Parsi reformers like Dhan Baria believe that sky burialmust be suspended and cemeteries opened to avoidhealth risks and to honor the dead. (rajesh nirgude / ap)There hadn’t been a vulture seen in years, buthawk-like black kites circled in great numbersover our heads. Every day, an average of threemore bodies arrive for them, and they feast asthe vultures before them, but their habits aremessy, focused on the soft spots, leaving toomuch behind. There were complaints of thesmell and rumors of fingers showing up on thebalconies of nearby high-rises.The Panchayat has attempted to replace theservice that the vultures provided so seamlesslyfor so long with a series of failed technologies.The ozone machine didn’t really help with thesmell. The chemicals they poured into orificesmade things slippery as the bodies melted ontothe stone. They’ve settled on solar reflectors installedatop steel scaffoldings and directed at thebodies to speed up the process of decay. (Imaginea child with a magnifying glass aimed at anant.) But the rainy season is four months longand solar devices desiccate more than destroythe bodies. The most orthodox of priests claimthat it’s a back door to cremation.Khojeste Mistree, a Parsi scholar and memberof the Panchayat, agrees. On a separate visit,I stood at the same spot with him, though hedidn’t point out the breach in the fence. Witha good girth and a trimmed gray beard, his facewas unlined, a man untroubled by self-doubt.“People say the Towers of Silence are antiquated,that we should move on to cremationand forget our tradition,” he told me, speakingin a precise Cambridge accent, though it’s beenthirty years since he studied there. “I’m totallyopposed. This powerful, vociferous minority ofreformists doesn’t know the religion.” He clarifiedthat he wasn’t a priest.“I teach the priests,” he emphasized.I found him pleasant for a puritan.Mistree has a grand plan. He imagines avulture aviary, sixty-five feet high, as big as twofootball fields, spanning the towers and thetrees without cutting a single branch. Critics,and there are many within both the Parsi andscientific communities, say an aviary would leadvultures to their deaths. Diclofenac is presentin hundreds of human painkiller formulations.It would be virtually impossible to ensure thatthe Parsis were, as the goat meat at the breedingcenter in Pinjore, diclofenac-free. But Mistree isdetermined. He even went so far as to suggestthat the Parsis were already keeping some vultures,somewhere—though as a protected species,doing so would be illegal.“Where there is a will, there is a way,” Mistreestated. “Really, we are more concerned thananybody that the vultures survive. Our interestis in the very preservation of our religious tradi-Meera Subramanian 45
tion. We’re more invested than those armchairconservationists.”Even with his dismissal of BNHS’s breedingwork, his acknowledgment of how irreplaceablethe vultures are echoed what Prakash had toldme in Pinjore. “<strong>Vultures</strong> play such a beautiful,natural role in our death ritual,” said Mistree.“To replace them is a unique challenge.”While the Panchayat struggles with the burdensomebodies in theory, the Parsi undertakersare presented with a more tangible mess. Forgenerations, their job was to carry an intact bodyup and lay it on the tower roof, a sloped circletilting in toward a central well from which threeconcentric rings radiate out like ripples. Menare on the outside, women in the middle, andchildren on the inside, each ring smaller thanthe last. The vultures would set to their task,and within days, the nasarsarlas could push thebones into the ossuary at the center.The nasarsarlas are the poorest of Parsis, and Iimagine they might miss the vultures more thananyone else on the subcontinent. Farmers have adead cow every now and again that needs to be attendedto, and the dogs at the carcass dump haveto be treated with caution, but every single daythe nasarsarlas have to face a new batch of bodieswhen the old ones have not yet disappeared.Like Baria, others are ready to allow burialor cremation into the Parsi parameters of worship,eager to find their own way to adapt to thevultures’ absence. Some Parsis have suggestedthey move from the ancient to the cutting-edgeof green technology, using gasification, whichinvolves high heat, but not in direct contact withthe body, or promession, a technique catchingon in Sweden that uses liquid nitrogen to deepfreeze a body before vibrating it into a fine dust.One prominent bird breeder suggested they tryinsects, but all the recommendations have been46 VQR | spring 2011