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Life of the party - London Fashion Week Daily

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2 News <strong>London</strong> fashion week <strong>the</strong> daily Sunday 20 February 2011<br />

LFW The <strong>Daily</strong> Credits<br />

Editor<br />

Cat Callender<br />

Deputy Editor & Chief Sub Editor<br />

Marion Jones<br />

Art Director & Designer<br />

Bianca Wendt<br />

Managing Editor<br />

JANE MONEY<br />

Deputy Chief Sub Editor<br />

Fiona Russell<br />

Sub Editors<br />

Michelle Margherita,<br />

kirsty hislop, robin wilks<br />

Designers<br />

ca<strong>the</strong>rine nippe, emma williams,<br />

thomas elliotT<br />

Reporters<br />

David Hayes, Julia Robson,<br />

Heath Brown, marion hume,<br />

susanna lau<br />

Beauty Correspondents<br />

annabel meggeson, Jess Hogan<br />

Guest Contributors<br />

Linda Grant, emma l<strong>of</strong>strom,<br />

philippa williams<br />

Staff Photographers<br />

Anna Bauer, Marcus Dawes,<br />

Shaniqwa Jarvis<br />

Distribution Manager<br />

Fran Weber-Newth<br />

Production Manager<br />

CAROLYN MOTT<br />

Blog Reporter<br />

EMILY FLEURIOT<br />

Blog Commissioning Editor<br />

yasmin coke<br />

Editorial Assistants<br />

alison potter, brooke ru<strong>the</strong>rford<br />

Runners<br />

amy maloney, giverney edwards<br />

Website Designer<br />

Wolfram Wiedner<br />

BFC Marketing Manager<br />

Clara Mercer<br />

Printed by<br />

The Guardian Print Centre<br />

Published by<br />

JENNY DYSON & CAT CALLENDER<br />

AT JEnny & The Cat Ltd<br />

Thanks to<br />

The British <strong>Fashion</strong> Council<br />

Somerset House<br />

H&M for <strong>the</strong> stYLISH support<br />

M&S for <strong>the</strong> fashionABLE food<br />

Mercedes-Benz for <strong>the</strong> wit-woo wheels<br />

live catwalk illustration At daks<br />

By Julie Verhoeven<br />

The daily shop<br />

It may be A/W on <strong>the</strong> catwalks,<br />

but it’s just turned S/S in store.<br />

Here’s our pick <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pack.<br />

Compiled by Victoria Bain,<br />

Junior Style Editor, The <strong>Daily</strong> Telegraph<br />

sunglasses, £12<br />

Asos (asos.com)<br />

t-shirt, £55<br />

Ann-S<strong>of</strong>ie Back for Topshop<br />

(topshop.com)<br />

“clipper” holdall, £189<br />

Mulberry (mulberry.com)<br />

bracelet, £12<br />

Red Herring at Debenhams<br />

(debenhams.com)<br />

For advertising enquiries,<br />

email cat@lfwdaily.com<br />

Rock<br />

star<br />

Todd Lynn has one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most respected<br />

fashion signatures in <strong>London</strong>. The tailoring<br />

so sharp it could slice through ice; <strong>the</strong> androgyny<br />

that invites a swagger; <strong>the</strong> sensibility that is<br />

pure rock’n’roll. He also now has two seasons<br />

<strong>of</strong> financial support and mentoring, courtesy <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> BFC’s <strong>Fashion</strong> Forward award.<br />

“The money’s always useful, but <strong>the</strong>re is also<br />

mentoring that will really help,” says Lynn <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Coutts & Co-sponsored package supported by <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>London</strong> Development Agency. “It’s such a creative,<br />

amazing journey to do this, but in reality if you don’t<br />

have a business sense it won’t get you so far.”<br />

It is this issue that <strong>Fashion</strong> Forward seeks<br />

to address, and Canadian Lynn knows well how<br />

such success confounded many <strong>of</strong> <strong>London</strong>’s<br />

designers for years. Coutts has a long tradition<br />

<strong>of</strong> supporting creative entrepreneurs, and 2011<br />

is its second year sponsoring <strong>Fashion</strong> Forward.<br />

Holding out a hand to Lynn is perfectly timed.<br />

Here is a label with a clear developing vision,<br />

exquisite execution and stealth wearability.<br />

“Women who like fashion don’t feel <strong>the</strong> need<br />

to conform,” says Lynn. “These are people I know<br />

and work with. My clo<strong>the</strong>s are fierce, but protective,<br />

too.” Cue jackets <strong>of</strong> butter-s<strong>of</strong>t lea<strong>the</strong>r armour,<br />

