Number in series 8; Year of publication 1914 - Fell and Rock ...

AGAIN : THE ALPS. 37
part I have come to the conclusion that to wait for big
peaks in bad weather is not good business. Better be
content with what is possible. After all, the Ulrichshorns
are pleasant and any peak is better than none.
The Monte Rosa Hotel sheltered us for the night and
also for the whole of the next day, during which it rained
heavily. Two of our members, Oppenheimer and Smith,
were at Zermatt and left for the Fluhalp in the rain, but
they did not hope for much, as the Rimpfischhorn from
the Adler pass after snow is not an easy proposition.
The Wednesday saw my party at the Riffelberg and
acting on my usual principles the journey was made in
the train. Early on Thursday morning we set out for
the Cima de Jazzi and the New Weissthor Pass. It was
fine until we came to the foot of our hill and then a blizzard
broke on us which would have sent us back from anything
difficult. However, we reached the top, but did not get
a view, and found ourselves a little later at the top of the
Weissthor in fairer weather. The descent to Macugnaga
was delightful, steep rocks with plenty of holds under a
thin snow covering, a view of the Monte Rosa precipice
with a few clouds moving across the face to add to the
effect, and the sight of our destination below us in the
valley, combined to make the rest of the day one of pure
pleasure.
Friday saw us tramping over the Monte Moro pass back
to Saas Grund, stopping for milk at the chalets on the way.
up and other drinks at Mattmark on the way down.
From Saas we made our way to the Almagell chalet,
where we stayed the night.
Ignace had traversed the Portiengrat in the blizzard on
the same day that his brother and I did the Egginer ar@te
and I had decided to attempt the traverse. It is a
delightful climb, though, as the upper part is rock where
it is often necessary to move one at a time, particularly
in a year such as 1912 was, it is a long one. The rocks are