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tools and spare parts), tucked away as<br />
many cred<strong>it</strong> cards as society allows people<br />
like us to have, and w<strong>it</strong>h a rousing "Hi Ho<br />
Romeo!" we were off! We were outside<br />
the c<strong>it</strong>y when I pulled out the old plugs<br />
and looked at them for the 38th time.<br />
Three were fine, but the fourth one's<br />
insulator fell to pieces in my hand.<br />
Go figure.<br />
The Spider ran well. At least all four<br />
cylinders were pulling their share of<br />
weight and <strong>it</strong> accelerated nicely and<br />
pulled well all the way to the border and<br />
through Buffalo. We stopped there for a<br />
roll of film and chicken wings. The fact<br />
that we had made <strong>it</strong> this far was worth a<br />
picture. No cooling problems, the oil<br />
pressure was up and there was no hint of<br />
melting electricals. Sure, <strong>it</strong> was blowing a<br />
b<strong>it</strong> of blue, but that, we decided was a<br />
good thing.<br />
God Himself Told Us<br />
After sunset, the ambient temperature<br />
had dropped considerably and the<br />
trackpants and sweaters came out. The<br />
decision that the roof would stay down<br />
unless God himself told us to put <strong>it</strong> up<br />
had been made weeks before. The Alfa's<br />
engine, getting more and more broken-in<br />
and breathing cooler,<br />
denser air was singing<br />
right along. This strengthened<br />
our confidence and<br />
our skepticism at the<br />
same time.<br />
I took over the driving<br />
and slid down into the<br />
seat. The engine fired<br />
w<strong>it</strong>hout hes<strong>it</strong>ation and<br />
sounded smoother than<br />
ever. A quick poke downward<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h my right foot<br />
and the tach needle<br />
climbed confidently.<br />
Now everything began<br />
to feel right.<br />
W<strong>it</strong>hout thinking<br />
about the infancy of the<br />
engine, I selected first<br />
and eased in the clutch,<br />
squeezing the accelerator<br />
to the floor. The engine<br />
pulled strongly, the boattail<br />
rear end squatted and I brought us<br />
close to redline before grabbing second.<br />
Repeating the formal<strong>it</strong>ies three more times<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h the rev-counter rising and falling to<br />
each occasion and we were in top gear<br />
speeding through the darkness. I<br />
discovered for the first time in my life that<br />
nothing sounds qu<strong>it</strong>e like an Alfa Romeo<br />
accelerating hard into the night on an<br />
empty two-laner. The twin dohc Webers<br />
gasping for air howled so loud I thought<br />
they would suck in the air cleaner, the<br />
hood and the scenery. What the hell, <strong>it</strong><br />
was dark out anyway.<br />
Notching <strong>it</strong> up into fifth, I slouched a<br />
b<strong>it</strong> in the seat and got comfortable. The<br />
next hour or so was pure magic. W<strong>it</strong>h<br />
The engine fired<br />
w<strong>it</strong>hout<br />
hes<strong>it</strong>ation and<br />
sounded<br />
Sllloothel' than<br />
ever. A quick<br />
pol{e downwal-d<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h Iny right<br />
foot and the tach<br />
needle cl<strong>it</strong>nbed<br />
confidently. Now<br />
everything began<br />
to feel right.<br />
Simon and Garfunkle songs going through<br />
my head, I felt like Dustin Hoffman w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
a full tank of gas. We finally came to rest<br />
in Bath, N.Y., and after gassing up and<br />
asking for directions, we were pointed<br />
toward the Cherry Hill campground.<br />
The morning came early, as mornings<br />
often do, and the smell of breakfast<br />
campfires permeated the nylon walls.<br />
Mer rubbing the sleepies out of my eyes,<br />
I quickly unzipped the door to make sure<br />
<strong>it</strong> was really the Alfa that we brought. It<br />
gazed right back at me looking wide<br />
awake and smiling from fender to fender.<br />
Ian was still unconscious and a couple<br />
of elbows to the ribs did nothing to alter<br />
the fact. By the time I staggered back from<br />
the showers, dizzy and down the two<br />
quarts of blood I had donated to the<br />
throngs of mosqu<strong>it</strong>oes that were using the<br />
bathrooms as convention facil<strong>it</strong>ies, Ian<br />
had already checked the Spider's v<strong>it</strong>als<br />
and packed the tent away. The Red Cross<br />
contingent spared him no mercy e<strong>it</strong>her, so<br />
I let him recover while I took on the<br />
responsibil<strong>it</strong>y of finding us nourishment.<br />
Burning Daylight<br />
Already the mercury was astonishingly<br />
high and by the time we were two hours<br />
from New York C<strong>it</strong>y, the<br />
sun was blinding. It<br />
bounced off road signs<br />
and American car bumpers-a<br />
stifling wh<strong>it</strong>e heat<br />
that burns through pinhole-sized<br />
pupils, all the<br />
while being accentuated<br />
by the buffeting hot wind.<br />
I felt like I was s<strong>it</strong>ting next<br />
to Sam McGee from<br />
Tennessee. The Spider's<br />
temperature gauge on the<br />
other hand must have<br />
been sipping a daiquiri in<br />
the shade. It read a cool<br />
170 degrees.<br />
Skepticism set in again.<br />
We considered the real<strong>it</strong>ies:<br />
It was certainly more<br />
than 100 degrees Fahrenhe<strong>it</strong><br />
out, we'd been<br />
charging along at no less<br />
than 7Smph, the engine<br />
hadn't been under 4000rpm since Ian's<br />
face turned burgundy and the car, along<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h the temperature gauge, was Italian.<br />
Immediately we lost all fa<strong>it</strong>h, spotted a<br />
roadside diner and pulled over. I propped<br />
the hood open to help cool things down<br />
and, incredibly, there was still was no sign<br />
of coolant spillage.<br />
"It's probably empty," said Ian, shaking<br />
his head as he walked toward the diner to<br />
escape premature cremation.<br />
In the restaurant, we guzzled two<br />
p<strong>it</strong>chers of ice-water before the sunspot<br />
activ<strong>it</strong>y on the insides of our eyelids died<br />
down and the menus came into focus.<br />
Looking out at the Alfa through the tinted<br />
window, <strong>it</strong> seemed to wear a great big<br />
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