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Caribbean Compass Yachting Magazine January 2015

Welcome to Caribbean Compass, the most widely-read boating publication in the Caribbean! THE MOST NEWS YOU CAN USE - feature articles on cruising destinations, regattas, environment, events...

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JANUARY <strong>2015</strong> CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36<br />

Anchors… and Why<br />

They Don’t Work<br />

Many boaters new to the <strong>Caribbean</strong> are coming from marina life, and whether newbie<br />

bareboaters or experienced racing sailors, anchoring is a skill yet to be acquired.<br />

How many times in the Eastern <strong>Caribbean</strong> has one seen a boat come into a breezy<br />

anchorage, drop the anchor, veer a hundred or more feet of chain — and immediately<br />

drag off to the west Often the chain has piled up on top of the anchor. Then,<br />

as the boat drifts off downwind, the chain straightens out. When a full load finally<br />

comes on the anchor, it bounces across the bottom. It seldom digs in, but often<br />

catches another boat’s anchor line and confusion ensues.<br />

Getting the anchor to hold is like setting the hook when catching big fish. When<br />

the fish hits the hook and the reel starts spinning, first the drag is set lightly, and<br />

then set hard to set the hook. Similarly, when the anchor is dropped, the amount of<br />

rode (either chain or a combination of chain and line) let out initially should be only<br />

a little more than the depth of the water. Use the helm so the boat backs down head<br />

to wind. Veer more rode as the boat backs down, keeping some tension on the rode<br />

so it lays out straight and has some drag on the anchor, giving the anchor a chance<br />

to dig in. When you have veered rode three times the depth of the water, tighten the<br />

rode and finally make it fast. Hopefully the anchor has set. If it appears to be dragging,<br />

veer more rode, then secure. If you still continue to drag, hoist the anchor and<br />

try again.<br />

It must be remembered that the holding power of the anchor is greatly influenced<br />

by the angle between the bottom and the anchor rode. If the bottom is flat, a threeto-one<br />

ratio is usually sufficient in normal 12- to 15-knot tradewinds, but as wind<br />

increases more rode must be veered. The load on the anchor rode, caused by the<br />

windage of the boat, goes up with the square of the wind’s velocity. Thus the load on<br />

the anchor rode at 30 knots of wind is four times that of 15 knots. To keep a low<br />

angle of attack of the rode to the anchor, if the wind is gusting 30 knots you will have<br />

to veer rode five to six times the depth of the water.<br />

If you are anchoring on a steep slope, to obtain a low angle of attack at the anchor<br />

you will also have to veer rode five or six times the depth of the water. Conversely, if<br />

anchored bow on or bow tied to a tree ashore, where the bottom is steep to, since<br />

the stern anchor is pulling uphill you often will only have to veer one-and-a-half<br />

times or twice the depth of water.<br />

If anchored where there is a reversing current, it is necessary to put down a<br />

Bahamian moor as is shown and described on the back of every Imray Iolaire chart.<br />

Practically all the places in the Eastern <strong>Caribbean</strong> where you will need a Bahamian<br />

moor are also noted there.<br />

If you are anchored on chain and a swell starts surging the boat back and fetching<br />

hard on the anchor, it is time to veer more chain or to rig a nylon line as a shock<br />

absorber. Note that 3/8” chain has a breaking load of 3,640 pounds, but 1/2” threestrand<br />

nylon line has a breaking strain of 5,000 pounds. Secure 1/2” nylon line to<br />

the anchor chain via a rolling hitch or a chain hook, veer out the chain and the nylon<br />

line until there is 50 or more feet of nylon out, secure the line, continue to veer<br />

another 15 or more feet of chain, then secure the chain. The three-strand nylon line<br />

will act as a shock absorber. If the nylon line breaks, all is not lost as you will fetch<br />

up on the chain. Use plenty of chafe gear where the nylon goes through the chock.<br />

Use three-strand nylon rather than braided nylon, as the three-strand nylon will<br />

stretch more.<br />

For many more details on anchoring techniques, see Daria and Alex Blackwell’s<br />

Happy Hooking — the Art of Anchoring, available at Amazon.com.<br />

Most experienced cruising sailors I know feel that three anchors are a minimum<br />

number that a cruising yacht should carry. Iolaire carried seven, which seemed like a<br />

bit of overkill until we were caught by Klaus, a late-season (November) hurricane. We<br />

were anchored on the north side of St. Martin with two anchors out in a Y — all set,<br />

we thought, as “hurricanes in the <strong>Caribbean</strong> go west”. However Klaus went northeast,<br />

passing north of St. Martin. The wind clocked and veered eventually, making our nice<br />

SEAWISE WITH DON STREET<br />

As a boat pulls back on a stockless Danforth-type anchor…<br />

…the tips dig into the bottom…<br />

…burying the flukes<br />

anchorage under the lee of St. Martin a deadly anchorage on a lee shore. As the wind<br />

veered, our port anchor line went slack. All of the load came on the starboard anchor.<br />

So we dropped another anchor underfoot, veered line from the starboard anchor of<br />

the Y, and paid out line on the anchor we had just dropped until we had enough line<br />

veered to set the third anchor so the load was again spread between two anchors. As<br />

the wind continued to veer we did the same process again, dropping our fourth<br />

anchor, veering line and again riding on two anchors. As the wind continued to veer<br />

we repeated the process with anchors five and four, then with five and six.<br />

—Continued on next page<br />

TOSAKA

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