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Helpful Hints for the Novice Bow Builder (FAQ)
It is a very gratifying experience to
build your own traditional bow,
and then to shoot that same bow with
predictable accuracy. It is my hope
that each of you will become a successful
bowyer and archer. There are a few false
notions and some common problems
in building bows which new bowyers
should be cautioned against. After more
than fifty-two years in the archery business,
either building or teaching others to
build bows, I have been asked thousands
of questions about bows and related
items. I have compiled the answers to
these questions in an attempt to prevent
problems that might frustrate a novice
bowyer.
I am concerned that I might not fully
understand the whole bow making
process. How do I get started?
The first concern is the most important.
Watch the video and read the instructional
materials carefully, plan your procedures
in detail, and make a dry-run with all
materials and equipment you will need.
If, after carefully doing these things, you
still have questions, please feel free to
call us before beginning your project.
How Should I choose my Bow Draw
Weight?
Make archery fun. Choose a bow draw
weight that is comfortable, less than what
you are capable of pulling. Many new archers
become discouraged and quickly
lose interest in the sport when the bow is
so heavy that it is not fun to shoot, or when
the bow is so heavy that accuracy is lost.
Most states have a legal weight of 40-50
lbs. for big game. On a cold fall day when
you are stalking a buck, a lighter bow is
a joy to shoot. The secret to success is in
accuracy, not in muscle. In target practice
or tournament shooting, an even lighter
draw weight may be more desirable. A
heavier bow can be considered once you
have practiced, muscles are firming up
and you are getting a feel for archery.
Bow Design
It is of great concern to me that some
prospective first-time bowyers want to
revolutionize archery design. It seems
to be human nature to feel that your own
design will bring about superior
performance and artistic design
immediately. Personal pride in one’s
own handiwork is notable, but remember
that experimentation is usually a slow,
painful, and often expensive process.
Sometimes a change in recurve design
can cause limb twist, weight change, and a
lessening in performance. You will notice
that, in a general sense, the limb design
is very similar throughout the archery
industry. Often bows from various
manufacturers will appear different
because the riser section (handle) may
vary in design, shape or color of material.
How do I get rid of hand shock?
I am asked repeatedly about hand shock.
You often notice this when shooting a
longbow for the first time. After you have
shot for a while, you will become less
aware of this when you release the arrow.
You are less likely to notice this when
shooting a recurve, take-down recurve or
even a take-down longbow. It is a simple
law of physics, relating to weight and
mass. The flat longbow has a heavy, long
limb and a short, light riser. The motion of
the long limb cannot be absorbed by the
smaller riser, thus the hand shock. When
compared to the longbow, the recurve and
take-down recurve limb is shorter and
lighter with a larger and heavier riser; the
shock of the lighter limb moving forward
is absorbed by the riser, thus lessening the
hand shock and giving the “soft feel”.
What is “stacking”?
“Stacking” is a term which also bothers
novices. This is the amount of increase
in weight as the bow is drawn. It occurs
in all bows, but can be intensified in three
ways. First, the bow may be too short
for the draw length. A longer bow could
help this problem. Second, the ratio of
fiberglass weight or thickness should also
be increased. Third, the more radical, or
pronounced, the limb design, the more the
stack will increase. The use of multiple
tapers in a limb can also cause stacking.
Which bow limb laminations should I
choose?
For many centuries bows were made
from a solid piece of wood such as yew
or osage. The bows were household tools
used to hunt food and as protection from
enemies. Most of these were longbows.
Later, recurve styles were laminated with
strips of sinew or horn for more efficiency.
Now we have high-tech materials which
have revolutionized the archery world,
both in efficiency and design.
Compound bows are usually built
from solid fiberglass limbs because
of the great stress in the limb design.
Traditional bows, however, are built
from outer layers of glass laminate over
wood cores. The vast majority of today’s
bowyers use a core wood or cane laminate
combined with an outer layer of Bo-Tuff
Glass. Bow draw weight is determined by
the thickness of these two materials. Bow
design and length also determine
poundage. Careful records of micrometer
readings of total limb thickness can be
very helpful in determining bow weight.
Weight control is a science which must
be mastered by a good bowyer. Instructions
from manufacturers and suppliers
are also invaluable to the novice. Example:
The Bingham 58” Take-Down
Recurve bow will vary approximately 1
lb. for every change of .001 of an inch
in thickness. The Bingham longbow will
change approximately 1 lb. for every
change of .003 of an inch in thickness.
Bow Glass laminations come in
several widths, thicknesses, lengths and
colors. There are a number of core woods
available that can be used in bow
limbs. Refer to this catalog for a
list of many of the most beautiful
and best performing core wood and
cane laminations. These laminations
can be purchased either tapered or
parallel. Tapers are most commonly
used in a .002 per inch taper 36” long.
Some bowyers use several tapers with a
.001” taper per running inch. I prefer a
combination of a taper used with
parallels. With this combination, you
achieve excellent limb action and a fast,
smooth limb.
Overlays can be glued to limb tips to
furnish additional strength and color.
Core laminations may be dyed to add
variety under clear glass. Always use a
water or alcohol based dye.
Which riser should I choose?
With traditional bows (Recurves, Take-
Down Recurves, Longbows and Take-
Down Longbows), riser (handle) woods
are chosen for color, beauty of grain,
strength and ability to take a good finish.
Avoid soft woods as they cannot
stand the stress of a working bow. Avoid
those woods with an open grain structure,
those that will “bleed” color, or
those whose oily nature prohibits a good
finish.
With the advanced technology of high
stressed limbs found in compound bows
came multi-lamination risers made from
blocks of 1/16” veneer. These laminated
risers are very strong and are available
in many colors. Another way to achieve
a colorful riser is to laminate combinations
of accent strips made of hardwood,
phenolic or core-tuff. This will furnish
strength and beauty.
What is the difference between UL
and ULS glass?
ULS has a 50/50 woven fiberglass inlay
(scrim) that provides cross strength (90
degrees to the longitudinal axis). This
scrim layer will give strength lengthwise
to help reduce longitudinal cracking.
For most designs, however, UL and
ULS work equally well.
Bingham Projects
801.399.3470 Fax: 801.399.3471
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