COMMUNITY TREE PLANTING GUIDELINE - SPGS

LAWLOG PRODUCTION GRANT SCHEME 

COMMUNITY TREE PLANTING GUIDELINE 

Sawlog Production Grant Scheme 

Supporting Tree Planting in Uganda Since 2003 

Tree planting is rapidly being recognised a viable investment opportunity by communities. In order to 

facilitate all those intending to enter this lucrative venture, the SPGS has prepared this community tree 

planting guideline. The guideline describes the various important steps you take in tree growing. Such 

stages include forest plantation planning, planting, maintenance and protection.


The Sawlog Production Grant Scheme (SPGS) has been helping people plant trees in Uganda since 2003. One 

of our goals is to educate people about the importance of trees in their community and guide them through the 

process of successful tree-planting. 

Franklin Delano Roosevelt once said “to exist as a nation, to prosper as a state, and to live as a people, we must have 

trees”. Research has shown this to be true. As a volunteer or professional, you are important to the health and well 

being of your community. You can lead the way to enhancing your community by organizing and implementing 

tree planting. 

Trees are a capital investment. They add to the economic and environmental well being of your community. Well 

planted trees are a source of income, would mitigate water run off, lower energy costs, reduce noise, sequester 

carbon and cleans the air, while replenishing the oxygen in the air we breathe. 

We designed this Community Tree Planting Guide to help you through the process of organizing and implementing 

a successful tree-planting project. It begins by assessing your planning site and concludes with long term care for 

your trees. Your project will be a lasting gift to your community while reflecting community development pride 

and spirit. SPGS is glad to support you in your efforts and we wish you success. 

Sincerely, 

Allan Amumpe 

SPGS Project Manager 

Margaret Bamukyawa, from LEMA (a Luwero-based community planting group) admiring a well established pine plantation 

in Kyenjojo (the NFA’s Oruha Forest Reserve). This is Pinus caribaea var. hondurensis from Australian seed: the trees are 

only 26 months old and have been well weeded. 

Cover Photo: Muzira Cooperative Society Members. 

One of the Communities supported by SPGS. Some 

of Muzira Cooperative Society members in Bushenyi 

District. By March 2007, this community had planted 

close to 50ha of Pinus Caribaea trees under SPGS 

support. 

Community Tree Planting Guideline


Contents 

1.0 INTRODUCTION---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4 

1.1 Why plant trees?----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4 

1.2 Which timber tree species are available for planting?----------------------------------------------------------- 4 

2.0 PLANTATION PLANNING----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5 

2.1 What are the activities that you need to plan for?--------------------------------------------------------------- 5 

2.2 What is the best time to carry out the different plantation activities?---------------------------------------- 5 

3.0 LAND PREPARATION---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6 

3.1 Site Survey------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 6 

3.2 What is the right tree species to plant on my area?------------------------------------------------------------- 7 

3.3 What factors determine the type of tree species to be planted?----------------------------------------------- 7 

3.4 What distance apart should I plant my trees?-------------------------------------------------------------------- 9 

3.5 Where do I get the seed/seedlings for planting?----------------------------------------------------------------- 10 

3.6 Preparing land for tree planting----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11 

4.0 PLANTING SEEDLINGS-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14 

4.1 Seedling handling and transportation to the planting site----------------------------------------------------- 15 

4. 2 How to successfully plant a tree seedling------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15 

4.3 Beating up------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 17 

4.4 Establishment of plantation using taungya---------------------------------------------------------------------- 17 

5.0 MAINTAINING YOUR TREES------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18 

5.1 Weeding--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18 

5.2 Pruning---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21 

5.3 Thinning-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22 

6.0 PROTECTING YOUR TREES-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23 

6.1 How do I protect my plantation from fire?---------------------------------------------------------------------- 23 

6.2 How do I protect my plantation from pests and diseases?------------------------------------------------------24 

6.3 How do I protect my plantation from animals?----------------------------------------------------------------- 24 

7.0 HARVESTING AND REPLANTING TREE PLANTATIONS------------------------------------------ 24 

7.1 What is the best time for cutting (or selling) your trees?------------------------------------------------------- 25 

7.2 Why is it not advisable to cut/sell your trees too early or too late after maturity?..----------------------- 25 

7.3 Replanting of felled tree plantations------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 25 

8.0 PLANTATION RECORD KEEPING------------------------------------------------------------------------ 25 

APPENDIX 1: SPGS COMMERIAL AND COMMUNITY SUPPORT---------------------------------------- 26 

APPENDIX 2: SPGS PLANTATION GUIDELINES---------------------------------------------------------- 27 

 



1.0 INTRODUCTION 

This tree planting manual is one of the series 

of plantation guidelines being published by 

SPGS to assist private timber growers establish 

fast growing and high yielding timber tree plantations. 

It is a simplified and well illustrated manual aimed at 

meeting the huge demand for effective tree planting 

skills that are greatly lacking in the country. The manual 

is especially prepared for those whose objective is to 

plant trees mainly for timber and large poles. It can, 

however, serve those intending to grow trees for small 

poles and/or fuelwood. 

The manual guides you step by step through the important 

aspects of forest plantation planning, establishment, 

maintenance and protection up to harvesting the trees. 

Detailed information on each of these aspects can be 

found on other relevant SPGS plantation guidelines 

(listed in Appendix 2). People intending to grow trees 

for agroforestry 

purposes are 

advised to contact 

a g r i c u l t u r a l 

extension workers 

available at your 

Sub-county. 

1.1 Why 

plant 

trees? 

Tree plantations are 

a major source of 

wood for general 

c o n s t r u c t i o n , 

especially housebuilding 

and 

making furniture like chairs, tables and many others. 

Besides increasing the value of your land as well as 

protecting it from encroachers, the main objectives of 

growing trees are often to produce timber and poles. 

Others are for fuelwood, charcoal, food for man and 

livestock, fertilizing and protecting soil, medicinal 

products and provision of shade for livestock and 

food crops. Trees are also often planted to beautify the 

landscape and purify or restore degraded areas. 

1.2 Which timber tree species 

are available for planting? 

Many indigenous (local) and exotic (introduced) tree 

species are available to grow in most parts of Uganda. 

However, if your objective is to plant timber trees as 

a business, its better you plant tree species with the 

following characteristics: 

• Those with reliable sources of high quality 

seed. 

• Species that have fast growth. 

• Species with desirable wood properties 

• Species suited to grow well on your planting site 

and 

• Species that grow well in a plantation situation. 

Many exotic tree species grow relatively faster than local 

ones and improved seed sources are often available. 

Moreover, the methods of establishing and maintaining 

them are well researched and understood. Examples of 

such exotic trees are Pines (Pinus caribaea and Pinus patula), 

Eucalypts (e.g. Eucalyptus grandis), Cypress (Cupressus 

lusitanica), Teak (Tectona grandis), Terminalia (Terminalia 

superba) and Hoop Pine (Araucaria cunninghamii). 

Some 

indigenous trees 

include Muzizi 

(Maesopsis eminii), 

Mahoganies 

(Khaya 

anthothica and 

Entandophragma 

spp), Mvule 

(Melicia excelsa), 

Prunus africanum 

and Podo 

(Podocarpus 

spp.). Because 

of their long 

maturity period, 

local trees can 

be preferably 

planted where the main objective is environment 

protection. Please refer to section 3.2 on species 

site matching described below to help you decide on 

which tree species to plant on your area. 

A well thinned Eucalyptus grandis plantation in South Africa (15 years old) 

So if your objective is to grow trees for timber and 

poles, it is now time to get started! Whether you intend 

to plant trees on small scale or on large scale, the 

recommended standards of tree planting should be 

followed to the end for the best results. It is essential 

to plan ahead carefully before you start so that you 

will not make any big mistakes and to ensure that you 

establish and maintain your trees properly to ensure 

they grow fast. 

 



2.0 PLANTATION PLANNING 

This is a first step that you have to do in order to be 

prepared for tree planting. You must first understand 

all the important steps (or activities) that you will have 

to undergo and when each of these activities should 

be carried out. Once you know these activities and 

the right time of doing them, it is easier for you to 

budget and look for all the resources needed ahead of 

time. on Your your plantation’s area. success depends on how well 

you time the required activities. As an example, let us 

assume that it is now January: you have land and you 

need to start planting Pine (Pinus caribaea) trees in the 

September rains. So you need to start planning! 

The common activities that you need to plan for 

include: 

Site survey, species selection (seed purchase, nursery 

preparation, seed sowing), clearing land, lining out, 

pitting, pre-plant weed control, planting, post plant 

weed control, and tree protection. The plantation 

calendar below helps to relate these activities with the 

best time at which they should be carried out. The 

need to start planning! 

shaded boxes show the month(s) in which you should 

carry out a particular activity in order to plant your 

trees in September. 

2.2 What is the best time to carry 

out the different plantation 

activities? 

As depicted in the calendar below, plantation activities 

are generally timed according to major rainy seasons 

in the country. In most parts of the country there are 

planted where the main objective is environment protection. Please refer to section on 

species site matching described below to help two you seasons decide - March/April on which and tree September/October. 

species to plant 

These seasons differ in duration of rains depending 

on your location. In some areas like Western Uganda, 

September/October is the longer rainy season, whilst 

So if your objective is to grow trees for timber 

in most 

and 

other 

poles, 

parts 

it 

of 

is 

the 

now 

country 

time 

the 

to get 

best 

started! 

rains are 

Whether you intend to plant trees on small normally scale or in March/April. on large scale, The usual the advice recommended however, is 

standards of tree planting should be followed to to plan the for end your for main the planting best results. in the long It is rainy essential season 

to plan ahead carefully before you start so that and you to plant will as not early make as possible any big when mistakes the rains and start. to 

2.1 

ensure 

What 

that 

are 

you establish 

the activities 

and maintain 

that 

your trees properly to ensure they grow fast. 

you need to plan for? 

