wt_2004_03: test: audemars piguet jules audemars 3120 classic

TEST: AUDEMARS PIGUET JULES AUDEMARS 3120 CLASSIC
The balance oscillates
at a pace of 21,600
beats per hour.
capacity, so the debut of the 3120 may help to
ease matters somewhat. The actual production
capacity for the new caliber is a secret Audemars
Piguet prefers not to divulge.
We wanted to get an impression of how the
new caliber works in practice, so we selected a
wristwatch from the Jules Audemars collection
to serve as an example. This watch is named
after Jules-Louis Audemars (1851-1918), who
was a pioneer in the construction of numerous
excellent complications. Four models are currently
available with the new Caliber 3120:
two versions with "globe" decor and/or
"globe" design on their dials, plus two classical
three-handed watches with "côtes de
Highly-precise
finishing helps to
create a 60-hour
power reserve.
Genéve" decorations. All four have a windowtype
date display. The "Classic" model in white
gold was the one that we chose to serve as our
test candidate. This elegant men's model
makes a very fetching first impression. Its proportions
and appearance harmonize quite
well. The watch is neither too large nor too
small. The white dial with applied Roman numerals
radiates an aura of noble serenity. The
legibility of the time and date is good by day,
although the date window is of traditional
size. "Traditional" is the best adjective to use in
this context because various "big date" displays
have become so commonplace nowadays
and we've become so accustomed to
their dimensions that a date window of conventional
size tends to look somewhat small.
Flipping the Jules Audemars over to peruse
its back, which is held in place by five screws, a
connoisseur can peer through a pane of sapphire
crystal and admire the beautifully decorated
rotor and the distinctive double bridges
for the barrel. The case is made of white gold,
with satin finishing on the sides. Sharp edges
are nowhere to be found. The entire impression
is one of velvety softness. The sonorous
sound of the winding mechanism is delightful.
It can be heard when the rotor turns or when
the crown is manually twisted. The Caliber
3120 produces a pleasant rasping sound, not a
tortured rattling of gears.
As far as water-resistance goes, this watch
could hardly be described as a deep diver. It's
water-resistant to only 20 meters, so you'd be
Setting the date
is a pleasure with
this impeccable
caliber.
TEST RESULTS
Wristband and claps (max. 10 points): 8
Appealing crocodile-skin strap with pronged
buckle. The AP logo is engraved into the metal.
Operation (5): 5
Setting the hands and date is conveniently
accomplished via the crown.
Case (10): 9
Beautiful, impeccably crafted, white gold case.
Pane of sapphire crystal in back, which is held
in place by five screws.
Design (15): 12
Appealing, contemporary design. Very
beautiful, elaborately designed dial, but
the minute hand is too short.
Legibility (5): 4
Good legibility of the time under normal conditions.
The watch's face remains dark at night.
Wearing comfort (10): 10
Very good wearing comfort, pleasant size.
Movement (20): 18
AP Caliber 3120 with automatic winding and
date window - a valuable and beautiful base
caliber.
Rate results (10): 7
Ran too fast in some positions: +5 seconds fast
per day on the timing machine, +3 seconds fast
per day on the wrist.
Overall value (15): 13
A reasonably sized man's wristwatch with an
unostentatious appearance on the outside and
a high-quality mechanism on the inside. The
fine quality, however, has its price.
TOTAL: 86 points
better advised to keep it and water more or
less apart. A few extra meters of water-resistance
wouldn't have hurt. Another minor cavil
is that the minute hand is a wee bit too short.
An unwritten law in the world of classical
watchmaking specifies that its tip ought to be
tangent to the minute-circle.
Is this watch an example of the
Golden Section In our opinion, Audemars
Piguet has created a superlative
new item with its Caliber
3120. The people in Switzerland's
Jura region haven't lost
sight of tradition. They've succeeded
in combining the best
from the past with the best of the
present. Old and new unite beautifully
here. The existing line has
been divided so that the relationship
between the longer segment and the total
stretch is equal to the relationship between the
shorter segment and the longer segment. Any
further questions
70 WatchTime June 2004