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F/A-18 Hornet Article - Steve's RC Homepage

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HOMEBUILT<br />

This is the finished model after painting. Since the model was inspired by<br />

the Blue Angels, that was the only paint scheme that would do!<br />

Here is a close-up of the motor installation with the GWS EPS-350C geared<br />

motor. Installing a “soft-mount” prop saver is highly recommended; it will<br />

protect the prop from damage during landings.<br />

the way forward, and no other ballast was<br />

required. After the best battery location<br />

has been determined, apply a strip of<br />

Velcro® to the centerline of the fuselage<br />

and to the battery. This will allow easy<br />

adjustments of the center of gravity.<br />

PAINTING<br />

Due to the all-foam construction, painting is<br />

not required, but the model certainly looks<br />

better with a good paint job! Inexpensive<br />

acrylic paints (available at most craft stores)<br />

work well; they are inexpensive and can be<br />

sprayed or brushed on. Several brands of<br />

spray-can enamels can be used as well, but<br />

test first to ensure the paint is compatible<br />

with the foam. To keep weight to a minimum,<br />

use the foam’s natural color in your<br />

paint scheme if at all possible. Note that a<br />

full coat of lightly-sprayed acrylic paint on<br />

this model adds 0.75 ounce.<br />

FLIGHT CONTROLS<br />

This model was designed to use full-span<br />

flaperons and full-flying stabilator flight<br />

controls, driven by three microservos.<br />

Flaps help this model perform at its best,<br />

providing not only improved takeoff and<br />

landing performance but also better<br />

maneuverability. A 6-channel transmitter<br />

with flaperon mixing is required to use<br />

the flaps. Ideally, they should be set at 10<br />

degrees for launch and at 30 degrees for<br />

landing. When flying in small fields, the<br />

flaps should be set at 10 degrees throughout<br />

the flight, which will allow the model<br />

to fly slower and turn tighter. If you’re flying<br />

in a larger field and want faster<br />

speeds or better aerobatics, retract the<br />

flaps to zero after launch. For even better<br />

performance, transmitter mixing can be<br />

used to mix elevator and flaps to provide<br />

maneuverable flaps that are similar to<br />

those found on the real F/A-<strong>18</strong>. To do this,<br />

set up a mix so that full up-elevator input<br />

will drop the wing flaps’ trailing edges<br />

down about 15 degrees.<br />

If you don’t have a transmitter with flaperon<br />

mixing, this model still flies fine with<br />

ailerons only. Note that when flying in<br />

small fields, you can set up the aileron<br />

linkages to droop the ailerons 10 degrees<br />

for better slow speed performance.<br />

FLYING<br />

Before flying, make sure that the control<br />

deflections and CG location are set as specified<br />

on the plans. Use the forward-CG<br />

location for your first flights since it provides<br />

the most stability. As you gain flight<br />

experience with the model, you can move<br />

the CG aft for more maneuverability. The<br />

CG location can be easily changed by moving<br />

the battery forward or aft in the nose.<br />

Launching the model is easy. Grip the<br />

airplane near the CG, set 10 degrees flaps<br />

(optional) and 50-percent throttle, and<br />

throw it moderately hard straight ahead<br />

and parallel to the ground. Be careful to<br />

keep your hand away from the prop as<br />

you throw it! Slowly add throttle soon<br />

after launch, and after the model has<br />

gained some speed and altitude retract<br />

the flaps if desired.<br />

You’ll find this model handles very well<br />

and is capable of big graceful aerobatics<br />

just like the Blue Angels.<br />

While landings can be made without<br />

flaps, adding up to 30-degrees flaps before<br />

landing really helps slow the airplane<br />

down and allows it to float in much easier.<br />

Note that it’s very important to return the<br />

elevator to neutral just before touchdown<br />

to prevent the stabilator tips from digging<br />

into the grass! Also, be sure to pull the<br />

throttle back completely before touchdown<br />

to prevent damage to the prop. It’s a very<br />

good idea to use a “soft-mount” prop protector<br />

adapter such as the Wobbly Adapter<br />

from All E R/C to help prevent prop damage<br />

during landings.<br />

The functional wing strakes add an<br />

interesting dimension to the flying characteristics<br />

of this model. Just like on the fullsize<br />

F/A-<strong>18</strong>, they allow the airplane to fly<br />

at very high angles of attack (AoA),<br />

enabling beautiful, nose-high, flared landings<br />

and extremely tight turns and loops.<br />

Because they allow a strong lift to develop<br />

forward of the CG, the strakes create a<br />

moderate pitch-up tendency at very high<br />

AoA (30 degrees or higher) that pilots<br />

need to be aware of. This usually occurs<br />

only when flying straight and level at very<br />

low speeds and is easy to control if the<br />

pilot knows about it ahead of time. But if<br />

you’d prefer not to experience this, just<br />

don’t fly the airplane to very high AoA.<br />

This model is easy to build from<br />

scratch, but for those that have difficulty<br />

finding Depron or BlueCore foam or want<br />

to save time cutting out templates and<br />

parts, laser-cut kits are available from 3D<br />

Foamy (3dfoamy.com).<br />

Good luck; I hope you have as much<br />

fun with this model as I have. A<br />

See the Source Guide on page XX for<br />

manufacturers’ contact information.<br />

BACKYARDFLYER.COM<br />

FOR MORE<br />

CONSTRUCTION<br />

PHOTOS<br />

7 BACKYARD FLYER

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