Following the graph below, if the plan is to plant in 

September, site survey and tree species selection 

activities should be done in January. Buy the seed no 

2.0 PLANTATION PLANNING 

This is a first step that you have to do in order to be prepared for tree planting. You must 

first understand all the important steps (or activities) that you will have to undergo and 

when each of these activities should be carried out. Once you know these activities and 

the right time of doing them, it is easier for you to budget and look for all the resources 

needed ahead of time. Your plantation’s success depends on how well you time the 

required activities. As an example, let us assume that it is now January: you have land 

and you need to start planting Pine (Pinus caribaea) trees in the September rains. So you 

later than February and (if you have your own nursery) 

start nursery preparation in March. If you are buying 

your seedlings from a nursery, make sure it is one 

recommended by the SPGS nearby. With Pine (e.g 

Pinus caribaea), seed sowing should be done in May, to 

give pine seedlings 4 months to mature for planting in 

early September. If raising Eucalyptus grandis, however, 

3 months is sufficient - so sowing should be carried 

out in June. SPGS Plantation Guideline No. 7 – Tree 

Nurseries - is very useful and has more details). 

2.1 What are the activities that you need to plan for? 

The common activities that you need to plan for include: 

Site survey, species selection (seed purchase, nursery preparation, seed sowing), clearing 

land, lining out, pitting, pre-plant weed control, planting, weeding and tree protection. 

The plantation calendar below helps to relate these activities with the best time at which 

they should be carried out. The shaded boxes show the month in which you should carry 

out a particular activity in order to plant your trees in September. 

By around May (usually as the rains are ending), start 

mobilising labour for land clearing. This operation can 

run up to July to allow time for lining out and pitting 

in mid-August. The weeds must be controlled before 

planting the trees; otherwise they will take all the water 

and nutrients from the newly planted seedlings. Slash 

the weeds if necessary. 

Activity calendar for planting in September/October rains 

ACTIVITY 

JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC 

1 Site survey 

2 Species selection 

3 Seed purchase 

4 Nursery preparation 

5 Seed sowing 

6 Clearing land 

7 Lining out 

8 Pitting 

9 Pre-plant weed control 

10 Planting 

11 Timely weeding 

12 Fire protection 

13 Animal protection 

14 Pest/Disease control 

 

Community Tree Planting Guideline 

2.2 What is the best time to carry out the different plantation activities?


Larger scale planters might want to use Glyphosate 

herbicide to spray the weeds before planting (N.B. if 

using chemicals, the staff must be properly trained and 

have safety equipment – see SPGS Plantation Guideline 

No. 16 for further details). 

In September when the soil is wet enough and the 

weeds are under control, the tree seedlings can be 

planted. Thereafter, the newly planted trees should be 

weeded when necessary and also protected from fires 

and from grazing animals. Remember that for proper 

tree planting business, people need to have the right 

skills for the right job, so make sure you have your core 

workers trained in plantation skills before embarking 

on major plantation activities. If this is not possible 

at your plantation, then hire a skilled labour from a 

neighbouring plantation for the beginning. 

Where land is limited like among the rural community, 

the following areas below can be utilised for tree 

planting: 

• Along the boundary with your neighbour. 

• Along the edges of your compound. 

• Along the sides of the main public road passing 

through your land or road leading to your home. 

3.1.3 Where should I not plant 

trees? 

A farmer should be aware that it is wrong to plant 

timber trees on the following areas: 

3.0 LAND PREPARATION FOR 

SUCCESSFUL TREE PLANTING 

Once you are through with the work of planning, 

then you should now put your plans to work. This you 

do by undertaking site survey, species site matching 

(tree species selection), determining the right spacing, 

followed by land preparation and seedling planting as 

explained below:- 

3.1 Site Survey 

In site survey, you are interested in: 1) identifying the 

site where to plant the trees (and ensuring that the 

boundaries are clearly defined); 2) establishing the 

shape (lay out) of your plantation, dividing the area 

into smaller units (compartments) if necessary as you 

decide where the service roads or fire breaks will pass 

3) measuring the total area (in hectares) available for 

tree planting and 4) identifying areas to be protected 

such as wetlands and natural forests. 

3.1.2 Where can I plant my 

trees? 

All tree growers are advised never to clear an intact 

natural forest in order to plant trees. This is because 

the environmental and biodiversity values of a natural 

forest can not be replaced by tree plantations which 

are normally of just one species! Trees should only be 

planted in degraded forests or on other areas with few 

trees on. Remember trees like other food crops would 

prefer a fairly fertile land for best growth although 

most farmers often look for the poorest part of their 

land (including swampy areas) for tree planting. 

 

There is no timber tree that can grow on water even eucalyptus! These 

young pines have already started dying off. 

• On swamps or on areas that flood whenever it 

rains 

• Sites with intact natural forest cover should be 

conserved. 

• Any cultural site. 

• Land with unclear ownership. 

3.1.4 How do I lay out my 

plantation? 

Establishing the shape of your plantation requires 

you to walk through, and around the area where trees 

are to be planted. The objective is to enable you note 

the special features like swamps, rivers, hills, public 

roads, and many more that may be located within or 

neighbouring your area. Generally a plantation layout 

can be established as follows:- 

i. Mark the boundaries of your plantation, with 

corners clearly seen. Existing big trees or tough 

growing plants like sisal and Dracaena fragrans 

(Oluwanyi) can be used to mark corners. 



ii. 

iii. 

iv. 

Establish a firebreak (5-15m) along the boundary 

to surround your plantation. If your plantation 

is surrounded by food gardens, make sure that 

after they are harvested, the drying vegetation is 

removed and placed at least 5m away. 

Where a clear public road, any permanent water 

body or a natural forest borders your plantation, 

these should form the firebreak. 

Decide on the spacing of your trees - which 

among others depends on tree species and 

expected final product 

For large scale plantations, much more can be done on 

the lay out. For example, the plantation area is divided 

into sub units or compartments (normally 25-30ha), 

which are separated by at least 8-15m wide spaces. The 

road network both internal and external is included 

which could be 5-8m wide. 

3.1.5 How can I determine the 

area of my plantation? 

You should know the size of your plantation so that 

you can estimate the number of seedlings needed for 

planting among others. Depending on whether your 

area is big or small the methods described below can 

serve as a guide. 

i. For small community woodlots that are normally 

1-2 acres, the area can be estimated by counting 

walking steps along two main directions. The 

number of steps taken along one corner of the 

plot is taken as length and the other as width. A 

walking step is approximated to be one metre. 

ii. 

iii. 

iv. 

If the area is approximately in the form of a 

square or rectangle, a long measuring tape can 

be used to measure the two sides of the area. 

One side is taken as length and other as width. 

Multiplying the two sides gives an approximate 

size of the area in square meters (m 2 ). This can 

then be converzted into hectares by dividing by 

10,000m 2 . 

Using Global Positioning System (GPS) which 

automatically computes the area in hectares 

after moving around the boundary of your 

plantation. GPS machines are still rare and thus 

the charges for their use may be high. They are 

recommended for big areas only. 

The district survey departments or private 

surveyors near to you can be contracted to 

demarcate your land. 

3.2 What is the right tree 

species to plant on my 

area? 

You can decide on which tree species to plant on your 

area by carrying out species site matching: this is the 

procedure undertaken to determine the most suitable 

tree species to be planted on a particular area. It is 

important that you ONLY plant trees that are most 

suited to your area. This is because only the best suited 

trees planted on an area will grow fast and mature early. 

In other words, the selection of the right tree species 

to plant on your area directly determines the success or 

failure of your plantation! 

3.3 What factors determine the 

type of tree species to be 

planted? 

In most cases, tree growth is affected by climate and 

soil conditions of the area. Other factors are the 

expected final products (targeted market), the nature 

of your land (hilly or flat), pest and disease threat. So, 

you can tell which tree species to plant on your area by 

looking at the following climate and soil conditions and 

comparing them with the various tree species growth 

requirements on table 1. 

a) Climate mainly rainfall and temperatures: 

• Rainfall amount and distribution. Basically areas 

that receive two long rainy seasons (at least 3 

months) per year are suited for most tree species 

like Eucalyptus grandis, Pinus patula, Pinus caribaea, 

Maesopsis eminii, Cupressus lusitanica and Araucaria 

cunninghamii. Areas that have only one long rain 

season per year like in northern Uganda are most 

suited for growing Pinus caribaea. Generally, areas 

along the cattle corridor like Mbarara, Mubende, 

Kiboga, Nakasongola, Teso and Karamoja regions 

which are usually dry should at the time being focus 

on planting the reasonably drought resistant Pinus 

caribaea until other appropriate tree species are 

available. 

• Temperature. Pinus patula is strictly restricted to 

cooler temperatures especially those in Kabale. 

If planted else where it will fail. Cool areas like 

Kabale, Fort Portal, Paidah, Mbale and Kapchorwa 

are preferred by Eucalyptus grandis and Cupressus 

lusitanica as well. 

 



b) Soil conditions:- 

On a general note, most soil conditions in the country 

can 

• 

support 

Temperature. 

tree growth. 

Pinus patula 

However, 

is strictly 

on your 

restricted 

particular 

to cooler temperatures 

especially those in Kabale. If planted else where it will fail. Cool areas like 

site you Kabale, need Fort to check Portal, for Paidah, soil type, Mbale depth, and and Kapchorwa fertility. are preferred by 

This Eucalyptus requires you grandis to and move Cupressus across lusitanica your area as and well. use 

your personal experience to judge the above conditions 

as b) follows:- Soil conditions:- 

On a general note, most soil conditions in the country can support tree growth. 

