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Departures

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BLACKBOOK THE AGENDA<br />

hottest restaurant – a title it<br />

shares with the downstairs bistro<br />

at the Hotel Cort (hotelcort.com),<br />

which opened last year with<br />

interiors by Barcelona-based<br />

design doyen Lázaro Rosa-<br />

Violán. Another old-town palace<br />

conversion, the Posada Terra<br />

Santa (posadaterrasanta.com)<br />

– “tucked away since 1576”<br />

– only confirms the trend for<br />

chic accommodation in fabled<br />

buildings, another example<br />

being the Cuba Colonial<br />

(hotelhostalcuba.com), which<br />

brings back to life a century-old<br />

mariners’ lodging behind the<br />

seafront in the buzzing barrio<br />

of Santa Catalina. Beyond<br />

Palma, meanwhile, the countryhouse<br />

Castell Son Claret<br />

(castellsonclaret.com), owned by<br />

logistics tycoon Klaus-Michael<br />

Kühne, has taken just a year to<br />

become Mallorca’s most refined<br />

rural getaway. The converted<br />

country mansion is done up in a<br />

time-honoured local vernacular<br />

which Sa Cabana (hotelsacabana.<br />

com), also new last year, pushes a<br />

little further with its on-site spa,<br />

housed in a circular stone<br />

construction of impressive<br />

design. With all these high-end<br />

happenings, even the low-end<br />

sector has had to smarten up.<br />

Tongues are wagging locally<br />

about Meliá Hotels’ radical<br />

reconversion of the rock-bottom<br />

package-tour resort Magaluf<br />

into a sophisticated Miami<br />

Beach-style “city resort”. This<br />

season’s new ME Mallorca<br />

(melia.com), a ten-storey 1970s<br />

building cunningly made<br />

over for the 21st century, rubs<br />

shoulders with some pretty cool<br />

neighbours – notably the lounge<br />

club Nikki Beach, Ibiza offshoot<br />

Café del Mar and trendy<br />

twentysomething surf hotel<br />

Wave House. ♦<br />

HOME-GROWN CUISINE<br />

the island’s hottest tables<br />

A minor revolution is underway as a generation of foreign and off-island chefs gives way<br />

to a new wave of fired-up young Mallorcans, who are taking cooking back to the roots. The<br />

chefs of the moment are not only natives but fiercely loyal to island produce. Pioneering Santi<br />

Taura (restaurantsantitaura.com) is booked up for months in his home town of Lloseta, while his<br />

contemporaries Macarena de Castro at Jardín (restaurantejardin.com) and Tomeu Caldentey<br />

of Es Molí d´en Bou ( esmolidenbou.es) – Mallorcans both – have each racked up a Michelin<br />

star. Joan Marc Garcias (joanmarcrestaurant.com) has just opened a place on the square in<br />

Inca where he grew up, wowing diners with island-inspired dishes like roast chicken with<br />

esclatasang mushrooms and local botifarra sausage. But perhaps the brightest star is 31-yearold<br />

Andreu Genestra ( andreugenestra.com), who after stages at El Bulli and the Kuwaiti royal<br />

palace has returned to a farm-forward kitchen in rural Capdepera.<br />

MARKET FINDS<br />

Spain’s produce markets<br />

have always had bars<br />

where shoppers could<br />

perch on a bar-stool<br />

with a coffee, a beer or<br />

a snack – but latterly Mallorca’s<br />

mercados have taken the<br />

custom a step further. At<br />

Palma’s Mercat de l’Olivar<br />

(mercatolivar.com), charcuterie<br />

specialist Sebastià Rojas offers<br />

tapas of ham and Spanish<br />

sausages, while Toni and Tolo<br />

Torrens run an oyster stall and<br />

German chef Thomas Wilden<br />

dishes out sushi and smoked<br />

salmon. At the fashionable<br />

food market in Santa Catalina<br />

(mercatsantacatalina.com), Ca<br />

S’Ostra (casostra.es), run by<br />

Swiss-born Fabrizio Peroni, is a<br />

great place to put down your<br />

bags and refuel with a plate of<br />

shellfish and a glass of cava.<br />

PORT OF CALL Its clear waters, picturesque coastline and well-equipped harbours<br />

make the island an increasingly attractive place to drop anchor, and the Spanish<br />

government’s recent removal of the tax on chartered yachts is an added incentive.<br />

Philippe Starck’s €90m Port Adriano (left, portadriano.com) now goes head-to-head<br />

with nearby Puerto Portals (puertoportals.com), Mallorca’s classic high-end boat park.<br />

Meanwhile the Moll Vell (mollvell.com), a newly revamped stretch of historic harbour<br />

below Palma Cathedral, aims to bring the superyachts into the heart of the old city.<br />

FROM TOP: © JOAN MARC, GERHARD WESTRICH/LAIF, © PORT ADRIANO<br />

34<br />

DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM<br />

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