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Section 05<br />

Consumer and Retail // APPAREL<br />

THE CATEGORIES<br />

Apparel brands score high in differentiation<br />

The BrandZ Apparel Top 10<br />

caught up with the Global Top 100<br />

in differentiation during the past 10<br />

years. That rise led to a big increase in<br />

Brand Value – 139 percent for apparel<br />

compared to 126 percent for the Top<br />

100. Differentiation is one of the key<br />

drivers of brand success. An average<br />

brand scores 100.<br />

Over the same period, consumers<br />

showed a greater interest in value.<br />

Consumers choosing to buy on price<br />

alone declined from 13 percent to only<br />

6 percent, whereas the importance of<br />

the brand increased from 55 percent to<br />

63 percent.<br />

The Apparel Top 10 appear to have<br />

successfully persuaded consumers that<br />

they offer fair value for money, with<br />

pricing that sometimes even justifies<br />

a premium. The Fairness score of the<br />

Apparel Top 10, an indication of value,<br />

rose sharply in 2011, suggesting that<br />

brands listened to consumer spending<br />

concerns coming out of the recession<br />

and adjusted prices effectively. At the<br />

same time, the Premium measure also<br />

increased.<br />

Six of the Apparel Top 10 brands –<br />

Adidas, Nike, Ralph Lauren, Lululemon,<br />

Hugo Boss and Tommy Hilfiger – tend<br />

to have a more premium offer. These<br />

brands are high Difference, scoring 139,<br />

while the successful value brands score<br />

113 on Difference, still well above the<br />

average. Both sets increased over the<br />

period.<br />

Among the value brands, Uniqlo and<br />

H&M ranked highest in Fairness, scoring<br />

137 and 112 respectively. These brands<br />

compete on more than one dimension.<br />

They offer low price and perceived<br />

added value: for Uniqlo, clothes<br />

engineered for climate comfort; style in<br />

the case of H&M.<br />

Apparel Top 10 exceed Top 100 in Fairness and Premium<br />

The BrandZ Apparel Top 10 exceeded the Global Top 100 in both Fairness and<br />

Premium scores, indicating that apparel brands have successfully persuaded<br />

consumers that they offer fair value for money with pricing that sometimes even<br />