Starting However, from on your one end particular of your site area, you need dig a to pit check 1M deep for soil type, depth, and 

(or fertility. until rock) This and requires wide you with to a move hoe (or across pick axe your if area rocky) and use Group your personal A tree species like pines that are able to grow even on 

and experience note the to judge dark the layer above of conditions top soil, as the follows:- brown layer thin soils can always be allocated on hill tops EXCEPT where 

of sub soil, the ease of digging through and stoniness. it is bare stony. Group B tree species are those that prefer deeper 

Starting from one end of your area, dig a pit 1M deep (or until rock) 

Repeat this in other parts of your area to get the soils like and the wide Eucalypts, Teak, Terminalia, Musizi and Hoop 

with a hoe (or pick axe if rocky) and note the dark layer of top 

general feeling. While walking across your area, observe 

pine soil, among the brown others. All trees must be planted at least 20m away 

layer of sub soil, the ease of digging through and stoniness. Repeat this in other 

from any wetland. 

the parts existing of your vegetation area to get to the help general you feeling. judge soil While fertility. walking across your area, 

Poorly observe growing the existing vegetation may to help imply you in judge fertile soil soils fertility. Poorly growing 

vegetation may imply in fertile soils where especially Eucalyptus 

where especially Eucalyptus should not be planted. Eucalypts should not are be frequently killed by termites, especially 

planted. 

in the hotter, drier areas of the 

Table 1: Shows various soil conditions and suitable tree species to grow. 

country (e.g. around the ‘cattle 

Soil condition 

Tree species to plant 

corridor’). Fortunately, such 

Deep (non stony); fertile (dark or 1 st priority is Eucalyptus grandis, 

dry areas are not recommended 

dark-brown); soft (easy to dig) and Araucaria cunninghamii, Maesopsis eminii for growing Eucalypts as earlier 

well drained. 

and *2 nd priority is pines 

e) Pests 

(P. 

and 

patula 

diseases 

only on 

Eucalypts are frequently killed by termites, mentioned. especially in These the hotter, drier areas areas should of 

highlands). 

the country (e.g. around the ‘cattle corridor’). Fortunately, such dry areas are not 

Shallower (but still min. 600mm Only Pines* 

recommended for growing Eucalypts be as earlier left mentioned. for These pines areas and should be other 

left for pines and other qualifying species and you insist, be prepared to fight a 

depth needed) and less fertile but 

real challenging battle with termites. 

qualifying 

Another threat to 

species 

most Eucalypts 

and 

species 

if 

in 

you 

well drained. 

Uganda is the Blue Gum Chalcid wasp. insist, be prepared to fight a real 

* Pine trees can still grow even much better where soils are deep and fertile 

Some destruction of pine roots by moles challenging is reported in battle Rwoho CFR with (Ntungamo termites. 

district) while aphids used to destroy Cypress trees but have since been 

c) Final product or the intended market 

biologically controlled just like pine Another woolly aphids. threat The to Mvule most trees Eucalypts are 

susceptible 

c) Final product or the intended market species 

to gall 

in 

flies 

Uganda 

attack. Isolated 

is the 

cases 

Blue 

of Armillaria 

Gum 

root 

Chalcid 

rot disease 

wasp. 

attack 

From a business viewpoint, your choice for which tree species to plant should be 

(See 

on pines has been reported in Nabukonge CFR in Masaka and Global woods 

influenced by what is demanded in the market. For example, where plantations section the in end Kikonda 6.2) use CFR. is Otherwise apart from the current Chalcid wasp on 

poles, Eucalyptus (especially E. grandis) is the best choice whereas Eucalypts, there is no major threat from pests and diseases for the recommended 

From a business viewpoint, your choice for which tree trees Some pine 

as long destruction timber 

as they are planted of on right pine sites roots and well by looked moles after. is Please reported refer in 

attracts wide market for general construction purposes. to section 6.2 for what you can do to protect your plantation. 

species to plant should be influenced by what is 

Table 2: The main timber species, their growth requirements and common 

demanded d) The nature in of the land market. For example, where the 

characteristics 

end If the use land is is poles, flat or Eucalyptus gently sloping, (especially tree species E. grandis) above can be grown. However, 

when the land consists of steep hills like those common Tree in species South Western Required and climate Soil Conditions Other notes 

is Western the best Uganda, choice whereas the pines pine should timber be planted attracts on wide the slopes and tops of hills 

MAR MAT ( 

market for general construction purposes. 

o C)* 

(provided there is sufficient depth of soil). Eucalypts and other tree species (mm)* should 

be planted on deep fertile soils at hill bottom or valleys (but Kalitunsi NOT in wetlands). >1000/yr At Cooler Deep & fertile soils Grows faster 8-15 

(Eucalyptus grandis) 

areas 600/yr Cooler Fairly deep fertile Best choice for SW 

lusitanica) 

areas 750/yr 17-25 o C Deep moist soils like 

in tropical high 

forests areas 

>1300/yr 24 o -27 o C Well drained deep 

fertile soil 

*MAR= Mean Annual Rainfall; MAT= Mean Annual Temperature; > greater than; < less than. 

Maturity 20-25 yrs 

More information on selecting the right tree species can be found in SPGS Plantation 

Guideline Nos. 5 & 6. 

 



Rwoho CFR (Ntungamo district) while aphids used to 

destroy Cypress trees but have since been biologically 

controlled just like pine woolly aphids. Isolated cases 

of Armillaria root rot disease attack on pines has been 

reported in Nabukonge CFR in Masaka and Global 

woods plantations in Kikonda CFR. Otherwise apart 

from the current Chalcid wasp on Eucalypts, there 

is no major threat from pests and diseases for the 

recommended trees as long as they are planted on right 

sites and well looked after. Please refer to section 6.2 

for what you can do to protect your plantation. 

in community 

planting) it allows Note: Number of seedlings in one hectare = area of a hectare ÷ spacing chosen 

for some food = 10,000m 2 ÷ 3x3=1111sph or 10,000m 2 ÷ 2.7 x 2.7 = 1,372 sph. 

crops to be planted 

between tree rows. Remember that when planting at 

Remember 

1,111 stems 

that 

per hectare 

when 

(sph) 

planting 

instead 

at 1,111 

of the 

stems 

more 1,372 

per 

sph, your costs on buying seedlings 

hectare 

and labour 

(sph) instead 

for pitting 

of the 

and 

more 

spot hoeing 

1,372 sph, 

can 

your 

be reduced 

costs 

by almost 20%. 

However, wider spacing between trees can have negative on buying seedlings and labour for pitting and spot 

effects like; 

hoeing can be reduced by almost 20%. 

3.5 Where do I get the seed/seedlings for planting? 

One of the determinants of your plantation success is the use of high quality tree seed or 

• It will take longer time seedlings. before trees Quality close here canopy- 

mainly refers to whether the seed is an improved variety (i.e. has 

superior growth & timber characteristics 

 

and good health). Community Tree Planting Guideline 

so you spend more money on weeding your trees. 

• Trees tend to develop thicker or bigger branches at 

the expense of the main stem 

• Trees will be fewer and so you will have less trees 

to choose from during thinning 

• Increased weed growth (as they are exposed to 

light) will most likely increase fire risk on your 

plantation 

• Total volume production is reduced and 

• You catch less early money which people usually 

get from thinnings. 

More information on selecting the right tree species can 

be found in SPGS Plantation Guideline Nos. 5 & 6 

3.4 What distance apart should 

I plant my trees? 

Having determined the right tree species for your area, 

it is now important that you get the right spacing to use 

on your area so that you order for the right number of 

seedlings. We strongly recommend planting your trees 

in lines, which makes everything easier later on – from 

preparing the planting pits to weeding after planting. 

The actual space (distance) between trees may change 

depending on type of tree species, quality of seed, 

expected growth rate, planned weeding technique 

and the availability of market for thinnings or small 

thinning). 

• There is less 

c o m p e t i t i o n 

between trees for a 

longer time 

• Cost savings (less 

pits and seedlings 

per hectare 

• Trees grow larger 

• Where it may 

be required (like 

The standard spacing however for most timber trees 

including pines and Eucalypts of improved seed and 

good quality seedlings is 3m x 3m (10ftx10ft). Also 2.7m 

x 2.7m (9ft x 9ft) is frequently used. But if planting next 

to where there is high demand for small construction 

poles the spacing for Eucalypts can be reduced up to 

2m x 2m (6.6ft x 6.6ft). However closer spacing like 

2m x 2m brings in an early competition between trees 

and so a farmer must be aware and be prepared to cut 

down many of them during first thinning operation to 

allow for better growth of the remaining trees. It is 

a must that all trees being grown for sawlogs/timber 

production will have to be thinned (refer to section 8 

on thinning). 

operation to allow for better growth of the remaining trees. It is a must that all trees 

being grown for sawlogs/timber production will have to be thinned (refer to section 8 on 

diameter poles. It may be beneficial to plant trees at 

a wider spacing such 

Table 3: Commonly used spacing and number of seedlings needed per hectare 

that; 

Tree common name Recommended No. of seedlings 15% for 

spacing meters (m) per hectare (sph) Beating up 

Total required 

Seedlings 

Eucalyptus 2x2 2,500 375 2,875 

2x3 2,000 300 2,300 

2.5x2.5 1,600 240 1,840 

3x3 1,111 167 1,278 

Pine 3x3 1,111 167 1,278 

Teak 3x3 1,111 157 1,278 

Araucaria 3x3 1,111 167 1,278 

Musizi 

4x4 625 94 

716 

Terminalia 4x4 625 94 716


3.5 Where do I get the seed/ 

seedlings for planting? 

One of the determinants of your plantation success is 

the use of high quality tree seed or seedlings. Quality 

here mainly refers to whether the seed is an improved 

variety (i.e. has superior growth & timber characteristics 

and good health). 

3.5.1 Where do I get high quality 

seed? 

At the moment SPGS and NFA’s Namanve Tree Seed 

Centre are involved in importing improved seed from 

Australia, Brazil and South Africa for sale to private 

planters in Uganda. These are the current approved 

sources for seed orchard seed of Pinus caribaea var 

hondurensis (PCH) and Eucalyptus grandis. Trees from 

these improved seed sources will generally grow faster 

and straighter than locally collected seed. That is why 

you have to pay for their price! 

The impressive 3-year old demonstration planting of Pinus caribaea (Australian 

seed) at Kasagala Forest Reserve, Nakasongola. This is the result of careful planning, 

using only high quality seed, good land preparation and intensive weeding. 

