6 GLOSSARY Basic data <strong>Albania</strong>’s population is 3,619,778 (July 2008 estimate). Apart from <strong>Albania</strong>ns liv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>Albania</strong> proper, there are more than two million ethnic <strong>Albania</strong>ns <strong>in</strong> Kosovo, hundreds of thousands <strong>in</strong> Macedonia and Montenegro, and an estimated two million <strong>in</strong> the United States, Switzerland, Germany, Greece, Italy and Canada. Although <strong>Albania</strong> is often touted as a majority Muslim country <strong>in</strong> the foreign press, 70% of the population is estimated to be nonreligious or non-practic<strong>in</strong>g. Of the others, 21% is Muslim, 6% is Orthodox, and 3% is Catholic. Tirana officially has 750,000 <strong>in</strong>habitants (though the real number may be much higher), covers 42 square kilometres and lies at 110m above sea level, though two mounta<strong>in</strong>s of 1612m and 1828m also lie with<strong>in</strong> the municipality. The city has 31,000 students (2004-2005), of which 13,300 attend the University of Tirana. Some 16900 companies are registered <strong>in</strong> the city (2006). Unemployment <strong>in</strong> Tirana is officially 7,6% (2004) with 214,019 of a total active force of 231,556 people at work. 25% is employed <strong>in</strong> the state sector, 56% <strong>in</strong> the private sector and 18% <strong>in</strong> agriculture. Some 41% of people <strong>in</strong> Tirana go to work on foot, 39% uses public transport, 9% by (motor)bike and 26% by car. There are 98,204 pensioners <strong>in</strong> the city. Geography At 28.748 square kilometres, <strong>Albania</strong> is a bit larger than Wales or Maryland. The longest rivers are the Dr<strong>in</strong>i, Semani and Vjosa. The largest lakes are Shkodra, Ohrid and Prespa. The highest mounta<strong>in</strong> is Mt. Korabi near Peshkopi, at 2751m. Local time <strong>Albania</strong> is <strong>in</strong> the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1). Dur<strong>in</strong>g daylight sav<strong>in</strong>gs time (end of April to end of October), the time is GMT+2. When it is noon <strong>in</strong> <strong>Albania</strong>, it is 06:00 <strong>in</strong> New York, 11:00 In London and 12:00 <strong>in</strong> Berl<strong>in</strong>. An alphabetical list<strong>in</strong>g of seem<strong>in</strong>gly random useful facts for the traveller. Body language & Sounds <strong>Albania</strong>ns, like Bulgarians, Turks, Indians and a handful of others, shake (or perhaps: wobble) their heads to mean ‘yes’ and nod (or rather jerk the head backwards while emitt<strong>in</strong>g a bold cluck) to mean ‘no’. Every time you see it done, it’s a pleasant little culture shock. To attract attention, <strong>Albania</strong>ns cluck, hiss, or <strong>in</strong> more desperate cases honk madly or emigrate to Italy. City names You’ll f<strong>in</strong>d that names of cities (and, for that matter, all other nouns) have two different end<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong> <strong>Albania</strong>n. One is def<strong>in</strong>ite (Tiranë and Shkodër for <strong>in</strong>stance), the other is <strong>in</strong>def<strong>in</strong>ite (Tirana and Shkodra). Even when the names appear <strong>in</strong> English text, translators don’t agree on which version to use. Don’t let this throw you. Crime & Safety The well-be<strong>in</strong>g of honoured guests (you) is a major source of concern and pride for the locals - a tradition dat<strong>in</strong>g back to Illyrian times. Rather than be<strong>in</strong>g mugged <strong>in</strong> <strong>Albania</strong>, you’re Tirana In Your Pocket Climate Tirana is hot and dry <strong>in</strong> summer, and cool and wet (but rarely cold) <strong>in</strong> w<strong>in</strong>ter. The graph below shows the average maximum daily temperature and the average precipitation. Average temperatures <strong>in</strong> Tirana vary between 5 and 26°C, with measured extremes at -22 and 43°C. There are 2600 sun hours per year. The average annual ra<strong>in</strong>fall is 1700mm, and snow usually doesn’t stay on the ground for more than a week each w<strong>in</strong>ter. ra<strong>in</strong>fall (mm) 250 200 150 100 50 0 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec ra<strong>in</strong>fall average daily temp. (max) average daily temp. (m<strong>in</strong>) more likely to be overwhelmed with hospitality. Still, the same rules for personal safety that you follow elsewhere <strong>in</strong> the world also apply <strong>in</strong> <strong>Albania</strong>. Stay alert at all times, hide valuables or leave them at home, don’t wander around unlit alleys at night. Br<strong>in</strong>g a torch as even <strong>in</strong> cities it can be pitch dark at night away from the ma<strong>in</strong> streets. Customs Customs <strong>in</strong>spection is usually cursory, unless you’re carry<strong>in</strong>g loads of electronic goods. Personal items are not subject to customs