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Off the Menu
PHOTOS COURTESY OF P&J OYSTER CO.
Oysters St. Claude pairs fried
oysters with the flavors of
Worcestershire, hot sauce,
butter and garlic.
Oyster cult
North Shore P&J progeny shells out pearls of wisdom from her family’s cookbook
By Christine Fontana
Contributing Writer
Oyster lovers now have a compendium
of recipes involving
Louisiana’s beloved
bivalves.
“The P&J Oyster
Cookbook” is a labor of love
for author Merri Sunseri-Schneider, a resident
of Hammond and general manager of P&J
Oyster Co., her family’s 139-year-old oyster
house in the French Quarter that distributes
oysters throughout the region.
The Sunseri family compiled the photo-filled
book with New Orleans publicist Kit Wohl.
“My mom was a writer and a phenomenal
cook, and she collected recipes over the years
and started writing this book five years before
her death,” says Sunseri-Schneider. “She desperately
wanted to complete it. I’m one of
seven kids and we were overwhelmed, but by
chance we met Kit Wohl and it was a blessing.
I know Mom would be proud, and whatever
idea you can think with oysters is in this book.”
“My family devised the P&J’s Bloody Mary
Shooters,” says Sunseri-Schneider of the appetizer
laced with a kick of alcohol. It consists of a
Bloody Mary finished with a raw oyster.
“They are impressive when served in
miniature martini glasses,” she says.
Sunseri-Schneider advises to make sure the
shooters are served ice cold.
“Put the glasses in the freezer just like you
were serving a martini.”
The garnish allows for creativity and can be
anything from pickled okra to a lemon wedge.
The shooters can complement a brunch
and also can be made without alcohol by using
Virgin Mary mix sans vodka.
Baked oysters are the centerpiece of Oyster
Biscuit Pudding from Chef Chris Lusk of
Café Adelaide in New Orleans.
“This is absolutely delicious, and when you
put this dish in the ramekins it looks extremely
classy,” says Sunseri-Schneider.
Crumbled buttermilk biscuits are used in
the recipe, and either prepared biscuits or a
favorite biscuit recipe work.
“It’s sophisticated but very simple,” says
Sunseri-Schneider.
Cheese is browned on top, and the classic
pairing of the oysters with Pernod or
Herbsaint ties together the flavors.
Meyer lemons, paprika, Worcestershire, hot
sauce, butter and garlic combine with fried oysters
in Oysters St. Claude by Chef Ken Smith of
Upperline restaurant in New Orleans.
“This is hands down one of my favorite
recipes,” says Sunseri-Schneider. “This is phenomenal.”
She suggests draining the oysters of their
liquor and refrigerate or freeze the juice for
later use.
“Oyster liquor is a divine thing, a secret
ingredient that adds distinction to recipes;
there’s something very special about it, unlike
clam juice or seafood stock.”
When frying oysters, look for bubbles to
form on the eye of the oyster, Sunseri-
Schneider says.
“That’s when they’re done and I pull them
out.” Inexpensive wasabi trays make perfect
serving dishes for the oysters.
“In other parts of the world, the oyster signifies
status, wealth and elegance,” Sunseri-
Schneider says. “We are very fortunate in
southeastern Louisiana to have a wonderful
abundance of oysters, and we can take advantage
of them in our kitchens. We are blessed
with oysters here.”•
22 April/May 2010