Tree nurseries require much skill in establishment 

and management. You need properly trained and 

experienced nursery workers and constant supervision. 

Often many people have wasted money buying an 

expensive improved seed and they fail to raise seedlings. 

Therefore, unless operating on a large scale (say planting 

100ha/year) you are advised not to get involved in 

another complicated business of starting your own tree 

nursery. Small growers are thereby recommended to 

buy their seedlings from a recommended nursery near 

your area. 

3.5.2 Where do I get high quality 

seedlings? 

You can get good seedlings from the recommended 

3.5.2 Where do I get high quality seedlings? 

nurseries as shown on table 4: 

You can get good seedlings from the recommended nurseries as shown on table 4 

below: 

Table 4: Seedling nursery location and contact 

NO Name of nursery District Contact person Phone 

National Forestry Authority 

1 Namanve NTC Kampala Stephen 0772-561227 

2 Mubende Mubende Joseph 0772-468691 

3 Mbarara Mbarara David 0772-466498 

4 Masindi Masindi Robert 0782-241870 

5 Kityerera Mayuge Stephen 0772-966218 

6 Katugo Nakasongola Stephen 0772-966218 

7 Gulu Gulu Jimmy 0772-645040 

8 Arua Arua Stephen 0772-925762 

Private Tree Nurseries 

9 Busoga Forest Co. Mayuge Jossy 0772-471164 

10 Global Woods Kiboga Shedrack 0772-384024 

11 Kamusiime Memorial Bushenyi Brenda 0772-452680 

12 Ankole Woods & Mbarara Robert 0772-420197 

Timber Co. 

14 Norwegian A.G Lira Macapili 0772-615132 

13 Banda Kampala Fred Ahimbisibwe 0772-392175 

14 Nakasongola Nakasongola Fred Ahimbisibwe 0772-392175 

15 Uganda Media Trust Mbarara Pathius 0772-457546 

16 for Environment Ntungamo Pathius 0772-457546 

3.5.3 What are the characteristics of a good seedling? 

A seedling of good quality should have the following characteristics: 

i. Healthy (of normal green colour without signs of pests and disease attack). 

3.5.3 What are the 

ii. Best height is from 15cm to 25cm tall measured from root collar. 

iii. Not characteristics those that have stayed in the nursery of from a the previous good season. 

PHOTO seedling? 

5 

A seedling 

3.5.4 What 

of 

are 

good 

the characteristics 

quality should 

of a poor 

have 

seedling? 

the following 

A poor seedling unfit for planting has the following characteristics: 

characteristics: 

i. Generally not healthy; leaves are not dark green but yellowish or brown or dry 

spots on leaves or needles. 

ii. Abnormally taller shoot (stem) compared with its root length (2:1 shoot: root 

i. Healthy ratio acceptable). (of normal green colour without signs of 

pests and disease attack). 

iii. Its main stem is branched into two equal branches in form of letter ‘Y’. 

iv. If you lift and over turn to see the bottom of the seedling you find its roots are 

protruding out side and the side roots grow while coiling around the pot. 

ii. Best height is from 15cm to 25cm tall measured 

from root collar. 

iii. Not those that have stayed in the nursery from the 

previous season. 

13 

Local P. oocarpa; You get trees with poor stem form, non 

uniformity and of low growth rates which may catch lower 

market value 10 



from. Look critically at the set up and management 

of that nursery and judge whether it is of the right 

standard to buy seedlings from. Ask for the source of 

the seed used to raise seedlings otherwise you could 

be cheaply buying seedlings raised from seeds locally 

collected from any poor trees in the bush! 

An example of a good Musizi seedling. 

Its root to shoot ratio is 1:2 

3.5.4 What are the 

characteristics of a 

poor seedling? 

A poor seedling unfit for planting has the following 

characteristics: 

i. Generally not healthy; leaves are not dark green 

but yellowish or brown or dry spots on leaves 

or needles. 

ii. Abnormally taller shoot (stem) compared with its 

iii. 

root length (2:1 shoot: root ratio acceptable). 

Its main stem is branched into two equal 

Where you get your seedlings matters: A good example of a nursery like 

this at NTSC should be clean, have qualified staff and all records of 

nursery operations kept well. 

Please refer to SPGS guideline No. 7 for more nursery 

issues. 

3.5.5 What is the approximate 

price for high quality 

seedlings? 

Prices keep varying but as a guide, Pinus caribaea seedling 

cost ranges from 200-300 UShs. Whereas Eucalyptus 

grandis seedling is about 100-150/= each. Always book 

for your seed or seedlings six months in advance to 

planting time and be prepared to pay a 30% deposit. 

Having determined the right tree species to plant and 

also booked the right number of seedlings from a 

reputable nursery, the next activity to do is proper land 

preparation which includes land clearing, lining out and 

pitting as described below. 

An overgrown seedling whose root to shoot ratio is beyond the 

recommended size. 

branches in form of letter ‘Y’. 

iv. If you lift and over turn to see the bottom of 

the seedling you find its roots are protruding 

out side and the side roots grow while coiling 

around the pot. 

v. The seedling roots are loosely attached to its 

soil block that is meant to keep its roots intact. 

Note; always be careful of the nursery you buy seedlings 

3.6 Preparing land for tree 

planting 

Land preparation involves activities that are carried out 

in plantation establishment to ensure that the land on 

which trees are to be planted is clear of any growing 

vegetation and to provide a well cultivated pit for the 

young seedling to grow well in. 

11 



3.6.1 Why is it important to carry 

out land preparation before 

planting trees? 

It is necessary to first carry out land preparation before 

planting tree seedlings so as to increase the chance of 

survival and have rapid growth of the planted trees. By 

carrying out good land preparation your trees will not 

be out competed by weeds and also, the cultivation of 

the soil softens it to enable faster root penetration and 

faster seedling growth. Generally, well prepared land 

makes the later activities much easier to carry out too. 

3.6.2 What are the activities 

under land preparation? 

The common activities in land preparation include land 

clearing, lining out and pitting (digging planting holes). 

These activities should suitably be done during the dry 

season (June-July) before the more demanding activities 

of planting and weeding come in the wet month (in 

September/October). These activities are described 

below:- 

3.6.3 Land clearing 

This is the removal of vegetation (all non planted 

trees/shrubs and bush) existing on the site to be 

planted. However, thick forest land should never be 

cleared for planting trees. Only degraded forest land 

and grassland areas are recommended. Land clearing 

is often done manually using simple tools like an axe, 

panga and slashers combined with burning. Also on 

large scale by spraying with herbicides and using heavy 

machinery like bulldozer to cut, uproot and heap logs/ 

stumps. Whichever method to use depends on existing 

vegetation and scale of planting, but steps taken in land 

clearing are; 

i. All the vegetation including grass and any none 

planted trees at the site must be cut down and 

left to dry. Trees should be cut as close to the 

ground as possible and big tree branches be 

chopped into smaller pieces. 

ii. All the grass as well as the chopped wood should 

then be gathered into small heaps spread on the 

site (preferably on stumps to get them burnt). 

iii. After heaping, they should then be set on fire 

preferably only on cool, non-windy conditions 

days and must be supervised. This should 

leave a clear open area ready for lining out and 

pitting. 

A well cleared site ready for lining out should not hinder visibility 

and movement 

3.6.4 What is lining out? 

This is the procedure taken to plant trees on straight 

lines at recommended spacing. The main reason of 

lining out is to ensure that the trees have enough space 

to grow while at the same time have some competition 

between themselves. This competition is important as 

trees grow to ensure that they produce straight stems 

with reduced branches. Other benefits of planting trees 

in lines are: 

- For easy accessibility or passage through the 

plantation. 

- Maintenance activities like weeding, pruning, 

thinning and harvesting can be contracted out 

to workers based on the number of trees or 

lines done. 

- For quickly estimating the number of trees or 

volume existing on your plantation. 

How do you line out? Lining out takes the following 

steps; 

1. Have a long rope of about 50m marked at 

intervals of the required spacing (say 3m) 

throughout its length. Stretch the rope along 

one side of the plantation site where planting is 

going to start. Now take that stretched line AC 

as your baseline. 

2. At each end of this baseline, mark off two cross 

lines (CE & AE) at right angles (90 o ) with the 

baseline (AC). This you do by measuring off 

first 3m starting from point C up to point B 

with your measuring tape. Next, measure off 

4m again starting from point C up to point D. 

Finally, if you measured distances CB and CD 

correctly, then distance BD is automatically 5m 

and angle BCD is 90 o (3,4,5 rule of the triangle) 

as shown on the diagram below. 

12 



6. When the baseline has moved up to the end of 

the two cross lines, then steps 1-5 are repeated 

until the whole site is covered. 

Diagram showing 3,4,5 rule for marking cross line CE at right 

angle with the base line CA. Pegs are fixed into the ground at 

points BCD to hold tight the measuring tape before extending 

the lines to points A and E. 

3. Now, go and repeat this to mark off another 

cross line (AE) at right angle with the base line 

from point A. Cross line AE should now be 

parallel to cross line CE as shown on diagram 

below 

7. When lining out on steep slopes or hill (more 

than 20 o slope) it is important to do slope 

correction otherwise, the distance between 

trees will be lesser than expected. The same 

procedure of lining out as described above is 

followed. However, now the base line or cross 

line needs to be lifted up from the lower end of 

the slope such that its top end at point A is on 

the same height as its lower end at point B as 

shown by rope AC on diagram below. 

Now your cross line or base line should appear 

as shown by rope AC (3M) whose 3M mark 

C 

Diagram showing how to mark holes on the 

ground between cross lines CE and AE along 

direction ‘d’ 

4. These two cross lines on both ends of the 

baseline should then be marked with the chosen 

spacing say of 3m intervals. 

5. After marking these two cross lines, the rope 

forming the baseline can now be kept moving 

up between the two cross-lines while stopping 

at each mark 2, 3-7 on the two cross-lines as 

directed by arrow ‘d’ above. As this rope is 

being shifted on the two cross lines, a person 

then keeps on marking planting holes on the 

ground by digging shallow holes corresponding 

to the spacing marks on the rope. 

