, so Italian fills the air. A short break for a light lemon cream soup with cinnamon, and then we are entertained with a selection of songs from “Le Nozze di Figaro.” Then it’s dinner of roasted capon breast with polenta and truffle-sagecream sauce served with potatoes and vegetables from “Father Prior’s garden.” The concert ends with performances from “Die Zauberflote” and a semi-frozen parfait of honey. The event and meal are the perfect welcome to an ancient city. The next day is right out of “The Sound of Music,” visiting sites I have only seen in the movie. Austrians are bemused with our fascination with the movie and the Von Trapps, but I am eager to discover Salzburg myself. I cross the street of the Hotel Sacher to visit the Mozart Museum, as this was his birthplace. His original home was destroyed during WWII, but an exact replica has been created nearby, with the addition of a basement to keep everything safe should history repeat itself. Beside the museum is Mirabell Gardens and Palace (where Julie Andrews trapezes with the children), which unfortunately lost most of its belongings to Napoleon. The palace and gardens are Reich Dietrich’s homage to his beloved Salome. A popular figurehead, Dietrich did not want to be named an archbishop – Salzburg was ruled by archbishops for 300 years – as he wanted to marry Salome. He was elected bishop anyway, so he asked the pope for permission to marry. Denied, he kept Salome in this palace, fathering her 15 children and loving her his entire life. Top to Bottom: Tiny streets lined with Bavarian shops make holiday shopping even more fun; A tribute to Mozart. LIFEstyles ! DECEMBER 2007 73
ƒravel s a l z b u r g Fortress Around My Heart Traversing the very walkable old districts of Salzburg, I catch glimpses of the fortress walls that once safely held and protected Hohensalzburg Fortress, which was constructed in 1077 and has never been conquered. At the base of Monchsberg are shops, restaurants, museums and palatial squares, and I encounter something new at every turn – the Salzburg Cathedral, the Residenz Palace of the archbishop rulers, the Salzburg Museum. It is on these streets that the famed Salzburg Festival takes place annually, an elegant parade of Europe’s most fashionable visiting to celebrate music and drama. Old Town Salzburg, most visited by tourists, is filled with tiny, winding streets lined with shops selling true Bavarian goods. But it is the imposing fortress that is most worthy of a visit, as it is one of the largest and best preserved castles in Central and Eastern Europe. A cable car quickly ascends to the top of the fortress, affording 360-degree views of Salzburg. St. Peter’s Cemetery, located inside the walls on the lower level, is still in use by the monastery and is the final resting place to many members of Mozart’s family. Catacombs dig into the side of the Monchsberg, and tomb markers are surprisingly decorative and whimsical. (Sound of Music fans will recognize the graveyard as a Von Trapp hiding place at the end of the movie.) The fortress has restaurants at various levels, such as the Stieglkeller, a traditional beer garden overlooking St. Peter’s and the river. Top to Bottom: Towers; Salzburg and its imposing fortress amidst its winter snow; December brings a number of Christmas markets to Salzburg’s snowcovered streets. 74 LIFEstyles ! DECEMBER 2007 Winter Wonderland Being a city nestled into the foothills of the Alps, travelers in search of adventure will love the Salzburg Snow Shuttle, a daily connection to the most beautiful and popular skiing regions in the area. The multilingual Snow Shuttle guide also arranges lift tickets, ski rentals and lessons, so all visitors need to do is be ready to have some fun. Depending on snow conditions – although the area is covered in snow most of winter – skiing, snowboarding, tobogganing and even sleigh rides can be enjoyed in Obertauern, Zauchensee, Gastein, Kitzbuhel, Schladming, Flachau, Leogang, Hinterglemm, Zell-am-See or Kitzsteinhorn. One of the most beautiful times of year to visit Salzburg is the month of December, when its snow-covered streets are festively decorated for Christmas and an array of Christmas markets are spread out across the city – go early and bring home handmade ornaments of intricate designs and blown glass for everyone of your Christmas list! Music continues to be a draw with contemplative Advent concerts occurring across the city, as well. When I return to my hotel on my last evening, I take in the view once again and wish I could stay longer and just continue to take in the beauty that surrounds me. Austria has taken my breath away. I guess I’ll have to return to get it back. ! For More Information City of Salzburg Tourism: salzburg.info; Sacher Hotels: sacher.com
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The Hills are Alive - Lissa Poirot

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