Life of the party - London Fashion Week Daily
Life of the party - London Fashion Week Daily
Life of the party - London Fashion Week Daily
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2 News <strong>London</strong> fashion week <strong>the</strong> daily Sunday 20 February 2011<br />
LFW The <strong>Daily</strong> Credits<br />
Editor<br />
Cat Callender<br />
Deputy Editor & Chief Sub Editor<br />
Marion Jones<br />
Art Director & Designer<br />
Bianca Wendt<br />
Managing Editor<br />
JANE MONEY<br />
Deputy Chief Sub Editor<br />
Fiona Russell<br />
Sub Editors<br />
Michelle Margherita,<br />
kirsty hislop, robin wilks<br />
Designers<br />
ca<strong>the</strong>rine nippe, emma williams,<br />
thomas elliotT<br />
Reporters<br />
David Hayes, Julia Robson,<br />
Heath Brown, marion hume,<br />
susanna lau<br />
Beauty Correspondents<br />
annabel meggeson, Jess Hogan<br />
Guest Contributors<br />
Linda Grant, emma l<strong>of</strong>strom,<br />
philippa williams<br />
Staff Photographers<br />
Anna Bauer, Marcus Dawes,<br />
Shaniqwa Jarvis<br />
Distribution Manager<br />
Fran Weber-Newth<br />
Production Manager<br />
CAROLYN MOTT<br />
Blog Reporter<br />
EMILY FLEURIOT<br />
Blog Commissioning Editor<br />
yasmin coke<br />
Editorial Assistants<br />
alison potter, brooke ru<strong>the</strong>rford<br />
Runners<br />
amy maloney, giverney edwards<br />
Website Designer<br />
Wolfram Wiedner<br />
BFC Marketing Manager<br />
Clara Mercer<br />
Printed by<br />
The Guardian Print Centre<br />
Published by<br />
JENNY DYSON & CAT CALLENDER<br />
AT JEnny & The Cat Ltd<br />
Thanks to<br />
The British <strong>Fashion</strong> Council<br />
Somerset House<br />
H&M for <strong>the</strong> stYLISH support<br />
M&S for <strong>the</strong> fashionABLE food<br />
Mercedes-Benz for <strong>the</strong> wit-woo wheels<br />
live catwalk illustration At daks<br />
By Julie Verhoeven<br />
The daily shop<br />
It may be A/W on <strong>the</strong> catwalks,<br />
but it’s just turned S/S in store.<br />
Here’s our pick <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pack.<br />
Compiled by Victoria Bain,<br />
Junior Style Editor, The <strong>Daily</strong> Telegraph<br />
sunglasses, £12<br />
Asos (asos.com)<br />
t-shirt, £55<br />
Ann-S<strong>of</strong>ie Back for Topshop<br />
(topshop.com)<br />
“clipper” holdall, £189<br />
Mulberry (mulberry.com)<br />
bracelet, £12<br />
Red Herring at Debenhams<br />
(debenhams.com)<br />
For advertising enquiries,<br />
email cat@lfwdaily.com<br />
Rock<br />
star<br />
Todd Lynn has one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most respected<br />
fashion signatures in <strong>London</strong>. The tailoring<br />
so sharp it could slice through ice; <strong>the</strong> androgyny<br />
that invites a swagger; <strong>the</strong> sensibility that is<br />
pure rock’n’roll. He also now has two seasons<br />
<strong>of</strong> financial support and mentoring, courtesy <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> BFC’s <strong>Fashion</strong> Forward award.<br />
“The money’s always useful, but <strong>the</strong>re is also<br />
mentoring that will really help,” says Lynn <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Coutts & Co-sponsored package supported by <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>London</strong> Development Agency. “It’s such a creative,<br />
amazing journey to do this, but in reality if you don’t<br />
have a business sense it won’t get you so far.”<br />
It is this issue that <strong>Fashion</strong> Forward seeks<br />
to address, and Canadian Lynn knows well how<br />
such success confounded many <strong>of</strong> <strong>London</strong>’s<br />
designers for years. Coutts has a long tradition<br />
<strong>of</strong> supporting creative entrepreneurs, and 2011<br />
is its second year sponsoring <strong>Fashion</strong> Forward.<br />
Holding out a hand to Lynn is perfectly timed.<br />
Here is a label with a clear developing vision,<br />
exquisite execution and stealth wearability.<br />
“Women who like fashion don’t feel <strong>the</strong> need<br />
to conform,” says Lynn. “These are people I know<br />
and work with. My clo<strong>the</strong>s are fierce, but protective,<br />
