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tools and spare parts), tucked away as<br />

many cred<strong>it</strong> cards as society allows people<br />

like us to have, and w<strong>it</strong>h a rousing "Hi Ho<br />

Romeo!" we were off! We were outside<br />

the c<strong>it</strong>y when I pulled out the old plugs<br />

and looked at them for the 38th time.<br />

Three were fine, but the fourth one's<br />

insulator fell to pieces in my hand.<br />

Go figure.<br />

The Spider ran well. At least all four<br />

cylinders were pulling their share of<br />

weight and <strong>it</strong> accelerated nicely and<br />

pulled well all the way to the border and<br />

through Buffalo. We stopped there for a<br />

roll of film and chicken wings. The fact<br />

that we had made <strong>it</strong> this far was worth a<br />

picture. No cooling problems, the oil<br />

pressure was up and there was no hint of<br />

melting electricals. Sure, <strong>it</strong> was blowing a<br />

b<strong>it</strong> of blue, but that, we decided was a<br />

good thing.<br />

God Himself Told Us<br />

After sunset, the ambient temperature<br />

had dropped considerably and the<br />

trackpants and sweaters came out. The<br />

decision that the roof would stay down<br />

unless God himself told us to put <strong>it</strong> up<br />

had been made weeks before. The Alfa's<br />

engine, getting more and more broken-in<br />

and breathing cooler,<br />

denser air was singing<br />

right along. This strengthened<br />

our confidence and<br />

our skepticism at the<br />

same time.<br />

I took over the driving<br />

and slid down into the<br />

seat. The engine fired<br />

w<strong>it</strong>hout hes<strong>it</strong>ation and<br />

sounded smoother than<br />

ever. A quick poke downward<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h my right foot<br />

and the tach needle<br />

climbed confidently.<br />

Now everything began<br />

to feel right.<br />

W<strong>it</strong>hout thinking<br />

about the infancy of the<br />

engine, I selected first<br />

and eased in the clutch,<br />

squeezing the accelerator<br />

to the floor. The engine<br />

pulled strongly, the boattail<br />

rear end squatted and I brought us<br />

close to redline before grabbing second.<br />

Repeating the formal<strong>it</strong>ies three more times<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h the rev-counter rising and falling to<br />

each occasion and we were in top gear<br />

speeding through the darkness. I<br />

discovered for the first time in my life that<br />

nothing sounds qu<strong>it</strong>e like an Alfa Romeo<br />

accelerating hard into the night on an<br />

empty two-laner. The twin dohc Webers<br />

gasping for air howled so loud I thought<br />

they would suck in the air cleaner, the<br />

hood and the scenery. What the hell, <strong>it</strong><br />

was dark out anyway.<br />

Notching <strong>it</strong> up into fifth, I slouched a<br />

b<strong>it</strong> in the seat and got comfortable. The<br />

next hour or so was pure magic. W<strong>it</strong>h<br />

The engine fired<br />

w<strong>it</strong>hout<br />

hes<strong>it</strong>ation and<br />

sounded<br />

Sllloothel' than<br />

ever. A quick<br />

pol{e downwal-d<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h Iny right<br />

foot and the tach<br />

needle cl<strong>it</strong>nbed<br />

confidently. Now<br />

everything began<br />

to feel right.<br />

Simon and Garfunkle songs going through<br />

my head, I felt like Dustin Hoffman w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

a full tank of gas. We finally came to rest<br />

in Bath, N.Y., and after gassing up and<br />

asking for directions, we were pointed<br />

toward the Cherry Hill campground.<br />

The morning came early, as mornings<br />

often do, and the smell of breakfast<br />

campfires permeated the nylon walls.<br />

Mer rubbing the sleepies out of my eyes,<br />

I quickly unzipped the door to make sure<br />

<strong>it</strong> was really the Alfa that we brought. It<br />

gazed right back at me looking wide<br />

awake and smiling from fender to fender.<br />

Ian was still unconscious and a couple<br />

of elbows to the ribs did nothing to alter<br />

the fact. By the time I staggered back from<br />

the showers, dizzy and down the two<br />

quarts of blood I had donated to the<br />

throngs of mosqu<strong>it</strong>oes that were using the<br />

bathrooms as convention facil<strong>it</strong>ies, Ian<br />

had already checked the Spider's v<strong>it</strong>als<br />

and packed the tent away. The Red Cross<br />

contingent spared him no mercy e<strong>it</strong>her, so<br />

I let him recover while I took on the<br />

responsibil<strong>it</strong>y of finding us nourishment.<br />

Burning Daylight<br />

Already the mercury was astonishingly<br />

high and by the time we were two hours<br />

from New York C<strong>it</strong>y, the<br />

sun was blinding. It<br />

bounced off road signs<br />

and American car bumpers-a<br />

stifling wh<strong>it</strong>e heat<br />

that burns through pinhole-sized<br />

pupils, all the<br />

while being accentuated<br />

by the buffeting hot wind.<br />

I felt like I was s<strong>it</strong>ting next<br />

to Sam McGee from<br />

Tennessee. The Spider's<br />

temperature gauge on the<br />

other hand must have<br />

been sipping a daiquiri in<br />

the shade. It read a cool<br />

170 degrees.<br />

Skepticism set in again.<br />

We considered the real<strong>it</strong>ies:<br />

It was certainly more<br />

than 100 degrees Fahrenhe<strong>it</strong><br />

out, we'd been<br />

charging along at no less<br />

than 7Smph, the engine<br />

hadn't been under 4000rpm since Ian's<br />

face turned burgundy and the car, along<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h the temperature gauge, was Italian.<br />

Immediately we lost all fa<strong>it</strong>h, spotted a<br />

roadside diner and pulled over. I propped<br />

the hood open to help cool things down<br />

and, incredibly, there was still was no sign<br />

of coolant spillage.<br />

"It's probably empty," said Ian, shaking<br />

his head as he walked toward the diner to<br />

escape premature cremation.<br />

In the restaurant, we guzzled two<br />

p<strong>it</strong>chers of ice-water before the sunspot<br />

activ<strong>it</strong>y on the insides of our eyelids died<br />

down and the menus came into focus.<br />

Looking out at the Alfa through the tinted<br />

window, <strong>it</strong> seemed to wear a great big<br />

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