Be it military, sporting or ultra luxe, fabric ... - Thomas Stubbs

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“Blousons are on trend this winter, and the classic fabric is leather. We have suede blousons from Loro Piana (pictured on next page, £3,000), shearling-collared flight jackets from Ami (£950), nappa Harringtons from Brioni (pictured on previous page, £2,870), and bikers from Gucci (£2,520).” (Ami is an excellent emerging French brand, and its flyer jacket is thick, tarmacadamdark and without a whiff of Biggles.) “The most important thing with a leather is fit – it should be snug when you first buy, because it will give like a pair of shoes,” Bateman advises. “Second is shape, and this is personal. I like a knitted hem and cuff because I have a long body and short-ish legs, so this style shortens the proportion of the body and gives me a better overall look.” And colour? “We have them in navy blue, olive green and tan as well as black and brown.” The treatment of leather to achieve distinctive colours and patinas is a signature technique of Berluti – a French brand founded by the Italian bootmaker. Now, its first season of ready-to-wear menswear uses the house’s artisan processes to striking effect on simple leather biker jackets (pictured right, price on request), where an almost antique quality is achieved. The darkgreen zip leather is hand-patinated at the end of a vegetal tanning processing that takes more than 25 hours. It has a remarkable, stippled patina, making for a distinctive piece in conjunction with its cut. “Leathers are constructed following the tailor-made rules that we normally use for handmade suits,” says artistic director Alessandro Sartori. “This, together with the rich colour, and the quality of the patina are making the Berluti leather garments as iconic as the shoes.” Another simple sheath-like jacket is in a shiny bordeaux and navy reversible nappa baby calfskin (price on request). It’s an example of Berluti’s artisanal colouration prowess, and a great-looking biker interpretation to boot. Jackets go through further fabric experimentation in the hands of motorcycle clothing brand Belstaff, the first company to ever use waxed cotton. There’s a classic-cut biker in graphite-grey waxed crocodile (£60,000); chocolate croc takes on the famous Roadmaster belted four-pocket jacket (£80,000); and on-trend quilted leather versions of both styles. However, the shearling biker and Roadmaster are the coups of the season, both in black with taped seams. Such dark and refined shearlings and sheepskins are a key look. Italian luxury tailoring house Brioni seasonally produces a couple of covetable hide jackets. The best this autumn is a plush black suede blouson (£6,600) with leather piping and mink-fur lining and collar. A structured coat between a classic sheepskin and car-coat style, in a dark, cocoa shearling, has an almost 1970s accent (£3,900). This shape is good for men who are not suited to overly waistconscious jackets. Rich, intense ebony bonded-sheepskin car coats come from Spanish leather designer Loewe (from £2,895); it makes convincing black, padded suede field jackets (from £4,450), too. Also subtly retro are peat-dark nubuck coats bonded with sheepskin collars and lapels (£6,250), and no stigma of 1970s football manager is hinted at. Head of menswear at Harrods, Jason Broderick, clearly enjoys designer 68 Clockwise from main picture: leather jacket, price on request, by Berluti at Harrods. Leather and shearling flying jacket, £4,600, by Louis Vuitton. Calf-skin blouson, £2,335, by Tod’s. Lamb-suede trench coat, £4,050, by Ralph Lauren Purple Label. Shearling and nubuck car coat, £6,250, by Loewe “Shearling’s cocooning quality has been perfectly employed by designers Margiela and McQueen” interpretations of sheepskin and shearling. “They’ve always been winter staples and are a fantastic way to add texture and warmth. The cocooning qualities of sheepskin and shearling has been perfectly employed by designers such as Margiela and McQueen.” His favourite? “I love the sumptuous leather jackets with shearling trim, especially this year’s Alexander McQueen coat (£4,400).” Other directional retailers assert that it’s the updated classic designs that work best for their customers. “We’ve found the strongest pieces are those that give a nod to iconic styles – the biker, bomber and flying jacket – while adding a contemporary spin,” Stacey Smith, buyer for Matches boutiques, tells me. “Acne has retooled the biker, with some great black leather and fabric-mix versions (£460).” The fashion-led Swedish label has also created Blue – a black shiny, quite boxy, leather jacket (£950). “Lanvin’s blouson comes in two-tone leather (£1,830), adding a graphic sense to a menswear staple. Gucci’s horse-leather jacket (pictured right, £2,520) is a modern reinterpretation of the 1940s aviator jacket,” continues Smith. The Gucci flyer’s patch pockets and ribbed waistband are a little retro – but not overtly so. Flying jackets are a strong, manly story, and easy to wear with conviction at most ages while channelling the current fur trend in an understated manner. Louis Vuitton’s no-nonsense approach to its howtospendit.com 289_Leather_outerwear_PRESS.indd 3 31/08/2012 14:00
