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“Sock-It” to<br />

the Fish!<br />

BY JUSTIN HOFFMAN<br />

Weather conditions<br />

are a fact of life<br />

for those that<br />

choose to wet a<br />

line. From pounding<br />

rain to saunalike<br />

heat – and everything in<br />

between – we stoically stare down<br />

Mother Nature when there are fish<br />

waiting to be caught. But give us wind<br />

and we curse its existence—all while<br />

blowing mercilessly amongst the waves<br />

with each gust it rains down on us.<br />

But there is hope. The light at the end<br />

of the wind tunnel is an essential and<br />

functional angling tool called the drift<br />

sock—a wind and wave tamer that too<br />

few anglers use, but a “day saver” item<br />

that should be stock on each and every<br />

boat that plies the water.<br />

What To Buy?<br />

When purchasing a drift sock, the rule of<br />

thumb is to buy one to match the length<br />

of boat you run. This will give you a ballpark<br />

size to begin your search with,<br />

which can then be fine-tuned to the perfect<br />

fit dependent on what severity of<br />

wind conditions you routinely face.<br />

Many drifting applications call for the<br />

use of two socks, so choose one sock<br />

that matches your boat specifications<br />

and another the next size up. This will<br />

cover a variety of bases while allowing<br />

you to experiment and see which methods<br />

work best.<br />

Tricks of the Trade<br />

Drifting Flats—Working expansive flats<br />

when the wind is howling can make for a<br />

tough day of fishing, especially if pitching<br />

jigs to walleye or tossing spoons to northern<br />

pike. In order to slow down your<br />

approach, while keeping a controlled drift,<br />

you will want to utilize two drift socks on<br />

the windward side of the boat. Attach a<br />

larger sock to a cleat just below the bow<br />

and a smaller sock at the rear on either<br />

the port or starboard side—depending on<br />

which direction the wind is blowing.<br />

Deploying the drift socks in this configuration<br />

will alleviate any issues with<br />

TECHNOLOGY LOCATION TECHNIQUE SCIENCE<br />

uneven boat drifting, and with the outboard<br />

motor also creating drag, will allow<br />

you to slowly pick apart a flat and fish it<br />

effectively and thoroughly. Any minor<br />

positioning changes can be achieved with<br />

the bow mount motor, or with the transom<br />

electric, kicker or big engine.<br />

DRIFT SOCK CHART<br />

Boat Length 14' 16'-18' 20'+<br />

Wind Conditions<br />

Light/Breezy 18" – 24" 25" – 30" 36" – 42"<br />

Moderate 25" – 30" 36" – 42" 48" – 50"<br />

Heavy/Strong 36" – 42" 48" – 50" 54" – 60"<br />

Windblown Shorelines—Nothing rings<br />

the dinner bell more loudly to a predatory<br />

fish than a windblown shoreline does.<br />

This is exceptionally true with walleye,<br />

smallmouth bass, and muskie. Trying to<br />

fan cast effectively, without being pushed<br />

up on shore, can often be an exercise in<br />

frustration – especially when the winds<br />

are gusting strongly. To combat this problem,<br />

a drift sock should be attached to<br />

the rear corner of the windblown side.<br />

With this configuration, your boat will<br />

remain parallel to the shoreline, and the<br />

bow mount trolling motor will be used to<br />

inch your way along the drift and periodically<br />

nose the bow out and away from<br />

the shore.<br />

Backtrolling Precision—Fishing breaklines<br />

or working humps requires controlled<br />

rigging. This is best achieved by<br />

INSIDER TIPS<br />

GEAR<br />

backtrolling your offering directly and<br />

slowly in front of the fish. When winds<br />

are high and waves rough, however, the<br />

ability to keep the bow from swinging<br />

and overcompensating motor movements<br />

is often a reality. To combat this<br />

occurrence, tie a drift sock directly off<br />

the bow of the boat and backtroll with<br />

the wind. This will help you regain total<br />

control of your spinner rig or crank –<br />

and hopefully the walleye bite. If speed<br />

becomes an issue, choose a larger drift<br />

sock or shift your motor in and out of<br />

neutral when needed.<br />

Tying One On<br />

An integral part of the drift sock system<br />

is the tow rope and dump line. As the<br />

name suggests, the tow rope is attached<br />

to the main harness of the sock. Tying off<br />

to a cleat on the boat is then done with<br />

the loose end. By using a length of rope<br />

(two to eight-feet) variances can be made<br />

for certain applications, and the drift sock<br />

itself can always be kept out and away<br />

from the boat.<br />

Pulling a drift sock back into the boat<br />

when fully inflated and submerged can be<br />

a tough deal—and an exercise in brute<br />

strength. A dump line makes life easier.<br />

Attached to the tail end of the sock (and<br />

the boat cleat or tow rope), a tug on this<br />

retrieval line will swing the smallest end<br />

forward, collapsing the sock and allowing<br />

it to be pulled easily and effortlessly on<br />

board. A key rule to keep in mind is to<br />

ensure that your dump line is longer than<br />

the overall length of the tow rope and<br />

drift sock. ■<br />

Summer 2011 | HOOKED | 35

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