too.” Cue jackets <strong>of</strong> butter-s<strong>of</strong>t lea<strong>the</strong>r armour,<br />
zipped dresses that reveal <strong>the</strong> silhouette but not<br />
<strong>the</strong> skin, wool trousers that declare any wearer<br />
tall and slim, cutting-edge clo<strong>the</strong>s designed<br />
“to look good on all people, not just models”.<br />
And tomorrow, it’s Lynn’s A/W 11 show. It’s all in<br />
<strong>the</strong> detail. “All <strong>the</strong> elements are <strong>the</strong>re,” he says. “It’s<br />
what I’m adding: <strong>the</strong> Enlightenment, a bit<br />
<strong>of</strong> colour. And it’s winter, it’s lea<strong>the</strong>r and fur – fur<br />
that’s been farmed properly. I really care about that.”<br />
And, <strong>of</strong> course, <strong>the</strong>re’s rock’n’roll. “I can sit<br />
on my own in <strong>the</strong> studio, listening to music, and<br />
I can escape,” says Lynn. “I can see things.”<br />
Todd Lynn is showing tomorrow at 3pm in WC2<br />
BESPOKE FEATURE<br />
<strong>Fashion</strong> means business<br />
Report by Julia Robson<br />
British fashion is having a “eureka”<br />
moment, waking up to ways to<br />
harness <strong>the</strong> endless talent and<br />
creativity it’s famous for. What’s to<br />
stop venture capitalists (remember<br />
<strong>the</strong>m) pitching up in <strong>London</strong> and<br />
eyeing up a young fashion brand<br />
While creativity is paramount,<br />
emerging designers are realising <strong>the</strong><br />
importance <strong>of</strong> building a business.<br />
“People <strong>of</strong>ten say that fashion is one<br />
<strong>of</strong> our most important creative<br />
industries,” said BFC ambassador<br />
Samantha Cameron (below with<br />
BFC Chairman Harold Tillman),<br />
Four seasons in one day<br />
Report by Heath Brown<br />
Global warming has hit <strong>the</strong> catwalks<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>London</strong>, as Spring/Summer<br />
staples creep into collections for<br />
A/W 11. S<strong>of</strong>t billowing silks, bare<br />
shoulder lines, hot tribal looks<br />
and fresh nautical references – it<br />
looks like designers are predicting<br />
a milder spell.<br />
Sass & Bide ignored <strong>the</strong> snows<br />
<strong>of</strong> late and transported us to<br />
sunnier climes. Ikat prints from<br />
Africa, Balinese references and hot<br />
Mediterranean colours are more<br />
than enough to keep us warm.<br />
Daks’ new collection went a little<br />
flying <strong>the</strong> flag in Mulberry. “They’re<br />
wrong – it’s one <strong>of</strong> our most<br />
important industries, full stop.”<br />
(True, last year, British fashion<br />
contributed £21 billion to UK PLC.)<br />
Educating designers in business<br />
is <strong>the</strong> point <strong>of</strong> initiatives such as <strong>the</strong><br />
BFC/Vogue <strong>Fashion</strong> Fund. Tillman<br />
points out that <strong>the</strong> fund’s current<br />
recipient, Christopher Kane, won on<br />
his business plan as well as his<br />
designs. “If we want more people to<br />
invest in fashion, we have to instil a<br />
sound business sense in our designers.”<br />
Photography by Marcus Dawes<br />
nautical-but-nice with precise navyand-white<br />
outfits that were more<br />
Cowes <strong>Week</strong> than Bonfire Night,<br />
and Caroline Charles decided a day<br />
at <strong>the</strong> races would be far more<br />
inspiring than a cosy Christmas.<br />
Daisy-print red chiffon at Betty<br />
Jackson, halternecks and hot pants<br />
at Aminaka Wilmont, and holidaywhite<br />
palazzo pants with silky prints<br />
at Maria Grachvogel all emphasised<br />
<strong>the</strong> fact that designers will not be<br />
dictated to by <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r. It’s a case<br />
<strong>of</strong> designing a wardrobe for all<br />
seasons, and creating investment<br />
buys for any time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year.<br />
dress, £65<br />
Monsoon Fusion (0844 811 0068)<br />
shorts, £115<br />
Jaeger <strong>London</strong> (0845 051 0063)<br />
fan, £2.50<br />
V&A (vandashop.com)<br />
maxi skirt, £95<br />
Whistles (whistles.co.uk)<br />
“roberta” wedges, £218<br />
Anthropologie (anthropologie.co.uk)