13 

Lining out on a slope needs you to keep the cross line rope not on 

the ground level but be raised up at the same height as the upper 

end (A). A pole then can be used to locate the point (B) where the 

next pit down the hill should be dug. 

on the ground is determined by a vertical pole 

CB. Next, with your pole still at the same mark 

B, lower the rope AC to lie on the ground and 

hold it tight at both ends. You now find that the 

rope AC of 3M long when placed on the steep 

ground does not cover the full length AB but 

ends some where at point D. 

Therefore, measure length DB and add this 

to the spacing being used in order to get the 

true distance AB on the steep ground. If DB 

is 30cm or 0.3M then add it to our spacing of 

3M that is 3 + 0.3 =3.3M. This means all the 

trees on this particular slope should be spaced 

at 3.3m x 3.3m. In this case, the 0.3M is our 

slope correction factor. You can then mark your 

rope at 3.3m spacing. 

After successful lining out, the next step is to proceed 

to pitting. 



3.6.4 What is pitting? 

Pitting is the process of digging pits and pits are the 

holes into which seedlings are planted. It involves 

enlarging the holes that were marked during lining out 

operation. 

How is pitting done:- 

• Use a hoe to remove the vegetation or any 

debris at each marked planting hole to produce 

a clean circle of 1 metre wide around it. 

• After having dug the soil out of the pit, break down 

the large soil clods and put the soil back to fill the 

pit. 

• You can then push in a small stick (about 1m long) 

into the centre of the pit so that when time for 

planting comes the workers do not only fail to see 

the pits but also be able to plant a seedling at the 

middle of pit. 

• When pitting is complete, a farmer is advised to 

wait until the area has received enough rainfall. 

Unfortunately, the little rain received during this 

period is enough to trigger germination of weeds. 

The best practice for larger growers is to carry out 

a pre-plant weed spray. Alternatively, do manual 

weeding just before planting. Never plant into 

a weedy pit: always keep the 1 m diameter circle 

around the tree free of weeds. 

3.6.5 Pre-plant weed control 

Margaret clearing a 1m diameter circle prior to digging a pit 

• Then dig a pit at the centre of the cleared area 

by enlarging the marked hole. This pit should 

be 30cm (1ft) wide and 30cm (1ft) deep. If the 

soil is hard like on rocky areas, you must still dig 

30cm deep and 30cm wide. In this case, use a 

pick mattock (Ensululu) to penetrate the hard 

soil. Dig the pit from different sides to ensure 

that the hole is as flat and wide at the bottom 

as it is at the top. Note also that 25cm deep and 

25cm wide pit is okay. 

When the area is wet enough for planting, the usual 

activity is to carry out a full cover herbicide weed spray 

of glyphosate to kill all newly germinated and growing 

weeds before tree seedlings are planted (pre-plant weed 

spray). Note that if using chemicals, people must be 

properly trained, well supervised and have appropriate 

protective clothing (refer to SPGS Guideline No.16 

- Safe Use of Glyphosate). After this spray is done 

planting can start the next day to allow seedlings to take 

an early advantage of growing free of weeds for some 

time before the next generation of weeds come up. 

NB: For the case of the communities, you can just cut 

all the vegetation down, either by the use of a hoe or by 

slashing before planting the seedlings. 

4.0 Planting Seedlings 

wide 

This is where seedlings are placed into the dug pits 

and carefully covered with soil. The planting process 

should be done so carefully that seedling roots are not 

bent and is placed to the right depth inside the pit. 

Only healthy and vigorous seedlings must be planted. 

Stressed seedlings should first be allowed to recover 

before planting. Seedlings can be stressed during 

handling and transportation to the planting site. 

An example of a well dug pit 30cm deep and 30cm 

wide with a marking stick put at the centre of pit 

14 



4.1 Seedling handling and 

transportation to the 

planting site 

When conditions are ready for planting, seedlings are 

transported to the plantation site. Depending on the 

care taken while loading, transporting and off loading 

of seedlings, their quality may be affected making them 

stressed or otherwise unfit for planting. 

4.1.1 In which ways can seedling 

quality be affected? 

Seedling quality is usually affected as a result of several 

handlings that occur when seedlings are picked from the 

nursery bed ground while loading them on containers 

then when being transported to the planting site. After 

reaching the site, again in the process of off-loading 

from the transportation containers to the ground some 

seedlings become affected. Generally, the seedlings are 

affected in these ways:- 

• Seedlings losing a lot of soil in their pots thus 

exposing their roots to dry up. 

• Mechanical damage by breaking seedling roots, 

leaves and stems. 

• Drying of seedlings due to long transport 

causing them to become stressed. 

Well packed seedlings on small designed containers like crates ready 

for transportation 

• Seedlings should be watered first before 

transporting to avoid excessive drying and soil 

loss. 

• Transport seedlings in the morning and evening 

to avoid hot day sun shine and shelter them 

from wind. 

• Offload seedlings at the planting site carefully not 

holding by their shoot, watered and temporary 

shaded. After the seedlings have recovered from 

stress which you can tell when their shoots stand 

upright they should be immediately planted. 

A young man off loading pine seedlings: Some seedlings have already lost 

soil and their roots are at a high risk of dying or being bent. 

Seedlings badly placed on the ground and also kept too long unplanted 

4.1.2 How can you minimize 

loss of seedling quality when 

handling them? 

• Seedlings should be packed on small designed 

containers like crates that are later packed on a 

car. If you have no containers yet, please let the 

seedlings be loaded upright on the car but not 

lying. 

4. 2 How to successfully plant a 

tree seedling 

Planting a seedling appears to be a simple process but 

basic mistakes are often made and more attention needs 

to be paid to the operation. Seedlings not planted well 

will grow poorly. For proper planting of a seedling the 

following procedure should be followed:- 

• Remove the stick once used to mark the hole 

during pitting process and dig a small hole 

15 



into the centre of the planting pit. The hole 

should be deep enough to accommodate the 

whole root plug up to 2cm above root collar. 

If the hole is deeper than this then some soil 

should first be put back to reduce the depth so 

as to avoid burying the seedlings. 

• Shallow planting of seedlings is a common 

cause of early seedling deaths so ensure the tree 

is planted deep: it can be planted up to 2 cm 

above the root colar without a problem. 

• Once the hole has been successfully dug, the 

seedling is carefully stripped off its polythene 

bag, say by a razor blade. The polythene bag 

should not be thrown about but be placed on the 

container and later burnt near home. Seedlings 

must not be planted with polythene bags left on 

them as they will later die. 

• Next, hold the seedling in one hand (with its 

root plug lying half way your fingers to safe 

guard tap root) and place vertically into the 

hole deep enough too reach up 2cm above root 

colar level. Planting the seedling up to this level 

ensures that its root system is placed into the 

deeper cooler soil. Also the tree remains firm 

enough to resist wind bending even when the 

soft surface soil around it is washed away by 

rain. 

A seedling is carefully covered with soil and then firmed at its 

sides with hands but not foot 

• The seedling should then be properly firmed by 

palms of two hands ensuring that soil around 

the seedling is in level with the ground to avoid 

water collecting on the seedling. Do not over 

press or stump with your foot on the area closed 

to the seedling stem or heap the soil around the 

tree stem. 

A well planted pine seedling deep enough into 

the soil will be firm on the ground. 

A seedling (15-25cm tall) is carefully placed into the pit deep 

enough to be covered up to 2cm above root collar 

• Loosely cover the seedling with soil up to the 

2cm level above root collar. Remember while 

covering a seedling not to bend any of its bottom 

roots (tap root) that will lead to “J” rooting. 

16 

This pine seedling is not planted deep enough & can 

easily be bent by strong wind or rain. It is also poor 

quality seedling as it lacks a leading stem 


PRODUCTION GRANT SCHEME 

4.3 Beating up 

This is the process of replacing trees that have died 

or are not growing properly. This operation must be 

done within the same rainy season for uniform growth 

of all trees. For E. grandis beating up should be done 

at the end of the second week after planting, whilst 

for pines it should be no more than a month after 

planting (and in the same rainy season). Beating up 

can be minimised or prevented if the farmer carries 

out proper site preparation and planting because the 

survival percentage will be high (above 90%). 

Unfortunately, taungya for many years in Uganda has 

failed to produce good tree plantations, mostly due to 

people not caring for the trees but only for their food 

crops. 

It is necessary to first determine how many trees have 

survived before rushing to beat up. 

If only a few seedlings have died there is no need to 

beat up - after all some of the trees will still be removed 

during the thinning operation later on. To determine the 

survival percentage, one should inspect the plantation 

and make some counts as follows: 

Randomly walk along every 3rd row and count the 1st 

10 planting pits you come across. Record the number of 

both the dead and surviving plants on these 10 planting 

pits. Repeat the same procedure on the next 3rd row 

for at least 5 rows to cover a total of 50 planting pits 

(5x10). Add up the total number of seedlings that 

survived in the 50 planting pits and divide by the total 

planting pits surveyed (i.e.50). Multiply this by 100 to 

get the survival percentage as follows: 

No. of surviving seedlings/50 x 100 = Survival 

Percentage. If the survival percentage is 90% and 

above, do not worry about replacing the dead tress as 

long as the death is not on one location but spread all 

over the site However, if the survival falls within 70%- 

90%, replace the dead ones immediately. Survival of 


5.0 Maintaining Your Trees 

Once your trees have been well established, they must 

be properly maintained to grow well. The important 

management activities for maintaining plantations 

include weeding, pruning, thinning and protection from 

fires, animals and various other threats over their life. 

5.1 Weeding 

This is a regular activity carried out to ensure that trees 

are not competed out by weeds. 

5.1.2 Which methods can you 

use to weed trees? 