fees. Special export permits are required for precious metals and antiques, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g co<strong>in</strong>s, books and artwork. Travellers may import the follow<strong>in</strong>g products tax free. Tobacco: 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos, or 50 cigars or 250gr tobacco; alcohol (if over 18): 1 litre of spirits or strong liquors (over 22% volume) and 2 litres of distilled dr<strong>in</strong>ks (under 22% volume) and two litres of w<strong>in</strong>e; 50g of perfume; any medical products for personal use; goods and gifts up to a value of 30,000 lek. Driv<strong>in</strong>g & Roads The roads may be improv<strong>in</strong>g rapidly, <strong>Albania</strong>ns rema<strong>in</strong> the worst drivers <strong>in</strong> Europe. Easily distracted, always on the phone, eager to honk, unaware of speed limits, ignorant about seatbelts and <strong>in</strong>considerate to other road users, they overtake <strong>in</strong> corners at high speeds <strong>in</strong> their Mercedes as if they were still rid<strong>in</strong>g donkeys. That said, city-centre traffic usually only crawls along with little risk of damage. Before 1991, only Party officials were allowed to own and drive around <strong>in</strong> cars and there were only about 600 cars <strong>in</strong> <strong>Albania</strong>, many of them deluxe Mercedes and Volvos. When the restriction was lifted, <strong>Albania</strong>ns brought thousands of cars <strong>in</strong>to the country from Germany, Italy and Greece. At the time, there were no traffic regulations, no driver’s license requirements, no traffic enforcement and no traffic lights. Much of this has changed thankfully, but driv<strong>in</strong>g still requires nerves of steel, <strong>Albania</strong>n driv<strong>in</strong>g skills and a good map. The maximum speed is 40km/hr <strong>in</strong> urban areas and villages, 80km/hr outside these areas, 90km/hr on dual carriageways and 110km/hr on highways. Drivers should have a fire ext<strong>in</strong>guisher, yellow vest and first aid kit <strong>in</strong> the car, and always drive with the lights on. In mounta<strong>in</strong> areas snow cha<strong>in</strong>s are a good idea <strong>in</strong> w<strong>in</strong>ter. 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 temperature (°C) Electricity When it works, electrical current is 220 Volts; you’ll need standard European plugs. Power cuts are notoriously frequent <strong>in</strong> <strong>Albania</strong>, even <strong>in</strong> central Tirana, and it often depends on the season (more <strong>in</strong> w<strong>in</strong>ter) and which area of the city you are <strong>in</strong> (for a more reliable supply, try to f<strong>in</strong>d out where the politicians have their apartments). Health Although the locals say the water is safe to dr<strong>in</strong>k, it’s probably best to stick to bottled water, which is readily available. <strong>Albania</strong>n cities can be very dusty, so contact-lens wearers should carry eye drops with them or consider wear<strong>in</strong>g glasses. Travellers should beware of holes or bits of metal stick<strong>in</strong>g out of the pavement, miss<strong>in</strong>g sewer lids and bad driv<strong>in</strong>g. Piles of garbage attract stray dogs at night. Up-to-date tetanus and hepatitis-B <strong>in</strong>oculations are recommended if you want to play it safe and are stay<strong>in</strong>g some length of time <strong>in</strong> <strong>Albania</strong>, particularly rural areas. In case of problems, see the list of cl<strong>in</strong>ics <strong>in</strong> the directory. Gett<strong>in</strong>g health <strong>in</strong>surance that covers an airlift to another country <strong>in</strong> case of serious problems is a good idea. Money The <strong>Albania</strong>n currency is the lek (plural leke). The exchange rate is: €1 = 122 lek, £1 = 153 lek, US$1 = 87 lek (September 2008). Banknotes come <strong>in</strong> denom<strong>in</strong>ations of 100, 200, 500, 1000 and 5000 lek, while there are co<strong>in</strong>s of 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 lek. Although hotels and some other services quote prices <strong>in</strong> foreign currency, payment is nearly always made <strong>in</strong> lek. If payment <strong>in</strong> foreign currency is possible, it usually means you’re gett<strong>in</strong>g a bad rate so don’t fall for it. <strong>Albania</strong> was the last country <strong>in</strong> Europe to have ATMs (bankomats) connected to the <strong>in</strong>ternational grid, but nowadays gett<strong>in</strong>g cash us<strong>in</strong>g your debit or credit card is no problem. <strong>Albania</strong>n ATMs do not charge for transactions, though your home bank may. If you <strong>in</strong>sist on br<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g along cash foreign currency, you can change your euros or dollars at banks and (better) at exchange offices <strong>in</strong> town (see the directory). People who still