On the Way to Arcadia (PDF) - Rolf Gross
On the Way to Arcadia (PDF) - Rolf Gross
On the Way to Arcadia (PDF) - Rolf Gross
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Bassai, View East: Mt. Lykaios from Mt. Kotilon<br />
Behind <strong>the</strong> temple of Apollo rises, moderately high, Mount Kotilon, which can be climbed in<br />
fifteen minutes. From its <strong>to</strong>p one has a far reaching view of <strong>the</strong> mountains of <strong>Arcadia</strong>. In <strong>the</strong><br />
East <strong>the</strong> view is bounded by Mount Lykaios, where Zeus had an altar as Zeus Lykaios, "Zeus of<br />
<strong>the</strong> Wolves" - of which, according <strong>to</strong> Pausanias, <strong>the</strong>re were many in <strong>the</strong> area. To <strong>the</strong> West one<br />
overlooks <strong>the</strong> mountains of <strong>the</strong> Mynthias and senses <strong>the</strong> plain where Phygalia is located, and<br />
on a clear evening, <strong>the</strong> Kyparissian Sea glistens in <strong>the</strong> setting sun. The South, across several<br />
mountain ranges, is controlled by <strong>the</strong> threatening block of Mount Ithome, which dominates <strong>the</strong><br />
almost one hundred kilometer distant plain of Messenia. At <strong>the</strong> horizon behind Ithome, one<br />
discovers on a clear day, <strong>the</strong> Messenian Sea: <strong>On</strong>e can see <strong>the</strong> "two seas" from <strong>the</strong> center of<br />
<strong>the</strong> only land in Greece that had no access <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Mediterranean.<br />
A close reading of Pausanias reveals <strong>the</strong> existence of ano<strong>the</strong>r, older sanctuary on Mt. Kotilon,<br />
dedicated <strong>to</strong> Aphrodite and Artemis. After a little search we found <strong>the</strong> site. There only<br />
remnants of <strong>the</strong> foundations of <strong>the</strong> small temple and perhaps <strong>the</strong> altar plate have survived -<br />
but it <strong>to</strong>o is directed <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> South.