There are various ways of weeding as described 

below: 

Clean hoeing 

Hoeing is aimed at physically removing the weeds. All 

the weeds between the tree lines are dug out by hoeing 

and killed while weeds next to the tree are just up 

rooted to avoid damaging roots. This is a recommended 

method of weeding Eucalyptus trees. 

5.1.1 Why is it important to weed 

the trees well? 

To every farmer investing in tree planting as a business, 

you should aim at enabling your trees to grow as fast 

as possible without any competition from weeds. 

Consistent weeding enables trees to mature earlierand 

also to produce high quality trees which are big and 

straightand can be sold to give a high profit. Therefore, 

make sure you keep weeding your trees just like the 

way you do on food crops. Never allow weeds to grow 

more than half of your tree height, if you do, then your 

trees will not grow properly. 

Well weeded eucalypts trees. You can only get good profits from 

eucalypts by maintaining them under zero weeds 

Some trees, like the pines, can tolerate some little 

competition from weeds while others especially 

Eucalyptus is totally unable. 

Poorly weeded eucalyptus trees- No good results from such trees 

Poor weeding regime. Weeds are already taking advantage over 

the trees 

Young trees will grow much more quickly if all the 

weeds are removed by clean hoeing. This method is 

not cost effective (in terms of money and labour) on 

some tree species like pines, which can tolerate some 

competition from weeds. 

It also makes hilly areas prone to soil erosion and 

so farmers should not apply it to weed trees on hills 

instead, a combination of slashing with either spot or 

line weeding is recommended. 

18 



Clean weeding of pine trees like this is the best but may be difficult 

financially on a large scale. 

Spot weeding 

In this method weeds (including food crops) are 

removed from a radius of 0.5m from the base of each 

seedling. 

Charles demonstrating to a farmer how spot hoeing is done 

Good spot hoed pine trees 

Spot weeding is normally carried out with a sharp 

hoe to scrape (do not to dig) the weeds away. Great 

care, however, must be taken in a 10cm radius area 

immediately around the young tree’s stem, where the 

young tree roots can easily be damaged. Put your thumb 

at the bottom of seedling stem and with your first finger 

widely stretched, make an arc round the seedling. Then 

now use your hand to up root all the weeds enclosed 

inside this circle. If a hoe is used instead of a hand, 

seedling roots will be damaged and then they die. It 

is only weeds on the 40cm radius circle that can be 

carefully scrapped off by a hoe. While removing weeds 

by a hoe, it is not advisable to dig deep to loosen the 

soil around the seedling because it disturbs it’s rooting 

system and also exposes the loosened soil into soil 

erosion and more heating. 

Line weeding 

A 1m wide strip along each planting line (0.5m from 

either side of each seedling) is clear weeded using 

hoes. 

All weeds within 10cm radius around the seedling must be constantly 

removed by hand to avoid destroying seedling roots. You can use a 

hoe to scrape off any weeds within the 40cm space. Weeds here should 

always be kept down as they compete directly with seedlings 

An excellent line weeding of young Pinus caribaea trees. Those weeds 

between trees should be kept shorter preferably by slashing or spraying 

19 



If taungya is being practiced, line weeding is usually 

not suitable but rather use spot weeding. 

Slash weeding 

Weeds in the inter row space remaining after spot and/ 

or line weeding can be cleared using sharp slashers. 

This slashing should be down to the ground if it is to 

be effective. Slash weeding and line weeding can be 

done in combination with spot weeding for controlling 

weeds on most trees like pines, Muzizi, Terminalia, 

Teak etc. Eucalypts should mostly be weeded by clean 

hoeing or herbicide spray until the trees themselves 

shade the weeds out. 

choose between weeds and trees. The use of herbicides 

for weed control by communities is discouraged on 

grounds of cost effectiveness and safety. 

5.1.3 Post-establishment 

weeding. 

This is the control of weeds in already grown up trees. 

Usually at about 2 years (Eucalypts) and 3 years (Pines 

etc) the trees will have well established themselves above 

the common grass and legume weeds. Usually at such 

a stage of tree growth, weeds are no longer a threat 

thus do not bother much to keep them weed free. Of 

most importance though is to keep monitoring your 

plantation for aggressive invading species like Lantana, 

Bug weed and Paper mulberry as well as the indigenous 

tree re-growth like Combretum SPP. These types of 

weeds normally form a bush in between trees and 

actively compete with trees and also block your safe 

passage. The growth of these weeds should periodically 

be controlled by chopping, up rooting/digging out or 

spraying with chemical to kill them. Otherwise, there 

should actually be no need to keep slashing short broad 

leaved weeds under grown up pines of 3 years and 

above. 

A good example of combining spot hoeing with slashing in pines. You 

are sure of getting high yields 

Where a farmer opts to grow Eucalypts, clean hoeing 

is a must. Always keep weeds out of competition with 

Eucalypts! Short of this; do not expect any good results 

to your investment. For most other tree species like the 

pines that resist some competition, a combination of 

slashing with either spot hoeing or line weeding can be 

effective but be on frequent basis till canopy closure. 

Herbicide spraying 

This is the most effective method used to weed 

commercial plantations. It is less labour intensive and 

kills weeds well if done by skilled people. Trees must be 

protected because the chemical (glyphosate) does not 

The trees that have already grown up like these no longer need constant 

weeding apart from selective cutting down of regrowing shrubs. 

Now as your well weeded trees continue growing 

faster because weeds are not competing with them, a 

stage reaches when trees themselves start competing 

especially for space and thus important operations of 

pruning and thinning should be done. 

A well sprayed tree plantation like this gives trees a chance to maximize their 

growth rates while still young. 

20 



5.2 Pruning 

Pruning is the removal of the lower branches from 

timber trees mainly to improve on timber quality. 

5.2.1 Why should I prune my 

trees? 

The main purpose is to increase timber quality (get knot 

free timber boards) but also to improve accessibility for 

other activities like thinning and controlling fires. Trees 

grown for fuelwood are normally left to self prune. 

height is. Then cut off the tree branches starting from 

the bottom up to half of the tree height using a curved 

pruning saw (not a panga or axe please). A clean cut 

must be made as close to the tree stem as possible but 

not to peel down the tree. 

Note: all pruned branches must be piled in the middle 

of tree lines and be 5m off any firebreak. Remember 

use of ordinary ladders as is commonly done is unsafe 

to both the tree and a person carrying out the work. 

Any ladder used should be well designed to be firm on 

the ground as well as on the tree. 

You can also use a long pruning saw as shown on the 

photo below. 

PHOTO 25 

Now as your well weeded trees continue growing faster because weeds are not 

competing with them, a stage reaches when trees themselves start competing 

especially for space and thus important operations of pruning and thinning should 

be done. 

A well pruned tree with nice cuts that will easily heal. Pruning 

improves on the quality of timber. 

5.2.2 How is pruning done? 

Pruning is done systematically line per line till the 

whole plantation is covered. Before starting to prune a 

tree, first stand at a distance where you can see its top 

crown. Next judge the point where half of the crown 

5.2 Pruning PHOTO 25 

Now as your well weeded trees continue growing faster because weeds are not 

Pruning 

competing 

is the removal 

with 

of 

them, 

the 

a 

lower 

stage 

branches 

reaches 

from 

when 

timber 

trees themselves 

trees mainly 

start 

to improve 

competing 

on 

timber quality. especially for space and thus important operations of pruning and thinning should 

be done. 

5.2.1 Why should I prune my trees? 

The main purpose is to increase timber quality (get knot free timber boards) but 

5.2 Pruning 

also to improve accessibility for other activities like thinning and controlling fires. 

Pruning is the removal of the lower branches from timber trees mainly to improve on 

timber quality. Trees grown for fuelwood are normally left to self prune. 

PHOTO 5.2.1 Why 26 should I prune my trees? 

When 

5.2.2 The main tree 

How purpose branches 

is pruning is to become increase done? 

too timber long quality to reach (get knot while free standing, timber boards) use a but long 

also 

Pruning pole to to improve 

is cut done branches. accessibility 

systematically Climbing for other activities 

line per on line a tree like 

till the using thinning 

whole a ladder and controlling 

plantation is dangerous fires. 

is covered. 

Trees grown for fuelwood are normally left to self prune. 

Before starting to prune a tree, first stand at a distance where you can see its top 

crown. PHOTO Next 26 judge the point where half of the crown height is. Then cut off the 

tree 5.2.2 branches How is starting pruning from done? the bottom up to half of the tree height using a curved 

Refer 

pruning Pruning to 

saw is done SPGS 

(not systematically a panga 

Pruning 

or axe line please). per Guideline A clean till the cut whole must 

No. 

be plantation made 

27 

as close is for covered. to 

more 

the 

Before starting to prune a tree, first stand at a distance where you can see its top 

details. tree stem as possible but not to peel down the tree. 

crown. Next judge the point where half of the crown height is. Then cut off the 

tree branches starting from the bottom up to half of the tree height using a curved 

PHOTO pruning saw 27 (not a panga or / axe please). PHOTO A clean 28 cut must be made as close to the 

tree stem as possible but not to peel down the tree. 

Table 6 below guides on how and when to prune pine trees. 

PHOTO 27 / PHOTO 28 

Pruning Table type Age Prune to Purpose Method to cut 

1 st 6 below guides on how and when to prune pine trees. 

(Access) 3-4 2m Open access While standing on ground 

Pruning 2 nd type 6-7 Age 4m Prune to Purpose Knot-free timber Method Use extendable to cut pole 

31 rd st (Access) 9-10 3-4 7m 2m Maximise Open access log Use While extendable standing on pole* ground 

2 nd 6-7 4m Knot-free timber Use extendable pole 

quality 

3 

4 th rd 9-10 7m Maximise log Use extendable pole* 

12- 10m Maximise quality log Use extendable pole* 

4 th 12- 13 10m Maximise quality log Use extendable pole* 

13 

quality 

Note: all pruned branches must be piled in the middle of tree lines and be 5m off 

any 

Note: 

firebreak. 

all pruned 

*Remember 

branches must 

use of 

be 

ordinary 

piled in 

ladders 

the middle 

as is 

of 

commonly 

tree lines 

done 

and be 

is 

5m 

unsafe 

off 

any firebreak. *Remember use of ordinary ladders as is commonly done is unsafe 

to to both both the the tree tree and and a person person carrying carrying out out the the work. work. Any Any ladder ladder used used should should be be 

well designed to be firm on the ground as well as on the tree. 

