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JACOB & CO. once and Jay-Z set. The curly, black-haired Arabo wants to finish a thought about his moving to this address from the 47th Street diamond district, and that hasn’t been easy due to several interruptions, a phone call from a Russian billionaire haggling over a six-figure, diamond-encrusted piece, and another one from a communications magnate who’s friends with Vladimir Putin. His life hasn’t always been such a joyride. After leaving Russia as a 14-yearold, working tirelessly and anonymously for New York diamond district jewelers, and setting up a small Manhattan shop where R & B singer Faith Evans “discovered” him on a shopping binge, he’s taken a few hits. Cartier accused him of trademark infringement. Yet arguably more embarrassing, a recent New York Times article said “his stock in trade was cartoonish,” and that his tastes were “derivative.” Arabo, the founder of Jacob & Co., dismisses such criticism with a cavalier “I don’t care what people say,” insisting such timepieces as a $190,000, 20-ct. rose gold tourbillon, and the Five Time Zone H24 (favored by Ozzy Osbourne and Sir Elton) are unique and “wholly original” (at last year’s Basel fair, a limited edition, $14,800 automatic model was introduced after Arabo added a calendar date indicator to the Five Time Zone for men in “three piece suits”). Yet even if he’s suddenly popular among “a middle American audience that never thought they’d wear diamond watches,” this feisty, self-made sensation, who has the temerity to create a 57-mm watch depicting a map of the world, is still not content. An air of restlessness, even disquiet hangs over him, for he’s determined to prove he’s far more innovative than the Swiss watch making fraternity. “I want to be known for my expertise, putting complicated functions together, and creating unique designs,” says Arabo, 40, seated at a small conference table. “I’m accepted The $300,000 Rainbow Tourbillon. now, well respected, but I want to be known as one of the best.” Mere 47-mm, 50 ct extravaganzas will never secure that Promised Land stature. To affirm his bonafides, he must master complications – the true art of haute horlorgerie – and certainly wise enough to understand these rules of engagement, Arabo has spent the last oneand-a-half years developing his latest wonder, the $240,000 Quinteen. He feels this “one of a kind” timepiece with a vertically-placed tourbillon on the side of the case, and a 31-day power reserve, will not only add to his soaring King of Bling reputation among athletes, movie stars and the rap world. He’s confident it will lead to long-desired acknowledgement from true watch connoisseurs. “In ten years I want to be one of the most respected watchmakers in history, getting the same type of recognition as Patek Philippe, Breguet, and Vacheron Constantin,” states Arabo, thumbing through a stack of design drawings highlighting the seven rotating barrels that measure the Quinton’s time reserve. Looking like an elated Trump boardroom member in his chalk-striped Armani suit, gray Brioni tie, and silver belt buckle with a “Jacob & Co.” logo, he continues, “I’m a revolutionary. I want to create things people have never imagined. All new watches, nothing that’s been seen before. I want the world to know me for my bold designs and mechanics.” But the future must wait. Now that his curly, black-haired wife Angela is hoping to speak to him, Arabo postpones talking about the $1 million, 72-ct “Starbury” watch designed for New York basketball star Stephon Marbury, his still unreleased 25 time zone extravaganza, and plans to distill a new upscale vodka. He instead credits her shaping the media/PR blitz that’s made him larger-than-life in Elle, Details, W, the New York Times, and Newsweek’s international edition. “My family members never let me down,” says Arabo, referring to Angela, and six other relatives who keep a vigilant eye on all of the out-sized rocks in his shop that’s situated close to Harry Winston, Tiffany, and Buccellati. “Trust is critical. I rely on these people.” After Jacob & Co’s energetic duo exchanges a few hurried whispers, Arabo urges her to express her own American Dream. She smiles, and quietly says, “To have stores worldwide, London, Tokyo, Los Angeles. To be one of the most successful watch and jewelry companies in the world, maybe to live in Monaco, have a boat, and be happy.” Those stores are already being talked about informally among company execs, and Jacob is further expanding his universe by offering a jeweled line of serial numbered, $6,000-plus sneakers in hand-made leathers, crocs, and ostrich skins. To honor his 75-year-old father Nison, a Tashkent liquor manufacturer who always reminded him, “You must be number one (in your business), or don’t do it at all,” Will venturing into highly-complicated mechanicals win him acceptance among pedigreed, often tradition-bound connoisseurs Or will his work simply be dismissed as too faddish 70 WatchTime April 2006
JACOB & CO. Jacob is further expanding his universe by offering a jeweled line of serial numbered, $6,000- plus sneakers in hand-made leathers, crocs, and ostrich skins. Arabo will launch a premium vodka this spring that will be featured in a bottle that resembles uncut diamonds. “We’re calling it BOCAJ (Arabo spelled backwards), and it’s going to be top of the line, from a recipe my dad used in Russia,” says this frenetic, yet very savvy entrepreneur who refused to follow his father into the family liquor business, and instead attended jewelry design school in Brooklyn as a teenager. “Bringing back his business while he’s still alive is amazing, just a dream come true. He expected his only son (Arabo has 4 sisters) to be a success, and my opening this (San Jose, California) distillery is adding to his happiness. I’m just doing this because I enjoy it. I understand you can’t stretch yourself too thin, or get too greedy.” Dashing off to be with P. Diddy at his Dubai birthday party, or laying splashy plans for this fire and ice vodka isn’t just free-flowing, empire-building entertainment in the style of the great czars. Arabo is a trendsetter with an irrepressible energy and verve, who’s been an avatar for the wildly indulgent (he owns three Ferraris and a Maybach “to drive to work”). Among the MTV, hip hop crowd he has been a platinum-n-D flawless “revolutionary,” spiriting cultural change and boldly-colored hijink. “Over the top, what’s that mean” he laughs when told that Old World, Fifth Avenue jewelers have mocked his settling on 57th Street. “My stuff is a little ridiculous, but I’m meeting demand. Other companies of course don’t want me around. They’re 100 years old, while I’m in 300 doors right now. The finest stores in Moscow, Paris, Japan. I just did a limited edition Rainbow tourbillon with a 120-hour power reserve, all baguetted for $450,000 to a Russian businessman. What are those 100 year old companies doing I’m the one selling something new and different.” Arabo’s diamond mines for the wrist aren’t subtle, and neither is this jab at his neighbors. To him, they’re woefully out of touch. He is the moment. Confidently insisting that the five complicated mechanicals he’s developed since early last year attest to his long-term longevity (these timepieces include a tourbillon and a 25 time zone GMT), Arabo says, “Everyone laughed at me when I brought platinum and white gold into the MTV world. I also made the most brilliant white diamond jewelry, and put it on the most famous faces. Everyone thought I’d go broke, that my watches would go in and out, everything was a huge success. We’ll stay, our name will live for a long time because our styles are new, not old, tired stuff that many companies do. People are investing hundreds of thousands of dollars in my work.” That stability has been further solidified by his recently acquiring a 75% share in a Geneva watch factory. He’s also strengthened his position in the diamond market by partnering with The World GMT tells the time in 32 cities. The Classic Time Zone Tourbillion The Five Time Zone Automatic ($14,800). 72 WatchTime April 2006
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Jacob The

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