22.04.2015 Views

View the 2013 56-page PDF here - Friends School Plant Sale

View the 2013 56-page PDF here - Friends School Plant Sale

View the 2013 56-page PDF here - Friends School Plant Sale

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

www.<strong>Friends</strong><strong>School</strong><strong>Plant</strong><strong>Sale</strong>.com May 10–12, <strong>2013</strong> • <strong>Friends</strong> <strong>School</strong> <strong>Plant</strong> <strong>Sale</strong> 29<br />

What has gone wrong?<br />

Over <strong>the</strong> last 50 years, almost every change we have made as a<br />

society to how we live and how we farm has been unfriendly to bees.<br />

We have more concrete, more lawns, more pesticides, and more giant<br />

farms growing corn and soybeans. We have fewer weeds and fewer<br />

flowers. As individuals who care about <strong>the</strong> health of bees, <strong>the</strong>re are<br />

some things we can’t do much about (bee diseases, bee genetics) but<br />

as gardeners we have a powerful tool: that little piece of ground we<br />

call our own back yard. Make some simple changes, and <strong>the</strong>n persuade<br />

your neighbor and <strong>the</strong>ir neighbor to do <strong>the</strong> same. It will make<br />

a difference.<br />

What you can do<br />

Minimize your pesticide use. Learn to accept imperfection. Hand<br />

pull unwanted plants. Think of <strong>the</strong> “weeds” in your lawn (clover,<br />

chickweed, violets) as “grass companions.” Read about integrated<br />

pest management.<br />

<strong>Plant</strong> flowers that appeal to bees:<br />

flowers with landing platforms, single<br />

flowers, particularly in white, yellow, or<br />

blue. (Bees see in <strong>the</strong> ultraviolet range,<br />

which means <strong>the</strong>y don’t see red.) Be<br />

slow to deadhead because fading blooms<br />

still have nectar. <strong>Plant</strong> in clumps.<br />

<strong>Plant</strong> natives. This is an important<br />

one. Studies of bumble bees show that Native New England asters<br />

provide single flowers, visible<br />

<strong>the</strong>y prefer natives 4:1 over introduced color, a landing deck, and a lateseason<br />

nectar source for<br />

plants. Dense stands of native flowers<br />

honeybees like this one.<br />

give “more bang for <strong>the</strong> buzz.”<br />

<strong>Plant</strong> for succession (this is good for you as well as <strong>the</strong> bees). Try<br />

to have at least three things flowering in your garden at all times;<br />

critical times are early spring and late fall, think squill and crocuses,<br />

goldenrod and asters. Plan your yard vertically (canopy, understory,<br />

shrubs, ground layer) to fit in more plants. Reduce or get rid of your<br />

lawn.<br />

Include some nesting space for wild<br />

bees. Sixty to seventy percent are<br />

ground nesters; just leave an area of<br />

exposed, undisturbed soil. No mulch,<br />

sorry. Thirty to forty percent of native<br />

bees are cavity nesters; except for <strong>the</strong><br />

carpenter bees, native bees can’t excavate<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir own holes, so <strong>the</strong>y need ready-<br />

lengths can be grouped to create<br />

Bamboo sticks cut to short<br />

made tunnels. Consider a bee house a bee nest.<br />

made of ei<strong>the</strong>r an untreated, drilled wood<br />

block or hollow sticks. Leave rotting dead wood in your yard.<br />

Read. Educate yourself. Educate your neighbor (if your neighbor<br />

is using pesticides, <strong>the</strong>y’re ending up in your yard).<br />

Consider becoming a beekeeper. Really, why not? Find information<br />

at www.beesquad.umn.edu.<br />

Support local research. As gardeners, we are lucky to have a<br />

world class bee lab on <strong>the</strong> Saint Paul campus of <strong>the</strong> University of<br />

Minnesota, w<strong>here</strong> <strong>the</strong> goal is to “get bees back on <strong>the</strong>ir own six feet.”<br />

Run by Marla Spivak, a MacArthur fellow and professor of<br />

Entomology at <strong>the</strong> U, <strong>the</strong> bee lab runs classes, does research, works<br />

with beekeepers, and has big plans for <strong>the</strong> future. Get involved!<br />