PHOTO 29 

Refer to SPGS Pruning Guideline No. 27 for more details. 

NB1. Timing depends on growth rate of trees not the age. 

NB1. 

NB2. 

Timing 

Pruning 

depends 

will have 

on 

to 

growth 

be done 

rate 

much 

of trees 

earlier 

not 

with 

the age. 

Eucalypts grown for timber. 

NB2. Pruning will have to be done much earlier with Eucalypts grown for timber. 

NB1. Timing depends on growth rate of trees not 

the age. 

An example of bad cuts while pruning. Long 

branches left on the stem will later dry and 

form dead knots. These knots can come out 

leaving holes on timber surface 

NB2. Pruning will have to be done much earlier 23 

with Eucalypts grown for timber. 

21 


23


5.3 Thinning 

This is an operation deliberately carried out at different 

stages of tree growth by selecting and removing some 

of the living trees from a given plantation stand before 

the final clear cutting. 

5.3.1 Why should I thin my 

trees? 

As trees grow, they start competing with one another 

for light, nutrients, water and space thereby making 

them grow abnormally. Therefore, some of the trees 

in the plantation life span should be systematically 

removed (whether good or not) in order to reduce 

the competition between the trees. This allows the 

best remaining trees to grow faster and larger, thus 

increasing the value of your plantation. 

5.3.2 When should thinning 

be done? 

5.3 Thinning 

This is an operation deliberately carried out at different stages of tree growth by selecting 

and removing some of the living trees from a given plantation stand before the final clear 

cutting. 

Generally 5.3.1 Why should it depends I thin my on trees? tree species, its growth rate and 

extent of maintenance. Thus like pruning, there is no 

compulsory time for thinning plantations but it should 

be done before competition (crowns and branches start 

trees grow faster and larger, thus increasing the value of your plantation. 

touching) begins. It is advisable to do first thinning 

only 5.3.2 after When first should pruning thinning be for done? clear view of trees and safe 

passage. The rest of the thinning operations can be 

done before pruning to save money from pruning trees 

that are after all going to be thinned out. 

As trees grow, they start competing with one another for light, nutrients, water 

and space thereby making them grow abnormally. Therefore, some of the trees in 

the plantation life span should be systematically removed (whether good or not) in 

order to reduce the competition between the trees. This allows the best remaining 

Generally it depends on tree species, its growth rate and extent of maintenance. 

Thus like pruning, there is no compulsory time for thinning plantations but it 

should be done before competition (crowns and branches start touching) begins. 

It is advisable to do first thinning only after first pruning for clear view of trees 

and safe passage. The rest of the thinning operations can be done before pruning 

to save money from pruning trees that are after all going to be thinned out. 

Table 7 below shows the suggested thinning type, age 

and for a pine number plantation. of stems left for a pine plantation. 

Table 7 below shows the suggested thinning type, age and number of stems left 

Thinning type Age (years) Stems left 

1 st 5 to 7 750 

2 nd 7 to 10 500 

3 rd 10 to 14 250 to 350 

This means at any tree spacing used, e.g. 3mx3m where 

there are 1,111 trees/ha, the number of trees to be 

removed per ha at first thinning would be (1,111-750) 

years. 

361. In the 2nd thinning it would be (750-500) 250 and 

at 5.3.3 3rd What thinning are the steps you taken remove during (500-350) a thinning operation? 150 to leave you 

with described 350 below: trees per ha for final clear cutting at 18-25 

years. Each thining operation requires that you follow 

1) What is the appropriate thinning plot size? 

some important steps for success. 

This means at any tree spacing used, e.g. 3mx3m where there are 1,111 trees/ha, 

the number of trees to be removed per ha at first thinning would be (1,111-750) 

361. In the 2 nd thinning it would be (750-500) 250 and at 3 rd thinning you remove 

(500-350) 150 to leave you with 350 trees per ha for final clear cutting at 18-25 

In order to successfully carry out thinning of your trees, please follow steps (1-5) 

This depends on the spacing of trees. For example the thinning plot could be one 

of 5 trees by 5 or 10 trees by 10 trees. For 5 trees by 5 trees area it gives a 

thinning plot size of 15m x 15m (225m 2 ) when your spacing is 3m x 3m. 

5.3.3 2) How many What of these plots are (225m 2) the are in one steps hectare? taken 

As one hectare is 10,000m 

during a 2 , this gives (10,000m 

thinning 2 ÷ 225m 

operation? 

2 ) 44 plots. 

3) How many trees do I need to leave on each hectare after first thinning? 

An example of a well thinned stand like this will allow trees to 

quickly gain more volume 

This 2-year old plantation of E. grandis is for fuelwood (James Finlay 

Ltd.) and thus has many trees per hectare (i.e. high stocking): if 

grown for sawlogs, it would have to be thinned to give the best trees 

more growing space. 

In order to successfully carry out thinning of your trees, 

please follow steps (1-5) described below: 

1) What is the appropriate thinning plot size? 

This depends on the spacing of trees. For example 

the thinning plot could be one of 5 trees by 5 or 10 

trees by 10 trees. For 5 trees by 5 trees area it gives 

a thinning plot size of 15m x 15m (225m 2 ) when 

your spacing is 3m x 3m. 

2) How many of these plots (225m 2 ) are in one 

hectare? 

As one hectare is 10,000m 2 , this gives (10,000m 2 ÷ 

225m 2 ) 44 plots. 

3) How many trees do I need to leave on each hectare 

after first thinning? 

For our example of table 7 above, it is 750 stems 

per hectare 

4) How many trees should I leave on each plot after 

thinning? 

Number of trees to be left on each plot = 750 ÷ 

44=17trees 

5) Therefore, how many trees should I thin out 

(remove) from each thinning plot? 

22 


24


Since your thinning plot has a total of 25 trees (5 

trees x 5 trees), you should cut off 8 trees so as to 

leave 17 trees needed per plot. 

NB1. The 8 trees to be removed also include empty holes 

(where trees died), bent trees, tree with branched tops in 

form of letter “Y” or any poor growing tree. Note that 

whether all trees are good the thinning should still be 

carried out to create more space within the remaining 

trees. 

The trees fit to be removed by thinning are (2) one – sided crown, 

(3) bole (trunk) deformed, (5) forked stem, (6) overtopped tree, (8) 

crooked stem, and (11) very small tree next to larger ones. 

NB2. If thinning is being carried out for sale the 

operation should be closely supervised to ensure that 

bigger trees do not end up being cut as a priority for sale. 

In this case, the objective of thinning as recommended 

in forestry will have changed. 

lose part or all of your year’s investment in one hour! 

To minimize fire risk on your plantation, observe the 

following fire protection measures: 

Firebreaks: These can be internal or external depending 

on size of your land. For community woodlots of 1-5 

acres, an external open area of at least 5m wide should be 

kept open around the trees. If the woodlot is bordered 

by gardens of food crops, then ensure that after their 

harvesting, the drying food crop remains should be 

removed 5m away from the trees. This strip of area 

should be kept open through slashing or hoeing before 

each dry season (June-August and December-Feb on 

average) until rains come back. As your plantation 

expands, internal firebreaks need to be included. 

Careful burning of crop gardens: While clearing adjacent 

land for food crops, make sure the rubbish is heaped and 

burnt in the middle of garden. Burning should be done 

during cool non windy conditions and should be closely 

supervised until you are sure the fire is completely dead 

before leaving the area. 

Timely weeding: Make sure that all your trees are well 

weeded during the rainy season such that in the dry 

season, there are no tall dry weeds that easily catch fire 

to burn your trees. 

More wide information concerning thinning can be 

found on SPGS Thinning Guideline No. 26. 

6.0 Protecting Your Trees 

Just like any other investment, you have to protect your 

trees until the recommended time to harvest or sell 

them arrives. Normally, trees are protected from fires, 

pests, diseases and animals. 

6.1 How do I protect my 

plantation from fire? 

Tree left to grow with a drying weeds like these do have a 

higher chance of being burnt down during the dry season 

A plantation with a good fire break between blocks 

Fire is one of the worst enemies of your trees. If you do 

not care to protect your plantation from fire you could 

Good relationships: Ensure you have good relations 

with your neighbours so they do not set your plantation 

on fire and can also be of assistance when called upon 

to help put off fire. 

NOTE: Get more information on Forest Fire Protection 

from Guideline No. 18. 

23 Community Tree Planting Guideline



plantation from pests and 

diseases? 

Although there is no much threat so far regarding pests 

and diseases on trees being planted, it is important 

for the farmer to be vigilant about the health of their 

trees. You may not have the technical knowledge of 

controlling pests and diseases but you can contribute a 

lot towards the protection of your trees by periodically 

inspecting your trees checking on changes on the normal 

colour and health of leaves and stems. For instance 

when your tree leaves and branches start drying from 

top down wards that is commonly a sign of disease or 

pest attack. 


plantation from animals? 

Because it is your investment worth of millions, the 

farmer must protect the woodlot from browsing cattle, 

goats and other wild animals like antelopes, monkeys 

and bushbucks. These prefer shoots of young seedlings. 

They can also damage seedlings by stepping on them. 

Wild animals need to be constantly scared away, and 

clear any hiding places for them. 

Make sure you regularly inspect your plantation to check 

the above. 

Eucalyptus tree attacked by Blue gum Chalcid wasp 

For the case of Chalcid attack that is much worse where 

the trees are stressed like on poorly weeded trees or on 

those planted off-site in swamps or in rocky, infertile 

soils, the advice is to plant Eucalyptus on the right site 

and keep off weeds. 

