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Fixed Anchors in Wilderness to be Addressed by ... - Access Fund

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John Heisel<br />

The National Park Service has concerns about<br />

<strong>in</strong>creased impact at Grandmother Mounta<strong>in</strong>, NC.<br />

address many issues at climb<strong>in</strong>g areas<br />

utilized <strong>by</strong> camps and schools <strong>in</strong> the Pisgah<br />

National Forest of Western North Carol<strong>in</strong>a.<br />

The group’s mission is <strong>to</strong> “Protect the future<br />

of climb<strong>in</strong>g areas <strong>in</strong> the Pisgah Ranger<br />

District <strong>by</strong> address<strong>in</strong>g issues fac<strong>in</strong>g commercial<br />

climb<strong>in</strong>g such as group impact, m<strong>in</strong>imiz<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the impact large groups have on climb<strong>in</strong>g<br />

areas, provid<strong>in</strong>g trail work, and promot<strong>in</strong>g<br />

safe climb<strong>in</strong>g practices.<br />

Representatives of camps, schools, outfitters,<br />

guides, and the USFS met <strong>in</strong> Oc<strong>to</strong><strong>be</strong>r<br />

and agreed the group would <strong>in</strong>clude a wide<br />

representation of clim<strong>be</strong>r <strong>in</strong>terests and discuss<br />

climb<strong>in</strong>g issues <strong>in</strong> the Pisgah Range<br />

District of the Pisgah National Forest.<br />

Grandfather Mounta<strong>in</strong> Corridor, NC<br />

Representatives from the Blue Ridge<br />

Parkway, Boone Clim<strong>be</strong>rs Coalition, Carol<strong>in</strong>a<br />

Clim<strong>be</strong>rs Coalition, and the <strong>Access</strong> <strong>Fund</strong> met<br />

on Novem<strong>be</strong>r 15 <strong>to</strong> discuss issues surround<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the “Grandfather Corridor.” This area<br />

<strong>in</strong>cludes Shiprock, the Grandmother<br />

Boulders, Ch<strong>in</strong>a Orchard/Blow<strong>in</strong>g Rock<br />

Boulders, and the Holloway Mounta<strong>in</strong><br />

climb<strong>in</strong>g areas.<br />

NPS natural resources personnel expressed<br />

concerns about the follow<strong>in</strong>g areas:<br />

•SHIPROCK - NPS is concerned about the<br />

area’s fragile ecosystem. Protect<strong>in</strong>g ecological<br />

values is crucial <strong>to</strong> keep<strong>in</strong>g this area open.<br />

The NPS supports the judicious use of fixed<br />

anchors <strong>be</strong>cause they will m<strong>in</strong>imize impact<br />

on <strong>to</strong>p of the cliff. A fixed anchor review<br />

committee may <strong>be</strong> created. The NPS has<br />

requested that until the fixed anchor <strong>to</strong>pic is<br />

further explored, clim<strong>be</strong>rs refra<strong>in</strong> from<br />

replac<strong>in</strong>g or plac<strong>in</strong>g any bolts.<br />

•GRANDMOTHER – A nationally known<br />

boulder<strong>in</strong>g area. Environmental Impact and<br />

preservation are the ma<strong>in</strong> NPS concerns here.<br />

The majority of the boulders <strong>in</strong> this area are<br />

located <strong>in</strong> a Spruce/Fir forest, which is<br />

unique <strong>to</strong> the southern Appalachians.<br />

6 / v e r t i c a l t i m e s<br />

•HOLLOWAY MTN – Popular with groups for<br />

<strong>to</strong>p rop<strong>in</strong>g. Currently the public and two<br />

permitted groups use this site. This site will<br />

most likely receive <strong>to</strong>p rope anchors. The<br />

trees and cliff <strong>to</strong>p environment show signs of<br />

heavy use.<br />

•BLOWING ROCK /CHINA ORCHARD - This<br />

is one of the most popular boulder<strong>in</strong>g areas<br />

close <strong>to</strong> Boone. Clos<strong>in</strong>g areas for res<strong>to</strong>ration<br />

was mentioned.<br />

Additional concerns <strong>in</strong>cluded trampl<strong>in</strong>g at<br />

stag<strong>in</strong>g areas, park<strong>in</strong>g, and <strong>in</strong>creased climb<strong>in</strong>g<br />

use <strong>in</strong> the future. NPS personnel also discouraged<br />

the creation of new access trails.<br />

The NC climb<strong>in</strong>g community is committed<br />

<strong>to</strong> work<strong>in</strong>g collaboratively with the NPS.<br />

Rather than develop<strong>in</strong>g a climb<strong>in</strong>g management<br />

plan for the area, the NPS will identify<br />

a num<strong>be</strong>r of management alternatives <strong>to</strong> <strong>be</strong><br />

addressed at a future public meet<strong>in</strong>g. For<br />

more <strong>in</strong>formation on the Grandfather<br />

Corridor, contact Biff Farrell<br />

(farrellw@am.appstate.edu) or Mike Trew<br />

(trew2@boone.net), Co-Chairs of the Boone<br />

Clim<strong>be</strong>rs Coalition.<br />

Boat Rock, Georgia<br />

A 7.7 acre parcel filled with boulders is for<br />

sale <strong>in</strong> Atlanta, GA. The Southeastern<br />

Clim<strong>be</strong>rs Coalition is <strong>in</strong> the process of buy<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the area with the help of several concerned<br />

local clim<strong>be</strong>rs, The <strong>Access</strong> <strong>Fund</strong> and the Trust<br />

for Public Land. The price is $100,000 and is<br />

located adjacent <strong>to</strong> a 220-acre parcel that is<br />

currently slated for development. This area<br />

will <strong>be</strong> turned <strong>in</strong><strong>to</strong> a subdivision if not purchased<br />

soon. Check the SEC website for<br />

more <strong>in</strong>formation at www.seclim<strong>be</strong>rs.org.<br />

Boulder<strong>in</strong>g at Boat Rock <strong>in</strong> Atlanta, Georgia is<br />

threatened <strong>by</strong> development.<br />

Mike Williams

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