winter 2011/12 the journal of the world's greatest skiing - Summit Tour
winter 2011/12 the journal of the world's greatest skiing - Summit Tour
winter 2011/12 the journal of the world's greatest skiing - Summit Tour
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Canada’s original lodge goddess:<br />
Lizzie von Rummel.<br />
CHILLIN’ IN<br />
THE LODGE, ‘65<br />
GERMAN-SPEAKERS HAVE A FANCY WORD FOR IT:<br />
Gemütlichkeit, meaning cozy, comfortable and convivial. Until<br />
Canadians invent a more all-encompassing term, it’s as good a word<br />
as any to describe <strong>the</strong> essential CMH lodge experience. At upper left<br />
is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> earliest surviving photographs from <strong>the</strong> super-rustic<br />
Bugaboo sawmill camp where CMH was born in 1965. There’s Hans<br />
Gmoser, dabbling at <strong>the</strong> zi<strong>the</strong>r. In red is Brooks Dodge, <strong>the</strong> New<br />
Hampshire Olympic racer and extreme <strong>skiing</strong> pioneer who organized<br />
<strong>the</strong> world’s first Heli-Skiing week. (They scored bluebird skies and<br />
perfect powder, incidentally.)<br />
Gmoser, <strong>of</strong> course, was adamant about maintaining <strong>the</strong> communal<br />
nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lodge ambience. Even when accommodations improved,<br />
he famously banned TVs, telephones and lightbulbs over 40 watts<br />
in guest rooms, lest skiers be tempted to remain separate from <strong>the</strong><br />
effervescent action in <strong>the</strong> common areas. A relaxed, family-style<br />
approach to dining is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> key components, though it was not<br />
something Gmoser grew up with back in socially rigid Austria. In<br />
that nation’s alpine huts it was customary for small groups to keep to<br />
<strong>the</strong>mselves; fraternizing between social classes simply wasn’t done.<br />
In Canada, however, <strong>the</strong> woman who would change that was<br />
named Elizabeth von Rummel. The daughter <strong>of</strong> a German baron, she<br />
was familiar with aristocratic ways, though she learned a hard lesson<br />
about social mobility when <strong>the</strong> Great War wiped out <strong>the</strong> family<br />
fortune. By <strong>the</strong>n she was working in <strong>the</strong> Rockies as <strong>the</strong> quintessential<br />
backcountry lodge hostess. Upon <strong>the</strong>ir chance meeting, she hired<br />
Hans Gmoser as a guide and hut-tender. Lizzie, as everyone knew<br />
her, would become his mentor, and it was she who inspired <strong>the</strong> legacy<br />
<strong>of</strong> cheerful democracy by decreeing that, in her lodge, everyone from<br />
<strong>the</strong> richest international visitor to <strong>the</strong> humblest local hiker would<br />
dine toge<strong>the</strong>r as equals. That tradition proudly endures—as gemütlich<br />
now as it was a half-century ago.<br />
WINTER <strong>2011</strong>/<strong>12</strong>