For the case of termite attack you may notice some trees 

drying up and when you up root, you find its root system 

is already eaten off. For this case the first suspects are 

termites. If the area has many termite mounds then you 

have a higher risk of termite damage. Some farmers are 

using Dursban and Furadan to control termites but for 

their proper use, please seek professional advice. Always 

make sure your trees are growing vigorously by weeding 

them well and promptly. Report any strange occurrence 

of either a disease or pest on your plantation to an 

appropriate authority. These could be District Forest 

Officers, National Forest Authority, SPGS and Forest 

Research Institute. 

The unwanted visitors! Cattle like goats and other animals should be 

kept out of tree plantations because they eat the young trees 

Talk to your neighbour about his/her wondering cattle 

or goats and if problem continues report to LCs and get 

a lasting solution. Otherwise a charge per tree destroyed 

may be calculated based on its replacement value plus 

compound interest depending on the number of years 

the tree has spent. 

7.0 Harvesting And 

Replanting Tree 

Plantations 

Harvesting is the cutting of only mature blocks of 

trees when the best market for their sales exists. It is 

advisable to cut trees block by block as they mature 

depending on when they were planted. Remember that 

the most common rotation for trees is when they reach 

market size and not necessarily maturity. An appropriate 

harvesting system has to be designed according to the 

nature of the area of your plantation. 

24 



7.1 What is the best time for 

cutting (selling) your trees? 

For Pinus caribaea, the recommended time is from 18- 

25 years. For other tree species, pleases refer to table 2 

(page 8). Your trees are like money put in bank to gain 

interest so that at some time in future you get more 

than the amount you banked. Likewise, as your trees 

grow each passing year, they keep on gaining more size 

(volume) until the recommended time of cutting them 

reaches. You get more money from a bigger tree. 

7.2 Why is it not advisable to 

cut/sell your trees too early or 

too late after maturity? 

It is not advisable to harvest trees before the 

recommended time, because they are still small in size 

(volume) yet are still actively putting on volume. More 

so, the wood itself is not mature enough to attract better 

price. On another hand, allowing trees to grow beyond 

the recommended time of harvesting (after maturity) 

is not good unless its a tactic to delay for best market, 

otherwise trees by this time are no longer growing 

actively and some may start dying of old age yet you 

still spend money to protect them. 

However, the most important point to note is that, you 

can sell your trees at any stage of their growth provided 

there is the best market offer for them. But you have to 

be careful of the fact that the best value of your trees is 

from big saw logs! 

7.3 Replanting of felled tree 

plantations 

After a given block is harvested, it should be immediately 

prepared for replanting in the forth coming rain season 

when is still free of weeds. Many of the trees like pines, 

musizi, or Terminalia are commonly propagated by seed. 

For most Eucalypts and teak that develop stems from cut 

stumps after harvesting, this re-growth (coppices) can 

only be used for fuelwood and small poles plantations. 

Eucalypt plantations that have been grown for timber or 

large poles must be replanted after harvesting and the 

coppice re-growth should be frequently cut or sprayed 

until they die off. The replanting is necessary because 

many of the trees will have been cut down at various 

stages of thinning and any re-growth from such stumps 

will have been suppressed by shade from the remaining 

trees leading to less stocking.– refer to Guidelines No. 

9,10 & 21 on growing eucalypts. 

8.0 Plantation Record 

Keeping 

There are some records that are particularly important 

for a tree farmer to safely keep for accountability and for 

future reference. Such records among others include: 

1) Nursery records 

Information on tree species, seed origin, date sown, 

amount sown etc. 

2) Plantation compartments records like; 

• Compartment identity (Name or number etc) 

• Compartment size 

• Planting details (tree species, date planted, 

spacing, survival etc) 

• Weeding status 

• Pruning plan 

• Thinning plan 

• harvesting plan 

3) Pest, disease and fire outbreaks 

4) Tools and equipment stores 

5) Expenditure and revenue 

6) Weather records (Only for commercial 

planters) and 

7) Map (s) of the area. 

However, for the community planters, the above records 

are not necessary. Only an activity register showing what 

is planned to be done and what has been completed is 

enough. The time when each activity is done should be 

recorded. For instance when you planted your trees. 

25 Community Tree Planting Guideline


APPENDIX 1 

SPGS COMMERCIAL AND COMMUNITY SUPPORT 

What is SPGS? 

The Sawlog Production Grant Scheme (SPGS) is a European Union funded programme that aims to promote 

private investment in timber production in Uganda. The SPGS started in 2003 and in just four years has subsidized 

around 7,500 hectares of commercial plantations throughout the country: this includes small community-based, 

tree planting associations up to large-scale commercial plantations. The current project runs until the end of 

2008. 

What is SPGS commercial support? 

This is a kind of support where private timber growers planting from 25 ha to 500 ha are provided with a subsidy 

of UG Shs. 600,000/= (Six hundred thousand shillings only) per hectare of well planted and managed trees. 

The land for planting can either be private or government land (CFR) as long as there is proof of ownership. 

(More details on investing in commercial timber production and SPGS can be got from Guidelines number 1 & 

2 respectively). 

What is SPGS community support? 

This is a support given to individuals in a community that may not have big chunks of land but are interested in 

tree planting business. There are two types of such communities; 

a) Where the individuals in community have reasonably larger areas of land that can collectively add up to at least 

25 ha, they are also encouraged to apply to the SPGS for the planting subsidy as a legally registered group. One 

excellent example of where this is working extremely well is Kamusiime Memorial Rural Development Association 

in the hills of Bushenyi, western Uganda. They are a group of 22 landowners who applied formally to the SPGS 

in 2003, having pooled their land to make a total of 100 ha. By the end of 2006, Kamusiime had planted all 100 

ha with Pinus caribaea var. hondurensis – a species well suited to the hills there. Do not forget that SPGS payment is 

only made after you have planted trees and weeded them well. So you need a start-up capital for buying seed and 

planting. 

b) For the rural poor communities that have smaller pieces of land (up to 5ha) the project’s approach is slightly 

different. In this case, SPGS support is not a subsidy but is mainly by providing high quality seedlings and technical 

advice throughout the establishment period. The community contributes by preparing the area for planting well, 

planting all given seedlings immediately and thereafter promptly weed and protect trees. 

Preference will be given to communities that are registered organisations or associations living adjacent to either 

natural high forests or commercial tree plantations. A community that can be supported by SPGS should bare the 

following: 

• Be committed to tree planting according to SPGS standards 

• Have members preferably located within a single village for easy mobilisation and monitoring. 

• Have 20 interested members as a minimum 

• The minimum area supported for each member is one acre and maximum is 5 acres. This land can be 

private or on Central Forest Reserves. 

Any community which meets the above conditions can then apply in writing indicating within the application the 

following: 

• Clear administrative structure (showing names and titles of leaders) 

• The names of all community members 

• The area/size of land for each member 

• Estimated number of seedlings required by each member 

• If the community is legally registered, a copy of the registration certificate and a constitution should be 

attached. 

• Communities which are not legally registered are encouraged to constitute themselves into formal 

associations with elected leaders. 

• Provide both proper physical address (village, parish, sub-county, county and district names) and contact 

address showing; Post office number and at least two Telephone contacts, as well as e- mail or fax number 

if available. 

Once the application letter has been received, it will be studied and a formal reply sent to the community. This is 

then followed by a visit by SPGS team to appraise and train the community on tree planting standards. Following 

this appraisal as well as office evaluation, a community is finally informed whether it is successful or not. Successful 

communities are then supplied with seedlings at the beginning of the forth coming rain season. Note that once 

SPGS has committed itself to support a given community, it will continue to do so for as long as that community 

keeps up with the tree-planting standards described in this guideline. 

NOTE: SPGS further community support beyond this phase is subject to the availability of more funds. 

26 



APPENDIX 2 

SPGS PLANTATION GUIDELINES* 

1. Investing in Commercial Tree Plantations in Uganda: 

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ). 

2. The Sawlog Production Grant Scheme: FAQ. (Version 3). 

3. Planning for Successful Plantation Development. 

4. Productivity and Costs of Plantation Development in Uganda. 

5. Species Choice for Commercial Timber Plantations in Uganda. 

6. Site Species Matching for Timber Plantations in Uganda. 

7. Key Nursery Practices. 

8. Tree Seed in Commercial Plantations in Uganda. 

9. Growing Eucalypts for Fuelwood and Poles. 

10. Growing Eucalypts for Timber and Large Poles. 

11. Growing Musizi for Timber. 

12. Growing Pines for Timber. 

13. Other Species for Timber Production in Uganda. 

14. Land Preparation. 

15. Post-Plant Weed Control. 

16. Safe Use of Glyphosate Herbicide. Revised ‘05. 

17. Post-Plant use of Herbicide. 

18. Fire Protection (v.3). 

19. Common Pests and Diseases of Tree Plantations. 

20. Protection from Animals. 

21. Managing Eucalyptus Coppice. 

22. Eucalyptus and the Environment. 

23. Basic Tree Measurement & Sample Plots. 

24. The Use of Taungya for Plantation Establishment. 

25. Techniques for Planting and Beating-Up. 

26. Thinning Plantations to Maximize Sawlog Production. 

27. Pruning for High Quality Timber. 

28. Common Weeds in Ugandan Plantations. 

29. Utilizing Eucalyptus Timber. 

30. Forest Certification: Key Issues & Implications for Uganda. 

*Available from SPGS (See back page) 

27 


A valuable, mature pine plantation in South Africa: 

The result of using good seed, establishing well and then thinning and pruning on time. 

A 4-year old Pinus caribaea var. hondurensis (PCH) stand at Kasagala Forest Reserve, Nakasongola. The seed was from 

Australian seed orchards and the stand had recently been 1st pruned to 2 metres height. 

Thinning will be needed in the next year or so. 

SPGS Contact details: 

Plot 92 Luthuli Avenue Bugolobi, Kampala, 

Email: info@sawlog.ug Tel. 0312 265332/3 Website: www.sawlog.ug

COMMUNITY TREE PLANTING GUIDELINE - SPGS

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