to Download PDF file - Moss Engineering

This time I have been able to replace the old, kinky, chain with some new
Wipperman and set up the adjustment fairly easily, although there is no
adjusting screw on this frame either.
Talking of chains, the primary was really slack and the adjustment
already near the end of its travel - as was the final drive - one of those
situations where, if I had adjusted the primary and then followed up
taking the ensuing slack out of the final drive chain I'd have needed a
frame extension to catch the back wheel. Scrap both chains was the only
answer - they exhibited a lot of play in the joints so were obviously well
worn. Fortunately the sprockets were still reasonable.
New chain for the primary brought the gearbox forward to a sensible
position except that on the offside it fouled the footrest bracket (raked
back flat plate variety bolted on the frame). I ovecame this little snag by
offsetting the bracket with a 1/2" packing and longer bolts. However, as
you might expect, that was NOT the end of the matter. Having fitted a
19T sprocket for sidecar use and replaced the single row non aligning
bearing in the outrigger with the correct double row self aligning variety I
now found that, with the gearbox in its new forward position, the
outrigger bracket lined up with only one of the securing bolt holes.
Obviously a mismatch here between the outrigger bracket and the
undertray. It appears the undertray may be a short one (I can't
even remember, now, if there are differences, but I'm sure someone will
be happy to tell me) as there is a sizeable gap at the back between it and
the rear mudguard. Anyway, it was my turn to bodge a little and I
carefully elongated the appropriate slot in the outrigger bracket by about
3/8". Even THAT was not the end of that little saga as I had to send off
to Graham again for the proper Scott bolts, nuts and washers to replace
the rubbish ones which I had taken off.
This brings us nicely to the bottom front attachment of the rear mudguard
- a long bolt inserted from the wheel side with some sort of spacers to fill
the gap behind the undertray, and a nut in the awkward position under the
undertay. Now to get the wheel out it is easier if you take the mudguard
off first but you can't take the mudguard off first because you can't extract
that long bolt until you take the wheel out, but you can't take the wheel
out until you...........well you know the rest. I cut the bolt through
and silver soldered a nut to the face of the mudguard, and inserted a new
bolt through from the front (with spacer) - much easier to work on
although you still have to put a spanner on the bolt head under the tray.