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Page 16 November/December 2003<br />
Cyclades Chronicle<br />
October 2003<br />
I’d been out to the Greek island of Milos for<br />
two weeks last year and enjoyed spectacular<br />
multicoloured cliff scenery from warm deep<br />
clear seas, whilst there a mention to Rod<br />
Feldtmann (www.seakayakgreece.com) that<br />
an island-hopping trip might be a good idea<br />
struck home. A multi island tour to Santorini<br />
and a possible return had been top of Rod’s<br />
wish list for some time; this year (2003) was<br />
time to achieve that goal.<br />
Rod, an Australian, married to Petrinela and<br />
father of two daughters, has organised sea<br />
kayaking tours from his home in Milos for<br />
several years and for this adventure recruited<br />
Jeff and Heidi from Montana, USA to<br />
accompany him. I was keen to sample warm<br />
days and sleeping on sun warmed beaches and<br />
needed very little persuasion to make up the<br />
team.<br />
Wednesday 1 st Oct<br />
The peace and quiet of the local village was<br />
disturbed as Jeff and I dashed around for<br />
provisions, Rod picked up Heidi from the<br />
Airport and we assembled at our departure<br />
port of Pallonia. Heidi had been subject to<br />
delays on her air travel and had the task of<br />
loading up a kayak and setting off within a<br />
mere couple of hours of arriving on Milos.<br />
Last minute purchases of bread, goodies and<br />
supplies of water were crammed into the<br />
remaining corners of the kayaks and we were<br />
on our way.<br />
Heading northeast we soon reached Kymolos,<br />
skirted the south end of Poliegos and gazed at<br />
the cliffs, spires and pinnacles of this<br />
uninhabited island. As we followed the<br />
island’s east coast to our destination an<br />
increasing wind slowed progress and it was<br />
with some relief when we landed on the beach<br />
in near dark conditions.<br />
Thursday 2 nd<br />
The wind persisted throughout the night,<br />
building up a disturbed sea and our departure<br />
was delayed until midday when a “go for it”<br />
decision was made. The 23km crossing to<br />
Folegandros is open to the winds and<br />
estimates that we were subject to a Force 6<br />
meant re-adjustments to our compass bearing.<br />
Some three hours of paddling and several<br />
sweep strokes later we were able to pick out<br />
features on the cliffs and relax a little as we<br />
put the wind to our backs and headed south.<br />
Huge smiles were exchanged as we landed on<br />
a secluded beach complete with nudists<br />
enjoying the sun.<br />
Pushing eyeballs back into their sockets we<br />
paddled ourselves away from the warmth and<br />
calm of this lovely beach and made our way<br />
to Angalli, here we left the kayaks and walked<br />
inland to the nearby town with its winding<br />
streets, alleyways and birds singing in the tree<br />
lined square. Dragging ourselves away from<br />
this delightful area we returned to the kayaks,<br />
ate at a nearby taverna then settled down for a<br />
well-earned rest.<br />
Friday 3 rd<br />
Quieter seas greeted us in the morning and we<br />
pottered along the huge limestone cliffs of<br />
Folegandros and headed across to Sikinos.<br />
Lunch was taken on the summit rocks of the<br />
small island of Khardhiotiss where we were<br />
able to see both our previous route and look<br />
out towards our destination of Santorini. The<br />
beach at Sikinos had ample driftwood and<br />
soon enough material was gathered for a<br />
modest blaze. Jeff’s attempts to conserve<br />
water by boiling the spaghetti in ready salted<br />
seawater did little to enhance his culinary<br />
reputation as we made inroads into our store<br />
of bottled water. His excuse? “Pacific<br />
seawater must have a lower saline content; I’ll<br />
add a little more bottled water next time”.<br />
www.ribblecanoeclub.co.uk