justifies a premium.<br />

100<br />

10-YEAR TRENDS & ANALYSIS<br />

2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015<br />

104<br />

101<br />

Top 100 Fairness<br />

Top 100 Premium<br />

Apparel Top 10 Fairness<br />

Apparel Top 10 Premium<br />

111<br />

107<br />

105<br />

103<br />

Shifting control to stores<br />

Uniqlo planned to continue its aggressive<br />

expansion in the US and Europe, where it<br />

opened a Berlin store in 2014, its first in<br />

Germany. The brand also opened its first<br />

store in Australia.<br />

Uniqlo experienced especially strong results<br />

in Mainland China, Hong Kong and Taiwan,<br />

where it operated around 374 stores and<br />

planned to open 100 annually. Sales for<br />

Greater China increased 66.5 percent for<br />

the fiscal year 2014.<br />

At the end of its fiscal year, Uniqlo operated<br />

633 international stores and planned to<br />

add about 200 in the next 12 months. It<br />

operated 852 stores in Japan. The company<br />

also announced plans to shift more<br />

management control to the stores, to better<br />

match the product mix to local tastes and<br />

drive sales per store.<br />

Uniqlo continued to differentiate with a<br />

focus on functional fashion, emphasizing<br />

fabrics with innovative technology that<br />

provide comfortable warmth or coolness.<br />

Lifestyle brands<br />

While the fast-fashion brands succeeded<br />

around style, value and rapid inventory<br />

rotation, Tommy Hilfiger, an affordable<br />

luxury brand built around an aspirational<br />

preppy lifestyle, rose 29 percent in Brand<br />

Value, the fastest riser in the BrandZ<br />

Apparel Top 10.<br />

The strength of the US dollar weakened<br />

Ralph Lauren’s international business and its<br />

share price declined. The brand’s US sales<br />

took a surprising dip in early 2015 because<br />

of aggressive discounting by competitors.<br />

Ralph Lauren implemented a restructuring<br />

plan to create a global brand management<br />

model as the company continued<br />

international growth, and it opened a flagship<br />

Polo store on Fifth Avenue.<br />

Several factors negatively affected the sales<br />

and the share price of Hugo Boss, including<br />

weakness in the luxury sector in some<br />

important European and Asian markets and a<br />

slowdown in Russian tourism.<br />

BRAND BUILDING<br />

ACTION POINTS<br />

1. Build a total brand experience that’s<br />

exciting and consistent across all touch<br />

points.<br />

Athletic performance<br />

is mixed<br />

The FIFA World Cup in Brazil presented an<br />

important opportunity for athletic apparel<br />

and footwear brands. Nike did not officially<br />

sponsor the World Cup, but instead provided<br />

kits to 10 of the teams. It also introduced<br />

new products at the Sochi Olympics and the<br />

Super Bowl.<br />

The brand also focused on its digital<br />

presence, expanding the Nike ecosystem,<br />

which includes its digital fitness-monitoring<br />

devices. Nike’s women’s business grew at a<br />

faster rate than the men’s business. A new<br />

advertising campaign called “Better for It”<br />

motivated women to exercise and improve<br />

fitness and health. Online business grew 42<br />

percent.<br />

Adidas officially sponsored the World Cup.<br />

Its profit declined sharply in 2014, however,<br />

because of difficulties in the Russian market<br />

and its US golf division. The brand planned to<br />

accelerate growth by concentrating on key<br />

world capitals, including New York, London,<br />

Paris and Shanghai. Over the next few years,<br />

Adidas planned to add 55 more US stores.<br />

Despite increased competition, the<br />

overall strength of the athletic leisurewear<br />

category helped Lululemon slowly recover<br />

from negative publicity around the recall<br />

of a line of yoga stretch pants that were<br />

immodestly sheer.<br />

2. Truly know your customer, his or her<br />

needs and behaviors, and cultivate a<br />

deep connection, showing through<br />

your actions that you value the<br />

relationship.<br />

INSIGHT<br />

Consumers seek<br />

store and online<br />

brand experience<br />

Consumers are looking for the total<br />

brand experience. On one hand,<br />

there’s the experience in the shop,<br />

where consumers want more than<br />

just the racks of clothes. They’re<br />

looking for ways to experience the<br />

brand outside the products being<br />

offered. Those experiences can<br />

include interactive screens and<br />

being inspired by how people wear<br />

clothes and many other things.<br />

The same need for experience<br />

applies to the digital world - not just<br />

plain advertising, but total brand<br />

experiences, which are of course in<br />

line with the in-store experience.<br />

Marieke van den Toorn<br />

Partner<br />

Millward Brown Vermeer<br />

Marieke.Vandentoorn@mbvermeer.com<br />

3. Offer the consumer a combination of<br />

value for money that differentiates and<br />

emphasizes more than price alone, a<br />

less compelling proposition.<br />

FUTURE VIEW<br />

Lower prices and more<br />

competition will make it<br />

more important to engage<br />

consumers with the brand<br />

in stores and online.<br />

Brands will not be able to<br />

ignore ethical supply chain<br />

practices following the<br />

Bangladesh factory disaster.<br />

Online shopping will continue<br />

to increase as a proportion of<br />

total apparel spending.<br />

The fast-fashion brands<br />

will continue aggressive<br />

global expansion with both<br />

physical and virtual stores.<br />

96<br />

2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015<br />

Source: BrandZ / Millward Brown<br />

Average brand = 100<br />

98 BrandZ Top 100 Most Valuable Global Brands 2015 99

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