believe <strong>in</strong> travellers’ cheques can cash them at most banks at a fee. F<strong>in</strong>ally, the money men wav<strong>in</strong>g wads of banknotes outside the ma<strong>in</strong> mosque offer competitive rates and are generally honest, but it’s always wise to ask the exchange rate and carefully count and exam<strong>in</strong>e the lek they give you. Scams Travellers should always beware of pickpockets, particularly <strong>in</strong> large crowds or on buses. Young boys may offer to sell you cell cards and telephones, probably stolen goods. Gold for sale on the streets is also probably stolen or fake. Taxi drivers are usually honest; however, it’s always a good idea to have the hotel or restaurant phone a reliable taxi from the list on p.35, or negotiate a fare before gett<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the car. Smok<strong>in</strong>g Smok<strong>in</strong>g is officially prohibited <strong>in</strong> public places s<strong>in</strong>ce 2007, though the cha<strong>in</strong>-smok<strong>in</strong>g policemen do little to enforce the law. In case one of them does get to work and catches you, expect a f<strong>in</strong>e up to 50.000 lek. Street smarts Here’s a typical <strong>Albania</strong>n address: Rr. Sami Frashëri, Pall. 20/1, Shk. 1, Ap. 8. And here’s how to decipher it: Rr. means rruga, or street; Sheshi is square. The abbreviation ‘P’ or ‘Pall.’ stands for pallati (build<strong>in</strong>g, or block of flats). ‘Shk.’ stands for shkallë (‘entrance’ GLOSSARY - s<strong>in</strong>ce there is often more than one), and ‘Ap.’ means apartment. Unfortunately for guidebook writers and other foreigners, <strong>Albania</strong>n addresses often do not <strong>in</strong>clude street numbers. Instead, a close landmark (like a build<strong>in</strong>g, school, m<strong>in</strong>istry, statue, etc) is mentioned for reference, prefaced by pranë (‘near’), or përballë (‘<strong>in</strong> front of). Even if the landmark is long gone, <strong>Albania</strong>ns will still refer to that us<strong>in</strong>g ‘ish’ (former). The medieval logic beh<strong>in</strong>d this is that the locals know where it is and you can ask them, so why bother pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g an ugly number on a build<strong>in</strong>g when you can sit down and have a nice cup of coffee <strong>in</strong>stead? In this guide we mention these landmarks where necessary, and together with our map references we hope you’ll f<strong>in</strong>d your dest<strong>in</strong>ation somehow. Street terms you may encounter: blloku = block of flats bulevardi = boulevard qëndra = center rruga = street sheshi = square urë = bridge Tipp<strong>in</strong>g It’s customary to tip about 10% or round up to the nearest lek note at restaurants and bars, and to negotiate the f<strong>in</strong>al price <strong>in</strong> advance <strong>in</strong> taxis. At restaurants the tip is usually given directly to the waiter upon pay<strong>in</strong>g, rather than left on the table. Visas Citizens of the EU, most other European countries, US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and Japan can enter <strong>Albania</strong> without a visa, though there is a €10 entry tax charged on arrival at the airport, or €1 at the harbours and land borders. Citizens of Poland and the Czech Republic enter for free. Pay the fee <strong>in</strong> cash euros, though pounds and US dollars are sometimes grumpily accepted too. Citizens of the European m<strong>in</strong>istates, Montenegro, Macedonia, Israel, S<strong>in</strong>gapore and South Korea can purchase their visa at the border. Travellers of most other nationalities need to get a visa from an <strong>Albania</strong>n embassy or consulate abroad before travell<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>Albania</strong>. Before you set off, confirm your entry requirements at the nearest <strong>Albania</strong>n embassy or consulate. Check all border requirements at www.mfa.gov.al. Further read<strong>in</strong>g UK guidebook publisher Bradt is known for go<strong>in</strong>g to places beyond the reach of ma<strong>in</strong>stream publishers and its <strong>Albania</strong> guide, written with dedication by a former Tirana expat, is no exception. The newly updated <strong>Albania</strong> book has <strong>in</strong>-depth <strong>in</strong>formation about cities, towns and other sights across the country. The third edition of the guide is a marked improvement from earlier editions, with more pages, useful maps, and more details on excursions both on and well off the beaten track. The fact rema<strong>in</strong>s that few publications can keep pace with <strong>Albania</strong>’s frantic development – so always ask for new restaurants and hotels when travell<strong>in</strong>g around. Bradt <strong>Albania</strong>, by Gillian Gloyer. Third edition, May 2008, ISBN 9781841622460. For sale <strong>in</strong> Tirana’s ma<strong>in</strong> bookstores and www.bradtguides.com. Autumn - W<strong>in</strong>ter 2008 - 2009 7