lack/purple deerskin flyer (pictured on previous page, £4,600) with its detachable beaver collar and lightweight fabrication epitomises chic, under-the-radar luxury. For those who like their style more nostalgic without going authentically vintage, there is Bally’s jacket in caramel water-repellent lamb-nappa, which also has shearling collar and cashmere lining (pictured right, £1,850). In fact, Bally’s collection is good all round, including caramel coats cut like simple macs (from £1,850) and other items not frequently seen in hide. Ralph Lauren is also working unexpected fabrication. Classic flyers (from £1,860) and bikers (from £1,860) both appear in the Black Label range. However, the most interesting design this season is the supple lamb-suede trench (pictured on previous page, from £4,050) from Purple Label. With Italian horn buttons and a shorter cut, it’s slightly trimmer through the bottom and shoulder than normal Ralph trenches and is a great way into structured suede/leather, particularly if you’re not tall. Mid- and three-quarter length leather coats (pictured on first page, from £570) were focal at Ermenegildo Zegna, where a new Matelassé technique – an embossed quilting method – has been used on some leathers to modernising effect. Meanwhile, Zegna’s pea coats (price on request) and military coats (£4,000) in “vintage” shearlings with curly hair in vivid ochre-tan colours reference 1980s styles. Also looking back a few decades were the tailored leathers at Trussardi, a house whose new collections designed by Umit Benan Sahin (this autumn is his second) are the toast of sophisticated style pundits at the Milan shows. Racing driver Jackie Stewart inspired the 1970s playboy storyline that combined tailoring, rich earth and jewel colours combined with flamboyant retro-styling. On the runway, washed nappa-leather pieces, such as the fox-fur trimmed pea coat (£3,260) and embossed bombers (£2,475), channelled this and the deep-tan leather trench was one of the biggest statements of the season. Black leather trenches at Valentino (pictured right, £5,825) and Hermès combine great style with a touch of menace – think iconic films The Night Porter and Blade Runner. The Hermès trench (pictured right, £12,170) is interesting for its re-styled military pockets and belt details, as well as being made from smooth “sport calf” leather, which has no grain and is usually used for bags. Although not agesensitive, these dark military styles require a certain stature and theatricality, which means you do have to get into the part as well as the coat. If you prefer your clothes to play more of a supporting role, the simple calf-leather bombers at Tod’s (pictured on previous page, from £2,335) are the epitome of modern low-key luxury. Artisan workers meticulously select skins and treat them with special waxes, making the leather exquisitely soft and supple. Finely ribbed waistbands, cuffs and even the zips are carefully coloured to match. There were many different types of leather coat on the runway this autumn – a style and choice of skin for each stage of a man’s style-life. Whether it be a strong, tough statement to channel a certain machismo and rebellion or a softer choice of skin and shape for elegant finery, taste and comfort. Whatever your preferred, the leather jacket is far from a one-trick pony – and worth the investment. ✦ 70 “ The strongest pieces are those that give a nod to iconic styles – the biker, bomber and flying jacket” From far left: Horse-leather flying jacket, £2,520, by Gucci at Matches. Calf-leather trench, £12,170, by Hermès. Nappa-leather trench, £5,825, by Valentino. Lamb-nappa flying jacket, £1,850, by Bally. Ami leather flight jacket, £950 hide: a multitude of skins Acne, 13 Dover Street, London W1S (020-76299 3744; www.acnestudios.com). Alexander McQueen, 4-5 Old Bond Street, London W1S (020-7355 0088), and see Mr. Porter. Ami, www. amiparis.fr and see Mr Porter. Bally, 116 New Bond Street, London W1S (020-7491 7062; www.bally.com) and see Selfridges. Belstaff, 12-13 Conduit Street, London W1S (020-7495 5897; www.belstaff. com). Berluti, 43 Conduit Street, London W1S (020-7437 1740; www.berluti.com) see Harrods. Brioni, 32 Bruton Street, London W1J (020-7491 7700; www.brioni.com). Ermenegildo Zegna, 37-38 New Bond Street, London, W1S (020-7518 2700; www.zegna.com) and see Matches. Gucci, 18 Sloane Street, London SW1 (020-7235 6707; www.gucci.com). Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X (020-7730 1234; www.harrods.com). Hermès, 155 New Bond Street, London W1S, (020-7499 8856; www.hermes.com). Lanvin, 32 Savile Row, London W1 (020-7434 3384; www.lanvin.com). Loewe, 125 Mount Street, London W1 (020-7499 0266; www.loewe. com) and see Harrods. Loro Piana, 153 New Bond Street, London W1S (020-7499 9300; www.loropiana.com) see Mr Porter. Lot 78, 125 Ledbury Road, London W11 (020-7243 4118; www.lot78.com), and see Mr Porter. Louis Vuitton, 17-20 New Bond Street, London W1S (020-7399 3856; www.louisvuitton.com) see Harrods. Martin Margiela, see Harrods. Matches, www.matchesfashion.com. Mr Porter, www.mrporter.com. Ralph Lauren, 1 New Bond Street, London W1S (020 7535 4600; www.ralphlauren.com). Schott, www. schottnyc.com and see Mr Porter. Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A (0800-123400; www.selfridges.com). Tod’s, 2-5 Old Bond Street, London W1S (020-7493 2237; www.tods.com) and see Selfridges. Trussardi, www.trussardi.com. Valentino, 174 Sloane Street, London SW1X (020-7235 5855; www.valentino.com). howtospendit.com getty images/ amana images 289_Leather_outerwear_PRESS.indd 4 23/08/2012 13:02
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Be it military, sporting or ultra luxe, fabric ... - Thomas Stubbs

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