Resources<br />

www.beelab.umn.edu—Researchers from <strong>the</strong><br />

U of M will be on hand in <strong>the</strong> Garden Fair to<br />

answer questions about bees and plants for<br />

bee habitat. See <strong>page</strong> 4 for schedule.<br />

www.greatsunflower.org<br />

www.pollinator.org<br />

www.xerces.org<br />

www.queenof<strong>the</strong>sun.com—a documentary film<br />

about bee colony collapse disorder<br />

“Pollinators are what ecologists call keystone species.<br />

You know how an arch has a keystone, it’s <strong>the</strong> one stone that<br />

keeps <strong>the</strong> two halves of <strong>the</strong> arch toge<strong>the</strong>r. If you remove <strong>the</strong><br />

keystone, <strong>the</strong> whole arch collapses.” May Berenbaum<br />

PHOTO BY JOEL GARDNER PHOTO BY PAT THOMPSON<br />

A small carpenter bee<br />

comes in for a landing.<br />

Photo by Karl Foord<br />

Seed Savers List<br />

Seed Savers Exchange will be located by <strong>the</strong><br />

central stairway within <strong>the</strong> vegetable section.<br />

They will be at <strong>the</strong> sale on Friday and Saturday only!<br />

Seeds will NOT be available during Sunday’s discount sale.<br />

SSE will be selling <strong>the</strong>se varieties for $2.50 per pack:<br />

VEGETABLE SEEDS<br />

With seeds, you can plant multiple<br />

times to get fresh crops over <strong>the</strong><br />

season. You can also do a second<br />

planting of many spring vegetables<br />

in late summer for a fall harvest.<br />

<strong>Plant</strong>ing times for direct seeding<br />

into <strong>the</strong> ground, both in spring and<br />

late summer, are shown in italic.<br />

Arugula<br />

April–early May, August–Sept.<br />

Arugula Ø<br />

Apollo<br />

Asian Greens<br />

April–early May, August–Sept.<br />

Mizuna Ø<br />

Prize Choy Ø<br />

Tatsoi Ø<br />

Beans<br />

June–July<br />

Black Valentine<br />

Bountiful<br />

Calypso Ø<br />

Cherokee Trail of Tears<br />

Climbing French<br />

Dragon’s Tongue<br />

Empress Ø<br />

Fin de Bagnol Ø<br />

Ideal Market Ø<br />

Kentucky Wonder Bush<br />

Kentucky Wonder Pole<br />

Pencil Pod Golden Wax<br />

Provider Ø<br />

Purple Podded Pole Ø<br />

Rattlesnake Snap Ø<br />

Speckled Cranberry Ø<br />

Tiger’s Eye<br />

True Red Cranberry Ø<br />

Beets<br />

Mid-April–July<br />

Bull’s Blood<br />

Burpee’s Golden Ø<br />

Chioggia<br />

Detroit Dark Red<br />

Early Blood Turnip Ø<br />

Carrots<br />

Late April–late June<br />

Danvers Ø<br />

Dragon<br />

Jaune du Doubs ◊<br />

Paris Market<br />

Scarlet Nantes<br />

St. Valery<br />

Chard<br />

Mid-April–July<br />

Five Color Silverbeet Ø<br />

Corn<br />

End of May, first 2 weeks of June<br />

Blue Jade Ø<br />

Country Gentleman Ø<br />

Golden Bantam Ø<br />

Mixed Colors Broomcorn<br />

Stowell’s Evergreen Ø<br />

Tom Thumb Popcorn Ø<br />

Two Inch Strawberry<br />

Popcorn Ø<br />

Cucumbers<br />

End of May–third week of July<br />

A & C Pickling Ø<br />

Bushy Ø<br />

Crystal Apple Ø<br />

Double Yield Ø<br />

Early Fortune Ø<br />

Edmonson Ø<br />

Holland White ◊<br />

Japanese Climbing Ø<br />

Longfellow Ø<br />

Mexican Sour Gherkin<br />

Parade Ø<br />

Parisian Pickling Ø<br />

Poona Kheera Ø<br />