zipped dresses that reveal <strong>the</strong> silhouette but not<br />

<strong>the</strong> skin, wool trousers that declare any wearer<br />

tall and slim, cutting-edge clo<strong>the</strong>s designed<br />

“to look good on all people, not just models”.<br />

And tomorrow, it’s Lynn’s A/W 11 show. It’s all in<br />

<strong>the</strong> detail. “All <strong>the</strong> elements are <strong>the</strong>re,” he says. “It’s<br />

what I’m adding: <strong>the</strong> Enlightenment, a bit<br />

<strong>of</strong> colour. And it’s winter, it’s lea<strong>the</strong>r and fur – fur<br />

that’s been farmed properly. I really care about that.”<br />

And, <strong>of</strong> course, <strong>the</strong>re’s rock’n’roll. “I can sit<br />

on my own in <strong>the</strong> studio, listening to music, and<br />

I can escape,” says Lynn. “I can see things.”<br />

Todd Lynn is showing tomorrow at 3pm in WC2<br />

BESPOKE FEATURE<br />

<strong>Fashion</strong> means business<br />

Report by Julia Robson<br />

British fashion is having a “eureka”<br />

moment, waking up to ways to<br />

harness <strong>the</strong> endless talent and<br />

creativity it’s famous for. What’s to<br />

stop venture capitalists (remember<br />

<strong>the</strong>m) pitching up in <strong>London</strong> and<br />

eyeing up a young fashion brand<br />

While creativity is paramount,<br />

emerging designers are realising <strong>the</strong><br />

importance <strong>of</strong> building a business.<br />

“People <strong>of</strong>ten say that fashion is one<br />

<strong>of</strong> our most important creative<br />

industries,” said BFC ambassador<br />

Samantha Cameron (below with<br />

BFC Chairman Harold Tillman),<br />

Four seasons in one day<br />

Report by Heath Brown<br />

Global warming has hit <strong>the</strong> catwalks<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>London</strong>, as Spring/Summer<br />

staples creep into collections for<br />

A/W 11. S<strong>of</strong>t billowing silks, bare<br />

shoulder lines, hot tribal looks<br />

and fresh nautical references – it<br />

looks like designers are predicting<br />

a milder spell.<br />

Sass & Bide ignored <strong>the</strong> snows<br />

<strong>of</strong> late and transported us to<br />

sunnier climes. Ikat prints from<br />

Africa, Balinese references and hot<br />

Mediterranean colours are more<br />

than enough to keep us warm.<br />

Daks’ new collection went a little<br />

flying <strong>the</strong> flag in Mulberry. “They’re<br />

wrong – it’s one <strong>of</strong> our most<br />

important industries, full stop.”<br />

(True, last year, British fashion<br />

contributed £21 billion to UK PLC.)<br />

Educating designers in business<br />

is <strong>the</strong> point <strong>of</strong> initiatives such as <strong>the</strong><br />

BFC/Vogue <strong>Fashion</strong> Fund. Tillman<br />

points out that <strong>the</strong> fund’s current<br />

recipient, Christopher Kane, won on<br />

his business plan as well as his<br />

designs. “If we want more people to<br />

invest in fashion, we have to instil a<br />

sound business sense in our designers.”<br />

Photography by Marcus Dawes<br />

nautical-but-nice with precise navyand-white<br />

outfits that were more<br />

Cowes <strong>Week</strong> than Bonfire Night,<br />

and Caroline Charles decided a day<br />

at <strong>the</strong> races would be far more<br />

inspiring than a cosy Christmas.<br />

Daisy-print red chiffon at Betty<br />

Jackson, halternecks and hot pants<br />

at Aminaka Wilmont, and holidaywhite<br />

palazzo pants with silky prints<br />

at Maria Grachvogel all emphasised<br />

<strong>the</strong> fact that designers will not be<br />

dictated to by <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r. It’s a case<br />

<strong>of</strong> designing a wardrobe for all<br />

seasons, and creating investment<br />

buys for any time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year.<br />

dress, £65<br />

Monsoon Fusion (0844 811 0068)<br />

shorts, £115<br />

Jaeger <strong>London</strong> (0845 051 0063)<br />

fan, £2.50<br />

V&A (vandashop.com)<br />

maxi skirt, £95<br />

Whistles (whistles.co.uk)<br />

“roberta” wedges, £218<br />

Anthropologie (anthropologie.co.uk)

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