Russian Pickling Ø<br />

True Lemon Ø<br />

Endive<br />

Late April–early May, August<br />

Très Fine Maraîchère Ø<br />

Kohlrabi<br />

Late April–early May, August–Sept.<br />

Purple Vienna Ø<br />

White Vienna Ø<br />

Lettuce<br />

Mid-April–early June,<br />

late August–Labor Day<br />

Amish Deer Tongue<br />

Baby Oakleaf Ø<br />

Baquieu Ø ◊<br />

Crisp Mint Ø<br />

Ella Kropf Ø ◊<br />

Forellenschluss<br />

Grandpa Admire’s Ø<br />

Red Romaine Ø<br />

Rossa di Trento<br />

Slobolt Ø<br />

SSE Lettuce Mixture<br />

Tennis Ball Ø<br />

Three Heart Ø ◊<br />

Winter Density Ø<br />

Yugoslavian Red Butterhead<br />

Lima Beans<br />

Early June–July<br />

Christmas<br />

Henderson Bush<br />

Melons<br />

Early June<br />

Minnesota Midget Ø<br />

Pride of Wisconsin<br />

Okra<br />

Mid-June–July<br />

Hill Country Red<br />

Peas<br />

Late April–early May<br />

Amish Snap<br />

Champion of England<br />

Dwarf Gray Sugar<br />

Golden Sweet Ø<br />

Green Arrow Ø<br />

Tom Thumb<br />

Pumpkins<br />

Late May–early June<br />

Amish Pie<br />

Cornfield Pumpkin<br />

Visit www.<strong>Friends</strong><strong>School</strong><strong>Plant</strong><strong>Sale</strong>.com/sse<strong>2013</strong><br />

for links to descriptions of <strong>the</strong>se heirloom varieties.<br />

Save Your Own Seeds<br />

You can save your own open-pollinated seeds from year<br />

to year. Get started by attending one of <strong>the</strong> demonstra -<br />

tions Seed Savers Exchange will be doing in <strong>the</strong> Garden<br />

Fair (see <strong>page</strong> 5 for schedule).<br />

Radishes<br />

Late April–early May, mid-<br />

August<br />

China Rose ◊<br />

Cincinnati Market<br />

Early Scarlet Globe<br />

French Breakfast Ø<br />

Plum Purple<br />

White Icicle ◊<br />

Shallot<br />

Late May, early June<br />

Zebrune ◊<br />

Soybeans<br />

Mid-May–early June<br />

Fiskeby Ø<br />

Shirofumi Ø<br />

Spinach<br />

Late April–early May, August<br />

America<br />

Bloomsdale Ø<br />

New Zealand<br />

Squash, Summer<br />

Late May, early June<br />

Black Beauty Zucchini Ø<br />

Golden Zucchini<br />

Summer Crookneck Ø<br />

Squash, Winter<br />

Late May, early June<br />

Burgess Buttercup Ø<br />

Pennsylvania Dutch<br />

Crookneck<br />

Potimarron ◊<br />

Table Queen<br />

Thelma Sanders Ø<br />

Waltham Butternut Ø<br />

Winter Luxury Ø ◊<br />

Zebrune<br />

Turnips<br />

Early April, late July–early August<br />

Purple Top<br />

White Globe<br />

Watermelons<br />

Early June<br />

Blacktail Mountain Ø<br />

Golden Midget<br />

Moon & Stars Ø<br />

FLOWER SEEDS<br />

Bachelor Buttons: Blue Boy<br />

Bee’s Friend Ω Phacelia<br />

Calendula: mixture<br />

California Poppy: mixture<br />

Cosmos Ω: Diablo; Sensation<br />

mixture; Sea Shells<br />

Globe Amaranth: mixture<br />

Hyacinth Bean: Ruby Moon<br />

Kiss-Me-Over-<strong>the</strong>-Garden-Gate<br />

Marigold: Red Marietta<br />

Morning Glory: Grandpa Ott’s<br />

Nasturtium: Black Velvet;<br />

Tip Top<br />

Sunflowers Ω: Evening Sun; Lemon<br />

Queen; Orange Sun; Ring of Fire;<br />

Taiyo; Titan; Valentine<br />

Sweet Peas: Grandiflora Mix<br />

Zinnia: Persian Carpets

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!